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THE  GUAYAPE,  BELOW  JUTECALPA. 


EXPLORATIONS 


AND  ADVENTURES  IN 

HONDURAS, 

COMPRISING 

SKETCHES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  THE  GOLD  REGIONS  OF  OLANCHO, 


AND  A REVIEW  OF  THE  HISTORY  AND  GENERAX  RESOURCES  OF 

Central  America. 


WITH  ORIGINAL  MAPS,  AND  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


BY  WILLIAM  V.  WELLS. 


NEW  YORK: 

HARPER  & BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS, 


FRANKLIN  SQUARE. 

1857. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  one  thousand  eight  hundred 
and  fifty-seven,  by 

HARPER  & BROTHERS, 


in  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Southern  District  of  New  York. 


TO 

CORNELIUS  K.  GARRISON,  ESQ., 


TO  WHOSE  COMMERCIAL  ENTERPRISE  IS  DUE  A LARGE  SHARE  OF  THE 
PRESENT  FACILITIES  FOR  OCEAN  NAVIGATION  BETWEEN 
THE  ATLANTIC  AND  PACIFIC  STATES, 

Wntne  is  respecifnllg  Jfascribefo. 


PREFACE. 


The  journey  of  which  the  following  pages  form  a diary, 
afterward  somewhat  elaborated  by  facts  collected  in  Honduras, 
was  conceived  in  California  in  1853,  and  based  upon  reliable 
information,  which  since  1851  had  been  placed  at  my  disposal, 
regarding  the  gold  regions  of  Central  America.  Its  principal 
object  was  a reconnoissance  of  that  part  of  the  republic  of  Hon- 
duras known  as  Olancho,  which  in  1850  had  been  visited  by  a 
gentleman  now  residing  in  New  York,  and  by  him,  on  his  re- 
turn, represented  to  be  “ another  California,”  equaling  the  new 
El  Dorado  in  auriferous  deposits,  and  excelling  it  in  position 
and  accessibility. 

The  advantages  of  this  country  had  for  some  time  been  the 
theme  of  discussion.  From  the  limited  information  that  could 
be  collected  in  San  Francisco,  and  the  papers  in  my  possession, 
it  appeared  that  on  the  head-waters  of  the  streams  taking  their 
vise  in  the  mountains  of  Honduras  and  falling  into  the  Caribbean 
Sea — particularly  the  Guayape  or  Patook — there  were  deposits 
of  gold  (placers)  in  every  way  similar  to  those  of  California; 
that  these  were  accessible  by  a navigable  river,  the  mouth  of 
which  was  within  three  days  steaming  of  New  Orleans  and 
seven  of  New  York;  that  the  climate  of  this  region,  although 
in  the  tropics,  was  equable  and  salubrious;  that  the  government 
had  manifested  a favorable  disposition  toward  foreign  enter- 
prises ; and  that,  in  addition  to  its  mineral  wealth,  the  country 
teemed  with  valuable  woods  and  drugs,  and  produced  spontane- 
ously all  the  tropical  staples. 

At  that  time  gold  had  been  discovered  at  several  unexpected 
points  throughout  the  world.  In  Australia,  Oregon,  Peru,  and 
Sonora,  the  adventurous  miner,  nerved  to  activity  by  the  exam- 
ple of  California,  had  struck  the  golden  deposits,  and  in  the  two 


PREFACE. 


xii 

first  instances  with  a success  rivaling  California  itself.  The 
era  of  gold  that  had  apparently  dawned  upon  the  world,  swell- 
ing the  amount  produced  from  $50,000,000  to  the  startling  sum 
of  $200,000,000  annually,  and  coming  from  regions  until  then 
unknown  to  merchants  and  geographers,  led  to  the  reflection 
that  similar  deposits  might  exist  in  Honduras,  which  in  past 
centuries  had  been  known  as  gold-bearing,  and  was  now  the 
field  of  Indian  labors,  conducted  with  the  rude  implements  of  a 
semi-civilized  race. 

Neither  books  nor  maps  relating  to  Honduras  could  at  that 
time  be  found  in  California.  The  able  work  of  Mr.  E.  G.  Squier 
on  Nicaragua,  so  admired  for  its  delightful  narrative  style  and 
valuable  ethnological  facts,  had  been  with  difficulty  obtained ; 
but  that  author  had  not  then  made  his  second  visit  to  Central 
America,  and  consequently  the  valuable  information  he  has  since 
given  to  the  world  on  Honduras  had  not  been  published.  The 
works  and  maps  of  English  and  other  foreign  writers  on  Central 
America  had  never  reached  the  Pacific  coast — even  their  names 
were  unknown.  But,  had  these  been  accessible,  they  would 
have  proved  useless  as  guides,  owing  to  their  authors’  ignorance 
of  the  country  1 proposed  to  visit,  particularly  of  Eastern  Hon- 
duras and  the  extensive  section  drained  by  the  Guayape.  This 
river,  in  some  maps,  even  as  late  as  1855,  is  made  a tributary 
of  the  B.oman  or  Aguan,  discharging  into  the  Caribbean  Sea 
near  Truxillo,  when  it  is  actually  the  Patook  itself,  but  bearing 
in  the  interior  a distinct  name.  The  topography  of  the  country 
seems  to  have  been  thrown  in  hap-hazard  to  fill  up  unsightly 
blanks  in  maps  of  which  only  the  coast-lines,  in  some  instances, 
were  correct,  a circumstance  due  to  the  accurate  Admiralty  sur- 
veys. In  fact,  as  I afterward  ascertained,  Honduras  was  as 
much  a terra  incognita  as  the  interior  of  Japan. 

The  accompanying  map  of  Eastern  Honduras  is  the  result  of 
no  little  labor,  and,  though  not  embracing  a very  extended  space 
of  territory,  corrects  the  absurd  blunders  appearing  in  all  pre- 
ceding ones  of  Olancho.  The  distances  between  the  principal 
towns  and  haciendas  and  their  location  I generally  ascertained 
from  personal  observation,  assisted  by  the  information  readily 
accorded  me  by  the  most  intelligent  residents.  No  map  from 
actual  survey,  to  my  knowledge,  has  ever  been  made  of  this  se- 


PREFACE. 


^iii 

eluded  country,  except  a rude  and  incorrect  one,  sent,  in  1851, 
to  Senor  Rugame,  of  Nacaome,  by  a native  of  Truxillo,  who  had 
formed  a rough  tracing  of  Olancho  for  the  purpose  of  locating 
certain  government  grants  of  land  on  which  to  prosecute  mahog- 
any-cutting. The  few  interior  towns  introduced  toward  the  line 
of  the  proposed  inter-oceanic  rail-road  are  according  to  the  map 
of  Mr.  E.  G.  Squier.  Should  Olancho  hereafter  become  the  field 
of  extended  scientific  surveys,  there  will  be  found,  I think,  but 
few  errors  in  the  present  map,  and  such  as  an  unaided  and  in- 
experienced traveler  could  scarcely  avoid  committing. 

On  leaving  California,  I had  no  other  view  than  to  report  to  a 
number  of  gentlemen  in  San  Francisco,  who  had  become  inter- 
ested in  my  proposed  enterprise  of  procuring  from  the  govern- 
ment of  Honduras  the  right  to  work  gold  placers,  and  to  estab- 
lish commercial  stations  for  the  export  of  hides,  timber,  dye- 
woods,  and  other  valuables,  by  the  River  Guayape  or  Patook, 
from  the  department  of  Olancho.  But,  upon  considering  how 
little  was  then  known  of  Honduras,  I determined,  after  my  ar- 
rival, in  addition  to  the  duties  I had  specified  for  myself,  to  de- 
vote some  part  of  every  day  to  a diary  or  journal  of  passing- 
events,  embracing  the  peculiarities  ot  character  and  customs, 
and  the  general  occurrences  of  travel  among  a primitive  and  se- 
cluded people. 

With  this  view,  during  nearly  a year’s  travel,  extending  over 
a thousand  miles,  mostly  on  mule-back,  and  visiting  in  that  time 
thirty-eight  Central  American  towns  and  settlements,  I collected 
every  thing  that  seemed  likely  to  shed  any  light  upon  the  his- 
tory and  natural  resources  of  the  country.  Coins,  portraits,  bo- 
tanical, mineralogical,  and  ornithological  specimens ; pamphlets 
of  every  description,  thrown  off  during  fifty  years  by  the  local 
presses ; old  books,  gacetas , diarios,  and  manuscripts,  and  a se- 
ries of  drawings  executed  by  Senor  Laso,  of  Tegucigalpa,  who 
accompanied  me  into  Olancho,  enabled  me,  on  my  return,  to  throw 
together  facts  enough  to  warrant  their  embodiment  in  the  form 
of  a printed  volume.  Some  of  my  most  interesting  portraits, 
maps,  and  views  of  scenery,  I have  unfortunately  mislaid,  and 
these  can  not  be  accurately  replaced. 

The  historical  and  political  part,  p.  449-522,  embodies  some 
facts  hitherto  unpublished,  and  is  presented  simply  as  a brief 


XIV 


PREFACE. 


sketch  of  this  interesting  portion  of  the  continent  from  the  dis- 
covery to  the  present  day,  without  aspiring  to  the  dignity  of  a 
history.  The  Spanish  historians  have  been  consulted  in  chap- 
ter xxiii.,  as  well  as  several  more  modem  writers,  in  relation 
to  the  Spanish  colonial  government.  As  has  been  observed  by 
an  English  author,  “ So  little  of  the  internal  history  of  Hondu- 
ras has  been  handed  down  to  us  through  the  dark  ages  of  the 
Spanish  dominion,  that  the  few  facts  we  can  glean  by  the  glim- 
mering and  suspicious  light  which  the  corsairs  have  afforded 
us  serve  rather  as  milestones  of  their  existence  than  as  details 
of  events  connected  with  their  fate.” 

The  so-called  mystery  enveloping  the  kingdom  of  Guatemala 
after  the  establishment  of  the  Spanish  colonial  system,  extend- 
ing uninterruptedly  through  the  16th,  17th,  and  18th  centuries, 
and  into  the  19th,  has  been  partially  dissipated  by  the  historian 
of  the  country,  Juarros,  from  whom  I have  made  occasional  ex- 
tracts. This  work,  originally  published  in  Guatemala  in  1811, 
in  nine  volumes,  and  subsequently  abridged  by  its  author,  is 
but  little  known  in  the  United  States,  where  it  seems  to  be  con- 
fined to  the  libraries  of  Spanish  scholars.  Probably  less  is 
known  of  the  early  history  of  Guatemala  than  of  any  other 
Spanish  American  country.  The  investing  of  that  strange  and 
wondrous  overrunning  of  a nation  by  Alvarado  and  a handful 
of  mailed  followers  with  the  graces  of  an  Irving  or  Prescott  has 
yet  to  be  accomplished.  The  field,  immense  as  it  is,  and  open- 
ing, through  the  dusty  pages  of  the  old  Spanish  authors  tales 
of  chivalric  deeds  long  forgotten,  is  perhaps  the  most  inviting 
left  to  the  modern  historian. 

The  groundwork  of  the  events  detailed  in  chapters  xxiv.-v. 
I have  obtained  from  the  brief  historical  sketch  by  Mr.  R.  G. 
Dunlop,  in  his  “ Travels  in  Central  America,”  where  he  pre- 
sents a political  resume  extending  from  1821  to  1847.  The 
interesting  chapters  by  Mr.  E.  G.  Squier,  apparently  drawn 
from  the  same  source,  and  Marure  and  Montufar,  present  these 
facts  in  a more  significant  and  systematic  form.  The  principal 
historical  facts,  however,  I obtained  in  Honduras  from  manu- 
scripts and  official  papers,  most  of  which  are  still  in  my  posses- 
sion, and  the  verbal  narrations  of  persons  taking  prominent 
parts  in  the  revolutions.  The  historical  sketch  in  “ The  Gos- 


PREFACE. 


XV 


pel  in  Central  America”  has  also  been  consulted.  This,  as  its 
author,  Mr.  Crowe,  states,  is  based  upon  Mr.  Dunlop’s  chapters 
on  that  subject. 

There  has  been  devoted,  perhaps,  unmerited  space  to  the 
events  connected  with  the  history  and  death  of  Morazan. 
These  pages,  however,  are  but  a small  portion  of  the  manu- 
scripts placed  in  my  hands  by  his  son-in-law,  Don  Estevan 
Travieso,  of  Tegucigalpa ; and  it  is  owing  to  my  promise  at 
that  time  to  publish  a brief  summary  of  their  contents  that  I 
was  first  induced  to  prepare  the  political  sketch. 

The  narrative  of  adventures,  as  I have  observed,  is  simply  a 
transcript  of  my  diary,  which  was  kept  without  a day’s  inter- 
mission. This,  in  the  solitudes  through  which  the  traveler  must 
pass,  served  rather  as  an  agreeable  occupation  than  a task.  Only 
desultory  selections  could  be  made  from  it  in  forming  the  present 
volume.  But  few  pages  have  been  devoted  to  Nicaragua,  as  a 
country  more  familiar  to  the  general  reader,  and  Olancho  (the 
object  of  my  expedition)  has  been  reached  as  quickly  as  possi- 
ble. In  speaking  of  this  part  of  my  journey,  I can  only  repeat 
what  has  already  been  said  in  the  articles  arranged  from  my 
notes  and  recently  published  in  Harper’s  Magazine.  Imagine 
the  vegetable  and  mineral  wealth  of  New  England  and  Virginia 
intensified  tenfold ; the  same  genera  of  plants  and  trees,  Amer- 
ican in  tint  and  physiognomy ; our  own  northern  June  greens 
and  September  browns  alternating  with  the  same  familiar  ever- 
green tints,  but  firmer,  richer,  and  more  varied  and  expanded  in 
every  way.  It  is  the  New  World  at  its  best — its  summit  of 
beauty  and  utility.  The  aphorism  of  Lord  Bacon,  that  knowl- 
edge is  power,  and  by  converse,  that  ignorance  is  weakness,  ex- 
emplifies itself  in  the  ignorance  of  the  American  people  regard- 
ing the  real  character  of  the  interior  of  tropical  America. 
Since  my  return,  I have  frequently  noticed  summer  scenery  in 
Massachusetts,  particularly  between  Brighton  and  Cambridge, 
of  which  I remembered  Olancho  as  the  glowing  counterpart,  but 
far  excelling  the  northern  picture  in  softness  and  delicacy  of 
outline. 

In  relation  to  this,  one  feels  a hesitation  in  describing  scenes 
of  such  rare  beauty,  and  is  tempted  not  so  much  to  give  his 
picture  the  couleuv  de  rose  as  to  bare  it  of  its  legitimate  beauty, 


XVI 


PREFACE. 


lest  the  reader  smile,  incredulous  of  what  goes  so  far  beyond 
the  experience  of  ordinary  life.  As  the  multitude  take  the  ex- 
pression of  something  they  have  never  felt  for  an  absurdity,  so 
the  description  of  what  they  have  never  seen  appears  ridiculous 
and  overdrawn,  especially  if  it  should  be  at  all  calculated  to 
“ stroke  the  prejudices  the  wrong  way.” 

The  intimacy  which  steam  navigation  has  established  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Spanish  America,  and  the  increas- 
ing interest  taken  in  those  countries,  which  until  recently  have 
been  comparatively  excluded  from  the  world,  point  out  the 
American  tropics  as  destined,  at  no  distant  time,  to  become  a 
prominent  field  of  enterprise.  Until  lately,  the  constantly-re- 
produced quotations  from  gazetteers  and  encyclopaedias  have 
been  the  main  sources  of  information  regarding  Honduras — a 
state,  in  all  probability,  to  become  a highway  of  nations  across 
the  continent  and  the  source  of  great  mineral  wealth.  As  yet, 
the  country  sits  enthroned  in  silence  and  solitude,  apparently 
only  to  be  broken  by  the  advance  of  foreign  civilization  and  in- 
dustry. 

New  York,  November  5, 1856. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Objects  of  the  Journey  to  Olancho. — Departure  from  California. — San  Juan  del 
Sur. — New  York  Passengers. — The  Road  to  Virgin  Bay. — Scenery.— Climate. 
— Ometepe. — Storm  on  Lake  Nicaragua. — New  Acquaintances.— The  War. — 
Departure  for  Rivas. — Lake  Nicaragua. — Rio  Lejas. — Crossing  a Quick-sand. 


— Night  in  the  Woods.  — A tropical  Thunder-storm.  — Rivas.  — A moonlight 
Ramble. — “ Quien  vive  ?” Page  25 

CHAPTER  II. 

Rivas. — Evidence  of  an  older  City. — Department  Meridional. — Agriculture. — 


Country  Houses. — Productions. — Dwelling-houses. — Hacienda  of  Santa  Ursu- 
la.— Cacao  Planting. — Scenery. — Boa  Constrictor. — An  Alarm. — Jose  Ber- 
mudas.— Women. — Piety. — Bust  of  Washington. — Earthquakes. — Difficulties 
of  Departure. — The  Start.- — Obraje. — Oracion. — Tropical  Scenery. — Las  Can- 
delleras. — Right  of  Search. — The  Camp. — Shooting  Deer. — Valley  of  Nau- 
dyme.— Ochomogo. — Startling  News. — The  Retreat.— Hacienda  de  San  Fran- 
cisco. — Las  Tortilleras. — A Night’s  March. — Rivas  again 39 

CHAPTER  HI. 

A Visit  to  the  Commandante  Militar. — Good-by  to  Rivas. — San  Juan  del  Sur 
again. — The  “ Tres  Amigos.” — At  Sea  on  the  Coast  of  Nicaragua. — Fellow- 
passengers. — Morning. — Port  of  Realejo. — The  Town. — Convent  of  San  Fran- 
cisco.— Hidden  Treasures. — Ride  to  Chinan dega. — Arrival. — Reception  at 
house  of  Senor  Montealegre. — Novel  method  of  Taxation. — Thunder-storm. — 
A Morning  Bath. — Foreign  Prejudices. — A Nicaraguan  Elysium 58 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Chinandega. — Churches. — Dwellings. — Female  Beauty. — Dress. — Smoking  Ci- 
garros. — Religion. — Ceremonies. — Amusements. — Evening  Paseo. — Night. — 
The  Tienda. — Trade. — Education. — Start  for  Leon.— The  Road. — Chichigal- 
pa. — Tiste. — Mr.  Manning. — Posultega. — La  Posada. — A Nicaraguan  Belle. 
— Novel  method  of  Begging. — El  Aguacero. — Hacienda  de  Paciente. — Drunk- 
en Soldiers. — Las  Tortilleras. — Rio  Quisalhuague. — Approach  to  Leon. — 
Bells. — Religious  Ceremony. — Dr.  Livingston.— Independent  Evening 72 

CHAPTER  V. 

Independent  Day. — Leon. — Revolution  of  1854. — A Texan’s  method  of  keeping 
his  Men.- — Leon  and  Granada  a century  and  a half  ago. — The  Cathedral. — 
Churches. — A Visit  to  President  Castellon. — Appearance  of  Government  Of- 
ficers.— Ex-President  Ramierez. — “ Chico  Dias.” — Society.- — La  Casa  del  Go- 
biemo.  — A Proposition. — Patriotism.  — Saddles. — Rain  in  Nicaragua. — De- 


CONTENTS. 


xviii 

parture  from  Leon. — A Morning  Gallop. — Superb  Scenery. — Chinandega.— 
Tiste.— Eruit.  — More  Assessments. — An  Alarm.  — Cacherula. — Nicaraguan 
Women. — Preparations  for  Departure. — Separation  of  the  Party. — Departure. 
— El  Viejo. — Shooting  a Monkey. — Zempisque.— The  “Horrors.” — A Bongo 
del  Golfo. — The  Patron. — Embarkation. — Estero  Beal.  — Scenery. — “Com- 
fort.”— La  Playa  Grande. — An  Adventure. — Bay  of  Fonseca Page  90 

CHAPTEK  VI. 

Bay  of  Fonseca. — Bongo  Sailing. — Agua  Dulce. — Volcano  of  Conchagua. — The 
Eruption  of  1835. — Present  Appearance. — A Chnbasco.— Night  in  the  Bay. — 
Morning. — Tigre  Island. — Port  Amapala. — Commercial  Advantages. — Decep- 
tion.— “ La  Calentura.” — Future  Prospects  of  the  Island. — Honduras  Inter- 
oceanic  Kail-road. — Game. — Hunting  Excursion. — Cerro. — The  Buccaneers. 
— British  Aggressions. — A Deer. — Playa  Bravo. — Turtle  Eggs. — The  Urraca. 
— J uacamalla.  — Sensonte. — Productions . — The  Saw-mill . — President  Caba- 
nas.— Climate.— Trade  of  Amapala 118 

CHAPTER  VH. 

A Tiger-hunt  on  Sacate  Grande. — Esposescion. — Oysters.— Fish. — Alligators. — 
A Swimming  Escape. — Life  in  Amapala. — Arrival  of  Don  Carlos  and  Fami- 
ly.— Grand  Festivities. — Preparations  for  Departure. — “ Hurrying  up”  a Bon- 
go-man.— Another  Night  in  the  Bay.  — La  Brea. — Nocturnal  Visitors. — A 
Night  Ramble. — Resolutions  for  the  future. — The  Road  to  Nacaome. — Agua 
Caliente. — Iguanas. — Nacaome.— La  Senora  Caret. — Visiting. — A Review. — 


Climate. — An  old  Speculator. — Honduras  Coal-mines. — Pastimes.  — New 
method  of  expelling  Dogs. — Demand  for  Medical  Services. — A foreign  “ Med- 
ico.”— A Serenade 139 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Crossing  the  Moromulca  and  Nacaome. — Sierra  Traveling  in  Central  America. 
—Advice  to  Travelers. — Mules. — Saddles.  — Hiring  Servants. — Pleasures  of 
the  Journey. — Bathing  Places. — “Cubiertos.” — How  to  please  Don  Fulano. 
— The  Plain  of  Nacaome. — A Cascade. — A Look  back. — Pespire. — An  oblig- 
ing Alcalde. — A Bevy  of  Beauties. — Oracion. — “No  hay  para  vender  !” — Swim- 
ming Match  with  the  Belles  of  Pespire. — “ Adios  /” — Natural  Productions.— 
Some  of  the  wild  Birds 155 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Note-taking. — Sugar-loaf  Mountain. — Cinnabar. — Foliage. — Mountain  Scenery. 
— Mansanita. — A dizzy  Precipice. — La  Venta. — The  Alcalde. — “El  Ministro 
Americano!”  — Famine  among  the  Villagers.  — Padre  Ramierez’s  Ideas  of 
Protestantism.— How  to  get  a Dinner. — Plantains.— View  from  the  Cordille- 
ras.— Savanna  Grande. — Padre  Domingo. — Hacienda  de  Trinidad.— Wedding 
in  the  Mountains.— An  Adventure.— Meeting  a Bridal  Party. — Lost  in  the 
Sierra.— A midnight  Storm.— Nueva  Arcadia.— Pine  Forests.— Cerro  de  Ule. 

Another  Adventure. — Fording  el  Rio  Grande. — -Ahorcadores. — Approach  to 
Tegucigalpa. — The  City. — First  Impressions 1C5 

CHAPTER  X. 

Interview  with  President  Cabanas. — Personal  Appearance. — Opinion  of  Olan- 
cho. — Past  and  Present  of  Tegucigalpa.  — Churches.-  “La  Paroquia.” — A 


CONTENTS. 


xix 


Serenade. — Sunday  Scenes. — The  Plaza  Market. — Morning. — Bill  of  Pare. — 
Liquors. — Chocolate. — Bread. — Potatoes.  — Manners  at  Table.  — Servants. — 
Style  of  Building. — Courtesies  of  Visiting. — Flowers  and  Flower  Gardens. — 
Birds.  — Amalgamation.- — Jealousies  of  the  Blacks. — The  Liberal  Party. — 
Health  of  Natives. — Couriers. — Amusements. — Dullness  of  the  City.. Page  182 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Traveling  Preparations. — Mounted  Caballeros. — The  Bridge. — Scenes  on  the 
River. — Public  Manners. — Gambling. — Begging.  — Tailoring.  — Cabanas  on 
Horseback. — A Visit  to  the  Cuartel. — Academia  Literaria  de  Tegucigalpa. — 
An  Examination. — A Ball  in  High  Life. — Baptism. — Visit  to  the  Mint. — A 
Honduras  Guerrilla. — Fishing  in  the  Rio  Grande. — Meeting  an  American. — 
House  Architecture. — Furniture. — Women  of  Honduras. — Passing  Compli- 
ments.— Public  Amusements. — Cock-fighting 200 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Tardy  Officials. — A Visit  to  a Hacienda  de  Cana. — Flour-mill.— Buildings. — 
Distillery.  — Sugar-mill. — Honduras  Cane. — Fruit. — Cassava. — Yuca. — Mak- 
ing Starch.— Sweet  Potato. — Chili  Peppers. — Contrayerba.- — Productions  of 
the  Department. — A Dinner  at  El  Sitio. — El  Comojen. — El  Diario  de  Marina. 
— An  Evening  Scene. — Las  Tienderas.— Shops. — Trade.— Fashions. — Dresses. 
— Ladies  of  Honduras. — Female  Beauty. — Equestrianism. — Lack  of  Educa- 
tion.— Children’s  Dresses. — Political  Matters. — Jose  Francisco  Barrundia. — 
The  Death  Penalty. — Security  in  Traveling 217 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  great  Eruption  of  Consiguina. — Phenomena  in  the  interior  of  Honduras. — 
Central  American  Volcanoes. — Eruption  of  “San  Miguel.” — “Minerales  de 
Plata.” — Preparations  for  Olancho. — The  Guayape  Gold  Region:  its  Access- 
ibility; Obscurity.  — Fabulous  Accounts.  — Favorable  Results  with  the  Gov- 
ernment.— Ho ! for  the  Guayape. — Leaving  Town. — My  Mule-train. — Catch- 
ing Soldiers: — Rio  Abajo. — Dr.  Don  Guillermo  again. — Cofradilla. — The  Road 
to  Talanga. — A Feast  in  Talanga. — St.  James  intoxicated. — Las  Cuevas. — 
An  Allspice-tree 230 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Night  in  the  Sierra  . — A Norther  in  the  Vindel  Mountains. — Perils  of  the  Pass. — 
Guaymaca. — A Midnight  Reception. — “Tired  Nature’s  Sweet  Restorer.” — 
Preparing  for  the  “Fnncion.” — Hunting  for  a Breakfast. — Squalid  Misery.— 
A Mountain  Scene. — Volcan  de  Guaymaca. — Salto. — El  Rio  Rodondo. — A 
Source  of  the  Guayape. — Inaugural  Ceremonies. — Campamento. — Mary  of  the 
Holy  Cross. — Midnight  Musings.— An  Earthquake. — Appearance  of  the  Cam- 
pamento Range. — Cold  Weather. — Glowing  Accounts  by  “las  Lavaderas.” — 
Pursuit  of  Knowledge  under  Difficulties.— Gold  Washing  in  the  Rio  de  Con- 
cordia.— Visions. — Rio  Guayapita. — Rio  Almendarez. — El  Valle  de  Lepa- 
guare. — Cattle. — Scenery  of  the  Valley 251 

CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Sensitive  Plant.— Ferns. — Fleur  de  Lis. — Bay-trees. — Rio  Almendarez. — 
La  Lima. — Rio  Guayape. — Hacienda  de  San  Juan. — Valley  of  Lepaguare. — 
An  Olancho  Cattle  Estate.— Lepaguare.- — General  Zelaya. — Our  Reception. — 


XX 


CONTENTS. 


An  Illumination. — Conversations. — Political  Condition  of  Olancho. — Topog- 
raphy of  the  Department. — Map-making. — Equestrian  Excursions. — The  Cli- 
mate.— Popular  Bugbears. — A Landscape. — Route  to  the  Guayape. — Aspect 
of  the  Country. — Valley  of  the  Guayape. — “El  Murcielego.” — “Las  Lavade- 
ras.” — Gold  Washing. — Old  Machinery. — Native  Geography. — “ LaMaquina.” 
— Making  a Gold-rocker. — The  first  Cradle  in  Olancho. — Rich  Diggings. — 
Great  Excitement  among  the  Natives. — Evidences  of  old  Mines  and  Aborig- 
inal Workings. — The  Buccaneers. — A Gallop  to  Barroza. — The  five  Brothers 
Zelaya. — Writing  a History Page  268 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

A Ride  in  the  Valley  of  Lepaguare. — A “bueno  Jinete”  of  Olancho. — The  Va- 
nilla Vine : how  it  grows. — Susceptible  of  Cultivation. — The  Vanilla  Trade. — 
Productions  of  Olancho.— Wild  Berries. — Another  Excursion. — Hacienda  de 
Galeras. — Wild  Horses. — Mounted  Vaqueros. — The  Road  to  El  Rio  Moran. — 
Ealls  of  the  Moran. — -Deer  and  Antelope. — The  Temperature. — Coast  Eevers. 
— Ho ! for  Jutecalpa.- — Galeras  again. — A Birth-day  Dinner. — Mammoth  Ta- 
ble-top..— Sheep  and  Wolves.. — The  Vale  of  Paradise. — Dissolving  Views. — 
— Golden  Rhapsodies. — A Bath  with  the  Mocking-birds. — Leaving  Galeras. — 
Kindness  of  the  Zelayas. — The  Start  for  Jutecalpa 291 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Gold  Washings  on  the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa. — The  Road. — Lignum  Vitse-trees. — 
Monte  de  Aguacate. — Dry  Gulches. — Mamaisaca. — More  Lavaderas. — Buying 
Gold  Dust. — Monte  Eucaitado. — The  Campanilla. — Scenery  on  the  Road. — 
Feathered  Horticulturists.  — Jutecalpa.  — View  from  the  Mountain. — First 
Impressions. — The  Church. — Introductions. — Don  Francisco  Garay. — One  of 
the  Hidalgos  of  Olancho. — The  Padres  Cubas  and  Buenaventura. — Liberal 
Offers. — Map-making. — The  Climate. — Jutecalpa  in  the  Olden  Time. — Don 
Opolonio  Ocampo. — An  Adventure  with  the  Warees. — More  Gold-washing. — 
The  Liquid  Amber-tree. — Preparations  for  the  Funcion. — Applicants  for  Pock- 
et-money.— An  Olancho  Patriarch. — The  “ Plaza  de  Toros.” 306 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

The  Streets. — A Visit  to  the  Church.— Scene  in  the  Plaza. — Feather  Rohes. — 
Population  of  Jutecalpa. — Merry  Spectacle. — The  Bolero  and  Fandango. — 
Olancho  Poetry. — A Feu  de  Joie. — Dinner  with  the  Padre. — Arrival  of  Vis- 
itors.— Orange  Marmalade. — Tamarind  Ambrosia. — First  Day  of  the  Funcion. 

• — How  the  Girls  and  Gallants  ride. — Corraling  the  Bulls. — A crazy  Race.— 
Church  Ceremonies. — Processions. — Bull-fighting. — Riding  a horned  Steed. — 
A golden  C/uspa. — Pure  Air. — Gold  and  Silver  Bells. — A social  Party. — 1 ‘ Poco 
a poco.” — Dona  Ysabel. — Buying  Gold  Dust, — The  Valley  of  Concepcion. — 
More  “Rainbow  Scenery.” — Racing  with  a Priest.  — Site  for  an  American 
Town 324 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Precious  Woods  of  Olancho. — The  “ Cortes.” — El  Retiro. — A Gold  Mill. — An 
Olancho  Machinist. — Monte  Rosa. — Boxwood. — Valley  of  the  Guayape. — San 
Francisco. — Rio  Jalan.  — A Forest  Scene. — The  Mahogany  Trade.  — Corte 
Sara. — Preparing  for  the  Cutting. — Las  Tortilleras.— Location  of  the  Cortes. 
— Roads. — Cutting. — Sawing. — Dragging. — Rafting. — Pipantes.  — Navigating 


CONTENTS. 


xxi 


the  Patook. — Rio  Jalan. — Its  Gold  Placers.— Americans  in  Olancho. — The 
Guayape  Gold  Region. — Red  Plumiria. — Wild  Silk. — AraTia  de  Seda. — Route 
along  the  Jalan. — Quebracha. — A Fandango. — Lake  of  Quebracha. — Don  Ga- 
briel,  Hard  Fare. — Baked  Armadillo. — A Golden  Legend. — Hunting. — Tou- 
can.  Tapir. — Blue  -winged  Teal. — Wild  Turkey. — Birds  of  Olancho. — Tapis- 

cuinte. — Familiar  Animals Page  341 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Fishing  at  Quebracha. — Plants  and  Flowers. — Cayamuela. — Cinnamon-tree. — 
Lobelia. — Sassafras. — Wild  Indigo. — Sarsaparilla. — Manner  of  Collecting. — 
Flaxseed.— Plans  for  the  Future. — A Trip  to  Palo  Verde. — Silver  and  Copper 
Mines. — Marble.  — Loadstone. — Cinnabar.  — Preparations  for  Catacamas. — 
Mountains  of  Jutequile. — Solitude. — A Trout  Stream. — India-rubber-tree. — 
Trade. — The  Jippa. — Ornithological  Music. — Clarionet-bird. — Telica. — Con- 
ception Flower. — San  Roque. — Mules  and  Horses. — Breaking  a Colt. — Palms. 
— Vino  de  Coyol. — Hacienda  of  Herradura. — Gold  Legends. — Gold  Net-sink- 
ers and  Horseshoes.  — A curious  Will. — “The  good  old  Colony  Times.” — 
Olancho  Viejo. — Separation  of  the  Party.— FI  Boqueron 362 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

The  Legend  of  Olancho  Viejo. — La.  Corona  de  Cuero. — A Golden  Statue. — De- 
struction of  the  Town. — Desolation. — Appearance  of  the  Ruins. — Hacienda  of 
Penuare. — Chickilaca. — Bees.- — Honey. — El  Real. — Padre  Morillo. — Skeleton 
Cattle. — An  Olanchano  at  Home. — A Touch  of  the  Calentura. — La  Higadera. — 
English  Enterprises. — A Marriage  Story. — Alligators. — The  Road  to  Cataca- 
mas. — Scene  at  Sunrise. — Adventure  with  a Cougar.— The  Ferine  Animals  of 
Olancho. — Catacamas. — Appearance  of  the  Town. — Trade. — Indian  Inhabit- 
ants.— A Ride  to  the  Guayape. — A Macaw  Convention. — Feather  Robes. — 
Scene  on  the  River. — Santa  Clara. — Deer  Stalking. — Quebrantehuesos. — Veg- 
etable Ivory. — A Death  Scene 379 

CHAPTER  XXH. 

The  Platinal. — Plantains  : their  Cultivation. — Ancient  Ideas  respecting. — The 
Route  home. — Pita. — Deer-skins. — Burning  the  Bolpochi. — Description  of 
venomous  Snakes. — Antidotes. — After  the  Ceremonies. — A nocturnal  Prowl- 
er.— Peruvian  Bark. — Rice. — The  Olancho  Air-gun. — Tobacco. — Return  to 
Jutecalpa. — Gold  Stories. — Musical  Reunion. — Commissions. — The  Depart- 
ure.— Lepaguare  again. — -A  Visit  to  the  Espumoso. — Mining  Adventures. — 
Making  a Contract. — “Kissing  the  Widow.” — Cold  Weather.— Hail.' — Jote- 
jiagua. — The  Gold  of  El  Panal. — El  Retiro. — Gold  at  Alajagua. — Rio  de 
Espana. — A novel  Method  of  Fishing. — Jutecalpa  again. — Bad  News. — Musty 
Documents. — Early  Settlers. — A Morning  Ride.— Good-by  to  Olancho...  400 

CHAPTER  XXHI. 

Guaymaca. — La  Nina  Alvina. — Talanga. — A night  in  the  House  of  Don  Gregorio 
Moncada. — Cofradilla. — DonaTomasa. — Tegucigalpa. — HospitableReception. 
— Silver. — The  Minerales  of  Tegucigalpa. — A trip  to  Santa  Lucia. — La  Mina 
Grande. — Silver  Mill. — The  Road. — Descent  into  la  Mina  de  San  Martin.— 
Method  of  extracting  the  Ores. — La  Mina  de  Gatal. — Want  of  Machinery  and 
Knowledge. — -Former  Productiveness. — Present  Yields. — Speculations  on  the 
Origin  of  Silver. — A Taladro. — A Campana. — Wandering  Miners. — Ascent  of 


XXII 


CONTENTS. 


el  Monte  de  Santa  Lucia. — Villa  Nueva. — La  Mina  de  Pena. — La  Mina  de 
Zopilote. — Primitive  Smelting  process. — Copper-hill  of  El  Chimbo.— Captain 
Moore. — Legends  of  the  Mines.-— La  Mina  de  Guayabillas. — Story  of  its  Dis- 
covery.— The  Arjenal  Pamily. — English  Enterprise. — “La  Fatalidad  del  Pais.’" 
— Last  Days  of  the  Guayabilla  Mine. — Departure  for  Home. — Amapala  again. 
— The  War. — “The  Walker  Contract.” — Bay  of  Fonseca  by  Moonlight. — At 
Sea  in  a Launch. — Realejo. — San  Juan. — An  American  Steam-ship. — 
Home Page  421 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

HISEORICAL  SKETCH  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  1502 1821. 

Aboriginal  Inhabitants  of  Honduras. — Columbus  first  lands  on  the  American 
Continent. — Early  Settlement  of  the  Coast. — Exploration  and  Settlement  of 
the  Interior. — Cortez  at  Truxillo. — Expeditions  into  Olancho. — Subjugation 
of  the  Indians.— Missionary  Expeditions  into  Olancho  and  Segovia. — Estab- 
lishment of  Spanish  Sovereignty. — The  Colonial  System  of  Spain. — Causes  of 
the  Central  American  Revolution. — Declaration  of  Independence 449 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  1821 1843. 

The  Central  American  Republic. — The  Serviles  and  Liberals. — Francisco  Mo- 
razan.- — The  Republic  in  Prosperity.  — Rafael  Carrera.- — Dissolution  of  the 
Union. — Morazan  a Fugitive. — Triumph  of  the  Serviles. — Return  of  Morazan. 
— His  Betrayal  and  Death  467 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  1843 1857. 

The  Central  American  States  as  distinct  Sovereignties. — Siege  of  Leon. — In- 
surrections.— Attempts  to  reconstruct  the  Republic. — Trinidad  Cabanas  Presi- 
dent of  Honduras. — The  War  with  Guatemala. — Nicaragua  as  a Republic. — 
The  Castellon  and  Chamorro  War. — Enlistment  of  Americans.— Decline  of 
the  Administration  of  Cabanas. — Concluding  Remarks 494 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Silver  Mining  in  Honduras. — Mineral  Districts  and  Mines  of  Tegucigalpa. — 
Methods  of  extracting  the  Metal. — The  Gold  Region  of  Olancho  and  Yoro. — 


Gold  Mining. — Copper  and  other  Metals. — Opals  and  Precious  Stones  ...  522 
CHAPTER  XXVm. 

Climate  of  the  Interior. — Of  the  Coasts.  — Diseases. — Public  Instruction. — 
Amusements. — Religion. — Aboriginal  Remains. — Ancient  and  present  Popu- 
lation.— Government. — Political  Divisions 540 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Commerce. — Exports  and  Imports.  — Commercial  Regulations.  — Revenue. — 
Seals. — Public  Debt 558 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Coins  and  Currency. — Weights  and  Measures. — The  Department  of  Olancho. — 
The  Guayape  or  Patook  River. — Timber  Trees. — Cabinet  and  Dye  Woods. — 
Staple  Productions. — Wild  and  cultivated  Fruits. — Drugs,  Balsams,  and  me- 
dicinal Plants 567 


LIST  OF  MAPS  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS, 


Map  of  Eastern  Honduras.  pagc 

The  Guayape,  below  Jutecalpa Frontispiece. 

Virgin  Bay 31 

Entrance  to  the  Port  of  Eealejo 62 

Landing  at  the  Port  of  Realejo 64 

Procession  of  Holy  Week 85 

Approach  to  Leon 87 

Calle  Real,  Leon 89 

Cathedral  of  Leon 95 

The  Bridge  of  Leon  99 

The  Great  Plain  of  Leon 103 

El  Puerto  de  Zempisque.  109 

View  on  the  Estero  Real 113 

Bongo  Navigation 123 

The  Juacamalla 136 

The  Iguana 149 

Sierra  Traveling 167 

City  of  Tegucigalpa 180  - 

La  Paroquia 187 

Bridge  of  Tegucigalpa 191 

Trogons  Resplendens 196 

View  near  Rio  Abajo 240 

Limestone  Hill 243 

Tusterique  Hill  244 

San  Diego  de  Talanga 246 

Travelers  Nooning 249 

In  the  Mountain  Storm 252 

Village  of  Campamento 260 

Platinal  in  the  Campamento  Mountains 264 

Hacienda  of  La  Lima 270 

Hacienda  of  Lepaguare 271 

Murcielago  Bar 280 

First  Rocker  in  Honduras 287 

Cattle  Hacienda 296 

Guayape  River,  near  Galeras 297 

Jutecalpa  from  the  Southwest 311 

Calle  de  Concepcion,  Jutecalpa 333 

Primitive  Crushing-mill 342 

Breaking  Ore 343 


XXIV 


LIST  OF  MAPS  AJSfD  ILLU STK  ATION S . 


Page 

Pipantes  Log  Shooting 353 

Spanish  Dance 357 

The  Armadillo 358 

Lake  of  Quebracha 360 

The  Agouti 362 

Bird  Music 370 

Olancho  Viejo 381 

Skeleton  Cattle  on  the  Guayape 387 

Plowing 388 

Indian  Laborers 393 

Indian  Town  of  Catacamas 395 

The  Scorpion 405 

El  Espumoso 411 

Chilpate  Fishing 418 

Cone  of  Comayagua 428 

Campana,  or  Caving  in 434 

Taladro  and  Tanatero 438 

Entrance  to  a Mine 439 

Map  of  Central  America 448 

Great  Seal  of  Honduras 466 

Francisco  Morazan 473 

Santos  Guardiola 516 

Jose  Trinidad  Cabanas 502 

Coins  of  Central  America 568 


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EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Objects  of  the  Journey  to  Olancho. — Departure  from  California. — San  Juan  del 
Sur. — New  York  Passengers. — The  Hoad  to  Virgin  Bay. — Scenery. — Climate. 
— Ometepe. — Storm  on  Lake  Nicaragua. — New  Acquaintances. — The  War. — 
Departure  for  Rivas. — Lake  Nicaragua. — Bio  Lejas. — Crossing  a Quick-sand. 
— Night  in  the  Woods.  — A tropical  Thunder-storm.  — Rivas.  — A moonligbi 
Ramble. — “ Quien  vive  ?” 

Early  in  1854,  I left  San  Francisco,  California,  to  visit  Cen- 
tral America,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  certain  mining  and 
commercial  privileges  from  the  government  of  Honduras.  The 
enterprise,  originating  with  a New  York  merchant,  had  passed 
from  hand  to  hand,  until  the  papers  and  documents  connected 
with  it  had  found  their  way  to  California,  where  the  broad  lib- 
erality and  eager  spirit  of  adventure  at  that  date  seemed  to 
offer  a more  genial  soil  for  the  inception  of  such  projects. 

The  time  was  considered  as  peculiarly  favorable  for  success- 
ful negotiation  with  the  people  of  Central  America,  and  espe- 
cially with  those  of  Honduras,  the  government  of  which  state 
had  dispatched  one  of  its  most  eminent  citizens  to  the  United 
States  with  the  view  of  opening  the  country  to  American  im- 
migration, a course  then  thought  likely  to  advance  its  social 
and  commercial  interests. 

I was  fortunate  in  obtaining  letters  of  introduction  from  sev- 
eral Central  Americans  to  some  of  the  leading  citizens  of  Hon- 
duras, as  well  as  a package  of  similar  papers  from  the  Hon. 
Henry  S.  Foote,  Hon.  Ogden  Hoffman,  Jr.,  Governor  Bigler, 
of  California,  and  several  other  national  and  state  officers,  which 
enabled  me  to  look  forward  with  pleasure  and  confidence  to  my 
journey. 

With  these,  and  the  imperfect  information  I could  obtain  from 

the  few  books  relating  to  Central  America  at  that  time  access- 

B 


26 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ible  in  California,  I embarked  in  the  steamer  Cortez,  and,  bid- 
ding adieu  to  the  little  knot  of  friends  on  the  wharf,  the  ex- 
pression of  whose  sincere  wishes  for  my  success  was  long  im- 
pressed with  pleasure  on  my  memory,  we  glided  out  of  the  noble 
harbor,  and  were  soon  plowing  the  blue  waters  of  the  Pacific. 
With  occasional  glimpses  of  the  coast,  now  gliding  by  the 
shadowy  outlines  of  inland  mountains,  or  skirting  the  grassy 
headlands  of  Mexico  and  Guatemala,  we  entered,  on  the  thir- 
teenth day,  the  little  harbor  of  San  Juan  del  Sur,  our  first  expe- 
rience of  Central  American  peculiarities  of  climate  being  a tem- 
pestuous rain-squall,  a significant  foretaste  of  what  might  be 
expected  for  the  future. 

Thanks  to  the  attention  of  our  courteous  commander,  our  two 
weeks  of  steam-boat  life  had  been  little  else  than  a pleasure- 
trip,  the  too  speedy  conclusion  of  which  we  rather  regarded  with 
regret.  From  our  position  on  the  quarter-deck  we  could  ob- 
serve the  general  appearance  of  the  town,  and  the  tropical  scen- 
ery of  eternal  green  beyond.  The  foreign  appearance  of  the 
picture  was  somewhat  marred  by  the  familiar  architecture  of  the 
principal  houses,  and  the  very  un-Spanish  oaths  and  activity  at- 
tending the  bustle  of  debarkation. 

A swarm  of  dusky  natives  in  bongos  mingled  their  broken 
English  with  the  gruff  and  business-like  tones  of  the  habitual 
New  York  boatman,  in  the  noisy  competition  for  “fares.”  We 
waited  for  the  rush  to  subside,  and  then  quietly  seating  our- 
selves, with  Captain  Cropper,  in  the  steamer’s  boat,  pulled  for 
the  shore,  along  which  a white  crest  of  foam  sparkled  and 
dashed  with  a gentle  murmur  peculiarly  soothing  after  the  mo- 
notonous rattle  of  the  engine,  and  the  endless  variety  of  noises 
marking  the  passage  of  a steam-ship  filled  with  Americans. 

The  rainy  season  was  now  at  its  height,  and  in  four  hours 
we  had  as  many  squalls,  attended  with  thunder  and  lightning. 
Under  these  circumstances,  prepared  as  I was  for  every  novelty 
in  scenery  and  character,  I cared  little  about  making  accurate 
notes  of  a place  which  every  California  traveler  has  passed 
through,  and  whose  novel  events  have  been  for  years  the  theme 
of  newspaper  comment. 

We  landed  astride  the  backs  of  negroes,  and  our  first  saluta- 
tion on  reaching  the  shores  of  Central  America  was  from  a bare- 


SAN  JUAN  DEL  SUE. 


27 


legged,  half-naked  negro  soldier,  whose  dingy  exterior  could  be 
only  paralleled  in  ludicrous  effect  by  the  rusty  English  musket 
with  which  he  strutted  along  the  line  of  surf.  My  first  care 
was  to  seek  a lodging-house,  and  the  Pacific  Plotel  appealing 
the  most  promising,  we  wended  our  way  thither,  our  baggage 
following  us  on  the  backs  of  three  or  four  natives,  who  de- 
manded a real  each  for  their  services. 

By  10  A.M.  the  passengers,  numbering  some  six  hundred, 
had  mounted,  and  were  en  .route,  over  the  company’s  road,  for 
Virgin  Bay ; and,  standing  in  the  balcony  of  our  hotel,  we  waved 
adieus  to  the  many  acquaintances  we  had  made  on  board,  until, 
the  last  disappearing,  we  had  our  trunks  carried  up  and  were 
soon  duly  installed  in  our  quarters.  Habit,  in  years  past, 
among  the  South  Americans,  had  acquainted  me  with  the  use 
of  the  hammock,  so  that  it  seemed  no  strange  thing  to  drop 
into  one  of  these  swinging  comforts,  and,  with  the  help  of  an 
excellent  cigar  (a  remnant  of  San  Francisco),  to  dream  away  an 
hour,  lulled  by  the  soothing  rustle  of  the  surf,  and  drowsily  spec- 
ulating upon  the  duties  of  the  expedition. 

Our  host,  Mr.  Priest,  soon  made  our  acquaintance,  and,  learn- 
ing our  destination,  advised  us  by  no  means  to  attempt  reaching 
the  northern  part  of  the  state  by  land,  while  the  lake,  being  in- 
fested with  the  cruisers  of  the  Chamorro  party,  was  a dangerous 
passage  for  foreigners,  especially  Americans,  many  of  whom, 
having  joined  the  Liberal  or  Casteilon  party,  were  henceforth  the 
special  objects  of  the  enemy’s  vengeance : it  was  even  asserted 
that  Chamorro  had  issued  orders  to  his  subordinates  to  give  no 
quarter  to  Americans  in  or  out  of  the  service  of  the  opposite 
cause.  The  country  from  San  Juan  to  Masaya  was  in  the 
hands  of  the  Casteilon  party,  but,  beyond  that  point,  we  should 
come  into  the  vicinity  of  Granada,  the  stronghold  of  Chamorro. 
Mr.  Priest  advised  us  to  await  the  arrival  of  a coasting  schoon- 
er daily  expected  from  Punta  Arenas,  and  bound  to  Realejo. 

While  we  were  conversing  with  our  loquacious  host,  we  were 
joined  by  two  gentlemen,  evidently  foreigners,  who,  as  we  after- 
ward learned,  were  sons  of  Don  Carlos  Dardano,  of  Amapala, 
Tigre  Island,  to  whom  I had  letters  of  introduction.  These 
young  men  had  been  waiting  alternately  at  San  Juan  and  Vir- 
gin Bay  for  several  weeks,  in  company  with  Mr.  Henry  Matsell, 


28 


EXPLOITATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


lately  appointed  consul  to  La  Union  in  San  Salvador.  Mr. 
Matsell  was  unwilling  to  venture  with  his  family  through  the 
country  or  by  the  lake,  and  now,  driven  to  desperation,  was  ne- 
gotiating for  the  repair  of  a decayed  long-boat  turned  bottom  up 
upon  the  beach,  in  which  to  embark  with  his  household  gods  for 
Realejo,  where  he  was  assured  of  hospitable  entertainment  and 
a reasonable  amount  of  comforts. 

The  lady  who  at  this  moment  joined  us,  in  company  with  a 
dark-eyed  little  girl,  seemed  already,  wearied  with  her  few  weeks 
of  Nicaraguan  life.  She  complained  of  languor  and  debility, 
the  effects  of  which  are  sure  to  mark  themselves  upon  the 
female  visitor  who  remains  under  the  enervating  influence  of 
the  tropical  sun. 

After  a long  consultation,  in  which  the  Dardanos  urged  us  to 
remain  with  them,  still  persisting  in  their  refusal  of  the  land- 
route,  while  our  party  as  steadily  rejected  the  dubious  chances 
of  the  shattered  long-boat,  we  succeeded  in  securing  the  serv- 
ices of  a number  of  mules,  whose  owners  were  found  playing 
monte  in  the  Calle  de  Pineda,  and  agreed  with  them  to  trans- 
port us  and  our  baggage  to  Rivas  at  the  rate  of  four  dollars  per 
mule,  the  train  to  start  early  on  the  following  morning. 

There  had  been  a regular  succession  of  rain  squalls  during 
our  two  days’  stay  here,  the  thermometer  at  noon  standing  at 
90°  in  the  shade,  and  the  squalls  succeeded  by  bursts  of  fierce 
sunlight,  striking  down  among  the  dank  foliage  skirting  the 
town  in  the  background.  Early  next  morning,  fortified  with  a 
hearty  breakfast,  we  began,  with  the  anxiety  of  true  novices  in 
the  science  of  Central  American  dilatoriness,  to  look  about  for 
our  arieros,  or  muleteers.  Dixon  (an  American  in  the  com- 
pany’s office,  to  whom  I was  indebted  for  many  useful  hints) 
laughingly  advised  us  to  learn  and  adopt,  as  speedily  as  possi- 
ble, the  universal  Spanish  adage,  poco  a poco — literally,  take  it 
easy,  for  we  would  soon  discover  the  fallacy  of  attempting  to 
hurry  a native. 

At  10  o’clock,  a cloud  of  dust,  and  a series  of  indescribable 
hoots  and  shouts,  never  heard  out  of  American  society,  pro- 
claimed the  arrival  of  the  New  York  passengers,  who,  to  the 
number  of  several  hundred,  speedily  took  possession  of  the  little 
town.  Amid  the  uproar,  and  just  as  we  had  recognized  a num- 


THE  TRANSIT  ROUTE. 


29 


her  of  old  Californians  on  their  return  to  the  land  of  gold,  our 
mules  arrived,  and  without  waiting  to  admonish  the  ai'iero  to 
future  punctuality,  we  turned  our  faces  toward  Virgin  Bay,  a 
drenching  shower  of  rain  saluting  us  when  little  more  than  a 
mile  on  the  road.  This  we  knew  we  must  become  used  to  in 
the  succeeding  eight  months ; so,  wrapping  our  ponchos  about 
us,  we  pressed  cheerily  onward,  looking  forward  with  eager  hope 
to  our  arrival  at  Rivas. 

It  was  with  pride  as  Americans  that  we  viewed  the  line  Mac- 
adamized road,  extending  a distance  of  thirteen  miles  through 
a dense  jungle,  the  wild  aspect  of  the  surrounding  country  con- 
trasting curiously  with  the  evidences  of  civilization  and  the 
results  of  active  industry  displayed  in  the  bridges  and  excava- 
tions along  the  route.  The  work  was  one  of  many  examples 
beyond  the  limits  of  the  United  States,  where  the  genius  and 
enterprise  of  our  countrymen  are  overcoming  the  terrors  of  trop- 
ical climates,  and  opening  to  the  world  the  vast  undeveloped 
fields  of  enterprise  presented  through  the  Central  American 
Isthmus. 

To  us,  who  had  for  years  beheld  at  San  Francisco  the  semi- 
monthly arrival  of  hundreds  of  passengers  passing  with  safety 
through  these  regions,  there  seemed  scarcely  any  thing  foreign 
in  the  scene.  But  the  profuse  vegetation  bounding  the  view  on 
every  side,  the  flights  of  painted  macaws  and  noisy  parrots 
passing  at  intervals  overhead,  the  impressive  stillness  of  the 
forest,  added  to  the  undefined  and  interesting  country  through 
which  our  journey  must  carry  us  before  the  distant  goal  could 
> be  reached,  produced  a glad  exhilaration  of  spirits,  a joyous 
sense  of  freedom,  with  a prospective  dash  of  wild  adventure 
only  known  to  those  who,  from  necessity  or  choice,  have  left 
behind  them  the  restraints  and  conventionalities  of  society. 

Most  American  readers  have  been  accustomed  from  childhood 
to  associate  romantic  and  often  extravagant  ideas  with  those 
mysterious  countries  whose  dusky  tribes,  birds  of  brilliant 
plumage,  strange  animals,  and  precious  products  were  brought 
to  light  by  the  explorations  of  the  Spanish  adventurers  of  the 
sixteenth  century.  The  limited  means  of  information,  often 
confined  to  the  exaggerated  chronicles  of  the  early  conquerors, 
or  the  fabulous  tales  of  the  padres  accompanying  them;  the 


30 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


unimportant  commerce  hitherto  existing  between  the  Central 
American  States  and  the  maritime  nations  of  the  world;  the 
difficulty  of  communication  until  the  gold  placers  of  California 
awakened  those  dozing  solitudes  into  life  as  a means  of  transit 
to  the  Pacific;  their  retired  position,  apparently  out  of  the  great 
routes  of  the  world’s  commerce — these  and  other  evident  causes 
have,  until  within  the  last  few  years,  not  only  prevented  the 
country  from  becoming  more  intimately  known,  but  seemed  to 
offer  few,  if  any  inducements  to  the  merchant  or  the  traveler. 

The  mahogany  vessel  returning  from  the  pestiferous  lowlands 
of  the  Spanish  Main,  her  crew  often  pallid  with  disease,  and 
bearing  appalling  accounts  of  the  climate  they  had  left,  were 
enough  to  influence  the  mind  of  even  the  hardiest  adventurer, 
while  the  fate  of  the  few  attempts  to  colonize  with  European 
settlers  seemed  to  point  out  the  coast  as  a Golgotha  for  all  for- 
eigners venturesome  enough  to  make  it  even  a temporary  place 
of  residence.  Of  the  interior,  little  or  nothing  was  known  ex- 
cept that  it  was  a “tropical  climate” — quite  sufficient  to  make 
the  trader  reflect  long  and  earnestly  before  visiting  its  shores, 
and  the  mariner  to  turn  with  a shudder  from  the  proposed  voy- 
age. The  advance  of  civilization  is  fast  placing  Central  Amer- 
ica in  glowing  prominence  before  the  world.  Old  and  fabulous 
ideas  respecting  its  people  and  climate  are  giving  way  before 
the  research  of  the  nervous  Anglo-Saxon  race.  Tales  of  its 
poisonous  miasma ; its  inviting  exterior,  concealing  savage  beasts 
of  prey  and  venomous  reptiles;  its  dark  jungles,  the  birth-place 
of  malaria,  and  its  luxuriant  foliage,  exhaling  the  vapors  of  dis- 
ease and  death — these  have  passed  away  as  idle  dreams,  and  no  - 
longer  deter  the  march  of  the  adventurer.  The  natural  re- 
sources of  the  country,  equaling  in  variety  and  excelling  in 
quantity  those  of  the  coveted  Cuba,  added  to  its  proximity  to 
the  United  States,  can  not  but  eventually  bring  it  into  closer 
intimacy  with  the  spirit  of  commercial  enterprise  characterizing 
the  day. 

Our  ariero  was  a Jamaican,  whose  occupation  was  to  furnish 
mules  to  the  Transit  Company  at  a stipulated  price  per  head. 
He  was  said  to  be  the  owner  of  above  a hundred  animals,  em- 
ploying a large  number  of  natives,  and  I was  assured  by  a ne- 
gro who  walked  beside  my  mule  that  it  was  no  small  honor  to 
be  attended  in  person  by  the  “ patron.” 


VIRGIN  BAY. 


31 


VI3GIN  BAY. 

About  half  way  over  the  road  we  came  to  an  elevated  place, 
tiom  which,  the  forest  opening  to  the  eastward,  we  obtained  a 
glimpse  of  the  volcano  of  Ometepe,  situated  on  the  island  of  that 
name,  to  the  eastward  of  Virgin  Bay.  The  atmosphere  being 
perfectly  clear,  and  the  rays  of  a noonday  sun  striking  upon  its 
side,  produced  the  remarkable  indigo  hue  described  in  several 
Central  American  works  as  marking  the  distant  mountain 
scenery  of  the  country.  This  was  my  first  glimpse  of  the 
great  volcanic  chain  extending  through  Nicaragua,  and  it  was 
only  then  that  I began  to  realize  the  fact  that  I was  amid  the 
scenery  and  florid  verdure  of  the  tropics— in  a land  whose  his- 
tory,  extending  back  to  the  discovery  of  the  continent,  was  rife 
with  interest  and  romance. 

Shortly  after  noon  we  came  out  at  the  little  town  known  as 
Virgin  Bay,  and  cantering  down  its  one  wide  and  well-graded 
thoroughfare  we  pulled  up  at  the  house  of  Judge  Cushing,  at 
this  time  the  acting  agent  of  the  Transit  Company.  We  were 
kindly  invited  to  dismount ; and  when,  upon  entering  the  cool 
and  stately  room  of  the  agent,  I was  introduced  to  an  old  and 
valued  acquaintance  (late  charge  to  Ecuador),  I felt  well  repaid 
for  the  melting  journey  from  San  Juan  del  Sur.  From  the 


32 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


window,  opening  upon  the  lake,  we  obtained  a fine  view  of  this 
noble  expanse  of  water.  A gentle  breeze  entered  the  room,  cool 
from  the  waves  beyond.  Far  to  the  southeast,  the  diurnal  ehu- 
basco,  or  afternoon  squall  of  the  rainy  season,  was  making  up, 
the  sombre  shadows  cast  by  the  castellated  clouds  creeping  grad- 
ually up  until  the  entire  southern  horizon  was  shaded  in  gloom, 
and  the  lofty  peaks  of  Ometepe  and  Madiera  were  enveloped  in 
impenetrable  clouds.  Vivid  flashes  of  lightning  and  loud  thun- 
der soon  announced  the  nearer  approach  of  the  storm,  and  in 
another  minute  the  view  was  entirely  shut  out  by  a sheet  of 
falling  water,  which,  passing  on  to  the  town,  steamed  off  the 
heated  tiles  with  curious  effect.  Judge  Cushing  assured  us 
that  this  was  by  no  means  equal  to  the  usual  severe  thunder- 
storms of  this  season.  It  was  of  short  duration,  however,  and 
the  sky  clearing  up  about  2 o’clock,  we  prepared  to  continue 
our  journey  toward  Rivas,  a distance  of  some  ten  miles. 

While  in  San  Juan,  Mr.  Pardee,  TJ.  S.  Consul  at  that  place, 
learning  that  I intended  to  stop  at  Leon,  had  given  me  official 
letters  to  Castellon,  there  then  being  no  safe  means  of  commu- 
nication with  the  northern  part  of  the  state.  Both  parties 
claiming  to  be  the  legitimate  rulers  of  the  land,  he  had  not  de- 
cided which  to  recognize,  but  finally  judged  it  safe,  for  the 
present,  to  admit  the  rights  of  those  actually  in  possession. 
His  letters  were  consequently  addressed  to  the  Provisional 
Director,  acknowledging  his  authority,  and  requesting  his  exe- 
quatur. Judge  Cushing  also  felt  disposed  to  admit  the  Cas- 
tellon cause ; but,  both  parties  claiming  the  moneys  due  from 
the  Transit  Company  to  the  state,  he  had,  with  true  diplomacy, 
refused  payment  to  either,  until  the  tide  of  events  should  set 
permanently  in  favor  of  one  or  the  other  party. 

We  left  Rivas,  the  mercury  at  90°  in  the  shade,  and  were 
strenuously  advised  by  a new  acquaintance,  a Dr.  Davis,  claim- 
ing to  be  surgeon-general  of  the  democratic  army,  not  to  start. 
Not  having,  however,  acquired,  as  yet,  the  _poco  a poeo  style  of 
the  country,  we  disregarded  the  advice  and  pushed  on ; in  hah 
an  hour  we  were  joined  by  the  doctor,  a stout,  jovial  fellow, 
who,  preferring  company  on  his  route,  came  cantering  along  on 
a raw-boned  horse  rejoicing  in  the  sobriquet  of  “ Chingo.” 

The  doctor  was  a native  of  Ohio,  and  had  lived  in  Nicaragua 


LAKE  NICARAGUA. 


S3 


for  three  years,  where  he  had  seen  every  species  of  adventure, 
ad  one  time  working  a silver  mine,  at  another  residing  as  phy- 
sician in  Granada  or  Masaya ; now  fighting  in  the  revolutions 
of  the  country,  and  now  acting  as  mate  on  board  some  of  the 
lake  steamers.  He  ascribed  his  present  exalted  station  to  the 
influence  of  an  officer  whom  he  had  frightened  into  good-humor 
during  a quarrel  a few  weeks  since.  The  doctor  was  strongly 
compromised  on  the  Castellon  side,  had  taken  an  active  part  in 
the  battles  of  the  preceding  May,  and  was  now  bound  to  the 
“ Jalteva,”  on  the  outskirts  of  Granada,  where  Chamorro  was 
closely  besieged  by  about  twelve  hundred  Leoneses  under  the 
command  of  General  Jerez.  He  had  been  to  Virgin  Bay  to 
bear  dispatches  and  obtain  medicines,  and  was  now  returning 
to  take  part  in  the  siege.  He  also  stated  that  in  Rivas  he  had 
half  a dozen  companions,  Americans,  who  would  accompany  us 
toward  Granada. 

Though  pleased  with  the  company  of  my  new  acquaintance, 
I was  not  sure  of  the  propriety  of  traveling  with  his  party,  as 
they  anticipated  being  at  least  taken  prisoners  on  the  route  and 
carried  into  Granada,  where  the  fact  of  accompanying  them 
would  insure  my  confinement  for  an  indefinite  time.  However, 
the  journey  must  be  made,  and,  resolving  to  trust  to  the  chances, 
we  pushed  on. 

Our  road  from  Virgin  Bay  toward  Rivas  lay  along  the  banks 
of  the  lake  about  four  miles,  and  the  rest  of  the  way  through  a 
well-cultivated  country,  composed  of  several  large  and  many 
small  cacao  and  other  plantations.  On  our  left  stretched  an 
apparently  impenetrable  growth  of  ceiba,  guanacaste,  and  other 
trees,  whose  dim  and  silent  leafy  glades,  as  we  rode  past  them, 
appeared  to  be  as  strange  and  solitary  as  when  the  old  Spanish 
conquerors  first  trod  this  prolific  soil.  To  the  right  lay  the 
great  lake,  its  extent  forcing  itself  upon  our  senses  by  the  hori- 
zon presented  eastward,  and  against  the  dreamy  sky,  a schoon- 
er, hull  down,  beating  up  toward  Granada.  This  was  the  only 
sign  of  commerce.  The  recent  squall  had  set  the  waters  in 
commotion,  and  the  heavy  surf  rolled  along  the  beach,  frequent!}' 
wetting  the  feet  of  our  mules,  and  at  times  dashing  boldly 
against  some  headland,  to  double  which  we  were  often  obliged 
to  enter  the  lake  and  urge  our  animals  nearly  up  to  the  saddlc- 

C 


34 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


girth.  Far  beyond,  and  looming  up  in  the  clear  sky,  the  vol- 
cano of  Zapatero  (the  shoemaker)  reared  its  head,  while  to  the 
right,  and  apparently  springing  out  of  the  lake,  stood  Ometepe 
and  Madiera,  the  island  on  which  they  are  situated  sunk  below 
the  horizon.  These  volcanoes  are  the  unfailing  landmarks 
throughout  the  state. 

There  are  various  legends  connected  with  Ometepe,  which  is 
estimated  to  be  six  thousand  feet  in  height,  though  I am  not 
aware  that  any  measurement  has  ever  been  made  of  its  altitude. 
There  are  several  old  Indian  families  on  the  island,  who  earn  an 
easy  living  by  raising  vegetables,  which  they  dispose  of  at  Vir- 
gin Bay,  making  daily  trips  across  in  bongos.  I was  inform- 
ed by  Mr.  Geer,  a gentleman  residing  several  years  at  Virgin 
Bay  and  San  Juan  del  Sur,  that  no  one  is  known  to  have  made 
the  ascent  to  its  peak.  He,  in  company  with  two  adventurous 
friends,  attempted  it  three  years  since,  and,  starting  from  the 
base  at  five  o’clock  in  the  morning,  arrived  within  a few  hund- 
red feet  of  the  summit  about  ten  hours  afterward.  Here,  how- 
ever, they  encountered  a steep  ascent  of  cinders,  up  which  they 
vainly  endeavored  to  scramble  until,  exhausted  with  their  efforts, 
and  sliding  back  at  every  moment,  they  were  glad  to  desist  and 
commence  the  descent  the  same  afternoon.  An  old  Indian,  who 
claims  to  have  reached  the  summit  many  years  since,  states  that 
there  is  a lake  of  water  situated  in  what  he  describes  as  an  ex- 
tinct crater.  Mr.  Geer  endeavored  to  ascertain  this  fact,  which 
the  old  natives  stoutly  adhere  to,  and  is  inclined  to  believe  it 
from  having  observed  above  him,  against  the  side  of  a high  per- 
pendicular cliff,  the  peculiar  shadows  produced  by  the  reflection 
of  waves  in  the  sunlight  against  a wall.  There  is  also  a con- 
siderable stream  issuing  from  the  side  of  the  mountain  a few 
hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  lake,  which  could  hardly 
be  accounted  for  in  any  other  manner  than  by  supposing  a lake 
above.  The  constant  clouds  around  the  peak  would  seem  to 
supply  such  a body  of  water.  Future  investigation,  however, 
will  doubtless  solve  the  problem. 

The  shores  of  Lake  Nicaragua  differ  little  from  those  of  the 
ocean,  and  a stranger,  to  view  the  swells  setting  in  here  during 
a heavy  blow,  might  easily  suppose  himself  on  the  sea-beach. 

As  I paused  on  a small  cape  or  promontory  jutting  into  the 


RIVER  LEJAS. 


35 


lake,  and  noted  the  splendid  expanse  of  water  before  me — a ho- 
rizon of  waves,  navigable  for  large  vessels  in  nearly  every  part, 
surrounded  by  land,  teeming  with  spontaneous  vegetation,  and 
justly  denominated  “ the  garden  of  the  world” — I could  not  re- 
press a feeling  of  deep  regret  that  a spot  upon  which  Nature 
seemed  to  have  lavished  her  choicest  gifts  should  be  but  a the- 
atre for  bloodthirsty  revolutions  and  fruitless  wars ; agriculture 
and  commerce  existing  but  in  name,  and  its  history  a reproach 
to  the  possessors  of  the  soil.  Surely  a country  so  happily  lo- 
cated, lying  midway  between  the  five  continents,  must  ere  long- 
become  the  scene  of  industry,  either  under  the  guidance  of  its 
native  inhabitants  or  in  the  hands  of  strangers. 

Along  our  route  we  found  flocks  of  aquatic  birds,  some  of 
them  of  the  heron  species.  We  passed  within  a few  yards  of 
them  before  they  arose,  with  shrill  screams,  alighting  a short 
distance  beyond.  Evidently  they  were  rarely  molested  or  shot. 
A variety  of  excellent  fish  may  be  taken  in  the  lake,  but  during 
our  stay  in  its  vicinity  none  were  offex-ed  for  sale.  It  was  plain 
the  inhabitants  are  too  indolent  to  avail  themselves  of  this  lux- 
ury. Lai-ge  tiburones  (sharks)  have  been  captured  in  the  lake  ; 
end  a few  months  previous,  a woman  at  Vii'gin  Bay,  washing 
on  the  banks,  was  seized  and  killed  by  an  alligator. 

A tall,  rocky  bluff  impeding  our  further  progress  by  the  beach, 
we  followed  a narrow  path  to  the  left  abruptly  into  the  foi*est, 
and,  after  plunging  about  for  some  time  in  a black  mire,  into 
which  our  mules  sank  nearly  to  the  knees  at  every  step,  we 
emei-ged  again  upon  the  lake  at  the  mouth  of  a small  stream 
about  fifty  yards  wide,  and  known  as  the  River  Lejas.  This 
stream,  dry  dui-ing  the  summer  months,  was  now  of  formidable 
depth,  and,  as  our  men  informed  us,  the  resort  of  alligators,  who 
ensconce  themselves  here  among  the  reeds  and  bushes  as  a re- 
treat from  the  high  winds. 

A canoe,  hollowed  out  of  a ceiba-tree,  lay  moored  at  the  bank. 
Two  half-naked  ferrymen  were  cooking  beef  at  a fire  near  the 
hut  of  branches  and  reeds  which  served  them  for  a residence. 
Nasario  commenced  unsaddling  our  mules,  and  placed  the  trap- 
pings in  the  canoe,  while  Chico,  the  doctor’s  servant,  a sprightly 
little  fellow  from  Costa  Rica,  attended  to  his  master’s  baggage. 
As  we  were  preparing  to  embark,  our  attention  was  called  to 


36 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


three  or  four  large  black  objects  a few  hundred  yards  up  the 
river,  which  our  men  told  us  were  alligators.  Little  relishing 
the  clumsy,  teetering  affair  in  which  we  were  about  to  enter,  I 
weighed  the  chances  of  a bath  in  the  sullen  waters  and  the  pos- 
sibility of  yielding  one  or  both  of  my  legs  to  the  monsters  around 
us,  who  were  evidently  intent  on  our  movements. 

The  mules,  after  some  beating  and  coaxing,  were  driven  into 
the  stream,  and,  sinking  to  their  noses,  they  struck  boldly  across, 
Nasario  yelling  loudly  at  them,  and,  in  answer  to  my  inquiries, 
remarking  that  there  was  nothing  to  fear  from  “los  lagartos” 
while  there  was  so  much  noise  on  the  banks.  We  followed  the 
mules,  and,  saddling  up,  paid  the  ferryman  a dollar  each,  and 
continued  our  journey,  but  not  until  I had  shot  an  armadillo, 
which  showed  itself  just  as  we  were  mounting.  These  animals 
I afterward  found  to  be  very  common,  though  at  the  time  I was 
desirous  of  preserving  the  shell  or  incrusted  covering. 

The  night  had  now  set  in,  and  in  half  an  hour  we  came  to 
another  small  stream,  into  which  the  doctor  fearlessly  urged  his 
horse,  with  the  remark  that  he  had  often  crossed  it  at  higher 
stages  of  tide  than  now ; but  he  had  not  calculated  for  the  di- 
rection of  the  winds  during  the  last  week,  and  when  within  a 
yard  of  the  opposite  shore  he  suddenly  disappeared  in  a quick- 
sand. It  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  we  saved  him 
and  horse  from  drowning.  After  wringing  out  his  clothes  and 
taking  an  extra  pull  at  a bottle  of  aguardiente,  which  he  never 
failed  to  have  in  his  maleta , he  remounted  with  great  good-hu- 
mor, and,  piloting  us  some  distance,  crossed  the  stream  higher 
up.  Striking  a mule-trail,  half  path  and  half  slough,  we  plunged 
into  the  forest,  the  way  so  completely  walled  on  each  side  with 
shrubbery  as  to  shut  out  even  the  dim  light  of  the  stars,  and 
prevent  our  distinguishing  any  object  a yard  in  advance. 

Onward  dashed  the  doctor,  however,  halting  at  intervals  to 
allow  us  to  overtake  him,  shouting  at  the  top  of  his  voice  to  in- 
dicate the  direction,  and  usually  passing  around  the  bottle  to  the 
equestrian  group  before  resuming  the  march.  He  affirmed  that 
a moderate  use  of  the  aguardiente  del  pais , when  undergoing 
excitement,  exposure,  or  fatigue,  had  enabled  him  to  experience 
the  greatest  trials  without  sickness.  After  my  arrival  in  Leon  I 
was  assured  of  the  same  by  two  foreign  physicians.  The  bev- 


THUNDER-STORM  IN  THE  WOODS. 


37 


erage,  whatever  may  he  its  beneficial  properties,  is  one  of  the 
most  repulsive  of  drinks ; and  months  afterward,  when  I had  be- 
come used  to  the  customs  of  the  country,  I could  never  taste  it 
without  a sensation  of  disgust. 

The  premonitory  muttering  of  thunder,  which  for  the  last 
hour  had  been  heard  in  the  distance,  now  became  nearer,  and 
the  ominous  pattering  of  large  drops  among  the  jungle  soon 
changed  into  a steady  downpour,  accompanied  with  crashing 
thunder,  and  lightning  so  vivid  as  to  illuminate  the  woods  in  all 
directions,  bringing  into  view  with  painful  distinctness  every 
twig  and  leaf,  to  be  again  succeeded  by  inky  darkness.  The 
hollows  of  the  muddy  road  became  formidable  pools,  through 
which,  and  over  the  irregularities  of  the  path,  we  pushed  stead- 
ily along,  our  late  romantic  enthusiasm  having  changed  into  a 
musing  silence,  occasionally  interrupted  by  the  shout  of  some 
one  of  the  party  lost  in  the  darkness.  From  time  to  time 
through  the  heated  night-air  the  cries  of  frogs,  tree-toads,  and 
night-birds  came  up  shrill  and  monotonous  from  the  surround- 
ing fens,  while  the  occasional  snorting  of  our  mules,  as  they 
stumbled  along,  nose  to  the  ground,  through  the  miry  path,  seem- 
ed a relief  to  the  solitary  wildness  of  the  route. 

We  had  reached  within  a mile  of  Rivas  when  the  moon 
arose,  making  our  path  somewhat  plainer ; and  soon  the  furious 
barking  of  a pack  of  dogs  assured  us  that  we  were  entering  the 
precincts  of  the  town. 

Thatched  and  tiled  houses  became  more  frequent,  and  the 
noise  of  the  dogs  brought  loungingly  to  his  door  the  swarthy 
villager,  who,  scanning  us  from  under  his  hand  as  we  splashed 
by,  either  replied  briefly  to  our  salutation,  or  watched  us  in  si- 
lence till  we  disappeared  in  the  darkness.  Turning  a sharp  an- 
gle formed  by  a row  of  low,  whitewashed  adobe  houses,  we  trav- 
ersed a roughly-paved  but  dilapidated  street,  silent  as  the  grave, 
clattering  through  which  we  came  out  upon  the  grand  Plaza 
of  Rivas,  seen  by  the  dim  rays  of  the  moon,  with  its  partly- 
built  church  and  regular  private  dwellings,  presenting  a much 
more  impressive  spectacle  than  we  had  been  prepared  to  meet, 
and  awakening  agreeable  anticipations  for  the  morrow. 

We  followed  the  doctor  to  the  door  of  the  most  important 
house  on  the  Plaza,  whence  issued  a gentleman  wdio  addressed 


38 


EXPECTATIONS  IN  HONDUKAS. 


us  in  English,  and  was  introduced  as  Dr.  Cole.  With  charac- 
teristic hospitality  we  were  invited  to  alight,  hammocks  and 
beds  were  prepared  for  our  party,  a boy  sent  out  to  meet  our 
lagging  arieros  with  the  baggage-mules,  and  in  another  half 
hour  a supper  of  hot  coffee,  eggs,  and  jpan  dulce  was  prepared 
for  us  by  the  hands  of  the  senora  herself,  whom  our  host  inform- 
ed us  he  had  lately  married  from  one  of  the  first  families  of  the 
department. 

While  the  supper  was  cooking  we  strolled  up  the  nearest 
street,  now  brightly  illumined  by  the  moon,  and,  passing  the 
ruins  of  the  church  of  San  Felipe,  destroyed  some  years  since 
by  an  earthquake,  came  to  a log  and  mud  fort  with  one  em- 
brasure, out  of  which  looked  the  muzzle  of  a small  cannon  (about 
a six-pounder),  while  a loud  and  startling  challenge,  “ Quien 
vive  fn  brought  us  to  the  consciousness  that  we  were  in  a garri- 
soned town.  “ la  Patria  /”  we  replied.  “ Que  gente  fn  ’•‘■Nic- 
aragua /”  But,  though  now  permitted  to  continue  our  stroll, 
we  were  too  tired  to  satisfy  our  curiosity,  and  retraced  our  steps. 
After  the  welcome  repast,  lighting  the  cigarro  proffered  to  us  by 
the  senora,  we  entered  into  conversation  with  our  host,  an  intel- 
ligent and  well-educated  gentleman,  whose  life,  passed  among 
the  southern  cities,  had  been  an  unceasing  round  of  excitement : 
Texas,  Mexico,  California,  China,  and  Central  America  had  each 
been  the  respective  theatre  of  his  numerous  adventures.  He  had 
finally  settled  in  Nicaragua,  drawn  thither,  he  said,  by  the  flat- 
tering accounts  of  the  country.  Here  he  had  married  the  daugh- 
ter of  a large  cacao  planter,  and,  being  a physician  by  profession, 
had  already  acquired  the  confidence  and  good-will  of  the  people. 
I asked  him  how  he  had  succeeded  in  overcoming  the  religious 
scruples  of  the  lady,  having  heard  that  none  but  Catholics  were 
permitted  by  the  rules  of  the  Church  to  marry  into  the  native  fam- 
ilies. He  replied  that,  although  this  was  generally  believed  to 
be  the  case,  such  objections  were  rarely,  if  ever,  urged  where  the 
affections  of  the  lady  or  the  interest  of  the  parents  were  engaged. 

The  night  was  far  advanced  when,  availing  ourselves  of  the 
kindly  hospitalities  of  our  host,  we  retired  to  rest,  and  slept 
soundly,  despite  the  bleating  of  a young  goat,  and  the  nipping 
of  myriads  of  those  indispensable  household  articles,  “ pulgas." 


EIYAS. 


39 


CHAPTER  II. 

Rivas. — Evidence  of  an  older  City. — Department  Meridional. — Agriculture. — 
Country  Houses. — Productions. — Dwelling-houses. — Hacienda  of  Santa  Ursu- 
la.— Cacao  Planting. — Scenery. — Boa  Constrictor. — An  Alarm. — Jose  Ber- 
mudas.— Women. — Piety. — Bust  of  Washington. — Earthquakes. — Difficulties 
of  Departure. — The  Start. — Obraje. — Oracion. — Tropical  Scenery. — Las  Can- 
delleras. — Right  of  Search. — The  Camp. — Shooting  Deer. — Valley  of  Nau- 
dyme. — Ochomogo. — Startling  News. — The  Retreat.- — Hacienda  de  San  Fran- 
cisco.— Las  Tortilleras. — A Night’s  March. — Rivas  again. 

It  is  supposed  that  Rivas  stands  upon  the  site  of  a much  old- 
er city,  there  being  traces  of  ancient  streets  running  in  an  oppo- 
site direction  to  the  present  ones.  The  Department  Meridional, 
of  which  it  is  the  capital,  having  from  time  immemorial  been 
subject  to  more  severe  earthquakes  than  occur  in  the  northern 
portions  of  the  state,  it  is  believed  that  the  ruins  are  those  of  a 
city  destroyed  a century  since.  No  reliable  account,  however, 
exists  of  the  circumstance. 

The  town  stands  in  the  centre  of  an  extensive  plain  over- 
grown with  rank  vegetation  and  interspersed  with  cacao,  coffee, 
sugar,  and  indigo  plantations,  which  are  reckoned  among  the 
most  valuable  in  the  state.  It  is  situated  about  three  miles 
from  the  lake,  and  is  surrounded  by  several  small  towns,  prop- 
erly outskirts  of  Rivas,  but  each  designated  by  its  particular 
name.  The  town,  with  its  environs,  is  doubtless  the  third  in 
population  in  Nicaragua,  though  the  foliage  intersecting  the  nu- 
merous small  haciendas  and  the  garden  space  allotted  to  each 
residence  hides  its  true  proportions.  Toward  the  lake,  and  serv- 
ing as  an  embarcadero  for  the  town,  is  the  village  of  San  Jorge, 
which  is  usually  estimated  as  a portion  of  Rivas. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Department  Meridional  are  mostly 
mestizos , or  the  mixed  races  of  Indian  and  negro.  At  the  time 
of  my  visit,  nearly  all  of  the  men  had  fled  to  the  more  secluded 
parts  of  the  country  to  avoid  impressment  into  the  army,  there 
being  no  respect  shown  where  the  government  stood  in  need 
of  soldiers.  This  left  the  estates,  especially  those  devoted  to 


40 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  culture  of  cacao,  entirely  deserted  of  labor,  and  in  many  in- 
stances the  result  of  years  of  patient  toil  had  been  lost  by  the 
summary  seizure  of  the  workmen  of  the  plantation.  With  such 
high-handed  practices,  there  can  be  but  little  encouragement  for 
agricultural  industry.  Indeed,  I was  credibly  informed  by  Mr. 
Stanisbury,  married  into  one  of  the  Rivas  families,  that  the  pro- 
portion of  women  to  men  was  as  four  to  two  at  that  time,  owing 
to  the  desertion  of  the  pueblos  by  the  male  inhabitants. 

Most  of  the  haciendas  are  approached  from  the  camino  real , 
or  public  highway,  by  almost  hidden  paths,  leading  miles  into 
the  interior,  and  which  would  usually  escape  the  notice  of  any 
but  experienced  eyes.  They  are  situated  generally  in  remote 
places,  and  as  far  as  practicable  from  the  theatre  of  the  frequent 
revolutions  devastating  the  land  and  always  effectually  frustra- 
ting for  the  time  the  labors  of  the  cultivator.  From  these  re- 
treats the  natives  repair  occasionally  to  the  cities  with  vegeta- 
bles and  fruit,  but  in  times  of  revolution  with  the  constant  fear 
of  being  entrapped  and  enlisted. 

The  dwellings  of  the  country  estates,  as  well  as  of  the  small- 
er towns,  are  usually  rude  and  lightly-constructed  huts  of  cane, 
thatched  with  dried  palm-leaves,  which,  when  carefully  placed, 
are  impervious  to  the  rain.  Chimneys  are  dispensed  with,  the 
door  serving  as  a means  of  egress  for  the  smoke,  or,  oftener,  the 
cooking  being  done  in  the  open  air,  and  the  family  sitting  around 
the  fire  at  meal  times.  At  no  season  of  the  year  is  the  climate 
of  sufficient  severity  to  require  more  substantial  dwellings.  In 
the  larger  towns,  however,  the  houses  are  of  adobe,  neatly  and 
even  handsomely  built,  and  commonly  whitewashed  over  plas- 
tered walls,  with  regularly-laid  tiles  for  roofs. 

The  capabilities  of  Nicaragua,  and  especially  of  the  southern 
portion  of  the  state,  are  yet  unknown,  and,  until  the  present 
time,  there  seems  to  have  been  but  little  inducement  for  the  de- 
velopment of  her  resources.  It  needs  but  healthy  activity  to 
bring  the  advantages  of  the  state  into  use,  labor  to  be  protected 
and  guaranteed  by  a stable  and  reliable  government.  At  every 
point  there  are  evidences  of  Nicaragua  having  been  at  no  distant 
period  a populous  and  thriving  country.  Its  churches,  cities, 
aqueducts,  and  vats — its  great  plantations,  mouldering  to  decay, 
overgrown  with  trees  and  clustering  vines,  their  bounds  only  in- 


PRODUCTIONS  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


41 


dicated  by  the  imperishable  fence  of  cactus  standing  as  in  mock- 
ery of  the  idleness  and  misrule  which  have  reduced  it  to  its 
present  condition,  all  point  to  a day  when  even  the  enervating 
influences  of  the  climate  had  been  insufficient  to  produce  the  de- 
moralizing effects  now  witnessed  after  thirty  years  of  internal 
dissensions. 

The  coffee  and  cacao  raised  in  the  vicinity  of  Rivas  stand 
higher  in  the  market  than  that  of  any  other  in  the  state.  But 
little  is  exported,  the  greater  part  being  consumed  in  the  coun- 
try, where  it  is  a universal  article  of  food,  being  drunk  thicker 
than  chocolate  at  every  meal,  and  making  a pleasant  beverage 
called  tiste,  used  by  all  grades  of  society.  What  little  is  ex- 
ported is  often  sold  at  $20  the  quintal.  The  coffee,  though  not 
bearing  the  reputation  of  the  Costa  Rica  brands,  is  of  excellent 
quality,  and  is  a greater  article  of  export  than  the  cacao.  Its 
cultivation  has  hitherto  been  much  neglected,  not  only  from  the 
causes  above  enumerated,  but  from  the  difficulties  of  sending  it 
to  market,  there  having  been  but  little  communication  with  the 
outer  woi’ld  until  the  opening  of  the  Transit  Route.  Corn,  indi- 
go, rice,  and  tobacco  are  also  cultivated,  but  in  small  quantities 
of  late,  owing  to  the  blighting  effects  of  the  wars.  Sugar  of  an 
inferior  kind  is  raised,  the  cane  being  indigenous  to  the  country, 
and  unlike  that  of  the  West*  Indies  and  southern  United  States. 
The  rude  machinery  used  for  its  manufacture  prevents  its  be- 
coming an  important  article  of  export,  while  but  little  more  tliah 
what  is  required  for  home  consumption  is  produced.  The  man- 
ufacture of  aguardiente  is  the  principal  incentive  to  the  culture 
of  the  cane.  The  raising  of  cotton  of  a superior  kind  was  at 
one  time  a flourishing  branch  of  industry,  but  this,  like  the  oth- 
er articles  of  agriculture,  has  declined  before  the  breath  of  the 
universal  destroyer. 

An  intelligent  American  merchant,  who  had  resided  for  sev- 
eral years  in  various  parts  of  Nicaragua,  states  that  from  the 
estimates  he  has  made,  comparative  with  Cuba  and  other  W est 
India  islands,  Nicaragua  is  capable  of  producing  yearly  out  of 
what  land  is  now  cleared  ten  millions  of  bushels  of  corn,  twelve 
thousand  ceroons  of  indigo  (the  best  in  the  world),  untold  car- 
goes of  sugar,  rice,  starch,  rosewood,  dye-woods,  medicines,  and 
in  all  respects  to  effectually  rival  Cuba  itself.  Nature  has  done 


42 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


lier  part ; it  needs  hut  encouragement  and  enterprise  to  fulfill 
the  most  sanguine  predictions. 

Rivas  proper  contains  about  five  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is 
the  centre  of  traffic  for  this  department.  Its  streets  are  regu- 
larly laid  out,  paved,  and  of  uniform  width.  The  houses  are  of 
one  story,  with  tiled  roofs,  heavy  cedar  doors,  and  entered  from 
beneath  an  ample  porch,  also  roofed  with  tiles.  The  dwelling, 
if  of  any  pretension,  includes  a hollow  square,  th e,  patio  or  arena 
forming  the  yard,  into  which  the  doors  from  the  various  rooms 
open,  and  the  same  corridor  extending  around  the  interior.  This 
serves  as  a depository  for  goods,  provisions,  the  baggage  of  trav- 
elers, saddles,  and  all  the  common  articles  of  household  furniture. 
The  house  is  divided  into  the  family  parlor  or  reception-room, 
called  the  sala,  and  the  sleeping-rooms  of  the  family.  Furni- 
ture is  scantily  placed  around  the  room,  and  usually  consists  of 
a few  heavy,  straight-backed  chairs,  a clothes-press,  and  one  or 
two  small  tables. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival  we  were  early  astir,  and  hav- 
ing performed  our  ablutions  in  an  ancient  tub  in  the  patio,  we 
started  with  our  host  to  view  the  town.  During  our  stay  of  a 
week,  we  made  frequent  excursions  into  the  country,  examining 
the  haciendas  in  the  environs,  and  observing  the  mode  of  culti- 
vating the  cacao  and  cane.  A cacao  estate  contains  from  six 
hundred  to  five  thousand  acres  of  land.  That  of  Santa  Ursula, 
about  two  miles  from  town,  and  owned  by  Senor  La  Cayos,  is 
one  of  the  best  cultivated  in  the  vicinity,  and  has  about  two 
thousand  trees.  The  hacienda  of  Senor  Aigueyos  is  also  one 
of  the  largest  and  most  valuable  in  the  Department.  These,  as 
well  g,s  others  in  this  section  of  the  state,  are  fast  falling  to  de- 
cay. But  three  men  were  living  on.  the  estate,  and  the  sad  si- 
lence was  unbroken  save  by  the  gentle  rustling  of  the  madieras 
negros  and  platinos , which,  with  the  cactus,  form  a hedge  pro- 
tecting the  young  trees  until  they  have  gained  sufficient  strength 
to  withstand  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun.  The  mayor-domo,  or 
overseer,  met  us  at  the  entrance,  politely  invited  us  to  walk 
through  the  grounds,  cheerfully  answering  our  questions,  and, 
flattered  by  our  admiration,  soon  became  loquacious  in  describ- 
ing the  mode  of  culture. 

The  spot  designed  for  the  plantation  is  first  grubbed  and 


SANTA  URSULA. 


43 


cleared,  the  country  being  often  burned  over  for  the  purpose, 
and  the  ground  plowed  to  a depth  of  about  six  inches  with 
the  rude  implement  of  the  country.  The  young  trees  are  then 
set  out  in  squares  about  ten  feet  apart,  while  the  intervening 
spaces  are  occupied  with  plantain  and  coffee  trees  to  economize 
room.  The  madiera  negra  is  planted  at  regular  intervals,  whose 
leafy  boughs  effectually  protect  the  vegetation  beneath.  Very 
few  men  are  necessary  to  take  care  of  a plantation  no  larger 
than  that  of  Santa  Ursula,  the  greater  part  of  the  labor  being 
required  at  the  time  of  harvest.  The  leaves  are  allowed  to  re- 
main and  rot  upon  the  ground  where  they  fall ; the  roots  of  the 
trees,  however,  are  kept  carefully  cleaned,  and  each  day  the 
children  of  the  mayor-domo  or  of  the  laborers  pass  through  the 
plantation,  destroying  the  insects,  which,  if  allowed  to  remain, 
are  fatal  to  the  trees.  The  soil  throughout  this  estate,  as  indeed 
is  the  case  in  most  sections  of  lower  Nicaragua,  is  a dark,  rich 
mould,  requiring,  in  its  extreme  prolific  qualities,  the  constant  use 
of  the  grub-hoe  to  prevent  the  weeds,  which  grow  with  rank  lux- 
uriance, from  overrunning  the  hacienda. 

From  three  to  four  years  are  required  for  the  young  trees  to 
commence  yielding  fruit,  after  which  they  are  said  to  produce 
for  half  a century.  There  are  no  estates,  however,  of  that  age, 
from  which  to  judge  of  the  correctness  of  this  statement.  It 
requires  but  a few  years  after  the  commencement  of  the  hacien- 
da for  the  whole  estate  to  be  firmly  and  beautifully  inclosed 
with  a hedge  of  cactus  and  plantain,  often  twenty  feet  in  height, 
and  impenetrable  as  the  thickest  jungle. 

Nicaragua  alone  is  capable  of  producing  cacao  enough  to  sup- 
ply the  North  American  continent,  through  the  efforts  of  well- 
directed  industry  sustained  by  an  enlightened  government.  The 
trees,  as  we  saw  them,  had  already  yielded  their  fruit,  but  we 
observed  the  buds,  blossoms,  and  fruit  upon  many  of  them. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  quiet  beauty  of  one  of  these  estates. 
Far  as  the  eye  could  reach  appeared  leafy  vistas  fading  in  the 
distance,  the  view  bounded  by  shady  masses  of  verdure.  The 
ground  was  perfectly  level,  thickly  carpeted  with  dried  leaves 
beaten  flat  to  the  earth  by  the  rains,  through  which  thousands 
of  delicate  green  sprigs  and  pretty  blossoms  were  springing  and 
loading  the  air  with  grateful  odors.  The  bright  red  berry  of 


44 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  coffee-tree,  mingling  with  the  golden  hues  of  the  cacao  and 
the  clustering  fruit  of  the  plantain,  orange,  and  lime,  offered  an 
agreeable  contrast  to  the  deep  emerald  of  the  foliage.  Over- 
head, amid  the  leaves  of  the  sheltering  polo  negro , fluttered 
flocks  of  parrots,  hastening  with  noisy  chatter  from  tree  to 
tree,  while  at  intervals  the  harsh  scream  of  the  macaw  broke 
through  the  silence,  his  brilliant  plumage  just  visible  from  the 
topmost  branch  of  a distant  guanacaste.  The  only  indication 
of  human  presence  was  the  voice  of  our  cicerone , as  he  pointed 
out  some  curious  shrub,  explaining  its  properties,  or  directed 
our  attention  to  the  luxuriance  of  the  gaudy  tropical  flowers. 
Here,  indeed,  seemed  the  region  of  eternal  bloom,  where,  wild 
and  unattended,  the  rarest  plants  and  richest  flowers  cast  abroad 
their  fragrance  and  load  the  air  with  sweets.  Peaceful  Santa 
Ursula ! it  will  be  many  years  ere  thy  quiet,  sleepy  beauty  can 
fade  from  my  heart ! 

At  the  entrance  of  the  estate,  we  stopped  on  our  return  to  chat 
with  a pretty-faced  and  rather  tidily-dressed  girl,  the  daughter 
of  the  owner,  who  invited  us  into  the  old  adobe  house.  As  we 
entered,  half  a dozen  fierce  dogs,  aroused  by  our  unusual  cos- 
tume, flew  out  of  the  corridor,  but  returned  skulking  to  the  steps 
at  the  rebuke  of  their  mistress.  A smiling,  simple  Indian  girl, 
the  servant  of  our  lady  friend,  was  leisurely  sewing  upon  some 
fancy  article  of  dress  for  an  approaching  fiesta.  She  raised  a 
pair  of  pretty  dark  eyes  toward  us  as  we  approached,  but  quick- 
ly resumed  her  work,  and  to  an  occasional  question  I put  to  her 
only  looked  at  her  lady  and  laughed.  Unlike  most  of  the  wom- 
en of  the  lower  classes  I had  seen,  she  wore  shoes  and  stock- 
ings— articles  of  luxury  to  which  she  was  evidently  unused,  from 
the  clumsiness  of  her  walk  as  she  arose  to  bring  us  a bunch  of 
bananas.  Nearly  all  the  women  of  Rivas  wear  cheap  necklaces, 
rings,  and  ear-ornaments,  purchased  of  the  itinerant  traders,  who 
have  become  familiar  to  all  southern  Nicaragua  since  the  open- 
ing of  the  Transit  Route. 

Neither  the  mayor-domo  nor  the  women  knew  the  extent  of 
the  hacienda,  but  thought  it  might  be  half  a league  square.  No 
admeasurements  are  taken  in  Nicaragua,  the  distances  being 
calculated  by  caballerias  or  horseback-rides. 

While  talking  here,  we  saw  for  the  first  time  the  oropendola, 


A DANGEROUS  VISITOR. 


45 


a beautiful  bird  about  the  size  of  the  robin,  with  black  and  red 
body,  and  yellow  wings  and  tail ; he  is  a fine  singer,  and  is  fre- 
quently caught  and  caged  on  that  account.  Here  we  took  our 
first  drink  of  tiste,  a beverage  composed  of  pounded  cacao,  sugar, 
and  jpanola , or  pounded  parched  corn.  It  is  made  very  sweet, 
nearly  of  the  consistency  of  gruel,  which  it  somewhat  resembles, 
and  is  really  a delicious  drink. 

Swinging  lazily  in  the  hammock  proffered  us  by  the  senorita, 
and  listening  to  her  story  of  the  Revolution  and  its  blighting  ef- 
fects upon  the  industry  of  the  country,  an  hour  passed  pleasant- 
ly away.  The  gentle  sea-breeze  stirred  the  leafy  branches,  and 
passed  gratefully  through  the  wide  corridor.  “ Son  ruinados 
todas  las  fiestas  del  jpais  /”  said  our  little  hostess,  as  she  glanced 
mechanically  into  a looking-glass  hanging  near  by,  and  specu- 
lated upon  former  days,  when  every  other  week  was  a feast-day, 
in  which  all  the  charms  of  bright  eyes  and  red  lips  might  be 
brought  into  play  in  the  light  bolero  or  merry  fandango.  Tru- 
ly the  happy  days  of  Nicaragua  seemed  gone,  and  the  country, 
once  a dreamy  paradise  of  pleasure  and  lazy  enjoyment,  given 
up  to  the  hand  of  the  destroyer. 

After  bidding  adieu  to  our  new  acquaintance  we  turned  to- 
ward the  town,  and  were  passing  the  entrance  to  a small,  half- 
ruined  hacienda,  when  the  old  duena  beckoned  us  to  ride  inside. 
We  observed  a group  gathered  around  some  object  upon  the 
ground,  which  we  soon  discovered  to  be  a boa,  just  killed  in  the 
act  of  swallowing  a guatusa,  a little  ground  animal  between  the 
hedgehog  and  squirrel,  and  whose  cries  had  attracted  the  crowd 
to  the  spot.  The  creature  had  its  victim  half  swallowed  when 
killed,  the  head  of  the  little  animal  protruding  from  its  mouth. 

One  of  the  women  said  it  was  fortunate  to  have  killed  the  ser- 
pent, for  it  would  one  day  have  destroyed  some  of  her  children. 
I asked  her  if  such  a circumstance  had  ever  occurred,  to  which 
the  whole  group  screamed  in  the  affirmative,  and  interrupted 
each  other  in  the  garrulous  recounting  of  instances  where,  in  the 
more  retired  haciendas,  babes  had  been  seized  and  killed  by  boas. 
The  story,  however,  needs  confirmation  from  a more  reliable 
source.  This  snake  measured  fourteen  feet  in  length,  and  near- 
ly a foot  in  circumference  at  the  largest  part.  They  are  said  to 
attain  a much  larger  size. 


46 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


On  our  return  to  Rivas  we  found  the  little  cuartel  in  a state 
of  intense  excitement.  A courier  had  arrived  with  the  alarming 
intelligence  that  the  Chamorro  troops,  two  hundred  strong,  were 
near  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and  preparing  for  attack.  The 
little  drum  of  the  garrison  was  beating  valorously  to  arms,  and 
a general  burnishing  up  of  muskets  going  on.  This  proved  to 
be  a false  alarm,  and  quiet  was  soon  restored ; but  we  had  op- 
portunity to  observe  the  amount  of  confidence  our  American 
resident  friends  placed  in  the  means  of  defense  or  the  faith  of 
the  enemy.  Dr.  Cole  already  had  his  trunks  packed,  mules 
saddled,  and  his  family  prepared  for  instant  flight  toward  San 
Juan  del  Sur,  should  the  opposite  party  make  their  appearance. 
Several  executions  had  taken  place  recently,  in  which  the  pris- 
oners, being  made  to  kneel  down  in  the  Plaza,  were  summarily 
shot  through  the  heart.  It  was  not  a time  to  trust  to  the  mer- 
cy of  men  made  frantic  by  opposition  and  defeat,  and  thirsting 
for  the  blood  of  all  Americans. 

In  the  midst  of  the  turmoil  created  by  the  cry  of  “ el  ene- 
migo  /”  a single  horseman  dashed  into  the  city,  mounted  on  a 
spirited  charger,  with  all  the  jingling  accoutrements  so  coveted 
by  the  Spanish  caballero.  He  spurred  up  to  where  we  stood 
admiring  his  equestrianism,  reining  in  his  steed  so  as  to  throw 
a shower  of  sand  and  dust  at  our  feet,  and  evidently  cha- 
grined that  we  remained  unstartled  by  the  dangerous  proximity 
of  his  horse’s  heels.  This  was  the  celebrated  Jose  Bermudas, 
afterward  killed  in  one  of  the  bloody  battles  of  the  Revolution, 
and  known  as  the  boldest  rider  and  fiercest  fighting  man  in  the 
Department.  Large,  expressive  black  eyes,  coarse,  long  hair,  a 
lithe  form,  and  devil-may-care  look  and  style  of  dress,  set  off  his 
really  graceful  riding  to  great  advantage. 

He  had  now  returned  from  an  observation  tour  on  his  own  ac- 
count, and  dismounted  from  his  reeking  horse  just  as  the  sky 
became  overcast,  and  a sudden  thunder-storm  burst  over  the 
city.  The  streets  were  running  streams  in  a short  time,  and 
the  whole  town,  save  a solitary  donkey  feeding  on  the  Plaza, 
fled  for  shelter.  Bermudas  affected  to  despise  the  petty  fight- 
ing of  his  countrymen,  and  often  referred  with  awe  to  “ las 
grandes  battalias  de  Mejico ” as  the  ne  plus  ultra  of  warlike 
annals.  The  thermometer,  during  our  stay  at  Rivas,  stood 


WOMEN  OF  RIVAS. 


47 


nearly  as  follows : at  6 A.M.,  82°  ; at  12  M.,  98° ; at  6 P.M., 
88°.  The  temperature  seemed  very  little  altered  by  the  rains 
in  the  afternoon.  A very  line  view  of  a portion  of  Lake  Nic- 
aragua and  Ometepe  is  obtained  from  the  church  towers  of 
Rivas. 

The  market-place  is  the  northern  and  western  sides  of  the 
grand  Plaza.  Here  are  displayed  for  sale  the  numerous  fruits 
of  the  country,  with  Chili  peppers,  articles  of  light  clothing, 
medicines,  and  trinkets.  The  goods,  placed  in  large,  flat  bas- 
kets on  the  pavement,  were  presided  over  by  women,  who  gazed 
curiously  at  us  as  we  passed  among  their  wares.  Supposing 
that,  as  foreigners,  we  could  not  speak  the  language,  they  ven- 
tured various  remarks  concerning  our  personal  appearance  and 
dress.  Mariano,  however,  answered  a very  fat  old  woman,  who 
laughed  at  his  narrow-brimmed  straw  hat,  when  the  whole  group 
broke  into  the  most  uproarious  mirth,  shouting,  11  JEs  hijo  del 
pais — habla  bien  el  Espanol  /”  and  immediately  commenced  a 
conversation  with  us,  in  which  they  inquired  the  object  of  our 
journey,  and  advised  us  by  no  means  to  continue  our  route 
through  the  country.  The  Chamorro  troops  had  possession  of 
the  road  to  Masaya,  and  no  mercy  would  be  shown  to  Ameri- 
cans. I have  always  found  the  women  of  the  lower  classes  in 
Central  America  simple,  kind-hearted,  and  hospitable,  generally 
performing  the  most  laborious  part  of  the  work,  and  never  tiring 
under  their  ceaseless  tasks.  They  are  truly  the  hewers  of  wood 
and  drawers  of  water.  They  listen  with  unaffected  wonder  to 
the  accounts  of  North  America  and  Europe  given  them  by  stran- 
gers, and  are  generally  ready  to  extend  such  hospitality  as  their 
means  admit. 

The  half-constructed  church,  “ La  Paroquia ,”  forming  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Plaza,  has  been  brought  to  its  present  state 
of  completion  by  the  pious  contributions  of  the  women,  who  are 
always  ready  to  respond  with  their  limited  means  to  the  never- 
failing  demands  of  the  priesthood.  The  church  has  been  four- 
teen years  in  process  of  construction,  and  at  this  time  resembles 
the  ruin  of  some  ancient  building.  Trees  of  ten  years’  growth 
stand  upon  the  walls,  and  are  displacing  the  masonry,  while  the 
roofless  interior  presents  an  impassable  mass  of  weeds  and  bri- 
ery bushes.  It  is  the  type  of  a decaying  country.  In  front  of 


48 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  church  are  several  considerable  piles  of  stones,  brought  there 
by  the  women  on  feast-days  for  building  material.  Still  faithful 
to  the  duties  of  religion,  they  are  perfectly  satisfied  to  be  within 
sound  of  the  church  bell’s  clangor,  and,  amid  the  turmoils  of 
revolutions  and  battles,  they  need  but  the  reflection  that  they 
have  contributed  their  weekly  stipend  to  the  holy  work  to  ban- 
ish all  thoughts  of  care. 

There  are  four  churches  in  Rivas,  in  all  of  which  mass  is  daily 
said  and  the  usual  Sunday  services  performed.  Excepting  the 
increased  tinsel  and  ceremonies,  the  rites  are  similar  to  those  of 
the  Catholic  church  elsewhere.  Most  of  the  worshipers  are 
women,  who  make  it  the  first  duty  of  the  morning  to  repair  to 
mass.  Kneeling  upon  the  stone  pavement,  with  faces  toward 
the  altar,  they  seem  motionless  as  statues,  while  the  monotonous 
voice  of  the  priest  chants  at  intervals,  accompanied  by  a few 
choristers  with  one  or  two  violins,  a rude  violoncello,  and  often 
a clarionet. 

One  of  the  padres,  a remarkable  old  man,  with  intelligent  face 
and  dignified  mien,  had  been  to  the  United  States  some  twenty 
years  before,  and,  returning,  brought  with  him  the  bust  of  his 
idol — Washington — which,  curiously  enough,  now  occupied  a 
niche  in  the  church  at  which  he  officiated,  standing  vis  a vis 
with  the  cowled  and  bearded  images  of  saints  and  martyrs. 

After  four  days  of  impatient  waiting  for  the  arrival  of  mules 
promised  us  by  our  ariero  from  Virgin  Bay,  the  lions  of  Rivas 
began  to  cloy  upon  our  tastes.  A small  degree  of  attention  and 
observation  suffices  to  possess  one  of  every  fact  of  interest  con- 
nected with  the  place.  Its  quiet  rural  scenery,  dead  streets, 
silent  churches,  and  listless  inhabitants,  afford  but  an  uninter- 
esting theme.  On  the  third  day  my  patience  began  to  exhaust 
itself,  despite  the  friendly  admonitions  of  my  friend  Dixon,  at 
San  Juan,  to  “keep  cool.”  The  monotony  of  the  life  became 
disgusting.  Day  after  day  I awaited  the  arrival  of  the  prom- 
ised mules,  and  finally  dispatched  a courier  to  Virgin  Bay  for 
them,  who  returned  on  the  same  evening  with  the  laconic  an- 
nouncement “ no  hay ” — there  are  none.  Messages  sent  to  San 
Jorge,  Obraje,  Potosi,  and  other  surrounding  places,  where  I 
heard  of  arieros  herding  their  mules,  were  equally  unsuccess- 
ful. In  fact,  the  custom  pursued  by  the  government  of  sum- 


A VISIT  TO  THE  COMMANDANTS. 


49 


marily  seizing  man  and  beast  for  the  purposes  of  the  war,  made 
every  mule-owner  fearful  of  exposing  liis  property. 

On  the  evening  of  the  fourth  day  I made  my  fifth  solemn 
engagement  with  natives  for  animals,  all  the  preceding  ones 
having  proved  futile,  the  parties  not  even  appearing  to  offer  an 
excuse  for  non-compliance  with  the  contract.  The  doctor  rec- 
ommended me  to  “ keep  cool,  and  not  fret I should  learn  more 
of  the  habits  of  the  people  before  I left  the  country.  The  fel- 
low with  whom  I now  engaged  promised,  with  such  an  air  of 
sincerity,  to  be  at  the  door  punctually  at  8 o’clock,  that  I could 
not  disbelieve  him.  The  doctor,  however,  laughed  at  my  idea 
of  starting  on  the  day  proposed,  and  the  sehora  stared  at  me  as 
a wonder  of  hurry  and  precipitation  when  I ordered  the  baggage 
packed  and  placed  in  a convenient  spot  for  loading.  The  pre- 
dictions of  my  host  were  too  true — I never  saw  my  man  again. 

I now  bethought  myself  of  making  application  to  Don  Buena- 
ventura Selva,  Commandante  Militar  of  the  Department,  and  a 
strong  Castellon  man.  Taking  my  friend  Davis  to  introduce 
me,  I proceeded  to  the  cuartel.  A barefooted  sentinel  stood  at 
the  doorway,  who  shouldered  his  musket  as  we  came  up,  in  def- 
erence to  a military  cap  which  the  doctor  had  insisted  upon  my 
wearing  to  enforce  our  demands,  observing  that  any  martial  in- 
signia would  do  more  to  insure  respect  than  a whole  Chester- 
field of  politeness. 

We  found  the  commandante  seated  in  a large,  straight-backed 
arm-chair,  in  company  with  several  official-looking  personages, 
all  smoking  cigarros,  while  two  men,  apparently  just  arrived 
from  a long  journey,  were  eating  tortillas  and  cheese  in  an  ad- 
joining room.  My  companion  introduced  me  bluntly  as  the 
bearer  of  dispatches  from  the  United  States  to  Don  Francisco 
Castellon ! an  assertion  I did  not  think  it  prudent  to  contradict 
at  the  time.  The  company  arose  at  the  announcement,  which 
was  made  with  great  formality,  and  the  habitual  politeness  of 
the  Spaniard  became  apparent.  The  news  from  California  was 
inquired  for,  and  the  subject  of  my  negotiations  delicately  hint- 
ed at,  but  it  was  a part  of  my  diplomacy  to  remain  silent  upon 
this  head.  Don  Buenaventura  blamed  me  for  not  calling  upon 
him  for  mules,  as  the  orders  of  government  were  to  forward  all 
public  persons  at  the  state’s  expense,  which  I afterward  learned 

D 


50 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


consisted  in  forcibly  detaining  the  first  animal  that  presented  it- 
self. Mules  were  promised  for  that  afternoon,  and  with  many 
obsequious  bows  and  the  exchange  of  cigarros  (an  emblem  of 
friendship)  we  departed.  “At  last,”  thought  I,  “the  long- 
wished-for  mules  are  forthcoming.  ” Toward  evening  we  called 
again,  lest  the  “ cares  of  state”  should  have  caused  our  com- 
mandante  to  forget  his  profuse  promises.  He  assured  us,  how- 
ever, that  our  mules  were  close  at  hand,  and  would  be  ready  as 
soon  as  our  baggage  was  prepared.  But  night  came,  and,  upon 
renewing  our  visit  at  daylight,  Senor  Buenaventura  had  left 
town  to  be  gone  all  day. 

This  disappointment  over,  we  applied  to  an  officer  near  by  to 
let  us  two  sorry-looking  beasts  feeding  upon  secate  in  the,  patio, 
which,  after  two  hours’  consideration,  he  agreed  to  do  at  an  ex- 
orbitant price.  It  was  too  late,  however,  to  effect  any  thing 
that  day,  and  we  retired  to  our  house  to  await  the  horn-  of  start- 
ing on  the  following  morning.  A night’s  rest  restored  our  tem- 
pers, and  we  early  dispatched  our  man  round  to  the  cuartel  for 
the  beasts.  After  an  hour’s  absence,  he  returned  with  the  not 
unexpected  announcement  “ no  hay  /”  I now  began  to  de- 
spair. It  appeared  that  neither  fair  promises  nor  money  could 
purchase  mules  in  Rivas,  nor  could  they  be  stolen  or  borrowed. 
But,  while  we  were  becoming  nearly  blasphemous  on  the  subject 
of  Nicaraguan  punctuality  or  the  want  of  it,  a muleteer  arrived 
from  Rivas,  on  his  way  to  Masaya,  with  several  cargoes  of  ca- 
cao and  three  saddle-mules.  A bargain  was  soon  struck,  and, 
though  not  willing  to  start  at  once,  which  would  have  proved 
an  anomaly  in  Central  American  habits,  we  got  fairly  away  by 
5 o’clock  P.M. 

It  being  noised  abroad  that  “ los  Americanos ” were  about 
starting,  our  party  was  joined  by  nearly  a dozen  natives,  who, 
as  we  now  found,  had  been  awaiting  the  benefit  of  our  escort 
and  company  on  the  road.  We  tarried  until  a heavy  thunder- 
storm had  passed,  and  then  mounting,  defiled  in  regular  order 
across  the  Plaza,  passed  the  barracks,  and  out  of  the  town,  Dr. 
Davis  leading  the  column,  and  looking  back  with  no  little  pride 
at  the  array  of  mounted  men  and  bristling  arms.  The  proces- 
sion, ludicrous  as  it  appeared  to  us,  with  its  shaggy,  long-eared 
mules,  and  the  mixed  costume  of  their  riders,  was,  nevertheless, 


DEPARTURE  FROM  RIVAS. 


51 


a formidable-looking  band,  and  a number  of  enthusiastic  ‘ ‘ vi- 
vas /”  attested  to  the  impression  we  made  as  we  left  the  town. 
Four  of  us  earned  rifles  and  revolvers,  and  the  remainder  either 
old  flint-lock  muskets  or  harmless  pistols — the  martial  display 
of  which,  added  to  the  respect  given  to  armed  Americans,  was 
deemed  of  sufficient  importance  to  prevent  attack  from  any  small 
body  of  the  enemy  likely  to  be  scouring  the  highway. 

A few  minutes’  ride  carried  us  out  of  the  town.  Opposite 
the  house  of  Senor  Hurtado  we  met  an  American  resident  riding 
furiously  into  Rivas,  who  advised  us  to  turn  back  and  await  the 
confirmation  of  the  news  of  the  approach  of  Chamorro’s  troops. 
The  roads  he  represented  as  next  to  impassable,  and  infested 
with  hostile  bodies  of  men.  But  a week  of  this  monotonous 
life  had  thoroughly  disgusted  me,  and,  anxious  to  press  on,  we 
determined  to  run  the  gauntlet  and  risk  the  chances.  The  es- 
tate opposite  to  which  we  stood  in  consultation  was  deserted 
save  by  a few  natives  left  in  charge  and  the  usual  pack  of  dogs. 
Pursuing  our  march,  we  crossed  the  River  Gonzales,  about  five 
miles  from  the  town,  and  at  6 o’clock  arrived  at  the  village  of 
Obraje,  where  it  was  deemed  prudent  to  pass  the  night.  As 
we  rode  up  to  the  little  cuartel,  the  commander  came  forth  to 
meet  us,  and  upon  learning  we  were  Americans  and  on  the  Cas- 
tellon  side,  ordered  one  of  his  men  to  bring  out  a jug  of  aguardi- 
ente, passing  the  liquor  around  to  the  group  in  turn.  The  sen- 
tinel, who,  on  our  appearance,  had  not  made  up  his  mind  as  to 
our  stripe,  actually  trembled  as  we  drew  up  in  front  of  the  ca- 
bilda , but,  seeing  the  liquor  brought  forth,  became  reassured  of 
our  friendly  disposition. 

At  the  invitation  of  a venerable  old  man,  who  offered  us  such 
entertainment  as  his  house  afforded  for  the  night,  we  dismount- 
ed, and,  sending  our  animals  to  a corral  near  by,  entered  the 
house,  where  the  senora  and  her  daughters  quietly  prepared  a 
smoking  supper  for  the  troop. 

While  we  were  unsaddling  the  mules,  the  bell  of  the  little 
church  struck  the  signal  for  oracion,  when,  in  an  instant,  every 
head  was  uncovered,  and  for  a few  minutes  a silence  fell  upon 
the  town  until  the  tinkling  monitor  led  off  with  a merry  peal, 
upon  which  the  previous  occupations  were  renewed.  From  the 
commander  of  the  post  to  the  meanest  inhabitant,  the  observance 


52 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


of  this  little  rite  seemed  an  habitual  duty  to  be  regarded  as  sa- 
cred. Months  afterward,  among  the  lonely  mountains  of  Hon- 
duras, when  this  ceremony  was  repeated  at  the  secluded  villages 
of  the  interior,  I always  remembered  this,  the  first  occasion  on 
which  I had  witnessed  it.  But  a moment  is  occupied,  no  duties 
are  neglected,  and  by  many  it  might  be  regarded  as  a symbol 
of  slavish  obedience  to  the  formalities  of  Catholicism  ; but  the 
act,  so  simple  in  itself,  so  primitive  in  its  character,  has  ever 
since  remained  pleasantly  impressed  on  my  mind,  as  an  evidence 
of  the  devout  tendencies  of  the  people. 

At  night  we  spread  our  blankets  around  the  corridor,  and 
under  a canopy  of  sky  thickly  studded  with  stars,  the  silver 
crescent  sinking  behind  the  deep  foliage  to  the  westward,  our 
party  was  soon  asleep,  one  of  the  number  keeping  guard ; 
though  the  precaution  seemed  hardly  necessary,  considering  the 
proximity  of  the  neighboring  sentinel. 

At  early  dawn  we  were  astir,  and  having  paid  our  old  enter- 
tainer, we  mounted,  and  at  six  o’clock  left  the  town,  bidding  a 
jovial  farewell  to  the  fat  commandante , and  hiring  a boy  to 
guide  us  through  a road  running  to  the  westward  of  the  caviino. 
real , which  we  learned  was  almost  impassable  with  mud.  Am 
tonio,  our  guide,  offered  his  services  to  Masaya  for  five  dollars ; 
and  though  we  took  his  assertion  '•'•hay  lodo  sehores  hasta  la 
cincha ” with  due  allowance,  still  it  seemed  better  to  proceed 
cautiously.  Accordingly,  we  left  the  usual  highway,  and,  fol- 
lowing our  bare-legged  conductor,  who  trotted  lightly  along  in 
advance,  were  quickly  buried  in  a dense  forest,  through  which 
the  path  ran  in  a zigzag  course,  adapting  itself  to  the  inequali- 
ties of  the  ground.  The  morning  was  delicious,  and  with  the 
cheery  notes  of  bright-winged  birds,  the  glimpses  of  clear  sky 
obtained  from  amid  the  lattice-work  of  graceful  limbs,  and  the 
fresh  and  invigorating  air  of  the  woods,  we  pushed  merrily  on, 
conversing  with  our  native  companions,  who  freely  expressed 
their  opinions  of  the  revolution.  Most  of  them  were  merchants 
— men,  more  than  others,  likely  to  feel  the  depressing  influence 
of  the  wretched  system  of  government  under  which  they  labor- 
ed, and  careless  of  any  change  through  which  a commercial  sta- 
bility might  be  reinstated. 

The  scenery  throughout  our  ride  of  about  eight  miles,  from 


LOS  CANDELEROS, 


53 


Obraje  to  a small  liacienda  called  Los  Candeleros,  was  of  the 
most  romantic  and  beautiful  description.  It  was  in  the  season 
of  the  heaviest  rains,  when  the  damp  mould,  steaming  with 
heat,  and  forcing  into  life  the  rank  vegetation  of  the  country, 
gave  birth  to  every  variety  of  vine  and  creeper,  forming  tangled 
webs  along  the  path,  or  climbing  the  stately  ceibas,  flashing 
with  its  superb  red  flower,  twined  their  rich  emerald  festoons 
among  the  tasseled  blossoms.  Twice  we  saw  groups  of  red 
monkeys  chasing  each  other  through  the  forest,  and  pursuing 
their  gambols  at  a dizzy  height ; now  swinging  with  wonderful 
precision  from  limb  to  limb,  or  hanging  above  our  path,  and 
scolding  with  ludicrous  earnestness  at  our  intrusion  upon  their 
domain.  Flocks  of  parrots  enlivened  the  woods  with  their 
screams,  and  the  occasional  harsh  cry  of  the  blue  heron  min- 
gled at  times  with  the  howl  of  the  mono  Colorado.  We  were 
just  in  the  vein  to  enjoy  to  the  utmost  the  freshness  and  wild 
beauty  of  the  scene,  while  each  new  and  strange  object  had  for 
us  all  the  charms  with  which  the  reader’s  imagination  first  rev- 
els in  thb  florid  descriptions  of  tropical  life  and  scenery. 

At  noon  we  were  at  Los  Candeleros,  a secluded  spot,  situ- 
ated about  midway  between  the  lake  and  ocean,  and  scarcely 
ever  visited  except  in  the  season  of  the  rains,  when  it  serves  as 
a sort  of  half-way  house  for  travelers  on  this  by-path  between 
Rivas  and  Nandyme.  Crossing  a shallow  creek,  pouring  vio- 
lently over  the  rocks  toward  the  Rio  Gonzales,  into  which  it 
empties,  we  came  suddenly  upon  a mule-train  under  the  direc- 
tion of  a muleteer  of  so  suspicious  a look  that  the  doctor,  much 
against  our  wishes,  stopped  him  and  demanded  to  see  his  pass- 
port. It  was  not,  however,  a time  to  demur ; rapine  and 
treachery  were  abroad,  and  the  man,  with  no  ceremony,  pro- 
duced his  papers,  which  were  rigidly  examined,  after  which  he 
was  suffered  to  pass.  Our  friend  offered  as  an  excuse  that  sup- 
plies of  powder  were  expected  to  be  smuggled  to  certain  ad- 
herents of  Chamorro  at  Rivas.  The  ariero , however,  seemed 
to  think  it  a matter  of  course  to  be  searched.  A few  rods  from 
the  creek,  and  up  a steep  declivity,  we  came  to  the  hacienda, 
said  once  to  have  been  a place  of  considerable  importance,  but 
now  displaying  only  a few  bush-huts,  in  one  of  which  we  found 
two  natives,  who  started  up  at  our  arrival,  evidently  alarmed  at 


54 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


our  appearance  and  numbers.  They  were  soon  reassured,  and 
in  reply  to  our  inquiries  for  beef  or  food  of  any  kind,  pointed  to 
a thicket  near  by,  in  which  they  said  a deer  could  be  easily 
shot. 

We  left  the  doctor  to  superintend  the  rebuilding  of  a fire,  the 
embers  of  which  were  still  smoking  within  the  hut,  and  a spright- 
ly little  old  native,  named  Cebellos,  offering  to  accompany  me, 
we  sallied  out  into  the  valley  beneath,  as  much  to  obtain  a 
draft  of  the  pure  water  of  the  brook  as  with  any  hope  of  meet- 
ing game.  We  had  scarcely  penetrated  twenty  rods,  when  the 
peculiar  hissing  noise  used  in  Central  America  to  attract  atten- 
tion caused  us  to  look  back,  and  we  espied  one  of  the  natives, 
who  had  silently  followed  us,  pointing  down  the  stream.  I fol- 
lowed the  direction  indicated,  and  my  heart  jumped  with  excite- 
ment at  seeing  a beautiful  buck  standing  beneath  a projecting 
rock,  with  his  fore  legs  in  the  water,  his  head  and  ears  erect, 
nostrils  dilated,  and  a pair  of  great  black  eyes  staring  intently 
at  our  movements ; beyond  was  a doe,  equally  interested  in 
watching  us,  the  two  not  fifty  yards  off.  In  another  moment 
I had  my  rifle  leveled.  The  unsuspecting  innocence  with 
which  these  usually  shy  creatures  awaited  the  discharge  caused 
me  to  almost  falter  in  the  murderous  design.  The  scruple  was 
but  momentary.  My  two  native  companions  wrinkled  up  their 
faces  in  anticipation,  and  in  another  moment,  as  the  woods  re- 
echoed the  crack  of  the  rifle,  my  glorious  prize  sprang  forward, 
and,  with  a single  bound,  reached  the  crag,  stopped,  struggled 
upward,  and  finally  fell  heavily  into  the  bed  of  the  creek.  Ce- 
bellos uttered  a triumphant  yell,  and  rushed  toward  the  victim, 
while  the  doe  disappeared  like  a flash  into  the  woods.  The  na- 
tive deliberately  drew  his  knife,  and,  cutting  the  throat  of  the 
animal,  dissected  enough  for  present  use,  and,  backing  it  up  to 
the  camp,  presently  set  before  us  a delicious  steak,  the  cutting 
of  which  I took  care  to  direct ; for  the  gente  del  pais  beyond  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  Transit  Route,  where  their  contact 
with  foreigners  has  somewhat  civilized  them,  have  little  idea  of 
carving,  cutting  off  huge,  unwieldy  lumps  of  beef  or  venison, 
which  they  throw  upon  the  coals,  and  eat  half  cooked,  and 
charred  on  the  outside  to  a crisp. 

I presented  the  occupants  of  the  hut  with  such  of  the  meat  as 


A SUDDEN  STOP. 


55 


was  not  required  by  our  party,  and  at  3 o’clock  we  resumed  the 
journey  toward  Nandyme,  followed  by  the  hearty  “ adios ” of  the 
natives,  whose  good  opinion  of  Americans  had  been  greatly  in- 
creased by  sundry  potations  from  the  doctor’s  aguardiente  fount- 
ain, which,  as  I thought,  held  out  like  the  widow’s  cruse. 

The  heat  had  now  grown  intense.  The  woods,  becoming 
copses  somewhat  like  the  oak  openings  of  our  W estern  country, 
disclosed  green  patches  of  grass,  in  which  we  found  growing  the 
mansanito , or  wild  apple  of  the  country.  We  also  passed  the 
ruins  of  an  indigo  estate,  the  vats  and  rude  machinery  hidden 
from  view  by  vines  and  shrubbery,  which,  in  this  climate,  how- 
ever often  the  hand  of  industry  may  clear  them  away,  reproduce 
themselves,  as  if  by  magic,  and  quickly  overrun  the  neglected 
plantation.  From  a small  eminence  on  our  route  we  obtained 
an  extensive  view  of  the  valley  of  Nandyme,  glowing  in  the 
sunlight,  and  the  scene  bounded  by  the  undulating  woodlands 
around  the  volcano  of  Masaya. 

At  6 o’clock  we  arrived  at  the  River  Ochomogo,  evidently 
dry  in  the  summer,  and  having  now,  after  the  late  copious  rains, 
but  three  feet  of  water.  Our  path  led  directly  out  of  the  forest 
into  the  main  road,  and,  crossing  the  stream,  we  observed  a sol- 
itary horseman  spur  away  toward  Nandyme.  We  rode  up  to 
the  hacienda,  consisting  of  one  large  adobe  house  recently  built, 
and  used  as  a residence  for  vaqueros , this  being  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal cattle  estates  in  southern  Nicaragua.  Two  young  men 
gazed  earnestly  at  us  through  the  partly-closed  window,  and 
then,  issuing  from  the  building,  ran  hastily  toward  the  doctor, 
to  whom  they  whispered  the  ominous  words, 

“ Cuidado , el  enemigo  /” 

“ Adonde  f”  asked  the  doctor. 

“ Agui  no  mas ,”  was  the  whispered  response ; and  then  the 
doctor,  recognizing  in  the  speaker  a former  patient  whose  life 
he  had  saved  by  the  performance  of  a surgical  operation,  ascer- 
tained that  los  Chamoristos , consisting  of  eighty  men,  had  left 
Nandyme  the  day  before,  and  were  now  on  their  way  to  Rivas. 
The  horseman  who  had  so  unceremoniously  left  on  seeing  us 
was  one  of  the  scouts  who  had  been  ordered  to  watch  for  our 
appearance.  Not  anticipating  our  taking  the  upper  road,  we 
had  surprised  him.  The  brother  of  our  informant  lay  inside, 


56 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


grievously  wounded  with  a bayonet  stab  received  the  day  be- 
fore at  Nandyme.  “ Vuelvete  ! vuelvete  /”  urged  our  friend, 
as  he  surveyed  the  party : “ Mataron  d todos  los  Americanos  /” 

Here  we  were  in  a pretty  plight.  But  we  had  chosen  the 
chance,  and  now  to  return  by  the  uiain  road,  with  the  mud  up 
to  our  horses’  bellies,  was  terrible  to  contemplate.  There  was 
but  short  time  for  consultation ; a bright-eyed  little  chico  now 
made  his  appearance  in  great  terror  from  the  upper  road,  shout- 
ing to  his  companions  of  the  house, 

“ Yienen  ! vienen  /”  (they  are  coming!)  “ Cuidado /”  (look 
out!)  and  dodged  into  the  thicket. 

Believing  discretion  to  be  the  better  part  of  valor,  at  least  in 
this  instance,  we  rode  into  the  woods,  and,  getting  about  half  a 
mile  off  the  road,  sent  back  our  guide  by  a circuitous  path  to 
observe  their  movements.  In  ten  minutes  he  returned.  It  ap- 
peared there  were  seventy  or  eighty  of  them,  nearly  all  drunk, 
and  the  officer  closely  questioning  the  boys  as  to  the  passage 
of  a party  of  Americans  with  dispatches  for  Castellon.  The 
whole  truth  then  flashed  upon  me ; notice  had  been  sent  to  Gran- 
ada  from  Rivas  of  our  intended  journey  to  Leon,  and  hence  the 
anxiety  to  secure  us.  To  hazard  a fight  with  our  few  natives 
against  such  odds  was  impossible,  and  to  boldly  face  the  matter 
out  would  at  least  have  insured  our  arrest  and  detention  at 
Granada,  where  an  accidental  shot  might  put  us  out  of  trouble, 
as  had  already  occurred  to  a foreigner  carried  thither  in  a similar 
way,  to  say  nothing  of  the  letters  from  the  Californian  author- 
ities acknowledging  the  Castellon  cause,  directed  to  the  Presi- 
dent, and,  lastly,  my  belt  of  doubloons,  the  loss  of  which  would 
have  been  an  equally  emphatic  terminus  to  the  enterprise. 

We  held  a hurried  consultation,  and  finding  our  American 
resident  friends  determined  not  to  place  their  already  forfeited 
lives  in  the  power  of  the  enemy,  we  turned  back  toward  Rivas, 
audibly  cursing  the  Chamoristos , and  resolving  to  await  the  ar- 
rival of  a vessel  at  San  Juan  del  Sur  for  Realejo,  should  it  cost 
us  a month’s  time. 

Antonio  was  sent  back  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  troops, 
and,  continuing  our  slow  tramp  through  the  mud,  we  halted 
about  11  o’clock  at  the  hacienda  of  San  Francisco,  where  we 
found  our  guide  had  already  arrived  by  a westerly  path.  The 


RETURN  TO  RIVAS. 


57 


place  was  inhabited  by  women,  who  showed  us  no  particular 
good-will,  though  they  offered  us  shelter  there  for  the  night. 
All  were  busily  engaged  in  making  tortillas  before  a bright  fire, 
the  more  comfortable  from  the  pitiless  rain  which  now  poured 
down  from  a leaden  sky.  The  hacienda— -the  property  of  a 
leading  Chamorro  man — had  long  been  known  as  the  head- 
quarters of  that  party  along  the  road,  and  the  doctor  viewed  the 
bread-making  with  great  suspicion,  as  evidence  of  the  expect- 
ed arrival  of  a number  of  visitors.  Who  these  were  likely  to 
be,  the  troops  in  our  rear  seemed  to  indicate ; so,  after  a hasty 
supper  of  tortillas , we  resumed  the  march,  passing  the  same 
night  through  Pueblo  Nuevo  and  Obraje,  and  arriving  at  Rivas 
in  the  midst  of  a soaking  rain  an  hour  before  daylight.  We 
had  previously  dispatched  Antonio  to  the  town  to  warn  the  lit- 
tle garrison,  and  already,  through  the  darkness  and  mist,  could 
be  seen,  as  we  re-entered  the  town,  squads  of  troops  arriving 
hastily  from  San  Jorge,  Virgin  Bay,  Obraje,  and  Potosi.  Dr. 
Cole  had  his  mules  packed  for  flight,  and,  to  judge  from  the  sad- 
dled horses  standing  around  the  Plaza,  a general  stampede  was 
meditated. 

We  had  ridden  nearly  twenty-four  hours,  not  at  the  easy 
hand-gallop  which,  with  its  cradle-like  motion,  a comfortable 
saddle,  and  even  road,  create  the  essence  of  hearty  pleasure  and 
exhilaration,  but  painfully  plodding  through  a miry  waste,  with- 
out food,  drenched  with  rain,  and  our  limbs  aching  with  the  mo- 
notonous motion  of  a mule-walk,  one  of  the  most  tiresome  1 
can  call  to  memory. 

It  was  with  no  ordinary  satisfaction  that  we  threw  ourselves 
upon  the  floor  of  the  doctor’s  house  and  fell  into  a heavy  slum- 
ber, from  which  rest  not  even  the  skipping  regiments  of  fleas, 
nor  the  lusty  chanting  of  game-cocks,  who  commenced  their  ma- 
tutinal hymns  just  as  we  arrived,  could  awaken  us. 


58 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


CHAPTER  III. 

A Visit  to  the  Commandante  Militar. — Good-by  to  Rivas. — San  Juan  del  Sur 
again. — The  “ Tres  Amigos.” — At  Sea  on  the  Coast  of  Nicaragua. — Fellow- 
passengers. — Morning. — Port  of  Realejo. — The  Town. — Convent  of  San  Fran- 
cisco.— Hidden  Treasures.  — Ride  to  Chinandega. — Arrival.  — Reception  at 
house  of  Senor  Montealegre. — Novel  method  of  Taxation. — Thunder-storm. — 
A Morning  Bath. — Foreign  Prejudices. — A Nicaraguan  Elysium. 

The  sun  was  streaming  full  through  the  heavily-barred  win- 
dow when  C aroused  us  with  the  report  of  his  pistol.  The 

events  of  the  night,  with  the  dull  sense  of  aching  bones,  and 
drowsy  ideas  of  dark,  muddy  roads  and  hostile  “ greasers,” 
coupled  with  the  sudden  discharge  of  the  weapon,  made  us  im- 
agine a surprise  from  the  enemy.  All  sprang  to  their  feet,  but 
found  that  our  friend  had  only  been  amusing  himself  at  our  ex- 
pense. Refreshed  with  our  short  nap,  we  repaired  to  the  cuar- 
tel,  where  we  found  the  commandante  with  his  usual  placid 
smile.  He  gave  us  a sinister  look  as  we  entered,  too  plainly 
betokening  the  source  from  whence  the  information  had  been 
forwarded  of  our  intended  journey  to  Leon.  I was  on  the  point 
of  waiving  formalities  and  charging  home  the  treachery  which 
had  nearly  resulted  in  our  capture,  when  Doctor  Davis,  foaming 
like  a wild  boar,  entered  the  apartment.  Enraged  as  we  all 
were,  we  gladly  made  room  for  the  superior  volubility  of  our 
friend,  whose  gigantic  proportions  and  known  ferocity  of  char- 
acter had  already  made  him  an  object  of  fear  and  slavish  admi- 
ration among  the  natives.  For  five  minutes  did  the  wrathful 
doctor  rage  about  the  room,  and  it  was  curious  to  observe  the 
wonder-stricken  faces  of  the  guard  peering  into  the  place,  and 
listening  with  respectful  awe  to  the  deep-mouthed  maledictions 
of  our  champion.  It  was  in  vain  that  the  wily  commandante 
fawned  and  proffered  cigarros  ; his  perfidy  was  too  apparent. 
The  last  remark  made  by  the  doctor  as  we  left  the  room  was 
accompanied  with  a significant  motion  across  his  throat,  to  which 
the  commandante  made  no  reply  but  by  a grim  and  sickly  smile. 

Following  the  example  of  the  population,  and  this  time  hav- 


THE  “ TEES  AMIGOS. 


59 


ing  our  ariero  on  the  hip  by  refusing  to  pay  him  until  he  placed 
our  baggage  in  San  Juan,  we  left  the  town  on  the  following 
morning,  and,  arriving  at  Virgin  Bay,  returned  the  dispatches 
confided  to  us  by  Judge  Cushing,  who  quietly  remarked,  as  I 
briefly  recounted  the  events  of  the  journey,  that  he  had  counted 
upon  seeing  us  return  two  days  sooner  than  we  did.  At  noon 
the  next  day  we  were  again  in  sight  of  San  Juan  del  Sur,  and 
our  little  party  uttered  an  exclamation  of  delight  as,  winding 
out  of  the  woods,  we  saw  a fine,  taunt-looking  schooner  at  anchor 
in  the  Bay.  We  now  found  that  Mr.  Matsell,  with  his  friends 
the  Dardanos,  had  pursued  their  original  design  of  going  to  Re- 
alejo,  a boat  from  Salinas  Bay  having  fortunately  touched  at  San 
Juan  on  her  way  up  the  coast. 

Three  days  in  San  Juan,  without  even  the  temporary  excite- 
ment of  the  transit  of  passengers  to  enliven  its  dull  monotony, 
caused  us  to  hail  with  pleasure  the  animated  announcement 
from  Mr.  Craigmiles,  her  supercargo,  that  we  must  go  at  once 
on  board.  We  were  not  long,  with  the  assistance  of  a few 
reals,  in  getting  our  baggage  on  board,  and,  much  to  our  sur- 
prise, we  found  the  crew  already  heaving  up  the  anchor — an  in- 
stance of  punctuality  and  dispatch  we  had  little  expected,  and 
which  we  hailed  as  a new  era  in  the  dilatory  affairs  of  our  jour- 
ney. A fresh  land-breeze  filled  the  sails,  and  in  an  hour  the 
town  of  San  Juan,  with  its  slowly-constructing  mole,  primitive 
huts,  and  the  uninviting  white  and  red  hotels  and  saloons,  be- 
came a faint  line  in  the  horizon. 

The  name  of  our  vessel  was  the  Tres  Amigos,  a stout  old 
schooner  of  about  100  tons,  whose  many  voyages  along  the  Cen- 
tral American  coast  had  made  her,  as  the  supercargo  asserted, 
“ her  own  best  pilot,  entering  the  usual  ports  by  instinct.”  Cap- 
tain San  Antonio,  a native  of  Costa  Rica,  disdained  the  use  of 
compass  or  quadrant,  while  his  coffee-colored  fingers  were  guilt- 
less of  ever  having  traced  a course  on  chart,  or  held  in  their 
greasy  clutch  the  useless  dividers.  He  ran  his  vessel,  as  he  in- 
formed me  was  customary  in  this  trade,  entirely  by  the  head- 
lands and  stars,  these  latter  celestial  luminaries,  during  the  great- 
er part  of  the  year,  studding  the  calm,  unclouded  heavens,  and 
guiding  the  mariner,  in  the  absence  of  the  moon,  with  unerring 
accuracy.  The  rote,  or  noise  of  the  surf,  is  the  usual  scapegoat 


60 


EXPLORATIONS  IN'  HONDURAS. 


on  dark  nights.  Some  forty  passengers  were  on  hoard,  two  of 
them— Senores  Mateo  Saens  and  Antonio  Martines  — young 
priests  of  Leon,  who  now,  since  the  death  of  Don  Jorge  Viteri, 
Bishop  of  Leon,  were  returning  from  the  ceremonies  of  ordina- 
tion performed  for  them  at  San  Jose,  the  capital  of  Costa  Rica, 
by  the  bishop  Anselmo  Llorente.  The  remainder  were  Guate- 
maltecos  returning  home  from  Costa  Rica. 

Our  passage,  owing  to  light  winds  and  calms,  occupied  two 
days  and  nights.  The  little  vessel,  crowded  from  stem  to  stern, 
seemed,  with  the  incessant  converse  of  the  natives,  more  like  an 
overgrown  hen-coop  than  a “ packet.”  At  night,  the  few  berths 
in  the  cabin  being  pre-empted  by  the  burliest  of  them,  the  re- 
mainder spread  their  ponchos  upon  the  deck,  a far  pleasanter 
resting-place  than  the  contracted  quarters  below,  hot  with  the 
vapor  of  foul  breaths,  and  the  little  air  struggling  for  admittance 
down  the  companion-way  expelled  by  the  closely-shut  hatch. 

With  the  idle  sails  hanging  straight  above  our  heads,  each 
lay  and  watched  the  mast-heads  describe  erratic  courses  among 
the  stars  until  lulled  to  sleep  by  the  monotonous  flapping.  No 
sound  was  heard  but  the  regular  breathing  of  the  slumberers. 
Even  the  helmsman,  yielding  to  the  drowsy  inclination,  loosened 
his  rigid  grasp  upon  the  spokes,  and,  leaning  over  the  wheel, 
dreamed  away  the  silent  hours.  The  night  was  absolutely 
calm  ; new  and  strange  constellations  glittered  along  the  heav- 
ens ; the  north  star,  the  centre  of  their  revolving  motion,  now 
close  to  the  horizon,  and  dimly  defined  in  the  lustrous  mist, 
hanging  like  transparent  amber  above  the  ocean.  Far  inland 
through  the  night  came  the  sullen  roar  of  the  surf  breaking  on 
the  beach,  while  the  distant  outline  of  mountains  loomed  up  like 
spectral  giants  through  the  darkness.  One  of  the  priests,  una- 
ble to  sleep,  passed  me,  and,  observing  my  eyes  open,  proffered 
me  a cigar,  which  I lit  by  the  glowing  one  he  held  between  his 
fingers.  Formalities  thus  broken,  he  was  shortly  recounting 
his  adventures  in  Guatemala,  and  in  return  I gave  him  a de- 
scription of  the  great  inventions  of  the  day  now  in  common  use 
in  the  United  States.  His  ideas,  however,  were  Guatemalan 
and  English,  and  believing  that  but  one  country  in  the  world 
was  in  advance  of  his  own  in  the  arts  of  progress,  I ceased  my 
attempt.  Like  most  Guatemalans,  whose  connection  with  the 


THE  PORT  OF  REALEJO. 


61 


English  has  prejudiced  them  against  every  thing  American,  my 
companion  had  been  taught  to  regard  the  United  States  as  a 
thriving  country,  and  commendably  ambitious  to  assume  a lead- 
ing position  among  nations,  but  as  yet  in  a comparatively  colo- 
nial position  with  England.  The  names  of  our  most  illustrious 
men  after  the  glorious  phalanx  of  the  Revolution  he  was  entire- 
ly unacquainted  with,  and  admitted  that,  beside  the  few  histor- 
ical works  he  had  seen  on  the  United  States,  his  ideas  of  the 
Northern  Republic  had  been  gleaned  from  the  Mexican  publica- 
tions, which  regularly  found  their  way  to  Guatemala.  He  was 
one  of  the  few  educated  men  I encountered  in  the  country,  and 
displayed  an  anxiety  for  information,  with  an  unassuming  gen- 
tlemanly demeanor,  very  engaging  after  the  uncultivated  boors 
I had  met  in  Nicaragua.  My  clerical  friend  had  with  him  a 
copy  of  Chesterfield’s  Letters,  translated  into  Spanish,  and  pub- 
lished in  Mexico.  These  he  seemed  to  value  very  highly,  and 
assured  me  he  was  attempting  to  mould  his  views  and  actions 
by  these  models. 

As  we  awoke  on  the  morning  of  the  second  day,  the  rainbow 
hues  of  the  dawn  were  shooting  athwart  the  sea  from  among 
the  frowning  gulleys  and  peaks  of  El  Viejo.  A gentle  breeze 
from  seaward  just  distended  the  dew-dampened  sails,  the  schoon- 
er cutting  her  way  leisurely  toward  an  indentation  in  the  coast 
which  our  laconic  skipper  called  “Punta  Caca.”  A long  cloud 
of  smoke  from  Monotombo,  wreathed  into  feathery,  fantastic  fig- 
ures, stretched  with  wonderful  distinctness  against  the  glimmer- 
ing horizon,  while  the  expanse  of  foliage,  extending  toward  us 
from  the  foot  of  El  Viejo,  sparkling  in  the  splendors  of  the  morn- 
ing, seemed  to  invite  us  to  enter  their  delicious  shades.  Along 
the  shore,  a line  of  foam  showed  where  the  restless  surf  spent 
its  fury,  and  north  and  south,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
lofty  volcanic  cones,  blue  as  indigo,  lifted  their  peaks  into  the 
clouds,  and  exposed  their  rugged  edges  against  the  flashing  sky. 
It  was  a sight  which  has  ineflfaceably  impressed  itself  on  my 
memory,  and  even  the  natives,  used  to  the  gorgeous  beauty  of 
Central  American  scenery,  aroused  themselves  from  their  habit- 
ual stupor,  and  drawled  out  “ que  galcm  la  manana  /” 

With  a freshening  breeze  we  passed  the  island  of  Cordon, 
forming  the  entrance,  and  in  a few  moments  let  go  the  anchor  in 


62 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ENTRANCE  TO  THE  PORT  OP  REALEJO. 

the  harbor  of  Realejo,  the  solitary  Pacific  port  of  Nicaragua, 
and  rendered  memorable  in  history  by  the  exploits  of  the  buc- 
caneers of  the  seventeenth  century. 

During  the  summer  of  1851,  with  the  establishment  of  the 
Nicaraguan  route  through  Granada  and  Realejo,  it  was  supposed 
this  port  would  resume  its  ancient  position  in  the  commercial 
world.  The  most  insane  speculations  in  land  and  the  grandest 
plans  of  improvement  were  projected.  With  the  withdrawal  of 
the  steamers,  Realejo  subsided  into  the  state  of  listless  inactiv- 
ity from  which  the  contact  with  Americans  had  galvanized  it, 
and,  excepting  the  remembrance  of  the  stirring  days  of  the 
“ Transit  Route,”  with  the  attendant  filching  of  dimes  from  los 
Yankees , the  temporary  prosperity  of  the  place  has  departed. 

The  possibility  of  its  becoming  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the 
inter-oceanic  canal,  which  for  centuries  has  been  the  drowsy 
theme  of  speculation  for  every  maritime  government  in  Chris- 
tendom, gives  the  harbor  of  Realejo  yet  some  little  value  in  the 
eyes  of  the  world.  But  since  the  rejection,  by  the  English  cap- 
italists, of  Colonel  Child’s  survey,  in  which  the  canal  was  pro- 
posed of  such  dimensions  as  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  a 
modern  clipper  ship  crossing  the  continent,  attention  seems,  by 


. PASSAGE  TO  THE  TOWN. 


63 


common  consent,  to  have  been  withdrawn  from  the  great  project. 
The  perfection  to  which  Lieutenant  Maury  has  brought  the  art 
of  navigation  has  also  demonstrated  the  fact  that  the  voyage  to 
India  would  not  be  shortened  by  the  canal.  A project,  for  the 
control  of  which  the  nations  of  Europe  have  eyed  the  Central 
American  isthmus  with  the  keenest  jealousy,  and  for  which  the 
commercial  rivalry  of  England  and  the  United  States  had  nearly 
brought  them  into  belligerent  attitudes,  has  been  abandoned  as 
impracticable,  or,  at  least,  as  either  uncalled  for  by  the  require- 
ments of  commerce,  or,  under  the  estimates  of  the  great  capital- 
its,  as  an  unremunerative  speculation. 

The  distance  from  the  port  to  the  town  of  Realejo  is  about 
two  leagues,  the  accommodations  for  the  passage  consisting  of  a 
diminutive  dingy,  owned  by  two  youngsters,  who,  placing  our 
baggage  in  a large  boat,  to  follow  more  leisurely,  plied  them- 
selves to  their  task,  and  half  an  hour  of  rowing  took  us  so  far 
beyond  the  first  bend  of  the  river  as  to  shut  out  the  ocean,  and 
render  the  roar  of  its  mighty  surf  but  a confused  murmur  from 
among  the  trees.  The  tide  was  fast  flowing  as  we  shot  through 
long  and  silent  reaches  of  water,  reflecting  in  its  glassy  surface 
the  banks  of  jungle  skirting  the  river  on  either  side. 

About  three  miles  up  we  passed  the  ruins  of  a small  fort,  on 
the  southern  bank,  said  to  have  been  erected  by  the  buccaneers 
in  some  of  their  descents  upon  the  country.  Its  piles  of  stone, 
among  which,  and  the  masses  of  weeds  and  grass  covering  them, 
the  tide  ebbs  and  flows,  brought  vividly  to  mind  the  terrific 
fights  and  ruthless  cruelties  practiced  by  these  hardy  sea-rovers, 
and  the  feeble  race  upon  whom  they  directed  their  attacks.  Up 
these  waters  the  old  marauding  leader  guided  his  bearded  band, 
and,  entering  Realejo,  sacked  the  city,  then  containing  fifteen 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  departed  with  scarcely  the  loss  of  a 
man. 

Within  a mile  of  Realejo  an  artificial  channel  has  been  cut  by 
the  Padre  Remijia  Salazar,  whose  many  acts  of  benevolence 
have  endeared  him  to  all  classes,  and  rendered  him  almost  an 
object  of  worship  among  them.  Our  boat  scraped  the  bottom 
as  we  pushed  through,  and  a few  minutes  afterward,  rounding  a 
point  of  dense  woodland,  apparently  well  adapted  to  the  culti- 
vation of  all  the  tropical  productions,  we  ran  alongside  a small, 


64 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


LANDING  AT  THE  TOUT  OF  KEALEJO. 


half-decayed  wharf  extending  into  the  middle  of  the  creek,  and 
forming  the  landing-place  to  the  town. 

We  sprang  ashore,  and,  thanking  our  stars  that  we  had 
reached  the  northern  part  of  the  state  so  easily,  made  our  way 
to  a hotel  kept  by  a blustering  Englishman,  who  welcomed  us 
to  his  house  with  the  easy  familiarity  characterizing  those  who 
deal  particularly  with  seamen.  Our  baggage  lagged  behind  for 
inspection  at  the  custom-house,  the  force  at  that  establishment 
and  at  the  cuartel  adjoining  it  amounting  to  two  lean  negroes 
and  a smart-looking  native  officer,  whose  polite  salutation  as  we 
approached,  added  to  a dash  of  regimental  finery  about  his 
neatly-fitting  pantaloons  and  jacket,  made  us  regard  him  with 
more  than  ordinary  favor. 

Realejo,  as  it  is,  may  be  seen  to  satiety  in  an  hour.  We  re- 
mained there  just  long  enough  to  chat  with  the  Englishman, 
who  knew  nothing  about  the  history  of  the  place  anterior  to  the 
establishment  of  the  Transit  Route,  and  evidently  supposed  it 
to  have  been  founded  at  that  epoch  ! and  to  enter  into  a conver- 
sation with  the  solitary  padre  of  the  place,  who,  delighted  at  the 
prospect  of  an  audience,  commenced  a detailed  narration  of  the 
founding  of  the  city  in  the  sixteenth  century,  the  former  glory 


CONVENT  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


65 


of  its  convent  and  its  buildings,  the  incursions  of  th z filibusters, 
and  the  gradual  decay  of  the  place  under  the  Spanish  rule. 
The  old  native  stoutly  affirmed  that  a large  treasure  was  buried 
among  the  ruins  of  the  convent  of  San  Francisco,  a part  of 
which  had  been  found,  and  that  Don  Julio  Balcke,  a German 
gentleman  with  whom  I afterward  became  acquainted,  had  pur- 
chased the  land  upon  which  the  convent  stood  for  $4000,  in- 
tending, when  labor  was  cheaper,  to  have  the  ground  upturned 
in  quest  of  the  doubloons.  Mr.  Balcke  confirmed  the  statement 
subsequently,  and  assured  me  that  sums  of  money  had  been 
found  in  and  around  the  ruins.  We  walked  leisurely  through 
them,  and  marked  the  quick  sinking  to  decay  which,  in  this 
climate,  attends  works  of  human  labor.  Even  the  ponderous 
blocks  of  stone  in  the  tower-walls,  left  standing  by  the  destroy- 
ers, had  been  displaced  by  the  invading  jungle,  which,  attain- 
ing in  this  prolific  soil  a rapidity  of  growth  unknown  in  colder 
climates,  from  shrubs,  become,  in  a few  years,  great  trees,  dis- 
jointing and  throwing  down  the  solid  masonry  in  their  resist- 
less progress.  But  a few  years  will  suffice  for  these  silent 
agents  to  overgrow  even  the  remnants  yet  existing  to  mark  the 
former  wealth  and  splendor  of  the  San  Franciscan  convent. 
Realejo  now  contains  three  thousand  inhabitants,  and  the  only 
building  making  the  slightest  claim  to  architectural  pretensions 
is  the  church  of  San  Benito.  It  has  some  commercial  import- 
ance, being  the  sea-port  of  Leon,  Chinandega,  and  the  great  ag- 
ricultural district  included  between  the  foot-hills  of  the  Segovia 
and  Chontales  mountains  and  the  Pacific — the  prolific  country 
known  as  the  great  plain  of  Leon.  No  statistics  have  been 
kept  at  Realejo  during  the  last  three  years  of  revolutionary 
wars,  so  that  the  exports  and  imports  of  the  place  are  mere 
matters  of  conjecture. 

I had  been  accompanied  from  California  by  the  son  of  a gen- 
tleman of  Chinandega,  Don  Mariano  Montealegre.  His  arrival 
from  el  Norte  was  hailed  throughout  Realejo  with  the  vocifer- 
ous congratulations  of  his  many  acquaintances,  and,  introducing 

S — e C and  myself  to  the  groups  who  clustered  around 

him,  we  soon  found  ourselves  objects  of  special  attention. 

Horses  were  procured  for  Don  Mariano  and  myself,  my  two 
companions  remaining  at  Realejo  to  stay  by  the  baggage,  which 

E 


66 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


could  not  be  transported  until  the  following  day ; so,  bidding  my 
first  temporary  adieu  to  these  friends  since  our  departure  togeth- 
er from  San  Francisco,  I accepted  the  invitation  of  Don  Maria- 
no, and,  splendidly  mounted  on  one  of  his  father’s  numerous 
horses,  galloped  with  him  out  of  the  place  by  the  road  to  Clii- 
nandega. 

It  required  but  a minute’s  ride  to  carry  us  beyond  the  pre- 
cincts of  the  dirty  little  town  into  a country  beautiful  beyond 
any  I had  ever  known,  and  at  every  turn  disclosing  fresh  views 
of  rural  magnificence  which,  much  as  I had  been  prepared  for 
the  scene,  took  me  entirely  by  surprise.  Every  other  tree  bore 
a fruit,  a flower,  or  was  a valuable  dye-wood ; almost  every 
shrub  was  medicinal.  Here  the  catholicon  spreads  its  roots ; 
the  ceiba,  the  guapinol,  palm,  tamarind,  orange,  plantain,  banana, 
fig,  and  dozens  of  others  familiar  to  the  eye,  display  their  fruits 
among  the  leaves  by  the  wayside,  and,  hanging  in  tempting  clus- 
ters from  the  branches,  invite  the  traveler  to  taste  their  luscious 
sweets.  The  cactus,  that  in  less  genial  climes  raises  its  puny 
head  three  feet  after  a course  of  hot-house  and  tender  nursing, 
grows  here  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet,  without  a branch,  and 
thick  as  a man’s  body.  Fences  for  miles  are  built  of  this  green 
mass,  in  many  places  mixed  with  the  lighter  shade  of  the  cas- 
tor-oil plant,  the  clustering  beans  at  a distance  resembling 
bunches  of  unripe  grapes.  These  fences  are  actually  the  most 
durable  in  the  world,  becoming  every  year  more  impenetrable, 
and  springing  up  in  endless  quantities. 

The  road,  leading  through  a level  country,  wound  romantical- 
ly through  such  scenes  as  these,  while  the  dust,  of  which  all  vis- 
itors here  complain  in  the  summer  months,  was  now  laid  by  the 
constant  rains,  though  the  roads  were  not  injured  by  them,  ca- 
ratones  or  ox-wagons  passing  from  the  port  to  Realej  o through- 
out the  year.  The  soil  is  a black  loam,  from  five  to  eight  feet 
deep,  and  producing  two  crops  annually.  Many  products  grow 
spontaneously.  The  eye  is  constantly  feasted  with  the  most 
charming  prospects  and  romantic  views,  most  of  them  termina- 
ting with  the  rich,  velvety  green  of  some  volcano,  sloping  gradu- 
ally down  from  the  base  of  its  perfect  cone  into  the  broad  level 
of  the  plain. 

The  few  persons  we  met  on  the  road  either  stopped  to  con- 


A GALLOP  INTO  CHINANDEGA. 


67 


gratulate  Don  Mariano  on  his  return,  or,  if  strangers  to  him,  ob- 
sequiously exchanged  salutations  as  they  passed.  The  habitual 
politeness  of  the  Central  American  has  been  frequently  noticed. 
It  is  a feature  distinguishing  them  from  the  off-hand,  business- 
like carelessness  of  the  Anglo-Saxon.  This  is  particularly  the 
case  among  the  lower  classes,  who,  with  all  their  ultra  republic- 
an notions,  have  not  been  able  to  conquer  an  almost  servile  def- 
erence to  apparent  superiority  in  dress,  appearance,  or  manner. 
Not  to  receive  a respectful,  if  not  hearty  obeisance  from  a stran- 
ger when  traveling  is  the  exception  to  the  rule. 

Our  ride  through  the  fairy-like  scenes  of  the  Chinandega  road 
occupied  about  an  hour,  when  the  increased  number  of  houses 
and  barking  of  dogs  showed  that  we  were  in  the  immediate  sub- 
urbs of  a town  ; and  while  a few  heavy  drops  of  rain,  assisted  by 
the  muttered  thunders  around  El  Viejo,  warned  us  of  the  ap- 
proaching chubasco , we  spurred  into  the  paved  streets  of  Chinan- 
dega, and,  passing  groups  of  Don  Mariano’s  acquaintances,  rode 
to  the  family  mansion,  forming  the  corner  of  two  wide,  well- 
paved  streets,  and  near  the  principal  church  of  the  place.  The 
town  stands  upon  a plain  about  three  miles  from  the  slope  of 
El  Viejo,  and  has  been  for  some  years  one  of  the  most  prosper- 
ous places  of  Central  America,  not  having,  like  Leon,  suffered 
from  the  destruction  of  its  houses  and  public  buildings  in  the 
Revolution.  We  were  here  in  the  month  of  September,  which, 
being  near  the  closing  period  of  the  rains,  is  reckoned  the  pleas- 
antest in  the  year. 

We  dismounted  at  the  door,  from  which  several  servants 
came  forward  to  receive  our  horses,  while  from  the  spacious  sola 
within  a crowd  of  relatives  rushed  out  with  the  enthusiastic 
greetings  peculiar  to  the  warm  blood  of  the  Spanish  American, 
and  dragged  Mariano  into  the  house,  loading  him  with  caresses. 

In  a few  words  my  companion  explained  to  his  mother  and 
sisters  that  the  stranger  was  his  friend,  when  I was  formally  in- 
troduced, and  the  house  placed  “at  my  disposition,”  the  usual 
method  of  recommending  one  to  make  himself  at  home.  The 
residence  of  Senor  Montealegre  is  actually  the  largest  and  most 
costly  in  the  town,  though  not  so  well  furnished  with  the  mod- 
ern improvements  as  that  of  Mr.  Thomas  Manning,  British  con- 
sul at  Leon.  The  senor  himself  arrived  shortly  after,  and  re- 


68 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


newed  the  hospitable  welcome  extended  by  the  mistress  of  the 
house.  The  private  parlor,  or  sitting-room,  into  which  we  re- 
tired, seemed  to  contain  the  most  valuable  articles  of  the  family. 
Here  was  the  library  of  religious  and  historical  works,  most  of 
them  published  and  bound  in  Barcelona.  A Yankee  clock,  which 
no  hand  but  that  of  the  master  of  the  house  might  venture  to 
wind,  stood  upon  a table,  which  also  contained  the  writing  ma- 
terials and  business  papers,  this  room  also  being  used  as  the 
office  for  the  transaction  of  the  business  of  the  several  hacien- 
das of  which  Senor  Montealegre  is  the  owner.  Numerous  col- 
ored engravings  hung  around  the  neatly-papered  walls,  and  near 
the  door  was  suspended  a representation  of  Rubens’s  Crucifix- 
ion in  life-size,  and  which  my  host  said  was  executed  in  Guate- 
mala ; the  coloring  was  very  creditable,  and  would  have  created 
remark  in  any  part  of  the  world.  Across  the  room  was  sus- 
pended the  universal  hammock  of  pita,  fabricated  of  stained 
cords  artfully  interwoven,  and  forming  the  arm-chair  or  loung- 
ing-place,  to  which  the  stranger  is  courteously  invited  as  a mark 
of  respect.  The  tidily-swept  floors,  and  the  neatness  displayed 
throughout  the  establishment,  betrayed  the  hand  of  woman, 
without  whose  aid  the  best  ordered  household  will  fall  into  dis- 
order. 

Senor  Montealegre  at  this  time  was  counted  the  wealthiest 
man  in  Chinandega,  and  during  our  stay  at  his  house  we  had 
an  opportunity  of  observing  the  arbitrary  method  pursued  by 
the  fluctuating  government  of  the  state  to  raise  money  in  sup- 
port of  the  revolutions.  The  day  after  our  arrival,  the  house 
was  surrounded  by  the  troops  of  the  Revolutionists,  who  fero- 
ciously excluded  the  family  from  holding  any  intercourse  with 
the  outer  world  until  the  sum  of  five  thousand  dollars  was  con- 
tributed toward  supporting  the  new  administration.  On  the 
same  evening  the  sum  was  paid,  and  I was  assured  that  this  was 
the  fourth  successful  attempt  of  the  kind  since  the  commence- 
ment of  the  war.  Several  other  wealthy  families  had  been  as- 
sessed according  to  their  supposed  means,  and  all  looked  forward 
with  gloomy  forebodings  to  the  future.  My  host  believed  that 
the  present  revolution  would  completely  ruin  him.  Only  the 
property  of  foreign  residents  was  respected,  or  that  placed  under 
the  protection  of  the  French,  English,  or  American  consular 


DON  MARIANO’S  FAMILY. 


69 


flags.  For  this  reason,  Don  Mariano  had  been  dispatched  to 
San  Francisco,  with  the  view  of  alienating  himself  to  the  United 
States,  and  thus  preserving  a tithe  of  the  family  possessions. 
Even  this  expedient  had  failed,  and  there  seemed  no  hope  but  in 
the  success  of  either  party,  which  would  put  an  end  for  the  time 
to  the  war. 

With  such  unjust  and  summary  methods  of  taxation,  there  is 
little  to  wonder  at  in  the  constant  fear  entertained  by  the  people 
of  the  chieftains,  political  and  military,  whose  intrigues  and  dis- 
sensions have  deluged  the  land  with  blood,  and  destroyed  all 
semblance  of  industrial  pursuits.  Nevertheless,  the  old  gentle- 
man was  a sturdy  and  uncompromising  Liberal,  whose  recollec- 
tion dated  back  to  the  quiet  days  of  the  Spanish  rule,  when, 
under  the  viceroyalty  of  Guatemala,  the  nation  had  at  least  en- 
joyed commercial  security,  and  feared  no  enemies  but  those  who 
threatened  the  mother  country  beyond  the  limits  of  Central 
America.  He  referred  to  the  days  of  Morazan,  whom  he  remem- 
bered with  enthusiastic  pleasure,  and  his  fine  features  lighted 
up  as  he  recalled  the  stirring  wars  of  1839-40.  Senor  Monte- 
alegre  was  the  first  veritable  specimen  of  a Central  American 
hacendador  that  I had  met  in  the  country. 

At  night  the  family  collected,  according  to  custom,  in  the  libra- 
ry, where  I recounted  to  the  old  man  the  news  from  California 
and  of  the  European  war,  of  which  he  had  not  heard  for  some 
months.  A cautiously-worded  remark  led  me  to  believe  that 
my  host  was  strongly  in  favor  of  the  Russian  cause,  though  he 
seemed  yet  to  entertain  the  habitual  respect,  if  not  fear,  of  the 
English  name,  prompting  him  to  confine  to  a hint  any  opinions 
he  might  entertain  against  them.  This,  however,  may  have  been 
his  habitual  manner  of  expressing  himself.  A room  was  finally 
shown  me,  containing  a bed  with  the  luxury  of  clean  sheets. 
As  I straightened  myself  out  with  that  sensation  of  extreme 
comfort  they  only  can  appreciate  who  have  long  been  deprived 
of  them,  I wondered  when  I should  again  enjoy  the  same  pleas- 
ure ; for  all  agreed  that,  after  leaving  the  well-settled  district  of 
Nicaragua,  I might  bid  adieu  to  the  common  comforts  of  life.  I 
found  eventually,  however,  that  the  Central  Americans  are  gen- 
erally quite  ignorant  of  the  country  beyond  their  native  state. 
I had  hardly  composed  myself  to  sleep,  after  blowing  out  my 


70 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


candle,  when  the  muttering  of  distant  thunder  and  the  blue 
gleam  of  lightning  through  the  chinks  of  the  door  announced 
the  approach  of  one  of  the  sudden  violent  storms  which  mark 
the  breaking  up  of  the  rainy  season.  Soon  the  pattering  of 
warning  drops  was  followed  by  a deluge  of  water,  producing  a 
deafening  noise  upon  the  roof,  while  the  broad  lightning-sheets, 
illumining  the  sky  from  horizon  to  zenith,  seemed  to  hiss  with 
fiery  tongues  through  the  grated  windows.  The  sudden  blaze 
was  succeeded  by  the  blackest  darkness,  and  followed  by  such 
tremendous  peals  of  thunder  as  seemed  to  be  tumbling  about 
our  ears  the  peaks  of  the  surrounding  volcanoes.  I felt  certain 
that  some  building  near  by  had  been  struck  with  lightning, 
which  on  the  following  day  proved  to  be  the  case ; this,  how- 
ever, is  of  frequent  occurrence. 

The  Nicaraguans  are  generally  early  to  bed  and  early  risers, 
a habit  to  be  applauded,  as  it  enables  them  to  enjoy  the  delight- 
ful cool  of  the  morning,  when  the  greater  part  of  the  day’s  house- 
hold labor  is  performed.  When  I awoke  I found  Mariano  mov- 
ing silently  about  my  room,  and,  perceiving  that  I was  awake,  he 
suggested  a bath  in  a brook  near  by,  which  he  said  he  had  used 
from  his  infancy.  The  crowing  of  cocks,  barking  of  dogs,  add- 
ed to  the  loud  voice  of  the  sehora,  should  have  aroused  me  an 
hour  before  ; but,  springing  out  of  bed,  and  throwing  on  a few 
clothes,  I joined  my  good-natured  friend,  and  together  we  issued 
from  the  house.  A more  glorious  morning  never  graced  the 
earth.  The  streets,  washed  perfectly  clean  with  the  deluge  of 
the  night,  seemed  as  if  recently  swept  by  the  hand  of  some  tidy 
housewife.  The  garden  foliage,  peeping  in  verdant  luxuriance 
over  the  high  walls,  was  yet  dripping  with  millions  of  sparkling 
rain-drops,  glittering  in  the  slant  rays  of  the  sun.  The  air  was 
fresh  and  invigorating,  and  so  cool  that  I could  scarcely  believe 
myself  between  the  tropics.  To  the  northward,  and  apparently 
rising  in  silent  majesty  over  the  verdure-clad  plain  around  us, 
towered  the  volcano  of  El  Yiejo,  its  lofty  head  reared  against  a 
cloudless  sky,  and  glowing  with  the  variety  of  shades  of  green 
packed  in  dense  masses  along  its  steep  declivities.  The  town 
was  already  astir,  and  a few  minutes’  brisk  walking  brought  us 
to  the  spring,  from  time  immemorial  the  bathing-place  of  the 
Chinandeguenses. 


FOREIGN  SCRUPLES." 


71 


A difficulty,  however,  presented  itself,  which,  to  my  unsophis- 
ticated mind,  seemed  an  insuperable  one.  The  stream,  spreading 
itself  out  into  a deep,  clear  basin,  some  twelve  yards  wide,  again 
formed  a washing  brook  below,  and  among  the  rocks  were  sta- 
tioned a crowd  o ilavadoras,  old  and  young,  who  seemed  to  have 
possession  of  the  premises.  I hinted  my  objection  to  Mariano, 
but  with  a quiet  smile  he  proceeded  to  undress  and  plunge  in, 
followed  by  half  a dozen  new-comers,  with  as  much  unconcern 
as  they  would  have  exhibited  in  the  midst  of  a forest.  The  pro- 
ceeding created  no  sensation  among  the  soap  and  water  congre- 
gation below,  and  at  last,  yielding  to  the  temptation  of  cool, 
clear  water,  I was  soon  breasting  the  tiny  waves  created  by  the 
current.  Modesty  in  these  respects  meets  with  little  apprecia- 
tion in  Central  America,  though  the  refusal  of  a stranger  to  bathe 
after  the  custom  of  the  country  is  generally  regarded  as  a queer 
fashion  he  has  brought  with  him  from  abroad,  and  which  time 
will  gradually  show  him  the  folly  of. 

On  our  return,  we  found  the  table  spread  for  breakfast  in  the 
great  corridor.  The  repast  consisted  of  hot  tortillas , biscuit, 
butter,  and  cheese,  stewed  meat,  beans,  cocoa,  and  milk.  A 
graceful  little  Indian  girl,  with  large  hazel  eyes,  and  hands  and 
arms  which  the  most  aristocratic  lady  might  have  envied,  wait- 
ed upon  us,  and  nimbly  performed  the  bidding  of  Mariano,  who, 
I found,  was  master  of  the  establishment,  being  the  oldest  son. 
The  bare  feet  of  our  dusky  Hebe  pattered  over  the  tiled  pave- 
ment, and,  when  breakfast  was  over,  she  brought  us  a basket  of 
delicious  fruits  and  a bundle  of  cigarros.  I threw  myself  back 
in  the  great  hammock  with  a sensation  of  absolute  enjoyment, 
and,  gazing  out  into  the  dreamy  prospect  of  waving  green,  the 
view  bounded  by  the  blue  cone  of  some  distant  volcano,  or  the 
white  walls  of  a hacienda  half  hidden  in  its  own  prodigality  of 
verdure,  resigned  myself  to  the  fascination  of  the  hour,  content 
in  all  but  that  dear  ones  far  away  might  not  share  with  me  the 
matchless  beauties  of  the  scene. 


72 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Chinandega. — Churches. — Dwellings. — Female  Beauty. — Dress. — Smoking  Ci- 
garros. — Religion. — Ceremonies. — Amusements. — Evening  Paseo. — Night. — 
The  Tienda. — Trade. — Education. — Start  for  Leon. — The  Road. — Chichigal- 
pa. — Tiste. — Mr.  Manning. — Posultega.- — La  Posada. — A Nicaraguan  Belle. 
— Novel  method  of  Begging. — El  Aguacero. — Hacienda  de  Paciente. — Drunk- 
en Soldiers. — Las  Tortilleras. — Rio  Quisalhuague.  — Approach  to  Leon. — 
Bells. — Religious  Ceremony. — Dr.  Livingston. — Independent  Evening. 

Chinandega  is  counted  the  most  thriving  city  of  Nicaragua, 
and,  though  formerly  much  more  populous  than  at  present,  con- 
tained, at  the  time  of  my  visit,  about  twelve  thousand  inhabit- 
ants, the  number  of  women,  owing  to  causes  already  explained, 
predominating  as  four  to  one.  The  town  is  regularly  laid  out, 
the  streets  running  at  right  angles,  handsomely  paved,  and  form- 
ing a convex  surface,  the  gutter  or  water-course  being  in  the 
centre  of  the  street,  and  during  the  rainy  season  bearing  a lux- 
uriant growth  of  grass,  so  few  are  the  encroaching  footsteps. 
Its  early  importance,  to  judge  from  the  description  of  Central 
American  writers,  must  have  been  considerable.  It  now  con- 
tains five  churches — La  Paroquia,  Calvario,  San  Antonio,  San 
Lorenzo  (unfinished),  and  Guadalupe.  These  were  formerly 
richly  adorned,  and  are  said  to  have  contained  ornaments  of  im- 
mense value  ; but  the  incursions  of  the  buccaneers,  and  the  dev- 
astating revolutions  sweeping  over  the  country  since  1821,  have 
caused  their  removal,  either  by  violence  or  for  their  security. 
At  present,  the  churches  contain  nothing  beyond  worthless  tin- 
sel and  rudely-executed  paintings  upon  scriptural  subjects. 
These  edifices  are  of  adobe,  plastered  and  whitewashed  in  the 
usual  Spanish  style,  and  often  with  the  peculiar  rounded  dome 
betraying  the  Moorish  architecture.  The  floors  are  handsomely 
paved,  and  the  interiors  are  kept  neatly  painted  and  cleanly. 
Images  of  saints  and  angels,  gaudily  attired  to  impress  the  im- 
agination of  the  devout,  are  placed  in  the  niches.  I should 
think  the  quiet  and  solemnity  of  these  sanctuaries  well  calcula- 
ted to  inspire  devotional  thoughts.  They  are  usually  dark, 


HOUSES  AND  FURNITURE. 


73 


spacious  buildings,  echoing  the  footfall ; and  at  all  hours  of  the 
day  kneeling  figures  of  men  and  women  may  be  seen,  the  latter 
with  the  gaudy  mantilla  thrown  like  a cowl  over  the  head,  and 
the  former  generally  neatly  clad,  hat  in  hand,  sin  zapatos , and 
resting  upon  a handkerchief  spread  on  the  pavement.  All  dis- 
tinctions of  class  are  banished  in  the  Church,  and  the  shriveled, 
blear-eyed  beggar  kneels  in  close  proximity  to  the  pale  and  aris- 
tocratic senorita  of  the  best  blood  in  Chinandega.  The  city 
seems  to  have  suffered  less  from  the  frequent  wars  than  any 
other  in  the  state.  The  houses  are  seldom  of  more  than  one 
story,  not  so  much  because  of  the  fear  of  earthquakes  as  from 
the  superior  coolness  of  a low-built  residence,  the  dislike  of  ex- 
isting near  a roof,  and,  lastly — and  which  I believe  to  be  the  pre- 
vailing reason — because  their  antepasados,  or  ancestors,  lived  in 
houses  of  similar  architecture.  The  d wellings  do  not  differ  ma- 
terially from  those  of  Rivas,  but  are  usually  in  better  repair, 
larger,  and  of  handsomer  construction.  The  interior  is  furnish- 
ed scantily  with  rather  uncomfortable  angular  furniture,  placed 
about  the  room  as  though  against  the  wishes  of  the  occupants, 
and,  in  fact,  tables  are  not  in  use  for  other  purposes  than  to 
serve  the  family  repasts,  or — very  rarely — to  write  upon ; and 
among  the  ladies  I found  even  the  chair  only  a matter  of  con- 
ventionality to  be  used  in  company,  the  senorita  infinitely  pre- 
ferring a seat  on  the  floor  or  a comfortable  lounge  in  the  family 
hammock,  which  is  suspended  across  the  room  in  the  dwellings 
of  all  classes.  Religious  pictures,  a bed— -sometimes  a foreign 
portable  iron  one — and  commonly  a number  of  Mexican  trunks, 
elaborately  ornamented  with  brass  nails  and  the  owners’  initials, 
complete  the  furniture  of  each  room.  The  houses,  however,  are 
admirably  adapted  to  the  climate,  and  the  pedestrian  enters 
their  dark,  cool  shelter  with  an  inward  “ gracias  a Dios  P'  from 
the  broiling  heat  of  the  street,  augmented  by  the  universal  glist- 
ening white  walls,  reflecting  the  rays  of  the  sun  with  painful 
force. 

The  dwelling  usually  forms  two  or  more  sides  of  a hollow 
square  called  the  patio , commonly  communicating  with  the 
street  by  a paved  side  entrance  capable  of  admitting  a horse- 
man or  caraton  and  oxen ; and  here  the  produce  from  the  haci- 
enda, or  any  articles  or  goods  whatever  belonging  to  the  family, 


74 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


are  bestowed.  The  corridor,  extending  around  the  interior  of 
the  house,  is  generally  raised  a few  feet  above  the  yard,  and  is 
paved  with  large  flag-stones.  The  houses,  walls,  and  all  build- 
ings attached,  are  roofed  with  tiles,  in  all  respects  better  adapt- 
ed to  the  climate  than  shingles  or  slate.  A store-room  and 
other  household  apartments  lead  off  from  the  corridor.  Many 
of  the  buildings  have  large  flower-gardens  attached,  separated 
from  the  street  by  a lofty  wall,  and  crammed  with  the  greenest 
shrubbery,  among  which  may  be  always  noted  the  mango-tree 
in  blossom  or  loaded  with  fruit  the  entire  year,  their  dark  limbs 
creeping  among  and  supporting  the  load  of  leaves,  Avliile  at  the 
taper  ends  bunches  of  this  luscious  fruit  offer  themselves  to  the 
passer-by. 

Although  I was  disappointed  in  my  expectations  of  female 
beauty  among  the  Nicaraguans,  yet,  during  my  stay  in  Chinan- 
dega  and  Leon,  I met  very  many  instances  of  the  grace  and  ele- 
gance generally  attributed  to  the  Spanish  sehorita.  The  habit 
of  intermarrying  practiced  by  whites,  Indians,  mestizos,  and  even 
negroes,  has  done  much  to  deteriorate  female  beauty  in  Central 
America,  and  this  I found  to  be  particularly  the  case  in  Hon- 
duras ; but  throughout  that  republic,  as  well  as  in  Nicaragua,  I 
often  saw  faces  and  forms  which  would  have  created  “a  sensa- 
tion” in  the  most  elegant  assemblage.  The  amalgamation  has 
not  been  universal ; and  while  by  far  the  largest  number  are 
found  only  tinged  with  a dash  of  Indian  or  negro  blood,  the 
stranger  may  meet  at  every  hour  with  pure  Castilian  beauties, 
whose  fine  forms,  lady-like  manners,  black,  languishing  eyes, 
and  expressive  faces,  fully  warrant  the  encomiums  lavished  upon 
them.  The  features  are  almost,  without  exception,  good,  and 
where  there  has  been  no  mixture  of  races  in  the  ancestry,  even 
classic,  preserving  much  of  the  haughty,  distingue  air  of  the 
Castilian.  The  complexions,  always  pale  (a  rosy  New  England 
cheek  is  a phenomenon  only  known  from  hearsay),  are  of  that 
rich  and  classic  hue  generally  attractive  in  youth  when  accom- 
panied by  finely-chiseled  features,  but  turning  into  the  waxy  look 
in  advanced  years.  In  no  country  that  I have  visited  does  age 
follow  so  closely  upon  womanhood,  nor  in  any  do  the  charms 
of  youth  more  quickly  fade.  The  climate  leaves  none  of  the 
traces  of  healthy,  venerable  old  age ; and  with  few  exceptions  in 


LADIES  AND  THEIR  FASHIONS. 


75 


the  lowlands  of  Nicaragua,  to  be  old  is  to  be  ugly.  In  both 
sexes,  however,  I have  always  observed  among  all  classes  the 
traces  of  that  native  courtesy  and  grace  of  manner  always  aton- 
ing for  the  lack  of  personal  charms.  The  politeness  of  the  ed- 
ucated classes  amounts  to  formality,  and  in  the  more  secluded 
sections  of  Honduras  this  is  observed  to  such  a painful  degree 
as  to  become  almost  ridiculous.  The  young  men  are  generally 
reserved,  listless,  and  of  a sallow  complexion ; nearly  all  of  them 
are  of  slender  form,  and  dress  after  the  American  and  European 
fashion. 

Bright  colors  are  preferred  for  dresses  by  the  ladies,  and  at 
a fiesta,  or  on  Sunday  at  mass,  the  combination  of  rainbow 
hues,  regardless  of  taste,  would  create  a smile  in  a Northern 
belle.  The  shawls  are  particularly  gaudy.  But  the  effect  is 
not  unpleasing  in  a large  congregation,  with  a battery  of  fine 
features  and  flashing  eyes  as  a relief  to  the  gay  colors.  It  is  a 
mistaken  idea,  however,  that  the  Spanish  beauty  generally  af- 
fects finery.  Except  at  public  assemblages  she  dresses  in  black, 
as  an  offset  to  the  complexion,  and  the  studied  arrangement  of 
jet  ornaments  upon  the  arms  and  around  the  neck  betrays  an 
appreciation  of  the  effects  of  contrast.  Dulces , or  confectionery, 
made  from  the  sugar  of  the  country,  is  in  great  demand  among 
the  ladies,  who  eat  them  at  all  hours  of  the  day ; with  these, 
the  everlasting  abanico,  the  jjaseo  at  sunset,  and  an  evening  call, 
perhaps,  across  the  Plaza,  constitute  the  amusement,  if  not  the 
occupation,  of  the  Nicaraguan  lady,  unless  when  an  approaching 
funcion  urges  to  the  preparation  of  some  extra  finery.  I 
should  also  add  the  rolling  of  paper  cigars,  called  cigarros , in 
distinction  to  pur  os,  the  name  given  par  excellence  to  the  cigar 
proper.  These  are  smoked  every  where  and  upon  all  occasions. 
You  enter  the  house  of  a gentleman,  and  he  hastens  to  offer  you 
the  hammock  and  a cigarro.  It  is  held  between  the  lips  of  the 
padre  a moment  before  entering  the  church ; it  is  the  symbol 
of  friendship  extended  to  a new  acquaintance : a lady,  desirous 
of  doing  the  amiable  to  the  stranger,  proffers  him  a cigarro ; 
you  call  upon  the  president,  and,  before  entering  into  the  com- 
pliments of  the  day,  he  selects  a cigarro  from  his  tabaquera,  and 
politely  presents  it ; your  servant  on  the  road  deliberately  rolls 
up  a cigarro , and,  striking  fire  with  his  eslabon,  proffers  it  to 


76 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


you  with  stoical  silence,  as  a matter  of  course ; and,  in  a word, 
in  all  grades  of  society,  at  all  times,  in  all  places,  this  social  lit- 
tle emblem  of  comfort  is  exchanged ; and  I verily  believe,  such 
is  the  force  of  habit,  that  a negotiation  opened  with  this  prelim- 
inary is  considered  as  already  half  completed. 

The  Catholic  religion  reigns  supreme  in  Nicaragua  and 
throughout  Central  America.  So  deeply  rooted  is  the  power 
of  the  Church  and  priesthood,  that  it  forms  the  basis  upon  which 
all  extraordinary  political  movements  are  made — the  priests  in 
some  way  always  influencing.  It  is  a special  clause  in  most 
of  the  constitutions  of  the  various  republics  that  the  Roman 
Catholic  religion  shall  be  that  of  the  people,  to  the  exclusion  of 
all  others ; and  attempts  hitherto  made  in  negotiations  for  settle- 
ments on  the  coast,  to  erect  and  worship  in  other  churches  than 
those  of  the  established  faith,  have  ever  met  with  the  united  op- 
position of  all  political  parties.  This  is  somewhat  owing  to  the 
religious  veneration  instilled  into  the  minds  of  the  people,  but 
mainly  to  the  fact  that  the  legislative  bodies  are  mostly  com- 
posed of  lawyers  or  licenciados  educated  in  the  Catholic  uni- 
versities of  Guatemala  or  Costa  Rica,  or,  as  is  often  the  case, 
by  the  priests  themselves. 

The  exaggerated  forms  with  which  the  padres  of  the  sixteenth 
century  introduced  Catholicism  into  Guatemala  are  yet  witness- 
ed, and  such  ceremonies  as  “the  hanging  of  Judas,”  plastering 
ashes  upon  the  forehead  on  dia  cenizas  or  Ash-Wednesday,  car- 
rying effigies  of  the  Virgin  and  saints  through  the  streets  in  pub- 
lic procession,  are  of  frequent  occurrence  throughout  the  coun- 
try. The  women,  however,  are  the  most  faithful  to  the  behests 
of  the  Church,  and  few  venture  to  miss  the  misa  or  fail  to  attend 
the  morning  service.  The  public  amusements  are  also  so  art- 
fully interwoven  with  all  religious  ceremonies  that  they  have 
become  inseparable,  so  that  the  celebration  of  certain  saints’ 
days,  embracing  the  observance  of  special  Church  rites,  is  at- 
tended with  cock-fighting,  bull-fights,  music,  feasting,  fireworks, 
and  dancing.  It  may  thus  be  readily  seen,  where  the  only  pub- 
lic pleasures  of  the  people  are  made  the  means  of  cementing 
their  allegiance  to  the  Catholic  faith,  it  becomes  a powerful  in- 
strument in  the  hands  of  the  priesthood,  aided  by  the  inborn 
superstitions  of  the  race  and  by  the  monopoly  of  education 


RELIGIOUS  PROCESSIONS. 


77 


possessed  by  the  padres  or  those  instructed  under  their  direct 
influence. 

Religious  processions  are  viewed  with  respectful  veneration 
by  the  populace.  The  padre,  walking  under  the  sacred  canopy 
held  over  his  head  by  four  attendants,  is  preceded  by  a bell- 
ringer, and  the  music  of  violins  and  bass-viols,  which  accompa- 
ny the  voice  of  the  priest  and  the  choristers.  The  numerous 
ornaments  and  symbols  of  the  Church  are  carried  in  the  ranks. 
The  spectacle,  even  to  an  unbeliever,  is  an  imposing  one,  and  I 
never  failed  to  show  my  respect  to  the  religious  forms  of  the 
country  by  lifting  my  hat  as  it  moved  slowly  by ; but  the 
broadest  hints  of  my  native  companions  could  never  bring  me 
to  my  knees,  though  in  all  directions,  and  often  for  several  ad- 
jacent streets,  wherever  the  solemn  chant  of  the  singers  could 
penetrate,  the  people  were  kneeling  and  devoutly  crossing  them- 
selves as  the  clangor  of  a dozen  deep-mouthed  bells  mingled 
their  noise  with  the  scene.  The  whole  performance  seemed  to 
me  the  relic  of  a semi-barbarous  age,  and  yet  we  find  here  the 
same  ceremonies  performed  at  which  the  mail-cased  warriors  of 
Alvarado  and  Cortez  were  wont  to  doff  their  plumed  helmets. 
The  remark  is  true,  that  Central  America  has  been  at  a “ stand- 
still” since  the  Conquest ; indeed,  many  of  the  primitive  habits 
of  the  old  conquerors  still  exist. 

Chinandega,  usually  one  of  the  gayest  towns  of  Nicaragua, 
presented  but  a sad  spectacle  during  this  revolution.  All  gay- 
ety  had  ceased,  as  from  general  consent.  The  reunions,  which 
at  times  enable  the  stranger  to  form  an  idea  of  the  social  and 
domestic  qualities  of  the  people,  were  now  unknown  ; the  place 
was  deserted  by  its  principal  residents,  who  had  retired  to  their 
haciendas  to  escape  assessment,  while  those  of  the  lower  class- 
es who  could  leave  shunned  the  town  to  avoid  impressment  into 
the  army.  My  acquaintances  often  regretted  the  triste  condi- 
tion of  affairs,  and  assured  me  I viewed  the  town  to  disad- 
vantage. 

In  the  evening,  however,  at  the  dullest  season,  the  observer 
may  obtain  a glance  at  the  out-door  customs  of  the  people.  At 
this  hour  the  chubasco  has  passed  away,  leaving  a tumble  of 
purple  and  golden  clouds  in  the  western  horizon.  The  shrub- 
bery and  streets  are  yet  wet  with  the  rain,  glistening  in  myriad 


78 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


diamond  drops  from  palm  and  plantain  trees.  The  houses, 
rivaling  each  other  in  their  hues  of  red,  blue,  or  yellow,  accord- 
ing to  the  taste  of  the  owner,  impart  a lively  character  to  the 
scene.  The  streets,  through  the  heat  of  the  day  monopolized 
by  loaded  mules  or  naked  children,  disputing  with  the  hogs  the 
possession  of  some  coveted  nook  in  which  to  snooze,  now  pre- 
sent a more  animated  picture.  At  yonder  corner  a handsomely- 
mounted  cavalier  has  just  reined  in  his  long-tailed,  heavily-bit- 
ted stud.  That  is  Senor  V e,  a well-known  and  respected 

gentleman,  who  is  now  following  his  immemorial  custom  of  a 
paseo  a caballo  in  the  cool  of  the  evening.  His  silver-mount- 
ed saddle  and  head-stall,  the  elaborately  wrought  reins  and 
jingling  spurs,  with  the  splendid  slashed  serape  thrown  negli- 
gently over  the  left  shoulder,  display  the  man  of  taste.  He  has 
all  the  Spaniard’s  pride  in  owning  handsome  horse -accoutre- 
ments. He  observes  our  notice,  and  courteously  raises  his  bea- 
ver, at  the  same  time  accidentally  touching  his  well-trained 
steed,  who  starts  forward,  rears  and  backs,  to  the  evident  satis- 
faction of  his  master ; but  having  recently  left  California,  where 
a five  years’  residence  has  shown  me  some  of  the  finest  horse- 
manship in  the  world,  the  feat  is  rather  stale. 

Now  he  is  joined  by  several  others,  equally  well  mounted  and 
equipped,  and  a genei'al  raising  of  sombreros  to  a sallow-visaged 
belle  shows  they  are  not  wanting  in  gallantry.  A minute  of 
grave  converse,  and  the  whole  party  are  off  at  a rapid  amble, 
the  animals  being  broken  into  that  peculiar  pace,  through  which 
they  have  acquired  the  name  of  andacloras  or  rackers.  Nu- 
merous parties  are  now  venturing  out  of  the  shady  houses,  and 
sauntering  lazily  down  the  streets  with  the  waddling  gait  never 
seen  out  of  the  region  of  Spaniards  and  Italians  or  their  de- 
scendants, now  stopping  to  chat  a moment  with  an  acquaintance, 
bent,  like  themselves,  on  learning  the  gossip  of  the  day,  or  ex- 
changing the  revolutionary  news  with  some  decrepit  viejo 
through  the  grated  bars  of  the  street  window.  Groups  of  pot- 
bellied little  children,  some  boasting  a shirt  and  others  in  a state 
of  nudity,  their  skins  shining  like  polished  mahogany,  are  gam- 
boling in  the  calle,  while  a bevy  of  straight,  well-formed  women 
are  lighting  their  cigarros  and  leisurely  gossiping  with  the  mis- 
tress of  the  posada.  Suddenly  the  hour  of  oracion  is  tolled  from 


THE  AFTERNOON  “ PASEO.”— TIENDAS. 


79 


the  tower  of  la  Paroquia.  In  an  instant  every  voice  is  hushed; 
the  children  cease  their  frolicking  as  by  instinct ; a sudden  si- 
lence succeeds  the  temporary  bustle,  and  the  moving  of  lips 
with  the  rapid  and  mechanical  muttering  of  set  forms  of  prayer, 
are  heard  from  among  the  uncovered  groups.  A short  pause, 
and  the  bells  peal  out  a joyful  clang ; the  conversation  and 
sports  are  renewed  where  they  had  broken  off : night  approach- 
es ; one  after  another  the  doors  and  windows  are  closed  and  bar- 
red, the  streets  become  deserted,  the  patrol,  with  lanterns  and 
muskets,  march  past  to  the  tap  of  drum,  and  at  nine  o’clock  si- 
lence reigns  over  the  city,  save  where,  at  intervals,  the  loud  cry 
of  “ Alerto  !”  of  the  sentinels  reminds  us  that,  amid  all  the  ru- 
ral splendor  with  which  Nature  has  adorned  Nicaragua,  her  sons 
seem  laboring  to  annul  the  blessings  dispensed  by  Providence. 
The  solemn  peal  of  the  church  clock  tolls  the  hour  of  ten,  and 
as  the  forked  lightnings,  which  at  intervals  play  in  fitful  flash- 
es around  the  peak  of  the  volcano,  mingled  with  the  low  mutter- 
ing of  distant  thunder,  announce  the  approach  of  the  usual  noc- 
turnal storm,  I close  and  bar  my  door,  and  am  soon  in  the  em- 
brace of  the  drowsy  god. 

A very  commendable  custom  in  Nicaragua,  as  in  all  Central 
America,  is  that  of  keeping  a small  shop  in  the  dwelling — the 
tienda , as  it  is  called — in  which  the  lady  of  the  house  usually 
presides.  In  this  manner  many  a family,  reduced  by  the  revo- 
lutions, is  partly  supported.  This  has  become  fashionable  from 
necessity,  and  the  prettiest  girls  of  the  country  may  often  be 
found  behind  the  counters  of  these  little  shops  dispensing  all  the 
common  articles  of  life.  The  tienda  is  frequently  the  scene  of 
a love-match,  and  here,  it  is  said,  more  scandal  and  news  is  re- 
tailed than  at  any  other  point.  The  tienda , in  fact,  is  the  “ on 
’change”  of  all  classes,  and  answers  for  a news  exchange,  as  the 
country  grocery  in  the  United  States  serves  for  the  discussion 
of  the  political  items  of  the  day.  From  causes  above  explained, 
it  happens  that  the  shop-keepers  are  mostly  women  or  old  men, 
though  there  are  numerous  instances  where  large  retail  business 
is  done  by  importing  firms. 

Up  to  1840,  the  greater  part  of  the  manufactured  goods  con- 
sumed in  Nicaragua  was  imported  from  England,  which  for  thir- 
ty years  has  enjoyed  a monopoly  of  this  lucrative  trade.  But, 


80 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


in  addition  to  the  Germans  and  Italians,  who  have  recently  be- 
come powerful  rivals  in  this  business,  the  trade  from  California 
has  grown  into  importance,  considerable  amounts  of  manufac- 
tured goods  and  provisions  being  carried  to  Central  America  by 
a few  vessels  employed  in  the  trade. 

Having  letters  of  introduction  to  various  gentlemen  of  Leon, 
I availed  myself  of  the  offer  of  my  hospitable  entertainer  to 
make  use  of  his  favorite  macho , just  brought  in  from  a neigh- 
boring hacienda.  The  senora,  with  the  aid  of  two  or  three 
bustling  girls,  busied  herself  on  the  morning  of  my  departure  in 
preparing  some  little  dainties  for  the  road,  and,  as  a great  favor, 
ordered  her  own  servant,  Pablo,  to  mount  a stout  little  mule 
and  accompany  me.  My  two  companions,  who  had  long  since 
arrived  from  Eealejo  and  installed  themselves  in  the  house,  pre- 
ferred to  remain.  On  a bright,  fresh  morning,  with  my  new 
servant,  I mounted  at  the  door,  and  in  a few  minutes  had  am- 
bled out  of  the  barrios  of  the  town,  the  open  road  to  Leon  be- 
fore us.  The  distance  is  some  twenty  miles,  over  an  almost 
perfect  plain,  though  somewhat  undulating  as  you  approach 
the  capital.  Traveling  in  Central  America,  in  the  sierras  as 
well  as  the  low  country,  is  done  in  the  cool  of  the  morning. 
The  senora  hastened  me  off  by  8 o’clock,  asserting  even  then 
that  I should  be  obliged  to  stop  on  the  road  either  to  avoid  the 
aguacero  or  to  escape  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun.  My  servant 
was  a native  of  Leon,  and  was  strongly  attached  to  his  native 
place. 

“ Every  thing,”  said  he,  “is  to  be  found  in  Leon,  senor.  Es 
una  ciudad  hermosa,  aunque  en  el  dia  muy  triste .” 

The  ancient  feud  between  Leon  and  Granada  existed  still  in 
the  mind  of  my  companion,  who  snapped  his  fingers  derisively 
at  the  idea  of  los  Granadinos  retaining  possession  of  the  city  an- 
other month  against  the  assaults  of  his  townsmen  who  were  then 
besieging  it.  About  a mile  out  of  the  town,  he  begged  I would 
allow  him  to  stop  at  a small  hacienda  on  the  road,  where  he  had 
recently  made  an  important  purchase ; so,  turning  into  a pic- 
turesque, leaf-embowered  passage  leading  from  the  main  road, 
we  came  to  a small  house,  where  Pablo  seemed  to  possess  no 
little  influence.  His  property  proved  to  be  a tough-looking 
game-cock,  which  he  was  pampering  for  some  approaching  feast- 


THE  BRITISH  CONSUL. 


81 


day.  After  taking  an  affectionate,  sidelong  survey  of  his  cham- 
pion, he  reluctantly  turned  again  into  the  highway.  The  road 
between  Chinandega  and  Leon  is  like  that  already  described 
from  Realejo.  A ride  of  about  nine  miles  brought  us  to  the  lit- 
tle town  of  Chichigalpa,  containing  about  two  thousand  inhab- 
itants. Here  is  situated  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  the  state. 
The  place  wore  the  same  silent,  deserted  aspect  of  the  other 
towns,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a few  staring  children,  naked 
and  motionless,  there  appeared  no  sign  of  life  as  we  entered. 
The  dwellings  are  of  adobe,  unplastered,  irregularly  built,  and 
without  the  slightest  pretension  to  symmetry. 

We  proceeded  to  the  best  looking  house  in  the  principal  street, 
where  we  dismounted,  and  entering,  found  a number  of  women 
spinning  and  rolling  cigarros.  They  easily  fell  into  conversa- 
tion, and  asked  me  if  I was  el  ministro.  The  U.  S.  govern- 
ment had  dispatched  so  many  of  these  honorable  emissaries  to 
Nicaragua  that  every  American  is  regarded  as  occupying  some 
official  capacity.  A calabash  of  tiste  was  quickly  made,  and, 
swinging  in  the  comfortable  hammock,  I was  fast  forgetting  the 
admonition  of  Senora  Montealegre,  when  Pablo  hinted  that  we 
had  yet  some  leagues  before  us ; so,  responding  to  the  earnest 
“ actios"  of  the  Chichigalpa  gossips,  we  pursued  our  journey 
eastward.  The  road — one  of  the  finest  in  Nicaragua — is  wide 
and  even,  and  lined  with  stately  trees,  under  whose  grateful 
shade  the  traveler  passes  for  the  greater  part  of  the  way.  At 
this  season,  however,  deep  pools  of  water  had  collected,  obliging 
the  caratones  to  deviate  from  the  main  road  and  penetrate  the 
thickets  on  either  hand. 

Half  a mile  beyond  the  town  I perceived  a stout,  jolly-looking 
gentleman  approaching,  mounted  on  a strong  mule.  I judged 
rightly,  from  the  description  given  me,  that  this  must  be  the  En- 
glish consul,  Mr.  Thomas  Manning,  to  whom  I had  letters  of 
introduction.  Consequently  I accosted  him,  and  we  were  soon 
exchanging  the  news.  He  was  en  route  for  Realejo,  and  in  a 
few  words  gave  me  the  details  of  the  war,  and  the  probable  re- 
sults of  the  Revolution.  Mr.  Manning  has  been  a resident  of 
Nicaragua  for  many  years,  and  has  grown  rich  by  means  of  the 
advantageous  commercial  operations  offered  in  the  state  while  his 
countrymen  monopolized  its  trade.  He  pointed  to  a dark  blue 

F 


82 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


horizon  of  clouds  in  the  south,  and  advised  me  to  remain  over 
night  in  the  village  of  Posultega,  a few  miles  beyond  ; then  plac- 
ing his  house  in  Leon  at  my  disposal,  he  pursued  his  way.  An- 
other half  hour  brought  us  to  the  village,  and  Pablo  led  the  way 
to  a posada,  where,  alighting,  I ordered  more  tiste,  the  only  drink, 
save  aguardiente , to  be  obtained  on  the  road. 

Pablo  hinted,  after  I had  dismounted,  that  the  belle  of  Posul- 
tega lived  in  the  posada,  and,  on  entering,  I found  three  prettily- 
dressed  girls,  one  swinging  in  the  hammock,  which  occupation 
she  did  not  cease  as  we  entered,  except  to  turn  her  face  toward 
me  and  say,  “ Adios , Caballero  /”  and  the  other  two  seated  at  the 
back  door,  examining  each  other’s  heads.  The  mother,  a garru- 
lous, withered  old  woman,  glanced  hastily  at  her  little  brood, 
and,  satisfied  with  their  appearance,  bid  me  welcome,  and  in- 
quired the  news  from  Chinandega.  I soon  found  that  the  nymph 
of  the  hammock  was  the  belle  referred  to,  and,  as  far  as  I could 
judge  through  the  darkness,  she  made  the  nearest  approach  to 
beauty  I had  yet  seen  in  the  countiy : fine  teeth,  dark,  clus- 
tering hair  tastefully  arranged,  a rich  olive  complexion,  faultless 
form,  large,  lustrous  eyes,  and  pretty  hands  and  feet.  Pablo 
gazed  in  admiration,  and  I afterward  found  that  the  young  Le- 
onese  was  one  of  half  a dozen  suitors  for  her  hand.  The  old 
woman  observed  my  attention  to  the  girl,  and,  with  an  air  of 
pride,  asked, 

“ Que  tal  le  parece  d Vd.  mi  niha?” 

I of  course  was  not  sparing  in  my  praise,  and,  in  answer  to 
the  inquiries  of  the  gilds,  attempted  to  give  them  some  idea  of 
the  belles  of  my  own  country.  To  these  unsophisticated  beau- 
ties the  arts  of  the  toilet  and  the  various  appliances  of  fashion- 
able life  were  unknown,  and  they  listened  with  unfeigned  won- 
der to  my  account  of  the  stay-lacing  and  tight-boot  tortures  of 
gay  New  York. 

Before  my  departure  the  party  was  joined  by  a grizzly  old 
native,  who  offered  to  accompany  me  on  my  road,  and  on  my 
declining  his  services  he  asked  me  for  a real  in  compensation  for 
his  kind  wishes.  I thought  this  a model  method  of  begging, 
but,  being  new  in  the  country,  preferred  to  hand  the  old  fellow 
the  coin,  which  he  received  with  an  audible  prayer  that  “Dios” 
would  keep  step  with  me  for  my  kindness.  I have  no  doubt 


A VISIT  FROM  “ THE  MILITARY.' 


83 


he  laughed  at  me  for  an  American  heretic  a moment  after  my 
departure ; however,  I was  willing  to  buy  the  incident  for  the 
low  price  of  one  real.  As  I mounted  at  the  door,  the  old  wom- 
an told  me  her  name  was  Benita  Ramierez,  and  that  she  had 
long  since  learned  to  love  los  Americanos.  I made  allowance 
for  the  education  the  family  had  received  in  their  contact  with 
passengers  in  1851.  No  people  in  the  world  learn  sooner  than 
the  Nicaraguans  the  value  of  a dollar,  and  to  pass  at  once  from 
unsophisticated  hospitality  to  the  most  exacting  meanness  ; but 
this  applies  particularly  to  that  class  who  have  become  familiar 
with  Americans  in  the  vicinity  of  the  transit  routes.  The  dark- 
eyed Luisa  followed  me  to  the  door,  and  no  doubt  assured  her- 
self of  having  made  one  more  conquest.  One  of  the  oldest 
churches  in  Nicaragua  (La  Quisalqueca)  is  now  in  ruins  in  Po- 
sultega. 

A few  minutes  after  leaving  Posultega,  the  storm,  which  for 
the  last  two  hours  had  been  threatening  in  the  horizon,  came 
pouring  down  upon  us.  Pablo  said  there  were  no  more  houses 
for  two  leagues  on  the  road,  but  he  knew  of  a small  hacienda  to 
the  southward,  approached  by  a path  into  which  we  speedily 
turned,  but  did  not  escape  being  drenched  through  with  a mer- 
ciless rain.  By  the  time  we  had  reached  the  hacienda  of  Pa- 
ciente,  the  air  was  a falling  sheet  of  water.  We  spurred  into 
the  yard  and  under  a sort  of  shed,  where  three  or  four  women 
were  making  tortillas  and  grinding  mais.  They  welcomed  us 
heartily  to  their  fire.  For  an  hour  there  seemed  no  cessation 
to  the  rain,  which  was,  as  usual,  accompanied  by  loud  thunder- 
claps and  vivid  lightning.  The  heaviest  and  most  frequent 
rains  fall  in  Nicaragua  during  the  months  of  August  and  Sep- 
tember. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival,  a party  of  soldiers,  under  the  com- 
mand of  a fat  captain,  stopped  at  the  hacienda.  They  made  a 
company  of  about  twenty,  and  wore  the  usual  uniform  of  white 
with  a narrow  red  stripe  on  the  legs.  Drunken,  wet,  insolent, 
and  with  bedraggled  finery,  they  presented  a sorry  picture.  The 
captain  whispered  to  one  of  the  women,  and  a moment  after- 
ward approached  me  and  asked  the  hour.  Not  caring  to  take 
out  my  watch  in  the  presence  of  the  crowd,  I replied  as  brief- 
ly as  possible,  but  he  insisted  on  satisfying  himself.  I threw 


84 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


back  my  poncho  enough  for  him  to  see  a large-sized  revolver 
slung  at  my  hip,  and  which  I usually  endeavored  to  conceal. 
The  fellow,  who  was  half  drunk,  regarded  it  fixedly  for  a mo- 
ment, and  then  asked,  “Tienes  pasaporte?”  I showed  him  a 
paper  given  me  by  the  commandante  of  Chinandega,  which 
seemed  to  satisfy  him  ; for,  after  requesting  a light  from  my  ci- 
gar, he  mounted,  and  the  whole  party  pursued  their  way  in  the 
rain,  yelling  as  they  wheeled  around  the  old  adobe,  and  laughing 
with  drunken  phrensy.  Pablo  exchanged  glances  with  the  wom- 
en, and  he  assured  me  that  but  for  the  sight  of  my  pistol  I would 
have  been  robbed.  The  soldiers  were  on  their  way  to  the  cuar- 
iel  of  Kealejo.  Several  robberies  had  been  recently  committed 
on  the  road.  I afterward  learned  that  the  captain  believed  me 
to  be  a Guatemalan  spy. 

The  women  now  proceeded  with  their  occupation  of  making 
tortillas , and  an  interesting  occupation  it  is.  The  corn  is  mix- 
ed with  a quantity  of  ley,  and  boiled  for  a few  minutes  over  a 
slow  fire.  It  is  then  washed,  and  placed  in  a pile  upon  a hollow 
stone,  resembling  a small,  old-fashioned  stool.  The  com  heap- 
ed up  at  one  end  has  the  consistency  of  boiled  hominy.  A 
handful  is  scraped  into  the  hollow  part  of  the  machine,  and 
mashed  with  a sort  of  pestle,  also  of  stone.  The  operation  of 
grinding  is  somewhat  like  that  of  rolling  out  pie-crust.  The 
paste  is  next  spatted  into  the  proper  thinness,  and  baked  quick- 
ly on  a piece  of  sheet  iron  or  stone.  When  hot  they  are  very 
palatable,  and  in  traveling  through  the  country  I invariably  pre- 
ferred them  to  the  wheaten  bread,  which  is  always  ill-made  and 
heavy.  The  tortilla  ( “pan  del  pais")  is  found  upon  every  ta- 
ble, among  all  classes,  and  constitutes,  with  frijoles,  the  princi- 
pal food  of  the  poor  throughout  Central  America.  The  slow 
process  of  grinding  the  corn  practiced  by  the  women  has  led 
several  foreigners  to  introduce  Indian  corn-meal,  particularly  in 
haciendas  at  harvest-time,  where  the  laborers  are  obliged  to  await 
the  tardy  movements  of  las  tortilleras.  But,  either  from  preju- 
dice or  unwillingness  to  deviate  from  established  customs,  the 
meal  has  been  every  where  discarded,  and  the  women  stoutly 
declare  it  impossible  to  make  tortillas  in  any  other  than  by  the 
ancient  method.  The  picture  is  not  an  uninteresting  one,  to  see 
a well-formed  girl,  with  bare  arms,  and  long,  luxuriant  hair, 


HACIENDA  DE  PACIENTE. 


85 


thrown  carelessly  hack 
from  her  face,  leaning- 
over  her  work,  and  at  in- 
tervals resting  from  the 
labor  to  gossip  with  her 
garrulous  companions,  or 
give  the  loud, hearty  laugh 
which  distinguishes  the 
Central  American  women 
for  their  hilarity  and  good 
nature. 

The  scenery  around 
Paciente  is  like  that  of 
every  hacienda  on  the 
great  plain  of  Leon,  the 
immediate  view  bounded 
by  walls  of  the  greenest 
verdure,  vocal  with  the 
song  of  birds,  and  span- 
gled with  gorgeous  flow- 
ers. It  is  only  in  contem- 
plation of  these  wondrous 
beauties  of  nature  that 
the  traveler  can  forget 
the  squalid  ignorance 
around  him  ; a debased 
and  decadent  race,  afford- 
ing the  more  striking  con- 
trast to  the  luxuriance  of 
the  wide-spreading  land- 
scape, in  which  seem  con- 
centrated all  the  choicest 
gifts  of  Providence.  The 
rain  still  poured,  and  still 
the  monotonous  rubbing 
of  the  jriedra  de  moler 
mingled  with  its  falling. 
The  yard  had  become  a 
hissing  pond,  through 


86 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


which  the  girls  paddled  from  house  to  shed,  lifting  their  skirts, 
and  exhibiting  an  amusing  disregard  of  mud  and  wet.  At  last, 
tired  of  the  monotony  of  the  scene,  and  the  dull,  leaden  sky 
oyerhead  seeming  to  offer  no  reasonable  promise  of  revealing 
a glimpse  of  blue,  I ordered  Pablo  to  saddle  the  animals,  and, 
despite  his  warnings  of  the  danger  of  fever,  we  splashed  out  of 
the  yard. 

Wrapped  in  Toy  poncho,  I slowly  followed  Pablo  along  a road 
now  almost  impassable  with  mud.  Presently  we  came  to  three 
wooden  crosses  erected  on  the  wayside,  which  my  companion 
pointed  out  as  marking  the  graves  of  as  many  robbers,  who  had 
been  killed  a few  years  before  by  a party  of  gentlemen  from 
Leon,  headed  by  Don  Francisco  Dias  Zapato,  better  known  as 
“ Chico  Dias.”  Descending  a steep  declivity,  we  came  to  the 
River  Quisalhuague,  rising  a little  above  the  town  of  Telica,  about 
eight  miles  north  of  Leon.  It  was  now  swollen  and  turbid,  and 
rushed  violently  among  the  rocks  forming  its  bed.  We  forded 
it  about  two  hundred  yards  below  where  we  struck  it,  and  rising 
the  opposite  bank  met  a boy,  apparently  not  above  six  years  of 
age,  carrying  a load  of  fagots  upon  his  head,  which  he  put 
upon  the  ground  in  order  to  make  a low  bow  to  me  as  I passed. 
His  costume  consisted  of  a tattered  shirt  and  a string  of  glass 
beads  around  his  neck.  He  stood  and  gazed  after  me  as  I pass- 
ed, and,  observing  me  look  back,  shouted,  “ Givy  me  dime  T 
which  accounted  for  his  politeness. 

We  now  began  to  approach  Leon,  its  proximity  being  indi- 
cated by  the  occasional  country  people  we  met  trudging  silently 
toward  the  city.  The  road  for  a league  was  lined  with  trim 
fences  of  cactus  and  often  of  wood,  inclosing  cane  and  other 
plantations,  interspersed  with  the  brightest  foliage.  Flocks  of 
paroquets  fluttered  among  the  trees,  while  at  intervals  along  the 
road  stood  the  solitary  white  crane,  awaiting  the  approach  of  his 
crawling  prey.  The  rain  had  at  last  ceased,  and  with  the  rays 
of  the  sinking  sun  the  country  for  miles  around  glowed  like 
some  overwrought  sunset  scene  found  depicted  in  artists’  stu- 
dios as  fancy  paintings.  In  no  part  of  the  world  that  I have  vis- 
ited have  I witnessed  the  gorgeous  sunsets  presented  in  Central 
America.  There  seems  to  be  a quality  in  the  atmosphere  im- 
parting a clear  and  brilliant  tone  to  the  evening  landscape,  some- 


APPROACH  TO  LEON. 


87 


APPROACH  TO  LEON. 


times  witnessed  in  the  mountains  of  California,  but  not  to  my 
knowledge  elsewhere.  The  great  plain  over  which  we  had  trav- 
eled since  morning  is  reckoned  the  most  valuable  agricultural 
land  of  tiie  state.  Not  a twentieth  part  of  it  is  under  cultiva- 
tion, and  its  capabilities  for  producing  all  the  tropical  staples 
can  scarcely  be  over-estimated,  while  by  its  present  owners  it 
seems  but  the  arena  for  endless  strife  and  bloodshed.  As  we 
ascended  a small  eminence  on  the  road,  the  towers  of  the  church 
at  Subtiaba,  and  the  cathedral  at  Leon,  overlooking  the  sur- 
rounding woods,  reflected  the  beams  of  the  setting  sun.  De- 
scending again,  we  came  suddenly  upon  several  girls  splashing 
in  a small  stream,  who  disappeared  like  turtles  as  we  approach- 
ed, leaving  the  head  above  water.  The  river  wound  to  the  left, 
and  after  crossing  it  we  overtook  a line  of  aguadoras,  or  water- 
bearers,  entering  the  city  with  the  night’s  supply.  Tired  with 
my  ride,  I urged  my  mule  forward,  and  entered  through  the 
barrios  the  long  paved  street  leading  eastward  toward  the  Pla- 
za. A white-haired  old  gentleman,  evidently  just  arisen  from 
his  siesta , directed  me  to  the  house  of  Dr.  Livingston.  As  we 
entered  the  Plaza,  the  sound  of  bells  with  the  peculiar  Spanish 
tone  brought  like  a flash  to  my  memory  the  scenes  of  Old 
Spain  and  the  Havana. 

The  striking  of  the  Spanish  bells  differs  entirely  from  that  of 
all  others.  At  the  sound  of  their  mellow  chime,  it  takes  but  a 


88 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


slight  tincture  of  romance  to  bring  up  in  imagination  the  haugh- 
ty mail-clad  cavaliers  of  the  sixteenth  century,  by  whose  energy 
and  courage  these  regions  were  conquered  and  peopled.  Amid 
these  evidences  of  their  race,  apparently  paling  before  the  ad- 
vance of  civilization,  the  recollections  of  legendary  lores  in  old 
chivalric  books,  devoured  years  back  with  schoolboy  eager- 
ness, come  crowding  up  more  vividly  in  view  of  these  time- 
worn towers  rising  in  quaint  and  rusty  architecture  above  the 
churches. 

Turning  an  abrupt  corner,  the  grand  Plaza  was  before  me, 
and  standing  in  its  centre  the  great  Cathedral  of  San  Pedro, 
the  corner-stone  of  which  was  laid  in  1706.  It  was  thirty-sev- 
en years  in  building,  and  is  justly  considered  one  of  the  strong- 
est and  most  splendid  buildings  in  America.  A religious  cere- 
mony, accompanied  with  music  and  the  usual  amount  of  bare- 
headed padres,  was  going  on  in  front  of  one  of  the  churches,  and 
far  and  near  the  sidewalks  and  door-steps  of  the  dwellings  were 
covered  with  kneeling  figures,  responding  fervently  to  the  mo- 
notonous chanting  of  the  priests.  Pablo  reverently  uncovered 
his  head,  and,  dismounting,  knelt  a moment,  and  again  strad- 
dling his  mule,  passed  on,  fully  satisfied  with  his  transient  de- 
votions. Following  the  universal  custom,  I raised  my  hat  as  I 
passed  the  holy  group.  Loud  strains  of  church  music  filled  the 
air,  mingled  with  the  voices  of  choristers  and  priests.  As  I 
gazed  upon  the  scene,  now  rendered  indistinct  with  the  glim- 
mering twilight,  I could  not  avoid,  heretic  as  I was,  a thrill  of 
devotional  enthusiasm.  Down  three  long  thoroughfares,  and 
forming  a vast  circle  of  worshipers  around  the  Plaza,  knelt  the 
veiled  seiiorita,  the  blear-eyed  beldame,  the  rough  soldier,  and 
the  tender  child,  each  responding  devoutly  to  the  loud-chanted 
prayer,  and  solemnly  making  the  sign  of  the  holy  cross.  He 
must,  indeed,  be  an  impassive  spectator  who  can  witness  un- 
moved the  imposing  rites  of  the  Catholic  Church,  clothed  though 
they  be  with  the  trickery  and  tinsel  with  which  the  priesthood 
love  to  catch  the  eye  of  the  masses. 

I was  too  weary  with  my  uncomfortable  ride  to  think  ot 
much  else  than  reaching  the  house  of  Dr.  Livingston,  where, 
after  traversing  several  silent,  grass-grown  streets,  we  arrived 
and  were  cordially  welcomed.  The  doctor  is  so  often  referred 


to  by  American  travelers  that  I felt  a growing  curiosity  to  know 
him.  We  had  hardly  reached  the  door  ere  he  approached,  and, 
to  my  surprise,  saluted  me  by  name.  It  appeared  that  a gen- 
tleman who  left  Chinandega  a day  before  me  had  notified  him 
of  my  arrival.  To  say  that  I was  heartily  and  generously  en- 
tertained during  my  stay  in  Leon  would  be  far  less  than  the 
tribute  I could  wish  to  pay  my  hospitable  and  manly  host.  A 
package  of  letters  and  the  latest  New  York  and  California 
newspapers  absorbed  his  attention  for  a while,  his  latest  news 
from  beyond  Central  America  dating  back  three  months.  As  I 
observed  his  intelligent  face  and  quick,  penetrating  eye,  I could 
but  remark  that  his  five  years’  residence  in  Nicaragua  had  pro- 
duced none  of  those  languid  habits  and  enervation  attributed  to 
the  foreigner  living  in  the  lowlands  of  Central  America.  Amid 
the  many  revolutions  and  consequent  jealousies,  he  had  hitherto 
escaped  the  ill  feeling  frequently  manifested  toward  Americans, 
and  I afterward  found  that  he  had  more  friends,  and  possessed 
a wider  social  and  political  influence,  than  any  other  of  my  coun- 
trymen in  the  republic.  In  a few  minutes  a bountiful  supper 
was  spread  in  the  corridor,  the  doctor  remarking  that,  though 
long  custom  had  led  him  to  adopt  the  hours  and  style  of  the 


MEETING  A COUNTRYMAN.  89 


CALLE  EEAL,  LEON. 


90 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


country,  he  was  sure  that  a Californian  could  not  yet  have  for- 
gotten how  to  appreciate  a more  substantial  repast.  I now 
learned  that  the  religious  ceremony  I had  just  witnessed  was 
preparatory  to  the  flight  of  souls  into  eternity  expected  to  take 
place  on  the  morrow,  that  day  having  been  selected  for  the  grand 
assault  on  Granada,  to  be  made  by  the  Castellon  troops.  The 
circumstance  of  its  being  the  thirty-third  anniversary  of  Cen- 
tral American  independence  was  expected  to  impart  extraordi- 
nary animation  to  the  troops.  As  we  conversed,  the  sound  of 
exploding  “bombas,”  with  the  loud  clang  of  every  church  bell 
in  the  city,  announced  the  conclusion  of  the  formalities. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

Independent  Day. — Leon. — Revolution  of  1854. — A Texan’s  method  of  keeping 
his  Men. — Leon  and  Granada  a century  and  a half  ago. — The  Cathedral. — 
Churches. — A Visit  to  President  Castellon. — Appearance  of  Government  Of- 
ficers.— Ex-President  Ramierez. — “ Chico  Dias.” — Society. — La  Casa  del  Go- 
bierno. — A Proposition. — Patriotism.  — Saddles. — Rain  in  Nicaragua. — De- 
parture from  Leon. — A Morning  Gallop. — Superb  Scenery. — Chinandega. — 
Tiste. — Eruit.  — More  Assessments. — An  Alarm.  — Cacherula.  — Nicaraguan 
Women. — Preparations  for  Departure. — Separation  of  the  Party. — Departure. 
— El  Viejo. — Shooting  a Monkey. — Zempisque.-— The  “Horrors.”— A Bongo 
del  Golfo. — The  Patron.  — Embarkation. — Estero  Real.  — Scenery. — “Com- 
fort.”— La  Playa  Grande. — An  Adventure.— Bay  of  Fonseca. 

I WAS  awakened  on  the  following  morning  with  repeated  sal- 
vos of  artillery,  shaking  the  adobe  house  to  its  foundation.  It 
was  the  anniversary  of  the  separation  of  the  states  from  the 
mother  country.  One  feels  a curiosity  in  these  little  republics 
to  observe  the  method  of  celebrating  their  “ Independent  Day.” 
Here,  however,  there  was  none  of  the  enthusiasm  and  universal 
rejoicing  exhibited  in  the  United  States.  Instead  of  thorough- 
fares crowded  with  merry  children,  buildings  decorated  with 
flags,  and  the  thousand  active  demonstrations  heralding  the  ar- 
rival of  “ the  Fourth,”  I saw  but  an  occasional  church  proces- 
sion winding  its  solemn  way  among  kneeling  gazers ; and  the 
only  military  display,  a dozen  or  so  of  soldiers  attending  the 
train. 

After  breakfast  we  went  to  the  grand  Plaza,  where  a squad  of 
noisy  fellows  in  white  uniforms  were  firing  a cannon,  which  ever 


INDEPENDENT  DAY  IN  LEON. 


91 


and  anon  echoed  among  the  narrow  streets.  We  had  quite  for- 
gotten our  proximity  to  the  gun,  and,  engaged  in  conversation, 
had  strolled  within  a few  yards  of  its  mouth,  when  a coffee-col- 
ored rascal  applied  the  match,  enveloping  our  little  party  in 
smoke,  and  half  stunning  us  with  the  noise.  The  doctor  gave 
them  a look,  to  which  the  crowd  replied  with  a loud  “ viva.” 

Leon  in  1854,  like  every  other  Nicaraguan  city,  presented  a 
sorry  spectacle.  In  fact,  the  town  is  falling  to  decay,  and  every 
species  of  improvement  has  long  since  ceased.  With  the  fran- 
tic revolutions  which  have  successively  swept  over  the  country, 
the  finest  residences  of  the  old  Spanish  families  have  been  burn- 
ed or  torn  down,  until  now,  though  the  first  city  of  the  republic, 
it  is  hut  the  ghost  of  its  former  self.  I passed  through  one 
street  lined  on  either  side  with  ruined  arches  and  walls,  the 
whole  overgrown  with  massive  verdure,  and  resembling  the  rel- 
ics of  some  aboriginal  race.  In  1823  this  part  of  the  city,  com- 
prising nearly  two  thousand  houses,  was  destroyed  by  fire.  The 
gardens,  formerly  extending  back  from  the  streets,  are  now 
choked  with  weeds  and  ruins.  I know  of  nothing  sadder  than 
the  apparent  certainty  with  which  these  people  seem  hurrying 
themselves  out  of  political  existence.  Without  tracing  back 
the  tangle  of  revolutions  which,  since  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence in  1821,  have  swept  through  the  country,  I shall  brief- 
ly revert  to  the  causes  and  leading  incidents  of  the  last. 

In  November,  1853,  a general  presidential  election  was  held 
throughout  Nicaragua,  the  candidates  being  Senores  Fruto  Cha- 
morro, formerly  Minister  of  War  and  belonging  to  the  Granada 
faction,  and  Francisco  Castellon,  a licenciado  of  Leon,  and  suc- 
cessively minister  to  England  and  France.  An  ancient  feud  has 
existed  between  the  rival  cities,  in  which  families,  intermarried, 
have  become  estranged,  and  bitter  jealousies  have  given  rise  to  in- 
cessant wars.  The  election  referred  to  resulted  in  favor  of  Cha- 
morro, though,  as  the  natives  of  Leon  asserted,  by  fraud  prac- 
ticed at  the  ballot-box.  At  the  union  of  the  Camaras , Chamor- 
ro attempted  obnoxious  alterations  in  the  Constitution,  of  such 
a type  that  the  suspicions  of  the  people  were  aroused.  It  is  as- 
serted that  evidences  of  a conspiracy  on  the  part  of  Castellon 
and  his  friends  were  discovered.  This  is  vehemently  denied  by 
the  Democrats.  The  times,  however,  were  considered  to  demand 


92 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


rigorous  measures,  so  Castellon  and  a number  of  bis  most  in- 
fluential friends  were  banished  the  state.  They  proceeded  to 
Honduras,  where  in  a few  months,  with  the  assistance  of  Presi- 
dent Cabanas,  of  that  republic,  a small  invading  army  was  raised, 
and  in  May  of  the  same  year  General  Jerez  landed  at  Realejo. 
and  proclaimed  Castellon  in  that  place  and  at  Chinandega,  where, 
as  well  as  in  Leon,  the  population  declared  in  his  favor. 

Chamorro  at  once  took  the  field,  but  was  beaten  in  two  bat- 
tles and  driven  to  his  native  Granada,  pursued  by  the  victorious 
Castellon  troops,  where  he  fortified  himself  in  the  Plaza,  and  re- 
tained possession  of  it,  despite  the  vigorous  assaults  of  his  be- 
siegers. The  entire  state,  with  the  exception  of  Granada,  was, 
at  the  time  of  my  arrival  in  Leon,  in  the  hands  of  the  Democrats, 
and  sanguine  anticipations  were  entertained  that  Granada  would 
be  taken  during  the  month  of  September.  The  issue  involved 
in  this  contest,  which  lasted  through  the  year  1854,  was  not  so 
much  a matter  of  success  between  the  opposing  leaders  as  the 
predominance  of  Liberal  or  Democratic  principles  in  Nicaragua ; 
Chamorro  being  one  of  the  wealthiest  hacendados  in  the  state, 
and  having  for  his  supporters  the  aristocratic  families  and  the 
priesthood.  Castellon  had  always  been  regarded  as  the  people’s 
man,  but  in  the  event  of  success  he  would  not  have  remained 
long  in  power,  being  weak  and  vacillating,  though  one  of  the 
ablest  political  men  in  the  republic.  Subsequent  events  since 
the  arrival  of  Walker  have  given  a turn  to  affairs  little  antici- 
pated by  either  party  in  the  early  days  of  the  Revolution.  In 
this  contest  Honduras  espoused  the  cause  of  the  Liberals,  Presi- 
dent Cabanas  ranking  among  the  most  illustrious  leaders  of  that 
party.  Costa  Rica  and  San  Salvador  remained  inactive  specta- 
tors, the  former  covertly  advocating  the  servile  or  conservative 
cause  through  its  organ,  ’■‘•La  Gaceta ,”  while  Guatemala,  openly 
in  favor  of  Chamorro,  took  no  active  part,  except  to  employ  its 
secret  agents  in  the  theatre  of  war.  Later,  however,  General 
Guardiola,  with  a considerable  body  of  Guatemalans,  assumed 
the  Chamorro  cause,  and  became  actively  engaged  in  the  con- 
test. Such  was  the  relative  position  of  the  Central  American 
states  in  1854. 

During  this  revolution  the  trade  of  the  republic  was  para- 
lyzed. The  few  vessels  entering  Realejo  and  San  Juan  del  Sur 


POLITICAL  CONDITION  OF  THE  STATE. 


93 


hardly  imparted  tlie  name  of  commerce,  while  the  usual  brisk 
traffic  of  Granada  was  carefully  cut  off  by  the  Democratic  fleets 
cruising  in  the  lake.  With  such  a condition  of  affairs,  it  is  not 
surprising  that  a general  stagnation  was  experienced  throughout 
the  state.  Even  the  few  agricultural  efforts  were  discouraged 
by  the  inevitable  descent  made  upon  any  half  dozen  laborers 
brought  together  upon  the  haciendas.  The  rich  retired  to  their 
estates  to  avoid  assessments,  and  the  poorer  classes  were  con- 
stantly in  fear  of  impressment.  No  regard  to  property  was 
shown.  The  muleteer,  pursuing  his  avocation  along  the  high- 
way, overtaken  by  the  troops  of  either  party,  was  deprived  of 
his  animals,  and  taken  himself  to  the  nearest  cuartel  and  forci- 
bly enlisted.  Only  the  property  of  foreigners  was  exempt  from 
assessment.  A few  days  before  my  arrival  at  Leon,  a party 
had  been  sent  to  the  hacienda  of  an  American  (a  Texan)  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  a body  of  natives  collected  there  to  grind 
cane.  On  learning  the  object  of  the  visit,  Sam  gathered  his 
dusky  brood  in  an  adobe  house,  and,  taking  his  long  rifle  in 
hand,  placed  himself  before  the  door.  The  officer  in  command 
arrived  and  demanded  the  men.  Sam  assured  him  that  the 
first  one  who  entered  the  yard  would  be  shot.  The  officer  ex- 
postulated ; Sam  remained  firm,  and  with  such  a wicked  look 
that  the  party  finally  returned,  the  captain  informing  Castellon 
that  “ these  Americans  were  not  to  be  trifled  with,”  and  that  he 
felt  sure  Sam  would  have  fired  had  he  persisted. 

“ In  that  case,”  gravely  replied  the  President,  “ you  did  right 
to  retire.  Son  hombres  muy  violentes  estos  Americanos  /” 

About  twenty  Americans  were  employed  in  the  two  contend- 
ing armies.  Those  in  the  Castellon  cause  were  never  allowed 
to  assist  in  a charge  or  attack,  their  skill  being  held  at  too  high 
an  estimate  as  riflemen  to  be  risked  in  the  open  field.  The  ac- 
curacy acquired  by  some  of  these  auxiliaries  became  a matter 
of  great  wonder,  and  large  bribes  were  offered  on  both  sides  to 
secure  their  services.  There  were  also  Italians  and  French  em- 
ployed as  gunners  and  riflemen.  The  country  beyond  Granada 
and  to  the  northward  of  Leon  was  infested  with  guerrillas  and 
scouting-parties,  keeping  the  inhabitants  in  a constant  state  of 
alarm.  Nicaragua  has  rarely  suffered  under  more  pressing  evils 
than  at  this  time. 


94 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


The  foundation  of  the  present  city  of  Leon  was  laid  some 
eighty  years  after  the  abandonment  of  the  old  capital  founded 
by  Francisco  Hernandez  de  Cordova  in  1523.  The  ruins  of  the 
old  city,  dating  in  antiquity  with  Granada,  may  yet  be  seen 
near  Lake  Managua.  The  work  of  Thomas  Gage,  an  English 
friar  writing  in  1699,*  p.  419,  says  : “This  city  of  Leon  is  very 
curiously  built,  for  the  chief  Delight  of  the  Inhabitants  consists 
in  their  houses,  and  in  the  Pleasure  of  the  country  adjoining,  and 
in  the  abundance  of  all  things  for  the  Life  of  Man,  more  than  in 
the  extraordinary  Riches,  which  there  are  not  so  much  enjoyed 
as  in  other  parts  of  America.  They  are  content  with  fine  Gar- 
dens, with  variety  of  singing  Birds  and  Parrets,  with  plenty  of 
Fish  and  Flesh,  which  is  cheap,  and  with  gay  Horses,  and  so 
lead  a delicious,  lasie,  and  idle  Life ; not  aspiring  much  Trade 
and  Traffique,  tho  they  have  near  them  the  Lake,  which  com- 
monly every  year  sends  forth  some  Frigates  to  the  Havana  by 
the  North  Sea,  and  Realejo  on  the  South  Sea,  which  might  be 
very  commodious  for  any  dealing  and  rich  trading  in  Peru  or  to 
Mexico,  if  their  Spirits  would  carry  them  so  far : the  Gentle- 
men of  this  City  are  almost  as  vain  and  phantastical  as  are  those 
of  Chiapa : especially  from  the  Pleasure  of  this  City  is  all  that 
Province  of  Nicaragua  called  by  the  Spaniards  ‘ Mahomet’s  Par- 
adise.’ ” Speaking  of  the  opulence  and  trade  of  Granada,  the 
same  author  says,  p.  421 : “ That  year  I was  there,  before  I 
betook  myself  to  an  Indian  Town,  in  one  day  there  entered  six 
Riquas  (which  were  at  least  three  hundred  mules)  from  St.  Sal- 
vador and  Comayagua  only,  laden  with  nothing  but  Indigo, 
Cochinil  and  Hides  ; and  two  days  after,  from  Guatemala,  came 
in  three  more,  one  laden  with  silver  (which  was  the  king’s  trib- 
ute from  that  country),  the  other  with  Sugar,  and  the  other  with 
Indigo.” 

Leon  now  contains  about  15,000  inhabitants,  among  whom 
are  many  of  the  most  illustrious  families  in  Central  America. 
The  city  extends  over  a large  space,  but  in  architecture  does 
not  materially  differ  from  Chinandega.  There  are  several  pub- 
lic buildings  with  some  pretensions  to  elegance.  Its  churches 

* A New  Survey  of  the  West  Indies ; “ being  a Journey  of  Three  Thousand  and 
Three  Hundred  Miles  within  the  main-land  of  America.  By  Thomas  Gage,  the  only 
Protestant  that  was  ever  known  to  have  travel! d those  parts.” 


CATHEDRAL  OF  SAN  PEDRO. 


95 


CATHEDRAL  OF  LEON. 


are  more  numerous  and  larger  than  those  of  any  other  Central 
American  city  excepting  Guatemala,  among  them  the  Cathedral 
of  San  Pedro,  already  referred  to.  Its  roof  has  served  as  a for- 
tress in  times  of  siege,  and  no  better  evidence  is  wanting  of  the 
fearful  struggles  which  have  taken  place  around  it  than  the 
thousands  of  bullet-marks  scarring  its  venerable  walls.  They 
are  of  immense  thickness,  and  no  earthquake  has  yet  been  able 
to  create  the  slightest  fissure  in  them.  One  of  its  towers  was 
struck  by  lightning  some  years  since,  and  the  upper  portion  de- 
stroyed. The  interior  has  all  the  impressive  grandeur  of  the 
European  cathedrals.  It  was  formerly  enormously  rich  in  or- 
naments, but  these  have  long  since  disappeared.  Numerous 
tawdry,  tinseled  figures  of  the  Virgin  and  some  of  the  saints 
stand  now  in  the  grand  old  niches,  with  here  and  there  an  exe- 
crable daub  of  a painting,  as  if  in  mockery  of  its  ancient  splen- 
dor. High  aloft  in  a small  stone  gallery  was  placed  a broken- 
winded  organ ; its  wheezing  and  discordant  strains  filled  the 
building  with  inharmonious  echoes.  The  pavement  was  cover- 
ed here  and  there  with  motionless  figures,  kneeling  with  faces 
toward  the  great  altar,  near  which  two  priests  were  reading 
some  ceremony.  The  great  bells  of  the  church,  pealing  forth  at 
intervals  their  heavy  notes,  sounded  with  dead  and  muffled 
tone  between  these  ponderous  walls.  The  church  of  La  Mer- 
ced is  another  imposing  structure,  but  by  no  means  comparing 
to  San  Pedro.  Here  we  found  some  fifty  worshipers,  whose 
low-muttered  prayers  sounded  like  the  hum  of  thousands  of 
buzzing  insects  among  the  arches.  The  churches  of  Calvario, 


96 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


San  Juan  de  Dios,  San  Francisco,  and  Guadalupe  are,  among 
some  others,  worthy  of  notice.  At  Subtiaba,  an  Indian  village 
near  the  city,  there  is  also  a well-built  church,  and  these  com- 
prise all  in  or  around  the  city  likely  to  attract  attention. 

My  letters  of  introduction  included  several  to  Castellon,  the 
Provisional  Director  of  the  state.  On  the  morning  after  my 
arrival  I called  upon  him.  The  Casa  del  Gobierno  was  situa- 
ted in  a narrow  street  leading  from  the  Plaza  de  la  Merced.  A 
guard  presented  arms  as  I entered,  and  a well-dressed  attache  of 
the  place,  in  reply  to  my  inquiry,  said  the  President  was  break- 
fasting, and  invited  me  to  a seat  near  the  corridor.  The  room 
was  dark  and  cool,  stone  paved,  without  ornaments,  and  perfect- 
ly silent.  In  ten  minutes  a door  at  the  opposite  end  of  the 
room  opened,  and  I was  requested  to  enter  an  adjoining  apart- 
ment, where  having  seated  myself,  in  another  moment  the  Pres- 
ident came  in.  I introduced  myself,  and  presented  my  letters, 
at  which  he  glanced  for  a moment,  and  then  taking  out  his  ta- 
baquero , offered  me  a cigar.  Castellon  appeared  a little  under 
forty  years  of  age.  In  stature  he  was  short,  inclined  to  corpu- 
lency, with  a fine,  open,  expressive  face,  the  pleasing  qualities 
of  which  were  much  enhanced  by  a constant  smile,  almost  fem- 
inine in  its  sweetness.  For  a wonder,  lie  had  light,  straight 
hair,  a fair  complexion,  and  blue  eyes.  He  was  dressed  in 
snow-white  pants,  a blue  coat  with  metal  buttons,  and  wore  a 
profusion  of  jewelry.  After  half  an  hour’s  interview,  I thought 
him  the  most  polished  gentleman  I had  met  in  the  country. 
As  an  orator,  he  was  not  excelled  in  the  state ; and  as  a diplo- 
matist, his  powers  have  been  brought  into  prominent  notice  in 
his  advocacy  of  the  rights  of  Nicaragua  against  the  pretensions 
of  England  while  minister  to  that  country.  He  kindly  offered 
me  letters  of  introduction  to  President  Cabanas,  of  Honduras, 
and  to  other  distinguished  families  in  that  republic.  The  des- 
pacho  in  which  we  were  seated  was  the  head-quarters  of  the 
actual  government.  It  contained  two  tables,  with  red  damask 
covers,  several  chairs,  and,  as  usual,  a hammock.  These  com- 
prised the  furniture  of  the  apartment. 

As  I left  the  room,  the  President  assured  me  of  his  particular 
favor,  and  hinted  that  I might  be  of  service  to  him  before  leav- 
ing the  state.  Of  course,  I placed  myself  “ at  his  disposition." 


VISIT  TO  THE  “HEAD  OF  THE  CHUKCH.”  97 

In  the  sala  I met  Senor  Jesus  Barca,  newly  appointed  Ministro 
de  Helaciones , to  whom  I delivered  my  dispatches  and  letters. 
He  was  a short,  active  little  gentleman,  with  skin  dried  to 
parchment,  and  the  blackest  and  most  piercing  eyes  I had  yet 
encountered  among  this  dark-eyed  race.  He  promised  me  a 
special  passport,  which  he  said  would  serve  me  day  or  night 
any  where  in  the  republic.  While  conversing  we  were  joined 
by  another  government  official,  Senor  Pablo  Caravajal,  Minister 
of  War  and  Finance.  He  was  as  profuse  in  compliments  as 
my  other  newly-made  friends,  and  placed  himself  and  “ poor 
house”  at  my  disposal. 

This  last  is  a matter  of  custom  in  all  Spanish  America.  An 
expression  of  admiration  bestowed  upon  a horse,  saddle,  house, 
or  article  of  jewelry,  generally  elicits  the  reply,  “ Es  de  Vd., 
senor”  or,  “It  is  at  your  service,  sir.” 

Foreigners  sometimes  construe  this  pretty  little  practice  lit- 
erally, very  much  to  the  chagrin  of  the  punctilious  Don. 

Most  of  the  members  of  the  new  government  to  whom  I was 
introduced  looked  haggard  and  overworked.  They,  at  least, 
were  not  amenable  to  the  charge  of  laziness  commonly  laid  at 
the  door  of  the  Central  American.  This  careworn  expression 
struck  me  as  the  characteristic  feature  of  public  men  in  the 
country.  The  amount  of  labor  and  correspondence,  added  to 
the  debilitating  effect  of  the  climate,  seems  to  tell  upon  natives 
as  well  as  foreigners. 

Before  leaving  California,  I had  received  from  a friend  a land 
letter  of  introduction  to  Don  Jorje  Viteri,  Bishop  of  Leon.  On 
my  arrival,  I learned  he  had  been  dead  several  months,  and,  be- 
ing desirous  of  making  my  peace  with  the  head  of  the  Church, 
I determined  to  call  upon  his  successor. 

A fat  little  girl,  barefooted,  and  half-frightened  at  the  appear- 
ance of  a stranger,  ushered  me  into  the  sala  of  the  padre.  Aft- 
er a few  minutes’  delay  she  returned,  and  said  the  padre  was 
asleep,  but  advised  me  to  leave  my  letter  and  call  later.  On 
my  return,  two  hours  afterward,  she  handed  it  to  me  unopened, 
saying  that  her  master  never  opened  notes  addressed  to  dead 
men,  and  wondered  I had  not  ascertained  in  el  Norte  the  death 
of  the  bishop.  I found  I had  offended  by  my  ignorance  of  ec- 
clesiastical forms,  and  departed  a wiser  man,  but  without  seeing 

G 


98 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  head  of  the  Church.  A day  or  two  afterward  I met  the 
old  gentleman  waddling  home  from  mass,  and,  much  to  my  sur- 
prise, he  advanced  and  addressed  me,  proffering  a cigarro  by 
way  of  breaking  the  ice.  I found  him  an  agreeable,  well-edu- 
cated man,  and  by  no  means  the  bigoted  churchman  I had  ex- 
pected. My  fault  consisted  in  not  knowing  that  the  defunct 
dignitary  had  been  succeeded  by  so  distinguished  a personage. 

While  in  Leon  I received  several  invitations  from  families, 
and  met  some  of  the  most  distingue  of  the  city.  There  seems 
but  little  difference  between  the  manner  of  living  here  and  in 
Mexico.  At  the  house  of  Senor  Nolberto  Ramierez,  former 
president  of  the  state,  I found  that  gentleman  living  in  retire- 
ment from  the  cares  of  public  life.  He  made  particular  inqui- 
ries regarding  the  political  affairs  of  California,  and  showed  a 
degree  of  interest  in  the  progress  of  the  new  state,  and  a minute- 
ness of  information  I was  unprepared  to  meet.  He  predicted 
the  eventual  separation  of  California  from  the  Union,  and  was 
so  positive  on  the  subject  that  I waived  the  argument.  He  was 
extremely  cautious  in  conversing  upon  the  affairs  of  Nicaragua. 
He  has  the  reputation  of  having  devoted  a lifetime  to  the  ar- 
rangement of  the  political  turmoils  of  the  state,  and  has  never 
been  suspected  of  harboring  other  than  the  most  liberal  and 
patriotic  views  toward  the  country.  He  was  tall  and  command- 
ing in  stature,  with  strongly-marked  features,  a serious,  thought- 
ful cast  of  countenance,  and  with  a natural  elegance  of  address 
which  is  wanting  in  very  few  of  the  leading  men  of  Central 
America.  The  administration  of  Ramierez  is  said  to  have  been 
the  most  politic  and  peaceful  since  the  independence.  Had  the 
Castellon  cause  succeeded,  he  would  doubtless  have  resumed 
the  presidency  on  the  re-establishment  of  peace. 

Among  the  most  cordial  of  the  friends  I made  in  Leon  was 
Don  Francisco  Diaz  Zapato,  whose  open  frankness  of  character 
never  fails  to  win  the  heart  at  the  first  interview.  To  his  kind- 
ness I was  indebted  for  a paragraph  in  the  JVueva  Era , the  dem- 
ocratic organ  of  the  state,  setting  forth  the  objects  of  my  visit, 
and  which  I afterward  found  had  already  reached  the  interior  of 
Honduras  before  my  arrival  there.  At  his  residence  I was  in- 
troduced to  several  young  ladies,  whose  accomplishments  and 
graces  took  me  back  to  the  scenes  of  my  native  land.  One  of 


SOCIETY  IN  LEON. 


99 


THE  BRIDGE  OF  LEON. 


them  performed  a number  of  waltzes  and  operatic  airs  on  the 
piano  with  a brilliancy  and  taste  hardly  to  be  expected  in  Nica- 
ragua, where  the  means  of  musical  instruction  are  so  meagre. 

The  principal  topics  in  society  seemed  to  be  the  probable  re- 
sult of  the  siege  of  Granada  and  the  revolution  in  general.  In 
these  conversations  the  ladies  usually  joined.  There  seemed  a 
universal  fear  among  them  that  some  of  the  frightful  scenes  of 
the  old  war  might  at  any  time  be  renewed — a fear  not  entirely 
groundless  in  the  event  of  a change  in  the  tide  of  affairs  against 
the  Castellon  cause.  So  prevalent  was  this  idea,  that  Dr.  Liv- 
ingston’s house  was  made  the  receptacle  of  trunks  of  valuables, 
stored  there  with  the  impression  that  under  the  American  flag 
they  would  be  safe.  While  sitting  in  Sehor  Zapato’s  house,  the 
news  arrived  that  one  of  the  principal  churches  in  Granada  had 
lost  its  tower  in  the  bombardment. 

Returning  one  day  to  the  house,  I found  a note  addressed  to 
me  containing  an  invitation  from  Castellon  to  call  at  the  Casa 
del  Gobierno  on  important  business.  Arrived  there,  I found  a 
licenciado  of  San  Salvador,  who  was  introduced  as  a leading 
member  of  the  Liberal  party.  A number  of  civil  and  military 
persons  were  seated  at  a table,  on  which  were  spread  books, 
pens,  and  paper,  while  one  was  endeavoring  to  explain  to  the 
others  some  knotty  question  in  the  science  of  gunnery.  They 
desired  of  me  an  estimate  of  the  cost,  in  California,  of  two 


100 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


mortars,  two  hundred  bombs,  and  tbe  necessary  accoutrements. 
Though  not  perfectly  “ posted”  in  such  matters,  I made  the  cal- 
culation, and,  in  the  course  of  conversation,  was  surprised  to 
learn  that  not  one  in  the  army  was  acquainted  with  the  method 
of  tiring  a mortar,  or  with  the  slightest  matters  pertaining  to 
their  use,  and  I now  saw  why  the  services  of  foreigners  were 
held  in  such  repute.  Before  I left  the  room  a liberal  offer  was 
made  me  to  abandon  my  enterprise  and  join  the  Democratic 
army.  I had,  however,  long  since  determined  to  eschew  any 
part  in  the  dissensions  of  the  country,  at  least  until  I arrived  at 
Tegucigalpa. 

My  stay  in  Leon  was  sufficiently  long  to  enable  me  to  see  its 
“ lions,”  and  to  obtain  a pretty  correct  estimate  of  the  character- 
istics of  its  inhabitants.  I found  them  imbued  with  that  for- 
mality and  politeness  always  marking  the  Spaniard,  sociable, 
obliging,  and,  though  alive  to  the  unhappy  condition  of  their 
country,  extremely  sensitive  as  to  the  opinion  expressed  by  for- 
eigners. A dozen  times  I was  asked  how  I liked  Nicaragua, 
and  as  I had  landed  in  Central  America  determined  to  preserve 
my  temper  and  find  no  fault  among  the  people,  I often  gratified 
my  audience  with  a scrap  of  praise,  which  seemed  not  the  less 
acceptable  for  being  not  wholly  deserved.  To  judge  from  the 
articles  appearing  in  the  newspaper  of  the  country,  and  the  nu- 
merous political  pamphlets  and  hand-bills  published  and  left  at 
the  doors,  there  seemed  no  lack  of  patriotism.  From  the  pres- 
ident to  the  merest  vagabond,  every  inhabitant  may  express  his 
ideas  upon  the  state  of  the  country,  and  every  body  that  can  do 
so  reads  all  that  is  published.  The  press  is  not  without  its  ef- 
fect in  Central  America. 

At  the  house  of  an  acquaintance  I observed  the  iron  gratings 
wrenched  off  from  the  street  windows.  This  I learned  had  been 
done  by  the  Democratic  army,  wlio  had  cut  these  bars  into  slugs, 
which,  being  sent  to  the  Jalteva,  were  fired  into  Granada.  Am- 
munition, however, was  now  failing,  and  among  other  propositions 
made  to  me  was  a return  to  California  to  purchase  some  tons  of 
gunpowder  for  the  government.  Had  I been  disposed  to  become 
the  commissioner,  my  remuneration  would  probably  have  con- 
sisted of  thanks,  judging  from  the  case  of  Captain  Morton,  an 
American  commanding  a schooner  in  the  public  service,  who  had 


SEARCHING  FOR  TRAVELING  GEAR. 


101 


been  waiting  in  vain  several  months  for  his  pay;  and  also  of 
several  other  foreigners  who,  venturing  to  risk  their  property  and 
services,  had  been  wearied  and  disgusted  with  the  uniform  reply, 
“ Vienes  mananci 

By  the  advice  of  my  friend  the  doctor,  I determined  to  pur- 
chase in  Leon  the  necessary  articles  for  my  mountain  traveling 
through  Honduras.  In  California,  afriend  who  had  passed  through 
Nicaragua  in  1851  had  discouraged  me  from  taking  my  excel- 
lent Mexican  saddle,  assuring  me  that  all  the  horse  paraphernalia 
could  be  obtained  in  Nicaragua  without  trouble.  I had  hardly 
arrived  at  San  Juan  del  Sur  when  I discovered  the  fallacy  of 
such  an  idea,  and  I had  to  regret  for  eight  months  afterward  not 
having  provided  myself  with  this  necessary  article.  Saddles  in 
the  interior  of  Central  America  are  not  to  be  obtained.  An 
apology  for  the  article,  the  albardo,  may  be  bought  for  from  six 
to  eight  dollars,  but  in  shape,  material,  and  comfort  entirely  un- 
like the  famous  Mexican  saddle,  while  for  mountain  traveling  it 
is  even  less  convenient  than  the  English  or  American  patterns. 
Every  gentleman  throughout  the  country  owns  his  saddle,  which 
it  is  considered  almost  impolite  to  attempt  to  borrow,  while  few 
are  found  exposed  for  sale  in  the  shops.  In  Nicaragua,  the 
same  license  (to  call  it  by  a no  severer  word)  which  seized  upon 
mules  and  horses  wherever  they  were  found,  appropriated  also 
the  saddles  and  albarclos  ; consequently,  it  was  with  the  great- 
est difficulty  one  could  be  obtained.  A whole  day  was  spent  in 
hunting  up,  with  the  help  of  a couple  of  the  doctor’s  servants, 
the  common  gear  of  a horse.  Feed  was  equally  scarce,  and  it 
being  dangerous  to  put  horses  to  pasture,  it  was  necessary  to 
fodder  them  at  home,  for  which  small  bundles  of  sacate , at  a me- 
dio a bunch,  were  purchased.  I enter  into  these  details  that  the 
future  traveler  may  know  what  to  expect  in  Nicaragua. 

On  the  day  previous  to  my  departure,  one  of  the  heaviest 
rain-storms  I ever  experienced  passed  over  Leon.  The  houses 
across  the  street  were  but  faintly  seen  through  the  falling  water, 
and  the  thoroughfares  were  running  streams.  This  was  pro- 
nounced the  severest  of  the  year.  The  quantity  of  rain  descend- 
ing in  a season  is  very  great.  At  the  hacienda  of  Polvon,  own- 
ed by  Dr.  Livingston,  where  he  kept  a rain  gauge,  there  fell,  in 
1853,  from  September  9th  to  November  19th,  eighty  inches  of 


102 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


water.  Eighteen  inches  fell  in  one  day.  In  Chinandega  rain 
is  said  to  have  fallen  three  feet  in  seven  days,  and  the  doctor 
calculated  that  one  hundred  and  fifty  inches  often  falls  in  one 
rainy  season  of  six  months.  In  the  mountainous  parts  of  the 
country,  the  suddenness  of  the  rains  sometimes  swells  the  river 
to  such  an  extent  as  to  detain  the  government  couriers  many 
hours.  With  the  cessation  of  the  storm  the  streams  usually 
decrease. 

On  the  same  evening  Senor  Barca  called  with  a special  pass- 
port. The  senor  had  hardly  taken  his  leave  when  the  boy 
Chico  entered,  with  a blank  face,  quietly  remarking  that,  while 
he  was  leading  the  horses  to  water,  they  had  been  pounced 
upon,  and  he  had  only  escaped  impressment  by  dodging  be- 
tween the  animals  and  making  the  best  of  his  way  to  the  house. 
I was  already  giving  up  the  beasts  for  lost,  when  the  doctor, 
hearing  the  story,  took  Chico  out  with  him,  and,  after  long  and 
severe  expostulation  with  the  commanding  officer,  succeeded  in 
regaining  the  property. 

On  the  following  morning,  before  daylight,  I was  awakened 
by  a pulling  at  my  sleeve,  and,  opening  my  eyes,  saw  Pablo  be- 
side the  hammock  with  a lighted  candle  and  a cup  of  delicious 
coffee.  In  a few  minutes  the  whole  house  was  astir;  the  mules 
were  saddled,  our  “good-by’s”  said,  and,  accompanied  by  the 
doctor  and  another  resident  of  Leon,  we  issued  into  the  silent 
street  just  as  a streak  of  light  betokened  dawn.  The  only 
sounds  as  we  passed  slowly  out  of  the  city  were  the  distant 
note  of  the  deep-toned  bell,  and  the  faint  cry  of  “ Alerto !”  of 
the  watchful  sentinel.  The  air  was  soft  and  delicious.  The 
hum  of  thousands  of  insects,  rising  among  the  dark  woods 
through  which  we  passed,  created  a drowsy  music  in  accordance 
with  the  stillness  of  the  hour.  As  the  eastern  horizon  became 
tinted  with  the  coming  dawn,  a scene  was  gradually  revealed 
such  as  I had  never  before  witnessed. 

We  were  gradually  ascending  a rise  in  the  road  which  over- 
looked a vast  expanse  of  plain,  covered  with  innumerable  vari- 
eties of  trees,  presenting  as  yet,  in  the  faint  morning  light,  but 
an  indistinct  mass  of  verdure.  Looking  westward,  with  our 
backs  to  the  crimson  horizon,  we  counted  five  lofty  volcanoes 
rising  in  majestic  beauty,  their  tops  thinly  mantled  with  gray 


SUNRISE  ON  THE  PLAIN  OF  LEON. 


103 


clouds.  Their  conical  forms,  perfectly  defined,  appeared  of  an 
intense  blue,  which,  either  from  the  scintillating  glow  of  the 
eastern  sky,  or  the  roseate  tints  among  the  wet  foliage  covering 
their  sides,  seemed  to  sparkle  and  blink  in  the  morning  light 
like  great  slopes  of  blue  velvet  interwoven  with  brilliants.  This 
opalescent  effect  lasted  but  a few  minutes,  when,  as  the  sun  be- 
gan to  illumine  the  landscape  below,  the  flickering  azure  of  the 
mountains  gave  place  to  a rich  green,  and  every  peak  stood  out 
in  sharp  relief  against  the  sky.  The  eye  could  never  weary  of 
the  surpassing  loveliness  of  such  a scene.  The  entire  landscape 
possessed  a luxurious  softness  and  delicacy  of  outline,  a round- 
ed, undulating  beauty,  such  as  no  description  can  paint.  In- 
sensibly we  paused  and  gazed,  as  upon  the  transitions  of  a dis- 
solving view.  Morning,  casting  aside  her  dewy  mantle,  and 
mingling  with  the  “ sapphire  blaze”  of  day ! 

Rare  birds  flitted  along  the  road,  and  flocks  of  the  lora  real , 
or  yellow-crested  parrot,  surprised  by  the  sudden  appearance  of 
our  little  cavalcade,  fluttered  noisily  from  amid  the  overhanging 
trees,  or  peeped  at  us  slyly  from  out  the  rank  leaves,  with  whose 
emerald  hues  their  own  bright  plumage  blended  and  vied.  The 
first  four  hours’  ride  was  the  most  delicious  of  my  life.  I could 
not  help  being  charmed.  Even  my  companions,  used  as  they 
were  to  the  scene,  admitted  they  had  seldom  breathed  a purer 
air  or  traveled  in  a more  delightful  morning.  At  eight  o’clock 
we  reached  Posultega,  where  we  breakfasted  at  the  house  of 


104 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Senora  Ramierez,  and  again  crossing  the  little  river  of  Quesai- 
huague,  we  passed  Chichigalpa  at  a round  gallop,  and  re-enter- 
ed Chinandega,  having  met  hut  four  persons  on  the  road.  My 
companions  proceeded  to  the  house  of  a friend,  while  Pablo  and 
myself  dismounted  at  the  door  of  Sehor  Montealegre’s  hospita- 
ble mansion,  where,  as  before,  the  whole  household  turned  out 
to  receive  me. 

On  entering  the  house,  I was  about  taking  off  my  hat  to  en- 
joy the  welcome  coolness  of  the  veranda,  when  the  ladies  ut- 
tered a general  cry,  insisting  that  an  attack  of  calentura  would 
certainly  succeed  so  great  an  imprudence,  as  also  from  my  at- 
tempting to  use  cold  water  on  my  hands  while  heated  with  rid- 
ing. A calabash  of  delicious  tiste,  cool  from  the  earthen  jar  in 
which  it  is  kept,  and  a stretch  at  full  length  in  the  hammock, 
served  to  make  me  thoroughly  comfortable.  This  beverage  is 
drunk  throughout  Nicaragua,  and  in  some  portions  of  Honduras. 
It  is  made  to  order  in  a long  calabash  taken  from  a tree  (the 
name  of  which  I have  lost)  growing  in  clusters  in  all  parts  of 
the  state.  A quantity  of  cacao,  sugar,  and  pounded  parched 
corn  are  mixed  carefully  together,  and  the  rustic  goblet  filled 
to  the  brim  with  cool  water.  A curiously-carved  muddler  is 
then  used  to  stir  them  up,  and  the  calabash,  placed  in  the  folds 
of  a napkin  to  maintain  an  upright  position,  is  handed  to  the 
thirsty  recipient,  the  sides  of  the  cup  distilling  little  globules  of 
coolness.  I never  failed,  when  traveling,  to  procure  a cup  of 
tiste  when  it  was  to  be  had.  Its  delicate  flavor  and  refreshing 
qualities  are  admitted  by  all  who  have  tasted  it. 

The  oranges  of  Chinandega  are  celebrated  in  all  Central 
America.  They  have  a peculiar  sweetness  not  possessed  by 
any  others.  The  white  pine-apples  of  this  vicinity  are  also  fa- 
mous ; they  are  descended  from  the  Guayaquil  pines,  which 
were  introduced  into  Nicaragua  some  years  since,  and  are  far 
superior  to  those  of  the  country.  The  fruits  are  those  found  in 
most  intertropical  latitudes,  and  are  universally  known  ; but  for 
delicious  flavor,  and  the  quality  which  does  not  bring  disgust 
with  satiety,  commend  me  to  the  Chinandega  orange  (the  blood), 
the  nispero,  the  guineo,  guava,  and  zapote.  The  good  senora, 
having  learned  my  taste,  took  care  that  a bountiful  supply  of 
these  luscious  fruits  should  be  always  within  my  reach.  In- 


GUERRILLAS. 


105 


deed,  it  seemed  tliat  nothing  conducive  to  my  comfort  was  omit- 
ted by  my  kind  entertainers.  If  I wished  to  ride,  I had  hut  to 
take  my  choice  from  among  several  valuable  andadoras.  A 
step  out  into  the  fierce  rays  of  the  noonday  sun,  and  Pablo  was 
sure  to  follow  me  with  a,n  umbrella,  and  a hint  from  la  senora 
that  the  cool  of  the  evening  was  healthier  for  a promenade. 
The  same  careful  attendant,  by  order  of  Don  Mariano,  came  after 
me  to  the  bath  with  relays  of  towels  and  other  comforts.  During 
my  absence  at  Leon  another  demand  for  $5000  had  been  made 
on  Senor  Montealegre.  I found  him  in  great  trouble,  and  en- 
tertaining serious  thoughts  of  leaving  the  country  with  what 
remained  of  his  worldly  goods.  Even  the  stanch  adherence  he 
had  ever  shown  to  the  Democratic  cause  was  daily  lessening 
under  the  infamous  robberies  practiced  upon  him.  Other  fami- 
lies were  sufferers  to  a nearly  equal  extent.  With  the  name 
and  form  of  a republic,  there  is  actually  as  little  security  for  life 
and  property  in  Nicaragua  as  in  despotic  Russia  itself. 

Lounging  in  my  hammock  on  a still,  drowsy  afternoon,  I was 
aroused  by  an  unusual  commotion,  and  cries  of  el  enemigo  ! fol- 
lowed by  the  clapping  to  of  doors  and  windows  along  the  street, 
and  the  hurrying  to  and  fro  of  women.  In  a few  minutes  the 
house  was  darkened  and  firmly  barricaded.  Our  little  party 
proceeded  into  the  street,  where  we  were  presently  surrounded 
by  a crowd  of  acquaintances,  some  advocating  a hasty  retreat 
out  of  the  town,  and  others  running  distractedly  about,  with  ap- 
parently no  settled  object  in  view.  The  alarm  came  from  two 
frightened  horsemen,  who  rode  into  town  with  the  news  that 
Cacherula,  a famous  guerrilla  chieftain  attached  to  the  Cha- 
morro cause,  was  about  attacking  the  place  with  three  hundred 
men.  In  ten  minutes  every  house  and  tiendct  was  shut.  Wom- 
en stood  at  the  half-opened  doors,  and  signaled  to  each  other  by 
clapping  the  hands.  The  streets  were  deserted  save  by  a few 
mounted  citizens  strongly  compromised  on  the  Castellon  side, 
and  ready  to  fly  at  the  first  confirmation  of  the  report.  The 
respective  flags  were  raised  above  each  consular  residence,  and 
from  the  Plaza  came  the  rapid  beat  of  the  little  drum,  calling 
the  garrison  to  arms.  Relying  on  our  foreign  appearance  and 
non-committal  position  to  protect  us,  but  buckling  on  a formi- 
dable array  of  Colt’s  persuaders,  we  walked  around  to  where  Dr. 


106 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Livingston  and  a few  foreign  friends  had  raised  the  American 
flag.  A similar  protection,  my  own  private  property,  was  al- 
ready floating  over  the  door  of  my  host,  who,  with  the  females 
of  the  house,  regarded  its  flaunting  folds  as  an  aegis  of  safety. 
My  friends  laughed  at  our  armament,  and  said  this  was  alarm 
No.  20  since  the  commencement  of  the  revolution.  While  we 
were  talking,  a squad  of  troopers,  apparently  full  of  fight,  dash- 
ed past,  headed  by  a determined-looking  officer,  who  sat  his 
horse  like  a statue.  Every  body  expected  an  action  ; but,  after 
an  hour’s  suspense,  they  returned,  and  the  flags  were  pulled 
down,  the  houses  and  tiendas  reopened,  and  the  streets  toward 
evening  became  again  filled  with  groups  of  knowing  politicians, 
commenting  on  the  events  of  the  day.  As  on  former  occasions, 
a large  amount  of  valuables  had  been  carried  with  all  speed  to 
the  houses  of  the  American  and  English  consuls,  but  were  re- 
turned the  same  night.  Life  in  Nicaragua  in  revolutionary 
times  is  at  best  a succession  of  alarms. 

Visits  in  Chinandega  are  usually  made  after  sunset,  when  the 
daily  household  cares  are  supposed  to  be  over.  At  this  time 
■the  senorita  issues  from  the  house,  with  her  raven  hair  simply 
plaited  and  tastefully  put  up  behind  the  head  (the  Spanish  wom- 
en are  usually  faultless  in  their  manner  of  arranging  the  hair). 
A light  and  often  gaudy  shawl  is  thrown  becomingly  over  the 
shoulders,  and  drawn  tightly  in  around  the  waist.  Not  to  have 
small  hands  and  feet,  even  among  the  working  people,  is  an  ex- 
ception to  the  rule,  and  it  is  rare  to  see  an  awkward  gait  among 
the  Central  American  women.  Every  one  who  has  passed 
through  the  country  can  not  fail  to  have  remarked  their  upright 
forms,  and  easy,  graceful  step.  With  the  lower  classes  this  is 
caused  by  the  never-ending  task  of  bearing  water-jars  upon  the 
head,  an  erect  posture  enabling  them  the  better  to  balance  the 
load.  An  elasticity  is  also  acquired  by  stepping  over  the  large 
pavements  of  the  streets,  requiring  the  pedestrian  to  exert  the 
muscles  of  the  toes  and  calf. 

On  entering  each  other’s  houses,  the  ladies  usually  go  through 
a very  pretty  little  pantomime,  something  like  an  embrace,  but 
ending  by  patting  each  other  gently  over  the  shoulders.  This 
done,  the  visitors  seat  themselves  around  the  room,  and  the  con- 
versation commences  at  once  and  without  restraint.  The  cigar - 


SEPARATION  FROM  OLD  COMPANIONS. 


107 


to  is  generally  smoked  by  all  as  a sort  of  incentive  to  sociabili- 
ty. There  is,  however,  a tendency  to  formality,  and  a stiff,  up- 
right manner  of  sitting  around  the  room,  and  one  misses  the 
style  of  the  really  accomplished  and  elegant  lady.  Among  the 
women  there  is  true  sincerity.  You  are  seldom  deceived  by 
them,  and  infidelity  is  rarer  than  the  habitual  defamers  of  Cen- 
tral American  women  would  lead  one  to  believe.  On  one  occa- 
sion, at  a reunion  in  the  sala  of  Sehor  Montealegre,  I was  intro- 
duced to  Don  Francisco  Morazan,  a natural  son  of  the  general. 
He  bore  some  traces  of  the  remarkable  man  from  whom  he  was 
descended,  but  in  character  was  as  different  as  night  from  day. 
General  Morazan  left  still  another  son,  a General  Iluis,  residing 
in  Tegucigalpa.  He  resembles  the  portraits  I have  seen  of  the 
father,  but  there  the  likeness  ceases.  It  rarely  happens  that  the 
stronger  traits  of  great  men  are  transmitted  to  their  descendants. 

While  awaiting  the  arrival  of  a package  of  introductory  let- 
ters, we  scorned  the  country  around  for  many  miles  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  Chinandega,  visiting  several  haciendas  and  small  towns, 
and  once  actually  starting  with  a guide  to  make  the  ascent  of 
El  Viejo,  which  some  of  our  resident  friends  asserted  had  never 
been  accomplished.  Circumstances,  however,  obliged  us  to  de- 
fer the  project.  The  arrival  of  the  expected  letters  at  last  en- 
abled us  to  proceed  with  our  original  expedition,  and  after  two 
days  of  consultation  an  arrangement  was  finally  effected  with 
my  two  companions,  and  it  was  decided  that  I should  proceed 
alone  into  Honduras,  the  observations  and  contracts  to  be  made 
tiiere  requiring  the  services  of  one  person  only.  I did  not  part 
from  my  friends  without  the  deepest  regret.  We  had  left  Cali- 
fornia together,  and  hitherto  shared  alike  the  pleasures  and  in- 
conveniences of  the  country.  To  the  attractions  of  agreeable 
company  they  added  the  warm  friendship  cemented  by  long 
acquaintance  in  the  early  days  of  Californian  life.  Still  there 
was  to  me  an  enchantment  in  venturing  alone  upon  the  secluded 
and  unexplored  region  I was  about  to  visit.  Fortified  with 
flattering  letters  to  the  principal  citizens  of  Honduras,  well  pro- 
vided with  doubloons,  and  confident  that  the  enterprise,  if  suc- 
cessful, would  possibly  open  a rich  mineral  district  to  American 
enterprise,  I looked  forward  with  pleasure  and  impatience  to  the 
continuance  of  my  travels. 


108 


EXPLOE ATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


The  Montealegres  took  upon  themselves  the  management  of 
my  outfit.  To  the  last  hour  of  my  stay  with  this  truly  benev- 
olent family  they  showed  a solicitude  in  my  welfare  I could 
scarcely  have  looked  for  away  from  home.  A hundred  little  ar- 
ticles were  obtained  for  me,  the  necessity  of  which  I could  never 
have  known.  Early  next  morning,  accompanied  by  the  sons  of 
Don  Carlos  Dardano,  who  were  now  returning  from  a four  years’ 
absence  to  their  home  at  Tigre  Island,  I left  the  house  where  I 
had  experienced  so  many  hospitalities,  and,  followed  by  a little 
tempest  of  good  wishes  from  the  family,  turned  the  heads  of  our 
horses  toward  the  embarcadero  of  Zempisque,  situated  at  the 
head  of  a small  tide-water  creek  connecting  with  the  Estero 
Real.  A ride  of  four  miles  brought  us  to  the  ancient  town  of 
Viejo,  the  head-quarters  of  the  bongo-men,  and  where,  the  night 
previous,  my  attentive  host  in  Chinandega  had  dispatched  a boy 
to  engage  a bongo  for  the  trip  to  Tigre  Island.  The  town,  which 
is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  state,  contains  some  three  thousand 
inhabitants.  Its  private  dwellings  are  constructed  better  than 
those  of  any  other  place  of  equal  size  in  Nicaragua,  and  it  is 
the  residence  of  many  old  and  wealthy  families.  Don  Mariano 
asserts  that  the  richest  men  in  Central  America  reside  there. 
The  church  of  La  Concepcion  is  the  principal  building,  and 
there  is  a smaller  one — Calvario. 

The  road  between  Chinandega  and  this  town  is  bordered  with 
the  usual  rank  growth  of  cactus  hedge,  separating  it  from  corn 
and  bean  plantations,  all  smiling  in  the  early  sunlight,  and  green 
as  a New  England  meadow  in  June.  From  here  to  Zempisque, 
a distance  of  fourteen  miles,  we  saw  but  one  house  ; the  road 
quickly  dwindling  into  a mere  mule-path,  leading  through  a 
thick  forest,  some  of  the  trees  six  feet  in  diameter.  The  woods 
appeared  to  have  been  recently  burned  over,  many  of  the  smaller 
growth,  standing  leafless  and  dead.  The  larger  ones  formed  a 
dense  shade  overhead,  among  which  several  large  red  monkeys 
were  swinging,  some  by  their  tails,  and  grimacing  horribly  at 
us  as  we  passed.  I could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  examin- 
ing one,  and  at  the  crack  of  my  rifle  a wounded  fellow  came 
tumbling  down  through  the  branches,  the  woods  resounding 
with  the  cries  of  his  companions.  One  of  his  legs  was  broken, 
and,  apart  from  his  almost  human  moans  and  real  tears,  his  ap- 


EL  PUERTO  DE  ZEMPISQUE. 


109 


pealing  glances,  as  if  reproaching  me  for  my  cruelty,  made  me 
resolve  never  again  to  enact  this  needless  tragedy.  His  trem- 
bling accents,  and  the  serio-comic  manner  with  which  he  put  his 
fingers  into  the  bloody  wound,  and  piteously  held  them  up  for 
me  to  gaze  at,  haunted  me  the  rest  of  the  day.  Pablo,  who  had 
come  with  us  to  lead  back  the  horses,  put  an  end  to  his  suffer- 
ings. I lacked  the  heart  to  finish  my  own  work.  The  entire 
northern  coast  of  Nicaragua  bordering  upon  the  Bay  of  Fonseca 
is  a wild  waste  of  country,  wooded  to  a certain  extent,  as  I have 
described  above,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  marshes  through 
which  the  lesser  esteros  make  their  way,  capable  of  producing, 
with  cultivation,  enough  to  supply  all  Central  America  with 
food.  But,  with  the  exception  of  the  great  cape  forming  the 
southern  “Pillar  of  Hercules”  of  the  Bay  of  Fonseca,  and  upon 
which  the  great  volcano  of  Consiguina  is  situated,  this  portion  of 
the  state  is  sparsely  inhabited  and  produces  nothing.  In  the  re- 
gion above  excepted  there  are  several  large  cattle  estates,  and  some 
successful  attempts  at  cultivation  have  been  made.  Before 
noon  we  arrived  at  a solitary  hut  of  poles  and  straw,  standing 

about  twenty  feet  above  a 
slough  of  despond,  in  the 
rank,  slimy  black  mud  of 
which,  it  being  low  tide, 
several  bongos  lay  keeled 
over  and  blistering  in  the 
sun.  We  had  arrived  at 
Zempisque.  A negro,  shiv- 
ering with  the  fever  and 
ague,  put  his  head  out  from 
beneath  a tattered  blanket 
at  the  door  of  the  hut,  and 
faintly  ejaculated  “ Adios , 
Caballeros  !”  His  filmy, 
blood-shot  eyes  and  atten- 
uated features  were  almost 
el  fueeto  de  zEiipisQuis.  ghastly  in  their  hideous- 

ness.  To  our  inquiries,  he  replied  that  we  had  yet  to  wait  four 
hours  for  the  return  of  tide. 

I can  not  now  recall  a picture  of  more  squalid  wretchedness 


110 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


than  was  here  presented.  The  dense  mangrove-trees,  in  which 
the  croaking  zopilote  sat  brooding  like  the  evil  genius  of  the 
place  over  the  miry  waste  below,  seemed  like  huge  skeletons, 
outstretching  like  arms  their  gaunt,  leafless  branches,  the  gnarl- 
ed roots  beneath  a representation  of  writhing  snakes.  This  idea 
was  assisted  by  an  incessant  indescribable  noise,  caused  by  the 
movements  of  myriads  of  crabs  scrabbling  in  the  reeky  slime. 
What  with  having  but  just  severed  the  last  chain  that  asso- 
ciated with  home,  the  dying  moans  of  the  monkey  which  would 
haunt  me,  and  the  desolation  of  this  frightful  place,  I now  expe- 
rienced my  first  twinge  of  genuine  disgust.  To  add  to  the  discom- 
forts, the  elder  Mr.  Dardano  was  taken  down  with  fever,  and  we 
had  scarcely  got  him  stretched  out  in  the  filthy  hut  when  the 
chubasco  came  on,  with  its  forked  lightnings  and  rattling  thun- 
der. The  dismal  solitude  of  the  locality,  the  downpour  of  rain, 
the  complaints  of  the  sick,  and  the  reflection  that  my  papers  and 
traveling  paraphernalia,  which  had  not  yet  arrived  in  the  careton, 
would  be  ready  soaked  to  hand,  combined  to  make  Zempisque 
a centre-point  for  future  horrors  and  never-failing  maledictions. 

The  rain  at  last  ceased,  and  in  its  stead  arose,  as  if  by  magic, 
clouds  of  musquitoes,  gnats,  and  infinitesimal  sand-flies,  in  such 
quantities  that  recollections  of  the  Rio  Grande,  Mississippi,  or 
Sacramento  pale  in  comparison.  The  screeching  cart  at  last 
arrived,  and  with  it  half  a dozen  sailors  from  Viejo,  who  de- 
liberately pulled  off  their  shirts  and  pants,  and,  wading  naked 
into  the  mud,  scrambled  on  board  the  largest  bongo  and  began 
bailing  her  out.  By  the  time  this  was  accomplished,  a small 
puddle  of  water  forming  in  the  lowest  part  of  the  mud  announced 
the  approach  of  the  flood  tide.  As  the  water  increased,  the 
bongo,  which  was  an  immense  “ dug-out”  of  guanacaste , was 
got  afloat,  and  our  baggage  put  into  her.  I inquired  the  name 
of  the  patron , and  a sullen,  pig-eyed  little  mulatto  presented 
himself  with  an  air  of  vast  importance,  remarking  that  he  was 
no  “ lake  sailor,”  as  he  contemptuously  denominated  the  navi- 
gators of  Lake  Nicaragua,  but  a true  pilot  and  mariner.  I pre- 
sume he  had  received  a portion  of  his  pay  in  Cliinandega,  as  he 
had  two  bottles  of  aguardiente,  which  he  carefully  stowed  away 
in  the  stern  sheets.  He  called  himself  Antonio,  time  out  of 
mind  the  name  of  Spanish  sailors.  At  heart  he  was  a kind. 


A CENTRAL  AMERICAN  PACKET. 


Ill 


faithful  fellow,  and  seemed  to  exercise  some  control  over  the 
rest.  About  two  hours  before  sunset,  the  “Almirante”  was 
hauled  to  the  bank,  and  all  hands  embarked.  She  was  at  least 
thirty  feet  long,  and  about  four  deep.  Over  the  stern  had  been 
placed  some  wooden  hoops,  bent  into  a semicircular  form,  serv- 
ing for  the  framework  to  a sort  of  awning,  which,  as  “ Toney” 
remarked,  with  an  air  of  no  little  pride,  he  had  constructed  with 
a special  view  to  the  comfort  of  passengers.  This  was  the  cab- 
in. On  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  a flooring  of  rough  planks  was 
placed  on  sticks  laid  athwart-ships,  to  protect  the  saloon  pas- 
sengers from  the  water  breaking  over  the  sides,  or  falling  into  the 
boat  in  the  way  of  rain.  Altogether,  our  vessel  was  a triumph 
of  Central  American  ship-building,  and  as  we  shoved  out  of  the 
little  enibarcadero  under  the  trees,  that  bent  quite  down  to  the 
gunwales,  all  hands  gave  an  exultant  whoop.  Once  under  way, 
ray  boy  Rafael  (an  Olanchano,  who  was  desirous  of  getting  home 
under  my  wing,  and  offered  his  services  for  the  privilege  of  ac- 
companying me)  dragged  out  a pair  of  alforjas , into  which  the 
bounteous  hand  of  the  Senora  Montealegre  had  crammed  all 
manner  of  edibles.  A repast  was  spread  on  the  bottom  of  the 
bongo,  and  all  seemed  complete  but  coffee.  I looked  at  Rafael, 
and  said  inquiringly, 


“ There  is  enough  of  it,”  replied  he,  “ but  it  can’t  be  cooked 
on  board.” 

“Why  not?” 

“There  is  no  kitchen!”  In  vain  did  I endeavor  to  explain 
to  him  that  a fire  might  be  lighted  on  the  ballast,  and  at  last 
compromised  the  matter  by  making  it  myself,  heating  the  water 
in  an  old  tin  vessel  used  as  a bailer.  The  crew  looked  on  in 
wonder. 

“Eight  years  have  I been  a bongo-man,”  said  Antonio,  “ and 
it  is  only  now  we  have  learned  from  Don  Guillermo  how  to  ob- 
tain a great  luxury.” 

They  resolved  to  store  up  the  lesson,  and,  I doubt  not,  have 
made  coffee  on  the  ballast  of  the  “Almirante”  ever  since,  if,  in- 
deed, she  is  not  capsized  and  lost  long  since. 

Equally  ignorant  were  Antonio  and  his  salt-water  companions 
of  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  in  the  estero.  Of  what  use  would 


112 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


it  be  to  him  to  cram  his  mind  with  such  dull  statistics  ? So,  in 
eight  years,  he  had  never  taken  the  trouble  to  look.  By  the 
water-marks  on  the  trees  I judged  it  to  be  eight  feet.  We  fol- 
lowed the  creek  for  about  five  miles,  preserving  for  that  distance 
a width  of  about  forty  feet,  and,  as  Antonio  assured  me,  of  suf- 
ficient depth  to  float  a large  vessel,  though  I imagine  that  my 
patron’s  idea  of  size  in  naval  architecture  was  limited  to  the 
different  grades  of  bongos.  The  water,  however,  looked  deep 
and  still,  and  I failed  to  reach  bottom  with  a sixteen-foot  oar. 
The  story  goes  that,  about  ten  years  since,  a bright  idea  struck 
one  of  the  Chinandega  merchants,  that,  by  opening  this  passage 
into  the  Estero  Beal  sufficiently  to  admit  large  vessels,  an  easy 
communication  could  be  had  with  the  Bay  of  Fonseca,  and  the 
trading  facilities  of  Northern  Nicaragua  be  much  improved. 
The  work  would  result  in  vast  benefit  to  all  concerned.  The 
labor  would  be  trifling,  and  the  expenses  next  to  nothing.  He 
pondered  over  the  subject  a year,  and  then  imparted  it  in  dread- 
ful secrecy  to  a few  neighbors,  through  whom  it  gradually  got 
noised  abroad.  A meeting  was  held,  and  a committee  appoint- 
ed to  examine  the  facilities  of  the  place,  who,  after  six  months 
of  patient  deliberation,  reported  favorably.  The  priests  decided 
that  it  would  be  a good  thing,  and  since  that  time  a meeting  has 
been  annually  held  to  ascertain  the  most  auspicious  moment  to 
commence  operations.  Without  the  establishment  of  a new  or- 
der of  affairs,  the  great-grandchildren  of  the  committee  will  con- 
tinue to  deliberate  on  this  project  during  the  next  century. 

A dense  thicket  of  mangle-trees  borders  the  creek,  through 
which  a schooner  of  fifty  tons  could  not  pass  without  hous- 
ing her  masts.  These  trees  are  draped  with  long  ear-drops,  or 
pendents,  hanging  gracefully  among  the  foliage.  Two  hours' 
pulling  brought  us,  just  at  sunset,  into  the  waters  of  the  great 
estero,  which  here  runs  north  and  south.  We  shot  out  of  the 
tortuous  little  river  through  whose  mazes  we  had  been  winding 
into  a fine  body  of  water,  apparently  two  hundred  yards  wide, 
and  of  sufficient  depth  to  admit  the  passage  of  vessels  of  large 
tonnage.  To  the  southward  the  estero  lost  itself,  without  any 
diminution  of  width,  among  a solid  thicket  of  green  foliage,  over 
the  tops  of  which  the  blue  heights  of  El  Viejo,  though  many 
leagues  distant,  loomed  up  against  the  evening  sky.  As  the 


uriant  vegetation  hung  in  shadowy  festoons  along  both  hanks 
of  the  estero,  spreading  in  heavy  green  drapery  upon  the  trees, 
an  impervious  wall  of  foliage,  the  lower  leaves  kissing  the  wa- 
ter’s brim,  and 'the  upper  dropping  in  graceful  curling  vines  a 
hundred  feet  above.  At  times,  as  we  glided  noiselessly  down 
with  the  tide,  little  vistas  opened,  revealing  leafy  bowers,  now 
fast  darkening  with  the  approaching  night.  Parasitical  plants, 
tasseled  with  gorgeous  flowers,  loaded  the  branches,  which,  as 
we  slowly  rounded  the  gradual  bends,  assumed  fanciful  shapes, 

H 


SCENES  ON  THE  ESTERO  REAL.  113 

sun  went  down,  a swarm  of  musquitoes  came  out  of  the  jungle 
and  bid  defiance  to  sleep.  Mr.  Dardano’s  fever  became  alarm- 
ingly violent,  and,  as  a last  resort,  I administered  pills  and  pow- 
ders given  me  by  my  friend,  Dr.  S. , an  hour  before  my  de- 
parture from  Chinandega.  That  done,  I placed  him  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bongo,  and,  lighting  a cigar,  stretched  myself  out  on 
a species  of  thwart,  and  between  the  paroxysms  of  the  mus- 
quitoes tried  to  enjoy  the  quiet  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  lux- 


114 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


now  resembling  the  massive  arches  of  some  old,  battlemented 
castle,  and  anon  changing  into  grotesque  caverns  and  grottoes. 

Night  came  slowly  on,  ushered  in  with  the  distant  premoni- 
tions of  an  approaching  squall.  Antonio  hauled  the  covering- 
closer  over  the  cabin,  and  prepared  for  the  deluge  of  rain,  forti- 
fying himself  meanwhile  with  a long  pull  at  the  aguardiente  bot- 
tle, an  auxiliary  which  he  kept  carefully  wrapped  up  in  his  dis- 
carded shirt  under  one  of  the  rough  boards  in  the  bottom  of  the 
bongo.  One  after  another,  the  brilliant  constellations  wheeling 
overhead  were  obscured  by  the  black-rimmed  clouds  rolling  up 
from  the  horizon,  until,  in  the  deepening  gloom,  our  bongo  seem- 
ed to  lie  in  the  midst  of  an  inland  lake  from  which  there  appear- 
ed no  outlet.  A gust  of  wind  preceded  a terrific  thunder-clap 
and  blinding  lightning,  when  the  drama  opened  with  the  fall  of 
sheets  of  water,  making  the  estero  an  expanse  of  hissing  bub- 
bles. The  crew  pulled  in  their  oars  and  crouched  shivering  un- 
der the  chosa,  the  fierce  wind  driving  the  rain  between  the  in- 
terstices of  its  wretched  roof  as  through  muslin.  We  were 
quickly  saturated,  and  the  sick  man,  covering  himself  with  a 
sorry  cloak,  moaned  piteously  in  the  darkness.  As  for  the  bag- 
gage, I had  long  since  resigned  all  hope  of  saving  it  from  the 
wet,  and  trusted  to  a stout  covering  of  canvas,  which  I had 
taken  the  precaution  to  have  fitted  to  my  trunks.  No  person 
intending  to  travel  in  Central  America  should  neglect  this,  as  it 
may  prove  for  many  days  the  only  protection  to  his  clothes  and 
papers.  As  the  tide  was  yet  ebbing,  we  continued  to  drift 
down,  passing  the  esteros  of  Nascagola  and  Palo  Blanco,  until, 
at  nine  o’clock,  we  were  opposite  a small,  dismal  military  sta- 
tion, known  as  the  Playa  Grande,  the  most  northerly  outpost  of 
Nicaragua.  Antonio  hoped  we  might  slip  by  in  the  darkness, 
and  escape  the  trouble  of  being  interrogated,  and  perhaps  search- 
ed. How  they  managed  to  descry  us,  except  by  the  flashes  of 
lightning,  I could  not  imagine ; but  when  opposite  the  landing, 
a loud  voice  hailed,  ordering  us  to  anchor,  no  boat  being  allowed 
to  pass  in  the  night.  Antonio  shouted  in  answer  that  “an  Amer- 
ican commissioner,  with  dispatches  from  Castellon  for  the  Hon- 
duras government,”  was  on  board.  Though  sopping  wet  and 
shaking  with  cold,  I could  not  help  laughing  aloud  at  his  readi- 
ness ; but  the  fib  was  of  no  avail ; in  a moment  after,  the  order 
came  to  anchor. 


A NIGHT  OF  ADVENTURES. 


115 


There  was  no  help  for  it,  so  th z patron  threw  overboard  his 
iron  apology  for  an  anchor,  and  in  obedience  to  the  voice,  whose 
owner  we  had  not  yet  seen,  I scrambled  into  a boat  which  An- 
tonio pulled  toward  us  from  the  end  of  the  landing,  taking  with 
me  a small  flask  of  excellent  brandy,  which  I hoped  might  be 
useful  in  dispensing  with  some  vexatious  delays.  The  rain 
still  poured  with  a spite  and  violence  truly  tropical.  A wretch- 
ed wharf,  constructed  of  cane-poles,  extended  from  the  bank, 
and,  feeling  my  way  in  the  darkness,  I had  just  gained  a footing 
on  the  slippery  poles,  and  was  reaching  forward  to  take  the  hand 
of  a guard,  who,  with  musket  glistening  with  rain  and  an  ancient 
lantern,  had  crawled  down  to  assist  me,  when  my  foot  slipped 
and  in  an  instant  I was  ten  feet  under  water.  This  was  the 
only  attempt  I made  at  sounding  the  Estero  Real,  and  I am  con- 
fident I did  not  get  bottom.  A dull  gurgling  of  waters,  and  a 
choking  sense  of  darkness  and  cold,  is  all  I remember,  until  I 
found  myself  clasping  the  end  of  a slippery  pole  extended  by 
the  soldier,  the  scene  attended  with  the  loud  chattering  of  the 
bongo-man  and  the  splashing  of  the  still  pouring  rain.  A short 
struggle,  and  I was  once  more  on  the  wharf,  soaked  to  the  skin, 
and  audibly  cursing  all  Nicaraguan  officials.  The  soldier  ejac- 
ulated a laconic  Caramba  ! and  led  the  way  about  twenty  yards 
to  a small  adobe  cabin,  with  a fire  flickering  on  the  ground,  and 
surrounded  by  puddles  of  water.  A hide  stretched  across  the 
“ weather”  side  served  for  a door  to  this  miserable  abode,  where 
were  squatted  half  a dozen  nearly  naked  creatures,  ghastly  with 
calentura , and  huddling  around  the  blaze  which  shone  into 
their  squalid  faces,  giving  them  the  appearance  of  spectres. 
They  answered  my  salutation  with  a universal  1 ‘Actios,  senor  /” 
while  from  an  adjoining  room  appeared  a dirty,  sleepy-looking 
officer,  who  announced  himself  as  the  commandante.  He  first 
examined  my  passport  from  the  minister,  now  well  soaked,  and 
then,  taking  the  lantern,  deliberately  surveyed  me  from  boots  to 
face,  uttering  a satisfied  grunt  in  conclusion. 

Under  other  circumstances  I should  have  kept  my  cognac 
concealed,  but  needing  it  myself  in  my  wet  condition,  I passed 
it,  after  paying  my  own  respects  to  it,  to  the  commandante, 
who,  placing  it  to  his  mouth,  drank  nearly  half  at  a gulp,  re- 
turning it  with  a sigh  of  pleasure  and  regret.  He  presented  me 


116 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


a paper  cigar,  and  ordered  the  soldier  to  escort  me  back  to  the 
boat.  I asked  him  his  name,  which  he  gave  with  a gratified 
smile,  but,  having  no  place  to  write  it  down,  it  escaped  me.  It 
was  needless  to  shift  my  clothes  during  the  continuance  of  the 
rain,  so,  wrapping  my  poncho  around  me,  I crept  under  the 
cabin,  while  the  natives  silently  pulled  up  the  anchor,  and  the 
bongo  continued  to  drift  toward  the  gulf. 

At  11  o’clock  the  tide  turned,  and  we  again  anchored.  The 
crew  crawled  into  the  cabin,  took  a pull  at  the  aguardiente 
bottle,  and  in  five  minutes  all  but  the  sick  man  and  myself  were 
sleeping  soundly,  despite  the  pattering  of  rain  on  the  roof,  the 
muttering  of  the  thunder,  or  the  stifling  atmosphere  of  the  little 
den.  When  I awoke  it  was  broad  daylight,  and  our  antique 
bark  was  leisurely  drifting  down  with  the  young  ebb.  A gen- 
tle breeze  was  blowing  from  the  southwest,  and  Antonio  prom- 
ised to  set  the  sail  when  we  had  passed  a reach  about  a mile 
beyond.  At  this  point  the  Estero  Real  forks,  and  discharges 
into  the  Bay  of  Fonseca  by  two  mouths,  the  westerly  one  being 
the  most  commonly  navigated  and  safest.  The  character  of  the 
country  had  changed  as  we  approached  the  bay.  The  dense 
woodland  we  had  passed  through  the  preceding  day  had  given 
place  to  low  alluvial  soil,  making  out  into  marshes  and  cut  into 
numerous  small  islands.  High,  rank  grass  stood  along  the 
banks  ; the  waters  were  agitated  with  the  jumping  of  fish,  which 
our  men  said  were  to  be  caught  in  nameless  varieties.  To  the 
eastward,  the  distant  mountains  of  Chontales,  enveloped  in  morn- 
ing mist,  peered  above  the  horizon,  and  a long,  low  stretch  of 
country,  rolling  gradually  up  to  the  westward,  was  pointed  out 
as  the  great  volcano  of  Consiguina,  which,  in  its  final  eruption 
in  1836,  tore  itself  to  pieces  and  became  extinct,  after  terrifying 
all  Central  America  and  part  of  Mexico.  The  morning  breeze 
blew  fresh  and  welcome,  driving  before  it  the  musquitoes  and 
sand-flies.  Here  and  there  an  alligator  stirred  the  reeds  in  some 
distant  spot,  and  the  notes  of  the  marsh  birds  rose  clear  on  the 
air,  reminding  me  of  the  brisk  autumn  mornings  of  New  En- 
gland, when,  gun  in  hand,  we  had  tramped  patiently  among  the 
damp  marshes,  and  listened  to  this  same  shrill  piping  with  an 
exhilaration  that  no  sweeter  songster  could  create. 

Arrived  “at  point  proposed,”  th z patron  steered  for  a grassy 


THE  ALMIRANTE  UNDER  SAUL. 


117 


bank,  where  he  made  fast,  and  proceeded  to  elevate  for  a mast 
a pole  which  had  occupied  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  bon- 
go. Shrouds  were  rove  and  set  up,  and  an  immense  sail  hoist- 
ed, a la  leg  of  mutton , to  the  halyard  blocks.  No  sooner  was 
the  sheet  hauled  aft  than  the  old  dug-out,  as  if  ashamed  of  her 
sluggish  movements  of  the  previous  day,  began  to  plunge  and 
jerk  at  her  moorings.  Antonio  rushed  aft,  kicking  over  every 
thing  in  his  way,  and  planting  his  foot  in  the  sick  man’s  stom- 
ach in  his  hurry ; the  crew  flew  about,  jabbering  like  monkeys  ; 
the  sail  gave  one  tremendous  flap ; away  came  the  stakes,  and, 
with  a yell  from  all  hands,  in  which  my  own  voice  was  not  the 
weakest  instrument,  the  old  “ Almirante”  dashed  away  toward 
the  tumbling  waters  of  the  broad  gulf  as  if  in  tow  of  a locomo- 
tive. I was  astonished  at  her  speed.  The  sick  man  raised  his 
visage  above  the  gunwale,  stirred  into  transient  life  by  the  ex- 
ultant racket,  but  looked  dismally  ahead  to  the  horizon  of  tum- 
bling waves,  toward  which  we  were  flying  like  an  arrow.  The 
“Almirante,”  with  a fair  wind,  steered  wild,  and  Antonio  cast 
wistful  glances  seaward,  and  owned  his  regret  at  not  having 
taken  my  advice  at  Zempisque,  and  added  a ton  or  two  to  the 
ballast. 

Rafael,  the  Olanchano,  had  never  seen  salt  water  before. 
The  poor  fellow  clung  convulsively  to  the  gunwale,  alternately 
gazing  at  the  staggering  motion  of  the  bongo,  and  inquiringly 
into  my  face.  I certainly  did  ask  myself  how  such  a spread 
of  canvas  was  to  be  got  in  during  a chubasco  / but  the  confident 
air  of  Antonio  dispelled  my  doubts,  and,  satisfied  that  all  was 
right,  I lay  down,  but  with  a dim  foreboding  that  sleep  would 
not  be  so  easy  a matter  in  the  gulf,  should  the  present  breeze 
continue.  Onward  we  flew,  and  in  half  an  hour  were  out  of 
the  estero,  and  sweeping  steadily  over  the  long,  green  swell  of 
the  Bay  of  F onseca. 


118 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Bay  of  Fonseca. — Bongo  Sailing. — Agua  Dulce. — Volcano  of  Conchagua. — The 
Eruption  of  1835. — Present  Appearance. — A Chubasco. — Night  in  the  Bay. — 
Morning. — Tigre  Island. — Port  Amapala. — Commercial  Advantages. — Recep- 
tion.— “La  Calentura.” — Future  Prospects  of  the  Island. — Honduras  Inter- 
oceanic  Rail-road. — Game. — Hunting  Excursion. — Cerro. — The  Buccaneers. 
— British  Aggressions. — A Deer. — Playa  Bravo. — Turtle  Eggs. — The  Urraca. 
— Juacamalla. — Sensonte.— Productions. — The  Saw-mill. — President  Caba- 
nas.—Climate.— Trade  of  Amapala. 

The  sun  burst  over  the  distant  mountains  of  Choluteca,  and 
the  morning  clouds  quickly  dissipated  before  the  increasing  heat 
as  we  sped  along.  Th z patron,  instead  of  heading  directly  for 
Tigre  Island,  hauled  to  the  westward,  and  coasted  by  the  Consi- 
guina  shore.  Years  before,  while  pondering  over  the  map  of 
Central  America,  I had  remarked  this  bay  (and  half  the  world 
who  ever  heard  of  it  have  done  the  same)  as  a mere  indentation 
in  the  coast,  with  a few  islands  at  its  mouth.  Later,  after  read- 
ing the  descriptions  of  recent  travelers,  and  examining  the  admi- 
rable map  made  under  the  directions  of  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  I 
had  come  to  regard  it  as  an  extensive  body  of  water  and  a good 
harbor ; but  not  until  now,  with  its  magnificent  proportions  be- 
fore me,  had  I formed  an  accurate  conception  of  its  vast  capaci- 
ty, the  numerous  safe  anchorages  presented  in  every  part,  its 
navigability,  its  advantageous  position,  or  the  interesting  scen- 
ery bordering  it  on  all  inland  sides.  The  peninsula  of  Consi- 
guina  stretched  far  into  it  on  the  left,  the  cape,  though  forming- 
one  of  the  headlands  of  the  entrance,  extending  beyond  our  view 
to  the  northwest.  On  the  right,  the  coast,  commencing  on  the 
Nicaraguan  shore,  a mere  rim  of  land,  lost  itself  to  the  north- 
ward, the  mountains  of  Honduras  seeming  to  roll  up  from  the 
water’s  edge  rather  than  from  the  interior  of  a plain  many  leagues 
inland.  Tigre  Island  and  Sacate  Grande,  two  lofty  mountains 
rising  out  of  the  bosom  of  the  bay,  appearing  mere  blue  mounds 
in  the  distance  (and  beyond  which,  in  bongo  navigation,  one 
may  sail  a whole  day),  were  pointed  out  to  me  by  Antonio.  It 


THE  VOLCANO  OF  CONSIGUINA. 


119 


would  be  safe  to  say  that  the  whole  mercantile  fleet  of  Amer- 
ica might  ride  in  security  together  in  this  great  southern  bay, 
inferior  in  no  respect  to  that  of  San  Francisco,  and  bordered  by 
three  states  possessed  of  the  greatest  natural  resources  within 
the  tropics,  their  hills  stored  with  the  richest  mineral  deposits  in 
Spanish  America. 

As  we  flew  before  the  fresh  breeze,  the  crew,  stretched  out  in 
the  bongo,  and  resigning  themselves  to  the  freedom  of  the  hour, 
chanted  some  of  the  wild  songs  of  the  country,  in  which,  besides 
the  peculiar  Spanish  airs,  I often  detected  a wild,  inharmonious 
resemblance  to  the  Indian  lays.  As  the  long  swells  rolled 
swiftly  after  us,  Antonio  would  utter  a loud  whoop,  not  unlike 
the  “ hi  yah!''1  of  a Bowery  boy,  and,  casting  a confident  glance 
at  the  bending  mast,  bid  his  patron  saint  “ soplar  /”  with  an  ir- 
reverent addendum,  I thought,  not  calculated  to  propitiate  the 
holy  personage  addressed.  A box  from  Chinandega  was  now 
opened,  displaying  a dainty  collection  of  eatables,  a large  part  of 
which  quickly  disappeared  before  the  ravenous  appetites  of  the 
crew.  I won  their  good-will  by  making  an  equable  division  of 
these  viands.  There  were  catamales  wrapped  carefully  with 
fresh  corn  husks  ; roast  chickens  served  up  in  plantain  leaves  ; 
salchichas,  frijolitas  (“flippers,”  or  pan-cakes,  with  an  inner 
lining  of  boiled  beans),  and  more  fruit  than  would  last  us  a doz- 
en such  voyages.  At  noon  the  breeze  left  us,  when  the  sail  was 
doused,  the  oars  got  out,  and,  after  an  hour’s  rowing,  the  bongo 
was  anchored  off  the  great  volcano  of  Consiguina. 

As  the  tide  would  pot  favor  us  for  some  hours,  I took  my 
rifle,  and,  selecting  two  of  the  brightest-looking  of  the  crew, 
waded  on  shore  and  started  for  the  interior.  The  coast,  trend- 
ing to  the  northwest,  presents  a long  extent  of  sandy  beach, 
which  we  followed  until  our  progress  was  stopped  by  a small 
fresh  stream  called  Agua  Dulce , the  waters  of  which  are  warm, 
and  impregnated  with  volcanic  substances.*  Tracing  this  among 

* This  stream  is  doubtless  referred  to  by  Master  Wafer,  who  sailed  for  some 
time  with  Dampier,  and  parted  with  him  at  Realejo,  whence  he  proceeded  to  the 
Bay  of  Fonseca,  in  the  Bachelor's  Delight,  in  1685.  He  says  : “Being  in  great 
want  of  Provisions  while  we  lay  here,  we  went  ashore  in  order  to  supply  our  Ne 
cessities  at  a Beef-Estantion  on  the  Continent  to  the  South  of  the  Cod  of  the 
Bay,  which  lay  from  the  Landing-place  about  three  Mile.  On  our  way  we  were 
obliged  to  pass  a hot  River  in  an  open  Savannah,  altho’  we  made  some  difficulty 


120 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


brambles  and  bushes  mostly  denuded  of  leaves,  we  reached  an 
eminence  standing  to  the  southward  of  its  bank,  up  which  we 
scrambled,  and  surveyed  the  terrific  effects  of  the  great  eruption 
of  1835,  which  tore  the  mountain  to  pieces,  and  for  several  days 
enveloped  all  Central  America  and  the  neighboring  countries  in 
ashes  and  smoke.  This  is  described  as  the  most  violent  and 
destructive  eruption  known  in  these  regions  within  the  memo- 
ry of  man. 

In  Tegucigalpa,  many  leagues  inland,  and  thousands  of  feet 
above  the  sea,  the  city  was  darkened  with  showers  of  ashes. 
The  bellowing  of  the  mountain  was  heard  in  Guatemala,  and 
the  earth  was  shaken  far  into  Mexico.  So  remarkable  is  this 
eruption  considered,  that  the  inhabitants  date  from  it ; and  I 
have  frequently  heard  an  event,  birth,  or  death  calculated  as 
happening  so  many  years  before  or  after  the  great  eruption  of 
Consiguina.  Before  that  time  its  peak  was  lofty,  and  the  form 
of  the  volcano  conical,  like  those  of  Central  Nicaragua.  It  now 
presents  the  appearance  of  having  been  violently  broken  off.  It 
stands  equidistant  between  the  bay  and  ocean,  the  peninsula 
on  which  it  is  situated  being  about  twelve  miles  across.  A 
scene  of  desolate  grandeur  grows  upon  the  beholder  who  gazes 
upward  toward  the  crater,  of  which  no  reliable  account  exists 
since  the  eruption.  The  height  is  estimated  to  be  two  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  gradual  slope  from 
the  bay  toward  the  cone  is  clothed  with  impenetrable  thicket, 
and  the  road  intercepted  by  frightful  ravines.  These  solitudes 
are  rarely  visited,  and  abound  in  wild  animals.  My  two  com- 
panions traversed  the  ground  with  reluctance,  and  seemed  to 
think  the  whole  region  accursed  and  dangerous.  Vast  deposits 
of  lava  and  cinders  thrown  from  the  crater  are  strewed  down  to 
the  water’s  edge. 

In  the  following  year,  while  passing  by  sea  from  this  bay  to 
San  Juan  del  Sur,  I ran  my  boat  closely  under  the  western 
coast,  under  Consiguina  Point,  which  here  presents  a bold,  white 

at  it  by  reason  of  its  Heat.  This  River  issued  out  from  under  a Hill ; but  it  was 
no  Vulcan,  tho’  there  are  several  on  this  coast.  I had  the  curiosity  to  wade  up 
the  stream  as  far  as  I had  Day-light  to  guide  me.  The  Water  was  clear  and 
^hallow,  but  the  Steams  under  the  Hill  were  like  those  of  a boiling  Pot,  and  my 
Hair  was  wet  with  them.  The  River  without  the  Hill  reek’d  for  a great  way.” 
— A New  Voyage  and  Description  of  the  Isthmus  of  America,  p.  190. 


THE  COAST  OF  CONSIGUINA. 


121 


rocky  surface  to  the  sea,  and  the  deposits  of  lava  extend  quite 
to  the  ocean.  Consiguina  is  not  quite  extinct,  though  no  erup- 
tion has  taken  place  since  that  of  1835.  In  December,  1852,  a 
cloud  of  smoke  issued  from  the  crater,  accompanied  with  low 
mutterings.  An  impalpable  red  dust  fell  in  Amapala,  Tigre 
Island,  and  along  the  coast  of  Honduras  ; but  the  inhabitants 
feel  no  apprehension  of  any  future  eruptions.  A few  white 
cranes  stood  silently  upon  the  beach,  almost  among  the  ripples, 
which,  from  our  position,  seemed  a snowy  rim  against  the  clear 
blue  beyond.  Our  bongo  lay  motionless  a few  fathoms  from 
the  shore,  with  a wreath  of  smoke  curling  away  from  her  bows, 
showing  that  Rafael  had  at  last  learned  to  make  coffee  a la  Cal- 
ifornia. A monotonous  lowing  from  a neighboring  valley 
marked  the  vicinity  of  some  lordly  bull,  roaming  in  undisturbed 
silence  amid  the  woods  and  plains,  but,  with  these  exceptions, 
the  place  seemed  deserted  by  all  living  things.  The  view  in- 
cluded the  Honduras  mountains,  the  southern  arm  of  Fonseca 
Bay,  smooth  as  a mill-pond,  the  green  streak  of  mangrove  and 
willow  skirting  the  opposite  coast,  and  the  great  swamp  forests 
toward  the  Estero  Real  from  which  we  had  just  issued.  Stretch- 
ing away  inland  from  where  we  stood  lay  an  inclined  plain, 
slightly  carpeted  with  new  grass,  and  farther  on  patches  of  lava 
and  scoria,  bunches  of  small  woods,  and  desolate,  barren  places 
on  the  distant  mountain  side.  My  men  were  fearful  of  tigers, 
which  they  said  abounded  here,  and,  though  I was  not  unwill- 
ing to  lose  a day  and  make  the  ascent  of  Consiguina,  the  entire 
crew  refused,  and  quoted  the  most  reliable  local  authority  on  the 
subject  of  snakes  and  wild  beasts. 

Returning  to  the  shore,  we  found  the  tide  still  flowing,  and 
the  crew,  pulling  off  their  clothes,  “ tracked”  the  bongo  along 
the  coast,  sometimes  wading  up  to  their  necks  in  crossing  the 
small  creeks  making  into  the  bay.  Knowing  that  alligators 
were  plentiful  in  these  waters,  I was  prepared  to  see  one  of  the 
monsters  rise  among  them  from  the  mud,  but  the  noise  and 
splashing  made  by  the  men  doubtless  kept  them  away.  A 
flock  of  veritable  curlew  flew  over  our  heads,  with  their  peculiar 
piping  note,  and  in  plumage  and  shape  answering  to  the  north- 
ern bird.  These  are  found  on  the  sea-coast,  I believe,  through- 
out Central  America.  In  Fonseca  Bay,  also,  they  are  very 


122 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


plentiful,  particularly  on  tlie  flats  of  Sacate  Grande.  The 
stately  pelican,  Avith  his  bag-bill  and  immense  wings,  hovered 
slowly  along  the  coast,  ever  and  anon  dropping  heavily  into  the 
water,  seizing  his  finny  prey  among  the  shoals  of  jumping  fish. 
I threw  over  a line,  but,  after  an  hour’s  trial,  had  no  success. 
Toward  evening  an  easterly  breeze  sprung  up,  bringing  Avith  it 
the  usual  premonitors  of  a squall.  The  oars  were  taken  in,  all 
hands  jumped  on  board,  the  great  sail  was  again  set,  and  the 
bongo  once  more  plunging  along  on  her  course.  We  still  hug- 
ged the  Consiguina  shore  until  the  ebb  tide  began  to  make, 
when,  being  now  clear  of  the  land,  we  shot  out  into  the  wide 
bay.  Once  past  Cape  Rosario,  and  we  were,  to  all  appearance, 
at  sea.  To  leeward  rolled  the  open  Pacific,  black  with  storm- 
clouds,  while  to  windward  and  ahead,  the  horizon  shut  out  by 
the  gathering  rain  and  mists,  nothing  could  be  seen  but  an  ex- 
panse of  tumbling  water. 

The  wind  increased,  until,  at  sundown,  a heavy  squall  loom- 
ed blue  and  threatening  close  to  windward.  The  sheet  of  the 
sail  Avas  tied  and  jammed  with  apparently  inextricable  knots 
around  a bamboo  cleet.  The  darkness  and  loud  thunder-claps 
increased,  and  yet  Antonio  crouched  in  the  stern  like  a super- 
annuated baboon,  Avithout  making  the  least  motion  to  shorten 
sail.  I had  made  up  my  mind  not  to  interfere  with  the  bongo 
seamanship  of  these  fellows,  and  as  the  wind  struck  us  in  a 
flurry  of  rain  and  spray,  I followed  the  example  of  all  hands, 
and  dodged  under  the  rail,  knowing  that  in  Central  America  to 
be  wet  without  exercise  is  to  take  the  calentura.  The  rain 
poured,  the  thunder  rattled,  the  bongo  staggered  along  in  a 
smother  of  foam,  and  yet  our  patron  disdained  to  reduce  a 
stitch  of  canvas,  until,  Avith  a tremendous  lurch,  the  water 
commenced  pouring  in  over  the  lee-side  in  little  cascades.  The 
crew  and  passengers  squatted  silently  in  the  bottom  of  the  bon- 
go, shivering  with  the  wet.  At  every  surge  Antonio  luffed  her 
into  the  wind,  and  replied  to  my  reiterated  “ cuidado  /”  with  a 
loud  yell.  The  squall  now  burst  upon  us  with  increased  fury ; 
the  view  was  shut  out  beyond  thirty  yards  around  us  by  the 
pouring  rain.  Antonio  gave  a hurried  order  to  one  of  his  men 
to  haul  down  the  sail  as  he  luffed  her  into  the  wind,  but  before 
the  command  could  be  executed  she  was  nearly  capsized.  The 


CENTRAL  AMERICAN  SEAMANSHIP. 


123 


BONGO  NAVIGATION  IN  FONSECA  BAY. 

bongo  was  half  full  of  water;  and,  seeing  my  baggage  swimming 
amid  a wreck  of  boat’s  paraphernalia,  I thought  it  time  to  exer- 
cise some  authority,  especially  as  I had  the  most  at  stake.  I 
was  about  grasping  the  tiller  so  that  the  jpatron  might  attend 
to  the  sheet,  when  she  made  a jump,  sending  him  overboard  back- 
ward from  his  seat.  I endeavored  to  seize  him,  but  he  disap- 
peared in  an  instant,  and,  to  my  surprise,  came  up  a moment 
afterward,  hanging  on  tooth  and  nail  to  a piece  of  stray  rope,  the 
bongo  towing  him  like  a hooked  dolphin.  After  a while  we  drag- 
ged him  on  board,  when,  having  blown  the  water  from  his  mouth, 
an  appeal  to  the  aguardiente  bottle  put  him  again  to  rights. 
By  this  time  the  sail  had  been  lowered,  and,  the  squall  over, 
our  boat  was  bailed  out.  Every  thing  was  soaked  and  nearly 
ruined. 

As  the  weather  cleared  up,  I observed  that  we  had  got  far  into 
the  gulf.  To  the  northwest  lay  the  island  of  Mianguera,  dimly 
discernible  through  the  darkness,  its  tall,  bluff  banks  covered 
with  thich^verdure,  resembling  the  outlines  of  some  gaunt  old 
castle.  Directly  ahead,  El  Tigre  reared  its  lofty  proportions, 
but  now  appearing  a mere  shadow.  A few  stars  showed  them- 
selves among  the  clouds  which  hurried  seaward,  portending,  as 


124 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Antonio  observed,  u mucho  viente  en  la  noche .”  But  gradually 
the  wind  subsided,  until  we  were  once  more  becalmed  under 
Mianguera.  The  tide  being  against  us,  the  stone  which  served 
as  an  anchor  was  thrown  overboard,  and  some  arrangements 
were  made  for  a few  hours’  sleep.  We  lay  anchored  between 
Mianguera  and  El  Tigre  during  the  night,  a strong  wind  blow- 
ing from  the  N.E.  causing  the  bongo  to  roll  incessantly  in  the 
swell.  Several  times  I awoke  and  surveyed  the  scene,  which 
was  one  of  peculiar  interest.  The  bay  abounds  in  vast  shoals 
of  sardines,  which,  coursing  swiftly  past  our  anchorage,  pro- 
duced a phosphorescent  light  often  witnessed  at  sea  in  calm 
weather.  These  great  illuminated  streaks  shot  around  us  in 
all  directions,  gleaming  brightly  as  they  approached  the  surface, 
or  fading  into  an  indistinct  greenish  tint  when  darting  to  a 
greater  depth.  At  times  a porpoise  or  puffing-pig  explored  his 
solitary  way  against  the  tide,  or  the  distant  cry  of  some  water- 
bird  came  faintly  through  the  darkness.  To  the  westward,  the 
surf  along  the  shore  of  Conchaguita  and  Mianguerita  kept  up  its 
ceaseless  war.  Away  toward  Nicaragua  the  horizon  was  illu- 
mined with  flickering  traces  of  lightning  darting  in  faint  lines 
along  the  sky,  denoting  the  passage  of  some  midnight  thunder- 
storm amid  the  pine-clad  mountains  of  Chontales. 

The  excitement  of  the  previous  day,  added  to  the  dampness 
and  crowded  condition  of  the  bongo,  left  me  no  alternative  but 
to  wrap  my  poncho  closely  about  me,  light  my  meerschaum, 
and  so  pass  the  night  gazing  through  the  misty  darkness  at  the 
scenery,  and  listening  to  the  heavy  breathing  of  the  sleepers. 
Morning  gradually  crept  over  the  waters,  and  as  the  gray  clouds 
which  capped  the  eastern  hills  became  tinted  with  the  approach- 
ing dawn,  I roused  all  hands,  and,  the  anchor  being  drawn  up, 
we  took  the  favorable  tide  and  headed  once  more  for  Tigre  Isl- 
and. At  this  moment  a fair  wind,  in  a series  of  cat’s-paws,  came 
over  the  glassy  surface  of  the  water,  which  shortly  increased  to 
a breeze.  Antonio  took  the  helm  ; the  aguardiente  bottle  was 
again  circulated  ; Rafael  renewed  his  coffee-making  operations  ; 
the  sail  bellied  out  to  the  freshening  gale:  the  Masters  Darda- 
no  looked  curiously  toward  their  island  home,  which  they  had 
not  seen  for  several  years.  Every  thing  was  now  in  glorious 
contrast  to  the  previous  night.  The  long,  dangerous  sea  had 


THE  APPROACH  TO  EL  TIGRE. 


125 


subsided,  leaving  a clear  blue  expanse  of  water  sparkling  in 
the  morning  sunlight ; our  clumsy  old  craft  skimmed  over  the 
rippling  waters  with  the  speed  of  a race-horse. 

As  I sipped  the  coffee  between  the  comfortable  whiffs  of  my 
pipe,  I had  an  excellent  opportunity  to  estimate  the  wonderful 
capacity  of  this  noble  bay.  We  had  now  shut  out  the  ocean 
beyond  the  outer  islands,  and  were  cutting  through  an  expanse 
of  water,  smooth  as  a trout-lake,  but  deep  enough  to  float  the 
largest  ships  in  the  world ; not  a hidden  rock  or  shoal  in  any 
direction ; the  jplctyas  or  beaches  approachable  with  large  ships 
to  within  pistol-shot  of  the  rocks,  and  room  to  anchor  or  moor  a 
thousand  vessels,  even  in  the  comparative  nook  made  by  the  four 
islands,  which  here  form  almost  a completely  land-locked  circle 
of  water,  in  which  the  frailest  canoe  might  safely  navigate. 

So  rapidly  did  we  shoot  onward  that  I had  scarcely  time  to 
note  the  quick  succession  of  glorious  views  and  picturesque 
scenery  which,  with  every  turn,  opened  their  beauties.  My 
companions,  intent  on  cigarros  and  aguardiente,  gazed  listlessly 
at  the  prospect,  and  said  nothing;  a course  which  pleased  me 
best,  as,  without  a kindred  spirit  to  enjoy  the  splendors  of  na- 
ture, silence  alone  is  the  fittest  accompaniment.  We  were  soon 
under  the  shadows  of  El  Tigre,  which  loomed  three  thousand 
feet  above  us,  its  steep  sides  loaded  with  verdure,  from  among 
which  might  be  selected  fifty  varieties  of  valuable  woods  and 
plants  growing  wild  and  unclaimed.  The  same  might  be  said 
of  not  only  every  island  in  this  archipelago,  but  of  the  entire 
coast  of  the  main  land. 

It  was  not  until  we  were  closely  coasting  the  gigantic  masses 
of  lava,  skirting  the  island  like  a wall  of  jet  its  entire  circum- 
ference, that  I obtained  an  idea  of  its  extent,  while  the  summit, 
lost  in  a cloud-cap,  seemed  even  loftier  from  the  extreme  base. 
The  volcano  rises  in  an  exact  cone  as  beautifully  rounded  as 
if  erected  by  art,  plainly  indicating  the  manner  of  its  formation. 
I traveled  around  it  by  land,  and  half  the  same  distance  by  boat, 
several  times,  and  neither  on  the  shore  nor  at  the  summit,  the 
ascent  of  which  I made  some  months  later,  could  a stone  or 
rock  of  any  kind  be  found ; the  island,  volcano,  every  thing,  is 
of  volcanic  formation ; even  the  foundations  of  the  houses, 
fences,  and  attempts  at  wharves  are  of  this  material. 


126 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


We  rounded  point  after  point,  forming  the  numerous  accessi- 
ble beaches  of  the  island,  until  we  entered  the  port  of  Amapala, 
a harbor  within  a harbor,  the  most  secluded,  accessible,  shel- 
tered, and,  in  every  respect,  excellent  port  on  the  Pacific  coast. 
Amapala  is  thirty-five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Estero  Real, 
and  eight  from  the  nearest  point  of  the  main  land.  It  is  formed 
by  an  indentation  (jylaya)  on  the  northern  side  of  the  island, 
there  being  from  three  to  six  fathoms  for  a distance  of  two  miles 
in  the  space  formed  by  the  islands  of  Esposescion,  Sacate 
Grande,  and  El  Tigre.  Each  of  these  have  good  landings  in 
numerous  places,  but  the  western  exposure  renders  them  rough 
ports  during  heavy  winds  from  that  quarter,  while  Amapala, 
fronting  toward  the  main  land,  may  be  entered  with  a canoe  in 
the  heaviest  weather.  But  so  equable  and  mild  are  the  sea- 
sons in  this  region,  that  no  long  gales,  like  those  in  the  north, 
are  ever  experienced,  while  any  sea  raised  by  a temporary  high 
wind  generally  subsides  with  the  abatement  of  the  storm. 

As  we  neared  the  little  town,  my  friends  the  Dardanos  be- 
came greatly  excited  with  the  prospect  of  meeting  their  moth- 
er and  sister,  who  stood  at  the  door  of  a neat,  American-looking 
cottage,  waving  scarfs  toward  the  boat.  Our  bongo-men  now 
donned  their  “along-shore  toggery,”  consisting  of  a clean  cotton 
shirt  and  trowsers ; the  little  white  flag  was  hoisted,  and  the 
rifles  and  pistols  of  the  entire  party  called  into  requisition  for  a 
grand  feu  de  joie  in  honor  of  the  ladies.  The  Sardinian  and 
American  flags  were  run  up  at  the  flag-staff  of  the  cuartel , and 
the  four-pounder,  mounted  in  front  of  the  door,  was  made  to  thun- 
der its  welcome.  It  being  nearly  high  water,  the  bongo  dropped 
anchor ; and  now,  mounting  the  backs  of  two  stout  fellows  who 
waded  out  to  accommodate  us,  we  were  landed,  and  heartily  wel- 
comed in  good  English  by  several  gentlemen,  among  whom  were 
Italians,  French,  Germans,  and  Americans,  all  employed  on  the 
island,  some  as  store-keepers,  others  as  clerks  to  the  house  of 
Dardano  & Muller,  and  the  Americans  owning  a saw-mill  in  the 
eastern  end  of  the  town,  which,  in  answer  to  the  kind  invitation 
of  the  proprietors,  I promised  to  visit  the  following  day. 

The  first  impression  on  landing  at  Tigre  Island  is  its  splen- 
did facilities  for  fortification,  and  the  formation  of  a great  central 
commercial  depot  from  which  to  command  the  trade  of  the  three 


RECEPTION  AT  AMAPALA. 


127 


states  bordering  on  the  Bay  of  Fonseca.  Its  resources  fully 
developed,  Amapala  might  be  made  the  most  important  port  on 
the  Pacific  south  of  San  Francisco.  In  1850,  Mr.  E.  G.  Squier, 
during  his  chargeship,  forwarded  a series  of  dispatches  to  the 
U.  S.  government,  in  which  he  advocated  the  advantages  of  en- 
tering into  negotiatons  with  Honduras  for  the  establishment  of 
a naval  station  at  Amapala.  Should  this  plan  be  adopted,  the 
yearly-increasing  means  of  communication  between  California 
and  the  eastern  states  would  soon  place  a U.  S.  Pacific  squadron 
within  seven  days  of  Washington.  With  the  construction  of 
the  contemplated  Honduras  rail-road,  and  the  appliances  of  tele- 
graphs and  steamers,  government  orders  of  the  most  vital  im- 
portance to  the  nation  could  be  transmitted  to  the  Pacific  squad- 
ron in  three  and  a half  days.  The  town  is  now  the  principal, 
or,  rather,  only  real  port  where  large  vessels  or  steamers  may 
anchor  and  discharge  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the  three  republics 
of  Honduras,  Salvador,  or  Nicaragua. 

A short  walk  through  a collection  of  semi- American  dwellings 
brought  us  to  the  house  of  Senor  Dardano,  where  we  found  the 
ladies  and  our  bongo  companions  exchanging  the  news.  After 
a cordial  reception  at  the  hands  of  the  party,  comfortable  quar- 
ters were  established  for  me  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Miiller  near  by. 
Don  Carlos  was  expected  with  two  daughters  from  Tegucigalpa, 
on  their  way  from  the  United  States  by  the  way  of  Omoa  and 
Comayagua.  Having  letters  of  introduction  to  him,  I determ- 
ined not  to  commence  my  journey  into  the  interior  of  Honduras 
without  obtaining  information  from  a gentleman  whose  thirty 
years’  residence  in  the  country  enabled  him  to  impart  valuable 
advice  and  information  respecting  political  and  other  matters. 

On  the  evening  after  my  arrival,  a sense  of  dizziness,  with 
quickened  pulse  and  intense  headache,  warned  me  that  my  fre- 
quent wettings  in  the  Bay  of  Fonseca  by  rains  and  tide  were 
not  to  pass  without  the  usual  penalty  of  calentura,  which,  up  to 
this  time,  my  good  constitution  seemed  to  have  bid  defiance  to. 
Few  escape  this  scourge,  which  in  intertropical  regions,  especial- 
ly on  the  coast  lowlands,  is  almost  certain  to  overtake  the  for- 
eigner. I was  well  fortified  with  quinine  and  other  medicines, 
furnished  me  by  my  good  friend  the  doctor  at  Chinandega, 
which,  with  the  kind  attentions  of  my  hostess  and  her  family, 


128 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


at  last  put  an  end  to  the  disease,  but  not  until  its  effects  had 
left  me  pallid  and  exhausted,  and  bearing  the  peculiar  cadaver- 
ous hue  of  the  fever-stricken  stranger.  The  attack  is  usually 
of  one  type  along  the  Central  American  coast,  but  is  admitted 
by  all  to  be  far  less  dangerous  and  virulent  on  the  Pacific  than 
on  the  Atlantic  side.  The  tertiana  most  prevails ; its  effects 
are  prostrating  in  the  extreme,  and  the  patient  at  last,  strug- 
gling again  into  daylight  and  air,  experiences  a giddy,  languid 
sensation,  as  if  issuing  from  a fainting-fit.  The  remedies  are 
simple,  easily  obtained  in  the  towns,  and  consist  of  quinine  and 
purgatives.  Many  superstitions  exist  as  to  the  violence  of  the 
fever  being  affected  by  the  changes  of  the  moon,  the  height  of 
the  tide,  direction  of  the  wind,  and  time  of  attack.  Certain  rules 
are  usually  enforced,  such  as  abstaining  from  washing  the  hands 
or  face  during  the  fever,  the  maxim  used  in  reply  to  a doubt  of 
this  last  treatment  being,  “ Better  be  dirty  above  ground  than 
clean  under  it!”  a fact  few  are  disposed  to  dispute,  and  one 
which  the  old  nurses  of  the  country  always  repeat,  while  the 
patient  is  denied  the  use  of  water  except  to  drink  sparingly. 
During  this  my  first  illness  in  Central  America,  I received  such 
attentions  at  the  hands  of  my  hospitable  entertainers  as  I had 
hardly  dared  hope  for  when  leaving  home  for  a journey  among 
strangers,  and  those  whom  I had  been  prepared  to  regard  as 
semi-civilized  and  ignorant.  Physician  I had  none  ; and  after- 
experience  taught  me  that  the  less  the  foreigner  has  to  do  with 
the  native  doctor,  the  longer  may  be  his  life  lease.  I often  had 
occasion  to  witness  the  blind  blundering  and  absurd  practice  of 
the  Central  American  medico , whose  quackery,  equal  to  that  of 
the  veriest  American  empiric,  was  rendered  all  the  more  danger- 
ous from  lacking  the  example  of  better-informed  practitioners, 
and  the  intelligence  to  benefit  from  experience. 

Once  up  from  my  sick-couch,  where,  in  the  silence  of  the  live- 
long day,  I had  ample  leisure  to  digest  my  plans  for  the  future, 
and  I issued  forth  into  the  busy  little  world  of  Tigre  Island 
with  additional  zest  to  enjoy  the  beautiful  scenery  for  which  it 
has  ever  been  celebrated.  A volume  might  be  written  descrip- 
tive of  the  advantageous  situation  of  the  island ; its  remarkable 
resources,  agricultural  and  commercial ; the  many  acres  of  val- 
uable woods  and  precious  plants,  roots,  and  shrubs  growing 


COMMERCIAL  IMPORTANCE  OF  AMAPALA. 


129 


throughout  its  broad  expanse.  The  island  itself  is  capable  of 
sustaining,  on  the  level  lands  contained  between  the  playas  and 
the  base  of  the  volcano  rising  from  its  centre,  a population  of 
twenty  thousand  people.  The  town  of  Amapala,  situated  on 
the  eastern  jpilaya,  stretches  back  over  a rolling  plain,  gradually 
ascending  toward  the  slope  of  the  mountain,  and  extends  a dis- 
tance of  three  quarters  of  a mile  along  the  harbor.  Its  com- 
manding military  position,  the  general  salubrity  of  the  climate, 
and  the  future  commerce,  of  which  approaching  events  seem  to 
denote  this  place  as  the  key,  point  to  Tigre  Island  as  destined 
to  become,  ere  long,  an  important  and  wealthy  emporium. 

The  adjacent  coasts  offer  facilities  for  the  raising  of  untold 
quantities  of  the  produce  of  all  climates,  from  the  cereal  grains 
of  the  north  to  the  cacao,  sugar,  and  indigo  of  the  tropics. 
Such  is  the  diversity  of  the  country,  that  in  a day  one  may  de- 
scend from  the  cool,  grain-growing  uplands  in  some  portions  of 
Salvador  and  Honduras  into  regions  teeming  with  the  rarest 
tropical  plants.  Castellon  referred  with  all  the  zeal  of  a repub- 
lican enthusiast  to  his  plan  of  constructing  a rail-road  from  some 
point  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake  Nicaragua  to  the  head  of 
navigation  of  the  Estero  Heal,  to  connect  by  ocean  steamers  with 
the  fine  port  of  Amapala ; a scheme  which,  though  less  feasible 
than  other  proposed  routes,  is  not  an  impracticable  one,  and  has, 
since  my  conversation  with  Castellon  on  the  subject,  been  seri- 
ously contemplated  by  a succeeding  administration. 

The  adjacent  republics  bordering  on  the  Bay  of  Fonseca  form 
also  one  of  the  richest  mineral  districts  in  the  world,  the  re- 
sources of  which,  save  the  occasional  exports  from  the  Atlantic 
coast  via  Truxillo,  Omoa,  and  Balize,  have,  until  the  discovery 
of  California  and  the  consequent  opening  of  the  various  routes 
of  travel,  been  almost  hidden  from  the  world.  The  agricultural 
products  of  these  republics  are  yet  unknown  except  to  a few 
foreigners,  who  have  crossed  the  continent  at  these  points,  and 
those  whom  the  love  of  adventure  has  drawn  to  Central  Amer- 
ica during  the  past  twelve  months.  These  alone  are  such  as 
to  furnish  the  basis  of  a large  trading  town  at  Amapala,  from 
which  the  large  consuming  population  in  the  interior  could  be 
supplied.  Amapala  is  the  only  port  where  large  vessels  can 
securely  and  advantageously  anchor.  The  other  islands  of  this 

I 


130 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


archipelago  are  uninhabitable,  or  so  environed  with  reefs  and 
rocks  as  to  be  useless  for  the  purposes  of  commerce.  This  su- 
periority was  early  noticed  by  Don  Carlos  Dardano,  an  Italian 
merchant,  who,  marrying  a lady  of  Tegucigalpa,  became  entitled 
to  all  the  privileges  of  citizenship,  and  in  1846  obtained  from 
the  government  of  Honduras  a grant  of  several  caballerias  of 
land  on  condition  that  he  should  clear  a certain  space  of  ground, 
establish  a trading-post,  and  make  it  his  place  of  residence. 
The  settlement  of  Amapala  was  thus  commenced,  and  created  a 
free  port  by  the  government  for  ten  years.  Under  the  energetic 
exertions  of  Senor  Dardano,  the  town  became  at  last  a rival  of 
La  Union,  the  principal  port  of  San  Salvador  on  the  northern 
border  of  the  bay,  and  is  now  the  seat  of  a considerable  local 
traffic,  which  is  often  increased  by  the  arrival  of  foreign  vessels, 
discharging  at  this  point  the  goods  intended  for  trade  with  the 
interior.  Considerable  jealousy  has  arisen  between  the  mer- 
chants of  San  Salvador  and  Tigre  Island  in  consequence,  but 
the  advantages  of  Amapala  over  the  shallow,  secluded  port  of 
La  Union  are  too  apparent  to  need  repetition. 

Here,  too,  among  several  discretional  places,  may  be  located 
the  terminus  of  the  Honduras  inter-oceanic  rail-road,  which,  com- 
mencing on  the  Caribbean  Sea,  is  designed  to  pass  through  the 
beautiful  valley  of  Comayagua,  a distance  of  one  hundred  and 
forty-eight  miles,  and  with  an  average  grade,  as  the  report  of  the 
surveys  of  Mr.  E.  G.  Squier  states,  of  only  twenty-eight  feet  to 
the  mile.  While  Panama  and  Nicaragua  were  early  made  the 
field  of  American  enterprise  for  the  establishment  of  an  inter- 
oceanic  communication,  it  is  somewhat  singular  that  speedier  at- 
tention was  not  directed  to  this  route  to  the  Pacific,  which  is 
shorter  than  any  other,  not  excepting  that  of  Tehuantepec,  and 
offers  facilities  for  the  construction  of  an  inter-oceanic  rail-road 
not  exceeded  or  equaled  by  any  other.  The  terms  of  the  char- 
ter obtained  by  Mr.  Squier  from  the  supreme  government  are 
the  best  proof  of  the  liberality  of  Honduras  in  these  respects, 
and  the  earnest  desire  she  has  of  opening  up  the  resources  of  the 
country.  Extraordinary  inducements  are  offered  for  the  further- 
ing of  this  great  enterprise,  one  of  the  principal  of  which  is  the 
existence  of  safe  and  capacious  harbors  at  either  terminus  (an 
advantage  not  possessed  by  the  Tehuantepec  route),  and  the  com- 


THE  INTER-OCEANIC  RAIL-ROAD. 


131 


parative  small  amount  of  grading  and  bridging  to  be  done.  Not 
only  these  facts,  but  the  bare  existence  of  the  route,  has  remain- 
ed, until  recently,  unknown  abroad,  save  by  those  interested  in 
the  project.  The  most  violent  opponents  of  American  influence 
in  Honduras,  and  those  whose  political  prejudices  have  instigated 
them  to  assail  the  project  at  the  risk  of  the  progress  of  the  coun- 
try, admit  that  the  completion  of  the  proposed  rail-road  would  at 
once  place  the  republic  in  advance  of  all  other  Spanish-Ameri- 
can  states.  The  road  could  be  extended  across  the  southern  end 
of  Sacate  Grande,  and,  crossing  a narrow  and  shallow  reef  be- 
tween the  two  islands,  be  made  to  terminate  at  Tigre  Island, 
where  abundant  material  is  found  for  the  construction  of  wharves, 
at  which  the  largest  steamers  in  the  world  might  tie  up  in  per- 
fect security.  The  attention  now  being  turned  toward  Central 
America  has  inspired  the  people  of  Honduras  with  renewed 
hope,  and  the  ultimate  completion  of  the  rail-road  is  anxiously 
looked  for.  Its  effects  upon  the  prosperity  of  the  country  would 
be  incalculable,  while  Amapala  would  spring  suddenly  into  a 
position  of  commercial  importance  rivaling  that  of  any  other 
port  south  of  San  Francisco. 

The  island,  excepting  the  few  cleared  level  spaces  near  the 
shores,  is  densely  wooded,  and  an  abundance  of  game  may  be 
found  by  an  expert  huntsman.  Deer,  and  several  of  the  small- 
er tropical  animals,  are  frequently  shot,  and  in  the  earlier  days 
of  the  settlement  tigers  were  often  seen  among  the  jungle,  crash- 
ing away  from  the  intruder,  and  springing  out  of  sight.  These 
have  been  nearly  all  shot  off ; but  on  some  of  the  eastern  playas 
they  are  yet  occasionally  met  with,  and,  at  long  intervals,  the  re- 
mains of  a defunct  cow,  tom  to  pieces  in  the  woods,  prove  that 
these  animals  are  not  yet  exterminated.  When  Sehor  Dardano 
settled  upon  the  island,  deer  frequently  came  within  pistol-shot 
of  his  house. 

Hearing  so  much  of  the  game  and  desiring  to  see  the  western 
part  of  the  island,  I employed  a wide-awake  looking  native,  who 
enjoyed  the  reputation  of  a successful  hunter,  to  accompany  me 
on  a tour  of  exploration.  My  object  was  principally  to  view  the 
scenery,  and  ascertain  the  extent  of  available  land  radiating  from 
the  base  of  the  volcano.  On  the  day  previous  to  my  antici- 
pated ramble  I obtained  an  excellent  shot-gun  from  a German 


132 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


acquaintance,  which  I gave  Nolberto  to  carry,  reserving  my  rifle 
for  my  own  use.  The  dawn  was  faintly  streaking  the  eastern 
horizon  and  tinting  the  mountains  of  Choluteca  when  I felt  my 
arm  touched,  and  the  low  voice  of  Rafael  warning  me  that  my 
guide  was  waiting.  I invariably  slept  in  a hammock,  as  much 
for  the  coolness  of  this  style  of  bed  as  to  avoid  the  regiments 
of  fleas  which  seem  to  haunt  the  steps  of  the  Spanish  race.  I 
looked  out,  and  found  my  faithful  attendant  waiting  patiently  be- 
side the  hammock,  holding  a cup  of  hot  coffee  “ con  leche ,”  and 
my  meerschaum  preparatory  to  the  tramp.  These  dispatched, 
we  hastily  donned  our  hunting  gear  and  sallied  out  into  the 
dark,  the  silence  unbroken  except  by  the  croaking  of  night  ani- 
mals and  the  humming  of  countless  insects.  From  some  far- 
away play  a the  bark  of  the  watch-dog  came  faintly  through  the 
morning  air,  and  at  intervals  the  tiny  ripple  of  the  flood  tide 
broke  softly  along  the  beach.  Nolberto  lit  a cigarro,  and,  tak- 
ing the  lead,  we  were  quickly  beyond  the  precincts  of  the  town, 
and  plunged  into  a labyrinth  of  crooked  paths,  winding  among 
the  shrubbery,  and  requiring  the  greatest  caution  to  avoid  stum- 
bling over  the  many  half-buried  masses  of  lava,  which,  rolling 
down  the  sides  of  the  volcano,  have  become  imbedded  in  the 
soil.  At  my  desire,  my  guide  first  directed  his  steps  toward  a 
hill  situated  about  a mile  from  the  town,  and  rising  to  an  ele- 
vation of  about  six  hundred  feet  above  the  surrounding  plain. 

We  scrambled  for  half  an  hour  among  intricate  cattle-paths, 
until,  reaching  the  foot  of  the  hill,  we  struggled  up  and  gained 
the  summit  just  as  the  sun  shot  up  from  a sea  of  golden  clouds 
above  the  mountains  to  the  eastward.  The  view  from  this  point 
is  necessarily  limited,  and  embraces  only  the  northern  and  west- 
ern portions  of  the  bay  ; that  from  the  summit  of  the  volcano, 
which  reared  its  head  two  thousand  feet  above  us,  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  Western  world.  Some  months  afterward,  when  I 
made  its  ascent  in  company  with  a few  friends,  the  party  unani- 
mously voted  this  view  to  be  the  most  extensive  and  magnif- 
icent they  had  ever  witnessed.  From  this  position,  however,  the 
scene  was  interesting  and  striking,  affording  a glimpse  of  the 
mountain  scenery  of  San  Salvador  and  Honduras,  and  seaward 
a horizon  of  blue  water,  indistinct  in  the  distance  with  the  morn- 
ing mists,  and  roaring  in  banks  of  foam  along  the  rocky  barriers 


A RAMBLE  IN  THE  INTERIOR. 


133 


below.  Beneath  us  lay  a small  lake,  covering  a space  of  a few 
acres,  and  now  coated  with  a thick  mass  of  moss  and  parasitical 
plants,  some  of  which,  taking  root  in  the  bottom  of  the  lake, 
climbed  among  the  surrounding  trees. 

On  the  small  space  of  table-land  forming  the  top  of  the  hill 
are  traces  of  forts  erected  by  the  buccaneers  of  the  seventeenth 
century.  They  could  scarcely  have  selected  a fitter  retreat,  the 
port  offering  ample  shelter  for  their  vessels,  which  were  over- 
looked and  protected  by  the  fort.  Here  doubtless,  in  the  old 
days  of  the  flibusteros,  the  pirates  of  the  Pacific  held  their  coun- 
cils, and  from  this  point  planned  many  of  their  marauding  de- 
scents upon  the  neighboring  coasts.  Here  the  English  are  said 
to  have  erected  a battery,  and  from  this  height  their  flag  floated 
in  1849,  at  which  time  they  seized  and  claimed  Tigre  Island. 
Don  Carlos  Dardano  gave  me  a detailed  account  of  the  opera- 
tions of  the  British  at  Amapala,  in  which  it  appeared  that,  in  an 
evil  hour,  he  had  accepted  the  control  of  the  island  under  the 
usurpers,  ~nd,  in  consequence,  had  lost  favor  with  the  Honduras 
government  upon  its  restoration  to  its  legitimate  owners. 

A considerable  expanse  of  level  land  lies  beneath  the  hill,  and 
a fine  fertile  valley  is  formed  by  this  elevation  and  the  slope  of 
the  volcano.  Amid  the  foliage  appeared  the  low  adobe  or  branch 
huts  of  the  islanders,  most  of  whom  gain  a scanty  livelihood  by 
cultivating  a small  patch  of  ground,  or  engage  in  the  various 
avocations  of  the  neighboring  settlement.  After  taking  a long 
gaze  at  the  romantic  scenery  spread  beyond  and  beneath  us,  we 
resumed  our  tramp  toward  a secluded  piece  of  woodland  on  the 
western  shore  of  the  island,  where  deer  were  said  to  abound. 
The  rains  of  the  previous  day  had  imparted  a wholesome  fresh- 
ness to  the  atmosphere,  which,  amid  the  shady  dells  through 
which  we  made  our  way,  seemed  to  approximate  to  the  invigor- 
ating quality  of  a spring  morning  in  New  England.  Our  way 
led  around  the  western  end  of  the  island,  and  half  an  hour’s 
traveling  brought  us  into  a deep  forest  of  ceibas,  guajpinoles,  and 
palms  so  dense  that  we  made  our  way  only  by  thrusting  aside 
the  rank  and  matted  undergrowth.  Presently  we  came  to  a 
level  cleared  space,  and  Nolberto  having  intimated  that  we 
might  expect  game  here,  we  crept  softly  along  toward  the  brink 
of  a ravine,  through  which  a rivulet  flowed  quietly  toward  the 


134 


EXPLORATION  S IN  HONDURAS. 


ocean.  The  tracks  newly -imprinted  in  the  damp  soil  gave 
token  that  we  were  in  the  vicinity  of  deer.  We  seated  ourselves 
on  a rock,  and,  as  the  sun  had  now  begun  to  penetrate  the  sur- 
rounding woods,  my  companions  produced  a cotton  cloth  filled 
with  eatables,  and  commenced  spreading  them  out,  when,  turn- 
ing toward  a copse  twenty  yards  distant,  my  eyes  met  those  of 
a beautiful  doe,  standing  erect,  and  gazing  with  silent  wonder 
upon  our  movements.  Without  uttering  a word  to  my  com- 
panions, who,  as  yet,  were  unconscious  of  the  presence  of  game, 
I brought  down  my  rifle,  startling  them  with  its  sharp  ring,  as, 
at  the  same  moment,  the  animal  disappeared  in  the  woods. 
Dropping  the  table  paraphernalia,  my  men  sprang  after  her,  and 
in  a few  moments  their  shouts  told  me  the  bullet  had  done  its 
work.  Eafael  was  dispatched  to  town  for  a horse,  while  we  cut 
up  the  game  in  readiness  for  his  return.  Sending  him  back 
with  his  load,  Nolberto  and  myself  continued  the  hunt. 

As  we  penetrated  the  glades  the  game  increased ; but,  though 
we  had  several  capital  opportunities,  our  luck  had  departed. 
The  deer  on  Tigre  Island  are  similar  to  those  of  the  main  land, 
and  are  of  the  small,  fallow  species.  In  the  interior  they  are 
found  in  herds,  so  plentiful,  indeed,  in  some  sections,  that  labor- 
ers engaging  to  work  on  plantations  are  represented  to  have  a 
special  understanding  with  the  proprietor  of  the  estate  that  the 
food  shall  be  beef,  and  not  venison. 

Antelopes  are  said  to  abound,  though  their  existence  is  doubt- 
ed by  some  writers  on  Central  America.  What  is  called  the 
mountain  antelope  is  common  in  the  interior,  but  this  animal  is 
doubtless  often  confounded  with  the  fallow  deer.  A sudden 
stirring  among  the  foliage  on  the  lonely  mountain  road  often  de- 
notes their  proximity  to  the  traveler.  Henderson  mentions  the 
gazelle  as  inhabiting  the  woodlands  of  Balize,  which,  he  says, 
has  been  considered  the  Dorcas , or  barbarian  antelope  of  Linnae- 
us. It  is  about  half  the  size  of  the  deer. 

We  rounded  the  thickly- wooded  slope  of  the  volcano,  and 
emerging,  after  an  hour’s  walk,  into  an  open  space  carpeted  with 
grass  and  low,  tangled  vines,  we  heard,  coming  faintly  through 
the  forest,  the  roar  of  the  ocean  as  it  broke  upon  the  southern 
beach.  Half  an  hour’s  scrambling  among  briers  and  dark  thick- 
ets brought  us  to  the  surf,  now  tumbling  in  with  long,  regular 


PLATA  BRAVO. 


135 


swells.  Here  we  traced  the  distant  outline  of  the  volcano  of 
Consiguina,  its  ragged  sides  bristling  against  the  sky,  while  on 
the  opposite  side,  to  the  northward,  the  great  headland  of  San 
Salvador,  Conchagua,  reared  its  head,  the  two  forming  a resem- 
blance to  the  Pillars  of  Hercules,  or,  more  aptly,  to  the  Golden 
Gate.  From  this  position,  one  is  at  once  struck  with  the  simi- 
larity of  scenery  and  formation  between  the  bays  of  Fonseca  and 
San  Francisco.  It  needs  but  the  splash  of  the  steamer  beating 
these  silent  waters  into  sparkling  foam  to  complete  the  likeness. 

As  we  stood  on  the  beach,  my  attention  was  attracted  to  nu- 
merous holes  in  the  sand,  which,  on  examining,  I found  to  be 
turtles’  nests.  One  of  these  we  laid  siege  to,  and  after  scraping 
away  near  half  a ton  of  sand,  the  carefully-concealed  treasure 
began  to  appear.  They  were  about  the  size  of  hens’  eggs,  but  of 
a soft  consistency.  They  were  deposited  with  great  care,  each 
egg  being  surrounded  with  a close  covering  of  sand,  and  so  placed 
as  not  to  come  in  contact  with  each  other.  After  thirty  or  for- 
ty had  been  dragged  forth,  Nolberto  assumed  my  place,  and, 
baring  his  arm,  pulled  them  out,  one  by  one,  until  a hundred 
and  nineteen  were  exposed  to  view.  He  said  they  were  never 
eaten  on  the  island,  and  humanely  recommended  me  to  let  him 
cover  them  up  again,  which  he  did  with  commendable  care.  I 
learned,  however,  on  the  following  day,  that  the  abominable 
rogue  had  returned  and  robbed  the  nest,  to  an  egg,  for  his  own 
private  eating.  They  are  really  excellent,  as  I afterward  ascer- 
tained by  frequent  trial.  The  name  of  the  beach  upon  which 
we  stood  was  the  Playa  Bravo . It  is  inaccessible  for  boats. 

We  found  wild  cattle  and  deer  trail  extending  quite  down  to 
the  ocean,  and  following  the  bank  of  a stream  into  some  un- 
frequented part  of  the  interior.  We  returned  by  a new  path, 
leading  around  the  base  of  the  mountain,  which  at  every  mo- 
ment showed  its  lofty  head  among  the  clouds  as  we  scrambled 
through  the  shrubbery.  On  our  way  we  were  followed  by  a 
flock  of  urracas , a species  of  blue  magpie,  with  a bill  and  tongue 
somewhat  resembling  the  parrot.  One  of  them,  which  I wound- 
ed, uttered  a continuous  scream,  drawing  his  comrades  close 
around  us.  At  times  they  would  swoop  down  almost  to  within 
arms’  length,  regard  us  fiercely  for  a moment,  and  then,  whirling 
away  to  a neighboring  branch,  sit  with  fluttering  wings  and 


136 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


open  beaks,  responding  to  the  cries  of  their  wounded  compan- 
ion. I did  not  see  this  bird  in  the  highlands  of  the  continent, 
and  presume  from  that  fact  that  they  are  confined  to  the  coast. 
The  juacamalla,  decked  in  his  burning  plumage,  the  parrot  in 
several  varieties,  the  oripendole,  with  his  gay  dress,  and  saucy, 
dancing  motion  as  he  cuts  through  the  air ; the  blue  heron,  the 
purple-breasted  mourning  dove,  the  sensonte,  and  the  nightin- 
gale, are  all  found  in  the  woods  of  Tigre  Island.  The  juacco- 
malla,  a species  of  the  macaw,  is  the  dandy  par  excellence  of 

the  Central  American 
forest.  His  flashy  liv- 
ery, always  heralded 
by  the  harsh  scream 
of  its  owner,  may  be 
seen  from  afar  amid 
the  topmost  branches 
of  the  largest  trees, 
where  he  sits  coquet- 
tishly  arranging  his 
feathers,  or  indulging 
in  his  favorite  pastime 
of  hanging  from  some 
giddy  limb  with  his 
head  down,  screaming- 
in  reply  to  a distant 
acquaintance,  or  anx- 
iously surveying  the  prospect  below.  The  sensonte  (cien  sonta , 
or  bird  of  a hundred  songs)  is  the  veritable  American  mocking- 
bird. Nothing  can  surpass  Ins  delicious  notes.  In  shape,  plum- 
age, habits,  and  general  appearance  he  is  scarcely  to  be  distin- 
guished from  the  Northern  bird.  The  bill  is  a trifle  longer,  and 
the  throat  a little  more  full.  One  which  I have  in  my  room  as 
I write  was  given  me,  with  two  others,  in  Amapala  during  my 
first  visit  there.  Two  did  not  survive  the  voyage  to  California. 
The  remaining  one  has  now  attained  his  full  voice  and  plumage, 
and,  besides  possessing  all  the  notes  of  the  American  mocking- 
bird, has  brought  with  him  some  foreign  airs  never  heard  out 
of  the  tropics.  Among  all  feathered  songsters,  give  me  the 
Central  American  sensonte  for  richness  and  variety.  I have  oft- 


COMMERCE  OF  TIGRE  ISLAND. 


137 


en  observed  these  graceful  creatures  bathing  at  some  quiet  rill 
in  Olancho,  where  they  particularly  abound.  Here  they  stand 
daintily  among  the  clean  pebbles,  and  take  turns  in  diving  into 
the  brook,  splashing  boldly  about  with  a quick  flutter  of  wings, 
and  uttering  an  occasional  delighted  squeak.  At  one  place 
where  I used  to  resort  at  morning  for  a similar  purpose,  I was 
always  certain  of  a mocking-bird  concert  from  among  the  neigh- 
boring foliage. 

It  was  not  until  my  rambles  about  the  island  enabled  me  to 
view  the  scenery  from  numerous  elevations  that  I obtained  an 
adequate  idea  of  the  extent  of  open,  undulating  country  it  con- 
tains, sloping  away  from  the  base  of  the  volcano  into  fertile 
plains  capable  of  sustaining  many  thousands  of  people.  The 
soil  is  extremely  rich,  and  covered  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
year  with  a hundred  varieties  of  herbage  and  bushes.  Here  the 
Peruvian  gum — gum  Arabic — and  other  species  of  the  acacia 
flourish.  The  wild  grape,  papaya,  lime , mamaya,  lobelia,  fus- 
tic, mango,  palm  (of  many  varieties),  guajoinol,  mahogany,  ron 
ron,  may  be  pointed  out  in  the  woods,  unclaimed  and  uncared 
for.  Not  a thousandth  part  of  the  arable  land  of  the  island  is 
under  cultivation  ; and  yet,  with  an  energetic  race,  such  as  our 
own  earnest  and  progressive  people,  to  inhabit  and  improve  the 
three  rich  republics  bordering  upon  Fonseca  Bay,  Tigre  Island 
could  hardly  fail  to  become,  in  more  respects  than  one,  the  most 
important  post  on  the  Pacific. 

Amapala  differs  from  every  other  Central  American  town  in 
the  industry  exhibited  by  its  inhabitants,  and  in  this  respect 
bears  a stronger  resemblance  to  an  American  settlement  than 
any  other  I visited.  Here  is  the  only  saw-mill  on  the  Pacific 
shore  of  Honduras.  It  is  owned  by  two  enterprising  Ameri- 
cans, who  imported  the  machinery  from  New  York,  originally 
for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a cotton  manufactory  in  San 
Miguel,  San  Salvador.  The  enterprise  fell  through  for  want  of 
capital  and  labor,  after  which  the  machinery  was  brought  to 
Amapala,  where  for  two  years  it  has  done  good  service  in  con- 
verting into  boards  the  timber  from  the  neighboring  coasts.  The 
principal  market  is  Callao.  A Peruvian  brig  was  loading  in 
the  harbor  during  my  first  visit.  The  lumber,  most  of  which 
is  cedar  of  a very  superior  quality,  brings  from  $35  to  $45  per 


138 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


thousand.  The  towns  surrounding  the  bay,  and  for  some  dis- 
tance into  the  interior,  are  also  an  unfailing  market.  But  one 
run  of  saws  was  in  operation,  which  the  proprietors  said  sup- 
plied the  demand.  The  logs  are  cut  by  whipsaws  in  the  mouth 
of  the  Choluteca  and  Goascoran  rivers,  and  are  rafted  by  bongo 
power  to  the  mill,  where  there  is  sufficient  depth  of  water  to  ad- 
mit them  quite  to  the  platform.  Here  the  drag-chain  takes  the 
logs  at  once  into  the  mill.  The  principal  amusement  at  Ama- 
pala  is  to  stroll  over  to  la  maquina  and  gaze  at  the  Titanic 
force  of  steam-power. 

The  proprietors  had  many  difficulties  to  contend  with,  such 
as  government  restrictions,  prohibitions,  delays,  suspicions,  and 
jealousies.  On  the  entrance  of  Cabanas  into  the  presidency, 
the  necessary  documents  were  at  once  passed.  During  this 
visit  at  Amapala,  the  thermometer  indicated  in  the  shade  at  no 
time  above  99°,  and  in  the  early  morning  I found  it  to  reach 
78°.  The  average  temperature  during  the  day  was  92°.  The 
town  is  so  situated  as  to  receive  the  sea-breeze,  which  sets  in 
at  ten  o’clock  A.M.,  and  continues  until  toward  evening,  when 
the  land-breeze,  at  first  faintly  indicated,  increases,  and  before 
night  grows  into  the  never-failing  chubasco.  At  this  hour  very 
heavy  clouds  blow  rapidly  up  from  the  southward,  and  the  rain 
is  usually  of  great  violence.  The  climate  of  the  island  is  con- 
sidered healthy,  the  fevers  of  the  country  being  of  a less  virulent 
type  than  on  the  adjoining  coast.  No  foreigner,  however,  need 
expect  to  escape  the  fever  in  Central  America  even  with  the 
greatest  degree  of  care. 

With  the  exception  of  two  or  three  shingled  and  clap-board- 
ed dwellings,  the  houses  of  Amapala  are  similar  to  those  of  other 
small  Central  American  towns.  Some  few  are  of  adobe,  but  the 
greater  part  of  cane  and  branches.  The  business  of  the  place  at 
the  time  of  my  visit  was  confined  to  the  small  trade  of  the  house 
of  Dardano  and  Muller.  This  consisted  of  osnaburgs,  drillings, 
hardware,  dry  goods,  and  general  articles  of  European  manufac- 
ture, which  were  received  in  exchange  for  hides,  deer-skins,  ca- 
cao, sugar,  vanilla,  indigo,  and  a few  other  products  of  the  neigh- 
boring coast,  but  in  very  small  quantities.  The  trade  was  ex- 
tremely limited  and  jealously  divided  with  the  adjacent  port  of 
La  Union  in  San  Salvador.  No  regular  exchange  can  be  estab- 


TIGER-HUNTING  ON  SACATE  GRANDE. 


139 


lished  at  Tigre  Island  until  the  government  of  the  country  be- 
comes firmly  fixed,  and  an  end  put  to  the  oft-recurring  revolu- 
tions. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

A Tiger-hunt  on  Sacate  Grande. — Esposescion. — Oysters. — Fish. — Alligators. — 
A Swimming  Escape. — Life  in  Amapala. — Arrival  of  Don  Carlos  and  Fami- 
ly.— Grand  Festivities. — Preparations  for  Departure. — “Hurrying  up”  a Bon- 
go-man.— Another  Night  in  the  Bay.  — La  Brea.  — Nocturnal  Visitors.  — A 
Night  Ramble. — Resolutions  for  the  future. — The  Road  to  Nacaome. — Agua 
Caliente. — Iguanas. — Nacaome. — La  Senora  Caret. — Visiting. — A Review. — 
Climate.  — An  Old  Speculator. — Honduras  Coal-mines. — Pastimes. — New 
method  of  expelling  Dogs. — Demand  for  Medical  Services. — A foreign  “Med- 
ico.”— A Serenade. 

Sacate  Grande  is  the  name  of  a mountainous  island  stand- 
ing a few  miles  north  of  El  Tigre,  and  separated  from  the  main 
land  by  a channel  which,  I believe,  is  quite  dry  at  extreme  low 
tides.  On  a clear,  still  morning,  my  friend  Don  Julio  knocked 
at  my  room  door  with  an  invitation  to  join  a tiger-hunt  to  take 
place  on  that  day.  The  announcement,  coupled  as  it  was  with 
visions  of  exciting  sport  and  a dash  of  romantic  adventure,  was 
enough  to  send  me  out  of  my  hammock  at  a leap.  I dressed  in 
a trice,  and  had  barely  time  to  swallow  the  coffee  which  Rafael 
had  in  readiness  for  me,  when  a loud  call  from  my  companion 
warned  me  that,  in  this  instance  at  least,  the  usual  Spanish 
poco  a poco,  i.  e.,  take  it  easy,  of  Central  America  was  to  be  dis- 
carded. Seizing  my  rifle  and  accoutrements,  I had  only  time  to 
leap  into  the  bongo,  moored  off  the  warehouse,  and  join  the  par- 
ty of  five  it  contained,  ere  the  anchor  was  jerked  on  board,  and, 
spreading  the  huge  sail,  we  sped  away  toward  the  green  wood- 
land forming  the  southern  slope  of  the  island,  where  tigers  were 
fierce  and  plenty.  Once  under  way,  and  I had  time  to  study 
my  companions.  Don  Julio  was  a florid-faced  German,  an  en- 
thusiastic Nimrod,  and  speaking  English  like  a native.  My 
former  indefatigable  guide  in  the  Playa  Bravo  expedition,  and 
two  tigreros,  or  tiger-hunters,  from  the  highlands  of  Nicaragua, 
completed  the  party.  For  some  days  past  had  they  been  pre- 
paring tor  a hunt,  and  were  excited  to  unwonted  activity  by  the 


140 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


news  received  over  night  through  a young  native  from  the  isl- 
and, who  now,  squatting  in  the  bows  of  the  dug-out,  gazed  with 
earnest  eyes  upon  the  preparations.  This  fellow  occupied  a 
small  hut  in  a ravine  near  the  western  shore  of  Sacate  Grande, 
where  he  was  employed  by  a Salvadorean  family  to  tend  the 
cattle,  which,  as  their  property,  roam  over  the  island.  On  the 
night  previous  a young  heifer  had  been  destroyed,  and  he  had 
tracked  the  tiger  to  a dense  thicket  on  the  borders  of  a stream 
emptying  into  the  bay.  All  this  was  told  by  the  voluble  dSTol- 
berto,  who  looked  eagerly  forward  to  the  chase.  Three  ugly  but 
intelligent-looking  dogs  patiently  awaited  the  coming  contest. 

Rounding  the  western  point  of  the  island,  a shallow  little  bay 
lay  before  us,  into  which  the  bow  was  turned,  and  with  the  help 
of  the  oars  we  were  soon  ashore,  and,  following  the  lead  of  our 
boy-guide,  entered  his  rude  chosa,  or  cabin,  where  he  explained 
the  details  of  the  cattle-killing,  and  offered  to  direct  us  to  the 
place  to  which  he  had  tracked  them.  The  Central  American 
tiger  is  one  of  the  most  formidable  animals  on  the  continent, 
and  often  measures  seven  feet  in  length.  The  strength  of  the 
creature  is  such  that  a single  well-directed  spring  suffices  to 
throw  down  a cow,  or,  if  he  fails  in  the  first  attempt,  leaping 
upon  the  back  of  the  victim,  he  fastens  his  fangs  into  the  throat 
and  sucks  its  life-blood.  In  Nicaragua  the  cattle  estates  suffer 
greatly  from  them,  and  in  Olancho  and  Yoro,  in  Honduras,  a 
bounty  is  paid  by  the  local  government  for  their  destruction. 
Hunters  and  vaqueros  are  sometimes  torn  and  killed  by  tigers, 
and  thus  there  seems  to  have  grown  up  a settled  animosity  be- 
tween them. 

These  stories,  which,  having  heard  from  more  reliable  sources, 
I could  believe,  were  now  exaggerated  by  the  excited  crowd,  and 
it  may  be  well  imagined  that  one  whose  previous  sporting  had 
been  mainly  confined  to  quail  and  snipe  shooting,  with  an  occa- 
sional rifle-crack  at  a coyote  or  antelope  in  California,  entered 
this  new  and  rather  perilous  arena  with  some  trepidation.  Mine 
was  the  only  rifle  in  the  party,  the  rest  being  armed  with  En- 
glish guns,  and  excepting  that  of  the  German,  sorry  enough  weap- 
ons for  such  service.  The  arrangements  being  made,  each 
shouldered  his  piece,  and,  taking  a muddy  cattle-trail  leading 
among  low,  stunted  shrubbery,  not  unlike  the  whortleberry  bush 


COMING  TO  CLOSE  QUARTERS. 


141 


of  the  North,  we  proceeded  in  single  file  toward  the  jungle  des- 
ignated by  our  guide,  and  which  he  pointed  out  in  a wooded  ra- 
vine on  a rising  ground  beyond.  After  a few  minutes’  walk, 
our  boy  stopped  and  showed  us  the  tracks  of  the  beast,  and  far- 
ther on  we  came  to  a break  in  the  bushes,  where,  after  killing 
the  heifer,  he  had  dragged  the  body  through  the  underbrush. 
The  tracks  were  of  such  formidable  dimensions  that,  together 
with  my  own  inexperience  and  want  of  faith  in  the  craft  of  my 
companions,  I found  my  tiger-hunting  mania  growing  moment- 
arily less  as  the  probability  of  his  appearing  became  more  cer- 
tain. 

The  two  boys  were  now  sent  across  the  ravine  with  directions 
to  trace  the  footprints,  and  ascertain  if  his  tigership  had  ascend- 
ed the  hill  beyond,  a fact  which  the  spongy  nature  of  the  ravine 
would  enable  them  to  detect  at  once.  In  a few  minutes  they 
returned  with  the  intelligence  that  he  had  not  passed  that  way 
since  the  previous  night ; and  as  the  traces  we  had  seen  thus  far 
showed  his  steps  to  have  been  into  the  ravine,  we  were  now  cer- 
tain of  his  locality.  How  to  dislodge  him  was  the  next  point. 
The  two  tigreros  showed  no  disposition  to  enter  the  place  where 
the  soft,  yielding  soil  offered  no  chance  to  escape  before  the  leaps 
of  the  velvet-footed  enemy.  Up  to  this  time  the  dogs  had  been 
kept  with  a contrivance  of  raw-hide  slips  around  their  noses  by 
way  of  muzzles.  They  were  shaggy,  diminutive  creatures,  with 
none  of  the  usual  yelping  enthusiasm  shown  by  the  canine  race 
when  about  attacking  in  company  with  man  a common  enemy. 
At  a gesture  and  a half-uttered  s — s — st,  all  their  latent  fury 
seemed  concentrated  in  their  flaming  eyes.  They  knew  their 
work  was  about  to  commence.  The  apparent  apathy  gave  place 
to  savage  howls  and  gnashing  of  jaws.  My  respect  for  them 
began  to  increase.  At  the  removal  of  the  muzzles,  the  three 
disappeared  into  the  thicket.  The  tigreros  awaited  the  result 
with  staring  eyes  and  motionless  attitudes.  A sense  of  ap- 
proaching danger  stole  over  me  in  spite  of  my  efforts  to  conceal 
it,  and  though  I asked  hurriedly  if  the  animal  would  make  his 
appearance  in  our  direction,  the  response  of  my  nearest  neighbor 
was  only  an  unintelligible  whisper.  The  sound  of  the  dogs  as 
they  vanished  in  the  woods  was  silenced  for  a moment,  but  im- 
mediately we  heard  a terrific  dying  yell,  telling  too  plainly  the 


142 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


fate  of  one.  Then  came  a continuous  snarl  and  roar,  mingled 
with  the  quick  bark  of  the  remaining  dogs  and  the  crashing  of 
underbrush.  A moment  after,  the  bushes  near  a small  gully  be- 
came violently  agitated.  I fixed  my  eyes  intently  on  the  spot, 
involuntarily  edging  away  from  the  place,  springing  back  in 
alarm  as  the  yielding  bushes  made  room  for  the  tiger,  who  threw 
himself  clear  of  the  copse  with  a light,  cat-like  leap,  and  stood  a 
moment  in  savage  uncertainty  whether  to  retreat  again  into  the 
jungle  or  face  the  human  foes  who  environed  him.  The  dogs 
followed  close  upon  his  heels.  The  whole  affair  occupied  but  a 
moment.  I remember  the  whiskered  jaws,  the  fierce,  gleaming 
eye,  the  velvety  fur,  the  nervous  twitching  of  the  curling  tail,  the 
panting  of  the  dun-colored  belly,  as  the  beast,  directing  his  gaze 
upon  the  place  where  Nolberto  and  myself  were  standing,  made 
a rapid  bound  toward  us.  My  first  impulse  was  to  fire ; but  a 
strange  fascination,  which  I am  unable  to  account  for,  prevent- 
ed me. 

“ Cuidado  ! por  Dios  cuidado  /”  shouted  the  others,  while, 
at  the  same  time,  three  shots  rang  in  my  ears. 

The  next  moment  I was  on  my  face  at  full  length,  and  the 
tiger  stretched  upon  the  ground  within  four  feet  of  me,  creating 
a whirlwind  of  grass  and  torn  sod  in  his  dying  struggles.  As 
he  sprang  forward  I had  started  from  his  path,  and,  stumbling, 
fell  in  the  very  spot  where,  but  for  the  bullets  that  arrested  his 
career,  he  must  in  another  moment  have  stood. 

I was  not  long  in  regaining  my  feet  and  lodging  a rifle  bullet 
in  his  head,  which  nearly  finished  him.  The  tigreros  now  ap- 
proached, and  deliberately  searched  his  heart  with  their  glitter- 
ing cuchillos , or  butcher-knives.  A long,  gasping  yawn,  a con- 
vulsive play  of  the  tail,  and  all  was  over.  They  wiped  their 
knives  on  his  glossy  coat,  and  one,  venturing  into  the  copse, 
dragged  out  the  mangled  body  of  the  dog.  Not  the  mark  of  a 
tooth  was  to  be  found,  but  apparently  one  blow  of  the  great 
paw,  bristling  with  claws,  had  disemboweled  him.  The  tiger 
measured  six  feet  four  inches  from  the  rump-bone  to  the  tip  of 
the  nose,  and  was  admitted  by  all  to  be  one  of  the  largest  ever 
killed  on  the  island.  The  dogs  evinced  none  of  the  usual  de- 
sire to  tear  the  body  or  yelp  around  it,  but,  smelling  at  the 
wounds,  skulked  stealthily  about,  eyeing  the  tigreros.  Half  an 


OYSTERS  ON  ESPOSESCION. 


143 


hour  sufficed  to  take  off  the  skin ; it  was  thrown  into  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bongo,  after  which,  thanks  to  the  providence  of  Nol- 
berto,  a palatable  breakfast  was  spread  in  the  hut,  to  which  all 
paid  their  respects.  This  was  my  first  tiger-hunt,  and,  though 
my  companions  were  sure  there  was  a female  with  cubs  in  the 
vicinity,  and  offered  to  renew  the  sport  on  the  following  day,  I 
was  content  to  make  this  my  last  adventure  of  the  kind  on  Sa- 
cate  Grande. 

Some  of  the  finest  cattle  in  the  state  are  found  grazing  here. 
The  island  is  the  property  of  two  Salvadorean  families,  who 
value  the  land  and  cattle  at  $40,000.  A medicinal  spring  ex- 
ists on  the  island,  to  which  some  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast 
towns  attribute  miraculous  properties.  This  spring  is  said  to 
have  made  its  appearance  during  the  great  eruption  of  Consi- 
2auna  in  1835.  Sacate  Grande  has  been  mentioned  as  the  ter- 

O 

minus  of  the  proposed  Honduras  Inter-oceanic  Rail-road,  but 
its  lack  of  a port  like  that  of  Amapala  will  always  prevent 
its  being  used  for  that  purpose.  After  our  meal  of  tortillas, 
coffee,  and  roast  chicken,  we  re-entered  the  bongo  and  rowed 
over  to  the  adjacent  island  of  Esposescion,  where  the  finest 
oysters  in  the  bay  are  found  in  inexhaustible  quantities.  At 
low  tide  our  men  started  out,  and  in  half  an  hour  had  loaded 
the  bongo  with  these  worshipful  shell-fish.  The  feast  we  aft- 
erward made  on  them  at  El  Tigre  forever  disabused  my  mind 
of  the  idea  that  good  oysters  can  only  be  obtained  outside  the 
tropics.  For  fatness  and  flavor,  I have  never  eaten  better  in 
the  United  States. 

With  a fair  wind  and  a bongo-load  of  oysters,  we  once  more 
headed  for  Amapala,  and  as  we  lowered  our  sail  and  prepared 
to  land,  the  inevitable  and  merciless  chubasco  was  upon  us  with 
a torrent  of  rain,  drenching  us  to  the  skin.  The  Bay  of  Fon- 
seca is  not  only  rich  in  shell-fish,  but  its  waters  literally  swarm 
with  a variety  of  delicious  pan  and  other  fish,  whose  names, 
even,  are  unknown.  During  two  visits  of  several  weeks,  each 
at  different  seasons,  I saw  no  piscatory  attempt  made  by  the 
Amapalans,  and  the  only  fish  eaten  while  I was  on  the  island 
were  the  product  of  a few  hours  with  hook  and  line  in  a small 
bongo,  in  company  with  my  servant,  who  did  little  else  than 
take  the  fish  from  my  hook  and  hand  me  bait.  Sturgeon  and 


144 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


sharks  abound,  hut  besides,  there  are  tomcod,  perch,  rock-fish 
(in  the  outer  bay),  smelts,  and  at  least  a dozen  others,  the  names 
of  which  I could  never  learn.  A fishing  vessel  might  realize 
good  returns  in  this  bay  with  apparatus  for  salting.  Clams  and 
crabs  are  had  for  the  trouble  of  taking,  and  wild  fowl  swarm 
upon  the  playas  and  mud-flats  of  the  main  land.  I know  of  no 
more  promising  locality  in  America  for  bagging  snipe,  duck,  cur- 
lew, and  birds  of  that  description,  than  is  offered  in  many  lo- 
calities in  the  Bay  of  Fonseca.  Alligators  infest  the  waters. 
From  the  occasional  specimens  I saw  off  the  unfrequented  pla- 
yas, I am  convinced  that  this  is  the  veritable  reptile  of  the  fresh- 
water rivers,  whose  wakeful  eye,  and  grinning,  horrid  mouth,  has 
been  the  target  of  so  many  thousand  rifle-shots  along  the  Mis- 
sissippi. In  Fonseca  Bay  they  pass  fearlessly  among  the  boats 
at  anchor  at  Amapala,  and  evidently  go  from  salt  water  into  the 
fresh  bayous  and  swampy  coasts  of  the  continent  without 
trouble.  I was  not  easily  convinced  of  the  alligator  frequent- 
ing the  coast  until  one  day,  from  a large  lighter  anchored  a 
hundred  yards  from  the  shore,  and  to  which,  with  a friend,  I 
had  swam  while  bathing,  I observed  a long  log  floating  inshore 
from  us.  I drew  the  attention  of  my  companion,  and  proposed 
to  swim  toward  it,  when  he  called  out  that  it  was  an  alligator. 
I did  not  believe  it,  however,  and  it  soon  drifted  out  of  sight. 
We  gained  the  beach,  and  not  long  afterward  the  log  again  made 
its  appearance,  when,  a gun  being  brought  from  the  warehouse, 
a charge  of  buckshot  was  fired  at  it.  The  water  was  at  once 
violently  agitated,  and  the  alligator  (for  such  it  really  was) 
plunged  beneath  the  surface  with  a sweep  of  his  tail,  leaving  no 
farther  doubt  as  to  his  identity.  Thereafter,  our  swimming  ex- 
cursions were  confined  to  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  shore. 

I was,  at  last,  beginning  to  weary  of  Tigre  Island.  I had 
traveled  its  entire  circumference,  hunted  over  its  length  and 
breadth,  examined  its  curiosities,  and  received  my  naturalization 
papers  in  full  by  passing  through  the  ordeal  of  calentura,  a 
certificate  of  which  I carried  in  my  yellow  complexion  and  lus- 
treless eyes.  Its  lions  once  seen,  Robinson  Crusoe  never  be- 
came more  disgusted  with  Juan  Fernandez  than  do  the  unin- 
itiated with  Tigre  Island.  I heard  accounts  of  a cool,  upland 
region  thousands  of  feet  above  us,  in  the  far  interior,  where  the 


AMAPALA  IN  AN  UPKOAE. 


145 


coast  fevers  rarely  if  ever  penetrate,  and  whose  genial  climate 
would  restore  the  human  to  the  pale  cheek,  and  revive  the  ener- 
gies shattered  by  the  miasma  and  malaria  of  the  damp  lowlands. 
There  was  my  goal ; for  that  region  I had  left  California  ; arid 
though  it  was  all-important  to  await  the  arrival  of  Don  Carlos, 
yet  the  time  seemed  thrown  away  until  I could  reach  at  least 
Tegucigalpa,  of  whose  fame  I heard  such  accounts  that  I longed, 
as  the  countryman  pines  for  his  first  glimpse  of  the  shire  town, 
to  view  this  city  of  the  mountains,  the  very  name  of  which,  until 
shortly  before,  I had  never  heard.  At  last  a boat  from  the  ern- 
barcadero  of  Choluteca  made  its  appearance,  and,  casting  anchor 
off  the  little  town,  its  living  freight  was  quickly  landed,  consist- 
ing of  Senor  Dardano  and  three  daughters.  Their  journey  had 
been  an  arduous  and  perilous  one.  Leaving  New  Orleans,  they 
had  been  twenty-two  days  under  sail  to  Omoa,  on  the  Carib- 
bean Sea,  whence  they  had  traveled  by  mule  conveyance,  via 
Comayagua  and  Tegucigalpa,  across  the  continent.  I was 
agreeably  surprised  to  find  three  young  ladies  with  the  graces 
and  accomplishments  attendant  upon  a New  York  education, 
and  conversing  fluently  in  English,  as  well  as  in  French,  Ital- 
ian, and  Spanish.  As  soon  as  the  fatigues  of  the  journey  had 
been  met  by  the  required  repose,  and  the  usual  formal  introduc- 
tions gone  through  with,  I presented  my  letters,  and  soon  came 
to  an  understanding  with  my  host. 

On  the  following  morning  the  island  was  in  an  uproar.  The 
commandante  of  Amapala  hoisted  the  national  flag,  and  threw 
open  his  little  grog-shop,  of  which  business  he  has  the  monopo- 
ly in  Tigre  Island,  and  pays  the  supreme  government  thirty  dol- 
lars per  month  for  the  license.  A salute  was  fired  from  the 
door  of  the  cuartel,  and  the  Sardinian  flag  hoisted  over  the  con- 
sular residence  of  Don  Carlos.  Old  and  young  turned  out,  and 
flocked  to  the  residence  of  the  new-comers  to  offer  congratula- 
tions and  hear  the  news  from  the  interior.  A bullock,  which  had 
been  tied  to  the  sacrificial  stake  for  a week  past,  awaiting  the 
arrival  of  the  party,  was  killed  and  distributed  among  the  friends 
of  the  family,  and  by  night  the  little  town  was  in  fine  condition 
to  sing  or  shout,  as  the  case  might  be,  the  praises  of  Don  Car- 
los. Fireworks  and  vivas , salvos  of  artillery  and  the  popping 
of  champagne  corks,  the  twanging  of  guitars,  and  the  merry  con- 

K 


146 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


tra  dance  and  waltz,  whiled  away  the  time  until  the  small  hours. 
Amapala  has  rarely  seen  a more  convivial  day  since  it  sprung 
into  existence  in  1846,  under  the  auspices  of  the  patron  whose 
fame  the  inhabitants  were  now  celebrating.  The  merry-making 
at  last  came  to  an  end,  and  after  a few  days  of  negotiation  and 
arrangement,  in  which  the  bad  English  of  Don  Carlos  was  only 
equaled  by  my  own  bad  Italian,  the  final  polish  was  given  to 
my  formal  Spanish  letters  of  introduction  to  the  elite  of  Tegu- 
cigalpa, including  President  Cabanas  and  the  various  govern- 
ment officials.  The  bongo  was  now  prepared  for  La  Brea,  the 
port  of  Nacaome,  bongo-men  engaged  and  paid  beforehand, 
“ adios ” reluctantly  uttered  to  pretty  faces,  kind  wishes  express- 
ed in  good  English,  and  on  a warm,  rainy  evening,  at  six  o’clock, 
behold  me  directing  the  conveyance  of  my  baggage  to  the  beach, 
where  is  anchored  the  time-honored  launch  of  the  famous  Ba- 
chicha.  I had  repeatedly  ordered  Bafael,  my  faithful  Olancha- 
no,  not  to  leave  the  baggage,  but  keep  an  eye  through  the  dark- 
ness on  the  bongo-men.  The  patron  had  promised  to  be  ready 
at  eight  o’clock ; but  that  time  passing,  and  mistrustful  of  the 
wretch,  I sent  Bafael  to  him  to  ascertain  why  he  had  not  called 
for  my  trunks.  His  reply  was  that  “ bongo-men  never  put  to 
sea  in  the  rain.”  In  truth,  it  was  raining  with  tropical  fury, 
and  the  night  seemed  most  unpropitious  for  starting ; but  the 
final  “ adios ” having  been  said,  and  all  arranged  for  immediate 
departure,  I was  determined  to  start,  if  only  for  very  spite,  as  I 
told  the  patron  ; but  he  only  puffed  his  cigarrito  the  harder, 
and  observed, 

“ Es  imposible , senor  ! no  puedo  salir  Jn 

He  looked  to  me  for  the  customary  shrug  and  concernant  re- 
ply, and  was  evidently  prepared  for  the  usual  argument.  The 
words  were  hardly  uttered,  however,  before  I had  commenced 
pummeling  him  over  the  head  with  the  apology  for  an  umbrella 
which  I still  had  with  me.  The  effect  was  magical.  The  pre- 
scription was  until  then  unheard  of  in  Amapala.  From  the 
most  apathetic,  laziest  dog  on  the  island,  my  patron  became 
suddenly  imbued  with  an  energy  that  astonished  himself  as  well 
as  me,  and  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time  he  had  mustered 
his  men,  deposited  my  baggage  in  the  bongo,  taken  his  final 
drink  at  the  cuartel,  and,  approaching  me  with  a submissive  air, 


A NIGHT  AT  PORT  LA  BREA. 


147 


asked  me  to  do  him  the  favor  to  mount  his  shoulders  and  he  car- 
ried through  the  water  to  the  bongo.  It  was  not  impossible,  after 
all ; and,  seeing  that  affairs  were  now  in  proper  train,  I coiled  my- 
self away  in  the  little  chosa  and  was  soon  asleep,  despite  the  pour- 
ing rain  and  the  blinding  lightning,  which  flashed  through  the 
night  among  the  inland  mountains.  It  was  yet  dark  when  an 
unwonted  rattling  of  oars  awoke  me  from  a feverish  slumber. 
Springing  up,  I found  we  were  far  up  a river  or  arm  of  Fonseca 
Bay  known  as  the  “ Estero  de  la  Brea.”  The  headway  already 
acquired  by  the  bongo  shot  her  toward  the  western  bank, 
which,  through  the  darkness  and  mist,  seemed  to  me  a second 
edition  of  Zempisque,  and,  if  possible,  even  more  desolate.  We 
sprang  ashore,  still  wet  with  the  rains  of  the  previous  night. 

A rough  but  spacious  adobe  hut,  known  here  as  the  aduana, 
or  custom-house,  stands  nearest  the  water,  and  some  dozen 
squalid  cabins,  scattered  over  an  acre  of  ground,  compose  the 
town.  A few  half-naked  wretches  were  crouching  under  the 
eaves  of  the  custom-house,  whose  faint  “Adios,  senor!”  only 
showed  they  were  alive.  My  baggage  was  soon  put  ashore, 
and  the  bongo  immediately  left  on  her  return  trip  to  Tigre  Isl- 
and. With  the  departing  splash  of  their  oars  the  little  town 
relapsed  again  into  silence,  undisturbed  save  by  the  scream  of 
the  night-owl,  or  the  harsh  voice  of  the  bittern  from  the  sur- 
rounding thicket.  Rafael  gathered  my  blankets,  and  made  up 
an  apology  for  a bed  among  the  heavy-breathing  squad  under 
the  eaves  ; but  this  delicate  little  attention  was  rendered  nuga- 
tory by  the  keen  scent  of  millions  of  sand-flies,  who  were  not 
long  in  ascertaining  the  arrival  of  a thin-skinned  Northerner 
among  them.  To  sleep,  or  even  lie  still  among  such  clouds  of 
these  pests,  was  out  of  the  question  ; so,  gun  in  hand,  I took  a 
well-beaten  cattle-path  leading  toward  a neighboring  wood- 
crowned  hill,  and,  half  unconsciously,  found  myself  wandering 
into  a darkened  solitude,  where  the  humming  of  insects  and  the 
monotonous  croak  of  the  tree-toad  were  the  only  sounds.  Alone, 
and  gazing  half  dreamily  into  the  “ glimmering  landscape,”  that 
lost  itself  below  and  beyond  the  night  shades,  I began  to  real- 
ize the  true  nature  of  the  task  I had  undertaken.  With  the 
departure  of  the  bongo,  the  chain  of  communication  with  Nica- 
ragua and  California  seemed  effectually  cut  off. 


148 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


I was  now  on  the  main  land,  with  the  continent  before  and 
above  me ; its  rugged  cordillera,  dividing  the  two  oceans,  dimly 
defined  against  the  gray  dawn,  had  yet  to  be  crossed  and  de- 
scended toward  the  Atlantic  slope,  and  important  privileges  to 
be  obtained,  upon  which  depended  the  hopes  of  far-distant  and 
expectant  friends.  Between  me  and  the  goal  I aimed  at,  prob- 
ably not  five  persons  could  be  found  understanding  a word  of 
English  ; and  although  the  interior  is  the  most  populous  and 
civilized  portion  of  the  state,  I seemed  to  be  entering  a terra 
incognita , the  mysterious  character  of  which  increased  the  deeper 
it  was  penetrated.  Aurora  had  cast  her  rosy  tints  along  the 
horizon.  The  lowing  of  cattle,  barking  of  dogs,  and  incessant 
scolding  of  countless  parrots  flitting  among  the  woods,  impart- 
ed a livelier  air  to  the  hitherto  sombre  prospect,  and,  stepping 
down  to  the  nearest  rill,  I performed  my  morning  ablutions, 
after  which  I re-entered  the  miserable  little  hamlet  cheerful  and 
happy.  Rafael  had  already  missed  me,  and  gazed  with  stupid 
wonder  when  I answered  to  his  inquiries  that  I had  been  hunt- 
ing. While  he  was  saddling  some  mules  which  I had  succeed- 
ed in  hiring  for  the  trip  to  Nacaome  at  four  dollars  each,  I en- 
tered the  nearest  hut,  and  with  a real  purchased  a large  wooden 
bowl  of  milk,  warm  from  the  cow,  which,  with  the  biscuit  we 
had  brought  from  Amapala,  made  a palatable  breakfast.  At 
seven  o’clock  we  were  mounted  and  making  our  way  over  a 
level  and  apparently  very  fertile  country,  intersected  with  nu- 
merous small  streams  discharging  into  the  bay.  The  freshness 
of  the  early  morning  air  continued  until  about  nine  o’clock, 
when  the  heat  became  almost  intolerable.  Even  the  feathered 
tribe  seemed  to  have  fled  to  the  thickest  groves  to  escape  it. 
With  such  a temperature  in  October,  it  occurred  to  me  that  in 
the  hottest  months  the  Pacific  coast  of  Honduras  must  be  a 
species  of  Pandemonium,  unfit  for  human  habitation.  Half  way 
on  our  route  to  Nacaome  we  passed  the  hacienda  of  Agua  Ca- 
liente , so  named  from  a hot  sulphurous  spring  taking  its  rise  in 
the  vicinity.  This  is  the  property  of  Senor  Mariano  Yalle,  who 
is  counted  one  of  the  wealthiest  cattle-owners  in  the  Department 
of  Choluteca. 

The  road  was  here  defined  by  the  first  stone  wall  I had  seen 
in  the  country,  along  the  crest  of  which  dozens  of  hideous  igua- 


ENTERTAINMENT  AT  NACAOME. 


149 


THE  IGUANA. 


nas  were  squatted  flat  upon  the  stones,  regarding  us  with  a fix- 
ed stare  as  we  passed.  Ugly  as  they  appear,  they  are  harmless, 
and  the  females  are  considered  palatable  food  by  the  natives. 
The  woods  through  which  we  rode  were  composed  of  robles, 
guanacastes,  a few  mahogany  trees,  guapinoles,  mangroves,  and 
an  infinity  of  acacias,  and  nameless  thorns  and  bright-leaved 
trees,  whose  beauties  the  eye  could  never  weary  of  contemplat- 
ing. Under  the  shade  of  the  largest  were  herds  of  fat  cattle, 
all  branded  similarly  to  those  of  California,  and  apparently  with 
the  same  quaint  fiarros.  At  ten  o’clock  we  arrived  at  Naca- 
ome,  the  principal  town  of  this  department.  My  Nicaraguan 
and  Amapalan  friends  had  kindly  furnished  me  with  letters  of 
introduction  to  several  leading  residents,  without  which  my  re- 
ception might  possibly  have  been  less  cordial.  We  trotted  into 
the  Plaza,  and  rode  to  the  adobe  hut  of  a little  deformed  French- 
man, named  Caret,  who,  in  a paroxysm  of  hospitality  at  Ama- 
pala,  had  given  me  a letter  of  introduction  to  his  wife,  recom- 
mending me,  he  said,  to  her  special  hospitality  and  regard.  I 
had  cherished  this  letter  with  particular  care,  and  delivered  it  at 
the  door  with  as  much  grace  as  I could  assume  for  the  occasion. 
The  reception  was  enthusiastic,  and  I was  requested  to  dis- 
mount and  call  the  house  my  own.  Eight  days  did  I reside  at 
the  hospitable  house  of  Monsieur  Caret,  regaling  his  screeching 
brats  with  confectionery,  and  on  my  departure  for  the  interior 
the  hostess  charged  me  three  times  the  usual  price,  having  count- 
ed on  my  wealth  by  the  profuseness  of  my  liberality.  On  my 


150 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


remonstrating,  and  referring  to  the  letter  of  Monsieur,  recom- 
mending me  to  reside  at  the  house, 

“Oh!”  sjaid  she;  “here,  you  may  see  the  letter,  if  you 
wish.” 

It  actually  spoke  of  my  lengthy  purse  and  the  liberality  of 
its  owner ! Considering  that  I had  eaten  nothing  but  a few 
biscuit,  had  slept  in  my  own  hammock,  and  had,  moreover,  been 
obliged  to  hire  an  extra  mule  at  La  Brea  to  transport  a number 
of  boxes  the  hideous  little  wretch  had  politely  intrusted  to  my 
charge  on  leaving  Amapala,  I left  the  casa  of  Monsieur  Caret 
with  the  reflection  that  here  was  the  first  instance  in  Central 
America  where  an  attempt  had  been  made  to  cheat  me. 

My  arrival  in  Nacaome  was  the  signal  for  half  a dozen  young- 
sters, in  a state  of  nature,  to  cluster  round  the  door  and  venture 
remarks  upon  my  appearance.  Swinging  in  my  hammock, 
which  Rafael  had  slung  for  me  in  the  corridor,  I enjoyed  the 
gentle  breeze  that  swept  through  the  thick  crush  of  leaves 
around  the  town.  At  noon  the  heat  was  almost  unbearable, 
but  toward  evening  I ventured  out,  and,  armed  with  a package 
of  introductory  letters,  visited  several  families,  among  whom 
were  those  of  Senor  Ledo  Matute,  Senor  Jose  Maria  Rugame, 
formerly  Minister  of  Finance  under  Lindo,  and  General  Manuel 
Escobar,  Commandante  Militar  of  the  Department  of  Choluteca. 
This  latter  gentleman  had  already  received  letters  from  Cas- 
tellon  at  Leon,  advising  him  of  my  arrival,  and  requesting  him 
to  extend  every  facility  to  my  enterprise.  He  handed  me  a 
bundle  of  letters  from  Castellon,  which  had  been  awaiting  my 
arrival,  introducing  me  favorably  to  Cabanas,  and  other  distin- 
guished public  men  in  Honduras.  Nacaome  contains  about 
three  thousand  inhabitants,  among  whoni  are  several  families 
celebrated,  in  this  country  of  indiscriminate  amalgamation,  for 
the  extreme  purity  of  their  Castilian  descent.  Some  of  the 
women  are  pretty,  and  extremely  white,  but  with  the  listless, 
sallow,  waxy  look  always  marking  the  resident  of  tropical  low- 
lands. Fevers  are  prevalent  and  fatal  here  in  the  hot  months, 
and  the  situation  of  the  place  in  relation  to  the  adjacent  foot- 
hills and  spurs  of  the  Cordilleras  make  it  one  of  the  hottest  and 
most  unpleasant  on  the  coast — much  more  so  than  the  town  of 
Choluteca,  which  is  higher,  and  more  open  to  the  effects  of  the 


A COAL  SPECULATOR, 


151 


breeze.  It  stands  in  an  amphitheatre  of  hills,  in  the  stifling- 
atmosphere  of  which  the  foreigner  gasps  for  breath.  Here 
were  the  usual  dirty  little  cuartel  and  handful  of  fever-stricken 
soldiers,  whose  negro  drummer  made  the  circuit  of  the  Plaza 
three  times  a day,  denoting  with  his  noisy  instrument  that  the 
place  was  under  martial  law.  General  Escobar  took  me  to  see 
a review  of  the  troops  the  day  after  my  arrival.  He  attached 
a great  value  to  the  opinion  of  a Norte  Americano , and  hoped 
I would  represent,  on  my  return  home,  the  perfection  of  drill  I 
witnessed.  It  was  actually  a poor  farce,  and  reminded  me  of 
my  school-boy  days  of  “playing  soldier.”  But,  with  efficient 
leaders  and  good  arms,  these  fellows  fight  with  a courage  hardly 
to  be  expected  from  their  outward  appearance. 

I had  not  been  long  in  town  when  the  news  of  my  enterprise 
to  “ buy  the  country”  had  spread  far  and  near.  Among  my 
many  visitors  was  an  old  Salvadoreno,  by  name  Don  Lucas 
Resuleo,  who,  after  introducing  himself,  said  he  had  been  expa- 
triated by  the  Servile  party  for  the  leading  part  he  had  taken  in 
the  Liberal  cause  after  the  expulsion  of  Morazan.  He  was  ex- 
tremely anxious  to  know  the  object  of  my  visit  to  Honduras, 
having  read  the  “puff”  adroitly  inserted  by  my  friend  Chico 
Dias  in  the  Nueva  Era  of  Leon  ; but,  my  account  not  satisfy- 
ing him,  he  offered  me  his  snuff-box,  and  complimented  me  by 
saying  how  happy  I ought  to  be  in  counting  myself  the  coun- 
tryman of  Washington.  On  the  following  morning  I was 
aroused  from  my  hammock  by  the  servant  of  Don  Lucas,  bear- 
ing a written  invitation  from  his  master  to  take  coffee  with  him. 
As  this  is  the  excess  of  politeness  in  Honduras,  and  a ready- 
saddled  mule  stood  at  the  door  awaiting  my  movements,  I 
could  not  refuse.  The  result  of  my  visit  was  a present  from 
the  old  Don  of  complete  files  of  several  old  Guatemalan  and 
Honduras  newspapers,  illustrated  with  the  writings  of  Valle, 
Barrundia,  Cacho,  and  Marure,  comprising  the  best  history  of 
Central  America  to  be  obtained  since  the  Independence. 

Two  hours’  conversation  with  the  old  politician  placed  me  in 
possession  of  many  additional  facts  of  great  value.  But  the 
principal  object  of  his  attentions  to  me  was  to  obtain  my  opin- 
ion regarding  some  specimens  of  coal,  or  a crocky  substance  re- 
sembling it,  which  he  said  came  from  his  mine  near  the  mouth 


152 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


of  the  Goascoran  River,  emptying  into  the  Bay  of  Fonseca. 
The  pieces  somewhat  resembled  English  cannel  coal,  without  its 
glossy  appearance.  I was  at  a loss  to  determine  whether  it 
was  stone  or  coal ; if  the  latter,  it  must  have  contained  a con- 
siderable portion  of  foreign  matter.  A specimen  which  I saw 
burning  left  a mass  of  clinker,  and  emitted  a small,  feeble  flame. 
Bon  Lucas  had  already  carried  his  shaft  to  a depth  of  three 
varas  (that  being  prescribed  by  the  mining  laws  of  the  country 
to  insure  possession),  and,  although  laughed  at  as  a crazy  fool 
by  his  less  industrious  neighbors,  he  felt  quite  sure  of  eventu- 
ally realizing  a fortune.  I could  not  repress  a smile  at  the 
breathless  attention  the  old  man  gave  to  my  opinion,  rendered, 
perhaps,  a trifle  too  favorable.  He  evidently  considered  a word 
from  a foreigner  worth  more  than  volumes  of  praise,  or  the  re- 
verse, from  one  of  his  own  countrymen.  He  professed  to  have 
a paper,  signed  by  Mr.  E.  G.  Squier,  to  the  effect  that  good  coal 
could  be  found  along  the  banks  of  the  Goascoran,  and  desired 
me  to  add  my  own ; but,  having  never  seen  that  section  of 
the  state,  I was  unable  to  do  so.  We  finally  compromised 
matters  by  my  exchanging  signatures  with  him — an  act  of  ex- 
treme friendship  in  Central  America.  Coal  undoubtedly  exists 
on  the  Pacific  slope  of  Honduras  and  San  Salvador,  but,  like 
most  of  that  found  within  the  tropics,  it  lacks  the  weight  and 
consistency  of  the  northern  article.  Of  the  advantages  to  ac- 
crue from  the  establishment  of  a coal  depot  at  Amapala,  to  be 
supplied  from  these  mines,  capitalists  are  already  aware  from 
other  sources. 

I had  arranged  at  Amapala  with  a nephew  of  General  Ca- 
banas, who  was  on  his  way  to  Tegucigalpa,  to  meet  me  at  Na- 
caome,  and,  anxious  to  secure  his  company  in  this  my  first  jour- 
ney in  the  country,  I waited  a number  of  days  for  his  arrival. 
During  this  sojourn  I had  ample  time  to  arrange  my  plans  for 
the  future,  as  well  as  to  observe  the  little  world  around  me. 
At  early  dawn  I walked  to  the  banks  of  the  river  and  plunged 
into  its  pure  waters,  sparkling  merrily  along  beneath  a blue  sky 
and  among  the  greenish  foliage ; thence  returning,  I found  a cup 
of  chocolate  or  coffee  awaiting  me,  which  dispatched,  and  a 
couple  of  dgarros  whiffed  into  smoke  in  the  luxurious  ham- 
mock, I donned  my  broad-brimmed  hat  and  sallied  out  in  quest 


MEDICAL  PRACTICE  EXTRAORDINARY. 


153 


of  novelties,  and  to  return  some  of  the  numerous  visits  made  me 
by  the  kind-hearted  but  inquisitive  inhabitants.  At  ten  o’clock 
the  streets  were  generally  deserted  save  by  a score  or  two  of 
donkeys,  hogs,  and  dogs,  who  seemed  the  only  specimens  of  an- 
imated life  capable  of  resisting  the  burning  sun.  Here,  as  in 
all  other  Central  American  places,  the  dogs  enjoy  the  freedom 
of  the  town.  Numbers  of  these  lanky  creatures,  covered  with 
sores  and  fleas,  entered  the  house  on  the  first  two  days,  and 
ensconced  themselves  around  my  hammock,  from  whence  nei- 
ther the  loud  “perro!”  of  the  sehora  nor  the  scolding  of 
the  other  women  could  dislodge  them.  The  agony  of  flea- 
bites  soon  convinced  me  that  either  I or  the  dogs  must  quit 
the  house.  Arming  myself  with  a club,  I declared  war,  and 
opened  on  the  offensive  at  once,  to  the  wonder  and  fear  of  the 
senora,  who  from  childhood  had  regarded  the  dogs  as  a necessa- 
ry and  unavoidable  evil.  From  my  hammock  I left  my  mark 
on  every  gay  Lothario  of  a cur  in  the  street,  who  at  length, 
finding  tlieh  ancient  privileges  about  to  be  disputed,  watched  for 
my  coming,  and  avoided  me  like  a pestilence.  When  tired  of 
this  amusement  I usually  resigned  the  club  to  Rafael,  who  stood 
patiently  at  the  door,  like  another  Cerberus,  ready  to  “ slam” 
his  weapon  upon  the  heads  of  all  canine  intruders. 

I was  reposing  as  usual  one  sultry  afternoon,  watching  the 
clouds  sweeping  past  the  distant  mountain  peaks,  when  a serv- 
ant from  the  house  of  Seiior  Rugame  rode  up  to  the  door  of  my 
little  residence,  and,  quickly  dismounting,  desired  me  to  ride  to 
the  house  of  his  master,  whose  little  daughter  was  grievously 
ill.  Every  foreigner  is  supposed  in  Central  America  to  be  a 
doctor,  and,  should  the  traveler  once  succeed  in  effecting  some 
fortunate  hap-hazard  cure,  his  reputation  is  thenceforth  made. 
He  is  sought  from  all  quarters,  and  his  skill  even  demanded  in 
cases  where  a failure  might  destroy  the  hopes  of  expectant  pa- 
rents and  family  friends.  To  refuse  is  almost  an  impossibility; 
and  where  the  whole  family  join  in  the  request,  backed  by  a 
handsomely-saddled  horse  awaiting  your  movements  at  the  door, 
you  risk  the  forfeiture  of  every  body’s  good-will  by  withholding 
what  little  medical  skill  you  may  possess.  On  this  occasion, 
therefore,  I hastened  to  the  house  of  the  old  Don,  where  the 
mother  was  anxiously  awaiting  my  arrival.  The  silent  sus- 


154 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


pense  with  which  the  senora  watched  my  face  as  I felt  the  pulse 
of  the  delirious  little  sufferer  went  quite  to  my  heart.  Prescribe 
I must,  despite  my  assertions  that  I was  no  physician.  They 
only  regarded  this  as  a proof  of  my  modesty  and  real  ability. 
So,  applying  to  a small  box  of  medicines  prepared  for  me  in 
California,  I administered  my  remedies,  inwardly  praying  they 
might  be  of  use,  and  knowing  they  were  at  least  harmless.  My 
directions  were  followed  to  the  letter,  and  on  the  following  day, 
to  my  gratification  and  surprise,  the  fever  had  vanished,  and  be- 
fore my  departure  the  patient  nearly  recovered.  My  reputation 
henceforth  preceded  me  in  all  my  travels.  I was  un  medico 
muy  grande  in  disguise,  and  the  oftener  I denied  it  the  more 
convinced  were  they  of  the  fact.  Not  long  afterward,  the  Se- 
nora Caret  was  taken  ill  while  I was  absent  in  another  part  of 
the  town.  “ Doctor  Don  Guillermo”  was  sent  for  with  all  dis- 
patch. A general  commotion  in  the  household  announced  my 
return,  and  I was  ushered  into  the  presence  of  the  inferma  with 
due  formality.  I do  not  choose  to  state  what  my  remedies 
were,  but  the  precipitancy  with  which  Doha  Merced  swallowed 
them  manifested  a confidence  in  the  prescriber  which  older 
practitioners  might  have  sighed  for  in  vain.  The  patient  recov- 
ered, and  I,  unlike  Dr.  Sangrado,  have  not  to  answer  hereafter 
for  my  malpractice. 

Nacaome  is  the  scene  of  one  or  two  sharp  revolutionary  con- 
flicts, and  here  Cabanas  lost  some  of  his  bravest  officers.  The 
climate  of  the  place  and  its  vicinity  is  abhorred  by  foreigners. 
Even  the  natives  do  not  long  survive  the  hot,  damp  atmosphere. 
The  summer  heat  of  the  place  has  become  proverbial. 

On  the  seventh  day  after  my  arrival,  when  I had  resolved  to 

start  alone,  my  friend  T arrived  from  San  Miguel  by  land, 

when  we  made  instant  preparations  for  departure.  The  senora 
prepared  her  best  breakfast,  and  mules  were  brought  from  a 
neighboring  hacienda.  General  Escobar  and  suite  called  upon 
us  with  another  bundle  of  introductory  letters,  which  he  said 
would  place  the  best  houses  in  Tegucigalpa  at  my  disposal. 
At  night  I was  awakened  by  a villainous  twanging  of  catgut 
and  a melancholy  wailing  of  voices  outside  the  door.  It  was  a 
serenade  to  “Dr.  Don  Guillermo.”  The  music  consisted  of  an 
oft-repeated  strain  from  four  voices,  the  performers  increasing 


DEPARTURE  FROM  NACAOME. 


155 


in  rapidity  and  noise  toward  the  last  line  of  each  verse,  when 
the  whole  party  uttered  a loud  yell ; then  succeeded  a guitar 
interlude,  and  the  next  verse  was  rendered.  Several  dogs,  and 
a mad  bull  chained  to  a stake  in  an  adjoining  yard,  added  their 
voices  to  the  din.  A maniac  living  opposite  opened  his  door, 
and  assisted  with  imitations  of  a man  being  strangled.  At  last 
a pattering  of  rain-drops  drove  the  serenaders  to  their  homes, 
and  soon  the  little  town  subsided  into  its  wonted  silence.  I 
learned  on  the  following  morning  that  the  musical  party  had 
been  engaged  at  a christening,  and,  not  a little  proud  of  their 
abilities,  had  determined  to  give  a proof  of  them  to  the  stranger. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Crossing  the  Moromulea  and  Nacaome. — Sierra  Traveling  in  Central  America. 
— Advice  to  Travelers. — Mules. — Saddles. — Hiring  Servants. — Pleasures  of 
the  Journey. — Bathing  Places. — “Cubiertos.” — How  to  please  Don  Fulano. 
— The  Plain  of  Nacaome. — A Cascade. — A Look  back. — Pespire. — An  oblig- 
ing Alcalde. — A Bevy  of  Beauties. — Oracion. — “No  hay  para  vender!” — Swim- 
ming Match  with  the  Belles  of  Pespire. — “ Adios!” — Natural  Productions. — 
Some  of  the  wild  Birds. 

Although  every  thing  had  apparently  been  arranged  for  our 
departure,  it  was  past  nine  o’clock  on  the  following  morning 
when,  bidding  adieu  to  our  Nacaome  friends,  and  preceded  by 
our  two  servants,  an  ariero,  and  the  pack-mules,  we  left  the 
town,  and  turned  toward  the  lofty  tumble  of  mountains  rising  in 
gray  and  solemn  grandeur  before  us.  Our  course  was  nearly 
north,  toward  the  ferry  across  the  Moromulea  and  Nacaome  riv- 
ers, which,  joining  within  a mile  of  the  town,  form  a considera- 
ble stream,  discharging  into  the  Bay  of  Fonseca  near  La  Brea. 
The  rains  of  the  previous  night  had  swollen  the  waters  into 
rapid  whirlpools,  forming  at  the  junction  a boiling  mass  of  foam, 
whose  yeasty  billows  rendered  a passage  in  the  crazy  old  bongo 
a matter  of  doubt,  if  not  of  danger.  Even  the  government  cou- 
rier, who  is  supposed  to  stop  at  no  impediment,  refused  to  cross 
toward  us,  and  the  Charon  of  the  place  advised  us  to  await  the 

subsidence  of  the  waters.  I left  the  case  for  T to  decide, 

who  at  once  voted  for  crossing.  The  river  is  here  about  two 
hundred  yards  in  width.  A number  of  boys  were  swimming  near 


156 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  shore,  who  plunged  fearlessly  about,  diving  and  reappearing 
in  funny  contrast  with  the  white-capped  seas,  their  shiny  forms 
glistening  like  porpoises  in  the  sunlight.  The  bongo  was  a 
mere  dug-out,  but  we  crowded  into  it,  baggage  and  all,  and  leav- 
ing the  mules  to  the  care  of  our  servants,  pulled  out  into  the 
stream.  We  poled  along  the  opposite  side  for  several  hundred 
yards  before  entering  the  foaming  current  of  the  Nacaome.  Aft- 
er half  an  hour’s  tugging  at  the  roots  and  overhanging  branches, 
we  reached  a point  about  two  hundred  yards  above  the  landing. 
The  rowers  now  seated  themselves  and  adjusted  the  paddles  for 
a heavy  tug,  when,  all  being  ready,  the  foremost  one  gave  as  the 
signal,  ’•'•Hoo-pah  /”  The  boat  glided  out  into  the  hissing  tor- 
rent, and  darted  down  with  the  tide  like  an  arrow.  The  water 
entered  from  both  sides  ; the  men  sprang  to  their  work  like  de- 
mons, but,  despite  their  efforts,  the  frail  craft  was  twirled  in  the 
current  as  in  a whirlpool.  We  drifted  helplessly  toward  a se- 
ries of  rapids  below,  amid  which  destruction  seemed  inevitable ; 
and,  in  fact,  we  were  quite  within  their  influence,  when  a lucky 
eddy  sent  us,  as  if  shot  from  a gun,  into  a pile  of  drift-wood, 
whence  we  gradually  reached  the  shore,  completely  wet,  and 
with  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  every  article  in  the  boat  swim- 
ming in  water.  The  mules  crossed  at  a point  below,  their  heads 
just  visible  above  the  water,  and  snorting  like  hogs  with  the 
unusual  exertion.  To  be  wet  through,  either  in  showers  or  in 
bongo  navigation,  had  now  become  a matter  of  course  conse- 
quent upon  traveling  in  the  rainy  season ; so,  without  attempt- 
ing to  change  our  clothes,  we  saddled  and  started  for  Pespire,  a 
distance  of  five  leagues,  inwardly  congratulating  ourselves  on 

the  escape  from  drowning,  which,  according  to  T , had  been 

a narrow  one.  My  companion  took  these  little  incidents  with 
stoical  indifference,  believing  that,  as  he  had  passed  unscathed 
the  thousand  and  one  revolutions  of  the  country,  he  had  an  equal 
chance  of  safety  in  his  sierra  journeying. 

Mountain  travel,  as  done  in  the  interior  of  the  Central  Amer- 
ican states,  is  in  many  respects  like  that  of  the  Andes.  The 
camino  real,  or  public  highway,  is  a mere  mule-path  over  the 
mountains.  The  only  road  (made  or  improved)  in  the  country 
is  that  of  the  Transit  Company  in  Nicaragua,  connecting  San 
Juan  and  Virgin  Bay.  The  great  plain  of  Leon  has  natural 


HOW  TO  TRAVEL  IN  THE  SIERRAS. 


157 


roads,  which  are  level  and  good  in  summer,  though  dusty. 
These  could  he  improved  with  little  expense,  but  there  lacks 
the  public  spirit  to  undertake  any  such  enterprise.  From  the 
camino  real  in  Honduras  there  are  occasionally  lateral  paths 
among  the  trees  leading  to  various  small  towns,  varying  in  pop- 
ulation from  five  to  eight  hundred.  These  are  scattered  along 
the  country  at  distances  of  about  ten  leagues,  and  it  is  rarely 
the  traveler  can  not  “ make”  a town  at  the  end  of  his  day’s  jour- 
ney. 

Provisions,  such  as  dried  beef,  cheese,  chichi , aguardiente,  tiste, 
sometimes  venison,  chickens,  eggs,  milk,  tortillas , salchichas,  and 
rice  and  beans,  may  be  purchased  at  these  villages,  and  at  the 
small  haciendas  during  the  seasons  of  plenty ; but  for  the  last 
four  years,  what  with  the  locusts  and  the  wars,  there  is  scarce- 
ly enough  to  support  the  inhabitants,  and  the  wayfarer  must 
often  turn  supperless  into  his  hammock,  with  scarcely  a better 
prospect  for  the  morrow. 

But  the  mountain  traveling  is  jolly  work,  after  all,  if  you  have 
a pleasant  companion,  a reasonably  honest  servant,  and  the  con- 
stitution to  enjoy  the  rare  and  strange  scenery  ever  opening  to 
the  view.  You  spring  from  your  hammock  at  daylight,  while 
the  air  is  yet  vocal  with  the  song  of  birds  ; for,  to  make  a good 
day’s  journey,  you  must  start  before  sunrise,  and  retire  during 
the  noonday  heat  into  the  shade  of  the  nearest  woods,  where 
some  clear  water-course  affords  your  servant  the  means  of  pre- 
paring your  tiste  or  cafe  while,  swinging  in  your  hammock  be- 
tween two  flower-capped  trees,  you  enjoy  the  delicious  coolness  ; 
or,  if  you  appreciate  the  luxury  of  a bath  after  your  dusty  strug- 
gle, you  ensconce  yourself  under  the  silvery  spray  of  some  tiny 
waterfall,  whence  you  emerge  refreshed  and  ready  for  the  road. 

You  must  expect  every  inconvenience  and  painful  privation ; 
and  since  these  regions,  as  they  become  known  to  the  world,  are 
doubtless  destined  to  be  crossed  by  many  Americans,  it  is  per- 
haps well  to  go  prepared  for  any  and  every  emergency.  Out 
of  the  viands  above  enumerated,  the  traveler,  if  used  to  Central 
American  Jife,  may  make  a tolerably  good  meal ; but  if  he  is 
“ up”  to  the  country,  he  will  not  neglect  to  provide  himself  with 
spoon,  knife,  and  fork,  salt  and  pepper,  packed  in  some  conven- 
ient traveling-case  made  for  the  purpose ; several  pounds  of  burnt 


158 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


and  ground  coffee ; an  equal  quantity  of  sugar,  if  lie  has  not 
learned  to  do  without  it ; a few  pickles,  and  a small  iron  affair 
which  must  answer  the  purposes  of  kettle,  stew-pan,  coffee-pot, 
and  punch-bowl.  Let  him  not  forget  the  eslabon,  apagador,  and 
piedra  chispa,  the  universally-used  flint  and  tinder-box  of  the 
country ; and  with  a good  supply  of  native  tobacco,  which  is 
really  excellent,  the  stranger  may  laugh  at  famine,  and  pass 
comfortably  and  tranquilly  through  any  part  of  Honduras,  al- 
ways receiving  a “ buenos  dias  !”  from  the  natives,  and  a gay 
smile  from  the  chocolate-colored  muchachas  in  reply  to  some 
rustic  gallantry  in  the  shape  of  compliment  or  passing  joke. 

The  Spanish-American  resorts  to  finesse  and  flattery  to  ac- 
complish his  ends,  especially  toward  strangers.  You  must 
therefore  take  Don  Fulano  on  the  weak  side,  and  fight  him  with 
his  own  weapons.  His  love  of  country  is  not  less  a fixed  fact 
than  that  attributed  to  the  American.  To  him  the  bald  mount- 
ain peaks  and  blue  skies,  the  profuse  verdure  of  the  lowlands, 
or  the  stunted  vegetation  of  the  sierras,  are  as  dear  as  the  cher- 
ished institutions  of  our  own  land  are  to  us.  Though  soft  sol- 
der and  flattery  are  his  most  usual  means  of  success,  he  is  not 
invulnerable  himself  to  the  same  weapons.  You  must  therefore 
praise  his  country,  wonder  at  the  scenery,  compliment  the  seno- 
ritas,  and  join  in  their  jokes.  He  who  can  travel  a year  in 
Honduras  without  being  constantly  amused  must  be  incapable 
of  appreciating  the  ludicrous  in  a thousand  incidents  and  scenes. 
In  a word,  a man,  with  a good  constitution  to  bear  up  against 
privations  and  occasional  mishaps,  a clear  conscience,  and  the 
zest  to  enjoy  life  in  an  entirely  new  and  picturesque  garb,  may 
laugh  his  way  across  the  continent,  and  ever  afterward  refer  to 
his  trip  with  pleasing  recollections. 

In  a journey  over  the  Cordilleras , all  the  articles  are  carried 
by  the  servant,  who  takes  charge  of  the  pack-mules,  and  gener- 
ally precedes  you  half  a mile  on  the  road.  Should  the  traveler 
have  baggage,  an  extra  mule  must  be  hired,  always  remember- 
ing that  it  is  easier  to  pack  two  trunks  than  one,  as  the  art  of 
packing  a mule  consists  in  placing  the  load  so  as  to  preserve 
its  equilibrium  on  the  animal’s  back.  No  hotels  or  inns  open 
their  friendly  doors  along  the  route,  and  in  the  villages  a stran- 
ger is  regarded  with  a suspicious  awe,  which  in  war-time  leaves 


CENTRAL  AMERICAN  MULES  AND  HORSES. 


159 


you  to  suppose  yourself  taken  for  some  spy  of  the  enemy,  or 
“ el  ministro,”  the  title  now  conceded  to  almost  every  well- 
dressed  traveler  with  a foreign  dash  in  his  accent. 

A servant  is  indispensable,  and  can  he  readily  obtained  at 
any  of  the  coast  towns  for  $5  (duros)  per  month.  In  the  inte- 
rior they  have  yet  to  become  acquainted  with  the  wants  of  for- 
eigners. A good  traveling  servant  is  up  by  four  o’clock  in  the 
morning  (if  on  the  road),  and  awakes  his  patron  at  a given  hour, 
presenting  him  at  the  same  time  with  a cup  of  hot  coffee  or 
cacao.  This  you  sip  at  your  leisure  by  candle-light,  swinging 
in  your  hammock,  and  varying  the  entertainments  with  short 
whiffs  at  the  “digestive  pipe.”  Meanwhile  Pedro  or  Manuel 
packs  and  saddles  the  animals.  When  all  is  prepared,  you 
buckle  on  your  spurs,  and,  having  seen  the  mozos  start,  you 
mount  and  amble  along  without  troubling  yourself  regarding  the 
baggage.  Any  scientific  instruments  which  you  may  have  must 
be  ever  under  your  own  eye,  as  Manuel  is  as  likely  as  not  to  use 
your  barometer  to  beat  his  mule,  or  your  sextant-case  for  a fri- 
jole  dish. 

Mules  are  to  Honduras  what  the  camel  is  to  Arabia.  With- 
out this  patient  and  hardy  creature  there  would  be  no  means  of 
transporting  goods  across  the  sierras.  The  mula , or  she-mule, 
is  considered  much  more  valuable  than  the  macho.  She  is  taught 
an  easy  ambling,  rack,  not  known  out  of  Spanish  America,  and 
more  resembling  a very  rapid  walk  than  any  other  gait  I can 
think  of.  The  animal  thus  broken  is  called  an  andadora , and 
gets  over  an  astonishing  amount  of  country  in  a day.  They  are 
seldom  used  for  cargo,  are  well  kept,  and  valued  from  $60  to 
$250.  The  common  price  of  good  mules  is  about  $30  in  silver. 
It  is  generally  preferable  for  the  traveler  to  purchase  at  once  on 
entering  the  country,  even  if  he  pays  a larger  price,  as  he  is  oft- 
en detained  seeking  for  animals  para  alquiiar,  which  is  always 
attended  with  annoying  circumstances.  Don  F ulano,  with  whom 
you  have  bargained,  starts  off  to  see  Don  Somebody  else  about 
it,  and  it  is  a chance  if  he  does  not  stop  on  the  way  and  forget 
his  errand,  leaving  you  to  fret  or  philosophize,  as  may  best  please 
you.  The  first  lesson  for  the  foreigner  to  learn  in  Central  Amer- 
ica is  to  “take  no  note  of  time,”  which  is  a commodity  without 
value  to  the  Spaniard.  The  idea  of  hurrying  is  regarded  as  an 


160 


EXPLOE  ATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


evidence  of  a weak  head  and  frivolous  character.  “ Pronto"  is 

often  heard,  but  seldom  put  in  practice.  Owning  your  own 
mules,  you  may  start  at  any  hour,  and  there  is  little  danger  of 
losing  them  by  theft.  Besides,  the  expenses  of  hiring  from 
town  to  town  at  last  exceed  their  original  cost,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  chance  of  getting  hard-trotting  brutes  thrust  upon  you  as 
an  ignorant  stranger. 

The  saddle  of  the  country  is  at  best  a poor  apology,  and  let 
no  one  deceive  himself  by  going  to  Central  America  with  the  ex- 
pectation of  procuring  one.  The  only  saddles  that  a stranger 
can  use  are  those  imported  from  Mexico,  all  the  rest  being  rough, 
ill-shaped  affairs  known  as  albardos.  The  Mexican  or  curb  bit 
should  also  be  carried  to  the  country,  the  snaffle  being  inappli- 
cable to  the  mule.  Two  pairs  of  covered  leathern  saddle-bags 
are  also  indispensable,  as  the  alforjas,  or  open-work  sacks  of 
pita  are  not  water-proof.  Pistols  I found  of  little  use  after 
landing  in  Honduras.  Except  in  times  of  revolution  or  public 
disturbance,  the  country  is  as  safe  to  travel  through  as  the  inte- 
rior of  Hew  York.  It  is  better,  however,  to  have  arms  carried  in 
leathern  holsters.  But  the  weight  of  a heavy  Colt’s  revolver  is 
enough  to  destroy  the  pleasure  of  traveling  in  any  country.  My 
rifle,  which  I never  allowed  beyond  my  sight,  proved  a useless 
incumbrance,  except  to  take  an  occasional  crack  at  a staring 
iguana,  or  to  bring  some  bounding  deer  to  an  abrupt  halt.  In 
the  rainy  season  a white  India-rubber  coat  will  be  found  service- 
able, and  few  travel  without  an  umbrella,  but  rather  as  a pro- 
tection against  the  sun  than  the  rain.  The  horses  are  small, 
but  very  strong,  and  are  descendants  of  the  old  Spanish  stock. 
They  are  seldom  used  for  long  distances,  the  mule  being  prefer- 
red for  its  powers  of  endurance.  I have  devoted,  perhaps,  an 
undue  space  to  the  description  of  sierra  traveling,  but  excuse  it 
to  myself  under  the  idea  that  some  future  wayfarer  may  find  it 
advantageous. 

After  leaving  the  ferry  of  the  Nacaome,  we  followed  a well- 
beaten  track  leading  over  the  undulating  foot-hills  of  the  mount- 
ain regions  we  were  approaching.  The  surface  of  the  country 
gradually  changed.  After  two  leagues  we  began  to  rise  more 
rapidly,  and  found  ourselves  pursuing  a mountain  path  known 
as  the  public  road,  with  evidences  of  having  once  been  im- 


SCENERY  ON  THE  ROUTE. 


161 


proved.  We  crossed  several  small  streams  falling  into  the 
Nacaome.  Some  of  these  tumbled  in  cascades  from  the  rocks, 
or  ran  over  level,  pebbly  bottoms.  One,  at  the  foot  of  a conical 
hill,  looked  so  inviting  that  we  stopped,  and,  preparing  our 
hooks,  let  them  down  into  the  deepest  and  stillest  pools,  where 
trout  ought  to  frequent ; but  our  most  tempting  inducements 
were  without  avail. 

The  arieros  having  gone  on  before,  we  remounted,  and  over- 
took them  and  the  pack-mules  at  the  top  of  a ridge  in  a dense 
thicket,  the  silence  only  disturbed  by  a distant  roar  like  that  of 
a New  England  forest.  Indeed,  the  scenery  in  many  places  re- 
minded me  of  that  of  some  of  the  Eastern  and  Middle  States. 
The  roaring  we  imagined  to  come  from  the  trees  in  the  wind, 
until  a sudden  turn  in  the  path  gave  us  a glimpse  of  a branch 
of  the  Nacaome  dashing  bravely  over  a precipice,  and  scattering 
abroad  its  waters  in  the  form  of  a fountain.  We  looked  down 
some  hundreds  of  feet,  the  voice  of  the  cataract  echoing  among 
the  surrounding  hills.  This,  as  well  as  the  other  streams  we 
had  passed,  was  enlarged  by  the  recent  rains.  The  course  of 
nearly  all  of  them  was  southwest,  and  falling  into  the  Naca- 
ome. 

The  ground  in  every  direction  showed  indications  of  miner- 
als. Valuable  opals  are  said  to  exist  in  these  ravines,  but  all 
I afterward  saw  were  procured  from  the  Department  of  Gracias, 
in  Eastern  Honduras.  From  the  rising  ground  over  which  we 
passed  we  caught  frequent  glances  of  the  leafy  plain  we  were 
leaving.  The  afternoon  sun  poured  full  upon  the  varied  shades 
of  green,  seeming  to  blink  in  the  intense  heat.  Leagues  be- 
yond, the  blue  ocean  spread  away  from  Fonseca  Bay,  and  the 
line  of  volcanoes,  stretching  from  San  Salvador  into  Nicaragua, 
stood  like  sentinels  overlooking  the  teeming  plains  beneath.  A 
thousand  rare  plants  and  trees  stood  trembling  in  the  fierce  sun- 
light. Here  we  noted,  as  we  passed,  the  allspice,  the  tamarind, 
acacia,  bamboo,  mahogany,  silk-cotton-tree,  ebony,  oak,  cactus, 
copalcM , wild  jocote,  lobelia,  wild  lime,  mastic,  sapote,  and  doz- 
ens of  others,  uncared-for  and  unclaimed,  budding,  leafing,  and 
dispensing  their  fruits,  year  after  year,  in  the  silence  of  the  trop- 
ical forest. 

Toward  evening  we  began  to  descend  a steep  hill-side  to  the 

L 


162 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


plain  of  Pespire.  At  the  foot  we  again  encountered  the  Na- 
caome,  hut  the  ford  was  covered,  and  the  river  raged  among  the 
impeding  rocks  with  an  increased  force  from  the  rains  of  yes- 
ternight. Some  people  on  the  opposite  shore  shouted  and  mo- 
tioned to  us,  hut  the  voices  were  lost  in  the  roar  of  the  waters. 
We  now  understood  them  to  be  impassable ; but,  having  already 
formed  an  estimate  of  Central  American  impossibilities,  we  en- 
tered at  where  the  ford  seemed  to  be,  and  passed  over  without 
difficulty,  though  the  boiling  and  hissing  of  the  torrent  made  us 
half  repent  our  rashness  before  we  reached  the  shallow  water  of 
the  Pespire  shore. 

A few  naked  urchins  scampered  m advance  of  our  train  to 
show  the  way,  and  in  a few  minutes  ushered  us  into  the  little 
town  with  shouts  of 

“ Mira  ! mira  ! aqui  viene  el  Americano  /” 

As  we  entered  the  Plaza  we  met  the  alcalde,  known  by  the 
cane  of  office.  He  returned  our  salutations  with  a low  bow,  and 
bid  us  welcome. 

“Although,”  said  he,  I am  obliged  by  law  to  inquire  into 
the  business  of  all  strangers  during  the  present  disturbances 
with  Guatemala,  your  countenances  are  your  best  passports. 
Go  with  God!” 

With  this  flattering  introduction  to  Pespire,  we  exchanged 
“ adios ” with  the  friendly  alcalde,  and  made  our  way  to  a small 
street,  one  side  of  which  was  formed  by  the  adobe  wall  of  the 
church  of  Santa  Ursula,  and  pulled  up  at  the  door  of  la  Senora 
Urmaneta.  No  sooner  had  we  alighted  than  we  were  surround- 
ed by  an  inquisitive  crowd,  most  of  them  quick-eyed  girls,  who 
from  time  to  time  uttered  low  and  rapid  comments  on  our  ap- 
pearance and  trappings.  One  of  them,  informed  by  the  ragged 
troop  who  had  preceded  us,  remarked, 

“ Todos  los  Americanos  siempre  traen  rifles  por  el  ca- 
mino.  ” 

As  she  said  this  with  rather  a disdainful  glance  at  the  care  I 
bestowed  on  my  weapon  (the  last  gift  of  “Natchez”  in  San 
Francisco),  I replied  in  Spanish,  with  some  compliment  to  the 
rural  critic,  when,  with  a loud  scream,  the  group  took  to  their 
heels,  laughing,  and  repeating, 

“ Habla  Espanol  ! habla  Espanol  /”  little  counting,  when 


PESPIRE.  163 

they  commenced  their  comments,  on  our  being  able  to  compre- 
hend them. 

The  beasts  resigned  to  the  care  of  the  servants,  we  entered 
the  house  just  as  the  solemn  church  bell  announced  the  hour  of 
oration.  For  a moment  all  was  silent  in  the  town.  This 
beautiful  custom  is  not  observed  in  Honduras  with  the  rever- 
ence shown  to  it  in  Nicaragua,  where  many  kneel,  and  nearly  all 
lift  their  hats.  Here  only  a moment’s  respectful  silence  showed 
the  general  recognition  of  the  custom. 

As  we  had  been  forewarned,  nothing  can  be  bought  on  the 
road  for  copper.  uJVo  hay,  senorP  was  the  response  to  all  de- 
mands for  food.  The  landlady  made  the  same  reply  until 
T exhibited  some  silver  reals,  when  the  old  dame’s  mem- 

ory seemed  suddenly  refreshed,  and  we  shortly  sat  down  to  a 
supper  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  chickens,  and  frijoles,  to  which  we 
added,  from  our  own  stock  of  provisions,  coffee,  ship-bread,  and 
a final  bonne  bouche  of  a glassful  of  French  brandy.  Pespire  is 
the  connecting  link  in  the  traffic  between  the  mountain  city  of 
Tegucigalpa  and  the  ports  of  Amapala  and  La  Union.  Here  are 
the  head-quarters  of  mules,  and  a lively  trade  is  maintained  be- 
tween Comayagua  to  the  northwest,  Tegucigalpa  to  the  north- 
easi,  and  Choluteca  to  the  eastward — three  centres  of  trade  for 
their  respective  sections  of  Honduras.  It  has  about  two  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  The  streets,  which  are  neatly  paved  with  the 
smooth  stones  of  the  river,  are  regularly  laid  out.  A neat  church, 
cabilda,  and  rector’s  residence,  all  of  adobe,  are  the  only  build- 
ings to  be  distinguished  from  the  mass  of  red-tiled  roofs,  from 
among  which  tall  palms  and  a variety  of  fruit-trees  rear  them- 
selves with  a pleasing  and  picturesque  effect.  At  sunset  we 
strolled  into  the  Plaza  to  buy  some  bundles  of  sacate  for  the 
mules,  and  then  entering  our  respective  hide  beds,  to  the  hard- 
ness of  which  our  aching  bones  attested  in  the  morning,  we  dis- 
puted possession  with  the  fleas  until  daylight. 

With  the  dawn  we  walked  forth,  and,  after  dispatching  the 
boys  to  the  potrero  for  the  mules,  stripped  and  plunged  into  the 
river,  to  allay  the  feverish  heat  caused  by  the  irritations  of  the 
night.  All  the  water  used  in  Pespire  is  taken  in  earthen  jars 
on  the  heads  of  female  water-bearers.  We  had  scarcely  left  the 
river  when  troops  of  these  aguadoras,  straight  and  well  formed, 


164  EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 

walked  down  to  the  hank,  and,  after  filling  their  jars,  imitated 
our  example,  and  followed  the  immemorial  custom  in  the  tropics 
of  a morning  hath.  Some  of  them  swam  fearlessly  into  the 
middle  of  the  torrent,  and  splashed  about  in  the  foam  like  Naiads. 
As  they  evinced  an  utter  unconcern  at  our  proximity,  we  took  to 
ourselves  the  credit  of  not  being  the  aggressors,  and  were,  con- 
sequently, in  no  fear  of  the  fate  of  peeping  Tom  of  Coventry. 
They  made  the  woods  echo  with  their  wild  laughter,  and  even 
amused  themselves  at  our  expense  as  we  walked  away.  I 

told  T that  this  was  an  instance  of  natural  simplicity  of 

manner  such  as  I had  rarely  witnessed.  “ Oh  no,”  said  he, 
with  a laugh ; “ this  is  common ; you  must  get  used  to  our 
Honduras  ways.”  I then  recalled  my  bathing  experience  in 
Nicaragua,  and  voted  the  Central  Americans  the  most  unsophis- 
ticated race  in  existence. 

At  seven  o’clock  we  left  town,  having  partaken  of  cafe  con 
leche , and  took  the  road,  after  bidding  adieu  to  the  obsequious 
alcalde,  and  replying  with  unction  to  the  “ adios , Americano ” 
of  the  juvenile  population.  From  the  little  adobe  outskirts  of 
Pespire  we  entered  a valley  leading  upward  toward  the  sierras. 
The  path  was  intersected  with  gullies  and  streams  swollen  by 
the  late  rains.  From  the  occasional  ridges  of  metallic  rock,  we 
gazed  inland  toward  ominous-looking  peaks  and  forested  hills, 
over  which,  from  their  easterly  bearing,  it  was  evident  we  must 
pass  ; but  our  mules  were  fresh  and  strong,  and  we  stretched 
onward  with  full  confidence.  My  servant  here  pointed  out  the 
almastiga , or  mastic-tree,  growing  in  small  clusters  along  the 
slopes  of  the  hills.  This  drug,  found  in  several  localities  in 
Central  America,  is  obtained  by  making  incisions  in  the  trees  ; 
but  as  yet,  few  attempts  have  been  made  to  procure  it  except  in 
Guatemala.  No  exportations,  either  from  Honduras  or  Nicara- 
gua, have  ever  been  made.  The  cactus,  in  numerous  and  beau- 
tiful varieties,  showed  itself  along  the  route,  sometimes  perched 
jauntily  on  the  peak  of  a bold  rock,  and  at  others  snugly  en- 
sconced in  the  niches  of  the  granite  walls  that  bordered  our 
path.  Some  were  scarlet,  but  the  greater  number  were  of  a 
rich  yellow,  and  resembled  marigolds  when  viewed  from  a dis- 
tance. 

A variety  of  beautiful  birds  flitted  past,  but  few  of  them  were 


WILD  BIRDS. 


165 


songsters.  The  names  ot  some  of  these  have  probably  never 
been  published.  Many  familiar  to  Americans  are  found  in  the 
woods  of  the  foot-hills  of  the  sierras,  and  differ  little  from  the 
same  species  at  the  north.  Here  may  be  seen  the  sparrow- 
hawk  ; the  muchuelo,  or  horn-owl ; the  white,  blue,  purple,  and 
gray  heron ; the  crow  and  blackbird ; the  ruisenor,  or  nightin- 
gale ; the  verderon,  or  greenbird ; and  the  pichon , or  blue  dove, 
somewhat  resembling  our  domestic  pigeon,  the  male  sporting  a 
pretty  indigo  back  and  purple  breast.  He  is  generally  seen 
alone  on  some  gnarled  limb,  and  answering  with  his  ventrilo- 
quous  note  his  distant  companion.  The  pica  madera , or  Cen- 
tral American  woodpecker,  may  sometimes  be  heard  in  the  dark 
everglades  hammering  busily  at  his  store -house,  the  decayed 
tree.  There  is  also  the  redbird,  with  his  beautiful  topknot ; 
the  swallow-tail  (el  tijiros ) ; the  cola  larga,  or  long-tail,  and 
twice  as  many  more,  counting  from  the  gorgeous  jurraca  to  the 
gilded  humming-bird,  of  which  the  forests  are  full,  and  of  more 
hues  and  descriptions  than  would  find  a reasonably  industrious 
ornithologist  employment  for  a year. 


CHAPTEB  IX. 

Note-taking. — Sugar-loaf  Mountain. — Cinnabar. — Foliage. — Mountain  Scenery. 
— Mansanita. — A dizzy  Precipice. — La  Yenta. — The  Alcalde. — “El  Ministro 
Americano!”  — Famine  among  the  Villagers.  — Padre  Ramierez’s  Ideas  of 
Protestantism. — How  to  get  a Dinner. — Plantains. — View  from  the  Cordille- 
ras.— Savanna  Grande. — Padre  Domingo. — Hacienda  de  Trinidad. — Wedding 
in  the  Mountains. — An  Adventure. — Meeting  a Bridal  Party. — Lost  in  the 
Sierra. — A midnight  Storm. — Nueva  Arcadia. — Pine  Forests. — Cerro  de  Ule. 
— Another  Adventure. — Fording  el  Rio  Grande. — Ahorcadores. — Approach  to 
Tegucigalpa. — The  City. — First  Impressions. 

On  entering  for  the  first  time  the  shadows  of  a Central  Amer- 
ican forest,  the  stranger  is  possessed  with  a mania  to  take  notes 
of  every  thing  he  sees,  hears,  feels,  and  smells  ; but,  finding  a 
mass  of  evidence  accumulating  he  had  little  counted  on  at  the 
outset,  he  gradually  relaxes  his  vigilance,  inclining  to  depend  on 
memory  in  his  future  travels.  From  such  a collection  it  after- 
ward becomes  difficult  to  select  in  “lots  to  suit”  readers,  and 
the  fact  left  out  as  frivolous  to  one  might  prove  of  the  utmost 


166 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


importance  to  another.  Thus  an  ornithologist  would  wonder 
at  the  stupidity  which,  among  such  a profusion  of  bright-winged 
birds,  could  have  failed  to  note  the  habits  and  plumage  of  each, 
and  a similar  remark  might  be  made  by  the  professor  of  every 
branch  of  science.  But  the  time  spent  in  such  researches  would 
defeat  the  objects  of  any  but  a scientific,  and,  consequently,  slow- 
er-paced expedition.  A rush  through  the  country  on  mule-back 
affords  but  limited  opportunities  for  minute  investigation,  or  to 
record  notes  amid  the  vexations  of  a painful  trip,  in  which,  in- 
stead of  a corps  of  savans,  one  unassisted  and  incompetent  way- 
farer must  make  and  commit  to  the  pass-book  every  thing  of  in- 
terest. Nobody  in  Central  America  can  understand  the  object 
of  your  questions,  and  the  general  reply  to  all  is  the  universal 
“jpor  supuesto ,”  “of  course.”  It  sometimes  takes  an  hour’s 
adroit  questioning,  and  a world  of  patience,  to  ascertain  one  sim- 
ple fact — such,  for  instance,  as  to  the  season  of  planting  the 
ijuca,  or  the  depth  of  a river  at  a stated  season.  Woe  to  the 
interrogator  should  he  lose  his  patience,  or  show  the  least  petu- 
lance at  the  slow-moulded  responses  to  his  queries.  He  is  then 
regarded  as  a weak-minded  fidget , and  decidedly  an  undignified 
personage. 

We  left  the  little  valley  and  mounted  the  foot-hills,  sparkling 
here  and  there  with  sulphurets,  and  evidences  protruding  in  va- 
rious places  of  iron  and  copper  ores.  Spaces  of  country  occa- 
sionally opened  which  seemed  fertile,  from  the  snugly-thatched 
huts,  half-embowered  in  waving  corn,  and  the  jplatinal  rustling 
its  leafy  wealth  in  the  breeze.  I had  long  since  abandoned  my 
plan  of  noting  each  small  stream  flowing  toward  the  ocean. 
Among  the  prominent  landmarks  I noted  a leaning  sugar-loaf 
mountain,  which  peered  aloft,  conspicuous  above  the  surround- 
ing peaks.  At  a distance  it  resembled  a battered  castle  turret ; 
but,  on  passing  it  toward  evening,  we  found  it  covered  with  a 
remarkable  red  stone,  which  our  guide  asserted  was  cinnabar, 
proved  to  be  such  by  a German  traveling  chemist  who  had  wan- 
dered through  here  many  years  since. 

At  noon  we  struck  otf  from  the  road,  and  the  boys,  now  work- 
ed into  practice,  were  speedily  engaged  making  colfee.  Our 
height  was  eighteen  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  No  pine  or  fir 
trees  had  yet  been  seen  on  the  route.  The  formations  were  gen- 


UP  THE  SIERRA. 


167 


extended,  showed  the  path,  carved  out  of  the  white  sandstone 
by  the  mules’  feet,  winding  like  the  sinuosities  of  a great  ser- 
pent. 

The  pass  from  this  point,  which  is  called  El  Diablo,  is  reck- 
oned one  of  the  most  dangerous  in  the  sierra.  It  forms,  how- 
ever, the  principal  route  to  the  interior.  Huge  peaks  and  jut- 


erally  of  sandstone,  disintegrated  quartz  and  granite.  The  tem- 
perature was  86°  Fahr.  From  our  stopping-place  we  gazed 
back  upon  the  mountain  ridges  through  which  our  journey  had 
led  us.  A better  mountaineer  than  myself  would  have  been 
puzzled  to  point  out  the  route  leading  from  the  flowery  plains 
of  Choluteca  into  the  more  temperate  climate  we  were  now  en- 
joying. Above  us,  against  the  eastern  sky,  we  saw  plainly  the 
line  of  pines  which  we  would  reach  during  the  ensuing  day. 
Far  to  the  westward,  the  volcanic  peaks  of  El  Tigre,  Sacate 
Grande,  Conchagua,  and  San  Miguel  loomed  blue  and  dim 
against  the  misty  horizon,  beneath  which  I vainly  endeavored  to 
distinguish  the  ocean.  The  steep  ascent,  up  which  the  trail  still 


SIERRA  TRAVELING. 


168 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ting  cliffs  of  gray  granite  tower  against  the  sky.  The  trees  of 
smaller  growth,  widely  separated,  and  bending  away  from  the 
force  of  the  prevailing  winds,  stood  in  scattered  squadrons  along 
the  less  precipitous  slopes. 

Forming  a prominent  feature  in  the  scanty  foliage,  the  rnan- 
sanita,  with  its  red,  gnarled,  and  crooked  trunk  leaning  awk- 
wardly from  the  perpendicular,  thrust  itself  from  among  the 
rocks  and  shallow,  clayey  soil,  which  seemed  scarcely  capable 
of  sustaining  it.  The  tree  or  bush  is  hardly  above  ten  feet  in 
height.  Its  branches  and  twigs  are  coated  with  a delicate  layer 
of  white,  pollen-like  substance,  which  easily  brushes  off.  The 
leaves  are  alternate,  oval,  veined,  of  a light  green  on  the  upper 
surface,  but  a shade  paler  beneath.  It  bears  a very  small  white 
and  pink  flower. 

Close  to  our  encampment  was  a precipice,  down  which  we 
gazed  a sheer  descent  of  several  hundred  feet,  the  bald  rock 
scarcely  offering  a notch  upon  which  to  rest  the  foot.  Here  I 
amused  myself  in  dislocating  the  heaviest  stones,  and  watching 
their  descent,  until  the  sound  of  their  rattling  was  lost  in  the 
murmur  of  the  woods  below.  The  lengthening  shadows  at  last 
warned  us  to  remount,  and  struggle  onward  and  upward. 

From  here  our  road  was  a gradual  ascent,  at  times  winding 
along  precipices  on  whose  brow  a narrow  shelf  protruded,  barely 
leaving  room  for  a loaded  mule  to  pass  with  safety.  Though 
this  is  denominated  the  camino  real , or  highway,  we  saw  no 
sign  of  life  through  the  day,  except  where  some  bit  of  land,  less 
broken  than  the  rest,  had  tempted  a mountaineer  to  fix  his  hab- 
itation, and  experiment  in  raising  a scanty  crop  of  com  or  beans. 
These  specks  of  green  seemed  mingling  with  the  clouds,  and 
were  generally  situated  far  above  our  route.  We  at  length  open- 
ed upon  a valley  completely  locked  in  by  abrupt  hills,  in  the 
midst  of  which  lay  the  little  town  of  La  Venta,  or  the  Inn,  sit- 
uated 2600  feet  above  the  sea. 

Several  plantain-fields  prepared  the  visitor  for  the  rude  civili- 
zation beyond.  The  place  was  a miserable  collection  of  mount- 
ain hovels,  with  about  600  inhabitants.  We  reached  the  Plaza 
half  an  hour  before  our  pack-train,  and  rode  directly  to  the  ca- 
bilda , or  court-house,  usually  considered  in  Honduras  as  public 
property,  and  standing  in  lieu  of  a house  of  entertainment.  As 


LA  YENTA. 


169 


we  dismounted,  darkness  fell  suddenly  over  the  mountains,  and 
a heavy  .rain  drove  us  precipitately  into  our  adobe  hut,  boasting 
neither  floor  nor  walls  beside  the  mud  of  which  it  was  construct- 
ed. The  muleteers  arrived  soon  after,  and  with  them  a bare- 
footed gentleman,  clad  in  a cotton  shirt  and  loose  trowsers  of  sim- 
ilar material,  whose  insignia  of  office — a cane — denoted  him  to 
be  the  alcalde.  He  demanded  to  see  our  passports,  and  awaited 
our  answer  in  silence,  while  a group  of  village  gossips  stood  at  a 

respectful  distance  to  observe  our  motions.  T told  him  I 

was  the  American  minister,  at  which  the  fellow  opened  wide  his 
eyes  and  made  me  a low  obeisance.  An  hour’s  hunt  among  the 
wretched  huts  produced  absolutely  nothing  to  eat.  To  our  ur- 
gent inquiries  for  tortillas , eggs,  or  venison,  the  response  was 
the  usual  uno  hay.”  Even  the  jingle  of  silver  failed  to  bring 
any  thing  to  light. 

“ Tell  me,”  said  I to  the  alcalde,  who  now,  wrapped  in  his 
blanket,  had  squatted  on  his  hams  near  our  fire,  “ how  do  you 
manage  to  live  here?  There  seems  to  be  nothing  to  subsist 
upon — or  perhaps  this  is  a time  of  unusual  scarcity.” 

“ Sehor,”  said  he,  “we  live  on  tortillas  and  plantains,  and 
when  these  can  not  be  procured  we  go  hungry and  the  mea- 
gre look  of  the  man  seemed  to  warrant  his  assertion.  The  rain 
was  now  descending  in  torrents. 

“ Sehor  will  not  reach  Cerro  de  Ule  to-morrow,”  said  he. 
“The  roads  are  impassable.” 

“ Oh,”  said  T , “ as  to  that,  an  Americano  del  Norte  can 

go  any  where ; and  this,  you  know,  is  a minister !” 

The  official  regarded  me  in  silence,  the  fire  strangely  illumi- 
nating his  dusky  features.  A hook-nosed  personage  now  an- 
nounced himself  as  the  Padre  Ramierez,  with  whom  I entered 
into  conversation.  His  ideas  of  religion  in  el  Norte  were  novel 
and  interesting.  “I  have  read,”  said  he,  “that  you  in  the  North 
have  dozens  of  different  styles  and  denominations  of  churches, 
and  that  each  is  in  charge  of  a separate  padre.  Do  the  people 
in  your  country  believe  in  more  than  one  God  ?”  His  question 
led  to  a funny  discussion  as  to  the  relative  merits  of  the  modern 
beliefs,  and  it  was  curious  to  observe  the  jumble  of  facts  and 
absurdities  he  had  heaped  together  in  his  seclusion ; and  yet, 
until  recently,  our  own  knowledge  of  Central  America  was  little 


170 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


clearer  than  his  of  el  Norte.  The  conversation  led  to  one  good 
result.  We  took  care  not  to  offend  the  little  dignity  of  Padre 
Ramierez,  and  the  result  was  the  discovery,  through  his  agency, 
of  some  eggs  and  beans,  to  which  we  paid  our  respects  with  the 
voracity  of  tigers.  Let  the  traveler  in  the  mountains  of  Cen- 
tral America  cultivate  the  padres,  and  it  is  seldom  such  spiritual 
acquaintance  will  not  prove  serviceable  in  satisfying  his  wants. 
A mouthful  of  excellent  Cognac,  with  which  we  rewarded  the 
holy  man’s  exertions  in  our  behalf,  fully  repaid,  him  for  his 
trouble. 

Our  hammocks  were  slung  from  the  rafters  of  the  house,  and 
into  them  we  bundled,  and  smoked  ourselves  to  sleep  by  the 
blaze  of  the  fire.  Long  before  daylight  Rafael  awoke  me,  and 
presented  the  usual  cup  of  strong  coffee ; and  finding  the  mules 
ready  packed  and  saddled,  we  mounted,  and  left  town  without 
stopping  to  bid  adieu  to  our  acquaintances  of  the  previous  night. 
We  exchanged  salutations  with  a number  of  village  beauties 
leaving  the  stream  near  the  town  with  the  day’s  water  on  their 
heads,  and  recommenced  ascending  the  sierra.  By  ten  o’clock 
we  were  in  the  pine  region.  The  belt  of  pine  crowning  the  en- 
tire mountains  of  Honduras  above  the  altitude  of  about  2500 
feet  is  regularly  defined,  and  seems  to  form  a fringe  along  this 
portion  of  the  Pacific  slope.  The  air,  until  nearly  noon,  was 
cool  and  bracing,  and  the  thermometer  at  daybreak  showed  a 
temperature  of  68°. 

As  we  ascended,  we  frequently  turned  to  gaze  back  upon  the 
scene,  increasing  in  grandeur  at  every  step  of  ascent.  Far  be- 
low us  lay  the  mass  of  mountains  we  had  passed  the  day  be- 
fore. The  coast  volcanoes  were  now  hid  in  the  intervening  low- 
land mists,  and  the  viewT  was  bounded  by  the  succession  of  val- 
leys and  decreasing  hills,  until,  in  the  distance,  they  seemed 
merged  into  a plain.  Ridges  upon  ridges,  running  mostly  to 
the  southeast,  presented  a picture  of  grand  and  silent  majesty. 
They  were  intersected  with  smaller  spurs  going  in  opposite  di- 
rections. Pursuing  our  route,  we  crossed  several  brawling  tor- 
rents, seeking  their  way  to  some  branch  of  the  larger  rivers  be- 
low, but  now  leaping  in  wild  freedom  from  rock  to  dell,  or  sput- 
tering along  in  foaming  rapids. 

At  noon  we  reached  a compactly-built  town,  with  its  adobe 


SAVANNA  GRANDE. 


171 


church  and  paved  Plaza,  known  as  Savanna  Grande,  or  the 
great  plain.  This  is  four  leagues  from  La  V enta,  and  occupies, 
like  that  place,  a valley  surrounded  by  a hedge  of  bald  hills. 
The  pine  region  extends  from  below  this  point  quite  over  the 
Cordilleras,  down  the  Atlantic  slope  much  lower  than  on  the  Pa- 
cific side.  The  good  Padre  Domingo  Borjas  was  an  old  friend 
of  the  family  of  my  companion,  and,  recognizing  his  features  as 
we  halted  before  his  little  residence,  he  waddled  out  and  wel- 
comed us  with  true  hospitality.  A young  student,  who  seemed 
to  divide  his  attention  between  his  religious  studies  and  attend- 
ing upon  the  wants  of  the  padre,  brought  in  the  remains  of  the 
morning  meal,  consisting  of  a tortilla  or  two,  which  vanished  in 
a twinkling.  While  our  beasts  were  eating  in  the  Plaza,  we  en- 
tered into  conversation  with  our  host,  who,  like  most  of  the  Cen- 
tral American  priests,  was  intelligent,  but  ignorant  of  all  matters 
not  pertaining  to  his  calling.  In  a little  niche  of  his  study  were 
a dozen  well-thumbed  Mexican  and  Guatemalan  editions  of 
Spanish  authors,  and  a few  coarse  water-colored  prints  of  saints 
hung  against  the  wall.  Here  I saw  the  first  specimens  of  sil- 
ver ore,  and  also  some  bits  of  alum,  of  which  the  padre  said  a 
mine  existed  near  by.  When  he  heard  that  my  object  was  to 
examine  the  silver  mines  of  the  country,  and  perhaps  return 
with  a great  American  company  to  work  them,  he  hastened  out 
of  the  house,  and  presently  returned  with  several  residents  of 
the  town,  some  of  them  sporting  no  article  of  clothing  but  a shirt, 
and  extremely  scanty  ones  they  were.  These  worthies  com- 
menced with  one  voice  to  describe  certain  silver  mines  they 
claimed  to  be  the  owners  of,  and  insisted  upon  my  remaining  at 
Savanna  Grande  a week  to  visit  them. 

The  town  is  the  largest  in  this  district,  and  is  the  centre  of  a 
thriving  trade  in  aguardiente,  which  is  manufactured  in  the  vi- 
cinity in  large  quantities.  The  plantain-tree  flourishes  here,  as 
in  all  sections  of  Honduras.  It  is  to  Central  America  what  the 
potato  is  to  Gurope  and  the  United  States.  It  is  an  ingredient 
in  every  dish,  and  is  served  up  boiled,  roasted,  baked,  stewed, 
fried,  and  raw.  According  to  Humboldt,  the  plantain  affords 
forty  times  more  nutriment  than  the  potato,  and  an  acre  of  them 
is  equal  to  one  hundred  and  thirty-three  acres  of  wheat!  It 
may  thus  be  imagined  that  in  a tropical  climate,  where  the  las- 


172 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


situde  consequent  upon  the  heat  will  not  permit  the  sturdy  toil 
of  the  North,  the  culture  of  a fruit  so  easily  grown  as  the  plant- 
ain should  be  universal. 

Crossing  the  sierras,  we  found  them  growing  in  every  cleared 
space  of  ground.  The  poorest  Indian  can  afford  this  luxury, 
which  he  has  only  to  pluck  from  among  the  golden  clusters 
within  reach  of  his  hand,  and  from  Guatemala  to  Costa  Rica 
the  table  of  the  wealthiest  citizen  is  never  without  them.  Like 
the  macaroni  of  the  Lazaroni  in  Naples,  it  is  at  once  a luxu- 
ry and  an  indispensable  article  of  food.  Father  Borjas  states 
that,  since  the  commencement  of  the  locust  scourge,  the  poorer 
classes  of  the  state  must  have  starved  but  for  the  plantain,  and 
cited  an  instance  of  the  recent  invasion  of  Honduras  by  the  Gua- 
temalans under  Guardiola,  when  the  inhabitants  of  Gracias 
carried  the  plantains  into  the  mountains  as  they  fled  from  the 
troops,  who  were  finally  obliged  to  quit  the  country  to  avoid 
starving.  He  concluded  his  remarks  by  denominating  Hondu- 
ras as  the  Russia  of  Central  America,  from  the  fact  that  it  can 
never  be  successfully  invaded  when  the  people  are  unanimous 
against  the  enemy. 

We  parted  from  the  good  padre  with  regret,  and  resumed  our 
journey  toward  Cerro  de  Ule,  the  highest  peak  of  the  western 
Cordillera  of  the  state.  A few  miles  beyond  the  town  we  pass- 
ed the  field  of  the  battle  fought  in  1827  between  Colonels  Dias 
and  Justo  Mille,  two  of  the  principal  revolutionary  leaders  of 
that  day.  The  place  was  well  calculated  for  a guerrilla  fight, 
and  my  companion  recounted  some  chivalric  deeds  of  the  con- 
test with  the  pride  of  the  Spaniard  mantling  his  cheek.  It  was 
here  that  Morazan,  “ the  Washington  of  Central  America,”  first 
signalized  himself  in  battle.  Descending  a steep  hill,  we  came 
to  the  hacienda  of  Trinidad.  Here  a collection  of  really  pretty 
senoritas,  and  rather  extensive  preparations  in  the  way  of  cakes, 
coyol  wine,  jugs  of  aguardiente,  new  dresses,  and  gaudily-capar- 
isoned horses,  showed  my  friend  that  a wedding  was  about  to 
be  celebrated.  “Aha!”  said  he,  with  a gay  laugh,  “now  we 
shall  see  fun,  besides  getting  something  to  eat.” 

We  dismounted  with  many  salutations,  and  exchanged  com- 
pliments after  the  fashion  of  the  country  with  these  bright-eyed 
girls,  when  an  inner  door  opened,  and  a wrinkled  beldame  met 


A WEDDING  PAETY. 


173 


us  with  a cold  “ Adios , sehores  /”  We  replied  with  all  the 
warmth  and  alacrity  of  hungry  men  on  their  good  behavior, 
but  we  soon  found  that  we  had  mistaken  our  customer.  She 
first  harshly  ordered  the  muchachas  into  the  house,  and  then 
answered  our  request  to  purchase  something  to  eat  with  the  us- 
ual “ Senor , no  hay.'’’’  Now,  as  we  could  see  through  the  chinks 
of  the  brushwood  out-house  several  persons  busily  engaged  cut- 
ting up  a newly-slaughtered  bullock,  and  knew,  moreover,  that 
another  was  being  driven  up  to  undergo  a similar  fate,  we  voted 
this  the  excess  of  meanness,  and  entered  into  a lengthy  argu- 
ment with  the  old  dame,  which,  however,  resulted  in  our  dis- 
comfiture. 

Louder  and  louder  came  the  noise  of  spatting  tortillas  from 
within,  and  with  every  change  of  the  breeze  we  were  tantalized 
with  the  savory  smell  of  their  baking  and  the  roasting  of  fat 
beef.  The  door  was  shut  in  our  faces,  and  we  were  just  mount- 
ing, with  a wrathful  malediction  on  the  house  and  its  inhospita- 
ble inmates,  when  a low  “ h — s — t !”  from  the  farther  corner  of 
the  dwelling  attracted  my  attention.  Two  bright,  intelligent 
eyes  invited,  and  again  alighting,  I reached  the  spot  just  in  time 
to  receive  an  immense  chunk  of  beef,  warm  from  the  slaughter- 
yard,  from  the  fair  hands  of  the  bride  herself!  Nor  was  this  all. 
Tripping  softly  back,  she  returned  in  an  instant  with  a coarse 
cloth  filled  with  savory  frijoles  and  corn-cakes  fried  in  mante- 
qxdlla.  Before  I could  return  my  thanks,  she  disappeared  with 
a low  laugh  and  a whispered  “ Vaya  ! vaya  !”  I shook  the 

plunder  in  silent  triumph  at  T , whose  sombre  features 

lighted  up  with  pleasure  as  he  gazed. 

We  renewed  our  journey,  and  in  a few  minutes  encountered 
a troop  of  mounted  friends  on  their  way  to  the  scene  of  the  nup- 
tials. Here,  at  least,  was  no  old  woman  to  be  jealous  of 
strangers.  We  all  dismounted,  and  my  companion  introduced 
me  to  half  a dozen  natives  of  Tegucigalpa,  and  fine-looking  fel- 
lows they  were,  to  say  nothing  of  three  slight  but  elegant  fe- 
male forms,  whose  closely-drawn  veils  left  us  to  imagine  the 
dark,  flashing  eyes  and  vivacious  faces  of  the  Spanish  beauty. 
An  hour  was  passed  pleasantly  under  the  pines,  and  as  our  new 
acquaintances  were  well  supplied  with  Cognac  and  fruit,  we  felt 
no  disposition  to  part  company.  At  length  every  body  mounted, 


174 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


and  we  saw  our  wedding-party  galloping  through,  the  woods, 
and  sending  hack  shouts  of  merry  laughter  long  after  they  had 
passed  from  view. 

We  now  began  the  ascent  of  Cerro  de  JJle , on  the  slope  of 
which  is  situated  the  village  of  Nueva  Arcadia.  The  mount- 
ain gusts  came  heavy  and  fitfully,  denoting  an  approaching 
storm.  We  toiled  painfully  upward  for  another  hour,  following 
an  uneven,  zigzag  path  worn  into  the  rocks  by  mule-travel. 
The  sun  sank  into  a sea  of  mist  and  clouds.  We  had  nearly 
attained  the  highest  traveled  point  on  this  part  of  the  Cordille- 
ras. The  path,  barely  discernible  in  the  rapidly-approaching 
darkness,  extended  along  a nearly  level  space  of  land  more 
thickly  wooded  than  any  we  had  passed  since  leaving  the  tierras 
calientes,  and  rather  resembling  a forest  than  any  pine  woods 
we  had  yet  seen.  These  appeared  the  gloomier  in  the  obscuri- 
ty of  the  night,  which  soon  overtook  us,  accompanied  by  a rain- 
storm momentarily  increasing,  until  we  found  it  impossible  to 
keep  the  road.  Often  dismounting  and  proceeding  on  foot,  we 
toiled  slowly  along,  wet  through  by  the  squalls  which  passed, 
howling  in  quick  succession  through  the  trees,  roaring  grandly 
among  the  mountains.  Vivid  lightning,  such  as  is  rarely  seen 
out  of  the  tropics,  flashed  along  the  heavens,  and  peals  of  thun- 
der added  their  voice  to  the  sublimity  of  the  scene. 

In  the  lulls  we  could  hear  the  ominous  dashing  of  some 
mountain  torrent,  swollen  into  fury,  and  foaming  down  its  rocky 
bed.  As  night  set  in  we  had  noticed  that  the  sierra  broke  off 
to  the  left  into  deep  declivities,  in  our  anxiety  to  avoid  which 
we  pushed  too  far  into  the  forest,  and,  after  an  horn’s  ineffect- 
ual struggle  among  fallen  trees  and  brambles,  came  to  the  un- 
comfortable conviction  that  we  were  lost.  As  it  was  not  yef 
ten  o’clock,  we  looked  forward  with  no  pleasant  anticipations  to 
a night  of  merciless  storm,  utter  darkness,  and  no  hope  of  shel- 
ter. To  proceed  in  this  impenetrable  gloom  was  impossible, 
and  the  natives,  used  as  they  were  to  the  sierras,  could  not  re- 
trace our  steps  with  any  degree  of  certainty. 

We  dismounted,  and  hewed  down  with  the  machetes  the  lower 
branches  around  us,  and,  collecting  such  decayed  sticks  and  logs 
as  the  darkness  would  permit,  erected  a temporary  chosa  like  the 
den  of  a Digger  Indian,  and  spread  over  it  the  blankets  of  the 


A STORM  IN  THE  SIERRA. 


175 


party.  Blinded  with  the  rain  and  lightning,  which  ever  and 
anon  illumined  the  dark  vistas  of  the  forest  like  a sudden  gleam 
of  Pandemonium,  we  crept,  wet  and  shivering,  beneath  this 
scanty  refuge,  and  huddled  together  after  vainly  attempting  to 
kindle  a fire  with  the  water-soaked  twigs  which  Yicente  brought. 
To  sleep  was  impossible,  and„  to  crown  our  misfortunes,  the 
clumsy  wretch  of  a Rafael,  in  unloading  one  of  the  mules,  had 
smashed  the  bottle  of  aguardiente,  thus  depriving  us  of  even 
that  doubtful  stimulus.  Now  it  was  that  we  regretted  our  pro- 
longed stay  at  the  hacienda  of  Trinidad,  interlarding  our  dis- 
jointed mutterings  with  occasional  rather  ungrateful  anathemas 
upon  the  house  and  its  inmates.  With  scarcely  a “let  up,”  the 
storm  continued  its  malignant  fury  until  nearly  dawn,  when  the 
wet  and  cold  becoming  insufferable,  we  crawled  out,  determined 
to  push  on  in  some  direction,  no  matter  where.  Any  motion  to 
keep  the  blood  in  circulation  seemed  preferable  to  the  benumb- 
ed misery  of  inaction. 

The  mules,  which  had  been  tied  by  their  rmttas  to  the  sur- 
rounding trees,  were  again  loaded,  and,  Yicente  taking  the  lead, 
we  struck  off  to  the  westward,  hoping  by  daylight  to  fall  in  with 
the  road.  My  pocket  compass  enabled  us  to  preserve  a straight 
course,  and,  after  an  hour’s  tearing  through  the  woods,  we  were 
gladdened  with  the  “ Hoo-pah  ! viva  la  camina  real  /”  from  the 
half-crazy  Yicente.  W e had  reached  the  beaten  track,  still  stretch- 
ing upward  along  the  bald  peak  of  Cerro  de  Ule. 

At  noon  we  came  to  the  small  hamlet  of  Nueva  Arcadia, 
4600  feet  above  the  sea.  It  would  be  difficult  to  describe  the 
utter  wretchedness  and  squalor  of  these  mountain  villages.  The 
races  inhabiting  them,  though  hardy  and  apparently  healthy, 
are  but  little  above  the  grade  of  brutes.  We  stopped  at  a de- 
serted mud  hut,  and,  thrusting  open  the  door,  entered  with  the 
eagerness  of  hunger,  and  set  about  preparing  breakfast.  Sud- 
denly T made  a leap  out  at  the  door,  ejaculating, 

“ Caramba  ! que  pulgas  estas  /” 

He  might  well  be  excused  for  his  precipitancy : his  clothing 
sparkled  with  the  rabid  little  insects,  and  the  nipping  of  the  few 
who  had  now  inserted  themselves  into  my  neck  and  sleeves  con- 
vinced me  that  I was  equally  alive  with  them.  Breakfast  was 
forgotten  instanter,  and  the  next  half  hour  devoted  to  a species 


176 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


of  Feejee  Island  war-dance,  to  the  great  glee  of  the  frowsy-head- 
ed little  savages  who  had,  as  usual,  collected  around  to  stare  at 
the  strangers.  The  thermometer  at  one  o’clock  P.M.  indicated 
71°  of  Fahrenheit.  Shortly  after  our  arrival  the  mountains  were 
again  enveloped  in  clouds,  and  a heavy  rain  commenced  which 
lasted  the  rest  of  the  day.  Though  we  could  have  reached  Te- 
gucigalpa before  night,  I proposed  to  build  a fire  and  devote  the 
remainder  of  the  day  to  drying  our  equipage,  rather  than  risk 
an  attack  of  ccdentura  by  continuing  our  fatiguing  scramble 
among  the  rocky  gorges  through  which  the  route  still  led. 

The  village  is  surrounded  by  pine  forests,  which,  as  I have 
said,  commence  at  an  altitude  of  about  2500  feet,  and  clothe 
nearly  the  entire  range  of  the  Cordilleras  of  Central  America. 
In  localities  where  these  do  not  occur,  their  place  is  supplied  by 
low  oaks  and  other  upland  shrubbery.  The  pine  of  the  sierra 
does  not  attain  the  size  of  the  Northern  tree,  being  rarely  over 
twenty -five  inches  in  diameter,  and  from  forty  to  eighty  feet  in 
feet  in  height.  It  is  of  the  yellow  and  pitch-pine  species,  and 
specimens  of  the  burs,  and  also  of  the  bark  and  inner  wood, 
which  I brought  from  Olancho,  as  well  as  from  the  Pacific  slope 
of  the  mountains,  compared  favorably  with  the  best  Northern 
lumber.  The  limestone  character  of  the  mountain,  scantily 
covered  with  soil,  affords  but  a slight  hold  for  their  roots.  I 
often  passed  miles  of  pines  prostrated  by  the  winter  northers, 
the  roots  of  which  had  apparently  extended  laterally  rather  than 
downward,  creeping  among  the  interstices  of  the  rocks,  and  pre- 
senting at  the  uptorn  butts  a mass  of  white,  dried  paste,  com- 
posed of  limestone,  disintegrated  quartz,  and  clay. 

These  features  continued  quite  across  the  sierras  into  the  De- 
partment of  Olancho,  where  the  pine  region  extends  lower  than 
on  the  Pacific  side.  The  pine  is  generally  straight-grained,  and 
fully  charged  with  pitch,  which  causes  conflagrations  in  the 
woods.  Unlike  those  of  North  America,  the  forests  of  Hondu- 
ras are  of  a scanty  growth,  the  trees  standing  several  yards 
apart,  and  generally  choked  with  underbrush.  They  inspire 
the  traveler  with  none  of  the  sublime  admiration  experienced  in 
the  grander  forests  of  the  United  States. 

Our  stay  in  Nueva  Arcadia  through  this  day  and  the  suc- 
ceeding night  would  have  been  positively  uncomfortable  with 


SUMMIT  OF  CERRO  DE  ULE. 


177 


the  cold  but  for  the  bright  pitch-pine  fire  we  kept  blazing  in 
the  centre  of  the  hut,  having  first  fumigated  it  and  burned  out 
the  fleas.  At  ten  o’clock  P.M.  my  thermometer  showed  a tem- 
perature of  60°,  which  was  the  coolest  weather  I had  yet  seen 
in  the  country.  A chilly  easterly  wind  succeeded  the  rain,  and 
made  us  glad  to  wrap  ourselves  in  thick  blankets.  At  dawn 
we  saddled,  and,  passing  along  the  slope  of  Ule,  stopped  to  gaze 
back  upon  the  panorama  beneath  us,  which,  in  the  slow-moving 
clouds  hanging  around  the  distant  peaks,  resembled  the  troubled 
ocean  heaving  in  a tempest. 

We  left  the  peak  of  Ule  on  our  left,  and,  as  it  seemed,  sev- 
eral hundred  feet  above  us.  I judged  its  altitude  to  be  about 
5000  feet  above  the  sea.  The  crest  of  the  mountains  here  pre- 
sented a succession  of  table-lands  and  plateaus,  with  a shallow 
but  fertile  soil.  The  country  was  evidently  productive,  as  small 
haciendas  were  scattered  along  its  extent,  which  we  soon  found 
began  to  slope  gently  to  the  northeast.  We  had  reached  the 
summit  of  the  Cordilleras , and  I could  not  repress  an  exclama- 
tion of  pleasure  at  noticing  the  course  of  the  numerous  rills  run- 
ning toward  the  Atlantic.  These,  however,  discharge  into  the 
Rio  Grande,  passing  near  Tegucigalpa  in  the  valley  beyond,  and 
emptying  as  the  Moromulca  into  the  Gulf  of  Fonseca. 

Here  we  observed  small  groves  of  the  wild  guava , generally 
detached  from  all  other  trees,  and  containing  small  yellow  fruit 
of  the  size  of  the  apricot.  Its  sweet,  aromatic  flavor  was  more 
than  grateful.  The  guava  is  eaten  at  all  seasons.  Its  effect  is 
pleasant  and  assuages  thirst ; the  pulp  is  rather  glutinous,  but 
firm,  and  melts  in  the  mouth ; the  fruit  opens  easily  with  the 
pressure  of  the  hands.  It  is  cultivated  in  the  lower  countries, 
where  it  becomes  finer  than  when  growing  wild  in  the  up- 
lands. The  tree  is  an  awkward,  scrubby  affair,  with  small, 
blunt  leaves. 

Our  rapid  ride  along  this  level  and  interesting  country  was 
an  agreeable  contrast  to  our  struggle  up  the  steeps  of  the 
mountains.  The  remainder  of  the  trip  would  be  downward  to 
Tegucigalpa,  and  we  hurried  along  our  jaded  beasts  in  pleased 
anticipation  of  the  comforts  of  civilized  life.  The  plain  extends 
a distance  of  several  leagues,  prettily  wooded  and  watered,  with 
some  of  the  productions  of  the  temperate,  and  all  of  the  tropical 

M 


178 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


regions  growing  in  profusion.  Here  I saw  the  first  Irish  pota- 
toes under  cultivation ; the  market  is  Tegucigalpa,  where  they 
are  purchased  as  a rarity  by  some  of  the  wealthier  families. 
The  cereals  are  also  raised  on  these  upland  plains.  The  view 
was  surprising  to  one  taught  to  regard  Central  America  as  the 
birth-place  of  plagues  and  fevers. 

The  whole  country  was  of  an  emerald  green,  and  dotted  with 
horses  and  cattle.  The  crowing  of  cocks,  and  the  many  sounds 
of  busy  life,  showed  it  to  be  the  scene  of  industry  and  thrift. 
We  passed  twenty-two  haciendas,  each  of  which  was  the  centre 
of  a little  cultivated  field,  and  had  its  quota  of  live-stock  in  the 
shape  of  pigs,  fowls,  and  screaming  brats  ; all  was  in  agreeable 
contrast  to  the  wretched  hamlets  we  had  passed  since  leaving 
the  coast.  The  air  was  bracing  and  exhilarating.  This  is  one 
of  the  highest  points  to  which  cultivation  has  been  carried  in 
Honduras.  From  here  the  descent  is  rapid,  the  road  leading 
around  the  edges  of  a precipice  several  hundred  feet  deep,  and 
offering  wild  but  extremely  picturesque  scenery.  After  an  ab- 
rupt descent  over  rudely-constructed  mule-paths,  we  came  upon 
the  Rio  Grande.  For  the  last  hour  we  had  known,  from  its 
boisterous  voice  heard  far  up  in  the  sierra,  that  its  waters  were 
swollen  to  an  unusual  height.  We  approached  the  river  by  a 
winding  path  worn  through  the  limestone.  Here  W'e  found  a 
deep  river  dashing  among  great  rocks,  and  doubly  angry  after 
the  heavy  rains. 

A party  of  pig-drivers  were  resting  on  the  banks,  awaiting 
the  subsidence  of  the  waters,  which,  in  Honduras,  rise  and  fall 

with  remarkable  quickness,  influenced  by  the  rains.  T 

proposed  to  swim  across  one  of  the  smoother  rapids,  in  order  at 
once  to  astonish  the  natives  and  ascertain  the  possibility  of 
reaching  the  city  before  night.  We  plunged  in  to  find  the 
depth,  but  were  soon  glad  to  get  back,  and  my  companion,  who 
was  farthest  out,  came  near  losing  his  hold  of  a rock  and  going 
down  the  rapids.  We  buffeted  the  torrent  to  no  avail,  and  got 
ashore  exhausted  and  crestfallen.  The  drovers  laughed,  and 
we  had  scarcely  commenced  dressing  when  a sudden  thunder- 
shower drove  us  into  a neighboring  jungle  under  a cliff.  Here 

T scared  out  a nest  of  black  wasps,  and  away  we  started 

again  for  a hut  a few  hundred  yards  below,  the  natives  yelling 


CROSSING  THE  RIO  GRANDE. 


179 


with  delight,  as  well  they  might  do,  for  our  appearance  was  any 

thing  hut  a dignified  one.  T did  not  tell  this  party  that  I 

was  “ el  minisiro ,”  for  reasons  best  known  to  himself.  The 
inuchachos  unloaded  the  mules,  and  we  were  soon  laughing  heart- 
ily at  our  adventure.  I was  thankful  that  our  assailants  were 

not  the  dreaded  “choker  hornets,”  of  which  T gave  me  a 

graphic  account.  In  Conder’s  work  on  Mexico  and  Guatemala, 
p.  186,  they  are  described  as  “ a species  of  venomous  wasp, 
called  ahorcadores  (hangmen),  on  account  of  the  singular  reme- 
dy which  is  believed  to  be  the  only  means  of  averting  the  fatal 
effects  of  their  sting  ; this  is  to  plunge  the  sufferer  immediately 
into  the  water,  or  to  compress  the  throat,  in  the  manner  of  hang- 
ing, until  he  is  nearly  exhausted.”  The  duena  of  the  hut  pre- 
pared a palatable  meal  for  us,  and  a few  hours  later,  the  river 
having  fallen,  we  saddled  and  made  our  final  start  for  Teguci- 
galpa, where  the  president  and  officers  of  the  government  had 
been  located  for  several  weeks. 

From  here  the  distance  to  the  city  is  three  leagues.  At  every 
turn  we  encountered  evidences  of  the  vicinity  of  a flourishing 
town.  Mule-trains,  loaded  with  the  products  of  the  country, 
passed  contentedly  along  toward  the  general  market.  Snug 
country  houses,  thatched  with  palm-leaves  or  roughly  tiled,  stood 
along  the  road,  which  had  now  become  a level  and  well-beaten 
highway.  Horsemen,  returning  to  town  from  a visit  to  some 
hacienda  in  the  outskirts,  cantered  gayly  past,  and  turned  to  take 
a second  look  at  our  travel-stained  little  cavalcade.  Pedestrians, 
bearing  loads  of  vegetables  and  fruits  upon  their  heads,  shouted 
the  never-failing  “ Buenos  tardes,  caballeros  /”  as  we  passed. 
The  country  seemed  in  a happy  and  prosperous  state,  and  al- 
most unconscious  of  the  political  turmoil  marking  its  history. 
With  the  exception  of  the  horsemen,  all  we  saw  were  sin  zapa- 
tos,  or  barefooted. 

As  we  passed  over  a small  ridge,  T directed  my  atten- 

tion to  an  opening  in  the  trees,  through  which  I obtained  my 
first  view  of  Tegucigalpa,  situated  in  the  northeastern  extremity 
of  an  extensive  valley  known  as  “El  Potrero”  The  sun  had 
just  emerged  from  a bank  of  rain-clouds,  and  the  many  white 
turrets  and  belfries  of  the  city  glistened  in  the  afternoon  sun- 
light. A beautiful  rainbow  spanned  the  valley,  and  the  verdure 


180 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


CITY  OF  TEGUCIGALPA. 


of  the  adjacent  mountains,  blending  with  the  purple  tints  of  the 
declining  day,  heightened  the  charm  of  romance,  never  entirely 
separable  from  these  secluded  relics  of  the  better  days  of  Spain. 
We  pursued  our  ride  over  a grassy  plain,  adorned  with  flowers 
and  spotted  with  bunches  of  cactus.  At  intervals  we  caught 
glimpses  of  the  city  between  the  foliage ; the  increasing  num- 
bers of  people  showed  it  to  be  a dia  de  fiesta , and  as  we  neared 
the  place,  the  sound  of  many  church-bells  came  faintly  and  mu- 
sically through  the  air.  The  plain  over  which  we  approached 
the  city  is  arid  and  dry  in  the  summer  season.  Here  Cabanas, 
with  two  hundred  men,  was  defeated  in  1838  by  the  Guatema- 
lans with  eight  hundred. 

We  now  came  to  the  River  Guasaripe,  flowing  slowly  through 
the  level  country,  and  emptying  in  the  Rio  Grande  near  the  city. 
This  we  forded  easily,  and  on  the  opposite  side  met  a number 

of  mounted  citizens,  who,  seeing  T (a  son-in-law  of  Mora- 

zan),  surrounded  him  and  exchanged  congratulations.  On  my 
being  introduced  to  the  party,  they  turned  back  and  formed  a 
sort  of  triumphal  escort.  A smart  gallop  brought  us  to  the  lit- 
tle outer  town  of  Comayaguela,  or  little  Comayagua.  This  has 


TEGUCIGALPA. 


181 


a distinct  jurisdiction  from  Tegucigalpa,  and,  being  rather  ro- 
mantically situated,  is  the  general  afternoon  resort  of  the  citi- 
zens. We  passed  through,  and  crossed  the  white  sandstone 
bridge  spanning  the  torrent  at  the  entrance  of  the  city.  Here 
the  Rio  Grande,  augmented  by  the  waters  of  the  Guasaripe  and 
Rio  Chiquito,  glances  down  from  the  dividing  ridge  between  the 
Departments  of  Tegucigalpa  and  Yoro,  and  flows  into  the  Rio 
de  Nacaome.  The  bridge  has  ten  arches,  the  abutments  being 
pointed  on  the  upper  face  to  break  the  force  of  the  water,  the 
old  bridge  of  the  Spaniards  having  been  washed  away  in  1830, 
at  which  time,  it  is  said,  the  present  one  was  constructed  by 
workmen  from  Guatemala.  Here  the  city  of  Tegucigalpa  com- 
menced. 

We  entered  a paved  street,  bordered  with  handsome  stone 
and  plastered  adobe  houses,  the  walls  painted  blue,  red,  cream- 
color,  or  white,  after  the  fancy  of  the  proprietor.  The  grated 
balconies,  narrow,  grass-grown  sidewalks,  regularly  tiled  roofs, 
paved  patios,  the  peculiar  and  simple  style  of  architecture,  the 
cries  of  street-venders,  the  equestrian  display,  and  the  dark-eyed, 
mantilla' d faces  gazing  listlessly  upon  us  from  the  cool,  prison- 
like residences,  reminded  me  more  of  Havana  than  any  city  I 
had  yet  seen  in  Central  America.  The  lack  of  the  eternal  din 
of  bugles  and  drums,  and  the  absence  of  the  volante  of  Cuba, 
however,  soon  destroyed  the  resemblance  in  my  mind. 

The  streets  are  all  named,  and  the  town  struck  me  at  first 
glance  as  an  exception  to  the  usual  ruined,  deserted  appearance 
of  Central  American  cities.  This  is  the  head-quarters  of  fash- 
ion and  gayety  in  Honduras.  My  various  letters  of  introduc- 
tion were  rather  a source  of  embarrassment,  as  the  first  to  whom 
I should  present  myself  would,  in  compliance  with  the  estab- 
lished usage  of  the  place,  consider  me  his  guest  during  my  visit. 

Out  of  the  package  I finally  selected  one  from  Castellon  to 
the  hospitable  Senor  Don  Jose  Maria  Losano,  one  of  the  wealth- 
iest residents  of  Tegucigalpa.  T , who  was  a nephew  of 

the  old  Don,  nodded  assent  to  my  look  of  inquiry,  and  to  the 
Calle  de  Morazan  we  made  our  way,  my  companion  answering 
kind  salutations  from  all  quarters.  We  entered  the  paved 
street,  and,  looking  beyond,  saw  the  heads  of  two  elderly  gen- 
tlemen pop  out  of  the  grated  ventana  de  sala  for  a moment. 


182 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


then  suddenly  disappear.  In  another  moment  the  proprietor  of 
the  mansion  had  gained  the  street,  and  was  shaking  hands  heart- 
ily with  my  companion.  As  soon  as  I was  introduced,  the  house 
and  all  it  contained  was  placed  “ at  my  disposition.” 

How  grateful  to  our  aching  limbs  and  heated  brows  was  the 
quiet  coolness  of  the  back  corridor  of  Don  Jose  Maria’s  resi- 
dence! Having  thrown  off  our  wet  and  soiled  clothing,  and 
donned  a presentable  attire  from  our  trunks,  we  swung  at  ease 
in  the  two  comfortable  hammocks,  enjoying  to  the  full  a deli- 
cious draft  of  tiste  and  the  agreeable  conversation  of  the  ’■'■Nina 

Teresa .”  As  T had  assured  me  would  be  the  case,  I found 

that  my  name  had  preceded  me,  and  the  visitors  who  occupied 
our  time  until  night  persisted  in  calling  me  “ doctor,”  and  plac- 
ing their  houses  at  my  disposition.  I had  long  since  learned 
the  formal  style  used  in  the  country,  and  what  with  exchanging 
cigarros,  and  repeatedly  leaving  the  hammock  to  return  the 
many  salutations,  we  were  both  heartily  glad  when  bedtime  ar- 
rived. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Interview  with  President  Cabanas. — Personal  Appearance. — Opinion  of  Olan- 
eho. — Past  and  Present  of  Tegucigalpa.  — Churches. — “La  Paroquia.” — A 
Serenade. — Sunday  Scenes. — The  Plaza  Market. — Morning. — Bill  of  Fare. — 
Liquors. — Chocolate. — Bread. — Potatoes.  — Manners  at  Table.  — Servants. — 
Style  of  Building. — Courtesies  of  Visiting. — Flowers  and  Flower  Gardens. — 
Birds.  — Amalgamation. — Jealousies  of  the  Blacks. — The  Liberal  Party. — 
Health  of  Natives. — Couriers. — Amusements. — Dullness  of  the  City. 

During  the  few  days  passed  in  exchanging  visits  and  deliv- 
ering letters  of  introduction,  I found  opportunity  to  study  the 
character  and  habits  of  the  secluded  population,  among  whom  I 
had  already  acquired  several  estimable  friends.  I determined 
now  to  lay  before  President  Cabanas  the  object  of  my  visit  to 
Honduras.  I had  received  previous  intimation  that  he  under- 
stood my  views,  and  had  expressed  himself  favorably  disposed 
toward  them. 

Learning  that  the  President  would  be  unoccupied  at  10 

o’clock,  I entered  with  T the  Casa  del  Gobierno,  situated 

on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river,  and  directly  overlooking  the 


INTERVIEW  WITH  CABANAS. 


183 


bridge.  A sentinel  stood  at  the  door,  who  presented  arms  as 
we  passed  into  an  interior  corridor,  paved  with  large  square 
flags,  opening  out  of  which  were  apartments  appropriated  to  the 
various  civil  and  military  offlcers.  The  house  was  more  spa- 
cious and  in  better  repair  than  any  I had  yet  seen.  In  the 
court-yard  below  grew  a variety  of  beautiful  trees,  and  several 
flights  of  stone  steps  led  from  this  arena  to  rooms  along  the 
second  story ; the  house  is  one  of  dos  altos , and  is  regarded  with 
peculiar  interest  as  the  former  property  and  residence  of  Mora- 
zan,  who  was  a native  of  Tegucigalpa. 

Passing  along  the  corridor  we  were  met  by  a servant,  who, 
with  rather  profuse  civilities,  ushered  us  into  a spacious  and 
gratefully  cool  apartment ; the  western  side  opened,  through 
two  wide  folding-doors,  into  a balcony,  from  which  the  lady  of 
General  Morazan  (a  son  of  the  former  President  of  Central 
America)  was  enjoying  the  prospect.  She  received  us  politely, 
and  had  just  finished  a prettily-turned  welcome  to  Honduras, 
with  the  hope  that  my  enterprise  would  prove  a successful  one, 
when  an  attendant  announced  that  the  President  would  be 
pleased  to  see  us. 

A curtain  of  faded  red  damask,  extended  across  the  opposite 
end  of  the  room,  served  to  separate  the  oficina  from  the  sola. 
This  was  drawn  aside,  and,  passing  its  ample  folds,  we  entered 
a small  cabinet ; the  furniture,  consisting  of  a few  desks  filled 
with  red-taped  files  of  papers,  a large  table,  and  a scanty  sup- 
ply of  chairs,  denoted  its  use.  T , who  was  related  to  him, 

advanced,  and  introduced  me  to  the  President.  He  was  seated 
at  a desk,  from  which  he  turned  toward  us  as  we  entered.  Ca- 
banas at  this  time  was  fifty-two  years  of  age ; but  the  cares 
and  hardships  of  military  life  had  furrowed  his  features.  His 
countrymen  have  ever  placed  an  unwavering  confidence  in  his 
public  course,  to  which,  even  among  those  inimical  to  his  liberal 
policy,  none  have  ascribed  other  than  the  purest  motives.  As 
I replied  to  his  manly  expressions  of  welcome,  so  anti-Spanish 
in  their  evident  sincerity,  I felt  that  here  at  least  was  a man 
whose  public  career  is  admitted  to  be  unstained  by  a single 
cruelty,  or  debased  by  one  treacherous  or  ungenerous  act. 

During  the  conversation  I had  opportunity  to  compare  him 
with  the  many  current  reports  respecting  his  personal  appear- 


184 


EXPL ORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


ance.  His  rather  diminutive  stature  was  offset  by  a remarka- 
bly erect  mien,  and  in  conversation  his  animated  gestures  were 
in  keeping  with  the  intelligent  play  of  his  features.  He  is,  in- 
deed, a noble  wreck  of  manhood,  and  full  of  placid  dignity. 
His  eyes  are  mild,  but  dark,  and  full  of  intellect.  The  hair, 
which  was  once  brown,  is  now  gray,  but  long,  while  the  beard, 
patriarchal  in  its  length  and  snowy  hue  (and  which,  in  accord- 
ance with  his  vow,  he  has  never  cut  since  the  murder  of  Mora- 
zan),  imparts  additional  interest  to  the  sad  expression  of  his 
face.  Cabanas  is  covered  with  wounds  received  in  unnumber- 
ed fights,  many  of  them  lost  to  history  in  the  seclusion  of  the 
little  theatre  of  war  where  they  have  occurred,  but  almost  in- 
credible in  savage  fury  and  bloody  reckoning. 

The  President  accepted  my  letters,  and  expressed  himself 
favorably  disposed  to  the  introduction  of  American  capital  and 
enterprise  for  the  development  of  the  resources  of  Honduras. 
He  referred  to  his  own  recent  action  in  dispatching  Senor  Bar- 
rundia  to  the  United  States  with  full  powers  to  negotiate  for 
the  extension  of  special  privileges  to  American  citizens,  and 
lamented  the  untimely  death  of  the  envoy  at  the  moment  the 
objects  of  his  mission  were  about  being  consummated.  He 
spoke  particularly  of  the  Department  of  Olancho  and  the  famous 

Guayape  River,  and  afterward  advised  T to  deter  me  from 

my  proposed  visit  there,  as  the  inhabitants,  separated  from  the 
rest  of  the  state  by  formidable  mountain  barriers,  had,  since  the 
independence  of  1821,  considered  themselves  a sort  of  local 
Democratic  community,  refusing  to  contribute  toward  the  pub- 
lic expenses,  and  regarding  strangers  with  jealousy  and  suspi- 
cion. In  fact,  during  this  interview,  he  twice  expressed  a de- 
cided disinclination  to  have  me  enter  an  unknown  section  of 
Central  America,  with  the  inhabitants  of  which  the  supreme 
government  had  repeatedly  been  in  dispute  as  to  impositions  for 
the  support  of  the  general  safety,  and  who  had  even  recently 
arisen  in  arms  to  repel  the  national  recruiting  officers.  He, 
however,  admitted  that,  with  full  and  explicit  letters,  and  a rea- 
sonable degree  of  prudence,  I might  visit  the  locality  of  the  Ze- 
layas  in  Olancho,  be  hospitably  received,  and  perhaps  enabled 
to  effect  some  important  contracts  with  them  in  relation  to  the 
celebrated  gold  region  of  the  Guayape.  These,  however,  being 


CABANAS  AND  THE  AMERICANS. 


185 


time  out  of  mind  the  prerogative  of  the  civilized  Indians  inhab- 
iting that  section  of  country,  might  possibly  lead  to  jealousies 
on  their  part.  This  and  other  scraps  of  information  I obtained 
from  Cabanas,  who,  I felt  assured,  spoke  frankly  and  above- 
board. It  was  evident  that  his  information  respecting  this  ex- 
treme end  of  Honduras  was  limited.  He  admitted  he  had  nev- 
er been  there,  and  this  I discovered  to  be  the  case  with  every 
military  leader  in  the  state  excepting  Morazan,  who  penetrated 
to  Lepaguare  with  a few  followers  in  1829,  and  entered  into  a 
treaty  with  the  Olanchanos. 

As  my  object  was  to  obtain  first  the  permission  of  the  su- 
preme government  to  make  explorations  and  enter  into  contracts 
with  natives  of  Honduras,  and  afterward  to  visit  the  auriferous 
region,  of  which  I had  heard  vague  accounts  since  my  arrival  in 
the  country,  I was  in  no  haste  to  quit  Tegucigalpa  without 
making  an  attempt  to  procure  some  essential  privileges  from 
the  government. 

These  subjects  discussed,  the  general  referred  to  the  United 
States  and  the  policy  of  the  American  government  toward  Cen- 
tral America.  His  frequent  interviews  with  Mr.  Squier  at  Co- 
mayagua  and  Gracias  had  enabled  him  to  form  a tolerably  cor- 
rect idea  of  our  country.  I am  convinced  that  Cabanas  would 
make  any  sacrifice  to  be  the  means  of  encouraging  American 
enterprise  in  Honduras.  Besides  his  instrumentality  in  pro- 
curing the  passage  of  the  Inter-oceanic  Rail-road  grant,  he  has 
done  every  thing  consistent  with  the  honor  of  his  country  in 
throwing  open  the  state  to  immigration.  Thirty  years  of  un- 
remitting service  in  the  countless  political  strifes  of  the  coun- 
try have  convinced  him,  as  well  as  many  other  leading  states- 
men of  Central  America,  that  it  is  only  by  the  superior  en- 
ergy and  intelligence  of  North  Americans  and  Europeans  that 
the  natural  resources  of  the  states  can  be  developed.  He  ex- 
pressed himself  ready  to  lend  his  aid  to  all  honorable  negotia- 
tions with  our  countrymen,  but  implacably  opposed  to  any  fili- 
buster attempts  against  Central  America.  I afterward  learned 
that  the  news  of  Colonel  Kinney’s  colonization  scheme  had  re- 
cently arrived  in  Tegucigalpa,  and  that  persons  disposed  to  less 
confidence  in  my  objects  than  Cabanas  had  associated  me  with 
that  enterprise.  This  retarded  my  operations,  especially  with 


186  EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 

the  more  virulent  opponents  of  Americans  in  Central  Amer- 
ica. 

It  was  late  in  the  day  when  I took  leave  of  Cabanas,  whom 
I have  since  had  cause  to  regard  with  an  affection  which  noth- 
ing short  of  his  kindness  of  heart  and  unassuming  courtesy  of 
demeanor  could  have  created. 

Tegucigalpa,  though  not  the  seat  of  government  in  Hondu- 
ras, is  the  largest  and  most  important  city  in  the  republic.  Its 
population  is  now  12,000,  composed  of  one  half  mestizos  and 
mulattoes,  the  remainder  divided  between  whites,  negroes,  quad- 
roons, and  Indians.  The  pure  whites  are  far  in  the  minority. 
The  city,  which  is  regularly  laid  out,  is  about  two  centuries  old, 
and  was  known  in  the  days  of  the  early  Spanish  settlers  as 
Taguzgaljoa.  Since  the  independence  the  place  has  decreased 
in  population,  owing  to  the  emigration  of  aristocratic  Spanish 
families,  whose  wealth,  accumulated  by  means  of  the  celebrated 
silver  mines  in  this  department,  was  suddenly  withdrawn  to 
Spain  and  the  Havana.  With  their  departure  and  the  imme- 
diate commencement  of  the  wars,  which  have  at  last  exhausted 
the  energies  of  the  country,  the  mining  industry  of  the  depart- 
ment became  extinct.  The  blacks,  who  had  worked  the  umin- 
erales ” as  slaves,  became  free  by  legislative  action,  and  the 
miners,  discouraged  by  taxes,  gave  up  in  despair.  The  work- 
men were  seized  and  forcibly  enlisted  in  the  petty  strifes  be- 
tween the  states.  The  mines  fell  to  decay,  or  were  purposely 
filled  up  by  their  owners,  who  have,  nevertheless,  retained  their 
claim  to  them  from  year  to  year.  With  the  decline  of  the  great 
branch  of  industry  which  had  served  to  support  the  people,  the 
city  subsided  into  a dreamy  quiet,  from  which  it  has  not  yet 
emerged.  Such  is  the  present  condition  of  Tegucigalpa,  once 
the  most  considerable  mining  city  in  Central  America.  Its 
large  and  substantially-built  churches  and  private  dwellings, 
now  but  sad  relics  of  their  former  splendor,  alone  attest  to  the 
decay  which  a quarter  of  a century’s  indolence  has  entailed. 
Several  of  the  mines  have  been  opened  within  the  last  ten  years, 
and  operations  resumed,  but  the  proprietors,  not  possessing  the 
means,  information,  or  energy  of  their  ancestors,  make  but  fee- 
ble imitations  of  the  old  Spanish  methods. 

During  my  two  visits  to  Tegucigalpa  and  its  immediate  vicin- 


CHURCH  OF  LA  PAROQUIA. 


187 


ity,  in  which  nearly  two  months  were  spent,  I made  a large  col- 
lection of  notes  and  extracts  from  old  Spanish  and  Guatemalan 
works  in  relation  to  the  former  state  of  the  silver  mines  and 
the  political  condition  of  the  people.  The  country  described  is 
one  whose  resources,  added  to  a temperate  climate,  is  likely  to 
attract  the  attention  of  Americans,  and,  it  is  reasonable  to  sup- 
pose, will  eventually  become  settled  by  the  Anglo-Saxon  race, 
from  the  fact  that  our  people  may  live  there  the  year  round 
without  prejudice  to  health. 

The  principal  buildings  in  the  city  are  the  few  churches  and 
old  convents,  now  divested  of  their  former  riches,  but  still  pre- 
serving the  half  Moorish  style  of  architecture.  Most  of  these 
are  sadly  dilapidated.  The  largest  and  most  venerable  pile 
among  them  is  La  Paroquia , occupying  the  east  side  of  the 


LA  PABOQCIA  AND  CONTENT  OF  SAN  FBANCI6CO. 


Plaza  of  that  name,  and  only  excelled  by  two  churches  in  the 
five  states,  those  of  Leon  and  Guatemala.  This  was  built  at 
the  expense  of  a devout  padre,  one  of  the  great  Zelaya  family, 
whose  branches  now  extend  to  all  parts  of  Central  America. 
The  only  public  clock  in  the  state  hangs  in  the  belfry  of  one  of 


V 


188 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  towers.  The  building  is  lofty,  and  occupies  an  entire  square. 
A massive  dome  rises  over  the  body  of  the  church ; the  cupola 
is  surmounted  by  a crown,  and  topped  with  a large  gilded  cross. 
The  edifice  is  built  of  burned  brick,  made  in  the  country,  and 
the  whole  plastered  and  whitewashed.  The  exterior  is  adorned 
with  niched  statues  representing  the  saints,  and  a variety  of 
carving  illustrative  of  scriptural  scenes.  The  interior  is  spa- 
cious, and  ornamented  with  coarse  portraits  of  the  apostles  and 
the  holy  family.  A gallery  extends  around  the  inner  walls,  in 
one  part  of  which  a small,  broken-winded  organ  peals  forth  dis- 
cordant strains  at  mass,  accompanying  the  choral  voices. 

On  the  second  night  after  our  arrival  we  were  awakened  by  a 
loud  knocking  at  the  sala  window,  and,  upon  opening  it,  were 
saluted  with  a modest  “ Buena  noche , Caballeros  /”  while,  at 
the  same  time,  an  itinerant  band  of  serenaders,  composed  of  per- 
formers on  the  guitar,  violin,  flute,  and  bass  viol,  commenced 
some  very  pretty  selections  from  a favorite  opera.  The  night 
was  starry  and  calm,  and  the  music,  though  any  thing  but  sci- 
entific, had  rather  a romantic  effect  as  it  echoed  softly  among 
the  moonlit  walls  of  the  opposite  buildings.  The  party  play- 
ed several  waltzes,  and  finally  I was  surprised  with  a laughable 
attempt  at  Old  Dan  Tucker  ! The  metre  was  ill  suited  to  the 
Spanish  drawling  style  of  music  generally  practiced  in  Hondu- 
ras, and  had  I heard  the  familiar  voice  of  the  razor-strop  man, 
or  Abby  Folsom  herself,  I could  scarcely  have  been  more  aston- 
ished. The  principal  performer  had  lived  in  Virgin  Bay,  Nica- 
ragua, and  there  had  caught  the  air  from  the  California  passen- 
gers. 

The  climate  of  this  section  of  Honduras  is  not  excelled  for 
salubrity  in  all  Central  America.  A volume  could  be  written 
illustrating  the  pure,  balmy  quality  of  this  upland  atmosphere. 
During  my  stay  here,  the  only  uncomfortable  hour  was  the  ear- 
ly morning,  when  the  air  was  always  too  sharp  and  bracing. 
A thermometrical  table  kept  by  me  in  various  parts  of  the  state 
for  several  months  best  illustrates  the  evenness  of  temperature 
in  these  mountains.  On  some  days  the  rain,  after  falling  with 
tropical  fury,  gives  place  to  a pure,  invigorating  air,  such  as  is 
sometimes  felt  after  a summer  thunder-shower  in  New  England. 
In  the  warmer  months  the  heat  is  rarely  oppressive,  and  at  the 


A TROPICAL  HALL-STORM. 


189 


coldest  seasons  fires  are  only  occasionally  required  for  comfort. 
It  is  here  proper  to  mention  a snow  and  hail  storm  occurring  in 
December,  1848.  Snow  had  never  before  been  known  on  the 
highest  lands  of  the  state,  nor  had  the  mercury  ever  fallen  to 
the  freezing  point : it  was  therefore  the  more  surprising.  A 
bank  of  black  clouds  was  observed  slowly  to  work  up  from  the 
northeast,  and  centre  about  a league  southwest  of  the  city. 
Soon  after,  the  air  was  darkened  with  “falling  ice,”  as  my  in- 
formants denominated  it,  and  the  earth  was  quickly  covered  by 
the  descending  masses.  Trees,  plants,  and  birds  were  destroy- 
ed. The  ice  was  spread  over  a space  of  two  square  leagues  in 
such  quantity  as  to  remain  on  the  ground  for  two  weeks. 

This  phenomenon,  which,  occurring  in  the  torrid  zone,  may 
well  excite  the  inquiry  of  the  curious  in  such  matters,  is  corrob- 
orated by  the  whole  population  of  the  city,  few  of  whom  had 
ever  before  seen  ice.  In  some  deep  gullies  the  frozen  sub- 
stance lay  four  feet  deep.  Many  of  the  hail-stones  weighed 
several  ounces.  Senores  Vigil,  Losano,  Ferrari,  and  a multi- 
tude of  citizens  stood  and  witnessed  the  spectacle.  The  agua- 
doras,  or  water-bearers,  came  into  the  city  for  several  days  with 
cakes  of  ice  (wrapped  in  cloths  and  balanced  upon  their  heads) 
weighing  from  twelve  to  twenty  pounds.  These  were  eagerly 
bought,  and  used  to  cool  drinking  water.  The  ice  fell  for  an 
hour.  Prayers  were  offered  in  the  churches  that  the  great  chu- 
basco  de  hielo  had  been  averted  by  the  saints  from  falling  upon 
and  destroying  the  city. 

The  ceremonies  of  the  Catholic  Church  are  observed  with 
scrupulous  exactness.  Many  attend  mass  in  the  morning,  and 
the  clanging  of  bells  is  the  only  sound  capable  of  arousing  the 
people  from  a state  of  lethargy  as  profound  as  that  in  which  the 
commerce  and  trade  of  the  country  itself  are  buried.  A church 
procession  is  a matter  of  every-day  occurrence.  These  usually 
pass  through  the  Calle  de  Mor'azan.  First  appear  twenty  or 
thirty  boys  bearing  lighted  candles,  which,  if  the  display  is  for 
the  departing  soul  of  some  inferma,  are  paid  for  by  the  family. 
The  friends  and  relatives  of  the  sick  person  follow,  and  after 
them  four  friars,  bearing  a silken  awning  or  canopy  over  the  pa- 
dre, who  walks  to  the  music  of  violins  and  a bass  viol.  From 
the  rim  of  the  canopy  are  suspended  red  silken  tassels,  support- 


190 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


eel  by  boys  arrayed  in  white  garments.  Then  follow  a large 
procession  of  senoritas,  repeating  prayers  for  the  soul  of  the 
passing  spirit  with  a volubility  quite  remarkable  to  hear.  The 
buzzing  of  many  voices,  the  monotonous  chanting  of  the  priests, 
and  the  discordant  scraping  of  stringed  instruments  struck  me 
as  quite  sufficient  to  frighten  any  orderly  and  well-disposed  soul 
out  of  the  world. 

At  the  passing  of  such  processions,  the  whole  of  Don  Maria’s 
household  usually  fell  upon  their  knees  and  joined  fervently  in 
prayers  for  the  afflicted  neighbor.  This  remnant  of  the  old  ex- 
aggerated forms  of  Catholicism  is,  perhaps,  well  adapted  to  a 
population  on  whom  it  is  necessary  to  impress  a religious  awe 
by  the  formalities  of  the  creed. 

Among  the  many  persons  with  whom  I exchanged  visits  was 
Senor  Cacho,  Minister  of  Hacienda,  a gentleman  some  sixty 
years  of  age,  but  full  of  work  and  vivacity — patriotic  and  enthu- 
siastic on  the  Liberal  question.  This  gentleman,  a chemist  as 
well  as  politician,  is,  moreover,  the  proprietor  of  several  mines  of 
cinnabar  in  the  Department  of  Gracias,  which  he  expressed  an 
anxiety  that  I should  visit.  Senor  Cacho  is  strongly  in  favor 
of  encouraging  American  immigration  to  Honduras,  and  so  ex- 
pressed himself  to  me  repeatedly. 

On  Sunday  one  may  see  life  in  Tegucigalpa.  This  is  ob- 
served rather  as  a day  of  recreation  than  of  worship.  The  shops 
are  open,  and  display  their  stock  of  goods  to  the  best  advant- 
age. Laborers  have  been  paid  off,  and  every  body  has  mon- 
ey. The  shops  are  well  stocked  with  traps  of  all  kinds : man- 
ufactured Sherry  wine,  imported  via  Balize,  for  $1  per  bottle, 
and  Champagne  for  $1.25.  The  principal  stores  are  in  the  Pla- 
za and  the  streets  opening  from  it.  Many  of  the  dealers  are 
from  Havana,  which  also  supplies  a considerable  portion  of  the 
goods.  Dry-goods  shops  were  filled  with  what  appeared  to  me 
costly  dresses,  and  as  for  female  finery,  I saw  almost  every 
thing  a lady  might  call  for : like  an  American  country  grocery, 
they  contain  every  thing  likely  to  meet  with  a ready  sale. 

With  fruits  the  market  is  well  supplied  during  the  morn- 
ing and  early  forenoon.  These,  consisting  in  part'of  limes , or- 
anges, nisperos,  papayas,  cocoanuts,  lemons , ananas , bananas , 
jocotes,  figs,  pine-apples,  and  melons,  are  spread  in  tempting 


MORNING  CUSTOMS. 


191 


river.  From  this  you  may  easily  reach  the  summit  of  Zapasu- 
ca,  to  the  northwest  of  the  city,  overlooking  Comayaguela  and 
the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Returning,  you  take  a cup  of 
coffee  or  cacao,  and  then  promenade,  or  amuse  yourself  with  a 
book  or  La  Gaceta  Rom  Guatemala  until  breakfast.  This  takes 


profusion  on  large  pieces  of  cloth,  on  hides,  or  in  baskets  along 
the  porch  of  the  barracks,  forming  one  side  of  the  Plaza  de  la 
Paroquia.  One  may  purchase  with  a silver  medio  (six  cents) 
all  the  fruit  he  will  find  it  safe  to  eat  in  a day.  The  market- 
women  stand  in  groups  around,  and  pass  the  day  chatting  with 
each  other,  or  oftener  engaged  in  loud  laughter  with  the  soldiers 
or  loafing  fellows  always  to  be  found  congregated  about  the  sun- 
ny porch. 

To  enjoy  life  in  these  mountain  regions,  you  must  rise  early 
and  take  the  delightful  breeze  of  the  morning,  when  the  dew  is 
yet  fresh  on  the  plantain  leaves,  and  the  pavements  of  the  town 
have  not  been  submitted  to  their  diurnal  heating.  Nothing  can 
excel  the  sensations  of  the  early  riser  as  he  issues  forth  and 
strolls  in  the  brisk  air  toward  the  Plaza,  or,  if  he  is  equal  to 
the  shock,  wends  his  way  to  some  secluded  spot  below  the  city, 
and  joins  the  merry  group  splashing  in  the  mad  waters  of  the 


192 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


place  abont  ten  o’clock,  though  it  is  often  delayed  until  nearly 
noon. 

The  bill  of  fare  for  breakfast  usually  consists  of  boiled  rice 
and  beans,  salads,  bread,  butter,  and  cheese,  tortillas,  cafe  con 
leche,  and  fruit,  and  while  I was  in  the  country  it  rarely  differed 
from  this.  For  dinner  you  have  vermicelli  soup,  roast  beef, 
salad,  and  many  of  the  vegetables  common  in  the  United  States. 
Besides  these,  you  have  the  ollas  fried  with  garlic,  the  picadillo 
of  half-cooked  lights,  oil,  rice,  and  plantains,  higado  or  baked 
slices  of  liver,  salchichas  stuffed  with  lard  and  garlic,  catamales 
filled  with  bits  of  fat  meat  and  cheese,  came  cocido,  calde , and, 
lastly,  rice  boiled  with  mantequilla  and  chiles.  Verduras,  or 
greens,  a favorite  accompaniment,  consists  of  plantains,  pieces  of 
pumpkin,  and  cabbage.  These  comprise  the  common  solid  dish- 
es of  the  country  ; but  there  is  often,  in  addition,  bread  soup,  and 
a mixture  of  rice  and  vegetables,  the  name  of  which  is  local,  and 
has  escaped  me.  This  is  the  usual  fare  in  the  interior  of  Hon- 
duras. On  the  coast,  to  judge  from  an  account  given  by  Hen- 
derson, p.  134,  the  fare  is  more  varied,  and,  perhaps,  equally  pal- 
atable. At  a dinner  were  served  up  for  a party  of  Englishmen 
calipash,  soused  maniti,  fricasseed  guana,  waree  steaks,  barbacued 
monkey,  armadillo  curry,  turtle  soup,  parrot  pie,  roast  antelope, 
smoked  peccary,  boiled  Indian  rabbit,  stewed  hiccatee,  and  cali- 
pee ! The  author  adds  below, 

“ Nec  sibi  coenarum  quivis  temere  arroget  artem, 

Non prius  exacta  tenui  ratione  saporum.” — Hor.,  Sat. 

The  fastidious  stranger  will  find  but  few  liquors  in  any  part 
of  Central  America  suited  to  his  taste.  The  wines  especially 
are  a burlesque  on  the  name.  In  the  days  of  the  Spanish  rule 
the  culture  of  the  grape  was  prohibited,  and  since  the  rejection 
of  the  mother  country  the  vine  has  not  been  introduced.  The 
wine  consists  mostly  of  cheap  imitations  brought  from  Balize, 
Truxillo,  or  the  Bay  of  Fonseca,  to  which  points  they  are  im- 
ported in  English  and  Italian  vessels.  St.  Julian  Medoc , Sher- 
ry, Champagne,  and  a variety  of  sweet  mixtures  labeled  Elixir 
J Amour  and  other  like  names,  are  found  in  the  tiendas.  The 
aguardiente  del  pais  is  perhaps  the  most  harmless  liquor  that 
can  be  taken  in  Central  America.  The  doctors,  foreign  and  na- 


MANUFACTURE  OF  CHOCOLATE. 


193 


tive,  recommend  its  use  in  traveling.  This  is  generally  placed 
in  a small  decanter  on  the  table  at  dinner,  and  serves  as  a settler 
after  the  meats. 

The  prepared  chocolate  of  Central  America  is  somewhat  like 
that  brought  from  Mexico,  but  the  method  of  preparing  it  is  dif- 
ferent. After  a hot  day’s  ride  I know  nothing  more  soothing, 
and,  at  the  same  time,  delightfully  palatable,  than  a foaming  cup 
of  the  chocolate  de  Honduras.  I had  a large  boxful  made  to 
carry  out  of  the  country,  and  noted  the  manner  in  which  it  is 
“put  up.”  A pound  of  cacao  is  baked  or  parched,  being  care- 
fully stirred,  until  the  shell  cracks,  after  which  the  husk  is  rub- 
bed or  shelled  off  by  chafing  between  the  hands.  It  is  then 
ground  in  the  matete,  as  corn  is  prepared  for  tortillas , reducing 
the  substance  to  an  oily  paste.  About  one  ounce  and  a half 
of  vanilla  is  added,  with  enough  powdered  cinnamon  to  suit  the 
taste  of  the  maker,  and  sugar  if  required.  When  this,  by 
working,  is  reduced  to  a liquid  consistency,  it  is  allowed  to  drop 
in  small  round  cakes,  each  of  which,  when  hardened,  makes  two 
ordinary  cups  of  chocolate  by  simply  dissolving  them  in  boiling 
water  and  cream.  The  top  is  covered  with  a fragrant  froth. 
The  steamers  plying  between  San  Francisco  and  San  Juan  del 
Sur  have  latterly  brought  an  excellent  quality  of  chocolate  from 
Nicaragua,  but  I have  never  seen  any  to  equal  that  made  to  or- 
der in  Eastern  Honduras. 

Wheaten  bread  in  small  rolls  is  sold  at  the  street  corners  and 
left  at  the  door  by  a barelegged  jp anadero,  who  walks  the  streets 
with  his  stock  in  trade  on  his  head.  Tortillas  are  universally 
preferred,  and  are  found,  crisp  and  smoking,  on  every  table. 
During  Lent,  the  devout  Catholics  are  supplied  with  dried  oys- 
ters from  Fonseca  Bay,  brought  up  the  sierra  in  bags,  and  sold 
by  the  pound.  These  are  eaten  with  potatoes. 

About  twice  a week  I observed  a dish  of  papas,  or  Irish  po- 
tatoes, on  the  table,  which  Don  Jose  Maria  had  evidently  pro- 
cured as  a special  luxury  for  me.  He  always  eyed  them  with 
pride,  and  was  constantly  urging  me  to  load  my  plate  with  them. 
They  were  diminutive  and  quite  white,  but  tasted  very  well  with 
any  of  the  made  dishes.  The  potato  is  said  to  have  been 
brought  to  Central  America  from  Peru,  but  one  of  the  padres 
in  Tegucigalpa  assured  me  that  it  was  indigenous,  and  that  it 

N 


194 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


could  be  found  growing  wild  in  the  mountains.  I never  heard 
this  statement  corroborated.  The  potato  can  only  be  grown 
in  the  highest  lands  of  the  country.  At  Santa  Lucia,  about 
4500  feet  above  the  sea,  I saw  a small  potato-field,  from  which, 
in  March,  some  of  the  families  of  Tegucigalpa  were  being  sup- 
plied. They  bring  a medio  (six  cents)  a pound.  They  are 
planted  immediately  after  the  rains  have  moistened  the  earth 
sufficiently  to  admit  of  plowing.  The  method  of  cultivation  is 
a rude  imitation  of  that  pursued  at  the  North.  The  seed,  in  the 
lower  country,  quickly  runs  to  balls.  In  the  mountains  of 
Guatemala  this  vegetable  is  also  raised,  and  carried  many 
leagues  to  market  on  the  backs  of  mules.  One  day,  at  table,  I 
ventured  to  assert,  with  as  much  unconcern  as  I could  assume, 
that  I had  seen  potatoes  in  California  weighing  three  pounds 
(not  an  uncommon  size  there).  Don  Jose  Maria  gazed  at  the  lit- 
tle vegetable  marbles  in  the  dish  before  us  and  then  at  me  with 
an  incredulous  smile,  but  instantly  remembering  the  courtesies 
of  the  host,  he  nodded  assent.  It  was  evident  he  regarded  this 
as  a traveler’s  tale. 

The  manners  at  table  are  generally  sedate  and  always  cour- 
teous. Hilarity  at  meal-times  is  seldom  seen.  The  custom  of 
placing  a tumbler  for  each  person  at  table  is  unknown,  the  wa- 
ter being  brought  when  the  meal  is  finished.  After  dinner  comes 
coffee,  jams,  or  preserved  fruit,  and  a variety  of  sugared  sweet- 
meats. The  health  of  the  master  and  mistress  of  the  house  is 
pledged,  as  elsewhere,  in  the  first  glass  of  wine  or  other  bever- 
age. Servants  are  difficult  to  procure  in  democratic  Honduras, 
where  every  able-bodied  fellow  is  liable  to  be  seized  as  a sol- 
dier. The  few  that  can  be  obtained  are  awkward,  and  require 
months  of  training  to  be  made  useful.  They  are  generally  mu- 
lattoes,  and  without  intelligence.  The  cooking  is  done  in  a 
small  building  behind  the  dwelling-house,  built  of  adobe ; the 
range  or  fire-place,  also  of  adobe,  is  called  the  fogon. 

Most  of  the  natives  of  Honduras  reside  on  the  ground  floor. 
If  you  ask  the  reason  of  this,  in  Nicaragua,  it  is  to  avoid  earth- 
quakes ; in  Honduras,  it  is  because  their  antepasados  built  hi 
this  manner — innovations  being  distasteful  to  the  Spaniard. 
The  principal  apartment,  denominated  the  seda,  is  used  as  a 
parlor  or  reception-room,  and  here  the  family  pass  the  greater 


EXCHANGING  CIVILITIES. 


195 


part  of  the  day,  doing  nothing  in  the  forenoon,  and,  as  a friend 
once  remarked  to  me,  sitting  at  the  window  in  the  afternoon 
and  evening  to  recover  from  the  fatigue  of  it.  The  corridor  or 
porch  often  extends  quite  around  the  house,  the  rear  one  facing 
upon  a paved  patio  or  yard  generally  containing  a few  fruit- 
trees,  and  surrounded  with  high  mud  walls,  protected  from  the 
rains  by  roofs  of  tiles.  The  cocina  or  cook-house  forms  one 
side,  and  a stable  the  other.  All  these  small,  buildings ' are 
kept  nicely  whitewashed.  An  immensity  of  clean  shirt  bosom 
and  a newly-painted  house  are  the  peculiar  pride  of  the  Span- 
iard. 

The  master  of  the  house  always  meets  his  visitor  as  he  en- 
ters, and,  at  his  departure,  ushers  him  to  the  door,  holding  his 
cane  and  hat.  If  you  are  particularly  welcome,  or  your  visit  is 
regarded  as  an  honor,  your  host  accompanies  you  through  the 
corridor  quite  to  the  street  gate,  and  you  will  do  well  if  you  are 
able  to  make  the  concluding  bow  and  have  the  final  “ adios, 
senor  mio for,  no  matter  how  often  you  repeat  it,  Don  Fulano 
considers  it  a breach  of  etiquette  not  to  have  the  last  word  in  a 
leave-taking.  I have  often  experimented  in  this,  and  never  yet 
was  able  to  gain  a verbal  victory  over  my  entertainer. 

The  residences  of  the  wealthier  classes  are  cleanly  and  cool, 
have  neat  gardens  in  the  rear  adorned  with  beautiful  flowers, 
and  birds  of  the  country  in  wooden  cages.  Flower  culture  is 
not  generally  practiced,  and  in  the  higher  lands  one  rarely  meets 
with  wild  flowers  of  such  size  and  beauty  as  should  be  expect- 
ed in  the  tropics.  Nature  seems  to  have  reserved  her  gaudy 
colors  for  the  plumage  of  birds,  and  has  thus  more  than  com- 
pensated for  their  absence  in  the  floral  kingdom.  Hyacinths, 
roses,  pinks,  and  honeysuckles,  blue  and  white,  were  sometimes 
seen,  and  the  latter  frequently  attains  such  profusion  in  a wild 
state  as  to  choke  and  impede  the  growth  of  the  corn,  among 
which  it  clambers  and  flourishes. 

Among  the  birds  in  Tegucigalpa  and  vicinity  I saw  the  ma- 
caw, goldfinch,  redbird,  greenbird  (the  beautiful  verderon,  with 
spotted  breast),  the  yellow  thrush  of  superb  plumage,  the  par- 
rot, and  many  others.  Some  of  these  are  not  common  to  the 
temperate  uplands  of  the  interior,  but  are  brought  here  from 
their  native  plains  of  the  coast.  There  is  also  a very  beautiful 


196 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


snecies  of  the  orange-colored  thrush,  with  a black  breast.  The 


lustrous  green.  The  tail  of  this  splendid  bird  has  seven  feath- 
ers which  attain  the  length  of  nearly  three  feet.  A specimen 
is  said  to  have  been  exhibited  at  the  Universal  Exposition  at 
Paris  in  1855,  but,  with  that  exception,  I believe  this  rare  crea- 
ture has  not  been  noticed  by  ornithologists.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  many  gorgeous  denizens  of  the  forests  of  interior  Central 
America. 

The  system  of  amalgamation  of  races  which  has  been  intro- 
duced into  Honduras  during  the  last  thirty  years  has  almost 
obliterated  the  distinguishing  line  between  the  blacks  and 
whites.  This  is,  perhaps,  the  greatest  misfortune  that  could 
have  befallen  the  country.  The  mixture  of  the  offshoots  of  the 
white,  negro,  and  Indian  have  entailed  upon  the  country  a race 
ranging  in  hue  from  chocolate  to  cream-color.  An  occasional 
white  may  be  found  among  the  descendants  of  the  old  aristo- 
cratic Spanish  families,  who  have  jealously  avoided  intermarry- 
ing with  the  Indians  or  blacks ; but  these  instances  are  rare, 
and,  with  the  actual  numerical  increase  of  the  others,  they  seem 
to  regard  the  eventual  extermination  of  the  white  race  with  a 
resigned  despondency. 


TEOGON8  EESPLENDENS. 


bird  of  Paradise,  or 
one  not  unlike  it,  is 
found  in  Guatemala 
and  Honduras,  and 
killed  for  the  surpass- 
ing beauty  of  its  plu- 
mage. It  is  the  an- 
cient quetzal  (Trogons 
Resplendent),  and  in 
Honduras  is  some- 
times called  the  palo- 
ma  real,  from  its  fan- 
cied resemblance  in 
shape  to  the  dove. 
Its  entire  body  is  of 
a pale  rose-color,  the 
head  a shade  darker, 
and  the  wings  of  a 


AMALGAMATION  OF  RACES. 


197 


After  the  independence,  the  pure  whites  discovered  a grow- 
ing jealousy  among  the  blacks  and  mixed  races  of  their  superior 
intelligence.  These  last,  however,  were  sufficiently  well  pleased 
with  the  overthrow  of  the  Spanish  rule  and  the  establishment 
of  Republicanism,  with  which  they  anticipated  an  immediate  in- 
flux of  wealth  and  ease,  and  a change  for  the  better  not  unlike 
that  looked  forward  to  by  the  French  Revolutionists  of  1848. 
The  sudden  change  gave  rise  to  the  Liberal  and  Conservative 
parties,  the  former  of  whom  advocated  the  establishment  of  a 
grand  confederacy  of  the  Central  American  States,  and  the  lat- 
ter, composed  of  the  remnants  of  the  old  Spanish  families,  the 
maintenance  of  separate  state  governments.  These  were  assist- 
ed by  the  many  petty  aspirants  for  power  in  various  sections, 
and  the  priesthood,  who,  all-powerful,  and  holding  the  arm  of 
the  Church  in  terror  over  the  superstitious  multitude,  determ- 
ined to  sustain  the  few  wealthy  families  in  the  country  as  best 
calculated  to  preserve  to  the  Church  its  original  sway.  The 
Liberals  have  usually  been  supported  by  the  mass  of  the  peo- 
ple, while  the  Conservatives,  or  “ Serviles,”  as  they  have  been 
denominated,  have  endeavored  to  earn  popular  favor  by  propi- 
tiating the  blacks  and  Indian  races,  and  exciting  them  against 
the  whites. 

These  issues,  the  real  cause  of  the  never-ending  wars  between 
the  states,  have  latterly  arrived  at  such  a point  that  a few  years 
must  decide  them  for  one  or  the  other  party.  The  series  of 
events  which  in  Nicaragua  have  enlisted  American  adventurers 
in  the  Liberal  cause  is,  perhaps,  destined  to  settle  the  question 
of  castes  or  races  more  speedily  than  could  otherwise  have  been 
the  case  for  many  years  to  come.  Circumstances  have  occurred 
in  the  last  two  years  that  have  materially  altered  the  position 
of  affairs,  and  families  formerly  the  most  instrumental  in  enlist- 
ing the  blacks  and  Indians  in  the  deadly  feuds  of  the  country 
now  stand  in  fear  of  these  elements  as  destined  to  overshadow 
and  exterminate  them,  unless  the  introduction  of  the  more  po- 
tent race  of  North  Americans  shall  counterbalance  the  increasing 
numbers  of  the  blacks.  But  few  families  have  escaped  the  taint 
of  amalgamation.  The  priesthood  is  every  year  becoming  more 
generally  represented  by  the  negro,  and  these  regard  with  ill- 
concealed  jealousy  the  advance  of  Americans  into  any  part  of 


198 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Central  America.  Every  effort  to  encourage  the  immigration 
of  foreigners  by  the  Liberals  is  watched  with  hostility  by  the 
colored  priests. 

The  great  men  of  the  country  among  the  Liberals  are  nearly 
all  dead,  murdered  or  worn  out  in  the  hopeless  struggle.  Valle, 
Morazan,  Bustillos,  Barrundia,  and  Molina  have  passed  away, 
with  the  goal  of  their  hopes  almost  in  sight.  There  now  re- 
main Cabanas,  Cacho,  Mejia,  and  a few  others,  whose  efforts  for 
the  establishment  of  the  old  Liberal  party  and  the  union  of  the 
Central  American  States  on  the  Morazan  basis  have  been  the 
cause  of  their  expatriation  and  persecution. 

With  the  decline  of  the  Liberal  party  the  negro  race  has 
gradually  gained  the  ascendency  in  Honduras.  Even  a negro 
servant  can  not  be  procured,  that  class  refusing  to  employ  them- 
selves where  manual  labor  is  required.  In  one  or  two  instances 
foreigners  have  brought  free  colored  traveling  servants  into  the 
country,  but  they  quickly  fall  into  the  indolent  habits  of  the 
blacks  around  them,  become  “gentlemen,”  and  quit  their  em- 
ployers. The  stranger  with  an  excellent  servant  may  thus  sud- 
denly find  himself  minus  that  useful  personage,  who  from  plain 
Bob  Long  has  become  Senor  Don  Roberto  Longorio,  upon  a par 
with  many  of  the  dusky  Caballeros  around  him,  and  superior  to 
nearly  all  of  them  in  intelligence,  besides  being  traveled  and  a 
foreigner.  You  more  than  probably  soon  hear  of  Don  Roberto 
regaling  himself  in  the  first  houses  in  town.  There  are,  how- 
ever, a number  of  negro  families  of  great  respectability,  mem- 
bers of  which  have  occupied  seats  in  the  Chamber  of  Deputies. 
It  was  one  of  these  who,  when  the  Inter-oceanic  Rail-road  Bill 
was  passing  the  Senate,  objected  to  the  whole  project  on  the 
ground  that  the  entrance  of  Americans  into  the  country  would 
be  the  signal  for  the  downfall  of  the  colored  race. 

As  regards  health  and  robustness  of  person,  the  native  of 
Eastern  Honduras,  though  generally  fleshy  and  well  formed,  is 
not  constitutionally  as  well  able  to  withstand  any  deleterious 
effect  of  the  climate  as  under  the  same  circumstances  an  Amer- 
ican would  be.  This  results  mainly  from  the  fruit  and  slops 
diet  of  the  poorer  classes,  few  being  able  to  buy  meat  excepting 
in  the  great  cattle  districts  of  Olancho,  where  beef  is  the  princi- 
pal food.  Yet  they  make  the  most  patient  and  enduring  sol- 


COURIERS. 


199 


diers  in  the  world,  traveling,  as  in  the  times  of  Morazan,  twen- 
ty leagues  a day  through  the  mountains,  and  subsisting  on  boil- 
ed plantains.  The  couriers  of  the  country  trot,  shod  with  leath- 
ern sandals,  twenty  leagues  a day  in  all  weathers.  I often  en- 
countered these  men  in  the  lonely  passes  of  the  sierras,  with  a 
small  packet  of  letters  strapped  to  the  back,  jogging  swiftly 
along  at  a gait  between  a fast  walk  and  a run.  They  are  al- 
ways robust  and  well  developed  from  constant  exercise. 

The  system  of  couriers  dates  back  to  the  times  of  the  early 
Spaniards.  A courier,  whether  private  or  government,  passes 
through  the  country  with  perfect  immunity  from  impressment 
or  other  impediment.  Their  calling  is  almost  sacred,  and  who- 
ever interferes  with  them  is  regarded  as  an  offender  against  the 
public  weal.  They  are  universally  honest.  No  record  exists 
of  a courier  having  robbed  his  employer,  or  surrendered  the  let- 
ters intrusted  to  his  charge  unless  waylaid  and  intercepted  by 
an  enemy’s  force.  At  such  times  they  have  dexterous  methods, 
known  only  to  themselves,  of  concealing  dispatches  or  docu- 
ments. I have  known  a courier  to  start  from  Tegucigalpa  with 
letters  for  Cojutepeque  in  San  Salvador,  perform  his  commis- 
sion, and  return  with  an  answer  in  five  days.  They  are  the 
only  mail  facilities  in  all  Central  America.  But  the  greater 
part  of  the  population  of  Honduras  are  an  indolent,  listless 
class,  setting  no  value  upon  time,  taking  little  exercise  except 
on  horseback,  and  consequently  soft  and  feeble  in  constitution. 

With  all  the  stillness  of  life  in  an  interior  town  of  Honduras, 
there  is  much  to  amuse  the  stranger.  At  table,  my  chair  being 
placed  near  the  grated  window,  on  a level  with  the  street,  I 
would  turn  at  hearing  an  earnest  conversation  and  low  breath- 
ing near  me.  The  window  would  be  blocked  up  with  eager  lit- 
tle brown,  red,  and  black  faces,  gazing  intently  at  “ el  estran- 
gero ,”  and  commenting  on  my  various  motions.  Sometimes  I 
laughed  outright,  when  the  little  imps  would  join  in  with  a yell 
of  delight,  thrusting  their  noses  through  the  gratings  like  mon- 
keys. But  these  scenes  became  stale  and  uninteresting  after  a 
few  weeks.  The  waving  green  and  balmy  breezes  of  the  coun- 
try soon  satiate  the  appetite  of  an  American.  The  eternal 
quiet,  the  empty  streets,  innocent,  since  the  days  of  Alvarado, 
of  the  noise  of  a cart  wheel,  the  grass  growing  along  the  paved 


200 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


gutters,  the  high  adohe  walls  and  still  gardens  beyond,  the  lazy 
tolling  of  the  church  hells  for  mass,  the  slouch  of  the  pedestri- 
ans, the  listless  gaze  of  the  shop-keeper,  seated  idly  on  his  count- 
er, as  you  pass,  and  the  total  want  of  excitement,  must,  ere  long, 
weary  the  man  whose  breath  has  been  half  taken  away  in  the 
rush  of  events  in  California  or  the  busy  tramp  of  Broadway. 


CHAPTER  XL 

Traveling  Preparations. — Mounted  Caballeros. — The  Bridge. — Scenes  on  the 
River. — Public  Manners. — Gambling. — Begging.  — Tailoring.  — Cabanas  on 
Horseback. — A Visit  to  the  Cuartel. — Academia  Literaria  de  Tegucigalpa. — 
An  Examination. — A Ball  in  High  Life. — Baptism. — Visit  to  the  Mint. — A 
Honduras  Guerrilla. — Fishing  in  the  Rio  Grande. — Meeting  an  American.— 
House  Architecture. — Furniture. — Women  of  Honduras. — Passing  Compli- 
ments.— -Public  Amusements. — Cock-fighting. 

The  preparation  for  a journey  in  Honduras  is  attended  with 
all  the  formalities  of  the  olden  time.  The  affair  is  talked  over 
for  a week,  and  the  uninitiated,  who,  after  hearing  of  the  intend- 
ed departure  to-morrow,  sees  the  supposed  traveler  still  loiter- 
ing about  the  streets,  or  swinging  contentedly  in  his  hammock 
a week  afterward,  at  last  learns  that  to  propose  and  to  act  are 
entirely  different  matters  in  Central  America.  A person  intend- 
ing to  leave  for  a distant  part  of  the  country  will  often  delay  his 
departure  weeks  for  some  trivial  matter,  such  as  a dia  de  fiesta, 
or  the  company  of  a friend  on  the  road. 

A number  of  Salvadorenos  had  arranged  to  start  for  San  Mi- 
guel on  a certain  day,  and,  being  desirous  of  sending  letters  there, 
I hastened  to  write  and  seal  them  in  time  for  the  bustling  party, 
whose  movements  indicated  an  early  departure  on  the  following- 
morning.  I delivered  my  package,  and  exchanged  formal  adios 
with  all,  but  on  the  ensuing  day  found  them  chatting  uncon- 
cernedly in  the  different  tiendas.  Four  weeks  afterward  they 
started  in  good  earnest,  the  interim  having  been  occupied  in 
talking  over  the  probable  condition  of  the  road,  the  last  revolu- 
tion, and  the  weather. 

Early  one  morning,  as  I was  returning  from  a refreshing  swim 
in  the  river,  I observed  an  unusual  commotion  in  the  Calle  de 
Concepcion , and  on  approaching  found  my  friends  ready  mount- 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  TRAVELING. 


201 


ed,  and,  at  last,  ready  for  their  journey.  At  the  door  of  a tienda 

stood  the  gray-headed  Don  P , gazing  with  stupid  pleasure 

upon  the  gallant  equipage.  A group  of  loiterers,  attracted  by 
the  tramping  of  mules’  hoofs  on  the  pavement,  lounged  in  every 
attitude  around  the  scene  of  preparations.  A dozen  lightly-clad 
ladies,  with  beads  enveloped  in  mantillas , peered  anxiously  from 
the  surrounding  windows,  exchanging  silent  good-by’s  with  de- 
parting friends  or  lovers.  The  narrow  sidewalks  wTere  filled 
with  acquaintances,  nearly  all  pulling  silently  at  their  cigarros , 
and  forming  a remarkable  contrast  to  a similar  scene  among 
Frenchmen,  where  the  din  would  have  been  deafening.  Here 
all  was  sedate  and  impassive.  There  were  eight  caballeros , 
each  mounted  on  a costly  andadora  worth  at  least  $150.  The 
trappings  were  silver-mounted,  and  some  of  the  bridles  and 
head-stalls  adorned  with  plates  of  virgin  silver  hammered  flat, 
and  fastened  with  untanned  leathern  thongs.  Each,  as  he 
mounted,  which  was  done  at  a single  step  and  with  the  utmost 
grace,  curvetted  about  the  street  a while,  to  show  the  mettle  of 
his  animal ; then,  drawing  his  serape  closely  about  his  form, 
but  with  one  hand  protruding  near  the  breast  to  allow  the  free 
use  of  the  lighted  cigarro , turned  with  a slight  inclination  and 
bow  toward  the  ladies,  and  joined  the  group  of  horsemen  near  by. 

No  people  ride  better  than  the  Hondurenos ; they  force  a 
mule  into  an  agreeable  and  even  graceful  gait,  when  a novice 
would  scarcely  be  able  to  make  the  beast  carry  him  without  ex- 
citing general  laughter.  Each  horseman  had  his  traveling  serv- 
ant, who,  mounted  on  a stout  macho,  followed  like  SanchoPanza 
after  his  lord.  Nearly  an  hour  was  spent  in  exchanging  sal- 
utations and  buen  viaje,  when,  at  the  word  of  a bright,  intelli- 
gent little  fellow,  who  appeared  to  be  the  leader,  they  moved 
slowly  out  of  the  town,  each  endeavoring  to  exhibit  some  pecul- 
iar trait  of  horsemanship,  in  which  the  glittering  sabre  or  silver- 
mounted  pistol-holsters  were  but  partially  concealed  in  the  folds 
of  the  serape.  To  dance  and  ride  well  is  part  of  the  Central 
American  education ; not  to  be  excellent  in  both  is  the  excep- 
tion to  the  rule. 

The  view  from  the  bridge  of  Tegucigalpa,  spanning  the  Rio 
Grande,  is  an  interesting  one  to  the  stranger.  Here  one  may 
see  a deal  of  life  in  Honduras.  Most  of  the  fruit  and  market- 


202 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ing  from  the  surrounding  mountains  and  the  low  plains  beyond 
Comayaguela  is  brought  into  the  city  over  this  bridge.  The 
work  is  a series  of  ten  arches,  surmounted  by  a causeway  four 
varas  in  width  and  a hundred  in  length.  It  is  constructed  of 
sandstone,  which  works  easily,  but  toughens  on  exposure  to  the 
air.  The  balustrade,  which  is  four  feet  high,  is  of  chiseled  stone. 
The  whole  structure  is  massive,  and  decidedly  Spanish  in  archi- 
tecture. It  is  forty  feet  above  the  river,  and  of  sufficient 
strength  to  admit  the  passage  of  a train  of  cars. 

There  is  generally  a fresh  breeze  from  the  mountains  up  the 
valley.  Below,  the  water  is  alive  with  bathers,  both  in  the 
morning  and  evening,  shouting  and  plunging  in  the  waves, 
some  leading  in  mules  to  bathe  or  to  drink,  or  swimming  their 
horses  into  the  deeper  parts,  and  diving  from  the  back  of  the 
animal.  Here  a crowd  of  boys  tumble  about  in  the  rapid  cur- 
rent like  Sandwich  Islanders ; there,  a decrepit  old  fellow, 
more  like  a baboon  in  shape  than  a human  being,  squatted  on  a 
rock,  deliberately  turns  the  pure  element  over  himself  with  a 
gourd.  For  half  a mile  below  the  bridge  the  eye  meets  with 
groups  of  bathers  of  both  sexes,  dashing  about  in  the  foam, 
their  joyous  shouts  blending  finely  with  the  roar  of  the  waters. 

The  rare  appearance  of  a foreigner  in  Tegucigalpa  makes  him 
rather  uncomfortably  a subject  of  speculation  and  remark  as  he 
passes  through  the  streets.  To  return  the  numerous  bows  and 
“ buenos  dias,  Caballero ,”  is,  to  an  American,  annoying,  and  at 
the  same  time  amusing.  Manners  which  would  elsewhere  be 
styled  impertinences  are  here  the  simple  customs  of  the  place, 
and  should  be  excused  as  such.  They  have  a way  of  stopping 
near  you  when  you  are  conversing  with  an  acquaintance,  listen- 
ing with  earnest  innocence  to  your  remarks.  On  a few  occa- 
sions, when  I attempted  to  stare  the  intruders  out  of  counte- 
nance, and  summoned  all  my  hauteur  for  the  occasion,  I found 
them  rather  flattered  by  the  notice,  and  perhaps  smiling  with  in- 
ward satisfaction.  “It  is  in  the  grain,”  thought  I,  and  thence- 
forward did  not  attempt  to  deprive  the  street  loungers  of  their 
time-honored  prerogative.  Secluded  from  the  world,  and  rarely 
hearing  news  from  abroad,  any  bit  of  information  is  considered 
by  them  fair  game  and  public  property. 

The  people,  barring  the  dignified  and  over-courteous  members 


GAMBLING  AND  BEGGING. 


203 


of  the  old  and  wealthy  families,  show  a strange  mixture  of  polite- 
ness, simplicity,  shrewdness,  and  effrontery,  and,  above  all,  an 
indescribable  passive  indifference  of  face,  which  puzzles  the  for- 
eigner, until,  by  long  use,  he  becomes  accustomed  to  it : stopping 
to  peep  into  your  window  to  scrutinize  your  toilet,  and,  encoun- 
tering your  eye  as  you  turn  round,  making  a bow  worthy  of  Ches- 
terfield ; putting  their  houses  and  all  in  them  at  your  “ disposi- 
tion,”  and  ready  to  drive  a Jew’s  bargain  with  you  the  next 
day,  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  the  chapter.  Like  all  Spanish  or 
mongrel-Spanish  people,  they  are  great  gamblers,  and,  while 
many  have  been  ruined  by  this  vice,  few  escape  from  its  influ- 
ence. This  is  bequeathed  them  by  their  ancestors ; and,  in  re- 
garding the  idle  habits  of  a large  portion  of  the  middle  classes, 
we  should  be  less  disposed  to  censure  from  the  fact  that,  the  fre- 
quent revolutions  preventing  or  destroying  all  attempts  at  ag- 
ricultural improvement,  and  no  public  amusements  presenting 
themselves,  it  is  quite  natural  to  fall  into  gaming  as  one  of  the 
few  pastimes  of  the  country.  I often  had  seedy-looking  gentle- 
men pointed  out  to  me  as  victims  to  this  fascination — men  who, 
in  former  times,  had  ranked  among  the  wealthiest  in  the  vicini- 
ty. It  is  due  to  Honduras  to  say  that  the  gambling  done  there 
is  not  a tithe  of  that  of  any  of  the  other  Central  American  states. 

In  one  of  the  principal  streets  is  a billiard  saloon,  very  neatly 
furnished,  but  I saw  no  instance  of  skill  or  science  displayed 
there. 

Beggars  are  common.  The  stranger  is  their  chief  point  of  at- 
tack. “Abr  el  amor  de  Dios,”  uttered  in  a lachrymose  tone, 
comes  to  your  ear  when  you  least  expect  it.  These  are  licensed 
to  pursue  their  calling  on  Saturday,  though  they  do  not  confine 
their  solicitations  to  that  day.  On  “ begging-day”  you  are  con- 
stantly besieged  by  the  halt,  maimed,  and  blind ; and  on  one  oc- 
casion I was  surprised  by  the  entrance  of  two  soldiers  leading  a 
manacled  prisoner,  who  had  been  allowed  this  method  of  im- 
proving Ins  condition.  His  guard  probably  divided  with  him 
the  day’s  earnings. 

Another  method  is  for  an  old  woman  to  enter  your  house  and 
seat  herself  in  the  corner,  after  quietly  placing  upon  the  table  a 
bundle  of  paper  cigars.  If  you  are  charitably  disposed,  you  ap- 
propriate the  cigars,  and  pay  the  silent  petitioner  whatever  you 


204 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


choose ; if  not,  having  gazed  five  or  ten  minutes  into  vacancy 
without  uttering  a word,  your  visitor  takes  up  her  goods  and  de- 
parts. Such  are  the  resorts  of  females  reduced  by  misfortune 
to  penury. 

Another  is  equally  ingenious,  but  prettier.  While  seated  un- 
der the  shade  of  the  trees  lining  the  jyaseo  in  Comayaguela,  and 
conversing  with  some  friends,  an  almost  naked  child  ran  to  me 
from  a neighboring  hut  with  a bunch  of  flowers.  Pleased  with 
the  gift,  I thanked  the  little  one,  but,  having  no  reales  about  me, 
could  not  reward  her,  and  so  thought  no  more  of  it.  On  the 

following  day,  walking  over  the  bridge  with  Senor  L , a 

fawning  fellow  approached  and  held  out  his  hand,  at  the  same 
time  bowing  repeatedly  and  mumbling  some  compliments.  He 

was  so  importunate  that  L somewhat  roughly  ordered  him 

away. 

The  man  stepped  aside,  and  remarked,  as  he  walked  reluc- 
tantly off,  that  he  was  the  father  of  the  child  who  had  present- 
ed the  flowers  the  day  before ! 

To  illustrate  the  little  value  set  upon  time  in  Plonduras : 
Some  days  after  my  arrival,  finding  it  necessary  to  have  some 
thin  clothing  made,  I sent  for  a tailor.  A fat,  smiling,  over-po- 
lite personage  entered,  hat  in  hand,  and  took  my  measure,  prom- 
ising the  articles  on  the  next  day.  He  was  more  than  my  match 
in  politeness,  and  backed,  bowing  and  smiling,  out  of  the  house. 
For  a week  I encountered  him  every  day  in  the  street,  and  once 
during  that  time  he  came  to  Senor  Losano’s  and  played  us  a 
number  of  brisk  tunes  on  the  guitar.  Ten  days  passed  away, 
and  there  was  always  some  excuse  for  the  non-appearance  of 
the  clothes.  As  one  has  first  to  buy  the  cloth  before  the  tailor 
takes  it  in  hand,  I began  to  feel  uneasy  as  to  the  original  invest- 
ment, and  ventured  to  consult  Don  Jose  Maria.  “ Oh,  that  is 
nothing,”  said  he  ; “I  have  often  waited  a month  for  a coat ; we 
never  hurry  in  Tegucigalpa : even  the  President  must  wait  the 
pleasure  of  the  shoemaker  and  tailor.”  On  the  fifteenth  day, 
and  when  I had  begun  to  despair,  I sent  my  boy  to  the  house 
of  Senor  Sastre,  who  promised  them  faithfully  for  the  morrow, 
and  by  again  sending  for  them  a week  afterward  I secured  my 
new  clothes.  These  were  the  last  I had  made  in  the  country, 
for  more  reasons  than  one. 


VISIT  TO  THE  CUARTEL. 


205 


Upon  one  occasion  I was  awakened  early  by  a message  from 
the  government  house,  with  an  invitation  to  join  a number  of 
gentlemen,  among  whom  was  the  President,  in  a jpasao  d ca- 
ballo.  We  returned  after  an  hour’s  ride  through  some  of  the 
most  interesting  of  the  environs.  During  this  jaunt  I had  an 
opportunity  of  observing  the  graceful  horsemanship  of  Cabanas. 
He  sits  his  horse  firmly  and  easily,  and  there  is  about  the  ven- 
erable soldier  an  air  of  calm  dignity,  which,  in  a less  secluded 
theatre  of  action,  would  attract  instant  notice.  We  entered  the 
cuartel  or  barracks,  where  the  governor  of  the  place  is  quar- 
tered. The  lounging  sentinel  assumed  an  upright  position,  and 
presented  arms  as  we  passed.  At  the  entrance  were  several 
rows  of  brightly-burnished  muskets,  of  English  make;  such 
were,  indeed,  nearly  all  the  arms  I saw  in  public  use  in  Central 
America.  All  had  flint  locks  and  bayonets. 

The  men  were  mostly  stout  fellows,  dressed  in  a simple  uni- 
form of  white  drilling,  with  red  stripes  on  the  legs  of  the  pan- 
taloons. All  were  barefooted.  Some  were  sleeping  on  the 
rough  wooden  benches  of  the  arena,  others  were  gambling, 
drinking,  or  buying  a sort  of  confectionery  of  sugar  and  cocoa- 
nut  from  an  old  woman  who  carried  it  about  in  a basket.  They 
arose  and  sprang  to  present  arms  as  the  old  general  entered. 
In  an  inner  room  we  saw  about  forty  muskets,  mostly  out  of  re- 
pair, a number  of  boxes  of  bullets,  an  old  field-piece,  with  a 
three-inch  calibre,  and  mounted  on  a carriage  with  wheels  like 
those  of  a heavy  dray.  We  were  shown,  with  great  pride,  a 
howitzer,  one  of  six  sold  to  the  government  by  the  Pail-road 
Company,  and  a few  rifles.  None  of  these  weapons  had  yet 
been  used  in  the  battles  of  the  country,  there  being  but  one  man 
in  the  army  who  understood  the  use  of  artillery,  and  he  had 
hitherto  been  reluctant  to  handle  the  howitzers,  owing  to  their 
great  bore,  and  the  consequent  danger  of  bursting ! On  re- 
turning to  the  house,  Cabanas  showed  me  a Sharp’s  rifle,  pre- 
sented to  him  by  Mr.  Edwards. 

Among  other  invitations  which  I received  was  one  to  attend 
the  examination  of  a student,  a candidate  for  Bachelorship  in 
La  Academia  IMeraria  de  Tegucigalpa,,  an  institution  organ- 
ized some  years  since  under  the  auspices  of  Cabanas.  There 
was  also  to  be  a ball  in  the  evening,  in  honor  of  the  graduate, 


206 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


at  the  house  of  his  father,  one  of  the  wealthiest  citizens  of  the 
place,  and  residing  in  the  Plaza  de  Paroquia.  The  name  of 
the  young  aspirant  was  Juan  Verancio  Lardizabal. 

At  five  o’clock,  in  company  with  a few  friends,  in  full  dress 
for  the  occasion,  I entered  the  University,  situated  in  the  Plaza 
de  Santo  Domingo,  where  were  already  assembled  numbers  of 
the  friends  of  the  family,  who  seemed  to  take  a lively  interest 
in  the  success  of  the  candidate.  The  throng,  which  was  of  all 
colors,  from  white  through  the  intermediate  shades  to  black, 
having  deposited  their  hats  without,  all  entered  the  examination- 
room — a hall  about  50  by  40,  filled  with  desks,  and  adorned 
with  historical  pictures.  At  the  upper  end  was  erected  a plat- 
form, on  which  were  chairs  and  tables,  the  last  covered  with 
red  cloth,  books,  and  writing  materials.  A silken  or  damask 
canopy  was  erected,  under  which  were  seated  President  Caba- 
nas, Cacho,  Minister  of  Finance,  and  the  Padres  Matute  and 
Reyes,  the  most  noted  literary  dignitaries  of  the  country. 
These  were  the  umpires  in  the  examination,  which  was  actually 
conducted  by  several  Bachelors  of  the  University,  whose  duty 
seemed  to  be  the  puzzling  of  the  candidate  with  abstruse  ques- 
tions in  metaphysics,  philosophy,  and  religion.  In  a sort  of 
pulpit  near  by  was  seated  Don  Maximo  Soto,  a young  lawyer 
of  great  promise,  supposed  to  be  the  “ champion”  of  the  candi- 
date, and  having  the  privilege  of  answering  for  him  the  more 
difficult  questions.  The  audience  occupied  the  sides  and  aisles 
of  the  room,  and  the  pupils  of  the  institution,  numbering  some 
thirty,  the  body.  Behind  the  President’s  chair  was  a coarse 
painting  representing  an  aspiring  student  rushing  up  the  steps 
of  the  Temple  of  Learning  and  Fame,  in  which  stood  Minerva 
holding  toward  him  a package  of  books  ! The  background  was 
somewhat  indistinct,  among  clouds  of  glory  and  rays  of  light 
striking  from  them  upon  the  head  of  the  goddess.  It  was  the 
work  of  a pupil  of  the  institution. 

The  examination  lasted  nearly  an  hour,  being  conducted  in 
turn  by  the  graduates.  When  the  Padre  Reyes  rang  his  bell 
it  signified  his  satisfaction,  and  that  the  next  graduate  could 
commence.  No  questions  were  asked  in  the  usual  branches  of 
a common  education.  If  the  student  was  properly  “ up”  in  his 
religious  notions,  he  was  not  subjected  to  many  puzzling  cate- 


THE  ACADEjMIA  LITERARLA. 


207 


gories.  At  this  academy  many  of  the  future  padres  of  Hondu- 
ras will  receive  their  education.  At  the  end  of  each  series  of 
questions  the  listeners  applauded,  and  finally,  tickets  having 
been  distributed  among  the  examiners,  they  deposited  them  in 
a box,  and,  the  returns  being  counted,  the  Padre  Reyes  declared 
the  young  man  a graduate  of  the  University,  amid  loud  “vivas” 
and  clapping  of  hands. 

This  academy  (occupying  a portion  of  the  old  convent  of  San 
Francisco,  built  in  1574)  was  established  in  1847.  It  is  sus- 
tained by  the  levying  of  a special  tax  and  by  private  contribu- 
tion. It  is  the  first,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a recently-estab- 
lished one  in  Comayagua,  the  only  one  in  the  republic.  The 
students  are  divided  into  six  classes.  It  is  under  the  direction 
of  the  Church,  which  monopolizes  the  guidance  of  educational 
matters.  Nearly  all  the  scholars  are  candidates  for  the  clergy. 

The  examination  over,  the  company  formed  into  procession 
and  walked  to  the  Plaza,  where,  at  the  door  of  Senor  Lardiza- 
bal,  we  found  that  gentleman  awaiting  our  arrival.  It  is  the 
custom  on  such  occasions  for  the  entertainer  to  stand  thus,  wel- 
coming his  guests  one  by  one  as  they  arrive.  I availed  myself 
of  my  note  of  introduction,  with  the  view  of  ascertaining  to  what 
extent  the  inhabitants  of  this  out-of-the-way  little  mountain 
city  had  carried  the  arts  of  social  parties.  I had  understood 
that  this  was  to  be  an  unusually  exclusive  affair,  and  a type  of 
elegant  manners  in  Tegucigalpa.  Entering  a spacious  corridor, 
we  were  ushered  into  the  sala  of  the  Lardizabals,  brilliantly 
lighted.  The  room  was  paved,  as  usual,  with  square  tiles,  and 
the  ceiling  and  walls  handsomely  painted,  like  those  of  the  better 
houses  in  Havana.  Wreaths  of  lace  and  colored  fringed  paper, 
like  those  seen  in  the  confectioners’  shops  in  New  York  during 
the  summer  months,  hung  around  the  room,  showing  the  handi- 
work of  the  young  ladies  of  the  house,  who  evidently  prided 
themselves  on  their  taste  in  these  matters.  On  the  left  side,  as 
we  entered,  were  sitting  some  two  dozen  ladies  of  the  aristocra- 
cy, most  of  them  handsome,  a few  beautiful,  and  all  apparently 
graceful. 

They  remained  seated  as  the  throng  of  visitors  entered,  but 
received  graciously  the  salutations  of  all.  T ran  the  gaunt- 

let with  me,  and  assisted  in  executing  the  rather  ridiculous 


208 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


formalities  demanded  by  the  occasion.  In  the  centre  of  the 
sala  was  a table  covered  with  confectionery,  wines,  chocolate, 
and  cool  drinks,  and  from  the  ceiling  was  suspended  a chan- 
delier, borrowed  especially  for  the  occasion  from  an  enterpris- 
ing neighbor,  who  had  ordered  it  from  Truxillo.  The  cere- 
monies of  presentation  over,  the  gentlemen  ranged  themselves 
opposite  the  ladies,  and  henceforth,  until  the  dancing,  there  was 
a rigid  separation  of  the  sexes.  Each  side  maintained  a spirit- 
ed conversation,  interspersed  with  loud  laughter,  the  only  com- 
munication between  the  two  sides  of  the  room  being  by  ocular 
telegraph : bright  eyes  and  fans  were  the  instruments  used. 
Cigars  were  freely  discussed,  both  cigarros  proper  and  jpuros, 
of  which  a tastefully-constructed  pyramid  was  built  upon  the 
table.  The  cigarros  or  cigarettos  of  paper  were  the  preference 
of  the  ladies,  who  held  them  daintily  between  the  prettiest  of 
fingers,  and  puffed  away,  gesticulating  with  the  greatest  anima- 
tion with  these  little  meteors,  and  not  once  was  the  romance  of 
the  thing  destroyed  by  an  instance  of  expectoration. 

After  half  an  hour  passed  in  this  manner,  the  master  of  the 
house,  acting  as  his  own  waiter  in  company,  with  several  mem- 
bers of  the  family,  handed  about  ready-filled  glasses  of  Cham- 
pagne, this  custom  being  always  preferred  to  the  certain  annoy- 
ance of  employing  servants,  whose  splay  feet  and  dishabille 
would  surely  destroy  all  elegance  that  might  attach  to  the 
party.  As  is  usual  on  Champagne  occasions,  the  popping  of 
corks  added  to  the  conversational  powers  of  the  party,  and  the 

room  was  speedily  in  a buzz.  Sehora  R z was  now  called 

on  by  numerous  admirers  for  a song.  An  overdressed,  paunchy 
gentleman  took  a guitar,  seated  himself  directly  before  her,  and, 
after  a few  preliminary  twangs,  the  music  commenced. 

The  singing  was  the  best  I had  yet  heard  in  the  country,  but 
was  made  up  of  that  drawling  tone  peculiar  to  the  voices  of  all 
Central  American  vocalists.  The  attempts  of  Spanish-Ameri- 
cans  at  the  sentimental  always  verges  upon  or  oversteps  the  line 
of  the  melancholy ; the  look,  tone,  all  is  decidedly  sorrowful. 
I never  yet  heard  a lively  song  in  Central  America  except 
among  the  country  people.  Whether  this  is  owing  to  the  de- 
pression consequent  upon  the  sad  state  of  political  affairs  I could 
never  decide.  There  lacks  cultivation  in  all  the  musical  at- 


A FASHIONABLE  PARTY. 


209 


tempts  I have  heard,  even  the  best.  Taste  is  not  wanting,  but 
the  style  is  almost  unpleasant  to  foreigners.  The  song  was 
loudly  applauded,  as  at  a public  concert,  every  body  shouting 
aloud  and  clapping  hands.  Meantime,  the  throng  of  “the  un- 
washed” peered  unrebuked  through  the  bars  of  the  street  win- 
dows, and  joined  in  the  applause  with  audible  characteristic  com- 
ments, such  as  “ Que  hermosa  /”  “ Que  voz  tan  jpura  /”  and  an 
occasional  yell  of  approbation.  This  standing  at  the  doors  and 
windows  is  the  acknowledged  prerogative  of  the  multitude. 

The  lady  of  General  Morazan  performed  a selection  from 
Linda  on  a Coulard  & Coulard  piano,  when,  after  the  applause 
had  subsided,  the  room  was  cleared  for  the  ball.  By  this  time 
the  restraints  had  begun  to  disappear  before  the  effects  of  Cham- 
pagne, and  the  Padre  Ugarte,  “ a little,  round,  fat,  oily  man  of 
God,”  having  seated  himself  at  the  piano,  the  whole  room  was 
quickly  engaged  in  that  amusement  which  to  the  Spanish  race 
is  more  than  second  nature. 

If  the  formalities  of  conversation  had  imparted  a stiffness  to 
the  scene  until  now,  certain  it  is  that  never  a merrier  throng 
mingled  in  the  whirl  of  the  dizzy  waltz.  It  is  rare  to  find  an 
indifferent  waltzer  among  the  ladies  of  Central  America.  They 
are  generally  easy  and  lithe  in  their  motions,  sailing  through  the 
dance  with  rather  a stately  though  animated  mien,  but  without 
the  slightest  approach  to  a hop.  The  men  danced  well,  with  few 
exceptions.  Cotillons  followed,  and,  indeed,  all  the  fashionable 
dances  but  polkas,  which  are  not  in  vogue  here. 

During  the  evening  I was  several  times  agreeably  surprised 
at  hearing  some  of  the  waltzes  of  the  day  brilliantly  performed 
by  various  ladies.  The  only  instructor  in  Tegucigalpa  is  a 
German,  who  is  fearfully  cherished  by  his  pupils.  At  midnight, 
the  ball  growing  tedious,  and  the  formalities  verging  into  rather 
affectionate  demonstrations,  owing  to  the  exciting  nature  of  the 
refreshments  upon  sundry  gay  gentlemen,  we  took  leave  of  our 
worthy  entertainer,  his  lady,  and  the  national  dignitaries  pres- 
ent. Most  of  the  elite  had  already  taken  their  departure.  A 
band  of  dusky  musicians  had  been  introduced  at  the  latter  part 
of  the  evening,  and  now,  as  the  night  was  a starry  one,  peram- 
bulated the  streets  until  dawn,  setting  all  the  dogs  of  the  city 
in  an  uproar  with  their  brazen  instruments. 

o 


210 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


A baptism  is  one  of  the  important  ceremonies  of  the  Church. 
.Several  occurred  while  I was  at  Tegucigalpa,  at  some  of  which 
I was  present.  The  padre  being  prepared  a day  or  two  before, 
the  church  is  decorated  under  his  directions,  and  on  the  baptis- 
mal day  the  mother  appears  surrounded  by  her  friends.  As 
they  enter  the  sacred  portals  the  choir  commences  a chant,  ac- 
companied by  clarionets,  bass  viols,  violins,  and  the  asthmatic 
organ.  A crowd  usually  gathers  about,  some  to  gaze  at  the 
procession,  others  to  congratulate  the  mother.  After  the  cere- 
monies, the  bells  of  the  church  are  beaten  by  the  campaneros 
for  the  space  of  five  minutes,  the  priests  raise  their  voices,  the 
band  of  musicians  redouble  their  exertions,  and  several  young- 
sters, who  have  been  impatiently  awaiting  the  signal,  fire  a 
double  string  of  bombas  stretched  across  the  entrance  to  the 
church.  As  the  flaming  train  delivers  the  report,  the  crowd 
rushes  forward,  shouting  and  kicking  recklessly  among  the 
cracking  torpedoes.  The  number  of  these  explosive  testimo- 
nials depends  upon  the  wealth  and  importance  of  the  family  of 
the  child.  The  remainder  of  the  day  is  devoted  to  feasting. 

The  Mint  at  Tegucigalpa  is  a fair  illustration  of  the  reign  of 
terror  which,  in  successive  administrations,  has  blighted  the 
prosperity  of  Honduras.  My  old  friend,  Don  Jose  Ferrari,  a 
naturalized  Italian,  is  the  director.  By  his  invitation  I visited 
the  establishment,  which  is  a portion  of  the  cuartel  building. 
The  machinery  is  simple  and  rude,  consisting  of  a perpendicu- 
lar screw,  on  the  lower  part  of  which  is  affixed  a stamp  of  the 
coin  intended  to  be  made.  A horizontal  bar  passes  through  the 
upper  part,  forming  two  levers,  or  handles,  like  capstan  bars. 
A couple  of  blacks  were  alternately  setting  up  and  unscrewing 
this  bit  of  mechanism,  a copper  coin,  of  the  value  of  a cent, 
dropping  out  at  each  heave.  The  rim  of  the  coin  is  made  by 
an  equally  simple  process.  The  room  was  bare,  dark,  and  si- 
lent; the  walls  shrouded  with  cobwebs  and  black  with  dirt. 
On  a table  near  the  coining  apparatus  were  heaped  up  several 
thousand  bright  pieces  of  copper  money,  in  which,  as  Don  Jose 
informed  me,  was  a considerable  percentage  of  silver,  the  exact 
amount  of  which  he  is  prohibited  from  divulging. 

In  an  adjoining  room  were  the  remnants  of  some  valuable 
coining  machinery,  of  English  manufacture,  made  under  the  di- 


MORAZAN  AND  THE  CURRENCY. 


211 


rection  of  Morazan.  Amici  the  turmoils  of  the  country,  the 
mule-train  bearing  it  to  Tegucigalpa  from  Omoa  was  waylaid 
by  the  opposite  party,  and  the  apparatus  thrown  upon  the  road, 
where  it  lay  for  months  subjected  to  the  weather.  Some  years 
afterward  it  was  brought  to  its  place  of  destination,  but  utterly 
ruined.  The  material  is  now  piled  up  in  inextricable  confu- 
sion ; some  of  the  copper  boilers  filled  with  grease,  and  others 
melted  into  coin.  Senor  F lamented  this,  but  wisely  re- 

frained from  denouncing  any  particular  persons  in  these  days 
of  revolutionary  changes.  “Ah!”  said  he,  “I  well  remember 
when  this  machinery  was  first  landed  at  Omoa:  you  might 
have  shaved  yourself  by  it,  it  was  so  beautifully  polished.”  It 
is  now  a mass  of  rusty  and  broken  iron,  piled  into  the  dark  cor- 
ners, covered  with  rubbish  and  cobwebs,  and  the  fit  home  of 
venomous  insects. 

It  was  the  intention  of  Morazan  to  have  coined  all  the  money 
necessary  for  the  country  with  this,  and  then  to  have  bought  up 
the  copper  currency,  which  at  that  time  had  not  accumulated  in 
such  quantities  as  now.  At  every  step  the  traveler  hears  of 
some  praiseworthy  act  of  Morazan.  With  his  murder  in  Costa 
Rica,  Central  America  has  been  gradually  but  surely  declining, 
soon  to  become  the  inheritance  of  strangers.  Part  of  this  ma- 
chinery is  yet  at  Omoa.  Senor  Ferrari  showed  us,  with  great 
pride,  a set  of  books  kept  by  himself  and  son,  which  he  stated 
were  the  first  ever  used  in  the  establishment.  About  $10,000 
in  copper  is  annually  coined  at  the  Mint  of  Tegucigalpa. 

While  here  I was  introduced  to  the  famous  Colonel  Rubi,  whose 
guerrilla  exploits  have  made  him  the  terror  of  the  Guatemal- 
tecos.  He  was  dressed  in  officer’s  uniform.  His  air  was  gen- 
tle, almost  sad,  but  the  mouth  wore  an  expression  of  determina- 
tion and  resolute  courage  not  often  seen  in  the  soft  features  of 
the  Central  American.  He  was  small  in  stature ; his  diminu- 
tive hands  and  feet  a lady  might  have  envied ; and,  what  is  rare 
in  this  country,  he  had  blue  eyes  and  light  hair.  There  is  also 
an  indescribable  look  of  cruelty  about  the  thin  lips.  Having 
failed  in  a revolution  originated  by  him  in  Guatemala,  he  escaped 
to  Honduras,  and,  enlisting  under  Cabanas,  was  regarded  by  the 
old  general  as  his  best  officer.  He  was  allowed  his  own  way, 
and,  with  a sort  of  roving  commission  on  land,  generally  made 


212 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


sudden  descents  on  the  unsuspecting  enemy,  from  which  he  in- 
variably came  off  victor.  His  name  is  a terror  on  the  borders 
of  Gracias.  His  adventures,  which  are  well  authenticated,  would 
make  an  interesting  volume.  It  is  said  that  Rubi  has  sworn 
the  death  of  Carrera,  President  of  Guatemala,  for  injuries  done 
his  family  some  years  since. 

Excellent  fish  are  sometimes  brought  into  the  market  of  Te- 
gucigalpa, taken  from  the  Rio  Grande  or  some  of  its  tributa- 
ries. Among  these  are  a species  of  brook  trout  (moj arras), 
dace,  and  a fish  resembling  the  perch,  called  the  “guapote.” 
About  three  leagues  northeast  of  the  city  is  an  artificial  lake 
four  hundred  yards  square,  constructed  by  the  Comayaguela  In- 
dians for  purposes  of  irrigation.  Some  fish  placed  by  them  in 
this  pond  so  increased  in  a few  years  that  several  citizens  of 
Tegucigalpa  went  there  for  angling  purposes.  A superstition 
existed  among  the  Indians  that  the  lake  and  its  denizens  were 
under  the  special  protection  of  their  patron  saint.  Much  against 
their  will,  the  fish  were  caught,  and  on  the  ensuing  summer  the 
country  was  afflicted  with  a severe  drought.  A deputation  was 
sent  to  Tegucigalpa,  demanding  that  double  the  number  of  fish 
should  be  restored,  and  a hundred  candles  burned  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  city,  to  appease  the  wrath  of  the  saint.  The  mon- 
ey was  raised  by  subscription,  and  the  lake  restocked  by  fish 
brought  from  the  Rio  Grande  amid  the  rejoicings  of  Los  Co- 
mayaguelas.  The  river  yields  a large  variety,  and  I determined 
on  one  occasion  to  try  my  fortunes. 

In  company  with  Santiago,  one  of  Don  Jose  Maria’s  servants, 
I repaired  to  a noted  fishing  spot  called  La  Piedra  Grande , a 
mile  below  the  city.  The  river  here  flows  between  two  high 
hills,  wooded  to  their  tops,  and,  gathering  itself  up  for  the  leap 
between  the  ledges  of  a narrow  pass,  throws  itself  noisily  down 
in  a succession  of  rapids  sparkling  in  snow-white  foam.  Some 
yards  below  this  is  a deep,  silent  space  of  water,  bearing  on  its 
surface  the  bubbles  created  by  the  turmoil  above.  The  depth 
is  some  thirty  feet,  and  is  called  by  the  natives  El  Pozo,  or  the 
hole.  The  operation  of  fishing  here  consists  merely  in  baiting 
and  throwing  the  hook  into  the  stream,  the  angler  seated  on  a 
rock  or  under  the  shade  of  some  waving  tree.  The  Waltonian 
art  is  little  known  here,  or  indeed  in  any  part  of  Central  Amer- 


AN  AMERICAN  VISITOR. 


213 


ica.  Until  recently,  the  inhabitants  of  Virgin  Bay,  Granada, 
and  Amapala  have  almost  deprived  themselves  of  the  luxury  of 
fresh  fish  rather  than  be  at  the  trouble  of  taking  them. 

A few  minutes’  walk  carried  us  beyond  the  barrios  of  the 
city,  and,  arriving  at  El  Pozo,  we  scrambled  out  upon  a ledge 
of  rocks  and  let  down  our  lines,  but  from  some  cause  our  efforts 
were  not  crowned  with  success.  Santiago  said  they  bit  better 
on  feast-days,  a stretcli  of  religious  imagination  I did  not  at- 
tempt to  combat.  After  an  hour’s  trial,  in  which  the  bait  was 
feloniously  abstracted  from  our  hooks  some  twenty  times,  there- 
by heightening  the  excitement,  we  concluded  that  the  saints  had 
interdicted  the  catching  of  fish  on  Sunday,  and,  reeling  up  our 
lines,  we  followed  the  stream  up  to  where  a miracle  is  said  to 
have  been  performed.  Here  the  Virgin  is  stated  to  have  depos- 
ited the  image  of  a saint,  to  whom  it  was  proposed  to  erect  a 
church. 

The  scenery  was  of  that  kind  constantly  occurring  to  delight 
and  charm  the  stranger.  A clean  sandy  beach  on  each  side, 
the  water  pure  and  clear,  the  banks  lined  with  the  aviate , gua- 
pinole,  guajiniquile , and  many  other  wide-spreading  trees,  a 
light  breeze  stealing  among  the  sunlit  foliage,  a wall  of  tropical 
green  bounding  the  view  on  every  side,  in  which  “many  a 
plumy  thing  sitting  within  the  stillness”  are  the  only  witnesses 
of  your  wanderings  ; then  the  sparkle  of  the  rapids  above,  just 
visible  through  the  leaves  ; the  solemn  clang  of  the  church 
bells,  wafted  faintly  down  the  ravine  from  the  city,  and  carrying 
the  imagination  to  the  New  England  village  meeting-house,  and 
the  well-remembered  peal  of  its  old  belfry  tenant.  Honduras 
abounds  in  such  quiet  resorts  for  the  angler. 

I was  one  day  seated  in  my  hammock,  conning  over  a late 
Gaceta  de  Guatemala , when  a loud  laugh,  entirely  the  reverse 
of  the  subdued  Central  American  snicker,  accompanied  by  a few 
oaths  in  indisputable  English,  showed  that  I was  not  the  only 
American  in  Tegucigalpa.  I had  hardly  time  to  step  to  the  door 
before  a hearty,  robust  gentleman  met  me  with  a sudden  grasp 
of  the  hand,  and  introduced  himself  as  Dr.  W . “Heav- 

ens!” said  I,  “another  doctor!  God  help  the  sick!”  He 
had  just  arrived  from  Comay agua  and  Omoa,  and  was  now  en 
route  for  Nicaragua.  We  were  friends  at  once,  and  began  com- 


214 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


paring  notes  in  our  own  language,  much  to  the  amusement  of 
Don  Jose  Maria,  who  turned  from  one  to  the  other  as  we  chat- 
ted, gravely  nodding  assent  to  our  remarks,  of  which  he  did  not 
understand  a word,  and  joining  sympathetically  in  our  laughter. 

The  doctor  had  been  some  months  in  the  country,  and,  on 
learning  of  my  intended  visit  to  Oiancho,  promised  to  make  the 
journey  with  me  if  I would  await  his  speedy  return  from  Nic- 
aragua. He  had  long  contemplated  a trip  to  the  Guayape 
region,  and  believed  it  one  of  the  richest  gold  countries  in  the 
world.  My  companion  was  one  of  those  roving  adventurers 
who,  striking  away  from  the  noise  of  cities,  love  to  penetrate 
unknown  and  distant  countries.  Thus  he  had  visited  most  of 
the  South  American  republics  with  no  other  view  than  a desire 
to  see  the  world,  paying  his  way  with  his  good  company  and 
box  of  “ remedios ,”  which,  in  the  hands  of  a foreigner,  is  always 
a passport  to  the  good  graces  of  these  people.  He  kept  me 
shaking  with  laughter  until  night,  when  he  took  his  departure, 
and  I never  saw  him  again.  He  started  before  dawn  on  the 
following  morning  for  Leon.  His  life  among  the  Dons  formed 
a rich  series  of  laughable  adventures,  in  which  women,  fighting, 
“ doctoring,”  dancing,  and  the  vicissitudes  of  sierra  life  were 
freely  intermingled.  It  is  difficult  to  penetrate  a country  too 
secluded  for  an  American  doctor,  peddler,  or  Daguerrean  artist, 
or  to  enter  a port,  however  retired,  in  which  an  American  trad- 
ing vessel  has  not  cast  anchor  before. 

Glass  windows  are  almost  unknown  in  Honduras,  and  the 
warmth  of  the  temperature  seems  to  render  their  use  unneces- 
sary. Their  place  is  somewhat  supplied  by  iron  bars  across  the 
opening.  The  casement,  formed  like  an  embrasure  or  loop-hole 
of  a fort,  and  beveling  inward,  is  commonly  paved  with  stone 
below,  the  upper  part  and  sides  plastered  and  whitewashed. 
The  tiled  floors,  when  swept  clean  and  washed,  impart  an  air  of 
coolness  to  the  dark  rooms,  and  on  entering,  after  a ride  through 
the  dust  and  heat,  you  find  yourself  inclosed  within  six  sides  of 
a square  stone  box.  The  lumber,  such  as  joist  and  boards, 
used  in  the  construction  of  the  house,  is  sawed  out  by  hand. 
The  pine  of  the  mountain  regions  is  straight-grained  and  works 
easily.  Closets,  cupboards,  and  commodious  affairs  of  this  kind 
are  seldom  used  in  dwelling-houses.  An  American  lady  visit- 


CENTRAL  AMERICAN  WOMEN. 


215 


ing  Honduras  would  find  this  among  the  many  deprivations; 
and  in  the  few,  but  spacious  rooms,  there  is  little  privacy  for 
any  body. 

The  excess  of  furniture  found  in  our  dwellings  would  be  out 
of  place  and  useless  in  Central  America.  The  bed-rooms  are, 
of  course,  on  the  ground  floor,  and  in  these  the  only  articles  are 
the  bedstead,  one  or  oftener  two  chairs,  and  sometimes  a wood- 
en “ guar  daropa”  or  clothes-press.  But  in  the  houses  of  the 
wealthier  families,  and  where  several  ladies  are  residing,  the 
rooms  throughout  are  somewhat  more  profusely  furnished. 
The  lack  of  servants  with  enough  taste  or  intelligence  to  keep 
furniture  in  order,  added  to  the  natural  indisposition  of  la  se- 
nora  herself  to  the  duties  of  housekeeping,  contribute  to  main- 
tain the  primitive  method  of  living.  I was  credibly  informed 
that  in  Honduras,  as  well  as  Nicaragua,  the  use  of  the  knife  and 
fork  has  not  been  many  years  adopted. 

I believe  that  every  traveler  in  Central  America  will  testify 
to  the  generous,  noble-hearted  character  of  the  women.  Hos- 
pitable, gentle,  and  patient,  upon  them  falls  a large  share  of 
the  work  done  in  the  five  states.  Some  one  has  remarked  that 
it  may  be  said  of  the  Central  American  women,  “ She  nursed, 
made  tortillas,  and  died.”  This,  of  course,  does  not  apply  to 
the  ladies  of  the  wealthy  families.  The  females  of  the  lower 
orders  are,  in  fact,  the  slaves  of  the  country.  In  Tegucigalpa 
the  water  used  for  all  the  purposes  of  life  is  brought  by  them 
from  the  river,  a distance  of  a hundred  feet  up  a steep  bank, 
whence  I have  often  observed  their  painful  progress  and  heavy 
breathing.  Excepting  in  politics  and  war,  which  have  ruined 
Central  America,  they  seem  to  carry  the  greater  part  of  the 
burdens  of  life,  but,  cheerful  and  happy,  they  are  ever  content- 
ed with  their  station.  I can  not  remember  hearing  a rough  or 
rude  word  from  any  woman  of  the  country.  Their  manner  is 
frank  and  light-hearted,  and  the  tired  stranger  is  readily  wel- 
comed to  their  family  board.  I always  made  a point,  on  my 
arrival  at  a house,  of  ingratiating  myself  with  its  mistress. 

The  passing  of  formal  compliments,  a relic  of  the  old  Span- 
iard, is  gradually  decreasing.  Every  body  has  some  idea  of  po- 
liteness, not  only  among  the  higher,  but  in  the  lowest  walks  of 
life.  The  dirtiest  rapscallion,  sin  zapatos , uses  his  courtliest 


216 


EXPL ORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


language  in  addressing  you,  and  seems  imbued  with  an  inborn 
sense  of  courtesy.  The  best-bred  gentlemen  I have  met  in  any 
country  I saw  among  the  educated  persons  of  Honduras.  Good- 
breeding, urbanity,  and  a desire  to  make  one’s  self  agreeable  to 
the  company  is  a leading  feature.  Wrangling  and  disputing  in 
society  is  almost  unknown ; and  if  an  addition  to  the  party  oc- 
curs, every  person  in  the  room  arises  to  receive  him. 

These  are  not  general  remarks  formed  from  a few  instances, 
but  will  apply  to  what  is  known  as  good  society  in  Honduras, 
or  at  least  in  Tegucigalpa,  and  renders  a reunion  of  gentlemen 
a scene  to  be  remembered,  and  even  favorably  contrasted  with 
the  turbulent  discussions  often  taking  place  in  what  is  termed 
polished  society  in  communities  who  doubtless  regard  their  trop- 
ical neighbors  of  Honduras  as  semi-civilized. 

Public  amusements  are  almost  unknown  in  Honduras.  The- 
atres, museums,  games,  excursions,  hunting-parties,  are  means 
of  entertainment  as  yet  only  known  by  hearsay.  The  funciones 
of  the  Church  create  an  occasional  religious  enthusiasm,  and 
then  the  patio  de  gallos  becomes  the  centre  of  attraction.  This 
pastime  amounts  to  a passion,  and  is  a source  of  revenue  to  the 
government.  The  privilege  of  establishing  a cockpit  during  cer- 
tain religious  festivals  is  let  out  by  the  authorities  to  the  high- 
est bidder,  who  having  made  the  requisite  preparations,  the  yard 
is  thrown  open  to  the  public,  and  a barefooted  soldier  being  sta- 
tioned as  door-keeper,  the  multitude  is  admitted  for  a charge  of 
two  copper  reals  a head  ; all  minors  being  excluded  by  law,  and 
the  master  of  the  cockpit  being  liable  to  a fine  for  every  person 
so  admitted. 

The  games  commence  at  the  Pascua  (December  25th),  and 
usually  continue  until  the  latter  part  of  March.  The  establish- 
ed regulations  are  posted  at  the  door-way,  and  a judge  appoint- 
ed viva  voce  to  decide  in  all  disputes.  As  high  as  $1000  is 
often  bet  upon  the  fights,  and  the  people  arrive  at  the  greatest 
excitement  during  these  exhibitions.  The  sport  is  not  consid- 
ered as  detracting  from  the  dignity  of  the  highest  officials,  and 
the  padres  in  clerical  garb  may  be  seen  venturing  a handful  of 
jiesos  on  one  of  two  feathered  combatants,  or  disputing  lustily 
on  the  merits  of  different  birds  with  the  most  boisterous  of  the 
crowd.  The  custom  has  descended  from  the  early  Spaniards, 


COMMISSIONERS. 


217 


and  no  urchin  in  our  own  country  ever  looked  forward  to  Thanks- 
giving or  Christmas  more  eagerly  than  do  the  Tegucigalpans 
count  the  days  to  “ tiernpo  de  gallos .” 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Tardy  Officials. — A Visit  to  a Hacienda  de  Cana. — Flour-mill. — Buildings.— 
Distillery.  — Sugar-mill. — Honduras  Cane. — Fruit. — Cassava. — Yuca. — Mak- 
ing Starch. — Sweet  Potato. — Chili  Peppers. — Contrayerba. — Productions  of 
the  Department. — A Dinner  at  El  Sitio. — El  Comojen. — El  Diario  de  Marina. 
— An  Evening  Scene. — Las  Tienderas. — Shops. — Trade.— Fashions. — Dresses. 
— Ladies  of  Honduras. — Female  Beauty. — Equestrianism. — Lack  of  Educa- 
tion.— Children’s  Dresses. — Political  Matters. — Jose  Francisco  Barrundia. — 
The  Death  Penalty. — Security  in  Traveling. 

Two  commissioners  were  appointed  to  take  into  consideration 
my  petition  to  the  government.  These  were  the  Padre  Reyes, 
a leading  politician  of  Honduras,  and  Senor  Vigil,  well  known 
as  an  adherent  of  the  Conservative  party.  My  documents  once 
in  their  hands,  I saw  nothing  more  of  them  for  many  days. 
Their  duties  in  relation  to  them  would  have  occupied  any  hut 
Spaniards  perhaps  two  hours.  I was  all  impatience  to  renew 
my  mountain  journey  toward  Jutecalpa.  For  several  days  I 
made  a point  of  visiting  both  of  these  worthies,  keeping  con- 
stantly on  their  track,  and  never  failing  to  remind  them  of  their 
duties.  Sometimes  I found  them  lounging  on  a shop  counter, 
gravely  conversing  with  the  tiendero,  or,  wrapped  in  cloaks, 
smoking  cigarros  and  gazing  at  vacancy,  silent  and  imperturb- 
able. Twice  I found  the  reverend  father  playing  monte  in  a 
small  gambling-house,  with  a greater  display  of  eagerness  in 
his  countenance  than  I had  thought  him  capable  of.  He  always 
returned  any  hint  I might  give  him  with  a stare  of  wonder  at 
such  indecent  haste  as  eminently  un-Spanish  and  out  of  the  or- 
dinary routine  of  business.  Every  day  convinced  me  that  time, 
so  invaluable  to  Americans,  is  here  considered  as  an  institution 
got  up  expressly  to  be  passed  as  easily  as  possible,  and  an  ar- 
ticle of  no  value.  It  is  never  taken  into  account  in  any  bargain 
or  calculation,  and  he  is  considered  as  displaying  a want  of  dip- 
lomatic dignity  who  attempts  to  outstrip  the  tardy  motions 
transmitted  from  “good  old  colony  times.” 


218 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Finding  it  useless  to  “ hurry  up”  my  commissioners,  and  re- 
solving to  float  with  the  tide  rather  than  struggle  against  it,  I 
passed  some  weeks  very  agreeably  visiting  the  silver  mines  in 
this  department,  and  riding,  at  the  invitation  of  proprietors,  to 
the  haciendas  in  the  vicinity. 

My  old  friend,  Sehor  Ferrari,  had  often  pressed  me  to  visit 
his  hacienda  de  caha,  known  as  El  Sitio,  about  two  leagues 
from  Tegucigalpa,  on  the  road  to  Cantaranos.  Late  one  even- 
ing he  called,  and  promised  to  send  his  favorite  macho  (a  beau- 
tiful animal  worth  $200)  for  me  on  the  following  morning.  At 
daylight  I mounted,  and  rode  to  the  house,  where  I found  the 
old  Don  ready  spurred  and  awaiting  my  arrival.  After  coffee 
we  set  off  toward  Santa  Lucia.  Don  Jose  took  the  lead  with 
his  andadora , and,  leaving  the  town,  led  the  way  through  a 
mountainous  district,  sometimes  crossing  fertile  valleys,  and  at 
others  along  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Chiquito,  taking  its  rise  in 
the  San  Juan  mountains  six  leagues  southeast  of  the  city. 
Some  old  chronicles  in  Tegucigalpa  speak  of  this  stream  as  “El 
Rio  de  Oro ,”  but  I could  not  learn  that  any  gold  had  been 
found  in  its  sands  to  warrant  the  name.  We  passed  numerous 
thrifty  ranchos,  devoted  mainly  to  the  cultivation  of  corn  and 
vegetables,  and  sugar-cane  was  growing  in  small  patches  on  two 
or  three  of  the  largest.  An  invigorating  breeze  fanned  our  faces 
as  we  passed  rapidly  up  the  valley.  On  the  blue  mountains 
surrounding  us  we  could  discern  among  the  clouds  square 
patches  of  cultivated  ground,  which  my  companion  said  were 
wheat-fields. 

We  soon  opened  a green-carpeted  little  gorge,  in  which  Don 
Jose  pointed  out  the  first  flour-mill  I had  seen  in  the  country. 
This  is  kept  in  active  operation  after  harvest-time.  It  is  car- 
ried by  the  waters  of  the  Chiquito,  which  here  tumbles  merrily 
along  to  where  it  joins  the  Rio  Grande  at  Tegucigalpa.  Cross- 
ing this  valley,  and  winding  along  the  edge  of  a precipitous  hill, 
my  companion  stopped  and  bade  me  listen  to  a distant  screech- 
ing and  shouting,  which  he  said  proceeded  from  the  muchachos 
on  his  hacienda , engaged  in  grinding  cane.  A moment  more, 
and  the  estate  itself  appeared  to  view.  The  old  Don  now  grew 
doubly  loquacious  respecting  his  possessions,  and,  withal,  I could 
not  help  thinking  he  was  justly  proud  of  them.  He  is  owner 


EL  SOTO. 


219 


of  eighty  caballarias,  and  the  plantation  extended  over  all  the 
arable  land  in  sight.  We  drew  up  at  the  end  of  an  avenue  of 
fruit-trees,  and  I was  introduced  to  the  mayor-domo,  the  eldest 
son  of  the  proprietor. 

A description  of  this  hacienda  will  answer  for  any  large  and 
well-ordered  one  in  the  state.  The  buildings,  which  are  all  of 
adobe,  consist  of  a dwelling-house  containing  six  rooms  on  the 
ground  floor,  four  smaller  ones  occupied  by  the  laborers,  two 
store-houses,  and  a distillery.  The  principal  dwelling  was  neat- 
ly tiled,  in  good  repair,  and  surrounded  by  a corridor  paved  with 
stone.  Every  thing  about  the  place  betokened  a thrifty,  wealthy 
owner.  The  distillery  contained  some  English  machinery, 
brought  on  mule-back  over  the  mountains  from  Fonseca  Bay. 
In  the  sugar-house  adjoining  was  a mill  made  in  the  country. 
It  consisted  of  a series  of  mahogany  rollers  revolving  reversely, 
between  which,  the  ends  of  the  cane  being  inserted,  the  bunches 
were  drawn  through  and  the  juice  pressed  out.  The  boilers 
were  of  copper.  The  method  of  sugar-making  practiced  here 
does  not  materially  differ  from  that  of  Cuba,  save  that  fewer 
modern  improvements  have  been  introduced.  The  majority  of 
manufactories,  however,  are  scarcely  better  than  the  rude  inven- 
tions of  the  early  settlers. 

Sugar-cane  grows  without  replanting  twenty  consecutive 
years  in  Honduras.  It  is  of  an  excellent  quality,  attains  a re- 
markable height,  and  is  capable  of  being  manufactured  into  the 
best  sugar  known.  No  refining  process  has  ever  yet  been  used 
in  the  state.  The  hacienda  was  completely  surrounded  with 
luxuriant  trees,  many  of  them  bearing  fruits  of  which  to  taste 
of  each  would  induce  satiety.  An  orange-grove  near  the  house 
was  literally  loaded  with  the  yellow  burden,  and  the  ground  be- 
neath covered  with  over-ripe  ones.  Here  were  also  a number 
of  peach-trees,  set  out  by  the  proprietor  as  an  experiment. 
Pine-apples,  sweet  limes,  cocoanuts,  plantains,  bananas,  figs . 
melons,  and  apricots  flourish  on  this,  as  well  as  other  haciendas 
in  the  sierra, 

A field  of  casava  was  growing  near  the  house,  and  forming, 
with  its  smooth,  oblong  leaves,  bristling  stalk,  and  bright-hued 
flowers,  a beautiful  ornament  in  a small  landscape.  It  reaches  a 
height  of  three  feet  in  the  uplands,  but  nearly  six  in  the  low  coun- 


220 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


try  of  San  Salvador  and  Nicaragua.  Some  plants  I afterward 
saw  growing  in  the  valley  of  Talanga,  in  Eastern  Honduras, 
were  above  five  feet  high.  There  are  several  wild  plants  closely 
resembling  the  casava,  some  of  whose  leaves  are  gathered  and 
dried  for  their  medicinal  properties.  These  are  like  those  of  the 
'papaya  ; the  seeds,  in  times  of  scarcity,  are  gathered  to  feed 
poultry ; but  the  casava  proper  is  the  root,  which  is  not  unlike 
a long,  thin  yam,  and,  when  boiled,  is  white,  tasteless,  and  nearly 
like  the  potato.  It  is  taken  from  the  ground  at  all  seasons. 
The  starch  of  the  country  is  obtained  exclusively  from  the  ca- 
sava and  yuca,  a species  of  the  same.  The  yuca,  however,  is  a 
larger  plant,  and  has  often  a stout  stalk  reaching  eight  or  ten 
feet  from  the  ground.  It  is  in  blossom  and  yields  fruit  through- 
out the  year.  The  root  is  dried,  and  tied  into  bundles  of  two 
or  three  pounds,  which  are  sold  in  all  the  market-places  at  a me- 
dio each.  Properly  dried,  it  may  be  preserved  for  years.  From 
this  plant  tapioca  is  made. 

The  starch  is  obtained  by  scraping  the  peeled  casava  into 
delicate  strings,  which  are  squeezed  by  hand  in  a stout  cloth. 
A glutinous  substance  oozes  out,  which,  mixed  with  water  and 
boiled  to  a proper  consistency,  becomes  a clear,  pearly  starch, 
equal  to  any  manufactured  article  I have  ever  seen.  That  pro- 
duced from  the  yuca  is  considered  the  best.  In  the  mountains, 
where  the  modern  improvements  have  not  found  their  way,  the 
root  is  simply  pounded,  jammed,  and  boiled,  the  starch  remain- 
ing in  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  In  the  larger  towns,  shirts  are 
returned  from  the  hands  of  the  lavadoras  as  neatly  starched  and 
ironed  as  the  most  fastidious  critic  could  desire ; but  the  meth- 
od of  washing,  which  consists  of  beating  the  saturated  clothes 
upon  rocks,  leaves  the  owner  of  the  articles  but  little  hope  of 
ever  again  seeing  his  garments  except  in  tatters,  and  bereft  of 
buttons.  The  yuca  plant  bears  red  and  white  flowers. 

Here  I also  observed  the  sweet  potato,  an  esculent  common 
in  all  parts  of  Central  America.  It,  however,  flourishes  best  in 
Nicaragua.  April  is  the  season  for  planting,  but,  where  the 
ground  can  be  irrigated,  it  may  be  raised  the  year  round.  The 
mode  of  culture  does  not  differ  from  that  of  the  Southern  United 
States.  The  yield  is  often  very  large ; the  potato  of  an  oval 
shape,  and  of  a whitish  appearance.  The  vines  grow  luxnri- 


NATURAL  PRODUCTIONS. 


221 


antly.  In  the  markets  of  the  principal  towns  sweet  potatoes 
are  worth  about  two  cents  a pound ; but  in  most  of  the  small 
villages,  especially  in  the  mountains,  are  not  to  be  obtained  at 
any  price.  The  scarcity  of  this,  as  well  as  of  many  other  pro- 
ductions of  the  country,  was  owing  to  the  ravages  of  the  grass- 
hoppers, which,  passing  in  incomputable  millions  over  the  coun- 
try during  my  visit,  had  destroyed  many  of  the  finest  fields. 

Chili  peppers  were  also  flourishing  in  dozens  of  localities 
about  El  Sitio.  They  grow  equally  well  in  a wild  state.  The 
Chili  Colorado , or  oblong  pod  of  the  red  pepper,  is  known  the 
world  over  to  Spaniards.  It  is  eaten  by  the  swarthy  mount- 
aineer of  Central  America  with  tortillas , as  cheese  is  in  the 
North.  I could  never  see  a brawny  fellow  munching  red  pep- 
pers and  tortillas  without  having  my  eyes  filled  with  involun- 
tary tears.  None  but  a Spanish  throat  could  ever  acquire  the 
knack  of  bolting  them.  This,  with  the  garlic,  is  an  ingredient 
in  nearly  every  dish.  The  round  or  sweet  pepper  is  also  found 
growing  wild  in  the  country,  but  is  not  so  generally  liked  as 
the  first.  A tough,  bitter  root,  known  there  as  the  Contrayerba, 
grows  in  the  neighborhood  of  El  Sitio.  Some  curious  medici- 
nal qualities  are  attributed  to  it,  for  which  purpose  it  is  sold  in 
the  Plaza  de  Mercado  of  Tegucigalpa  to  women.  The  speci- 
mens of  this  plant  now  in  New  York  are  pronounced  by  bota- 
nists the  Porstenia  of  Linnaeus. 

In  the  Department  of  Tegucigalpa  are  cultivated  nearly  all  of 
the  tropical  products,  and  in  the  highest  land  some  of  those  of 
the  temperate.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned  tobacco  of  ex- 
cellent quality,  rice,  sugar,  cacao,  a little  indigo,  all  the  tropical 
fruits,  corn,  potatoes,  and  coffee.  Juarros  mentions  Tegucigal- 
pa, or  Eastern  Honduras,  as  the  richest  section  of  Central  Amer- 
ica for  gold  and  silver. 

There  are  found  among  the  wild  productions,  in  small  quan- 
tities, vanilla,  gum  arabic,  fustic,  mastic,  ipecacuanha,  dragon’s 
blood,  ginger,  tamarinds,  and  the  India-rubber  tree.  As  these 
are  also  common  to  the  eastern  coast  of  Honduras,  in  the  great 
department  of  Olancho,  which  should  be  considered  as  a distinct 
subdivision  of  Central  America,  I shall  refer  to  them  and  other 
natural  products  in  my  description  of  that  country.  Olancho 
proper  is  equal  in  size  to  the  Republic  of  San  Salvador,  and, 


222 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


being  the  object  of  my  journey,  I paid  closer  attention  to  its  ag- 
ricultural and  mineral  resources  than  to  those  of  any  other  por- 
tion of  the  state  through  which  I passed. 

Senor  Ferrari  had  visited  Olancho  some  twelve  years  since, 
where  he  has  an  old  relative  living.  He  promised  me  a number 
of  letters  of  introduction,  and  laughed  at  the  warnings  of  Ca- 
banas. “ They  are  the  richest  and  most  hospitable  people  in 
the  country,”  said  the  old  man,  “ and  with  a letter  in  your  hand 
from  me  you  need  not  fear  to  pass  current  among  them ; only 
do  not  mix  too  freely  among  the  Indians.”  After  a long  ram- 
ble among  the  neighboring  hills,  during  which  my  entertaining 
host  loaded  me  with  information  about  the  country,  we  return- 
ed to  the  house,  where  I found  a sumptuous  dinner  prepared, 
and  graced  with  the  fair  presence  of  the  Don’s  four  daughters, 
who  had  followed  us  out  from  the  city  for  that  purpose.  The 
blending  of  the  flashing  Spanish  beauty  with  that  of  the  volup- 
tuous Italian,  all  heightened  by  the  flush  of  exercise,  and  set  off 
by  decidedly  neat  gray  riding-habits,  made  the  company  of  my 
hospitable  friends  an  agreeable  surprise. 

After  dinner  we  had  coffee,  cigars,  guitars,  and  an  animated 
conversation  on  female  fashions  in  North  America.  The  curios- 
ity, if  not  jealousy,  of  my  fair  companions  had  recently  been 
aroused  by  the  arrival  from  New  York  of  their  cousins,  the 
Senoritas  Dardano,  who  had  passed  through  Tegucigalpa  some 
two  months  since.  The  flutter  caused  by  their  advent,  and  the 
millinery  art,  now  for  the  first  time  realized  by  these  secluded 
belles,  had  not  yet  subsided.  I doubt  not  that  my  descriptions 
of  splendid  Broadway  have  caused  more  than  one  of  Tegucigal- 
pa’s beauties  to  sigh  for  the  establishment  of  rail-roads  and 
steamboats  between  Honduras  and  “ el  Norte.'1'’ 

Nearly  every  building  in  Honduras  is  subject  to  the  destruc- 
tive agency  of  a little  boring  insect  called  the  Comojen.  They 
enter  at  the  lower  part  of  house  timbers,  and  eat  a perfectly 
round  hole  to  the  top,  whence  they  return  by  a parallel  route, 
continuing  their  operation  until  every  beam,  rafter,  and  joist  in 
the  building  is  honeycombed.  Cedar  is  particularly  liable  to 
these  attacks.  At  El  Sitio , though  the  wood,  to  all  outward 
appearance,  was  sound,  Don  Jose  showed  me  its  true  condition 
by  taking  a pole  and  striking  vigorously  upon  the  rafters. 


DECAYING  OF  TIMBER. 


223 


They  crushed  in  like  the  shell  of  a mummy,  and  flew  into  little 
clouds  of  dust,  from  which  the  ladies  made  a rapid  retreat  out 
of  doors.  There  are  but  few  kinds  of  pine  wood  in  the  country 
which  are  not  subject  to  the  attacks  of  the  comojen , and  it  is  a 
singular  coincidence  that  any  but  these  two  woods  will  become 
worm-eaten  and  decay  in  water  within  twelve  months.  An  in- 
stance was  related  to  me  by  an  English  gentleman,  formerly  en- 
gaged in  mining  in  Yuscaran,  near  the  boundary  of  Nicaragua. 
A large  pine-tree  was  cut  for  a shaft  for  a crushing  mill,  and 
carried  a distance  of  two  miles  to  the  works.  Before  the  tree 
was  felled,  a number  of  the  old  natives  warned  them  against  cut- 
ting that  class  of  pine,  predicting  its  speedy  decay.  The  for- 
eigners, considering  this  a silly  superstition,  gave  it  no  attention, 
and  after  eight  months’  use  the  shaft,  which  was  costly  and  ap- 
parently sound,  became  perforated  with  small  round  holes,  and 
finally  unfit  for  use.  Similar  “ superstitions”  exist  as  to  cut- 
ting trees  during  the  full  of  the  moon.  No  one  in  Honduras 
cuts  a tree  for  building  purposes  except  at  that  time  and  the 
week  following.  Insects  attack  timber  cut  before  the  full  moon, 
while  it  is  known  by  experience  they  will  not  touch  that  felled 
a week  after.  These  facts  may  be  useful  to  future  settlers  in 
Honduras. 

In  an  old  clothes-press  in  the  sala  I found  a file  of  El  Dia- 
rio  de  Marina  of  Havana.  This  is  the  only  foreign  newspa- 
per regularly  reaching  the  interior  of  the  state.  As  its  rabid 
and  anti-American  leaders  have  been  repeatedly  transcribed  and 
spread  before  the  people  since  the  Lopez  expedition,  any  respect 
that  may  yet  remain  in  certain  sections  of  Honduras  for  the 
United  States  is  not  owing  to  “ El  Diario  de  Marina .” 

After  swinging  in  lazy  hammocks,  smoking  corn-husk  cigars, 
drinking  vino  de  coyol  and  tiste,  and  gathering  all  the  fruit  it 
was  reasonable  to  suppose  could  be  eaten  in  a week,  we  ordered 
our  mules,  and  bade  adieu  to  El  Sitio.  We  rode  slowly  and 
easily  toward  the  old  city,  the  ladies  chatting  gayly  on  the 
events  of  the  day,  and  laughing  with  the  ease  of  youthful  and 
unburdened  hearts.  Beautiful  El  Sitio  ! the  quiet  shades  of  its 
lawn  of  guanacastes  and  ceibas , the  fragrance  of  its  orange  and 
citron  groves,  the  sparkle  of  its  brawling  brook,  tumbling 
among  the  leafy  thickets,  its  beautiful  birds,  and  the  dreamy 


224 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


silence  in  which,  nature  seems  here  enthroned,  will  long  haunt 
my  memory. 

We  reached  the  summit  of  the  hills  overlooking  the  city  just 
in  time  to  catch  the  last  rays  of  sunset,  bathing  the  turrets  of 
La  Paroquia  in  purple  light,  and  illumining  the  houses  in  the 
valley  beneath.  The  faint  tones  of  the  old  Spanish  bells  float- 
ed toward  us  in  the  evening  breeze.  They  have  summoned  the 
devout  to  prayers  since  the  seventeenth  century,  when  the  fol- 
lowers of  Alvarado  lifted  their  plumed  hats  and  listened  to  the 
lofty  Te  Deum.  Gradually  the  twilight  deepened  over  the 
landscape ; the  crimson  clouds,  casting  their  reflected  hues  over 
the  mountains,  grew  dim  before  the  gray  mantle  of  evening; 
and,  urging  forward  our  animals,  we  were  soon  ambling  through 
the  paved  streets  of  the  city,  and  exchanging  “ buenas  noches ” 
with  the  groups  at  the  doorways. 

The  stores  in  the  large  towns  of  Honduras  are  stocked  with 
nearly  the  same  class  of  goods.  A description  of  one,  with  a 
few  alterations  regarding  size  and  the  disposition  of  articles, 
would  answer  for  the  whole.  Rows  of  shelves  surround  the 
shop,  in  the  centre  of  which,  behind  the  counter,  the  master,  or 
oftener  the  mistress,  of  the  establishment  sits  enthroned  ; if  the 
latter,  her  head  bent  down  over  her  sewing,  and  so  seated  as  to 
command  a view  of  her  little  collection  of  goods,  and  glance 
into  the  inner  apartments  at  the  same  time.  It  should  be  re- 
membered that  there  are  few  of  the  principal  housekeepers  in 
the  large  towns  of  the  republic  who  do  not  help  to  “ make  two 
ends  meet”  by  selling  from  a tienda , in  the  most  conspicuous 
part  of  the  house,  the  various  domestic  articles  demanded  by  the 
little  world  around  them.  Very  few  ladies  consider  themselves 
too  genteel  to  act  as  tienderas,  and,  indeed,  since  the  decline  of 
the  commerce  of  the  country,  many  respectable  families  have 
been  reduced  to  this  means  to  preserve  their  station  in  society, 
and  even  to  live.  Some  of  the  tiendas,  presided  over  by  the 
beauties  of  the  city,  are  the  resort  of  the  gallants  of  Tegucigal- 
pa, who  may  be  seen  paying  their  respects  to  the  divinity  with- 
in, and  showing  more  substantial  evidences  of  their  appreciation 
by  the  purchase  of  trifles,  more,  perhaps,  to  see  how  my  lady 
will  roll  up  a ribbon  with  her  taper  fingers  than  for  the  intrinsic 
value  of  the  article.  Far  in  the  interior  of  this  almost  unknown 


SHOPS  IN  TEGUCIGALPA. 


225 


country,  in  a city  hitherto  neglected  by  geographers  and  map- 
makers,  the  nicely-calculated  flirtation  and  piquant  affairs  of 
gallantry  are  conducted  with  all  the  gusto  and  finesse  to  be 
looked  for  in  the  daintiest  circles  of  fashionable  life  in  the  full 
blaze  of  rout  or  watering-place. 

The  goods  displayed  for  sale  are  neither  costly  nor  valuable, 
consisting  mostly  of  wearing  apparel,  such  as  cotton  cloths,  os- 
nabiu'gs,  sheeting,  drilling,  shoes,  and  the  usual  array  of  manu- 
factured articles  found  in  dry-goods  stores.  It  is  rare  to  meet 
with  any  shops  devoted  to  the  sale  of  one  class  of  articles. 
Nearly  all  combine  the  goods  of  the  apothecary,  dry-goods  deal- 
er, grocer,  hatter,  shoe  dealer,  saddler,  bookseller,  confectioner, 
and  stationer,  but  with  extremely  limited  stocks  of  each  of  the 
trades  thus  represented.  Most  of  these  enter  the  country  via 
Amapala,  or  La  Union,  San  Salvador,  in  European  vessels,  the 
English  always  predominating.  Occasionally  in  the  stores  I 
noticed  American  articles,  such  as  patent  leather  shoes  and 
boots,  a few  bits  of  household  ware,  Lowell  manufactured  goods, 
soap,  candles,  pickles,  and  liquors ; but  these  were  very  rare, 
England  appearing  to  rule  the  trade  in  cutlery,  manufactured 
goods,  calicoes,  ale,  cloths,  wooden  and  tin  ware ; the  French 
those  of  vin  ordinaire , Cognac,  silks,  prints,  calico  dress  pat- 
terns, cheese,  mustard,  gloves,  and  cassimeres ; the  Italians  such 
as  olives,  sweet  oil,  sardines,  macaroni,  vermicelli,  green  cheese, 
sausages,  and  some  silk  goods.  Havana  and  Balize  also  help 
to  supply  Honduras,  and,  indeed,  all  Central  America,  with  a 
variety  of  articles.  The  former  place  and  Guatemala  send 
nearly  all  the  books  brought  into  the  country.  Balize  is  the 
emporium  of  trade  on  the  Atlantic  border  of  Central  America, 
as  La  Union  and  Amapala  are  on  the  Pacific. 

The  United  States,  with  their  extensive  commerce  and  great 
manufacturing  interests,  appear  as  yet  to  have  cared  but  little 
to  pry  into  this  market,  though  a small  amount  of  goods  find 
their  way  into  the  interior  from  Truxillo.  That  port  being  the 
point  from  which  Yoro  and  Olancho  are  supplied,  and  its  trade 
being  nearly  confined  to  Boston  and  New  York,  the  Olancha- 
nos  are  the  principal  consumers  of  American  goods.  Honduras, 
with  her  350,000  inhabitants,  is  a constantly  consuming  but 
slightly  producing  country,  and  a successful  competition  might 

P 


226 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


easily  be  established  at  any  prominent  sea-port  on  either  the  At- 
lantic or  Pacific  coast.  A few  trading  vessels  have  reached 
Tigre  Island  from  California,  freighted  with  part  of  the  overplus 
of  that  market,  and  some  excellent  speculations  are  said  to  have 
been  made  in  this  way,  but  as  yet  European  vessels  nearly  mo- 
nopolize the  trade  on  both  sides  the  continent.  The  Costa  Rica 
coffee  and  sugar  trade  is  now  being  turned  from  its  old  chan- 
nels toward  California,  and  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  the 
entire  traffic  of  the  Pacific  coast  of  Central  America  will  be  es- 
sentially conducted  between  that  country  and  California. 

Within  the  last  five  years,  as  the  Central  American  States 
have  become  more  widely  known,  commercial  monopolies  have 
decreased.  A better  quality  of  goods  is  demanded  and  con- 
sumed. All  classes  are  dressed  better  than  formerly,  and  Amer- 
ican fashions  are  being  introduced.  Among  the  women,  costlier 
articles  of  wearing  apparel  are  becoming  fashionable.  The  dress 
of  the  women  of  Honduras  of  the  lower  classes  is  of  coarse  and 
plain  material,  such  as  ginghams  and  calicoes  ; but  the  dress  of 
the  lady  par  excellence  is  a different  affair,  and  those  to  whom 
I was  introduced  were  often  arrayed  with  a degree  of  coquet- 
tishness fully  up  to  the  mark  of  a foreigner’s  imagination  of  a 
“ dark-eyed  senorita.”  The  year  round,  pure  white  dresses, 
or  those  of  a light  pink  or  blue  gauzy  stuff,  are  the  ruling  style. 
Instances  of  bad  taste  are  rare.  The  fashions  are  often  brought 
from  Havana. 

The  figures  of  the  ladies,  as  I noticed  them  at  dances  and  on 
promenades,  were  rather  tall,  but  straight,  and  all  the  move- 
ments elegant  and  modest.  There  were  few  exceptions  to  this 
rule  in  the  parties  to  which  I was  invited.  Besides  the  more- 
nas  with  raven  hair,  who  decidedly  prevail  as  to  numbers,  you 
sometimes  meet  a fair  complexion,  light  hair,  blue  eyes,  and 
ruddy  cheeks,  especially  in  the  highlands.  The  delicate  pale- 
ness usually  associated  with  Spanish  tropical  beauty  is  oftener 
encountered ; and  such  complexions,  aided  by  clear  white  fore- 
heads, large  black  or  hazel  eyes,  rather  thin  lips,  and  fine  teeth, 
are  no  inconsiderable  attractions  when  joined,  as  they  frequent- 
ly are,  to  a vivacious,  joyous  disposition.  The  “ languishing1' 
style  mostly  accompanies  the  dark  complexions,  and  to  a North 
American,  used  to  the  sprightliness  of  his  countrywomen,  this 


THE  FASHIONS. 


227 


gradually  becomes  tiresome.  The  dreamy  beauties  ot  this  de- 
licious clime  are  admirable  subjects  for  the  novelist  or  painter, 
but  one  looks  in  vain  for  the  attractions  of  the  cultivated  lady 
of  our  own  favored  land.  They  generally  unite  the  qualities 
of  gentleness,  good-humor,  and  sincerity — pleasing  traits  in  all 
countries. 

Pretty  hands  and  arms  are  too  common  to  be  regarded  as 
particular  marks  of  elegance.  On  several  occasions,  however,  I 
noticed  that  ladies  took  extra  pains  to  display  these  little  ad- 
vantages. The  hair  is  oftener  worn  plaited  and  put  up  behind 
the  head  than  in  any  other  way.  Ringlets  are  seldom  seen. 
At  parties  or  balls  the  dress  is  usually  white,  and  very  thin. 
Little  jewelry  is  worn.  In  the  street  the  mantilla  is  always 
used,  and  of  la tz  parasols  have  been  introduced.  Ladies  are  sel- 
dom seen  abroad  except  at  morning  and  toward  sunset,  and 
they  are  rarely  accompanied  by  gentlemen. 

Many  are  graceful,  fearless  horsewomen.  The  side-saddle  is 
manufactured  in  Guatemala,  but  a few  are  now  being  imported 
from  England.  The  fashion  of  riding  on  the  right  side  still  pre- 
vails. The  riding-habit  does  not  differ  from  those  of  the  United 
States  ; sometimes  the  bottom  of  the  dress  is  loaded  with  small 
silver  coins  fastened  through  holes  in  the  skirt.  A hat  (an 
out-and-out  masculine  one)  is  worn,  with  a heavy  black  veil. 
Gloves  fringed  around  the  cuffs  with  silver,  and  a small  Italian 
riding- whip,  complete  the  attire.  Toward  the  breaking  up  of 
the  rainy  season,  before  the  dust  of  the  dry  months  has  dimmed 
the  sparkle  of  the  green  foliage,  is  the  favorite  time  for  equestri- 
an parties.  Then  the  mountain  streams  are  leaping  from  crag 
to  valley,  the  roads  are  good,  and  the  senoritas  seldom  fail  to 
take  advantage  of  these  propitious  circumstances. 

In  the  general  lack  of  education  the  women  are  taught  but 
little,  and  when  the  young  lady  can  play  the  guitar  or  piano, 
waltz,  and  appear  a la  mode  in  society,  she  is  served  up  whole 
at  the  altar  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  her  matronly  duties  com- 
mence. The  few  exceptions  where  young  ladies  have  been  sent 
to  the  United  States  to  be  educated  are  rare.  Such  are  looked 
upon  by  their  companions  as  prodigies  of  learning.  With  few 
or  none  of  the  advantages  offered  in  more  enlightened  countries, 
the  Central  American  women  never  fail  to  interest  the  traveler 


228 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


by  the  peculiar  gentleness  and  dignity  of  their  demeanor,  as  well 
as  their  latent  talent  and  susceptibility  of  cutivation. 

The  usual  dress  of  a citizen  of  the  United  States  -will  answer 
for  that  of  a gentleman  of  Honduras.  But  the  remnants  of 
fashions  long  since  exploded  sometimes  appear  to  excite  a smile 
at  the  attempts  of  the  Beau  Brummels  of  the  larger  towns — 
styles  which,  emanating  at  Paris,  and  filtering  through  the 
United  States  and  Havana,  eventually  find  their  way  into  the 
interior  of  Honduras  : English  stove-pipe  hats,  leathern  panta- 
loon straps,  old-fashioned  swallow-tailed  coats  with  high  collars, 
and  other  items,  showing  what  market  the  old-clothes  dealers 
of  Europe  find  for  their  superannuated  goods.  The  men  are  far 
behind  the  women  in  dress.  The  old  Spanish  emblem  of  dig- 
nity— the  ample  blue  cloak — still  retains  its  hold  upon  the  af- 
fections of  the  antiquated  Dons,  and  even  children  are  seen  en- 
veloped in  folds  of  blue  cloth.  One  of  the  first  things  to  attract 
the  notice  of  a stranger  in  any  of  the  larger  towns  of  Honduras 
is  the  “ little  old  man  or  woman”  look  of  the  children.  Boys 
of  five  or  six  years  of  age  strut  stiffly  along,  with  a black  hat, 
straight  collar  and  cravat,  cloak  and  walking-stick — in  fact,  with 
the  complete  habiliments  of  full-grown  men.  The  precocious 
features  of  the  little  fellow  detract  somewhat  from  the  absurdity 
of  the  dress.  Girls  of  the  same  age  are  seen  with  luxuriant 
hair,  long  dresses,  and  the  ornaments  common  to  young  ladies. 
One  little  creature  who  was  frequently  in  the  house  of  Don 
Jose  wore  immense  ear-rings,  a necklace,  finger-rings,  and  had 
her  hair  braided  and  tastefully  arranged,  more  like  a bride  than 
a child.  The  dress  adds  greatly  to  the  naturally  advanced  look 
of  the  children.  All  women  in  Central  America  grow  prema- 
turely old.  The  same  would  probably  take  place  with  Ameri- 
can women  living  there. 

For  some  years  after  the  independence  very  eloquent  speeches 
are  said  to  have  been  made  in  the  Legislature  of  Honduras. 
But  among  the  Liberals,  it  is  believed  that,  the  great  lights  of 
the  country  having  died,  there  remain  none  to  maintain  the  for- 
mer oratorical  power.  Barrundia,  the  last  of  the  old  revolution- 
ary stock,  has  passed  away,  and  it  is  affirmed  that  none  remain 
capable  of  filling  his  place. 

With  the  adoption  of  the  present  Constitution  capital  punish- 


THE  DEATH  PENALTY. 


229 


raent  was  abolished  in  Honduras.  The  severest  penalty  which 
can  now  be  inflicted  is  five  hundred  blows  for  one  offense.  Ac- 
cording to  the  severity  with  which  this  is  applied,  the  punish- 
ment is  to  be  dreaded.  The  robber  Umansor,  who  recently  es- 
caped from  the  castle  at  Omoa,  and  was  guilty,  it  is  said,  of 
eight  murders,  had  received  four  hundred  blows  on  two  occa- 
sions, but  had  recovered.  Two  hundred  blows  often  end  the 
sufferings  of  the  culprit  when  applied  with  that  design.  It’  it  is 
the  intention  of  the  government  that  the  offender  shall  die,  the 
infliction  is  administered  in  such  a way  that  the  prisoner  has 
ceased  to  breathe  before  the  punishment  is  ended. 

The  arms  of  the  man  are  tied  around  a tree  of  just  sufficient 
circumference  to  admit  of  the  wrists  meeting  and  being  bound 
firmly  together  on  the  opposite  side.  The  feet  are  secured  by 
stout  cords  near  the  root.  The  culprit  is  then  stripped  to  the 
waist.  The  instrument  of  punishment  consists  of  heavy,  lithe 
rods  of  some  tough  tree.  These  are  placed  in  the  hands  of  the 
executioner,  also  stripped  to  the  waist,  who,  standing  some  dis- 
tance from  the  prisoner,  places  himself  in  such  position  as  to 
throw  his  full  strength  into  the  blows.  The  signal  being  given, 
the  withe,  which  is  heavy  and  of  the  consistency  of  India-rub- 
ber, descends  upon  the  back  of  the  condemned.  The  effect  is 
scarcely  less  terrible  than  that  described  as  following  the  inflic- 
tion of  the  Russian  knout.  Blow  after  blow  is  delivered,  until 
the  sufferer,  who  at  first  screams  with  agony  and  tugs  at  the 
thongs  which  bind  him,  relapses  into  silence.  His  back  becomes 
a mass  of  clotted  gore,  and  life  is  often  extinct  before  the  full 
sentence  has  been  complied  with.  The  whipping  is  performed 
by  two  or  three  executioners,  who  relieve  each  other  as  they 
become  exhausted  with  the  labor. 

While  on  the  road  from  Tegucigalpa,  I heard  of  an  instance 
where  a servant  had  robbed  his  master  in  the  Department  of 
Comayagua.  He  attacked  him  when  sleeping,  cut  his  body  to 
pieces  with  his  machete,  and,  taking  his  money  and  several 
mules,  escaped  in  the  direction  of  Omoa.  He  was  pursued  by  a 
party  of  soldiers,  who,  on  capturing  him,  by  the  directions  of  the 
officer  in  command,  gave  him  three  hundred  blows.  He  did  not 
live  to  undergo  the  full  sentence.  But  instances  of  brutal  mur- 
der like  this  are  extremely  rare.  In  no  part  of  the  world  are 


230 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


property  and  life  more  secure  than  in  Honduras,  nor  are  there 
any  people  on  the  continent  more  peaceable  or  hospitable  than 
in  these  mountain  regions. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  great  Eruption  of  Consiguina. — Phenomena  in  the  interior  of  Honduras. — 
Central  American  Volcanoes. — Eruption  of  “San  Miguel.” — “Minerales  de 
Plata.” — Preparations  for  Olancho. — The  Guayape  Gold  Region:  its  Access- 
ibility; Obscurity.  — Fabulous  Accounts.  — Favorable  Results  with  the  Gov- 
ernment.— Ho ! for  the  Guayape. — Leaving  Town. — My  Mule-train. — Catch- 
ing Soldiers. — Rio  Abajo. — Dr.  Don  Guillermo  again. — Cofradilla. — The  Road 
to  Talanga. — A Eeast  in  Talanga. — St.  James  intoxicated. — Las  Cuevas. — 
An  Allspice-tree. 

Among  the  many  interesting  narrations  which  I obtained  from 
my  friend  Losano  was  his  account  of  the  famous  eruption  of  the 
great  volcano  of  Consiguina  in  1835.  Throughout  this  section 
of  the  country,  though  many  leagues  from  the  mountain,  the  si- 
erras trembled  to  their  foundations  ; occasional  shocks  of  earth- 
quakes were  felt ; the  people  became  suddenly  nauseated,  while 
the  air  filled  with  fine  ashes  so  as  to  partially  obscure  the  sun, 
and  the  distant  bellowings  and  explosions  of  the  mountain  de- 
noted some  terrible  eruption  transpiring  in  the  great  range  of 
volcanoes  skirting  the  Pacific  coast.  Many  believed  the  Judg- 
ment day  had  come.  The  shocks,  however,  were  not  felt  in  the 
highlands  of  Honduras  as  in  other  parts  of  Central  America. 
Passing  the  mountain  some  months  before,  I was  shown  where 
a river  once  flowed  through  a fertile  country  into  the  Bay  of 
Fonseca,  but  now,  and  ever  since  the  eruption,  bare  and  deso- 
late, from  the  vast  heaps  of  ashes  thrown  from  the  crater.  The 
explosions  were  heard  across  the  continent,  and  ashes  Avere  sent 
to  a distance  of  several  hundred  miles  ! 

Senor  Losano  states  that  for  three  days  the  air  Avas  filled 
with  an  impalpable  dust,  entering  all  the  cracks  and  chinks  of 
the  houses,  and  producing  a suffocating  sensation.  At  three 
o’clock  P.M.  on  the  20th,  21st,  and  22d  of  January,  1835, 
darkness  enveloped  the  whole  of  interior  Honduras.  Lights 
placed  upon  tables  at  each  end  of  a room  could  barely  be  dis- 
cerned by  a person  standing  midway  between  them.  Meals 


GREAT  ERUPTION  OF  CONSIGUINA. 


231 


were  taken  by  candle-light.  The  birds,  affrighted  by  the  fear- 
ful darkness,  flew  in  terror  to  the  towns,  dashing  themselves 
against  the  houses  and  falling  dead  at  the  doors.  In  the  vil- 
lages, deer  and  other  wild  animals  ran,  in  the  gloom,  close  to  the 
habitations  of  man.  The  greatest  consternation  existed  among 
the  people.  The  reports  of  the  mountain  were  plainly  heard 
in  Guatemala,  and  the  trembling  reached  even  to  Mexico.  In 
the  more  distant  sections  of  the  country,  the  discharges  were 
taken  for  the  firing  of  contending  armies. 

“Do  you  imagine,”  I asked  of  the  narrator,  “that  Consi- 
guina  will  ever  again  burst  forth  ?” 

“ Quien  sabe?”  replied  Don  Jose  Maria,  lifting  his  shoulders 
and  taking  another  pull  at  his  cigarro ; “the  volcano  could 
never  sustain  such  an  eruption  again  without  tearing  itself  to 
pieces ; but  we  think  here  it  exhausted  itself  in  that  great 
effort.  The  loudest  noises  ever  heard  by  mortal  ears  were  the 
hello  wings  of  Consiguina  for  two  days  and  nights !” 

The  Central  Americans  yet  regard  Consiguina  with  distrust, 
and  have  much  more  faith  in  the  good  behavior  of  little  upstart 
volcanoes,  or  quiet,  familiar  old  fellows  like  San  Miguel,  Concha- 
gua,  or  Ometepe.  During  the  last  ten  years  there  have  been 
comparatively  few  eruptions  or  earthquakes  in  Central  Ameri- 
ca. The  long  line  of  volcanoes  bristling  against  the  sky,  and 
forming  landmarks  for  the  traveler  for  the  whole  extent  of  the 
Pacific  coast,  seem  to  have  nearly  exhausted  themselves  in 
former  attempts.  Excepting  the  earthquake  which,  in  April, 
1854,  destroyed  San  Salvador,  and  a few  minor  shocks  experi- 
enced in  other  places,  the  volcanic  agency  has  given  little  or  no 
cause  for  alarm.  The  occasional  eruptions  in  Guatemala  and 
San  Salvador  have  but  in  few  instances  been  attended  with  se- 
rious consequences.  Those  known  as  the  water  and  fire  volca- 
noes are  among  the  tallest  peaks  in  Central  America;  the  lat- 
ter, to  the  southward  of  Guatemala,  still  emits  fire  and  smoke. 
Some  well-known  ones  have  grown  from  a level  surface  within 
the  memory  of  persons  still  living  in  San  Salvador. 

Following  the  Pacific  coast  to  the  southward  an  almost  con- 
tinuous chain  of  volcanic  peaks  appears,  in  which  occurs  the 
lofty  cone  of  San  Miguel,  the  range  terminating  at  Conchagua. 
That  of  San  Miguel  emits  occasional  puffs  of  white  smoke 


232 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


which  may  he  seen  ten  leagues  off,  wreathing  at  intervals  grace- 
hilly  against  the  sky.  In  1845  there  was  a partial  outbreak 
of  this  volcano  on  the  western  side,  or  that  opposite  to  the  city. 
For  two  days  preceding  the  eruption  frequent  rumblings  gave 
warning  of  the  approaching  convulsion.  The  earth  trembled 
for  many  leagues  around  the  mountain,  and  darkness  settled 
upon  the  country.  A panic,  such  as  had  not  been  known 
since  the  catastrophe  of  Consiguina,  seized  upon  all  minds. 
Prayers  were  offered  up  in  all  the  churches,  and  it  is  related  that 
thieves,  conscience-stricken  with  the  appalling  premonitions, 
came  voluntarily  to  those  they  had  robbed,  restoring  the  stolen 
property.  Many  families  fled  from  San  Miguel  to  Tigre  Island 
and  other  more  distant  places.  The  lava  issued  from  a small 
crater  on  the  western  slope  of  the  volcano,  and  in  two  days 
spread  over  a space  of  eight  miles  square,  but  doing  no  damage. 

The  hacienda  of  an  old  native,  who,  with  his  family,  lived  two 
thousand  feet  up  the  mountain,  was  surrounded  by  the  lava, 
which  miraculously  forked  a few  yards  above  his  dwelling,  and, 
closing  again  below,  continued  its  fiery  progress.  The  rapidity 
with  which  the  sulphureous  exhalations  arose  saved  them  from 
suffocation.  They  were  thenceforth  regarded  as  under  the  es- 
pecial protection  of  the  saints. 

The  phenomena  attending  the  numerous  eruptions  of  the  line 
of  volcanoes  extending  from  Guatemala  to  Costa  Rica  present 
some  of  the  most  interesting  features  in  geology,  and  much  re- 
mains to  be  added  to  the  facts  already  collected  by  scientific  ex- 
plorers. From  the  earliest  settlement  of  the  country  by  the 
Spaniards,  eruptions  and  earthquakes  have  destroyed  cities  and 
desolated  leagues  of  territory.  Scarcely  a town  in  Central 
America  but  has  its  local  account  of  devastation  from  these 
causes,  and  many  of  the  largest  cities  have  been  repeatedly  de- 
stroyed. The  destruction  of  the  city  of  San  Salvador  by  earth- 
quake on  the  night  of  the  16th  of  April,  1854,  forms  one  of  the 
most  frightful  narratives  on  record,  and  so  complete  was  the 
ruin  created  in  a few  minutes,  that  those  inhabitants  who  es- 
caped fled  forever  from  the  place.  The  seat  of  government  was 
removed  to  the  neighboring  town  of  Cojutepeque,  and  the  site 
of  the  late  city  abandoned. 

The  effects  of  earthquakes  have  seldom  extended  across  the 


EARTHQUAKES. 


233 


continent.  Rare  instances  are  recorded  of  tremblings  along  the 
northern  coast  of  Honduras.  The  most  severe  known  for  many 
years  occurred  from  the  5th  to  the  14th  of  August,  1856,  when 
the  entire  Caribbean  coast  was  violently  shaken.  These  were 
distinctly  felt  at  Jamaica,  and  at  Balize,  Omoa,  and  Truxillo : 
they  were  violent  and  long  continued.  At  Truxillo,  no  less 
than  one  hundred  and  eight  shocks  were  experienced  in  eight 
days.  Honduras,  however,  has  hitherto  been  singularly  ex- 
empt from  the  visitations  afflicting  the  neighboring  republics. 
From  inundations,  pestilence,  and  destroying  tempests  or  hurri- 
canes, there  are  no  accounts  of  the  country  ever  having  suffer- 
ed, though  the  long  lines  of  pine  timber  encountered  in  the  lla- 
nos of  the  sierras  prove  that  violent  northers  sometimes  sweep 
across  the  continent. 

A description  of  the  small  towns  in  the  Department  of  Tegu- 
cigalpa, visited  during  my  sojourn  in  the  capital,  would  be  but 
a repetition  of  those  already  given  of  sierra  villages.  My  prin- 
cipal object  at  those  of  Villa  Nueva,  San  Buenaventura,  Cedros, 
Cantarranos,  and  Guinope,  the  principal  “ miner  ales’'’  of  this  re- 
gion, was  to  obtain,  from  personal  inspection,  correct  knowledge 
respecting  the  silver  and  copper  mines,  of  which,  in  years  past, 
they  have  been  the  local  centres,  and,  as  such,  celebrated 
throughout  the  state.  The  pages  relating  to  Central  Honduras 
have  already  been  extended  beyond  my  original  intention,  and, 
as  I visited  these  places  a second  time  on  my  return  from  Olan- 
cho,  I reserve  farther  description  until  my  narrative  brings  me 
back  from  that  department,  comprising  as  it  does  that  part  of 
Central  America  known  as  “Eastern  Honduras.” 

The  goal  of  my  hopes  from  the  first  had  been  the  gold  region, 
of  which  the  vague  accounts  I had  already  heard  were  augment- 
ed and  confirmed  as  I drew  nearer  to  the  Guayape.  Tegucigal- 
pa is  but  a week’s  journey  from  the  head  waters  of  this  river, 
and  I had  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  a variety  of  information, 
most  of  which,  however,  was  limited  to  hearsay. 

Several  old  works  in  the  possession  of  Senor  Ugarte,  making- 
reference  to  the  Guayape  and  the  fame  of  its  placers , were 
kindly  placed  at  my  disposal  by  their  owner.  While  making- 
extracts  from  these,  I had  leisure  to  reflect  upon  the  singular 
circumstances  which  had  originated  and  brought  this  enterprise 


234 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


to  its  present  condition,  and  to  ponder  on  the  possible  results 
of  publishing  in  the  form  of  a book  or  report  the  facts  brought 
to  my  notice.  Every  day  I met  with  respectable  persons  who, 
knowing  the  objects  of  my  visit,  readily  engaged  in  conversation 
on  the  subject,  and  gravely  repeated  traditions  of  the  richness 
of  the  famous  “ gold  river,”  which,  but  for  the  frequent  realiza- 
tion of  such  statements  in  the  land  of  gold  I had  lately  left, 
would  have  staggered  my  belief  in  the  sincerity  of  my  inform- 
ants. 

Why  such  placers  as  were  reported  to  exist  on  the  Guayape 
and  its  tributaries  were  not  worked ; why  they  were  not  gener- 
ally known  to  the  world ; why  the  narrators  themselves,  with 
the  knowledge  of  such  facts,  failed  to  avail  themselves  of  them  ; 
why  the  mahogany-cutters  communicating  with  the  coast  had 
never  made  them  public ; and  why  the  country  had  not  long 
since,  like  California,  been  overrun  with  adventurous  gold-hunt- 
ers, were  questions  I then,  as  I had  often  before,  asked  myself. 
To  these  very  natural  queries  the  answers  are  that  no  means, 
capacity,  or  inclination  has  ever  existed  among  the  Olanchanos 
to  discover  the  wealth  of  the  lands  which  have  lain  under  their 
careless  footsteps,  as  those  of  California  did  under  the  tread  of 
the  Indians,  undeveloped  for  ages,  until  the  hand  of  industry 
made  them  available ; and  that  for  two  centuries  since  the  con- 
quest of  the  country,  Olancho,  which  is  a northerly  continuation 
of  the  Mosquito  coast,  has  been  out  of  the  track  of  commerce. 
Like  the  secluded  regions  of  the  Mosquito  kingdom,  its  sierras 
and  silent  cattle-plains  have  remained  in  the  same  primitive  con- 
dition they  occupied  fifty  years  after  the  early  settlement  by  the 
Spaniards.  The  traces  of  the  old  Spanish  workings  are  yet 
found — their  rude  implements  and  deep  holes  along  the  banks 
of  the  rivers.  The  country,  save  by  a few  dreamy  legends,  has 
been  an  unknown  land  to  the  world. 

Few  have  actually  known  of  its  existence,  and  not  one  in  ten 
of  the  best-informed  geographers  ever  heard  of  “ Olancho,”  or  its 
capital,  “ Jutecalpa.”  Even  Tegucigalpa,  a considerable  city, 
and  situated  in  the  better-known  part  of  Honduras,  seems,  until 
lately,  to  have  been  left  out  of  every  map  of  Central  America. 
Fewer  still  have  cared  to  penetrate  from  the  coast  of  the  Carib- 
bean Sea  into  an  undefined  and  distant  interior ; and  on  the  Pa- 


THE  GUAYAPE  GOLD  REGION. 


235 


cific  side,  the  occasional  foreign  vessels  visiting  the  coast  for  pur- 
poses of  trade  previous  to  the  gold  discoveries  in  California  have 
merely  touched  and  departed  ; Olancho,  until  within  a few  years, 
has  been  indeed  a “ sealed  book the  inhabitants  of  the  rest  of 
Honduras  seem  as  much  in  the  dark  on  this  subject  as  foreign- 
ers, and  none  were  able  to  give  more  than  hazy  statements  of  the 
Guayape  and  its  placers.  Add  to  this  a general  dislike  of  vis- 
iting Olancho  from  the  reported  suspicious  disposition  of  its  In- 
dians, their  jealousy  regarding  the  gold  washings,  and  the  natu- 
rally indolent  character  of  the  Hondurenos,  and  it  is  easily  ex- 
plained why  the  citizens  of  other  sections  of  the  state  have  not 
commenced  the  development  of  the  mines. 

The  mahogany  cutting  of  the  Guayape  and  Wanks  Rivers, 
and,  indeed,  of  all  the  streams  draining  Eastern  Honduras,  dates 
but  a few  years  back.  The  first  done  on  the  Guayape,  Guayam- 
bre,  or  Jalan,  all  forming  the  Patook,  discharging  into  the  Ca- 
ribbean Sea,  was  in  1848,  and  the  work,  carried  on  by  Jamaica 
negroes  and  Central  Americans,  was  neither  likely  to  develop  the 
gold  mines  or  circulate  the  news  that  any  such  existed.  The 
few  turtle-traders  or  mahogany-droughers  plying  along  the  keys 
between  Cape  Gracias  a Dios  and  Balize  would  scarcely  be  like- 
ly to  prove  means  of  disseminating  information  on  any  subject, 
nor  would  their  statements  be  credited.  It  will  thus  appear 
why  the  mineral  wealth  of  Eastern  Honduras  has  remained  con- 
fined to  the  knowledge  of  a few  persons,  through  whose  means 
the  facts  came  into  my  possession.  The  fame  of  the  Guayape, 
however,  was  not  unknown  in  England,  and  the  desire  to  be- 
come possessed  of  this  country,  together  with  the  mahogany  in- 
terests of  numerous  wealthy  London  houses,  may  help  to  ex- 
plain the  pertinacity  with  which  Great  Britain  has  clung  to  the 
apparently  worthless  coast  of  Honduras. 

That  one  of  the  finest  mineral  countries  in  the  world,  lying 
on  a natural  highway  of  our  own  commerce,  should  have  re- 
mained unoccupied  by  Americans  to  the  present  time,  would  be 
inexplicable  were  it  not  a parallel  to  the  same  negligence  which 
left  undiscovered  so  long  the  gold  mines  of  California  and  Aus- 
tralia. At  present,  the  colonial  movements  of  the  Anglo-Sax- 
ons are  controlled,  or,  at  least,  greatly  influenced  by  discoveries 
of  the  precious  metals.  Of  these  movements,  some  are  injudi- 


236 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


cious  and  unfortunate,  costing  immense  sums  of  money  and  the 
lives  of  multitudes  of  adventurers,  whose  enthusiasm  exceeds 
their  sagacity.  The  conditions  of  rapid  and  complete  success 
in  the  establishment  of  a mining  colony  are  threefold : The  in- 
habitants of  the  region  colonized  should  be  either  too  few  in 
number  to  incommode  the  miners,  as  was  the  case  in  California, 
or  well  disposed  toward  them  at  their  first  coming ; the  cli- 
mate must  be  either  temperate  if  low,  or  moderately  elevated 
above  the  ocean  if  it  is  tropical ; finally,  it  must  be  accessible 
by  sea,  and  will  be  more  easily  colonized  as  it  is  nearer  to  some 
one  of  the  grand  routes  of  commerce. 

Let  us  suppose,  for  instance,  that  gold  mines  similar  to  those 
of  California  should  be  discovered  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Nica- 
ragua, ten  days’  sail  from  New  York.  The  climate,  which, 
though  hi  the  tien'Ci  caliente,  is  not  a deadly  one ; the  soil, 
the  cheapness  of  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  the  safe  and 
speedy  access,  would  naturally  attract  thousands  of  peaceful  and 
industrious  laborers  and  settlers,  who,  without  war,  but  by  the 
mere  irresistible  course  of  things,  would  create  a new  republican 
state  in  that  portion  of  Central  America,  entirely  independent 
of  the  series  of  events  transpiring  in  the  last  twelve  months. 

But,  unfortunately  for  Nicaragua,  the  gold  deposits  are  in  the 
interior,  far  removed  from  the  line  of  American  travel,  and  situ- 
ated in  the  District  of  Segovia,  on  the  Honduras  frontier,  where 
commence  the  great  auriferous  fields  which  are  to  Central  Amer- 
ica what  the  centre  of  the  California  mining  region  is  to  the  sur- 
rounding agricultural  districts.  The  region  of  the  lakes  is  not 
the  region  of  the  precious  deposits. 

Those,  on  the  other  hand,  who  have  resided  for  any  length  of 
time  in  Nicaragua,  or  who  have  conversed  freely  with  travelers 
and  natives  of  that  country,  will  have  heard  of  the  “ Guay  ape 
gold”  brought  by  the  Indians  and  local  traders  toward  the  sea- 
coast  of  Honduras,  and  reputed  the  richest  in  the  world.  Time 
out  of  mind  this  gold  has  been  used  by  the  natives  of  Central 
America  for  ornamental  purposes,  but  the  placers  from  which  it 
is  taken  are  unknown  to  the  world  at  large.  This  gold  region 
is  near  to  one  of  those  high  roads  of  our  own  commerce  already 
surveyed  for  a transit  route  by  an  organization  of  American 
capitalists.  I have  already  referred  to  the  enterprise  of  the 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE. 


237 


Honduras  Inter-oceanic  Rail-road.  The  gold  region  of  Olancho 
lies  due  east  by  easy  access  from  the  projected  line  of  transit. 
Every  variety  of  gold  deposit  has  been  found  upon  the  Guayape 
and  its  tributaries,  and  the  lesser  particles  are  diffused  through 
the  soil  and  sands  of  every  stream  or  canon  in  the  country. 

These  facts,  startling  as  they  may  appear,  and  already  made 
the  subject  of  my  own  magazine  and  pamphlet  publications,  are 
at  this  moment  disclosing  themselves  before  the  adventurous 
tread  of  the  American  miner,  and  many  months  can  not  elapse 
before  Olancho,  with  its  healthy  climate,  valuable  vegetable 
products,  and  extensive  region  of  gold  placers,  must  become  the 
home  of  considerable  numbers  of  our  people. 

It  was  with  a knowledge  of  the  above  facts,  somewhat  ma- 
tured by  conversation  with  the  best  informed  natives  I could 
find,  that  I set  about  preparing  for  my  departure  from  the  city, 
where  in  a few  weeks  I had  made  many  warm  friends,  all  of 
whom  gave  me  their  best  wishes  and  loads  of  advice  for  the 
success  of  my  enterprise.  After  the  customary  delays,  without 
which  no  negotiation  can  ever  be  brought  to  a successful  close 
in  Central  America,  I secured  from  the  supreme  government 
some  valuable  privileges,  among  which  was  the  right  to  enter 
into  all  manner  of  contracts  for  mining  or  commercial  purposes 
■with  natives  of  the  country,  which  must  be  subject  to  the  sanc- 
tion and  approval  of  the  government.  All  mechanical  imple- 
ments, machinery,  scientific  instruments,  and  other  articles  nec- 
essary for  the  eventual  consummation  of  such  contracts  were  to 
be  admitted  tree  of  duty,  and  the  vessels  unrestricted  in  their 
navigation  of  the  rivers.  This  decree  having  been  published  in 
the  Gaceta , the  government  organ,  my  kind  friend  Cabanas,  to 
impart  additional  importance  to  my  enterprise,  sent  me  an  ap- 
pointment as  “ Honduras  Consul  General  in  the  United  States,” 
a passport  through  Honduras  signed  by  the  Minister  of  Rox-i- 
ernda , a packet  of  introductory  letters  to  all  persons  of  import- 
ance in  Olancho,  and  particularly  to  the  “Zelaya  family;”  a 
trusty  traveling  guide  and  servant,  and,  on  the  evening  previous 
to  my  departure,  called  at  the  house  with  his  parting  advice  and 
to  say  “Actios  /”  Other  friends  also  came  to  express  their  kind 
wishes  and  to  give  me  additional  letters  of  introduction. 

Meantime  all  preparations  had  been  made,  and  on  the  follow- 


238 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ing  morning,  at  peep  of  dawn,  the  mules  were  brought  out  into 
the  jpatio , where  m y muchacho , Roberto,  had  them  speedily  sad- 
dled and  loaded.  I had  engaged  an  acquaintance,  Senor  L , 

of  Tegucigalpa,  to  accompany  me  in  the  capacity  of  draughts- 
man, some  very  correct  drawings  of  his  having  been  shown  me, 
and  he  expressing  a desire  to  visit  Olancho  on  his  own  account. 
I soon  found  him  to  be  an  agreeable  companion,  while  his 
knowledge  of  the  people  was  of  frequent  use.  Our  little  train 
of  five  mules  trotted  gayly  out  of  the  city,  which  we  had  left 
some  distance  behind  us  as  the  sun  arose  over  the  eastern  edge 
of  the  Cordilleras. 

It  was  with  feelings  akin  to  exultation  that  I found  myself 
once  more  abroad,  mounting  the  rugged  spurs  of  the  mountains, 
inhaling  again  the  soft  but  bracing  upland  breezes,  “ my  scrip 
and  purse”  well  lined,  mules  in  good  order,  cheerful  compan- 
ions, a budget  of  excellent  introductory  letters  to  the  princi- 
pal Olanchanos , and  the  countenance  and  favor  of  the  govern- 
ment and  leading  families  to  assist  my  enterprise.  Our  “lug- 
gage” was  equally  divided  between  the  two  pack-mules,  one  car- 
rying the  provisions,  and  the  other  our  clothes,  instruments,  and 
traveling  paraphernalia.  A mile  from  La  Paroquia  we  crossed 
the  Rio  Grande,  from  which  we  made  a steep  ascent  of  a thou- 
sand feet  above  the  city.  From  this  summit  we  started  for  the 
village  of  Rio  Abajo,  situated  about  two  leagues  to  the  N.N.E. 
of  Tegucigalpa.  Stopping  on  two  occasions  to  make  sketches, 
our  boys  and  pack-mules  got  far  in  advance,  and  pursuing  our 
route  to  the  village,  we  found  them  wrangling  with  a party  of  re- 
cruiting soldiers.  The  mules  had  been  unloaded,  and  a formida- 
ble squad  of  barelegged  fellows  surrounded  the  disconsolate  par- 
ty, now  augmented  by  the  father  of  Roberto,  all  vociferating  at 
the  pitch  of  their  lungs.  Muskets  were  handled  furiously,  and 
in  the  midst  stood  my  servant,  wringing  his  hands,  and  looking 
the  personification  of  grief.  As  we  rounded  a bend  in  the  road, 
this  picturesque  scene  burst  suddenly  into  view.  We  galloped 
to  the  spot,  while  Roberto  and  his  father  rushed  toward  us,  sput- 
tering and  gesticulating  like  maniacs.  While  I was  listening 
to  their  statement,  an  officer,  somewhat  better  dressed  than  the 
rest,  approached. 

“ Senor,”  said  I,  “ of  what  crime  has  my  servant  been  guilty, 
that  you  detain  him  ?” 


CATCHING  SOLDIERS. 


239 


“Of  no  crime,  caballero,”  replied  the  officer ; “ but  the  gov- 
ernment lias  commissioned  me  to  catch  (coffer)  soldiers  for  the 
army,  as  well  as  to  seize  upon  all  mules  found  on  the  road,  and 
I am  but  doing  my  duty.” 

“But,”  I replied,  “are  you  not  aware  that  I am  traveling 
through  the  country  under  the  protection  of  government  ? See, 
here  is  my  passport  as  Honduras  consul,  and  here  are  letters  for 
the  President  himself.” 

“ In  that  case,  caballero,  I release  you ; but  here  comes  my 
superior  officer,  Colonel  Rubi.” 

And  in  truth,  from  a branch  road,  at  that  moment  he  appear- 
ed, with  a long  train  of  men,  numbering  some  two  hundred,  walk- 
ing two  and  two,  dirty  and  bedraggled,  and,  withal,  the  sorriest 
looking  creatures  I had  seen  in  the  country.  Upon  recognizing 
me  the  colonel  rode  hastily  up,  and,  his  quick  eye  detecting  the 
state  of  affairs,  he  berated  the  official  in  no  measured  terms  for 
his  stupidity,  and  then,  handing  me  a cigar,  begged  that  I would 
think  no  more  of  the  indignity.  While  the  men  were  reloading 
the  mules,  I found  time  to  inquire  of  my  friend  the  colonel  the 
object  of  this  “ cogiendo ,”  as  it  is  termed. 

“This  is  a sad  anomaly,”  said  I,  “on  your  boasted  demo- 
cratic institutions.  “ Oh ! as  for  that,”  he  replied,  “ it  is  done 
all  through  Central  America ; the  country  must  be  defended, 
and  then  we  pay  them.  General  Cabanos  becomes  a father  to 
these  poor  fellows ; but,  despite  all  he  does  for  them,  they  take 
the  first  opportunity  to  run  away  home  again.  Would  you  be- 
lieve it,  only  two  weeks  since  Colonel was  coming  out  of 

Toro  with  a hundred  of  them  for  the  army,  when  they  revolted 
in  the  road,  and  all  took  to  their  heels  into  the  woods,  leaving 
the  colonel  to  ride  back  alone.” 

I could  not  blame  them  for  such  a very  natural  resistance, 
but  inquired,  “ Do  you  ever  penetrate  into  Olancho  to  ‘ catch' 
soldiers  ?” 

“Caramba!  no,”  replied  the  colonel,  with  a grim  smile. 
“ Those  Olanchanos  are  diablos  ! They  carry  long  knives  and 
guns,  and  when  they  are  too  few  to  fight  they  hide  in  the  mount- 
ains with  the  Indians.  No,  no,  we  never  attempt  to  catch  them  ; 
they  are  muy  bravo , and  altogether  beyond  our  control.  Many 
years  since  the  supreme  government  invaded  Olancho,  but  it  was 


240 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  first  and  last  time,”  he  added,  with  a significant  nod.  “ The 
government  is  afraid  of  the  Olanchanos ,”  he  said,  after  a mo- 
ment’s silence;  “they  are  a little  republic  by  themselves.” 

The  colonel  laughed  at  the  idea  of  my  effecting  any  contract 
with  the  Zelayas,  and  repeated  the  old  Central  American  prov- 
erb, “ Olancho , ancho jpara  entrar,  angosto jpara  salir,”  a warn- 
ing which,  whether  it  applied  to  the  fascinations  of  the  women 
or  the  hidden  perils  of  the  country,  I was  little  disposed  to  take 
to  myself. 

The  hombres  cojidos  were  again  put  in  motion,  the  colonel 
first  seeing  them  pass  before  him  on  the  road  toward  Tegucigalpa, 
and  then,  with  a gay  “ adios  /”  he  spurred  after  them,  and  was 
out  of  sight  in  a twinkling. 

One  of  the  mules  having  grown  lame,  it  was  determined  to 
send  to  the  city  for  another,  which  detained  us  until  afternoon. 
As  the  next  town,  San  Diego  de  Talanga,  was  eight  leagues 
distant,  it  was  deemed  prudent  to  pass  the  night  at  Rio  Abajo. 


VIEW  NEAR  RIO  ABAJO. 

The  mules  were  consequently  unloaded  and  placed  inside  of 
our  stopping-place,  the  house  of  Senor  Laines,  Roberto’s  father, 
where  we  prepared  to  make  ourselves  comfortable  amid  screech- 
ing children,  fleas,  indescribable  noises,  and  the  essence  of  dirt. 
There  are  eleven  houses  in  Rio  Abajo.  On  a little  hillock  near 
our  house  Don  Domingo  Somebody  was  making  soap  out  ot 


VILLAGE  ACCOMMODATIONS. 


241 


goat’s  flesh,  which  he  stirred  with  a stick  as  it  boiled  over  the 
crackling  fire.  The  boiler  was  of  adobe,  plastered  within,  and  set 
into  a rude  framework  of  brick.  This  is  the  only  soap  used  or 
made  in  the  country  towns,  and  very  wretched  stuff  it  is.  But 
little  pains  are  taken  to  exclude  dirt. 

Entering  the  house,  I found  one  of  the  children  moaning 
with  pain  produced  by  a diseased  leg,  which,  probably  from  ex- 
posure, was  shriveled  into  a misshapen  stick.  My  fame  as  a 
medico  had  not  escaped  Roberto,  and  I was  immediately  be- 
sought to  examine  the  patient.  I had  long  since  learned  to 
comply  with  such  requests  with  the  best  grace,  and,  after  a due 
consultation,  prescribed  out  of  my  box  a mixture  of  camphor, 
salt,  and  Cayenne  pepper,  to  be  dissolved  in  hot  water,  and  rub- 
bed upon  the  limb.  Either  from  a general  faith  in  the  pre- 
scriber,  or  the  effect  of  the  chafing,  the  pain  subsided,  greatly  to 
my  astonishment,  and  thus,  much  against  my  will,  I found  my 
reputation  enhanced. 

To  my  efforts  in  the  medical  science  was  no  doubt  owing  the 
excellent  supper  spread  before  us  by  the  gratified  mother. 
Among  the  dishes  was  a tureen  of  sour  cream,  into  which  were 
freshly  broken  bits  of  newly-baked  tortillas , hot  from  the  fire. 
After  supper  my  boy  slung  my  hammock,  and  I had  hardly 
dropped  into  a doze  when  the  groaning  of  the  child  again 
aroused  me.  We  were  nine  persons  sleeping  in  the  only  room 
in  the  house.  At  my  call  for  a light  the  senora  entered  with  a 
blazing  pine  knot,  and  the  little  hut,  thus  illumined,  presented 
a spectacle  I was  not  then  used  to,  but  which,  ere  long,  became 
familiar  by  frequent  repetition.  On  the  two  beds  of  hide  lay  a 
heap  of  children,  stark  naked,  their  eyes  blinking  painfully  in 
the  glare  of  the  torch.  The  senora  herself  was  clad  in  a scanty 
night-dress,  over  which  her  long,  coarse  hair  fell  with  a wild,  un- 
natural look,  heightened  by  the  spectacle  of  her  black  eyes  and 
swarthy  face.  The  features  of  Senor  Laines  protruded  from  be- 
neath a ragged  coverlet,  reminding  me  of  a bear  thrusting  its 

shaggy  head  from  a bunch  of  underbrush.  L , enveloped  in 

a sheet,  lay  snoring  beneath  my  hammock ; the  servants  were 
coiled  up  on  the  saddles  and  mule-blankets ; the  centre  of  the 
house  was  occupied  by  several  dogs,  who  seemed  little  disposed 
to  move  at  the  shrill  voice  of  the  mistress  of  the  mansion.  On 

Q 


242 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


a framework,  erected  for  their  special  accommodation,  was  a row 
of  fighting-cocks,  whose  discontent  at  the  sudden  illumination 
was  expressed  in  deep  chuckles  of  rage  and  vicious  pecks.  Over- 
head from  the  rafters  dangled  strings  of  sausages,  Chili  peppers, 
plantains,  and  a variety  of  garden  vegetables,  the  whole  scarce- 
ly discernible  through  a network  of  cobwebs,  whose  nimble-foot- 
ed proprietors — they  too  awakened  into  sudden  vigilance  by  the 
torchlight — hastened  about  in  fearful  proximity  to  my  nose. 

The  Cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  camphor  were  again  applied, 
and  this  time  with  such  success  that  the  little  sufferer  went  to 
sleep.  The  night  was  cool,  so  as  to  require  the  use  of  all  my 
bedclothes.  On  the  following  morning  we  were  early  astir. 
While  the  boys  were  saddling  the  mules,  we  had  a few  moments 
to  gaze  around  us.  The  sun  rose  over  a cloudless  crest  of  blue 
mountains,  known  as  the  Jutiapa  range.  The  little  village  is 
placed  in  an  extensive  valley,  surrounded  by  numerous  peaks, 
all  of  which,  in  the  early  dawn,  have  that  singular  variegated  hue 
never  seen  out  of  the  clear  mountain  regions.  The  voices  of  a 
variety  of  birds  came  from  the  adjoining  woods,  and  dirty,  squal- 
id, and  miserable  as  the  hamlet  seemed,  I felt  a thrill  of  pleas- 
ure in  gazing  abroad  upon  the  njarvelous  beauty  of  the  scene- 
ry. We  were  soon  beyond  the  noise  of  pigs,  dogs,  and  poultry, 
and  again  in  the  open  country,  our  mules  plodding  briskly  up 
and  down  the  cuestas , and  the  jubilant  Roberto  from  time  to  time 
breaking  out  into  a half  crying,  half  ludicrous  song,  apparently 
the  lament  of  some  ill-used  senorita  to  a naughty  padre, 

“ 0 ! que  estais  haciendo , Fraile.  Pedro,  Fraile  Pedro, 

O ! que  estais  haciendo,  Fraile  Pedro  ?” 

at  the  close  of  which  he  would  dash  his  stick  at  the  nearest 
mule,  causing  a temporary  stampede  in  the  train,  and  a tremen- 
dous jolting  of  their  assorted  loads. 

At  9 A.M.  we  arrived  at  a small  collection  of  huts  known  as 
Cofradilla.  Our  course  from  Rio  Abajo  was  nearly  N.E.,  and 
making  a very  gradual  ascent.  From  Cofradilla  the  view  is 
fine,  the  Montanas  de  las  Moras  bounding  the  horizon  to  the 
N.lSr.E.,  and  those  of  Cantor al  to  the  N.W.  The  former  range 
is  named  from  the  blackberries,  which,  in  the  season  of  them,  are 
found  in  great  quantities.  Before  rising  the  mountain,  imme- 
diately after  leaving  Rio  Abajo,  we  had  forded  the  Rio  Grande 


COFRADILLA. 


243 


at  the  Fernando  /Soto,  crossing  where  I was  informed  several 
persons  had  been  drowned  in  attempting  to  pass  it. 

We  rode  up  to  the  house  of  Sen  ora  Soto,  the  principal  habi- 
tation of  the  place,  and  by  the  display  of  a few  reales  induced  the 
mistress  to  send  for  some  milk  and  chickens,  to  which  we  did 
full  justice.  Here  I saw  the  Chichicasta- tree,  a species  of  cow- 
hage,  hut  not  the  JDolichos  pruriens.  Near  the  house  were  a 
few  rude  plows  and  farming  implements,  hut  all  was  still  and 
apparently  palsied.  Far  away  on  a bleak  hill  I could  discern 
two  human  forms,  hut  with  these  exceptions  there  was  no  sign 
of  life,  save  in  the  shape  of  a few  squalid  children.  Deep  pine- 
forests,  silent  hut  for  the  murmur  of  the  breeze  through  their 
tops,  hounded  the  view  to  the  east  and  north.  The  sensations 
with  which  one  moves  through  these  dreary  solitudes  are  inex- 
pressibly sad.  The  herbage  is  low  and  uninviting  in  appearance, 
and  the  change  from  the  floral  wealth  of  the  Nicaraguan  low- 
lands to  these  elevated  regions  is  marked  and  striking. 

Leaving  the  little  village,  we  continued  our  course  to  the 
northeastward,  and,  after  traveling  two  leagues  through  an  ap- 
parently interminable  labyrinth  of  steep  mountains,  came  to  the 
Rio  Ylimapa,  a noisy  mountain  affluent  of  the  Rio  Grande. 
Crossing  this,  we  found  ourselves  at  the  base  of  a remarkable 
limestone  hill,  which,  shooting  up  like  the  steppes  of  a miniature 


LIMESTONE  HILL. 


244 


EXPECTATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


mountain  range,  formed  a beautiful  natural  fortification.  The 
road  wound  gradually  up  its  side,  and  the  whole,  which  was  of 
the  color  and  nearly  of  the  consistency  of  chalk,  shone  beneath 
the  ardent  sun  as  if  it  had  been  newly  painted  white ; it  was 
difficult  to  gaze  upon  it  fixedly  for  a moment.  The  mules’  feet 
have  worn  a series  of  steps  as  regularly  defined  as  if  cut  by  art. 
From  its  crest  we  gazed  beyond  toward  the  Montanas  de  los 
Hanchitos , far  to  the  eastward,  their  distant  tops  penciled  in 
sharp  outline  against  the  blue  ether. 

There  is  a gentle  descent  from  the  hill  before  you  commence 

rising  the  lofty  peaks  beyond.  L made  a sketch  of  this,  as 

well  as  of  another  remarkable  rock  capping  the  Tusterique  Hill, 


TUSTEEIQUE  IIILL. 


which  we  passed  a league  farther  on.  Here  appears  a cave,  ap- 
parently built  by  an  extinct  race.  The  stones  of  granite  are  laid 
regularly  as  by  the  hands  of  architects.  Within  these  are 
squared  blocks,  the  whole  overgrown  with  shrubbery.  The  out- 
side is  covered  with  a dense  growth  of  vines  and  bushes.  Nei- 
ther of  my  boys  knew  any  thing  of  its  origin,  nor  had  any  inqui- 
ries ever  been  made  on  the  subject.  The  difficulty  of  the  ascent 
and  the  lack  of  time  prevented  my  giving  it  the  deserved  atten- 
tion. The  interior  is  haunted  by  quantities  of  bats,  said  to  be  a 
species  of  the  vampyre,  and  by  which  some  of  the  finest  mules  in 


VALLEY  OF  TALANGA. 


245 


the  country  have  been  seriously  wounded.  A league  beyond, 
we  crossed  a very  clear  and  rapid  stream,  called  el  Rio  Zorilla , 
or  Skunk  River.  The  sparkling  waters  gave  the  lie  to  its  un- 
savory name.  It  flows  from  the  N.  W.  into  the  Rio  Grande . 
The  mountains  of  Ranchito  still  arose  in  our  course.  Beyond 
them  comes  the  plain  of  Talanga,  in  which  the  town  of  that 
name  is  situated.  The  intervening  country  is  of  granite  and 
limestone  formation,  interspersed  with  a red  rock,  easily  crum- 
bling and  breaking  into  minute  squares.  The  boldness  of  the 
hill  sides,  however,  in  many  places  had  exposed  them  to  the  ac- 
tion of  storms,  which,  laying  bare  the  white  substances  beneath, 
left  huge,  unsightly,  sunburnt  streaks,  glittering  from  afar  over 
the  heated  and  silent  country.  The  mountain  ridges  were  scant- 
ily wooded  with  pine  and  oak. 

This  Ranchito  range  once  crossed,  we  looked  down  upon  the 
great  valley  of  Talanga.  The  descent  is  abrupt  and  precipitous. 
In  all  directions  lay  heaps  of  fallen  pines,  whose  roots,  apparent- 
ly penetrating  not  a foot  into  the  shallow  soil,  were  clogged  with 
lumps  of  sand  and  limestone.  The  road,  leading  around  a prom- 
ontory or  spur  of  the  mountain,  afforded  a beautiful  view  of  the 
valley,  an  extensive  and  fertile  plain  still  wet  with  the  late  rains. 
We  followed  a miry  path  along  the  Quebrada  de  Talanga  or  Rio 
Salado,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  This  is  said  to  be  one  of  the 
branches  of  the  Sulaco,  flowing  into  the  Humuya. 

The  road,  which  over  the  “ cuestas ” had  been  hard  and  dry, 
now  became  muddy,  heavy,  and  obstructed  with  long,  trailing 
roots.  Vegetation  assumed  a ranker  appearance,  and  the  black 
loam  bore  thousands  of  bright  green  plants  and  numerous  at- 
tractive flowers.  Swamps,  impenetrable  for  their  dense  under- 
growth, bordered  the  path  to  the  left,  and  a forest  of  endless  va- 
riety to  the  right.  Night  overtook  us  in  this  slough  of  despond, 
although  we  belabored  our  animals  without  mercy.  The  hum 
of  myriads  of  insects,  and  the  voice  of  night  reptiles,  came  loud- 
ly through  the  air.  At  last  we  began  to  see  what  in  the  dark- 
ness appeared  to  be  an  opening  ahead,  and  our  mules,  slipping 
and  stumbling  in  mud  nearly  of  the  consistency  of  putty,  snuff- 
ed eagerly  at  the  prospect  of  a speedy  termination  of  their  la- 
bors. We  came  out  upon  a great  plain  covered  with  low,  clus- 
tering trees,  and,  though  very  fertile,  said  to  be  unhealthy.  It 
is  but  little  cultivated. 


246 


EXPLOEATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


After  leaving  the  swamp  we  followed  a mule-path  for  two 
leagues  through  darkened  thickets,  frequently  crossing  little 
streams,  until  a sudden  turn  brought  us  in  sight  of  a glare  of 
red  light,  which,  with  explosions  of  bombs  and  the  cries  of  an 
excited  population,  made  me  doubt  for  a moment  the  propriety 
of  entering  the  town. 

“ A revolution,  sure  as  fate,”  said  L . 

But,  as  we  drew  nearer,  the  sound  of  fiddles  and  guitars  unde- 
ceived us,  and,  clapping  spurs  to  our  jaded  beasts,  we  cantered 
into  the  little  town  of  San  Diego  de  Talanga.  We  found  the 


SAN  DIEGO  DE  TALANGA. 


Plaza  and  streets  light  as  day  with  bonfires,  and  the  houses 
re-echoing  the  explosions  of  crackers,  torpedoes,  and  bombas , 
among  which  the  juvenile  population  yelled  and  capered,  their 
dusky  forms  flitting  among  the  flames  like  so  many  imps  incar- 
nate. At  first  glance  the  scene  was  picturesque,  but  all  ro- 
mance vanished  upon  closer  inspection. 

There  was  a general  rush  toward  us  as  we  passed  through 
the  fiery  ordeal,  causing  our  pack-mules  to  gallop  off  into  the 
darkness,  followed  by  Diego  and  Roberto,  whose  indignant  liCa- 
ramba  ! que  muchachos  estos  /”  was  returned  with  a shout  from 
the  half-crazy  youngsters.  While  the  boys  were  driving  the 


FEAST  OF  SAN  DIEGO. 


247 


animals  back,  we  were  surrounded  by  a group  of  hideous  old 
beldames,  whose  leathery  skins,  bleared  eyes,  and  withered  fea- 
tures reminded  us  of  the  weird  sisters  of  the  blasted  heath. 
To  my  inquiries,  they  replied  that  this  was  the  grand  dia  dc 
fiesta  of  Talanga,  when  all  persons,  from  the  priest  down,  were 
licensed  to  get  drunk,  dance,  and  yell  to  their  hearts’  content,  a 
fact  I was  not  disposed  to  dispute,  judging  from  the  grotesque 
figures  around  me.  The  appearance  of  these  half-naked,  wrin- 
kled witches  was  rendered  more  horrible  by  the  glare  of  the 
bonfires. 

Turning  from  this  sickening  spectacle  we  rode  to  the  cabilda , 
where  another  crowd,  in  somewhat  better  trim  than  they  of  the 

Plaza , directed  us  to  the  house  of  an  acquaintance  of  L , a 

Senor  Don  Gregorio  Moncada,  living  near  the  church.  We  rode 
to  the  adobe  hut  designated,  dismounted,  and  were  received  with 
noisy  welcome.  They  were  a young  couple,  the  sehora  having- 
been  recently  manned,  and  before  the  nuptials  said  to  have  been 
one  of  the  belles  of  Cedros,  a town  some  ten  leagues  to  the 
northward.  The  conversation  of  the  lady  gradually  dissipated 
the  unfavorable  impression  I had  first  formed  of  Talanga.  She 
disliked  the  place,  she  said,  and  longed  for  nothing  so  much  as 
to  live  in  Tegucigalpa,  to  her  the  head-quarters  of  elegance  and 
fashion  in  the  world.  In  fact,  Honduras  was  her  world,  for  she 
knew  nothing  about  any  other.  After  supper,  we  followed  the 
direction  of  a band  of  musicians  to  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Plaza.  This  was  the  last  day  of  the  feast,  and  the  inhabitants 
were  determined  to  see  the  affair  over  with  due  demonstrations. 
We  stood  with  the  crowd  at  the  door,  and  looked  into  the  house, 
where  the  whirling  dancers  were  stepping  out  to  the  twang  and 
squeak  of  the  instruments.  Suddenly  the  master  of  the  house 
caught  sight  of  my  anti-Central  American  face,  and  in  another 
moment  was  at  the  door  for  a nearer  view.  A whispered  word 
from  Roberto,  revealing  that  I was  an  Americano  del  Aforte 
and  a government  official,  such  an  acquisition  to  his  ball  was 
not  to  be  despised,  and,  authoritatively  clearing  a lane  before 
me,  he  politely  begged  us  to  enter  and  select  a partner.  To 
say  that  we  did  not  accept  the  invitation  and  join  in  the  line  of 
whizzing  couples  would  be  an  injustice  to  the  generous  host, 
who  designated  to  us  the  best  waltzers  in  the  room.  The  floor 


248 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


was  of  mud,  and  the  walls  of  unburnt  adobes.  So  the  reader 
can  easily  imagine  the  company  by  the  style  of  reception-hall. 

On  returning  to  the  house  of  Don  Gregorio,  we  found  a fire 
blazing  in  a corner  of  the  one  room  constituting  the  interior  of 
the  dwelling,  and,  truly,  the  rather  sharp  air  seemed  to  warrant 
it.  At  a given  signal  the  lights  were  modestly  extinguished, 
and  in  the  darkness  could  be  heard  the  silent  rustling  from  dif- 
ferent corners  denoting  the  preparations  of  the  numerous  occu- 
pants for  the  night’s  rest.  Mine  was  the  only  hammock,  and 
this,  slung  from  the  old  rafters,  served  me  far  better  than  the 
miserable  arrangements  of  bulls’  hide  stretched  around  beneath. 
Excepting  the  usual  flea-pest  and  the  distracting  bleating  of 
goats,  nothing  disturbed  our  slumbers,  and  early  on  the  follow- 
ing morning  we  arose  much  refreshed.  During  the  packing 
process  I strayed  out  into  the  Plaza  to  view  the  town.  It  was 
a miserable  collection  of  adobe  huts,  the  church  the  only  pre- 
tending edifice  among  them.  A religious  procession,  consisting 
of  all  the  women  of  the  place,  headed  by  the  padre,  passed  by 
the  house  just  as  we  were  mounting.  They  earned  a ridiculous 
effigy  of  the  patron  saint  of  the  place  (San  Diego),  and,  with  all 
my  customary  gravity  on  such  occasions,  I had  much  to  do  to 
restrain  my  laughter.  The  old  fellow,  with  a beard  a foot  in 
length,  and  clad  in  the  cheap  finery  of  the  town,  was  seated  on 
a chair,  his  brows  crowned  with  palm-leaves,  and  a veritable 
sailor’s  tin  pot  in  his  hand.  By  some  piece  of  carelessness  on 
the  part  of  his  bearers,  his  head  had  got  loose,  the  motion  of 
which  was  precisely  like  that  of  a drunken  fiddler  nodding  with 
maudlin  stupidity  to  the  crowd.  The  tin  pot,  emblematical  of 
potations,  and  the  crown  of  what,  at  a distance,  resembled  grape- 
leaves,  completed  the  Bacchanalian  resemblance.  Lifting  our 
hats  reverentially  to  this  august  group,  we  rode  hastily  away, 
but,  once  out  of  hearing,  we  roared  for  three  miles  beyond  the 
town. 

The  Senora  Nicolasa  Moncada  had  kindly  filled  a pickle  bot- 
tle with  butter  for  us,  but,  ere  half  a mile  of  our  journey  had 
been  accomplished,  the  clumsy  Diego,  to  whom  it  had  been  in- 
trusted, let  it  drop — purposely,  I believe — and  this  doubtful 
delicacy  was  denied  us.  An  hour’s  rapid  trot  took  us  across 
the  valley  to  the  foot  of  the  Yindel  Mountains.  As  we  ascend- 


LAS  CUEVAS. 


249 


ed  them  we  looked  back  upon  the  town,  which,  like  all  Spanish 
settlements,  has  the  most  attractive  appearance  at  a distance. 

On  our  way  up  the  rugged  ascent  we  encountered  a train  of 
mules  en  route  for  San  Miguel.  In  advance  rode  two  women, 
carrying  baskets  with  holes  in  the  tops,  out  of  which  protruded 
the  red  gills  of  half  a dozen  fighting-cocks.  One  of  the  arieros 
had  a lusty  fellow  strapped  at  his  back.  They  hoped  to  reach 
San  Miguel  in  time  to  enter  their  birds  at  the  approaching  fair 
of  November. 

We  stopped  at  noon  at  Las  Cuevas,  or  the  Caves,  midway  be- 
tween Talanga  and  Guaymaca.  Under  the  projecting  brow  of  a 
cliff  is  a deep  indentation  in  the  hill,  blackened  with  the  smoke 
of  many  fires,  denoting  where  travelers  have  stopped  to  cook. 
A stream  of  water  flows  past  this  place,  and  here  we  dismount- 
ed to  make  coffee.  While 
thus  engaged,  a train  of 
cattle  from  Olancho,  on 
their  way  to  San  Miguel, 
came  past.  They  were 
healthy  and  fat,  and  their 
passing  gave  rise  to  some 
thrilling  stories  from  my 
boys  in  relation  to  the  dan- 
gerous calling  of  a drover. 
Sometimes  herds  of  cattle, 
numbering  two  thousand, 
are  driven  out  of  Olancho 
into  Guatemala,  and  on  the 
road  the  vaqueros  are  oft- 
en attacked  by  the  infuri- 
ated animals,  and  gored  to 
death.  These  men  have 
been  found  hanging,  torn 
andmangled,  fromthelimb 

TRAVELERS  NOONING.  r*  , .1  1 * A 

of  a tree  on  the  road  side, 
where,  after  killing  them,  the  beasts  had  tossed  the  bodies  with 
their  horns. 

From  where  we  were  sitting  my  attention  was  drawn  to  a 
tree  with  a dense  rich  green  foliage,  some  twenty  feet  in  height, 


/ 


250  EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 

and  standing  apart  from  a number  of  trees  much  resembling 
sycamores.  Diego  collected  from  the  limbs  some  of  the  dried 
berries,  or  fruit  of  the  past  season,  which  I immediately  recog- 
nized as  similar  to  those  I had  seen  for  sale  in  the  Plaza  mar- 
ket at  Tegucigalpa,  in  small  baskets,  with  the  name  of  jgimiento 
gordo.  It  was  the  real  allspice,  as  I found  by  putting  them  to 
my  tongue.  They  are  worth  about  ten  cents  a pound  in  the 
markets.  I afterward  found  that  it  flourishes  with  remarkable 
vigor  and  beauty  in  all  parts  of  Olancho.  In  a dozen  rides  I 
encountered  its  tall,  well-proportioned  trunk,  its  dark  brown 
bark  smooth  as  the  silver  birch.  The  foliage  resembles  that  of 
the  bay-tree.  Its  presence  may  often  be  detected  by  the  aro- 
matic odor  filling  the  air.  Though  the  allspice-tree  is  largely 
cultivated  in  the  West  India  islands,  no  similar  attempt  ap- 
pears to  have  been  made  in  the  adjacent  main  land.  The  na- 
tives gather  the  fruit  from  the  wild  tree  in  the  flowering  season 
(July)  in  a green  state.  They  are  brought  in  bags  to  the  small 
towns  of  Olancho,  placed  in  the  sun,  winnowed,  and,  when  com- 
pletely dried  and  wrinkled,  are  sold  to  the  dealers,  who,  after 
collecting  a sufficient  quantity,  bale  them  up  for  the  fair  of  San 
Miguel.  The  seeds  are  said  to  be  dropped  about  the  country 
by  birds,  thus  propagating  them  to  infinity. 

The  allspice  is  not  found  in  sufficient  quantities  to  warrant 
the  establishment  of  a trade,  but  the  excellent  quality  of  that 
gathered  by  the  natives  shows  that  it  could  be  cultivated  with 
great  success.  Its  name,  auspice,  arises  from  a supposed  com- 
bination of  the  aroma  of  the  nutmeg,  clove,  and  cinnamon.  It 
is  used  throughout  Honduras  to  season  food,  and  is  generally 
known  as  jpimiento  gordo.  It  flowers  in  Olancho  in  July  and 
August.  In  two  of  the  private  gardens  of  Tegucigalpa  several 
specimens  of  this  tree  were  growing  when  I was  last  there. 
They  are  valued  in  such  locations  particularly  for  their  aro- 
matic fragrance,  which,  after  a shower,  when  the  leaves  and  fruit 
have  been  shaken  and  bruised,  is  very  grateful. 

Our  repast  ended,  we  once  more  mounted  and  followed  the 
trail  to  the  northeast.  The  pine  region  still  continued,  inter- 
spersed with  occasional  clumps  of  other  trees,  the  more  notice- 
able for  their  rarity.  But  the  country  gradually  grew  more 
open,  and  sloped  down  from  the  Yindel  Mountains  toward  the 


NIGHT  IN  THE  SIERRA. 


251 


valley  of  Guaymaca,  discovering,  at  times,  extensive  grazing- 
plains  crossed  by  rivulets.  Some  of  these  were  two  or  three 
leagues  in  extent,  and,  at  my  expressions  of  admiration,  my  boy 
Diego  gravely  advised  me  to  preserve  my  astonishment  for  Olan- 
cho,  where,  he  had  always  heard,  were  the  most  beautiful  val- 
leys in  Honduras.  The  rancho  of  Ojos  de  Agita  is  the  only 
habitation  between  Talanga  and  Guaymaca.  This  we  passed 
without  visiting,  as  it  lay  a mile  to  the  northward  of  the  road. 


CHAPTER  XIY. 

Night  in  the  Sierra. — A Norther  in  the  Vindel  Mountains. — Perils  of  the  Pass. — 
Guaymaca. — A Midnight  Reception. — “ Tired  Nature’s  Sweet  Restorer.” — 
Preparing  for  the  “ Funcion.” — Hunting  for  a Breakfast. — Squalid  Misery. — 
A Mountain  Scene. — Volcan  de  Guaymaca. — Salto. — El  Rio  Rodondo. — A 
Source  of  the  Guayape. — Inaugural  Ceremonies. — Campamento. — Mary  of  the 
Holy  Cross. — Midnight  Musings. — An  Earthquake. — Appearance  of  the  Cam- 
pamento Range. — Cold  Weather. — Glowing  Accounts  by  “las  Lavaderas.” — 
Pursuit  of  Knowledge  under  Difficulties. — Gold  Washing  in  the  Rio  de  Con- 
cordia.— Visions. — Rio  Guayapita. — Rio  Almendarez. — El  Valle  de  Lepa- 
guare. — Cattle. — Scenery  of  the  Valley. 

Night  came  on,  and  the  faint  light  which  had  a while  allow- 
ed us  to  distinguish  the  path  now  gave  place  to  an  impenetra- 
ble gloom.  The  forest  waved  ominously,  and  the  silence  main- 
tained by  all  brought  more  sadly  to  mind  the  loneliness  of  our 
position.  Heavy  drops  of  rain  began  to  patter  among  the  leaves, 
and  far  behind  us,  through  the  darkness,  came  the  prolonged  howl 
of  some  gaunt  denizen  of  the  forest,  which  I believed  to  be  a 
cougar : the  tiger  of  Central  America  rarely  awakens  the  echoes 
with  its  cries. 

Cautiously  our  faithful  animals  felt  their  way  along  the  path, 
the  stones  slipping  from  under  their  feet  at  every  step  ; now 
sliding  down  some  declivity  unseen  by  the  rider,  but  evidently 
visible  to  them,  and  again  mounting,  with  a half  scramble,  the 
fragments  of  some  splintered  boulder  obstructing  the  path,  or  as 
often  stopping  to  smell,  with  ears  erect,  at  the  stump  of  a tree 
protruding  into  the  road.  Under  such  circumstances,  it  is  folly 
to  attempt  guiding  these  sagacious  camels  of  the  sierra.  With 
the  reins  gathered  loosely,  clear  of  their  steps,  we  allowed  them 


252 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


to  select  their  own  gait  and  path,  which  being  utterly  unable  to 
discern,  we  resigned  ourselves,  with  all  the  faith  we  could  mus- 
ter, to  the  discretion  of  our  sure-footed  beasts.  It  is  under 
such  circumstances  that  the  value  of  the  mule  becomes  appar- 
ent, when  the  horse,  noble  animal  as  he  is,  would  precipitate 
himself  and  rider  to  destruction  for  the  lack  of  this  unerring 
certainty  of  step. 

On  each  side  of  us  the  gnarled  and  chapping  limbs  tossed  their 
branches  in  the  north  wind,  which,  as  the  darkness  spread  over 
the  sierras,  gradually  increased  into  a storm.  At  times,  when 
the  windings  of  the  road  brought  the  gale  to  our  backs,  the 
mules  hastened  before  it,  carefully  drooping  their  long,  tender 
ears  from  the  pelting  rain ; but  when  brought  to  face  the  blast 
they  swerved  aside,  or  came  to  a dead  stand,  from  which  blunt- 
ed spurs,  anathemas,  and  blows  seemed  alike  incapable  of  arous- 
ing them. 


IN  THE  MOUNTAIN  STOEM. 


The  roaring  of  the  storm  among  the  pines,  mingled  with  the 
crash  of  falling  trees,  the  bitter  spite  of  the  wind,  the  darkness, 
and  the  broken  character  of  the  road,  combined  to  make  this  the 
most  fearful  night  we  had  encountered,  and  I secretly  cursed 
the  folly  of  undertaking  a winter  journey  into  a country  at  best 


A MOUNTAIN  STORM. 


253 


but  little  known,  and  for  an  object  o'f  the  existence  of  wliicb  I 
had  hitherto  only  heard  exaggerated  legends  and  the  obscure 

accounts  of  the  natives  of  the  country.  L pulled  his  hat 

over  his  face,  and,  with  head  bent  to  the  mule’s  neck,  spurred 
and  kicked  his  animal  forward.  I shouted  back  to  him,  and  he 
screamed  in  reply,  but  a dash  of  blinding  rain  bore  away  his 
words,  and,  at  the  same  instant,  a stout  pine,  which  had  been 
piping  in  its  upper  limbs  like  the  rigging  of  a ship,  swayed 
fearfully  in  the  gale,  and  crashed  to  the  earth  over  the  path  we 
had  but  a moment  before  crossed.  The  breaking  of  its  limbs 
resounded  through  the  woods  above  the  voice  of  the  storm. 

“ Cciramba! ” said  Roberto,  spitting  the  rain  from  his  mouth 
and  crossing  himself ; “ que  noche  esjoantosa  /” 

I now  recalled  the  long  lines  of  pines  fallen  in  one  direction 
which  I had  seen  extending  leagues  through  the  woods  toward 
Las  Cuevas , and  could  readily  imagine  the  cause  of  their  down- 
fall. The  violent  northers,  bursting  upon  the  coast  of  Mexico 
and  along  the  Spanish  Main,  always  extend  into  the  Cordille- 
ras of  Central  America,  where,  pent  up  among  the  mountain  bar- 
riers, they  tear  with  resistless  fury  through  the  canons  and 
passes,  often  overturning  mule  and  rider,  and  leveling  leagues 
of  forest. 

The  Atlantic  slope  of  the  sierra  toward  Olancho  is  intersect- 
ed with  narrow  gorges,  acting  as  funnels  or  conductors  to  the 
winter  gales.  Similar  formations  are  found  in  the  mountains 
of  Gracias,  toward  the  Guatemalan  frontier,  where  a location 
has  become  famous  from  the  fact  that,  in  passing  it,  the  rider 
must  dismount  and  crawl  through,  or  take  the  chance  of  flying, 
with  his  animal,  down  some  precipice,  where  the  zopilotes  and 
cougars  might  thank  the  norther  for  their  feast.  We  pushed 
on,  now  scrambling  up  declivities,  whose  winding  pathway,  cut 
up  with  rivulets  born  of  the  storm,  and  tumbling  fiercely  along 
their  stony  beds,  formed  a rolling  and  uncertain  foothold  for  the 
animals,  or  holding  back,  as  the  road,  pitched  at  a steep  angle, 
obliged  them  to  half  slide  to  the  evener  ground  beneath. 

In  the  piercing  cold,  it  required  some  stretch  of  imagination 
to  conjure  up  phrases  illustrative  of  tropical  climes ; in  short, 
the  weather  was  as  untropical  as  could  well  be  imagined,  and 
this,  too,  in  a region  commonly  associated  with  death-dealing 


254 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


miasmas,  swamps  redolent  of  malaria,  and  the  cadaverous  fea- 
tures of  the  fever-stricken  residents.  The  difference  between 
the  tierras  calientes  of  the  Mosquito  coast  and  the  cool  table- 
lands of  all  interior  Honduras  is  the  most  remarkable  fact  forc- 
ing itself  upon  the  foreigner. 

Toward  midnight  we  approached  the  village  of  Guaymaca. 
situated  in  the  valley  of  that  name.  The  storm  still  swept  the 
ravines  as  we  descended.  Removed  from  the  ordinary  routes 
of  travel,  these  mountain  villages  present  pictures  of  extreme 
poverty,  unrelieved  by  any  communication  with  the  outer  little 
world  of  Honduras,  itself  a hermit’s  cell  compared  with  the 
other  Central  American  states.  I have  endeavored  to  depict  the 
condition  of  these  settlements  in  the  few  already  described,  that 
the  future  traveler,  if  such  there  should  ever  be  in  these  parts, 
may  form  some  idea  of  the  entertainment  he  is  likely  to  meet 
with.  You  encounter  them  at  long  intervals,  with  each  eight 
or  ten  leagues  of  intermediate  desolation. 

The  villagers  seem  to  have  nothing  to  eat,  or,  if  they  have,  it 
is  so  little  that  they  are  loth  to  share  or  sell  it.  A few  tortil- 
las, a flock  of  lean  fowls,  perhaps  an  attenuated  porker,  consti- 
tute the  only  visible  means  of  subsistence  for  each  family.  Let 
the  reader  picture  a barren  mountain  path  winding  among  such 
scenery  as  has  already  been  described.  It  is  in  the  dry  season  : 
a cold  night  wind  whistles  through  the  scanty  herbage,  carrying 
clouds  of  dust,  and  half  sweeping  you  from  your  saddle.  You 
have  fasted  since  daylight,  and  a mind  predisposed  to  despond- 
ency by  weariness  and  hunger,  for  a long  time  silently  endured, 
is  excited  to  ill-defined  but  sad  forebodings.  Suddenly  the  dis- 
tant bark  of  a dog  arouses  your  sensitive  mules.  They  quicken 
their  pace,  and  slide  rapidly  down  the  steep  declivities.  If  it  be 
in  the  wet  season,  you  are  probably  saturated  with  rain,  and 
blinded  with  the  incessant  lightning  flashes,  almost  searing 
your  eye-balls  with  their  intensity.  Soon  you  are  advancing 
upon  a level  ground,  and  in  the  middle  of  a small  plain,  an 
eighth  of  a mile  wide,  may  be  seen  the  outline  of  some  Indian 
huts.  A troop  of  savage  curs  rushes  out,  and  your  advance  is 
announced  by  a grand  chorus  of  pigs,  mules,  horses,  and  feath- 
ered choristers,  but  as  yet  no  sign  or  voice  of  humanity ; no 
lights  in  the  village  ; all  dark,  silent,  and  asleep.  The  ghostly 


VILLAGE  HOSPITALITY. 


255 


outlines  of  the  surrounding  hills,  give  forth  a solemn  and  chill- 
ing murmur  from  amid  the  pine  groves  skirting  their  summits. 

Saddle-sore,  and  faint  with  weariness  and  a day’s  hunger,  you 
alight,  and,  after  stumbling  through  duck-ponds  and  ditches, 
grope  your  way  to  the  entrance  of  the  largest  hut  amid  a collec- 
tion of  reeking  cabins  of  adobe,  more  resembling  those  of  Hot- 
tentots than  of  even  semi-civilized  beings.  You  forbear  to  open 
the  doors  forcibly,  remembering  certain  snarling  wolf- curs, 
against  whose  glistening  teeth  neither  leggins  nor  boot-tops 
are  proof.  You  raise  the  voice  in  silvery  Castilian,  pleading  for 
admission : answer,  a grunt.  You  add  pecuniary  inducements 
in  more  emphatic  Castilian:  answer,  a burst  of  baby  voices 
shrieking  in  chorus,  and  the  scold  of  the  vigilant  seiiora,  arous- 
ing her  sleepy  Don,  and  bidding  him  open  the  door  to  the  stran- 
gers. Don  Fulano,  alcalde  primero  of  a hundred  natives,  rolls 
half-naked  from  his  bull’s  hide,  to  the  sorrow  of  an  army  of  fleas, 
opens  the  door  a crack,  and,  peering  forth  into  the  wet  night, 
utters  the  monosyllable  “ Quien  f” 

A parley  ensues,  in  which  the  principal  arguments  on  his  side 
are, 

“Ah  hay  jpara  comer,"  “ muy  pobre,"  “ ni  viveres  ni  camas 
hay  /”  and  on  yours, 

“ Official  del  Gobiemo ,”  “ El  Presidente  Cabanas ,”  “ Don 
Francisco  Zelaya ,”  “ Christianos ,”  and,  what  is  better  than 
all,  the  careless  jingle  of  a few  reales,  which  you  allow  the  light 
from  the  chinks  to  strike  upon  and  glisten  in  the  rain.  At 
length  the  door  is  opened,  and  you  have  permission  to  occupy 
the  floor  for  the  night,  or  perhaps  to  sling  your  hammock  from 
the  rafters. 

To  sleep,  however,  is  impossible ; the  snoring  of  the  Don, 
who  answers  with  an  invariable  grunt  the  hourly  scolding  of 
the  senora,  urging  his  attention  to  the  natural  necessities  of  a 
half  dozen  unsavory  brats ; the  crowing  and  stirring  of  fowls 
overhead,  of  whose  situation  you  are  exactly  informed  by  the 
laws  of  gravitation ; the  shrieking  of  donkeys,  baying  of  dogs — 
these,  with  that  indomitable  little  mailed  war-horse  of  the  insect 
tribe,  the  flea,  render  the  night  more  miserable  than  the  day,  and 
make  you  “ hail  smiling  morn”  with  a fervor  of  thankfulness  not 
to  be  described.  You  rise  at  dawn,  inhale  unspeakable  com- 


256 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


fort  from  your  dear  pipe,  sip  a cup  of  chocolate  or  cotfee,  per- 
form hasty  ablutions  in  the  nearest  brook,  mount,  and  away 
again,  thridding  with  renewed  courage  the  dreary,  interminable 
windings  of  the  mountain  passes. 

At  Guaymaca  we  were  thus  received,  and  passed  a night  such 
as  few  can  appreciate  who  have  not  experienced  the  like.  But 
at  morning,  as  we  issued  from  the  hut,  we  found  an  entirely  dif- 
ferent scene  from  that  of  the  previous  night.  The  day  was  clear 
and  still.  The  storm-clouds  had  drifted  far  away  to  the  west- 
ward, and  a blue  sky  spanned  the  little  amphitheatre  of  Guay- 
maca. An  atmosphere  of  Italian  purity  and  softness  invigorated 
the  system,  and  seemed  to  nerve  us  anew  for  the  mountain  path. 
A girl  of  some  seventeen  years  entered  the  hut  as  we  were  break- 
fasting. A traveling  peddler,  with  dress  patterns,  ribbons,  and 
women’s  trinkets,  came  in  shortly  after,  and  an  argument  ensued 
between  the  two  as  to  cuatro  reales  in  the  price  of  a dress  which 
the  rural  belle  wished  to  purchase  for  the  ensuing  “ fundon." 
With  an  eye  to  a future  hospitable  reception  on  our  return,  I 
bought  it  and  presented  it  to  the  mother,  who  immediately  flew 
out  of  doors,  and,  having  rummaged  the  little  town,  returned  with 
a dozen  eggs,  a fowl,  and  a pyramid  of  tortillas , thus  adding 
greatly  to  our  stock  of  provisions.  The  feast  of  San  Diego, 
they  said,  should  have  been  celebrated  a week  before,  but  the 
padre  had  been  sick,  and  there  was  no  one  to  conduct  the  ap- 
propriate religious  ceremonies. 

Previous  to  my  lucky  strike  with  the  Senora  Hipolita,  and 
the  compliment  to  the  Nina  Alvina,  her  daughter,  I had  made  a 
short  foraging  expedition  around  the  town,  consisting  of  four- 
teen adobe  huts,  but  with  no  success. 

“This  is  a land  of  plenty,  senor,”  said  a negress,  who,  with 
a child  straddled  across  her  hip,  stopped  to  answer  to  my  in- 
quiry for  something  to  eat,  “but  the  grasshoppers  have  eaten 
every  thing  this  year.” 

I applied  at  a cabin  where  a barefooted  old  dame,  with  gray, 
straggling  hair  floating  down  her  face,  was  sweeping  the  floor 
with  a brush  broom. 

“ Senor,”  said  she,  “ we  have  little  to  eat  here  ourselves ; 
this  is  a time  of  sad  scarcity — Vaya  con  Dios  !”  and  she  shut 
the  door,  herself  the  picture  of  want  and  misery. 


MOUNTAIN  SCENERY. 


257 


The  alcalde  I found  stretched  asleep  upon  a bench,  his  hair 
standing  on  end  “like  a hurrah’s  nest,”  and  his  bare  feet  plas- 
tered with  pink  mud. 

“Amigo,”  said  I,  with  due  respect  to  his  office,  “assist  me 
in  purchasing  a few  tortillas  and  frijoles  for  my  journey.” 

“Senor,”he  replied,  awaking  at  my  repeated  demand,  “here 
we  have  absolutely  nothing  to  eat.  It  is  a time  of  terrible 
scarcity.  I fear  we  must  all  flee  into  the  valleys  below  to  pre- 
vent starvation.” 

“But,”  said  I,  pointing  to  some  strips  of  beef  dried  and 
blackened  in  the  weather,  and  depending  from  a pole  stretched 
between  two  crotched  sticks,  “ here  is  some  dried  beef.  Will 
you  not  sell  a morsel  ?” 

“It  is  impossible,”  returned  the  alcalde;  “we  should  starve 
ourselves.  You  had  best  make  haste  toward  Campamento, 
where  I believe  there  is  a little  corn  and  beans.”  I had  just 
returned  from  this  unsuccessful  attempt  when  the  peddler  ar- 
rived, and  the  senora  rewarded  my  generosity  as  above  stated. 

We  rode  out  of  the  place,  and  half  an  hour  brought  us  once 
more  into  the  lonely  passes  of  the  Cordillera.  The  sun,  al- 
ready above  the  woods,  shone  full  upon  the  tasseled  banners  of 
gray  moss  depending  from  the  branches.  The  trunks  of  the 
trees,  coated  with  silver  lichens,  gleamed  amid  the  sober  foliage, 
or  twisted  themselves  into  fantastic  shapes  to  avoid  the  rocks 
rising  like  ruined  castles  among  them.  A great  stillness,  as  if 
unbroken  for  ages,  lay  heavily  upon  the  heights  above.  We 
passed  reverently  through  these  impressive  solitudes,  and  the 
eye  rested  complacently  upon  diminutive  upland  flowers  peep- 
ing from  the  carpet  of  damp  leaves  that  strewed  the  ground,  or 
glanced  upward,  attracted  by  the  flight  of  the  mountain  hawk, 
distiuhed  in  his  solitary  domain,  swooping  away  with  harsh 
cries  to  settle  on  some  distant  cliff. 

I do  not  believe  that  any  description  can  convey  a complete 
idea  of  the  invigorating  influence  of  the  fresh  morning  air  of 
these  uplands.  The  effect  is  particularly  noticeable  after  a 
night’s  rain,  which  here  does  not  destroy  the  road,  except  in  the 
few  valleys,  and  the  traveler  is  thus  enabled  to  enjoy  as  he 
rides.  It  is  a positive  blessing  to  breathe.  The  air  goes  into 
the  lungs  like  the  passage  of  pure  cold  water,  but  the  effect 

R 


258 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


through  the  system  is  like  that  of  laughing-gas.  After  ten 
o’clock  the  heat  becomes  greater,  and  for  an  hour  before  and  aft- 
er midday  it  is  always  desirable  to  seek  the  shelter  of  some 
thick  grove  or  jutting  cliff. 

To  the  northwest  of  our  course,  a ridge,  known  as  the  Mon- 
tanas de  Gcdan,  or  the  “ Beautiful  Mountains,”  stretched  along 
the  horizon  with  a sharpness  of  outline  and  an  intensity  of  in- 
digo blue  that  kept  my  eyes  riveted  upon  them  in  silent  admi- 
ration whenever  an  opening  in  the  trees  or  a rise  in  the  path 
permitted.  The  whole  range,  sparkling  with  the  last  night’s 
rain,  and  laughing  with  sunlight,  seemed  more  like  some  fancy 
creation  of  an  artist’s  pencil  than  reality.  Right  out  of  their 
centre  sprang  the  cone  of  Guaymaca,  evidently  a defunct  volca- 
no, judging  from  its  pyramidal  shape,  and  the  top  broken  off 
by  some  convulsion  of  olden  times,  and  now  resembling  the 
broken  crest  of  some  sugar-loaf  carelessly  knocked  off  an  inch 
or  two  below  its  apex.  Rumblings  and  mutterings  are  report- 
ed to  be  heard  from  that  region  every  few  years,  and  the  Guay- 
macans  have  traditions  of  “ rnucho  humo  fuego  y cenizas ” vom- 
ited forth  by  the  mountain,  but  these  are  scarcely  reliable. 
The  peak  rises  about  2000  feet  over  the  plain,  and  some  4000 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  Galan  Mountains  are  a contin- 
uation of  a chain  running  to  the  northeast,  and  forming  a great 
curve  some  twenty  miles  to  the  northward  of  Guaymaca.  This 
range  is  known  as  the  Montanas  del  Salto , ox  jumping -off jplace, 
from  the  fact  that  from  their  crest  commences  the  descent  to- 
ward the  great  coast  savannas  of  the  Caribbean  Sea.  These 
are  actually  divided  into  two  chains,  the  most  easterly  one  be- 
ing that  of  the  Campamento  range,  where  commence  the  territo- 
ries of  the  great  Zelaya  family,  descendants  of  the  pioneer  set- 
tler of  Olancho,  who  in  the  seventeenth  century  entered  these 
wild  solitudes  with  his  stout  retainers,  under  special  grant  of 
the  Spanish  crown,  conquered  the  Indians,  introduced  the  first 
cattle,  and  discovered  the  auriferous  nature  of  the  soil. 

At  noon  we  reached  two  grass-thatched  huts,  known  as  el 
Rancho,  and  erected  at  government  expense  for  the  benefit  of 
benighted  travelers ; and  a league  farther  on  we  pulled  up  at  a 
wretched  hamlet  called  Salto.  The  inhabitants,  as  far  as  I 
could  judge,  consisted  of  a bedraggled  rooster  and  two  hens, 


SOURCES  OF  THE  GUAYAPE. 


259 


several  pigs,  lean  and  vicious,  two  or  three  completely  naked 
children,  who  ran  behind  the  nearest  hut  as  we  dismounted,  and 
an  old  woman.  We  commenced  the  usual  preliminaries  of  bar- 
tering for  a few  plantains  or  eggs,  hut  the  old  beldame  tremu- 
lously repeated  the  usual  “ no  hay!”  casting  at  the  same  time  a 
glance  of  apprehension  at  her  little  stock  of  poultry  and  pork. 
This  was  the  most  utterly  wretched  place  I ever  beheld. 

To  my  inquiry  as  to  where  the  rest  of  the  villagers  were,  she 
replied  that  some  had  been  “caught”  for  soldiers,  others  dead, 
and  the  rest  gone  into  Olancho  for  viveres.  Tossing  her  a hand- 
ful of  copper  coin,  for  which  she  ejaculated  “God  preserve  you, 
sir!”  we  pursued  our  course,  and  descending  a path,  the  rag- 
ged steps  of  which  it  would  be  difficult  to  describe,  came  upon 
the  waters  of  the  Iiio  Rodondo , which  flows  to  the  northeast, 
and,  struggling  through  a gorge  some  leagues  to  the  eastward, 
joins  its  bright  waters  with  another  of  equal  dimensions,  and 
discharges  by  a series  of  cascades  into  the  Guayape.  These 
take  their  rise  in  the  Salto  and  Campamento  mountains. 

I shall  not  soon  forget  my  sensations  on  first  seeing  this 
noisy  little  affluent  of  the  famous  river  I had  so  long  desired  to 
behold.  The  heat  had  now  become  oppressive,  and,  ordering  a 
general  halt,  I dismounted  to  bathe  in  its  inviting  waters.  This 
done,  we  inaugurated  the  first  tangible  evidence  of  the  Guayape 
by  a pull  at  the  botella  de  aguardiente  all  around. 

An  American  flag  brought  from  California  I had  presented  to 

my  friend  Don  Mariano  at  Chinandega,  and  the  Senora , 

of  Tegucigalpa,  had  replaced  it  with  a specimen  of  her  own  man- 
ufacture. The  red  and  blue  were  sewed  into  a groundwork  of 
white  drilling,  and  the  stars  as  regularly  placed  as  the  most 
patriotic  American  could  desire. 

Roberto  dragged  it  out  of  the  alforjas,  and  shouted 

II  Viva!  la  bandera  Americana /”  as  he  flung  its  crumpled 
folds  to  the  breeze. 

“Well,”  thought  I,  as  the  gaudy  affair  wriggled  in  the  wind, 
“ in  the  rush  of  events,  who  knows  but  that  flag  may  yet  wave 
over  the  broad  valleys  of  Central  America  ?” 

Prophetic  thought!  even  as  I mused,  the  contracts  of  my  com- 
panion, who  had  remained  in  Nicaragua,  were  en  route  for  Cal- 
ifornia, to  invite  the  Anglo-Saxon  element  into  the  intestine 


260  EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 

wars  of  that  unhappy  republic.  From  Byron  Cole’s  parchment, 
what  a chain  of  political  events  have  grown ! The  “ Viva!”  of 
Roberto  was,  beyond  cavil,  the  first  scream  of  Young  America 
in  his  new  tropical  cradle. 

After  crossing  the  Rio  Rodondo  we  again  ascended  some 
1500  feet,  and  opened  an  extensive  plat  of  table-land  gradually 
sloping  to  the  northeast.  We  were  now  in  Olancho.  The  Sal- 
to range  forms  the  boundary-line  separating  that  Department 
from  the  rest  of  Honduras.  F olio  wing  the  track,  which,  from 
the  recent  infrequency  of  travel,  was  now  nearly  obliterated,  we 
found  ourselves  going  parallel  with  a stream,  winding  at  last 
through  a deep  wood,  and  into  a small  valley  or  plain  surround- 
ed by  hills,  in  the  centre  of  which  stood  the  village  of  Cam- 
pamento.  The  elevation  of  this  place  is  2500  feet  above  the 


sea. 


We  dismounted  at  the  door  of  the  largest  hut.  The  propri- 
etress, rejoicing  in  the  name  of  Senora  Maria  de  Santa  Cruz 
(Mary  of  the  Holy  Cross!),  appeared  on  the  instant,  and  asked 
us  to  alight  in  the  name  of  God.  Such  an  unexpected  recep- 
tion augured  an  abundance  of  tortillas  and  other  eatables,  and 
in  a few  minutes  our  mules  were  unloaded  and  ourselves  dis- 
cussing the  provisions  set  before  us  by  the  landlady. 


THE  GOLD  REGION. 


261 


The  population  of  Campamento,  consisting  of  a mixture  of 
negroes  and  Indians,  about  200  in  number,  reside  within  the 
legal  estates  of  the  Zelaya  family,  but  are,  of  course,  under  no 
authority  other  than  that  of  the  supreme  government  of  Hon- 
duras. I soon  found,  however,  that  they  regarded  los  Zelayas 
as  the  local  sovereigns  of  all  that  section  of  country,  being  main- 
ly dependent  upon  them  for  clothes  and  the  ordinary  articles  of 
life,  and  recognizing  “ el  General  Don  Chico”  as  they  affection- 
ately styled  Don  Francisco,  for  their  “father”  and  “ patron .” 

The  Senora  Santa  Cruz  informed  me  that  the  stream  we  had 
been  following  during  the  afternoon  was  sometimes  called  the 
Rio  Concordia , emptying  into  the  Guayape;  that  '■'•mucho  oro ” 
was  taken  out  on  its  banks,  and  that,  on  the  following  morning, 
she  would  show  me  a locality  where  some  lavaderas  were  now 
at  work.  With  this  promise  I contented  myself,  and  turned 
into  my  hammock,  slung,  as  usual,  from  the  rafters.  Unable 
to  sleep,  I looked  forth,  and  observed  the  landscape  fade  away 

as  darkness  shut  out  the  mountain  heights  around.  L 

was  completely  “used  up,”  and  could  only  answer  to  my  re- 
marks with  a feeble  murmur,  showing  his  desire  to  sleep.  For 
myself,  I was  full  of  excitement.  I had  passed  nearly  all  day 
through  a region  which  some  years  of  mining  experience  in  Cal- 
ifornia taught  me  to  believe  was  gold  bearing.  I had  made 
careful  observations  upon  the  character  of  the  rocks  and  the 
nature  of  the  soil. 

Auriferous  quartz  veins  are  of  frequent  occurrence  in  other 
parts  of  Central  America  as  well  as  in  Olancho,  but  in  no  other 
portion  of  the  continent,  excepting  California  and  Oregon,  have 
there  been  discovered  placer  diggings  superior  to  those  I after- 
ward saw  in  the  Guayape  region.  The  rock  formations  I had 
passed  during  the  day  are  analogous , but  are  not  identical,  with 
those  on  the  Stanislaus  and  other  rivers.  The  differences  in 
soil  are  accounted  for  by  the  denser  and  richer  vegetation  of  this 
region.  I am  disposed  to  regard  the  Salto  and  Campamento 
ranges  as  of  later  formation  in  point  of  time,  and  more  disturb- 
ed by  volcanic  interference  than  those  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
The  summits  over  which  we  had  passed  were  composed  of  a 
porous  silicious  stone,  unfavorable  to  vegetation ; but  in  de- 
scending the  steeps  I had  noticed  a formation  of  slate,  standing 


262 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


vertically,  similar  to  those  often  constituting  the  bed  rock  on  the 
Mokelumne  River  in  California.  There  were  often  seen  large 
bare  places  of  a species  of  sandstone,  in  huge  layers  and  strata, 
but  generally  broken  into  pebbles,  and  mixed  together  with  mill- 
ions of  pieces  of  quartz,  the  whole  forming  a disintegrated  mass 
like  pudding-stone. 

The  road  often  cut  directly  through  these  layers ; where  a 
stream  flowed  down  the  mountains,  it  had  almost  always  forced 
its  way  through  them,  and  the  bottoms  of  these  rivulets  were 
thus  paved  with  variegated  pebbles,  among  which  the  white 
quartz  predominated.  The  whole  eastern  slope  of  this  dividing 
range  is  formed  by  a mixture  of  limestone,  quartz,  and  slate. 
In  making  the  descent  our  mules  often  slid  for  yards,  their 
hoofs  slipping  over  the  polished  particles.  But  my  simple  in- 
formants very  soon  assured  me  that  the  Guayape  was  by  no 
means  the  only  gold-bearing  river  in  Olancho.  Every  mount- 
ain tributary,  every  “ gulch”  and  canon,  they  said,  contained  its 
precious  deposit. 

In  Olancho  all  was  “ silencio ,”  as  my  informants  remarked 
in  illustrating  the  political  and  natural  quiet  reigning  amid  the 
solitudes  we  were  passing. 

The  mozos  built  a fire  of  pitch-pine  knots  near  the  door,  and 
squatting  around  it,  wrapped  in  their  serapes,  conversed  in  low 
tones,  smoking  corn -husk  cigars  the  while.  I dozed  fitfully 
through  the  night,  now  and  then  awakening  and  observing  the 
shadows  of  the  men  reflected  on  the  wall,  and  the  same  low 
hum  of  their  earnest  voices.  The  fire  gradually  burned  out, 
and  as  darkness  fell  on  the  scene,  they  stretched  themselves  on 
the  ground  to  sleep,  with  machetes  by  their  sides,  and  their 
heavy  breathing  mingling  curiously  with  the  peeping  of  a brood 
of  chickens  under  wing  in  the  corner.  About  midnight  a herd 
of  cattle  tramped  past,  and  then  all  was  quiet  but  the  crackling 
of  the  expiring  embers. 

Although  I had  ridden  since  morning  — a tiresome  jaunt 
through  the  mountain  passes — sleep  fled  from  my  eyelids.  I 
lay  wide  awake,  with  a thousand  exciting  thoughts  rambling 
through  my  mind:  the  strange  scenery  I had  passed;  the  myste- 
rious country,  the  threshold  of  which  I had  already  crossed ; the 
gold  stories  recounted  by  the  men  around  the  fire ; the  reflec- 


A SMALL  EARTHQUAKE. 


263 


tion  that,  at  last,  I had  reached  the  goal  of  my  hopes,  and  that, 
from  the  rude  accounts  of  the  simple  natives  around  me,  the 
Guayape,  rich  as  it  was  represented  in  the  precious  metal,  was 
by  no  means  the  only  “gold  river”  of  Olancho — these  were 
the  thoughts  that  kept  me  turning  uneasily  in  my  hammock. 
Gradually  the  ticking  of  my  watch  mixed  itself  with  the  smoth- 
ered notes  of  the  gattinitas , and  I fell  asleep  to  dream  of  Cali- 
fornia and  friends  far  away  among  its  deep  gullies  and  mount- 
ain forests. 

Suddenly  a low  rumbling,  like  the  discharge  of  distant  artil- 
lery, awoke  me.  The  dog  sprang  to  his  feet.  As  the  sound 
was  repeated,  accompanied  by  a jarring  of  my  hammock,  I re- 
membered that  we  were  in  the  region  of  earthquakes,  though 
these  were  almost  as  rare  in  Olancho  as  in  the  United  States. 
Roberto  turned  lazily  over  on  his  hide  couch,  murmuring  “ te~ 
remoto ,”  and  fell  asleep  again  in  a moment.  Seeing  how  un- 
concerned my  companions  were,  I concluded  there  could  be  no 
danger,  but  a moment  after  the  house  rocked  and  trembled  to 
its  foundation.  All  hands  jumped  up  at  this  second  shock, 
ejaculating  “ Dios  ! que  es  este  f”  and  the  dog  emitted  a long, 
dismal  howl ; but  the  motion,  which  seemed  a horizontal  one, 
was  not  repeated.  The  tremblings  felt  in  Honduras  at  rare  in- 
tervals are  rather  undulations  from  convulsions  taking  place  in 
the  neighboring  states.  There  are  no  evidences  of  volcanic  erup- 
tions between  Tegucigalpa  and  the  sea-coast  to  the  northward. 

A cold  fog,  more  like  those  of  Newfoundland  than  of  tropical 
climates,  hung  like  a pall  over  mountain  and  forest  as  we  issued 
from  the  hut  in  the  morning.  I wrapped  my  jponcho  around 

me,  and  repaired  with  L to  a neighboring  hill  to  sketch  the 

village.  “Is  this  your  boasted  heavenly  climate  of  Olancho?” 
I asked.  He  laughed  as  he  buttoned  his  coat,  and  remarked, 
“ Take  care  you  don’t  get  into  one  of  our  sierra  hail-squalls  be- 
fore you  get  back!”  a remark  I was  then  disposed  to  dismiss 
with  a smile,  but  which  in  after  experience  became  a frigid  real- 
ity. The  thermometer  indicated  58°  Fahrenheit. 

While  our  scanty  breakfast  was  preparing,  I had  collected 
around  me  a swarthy  group  of  the  villagers,  and  by  a few  trai- 
gitas  of  aguardiente,  and  an  encouraging  word  or  two  of  queries, 
led  them  into  a narration  of  some  of  the  principal  gold  localities 


264 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


PLATINAL  IN  THE  CAMP  AMEN  TO  MOUNTAINS. 

of  the  region.  One  old  woman  was  brought  forward  who  had 
dug  in  one  day  eight  pounds  of  gold ! another  who  had  con- 
tributed four  pounds  of  the  precious  metal  toward  building  the 
church  at  Jutecalpa.  One  vociferous  brawny  fellow  dragged 
forward  a bright-eyed  girl,  who  had,  within  a few  months,  dug 
and  sold  at  Lepaguare  a solid  piece  of  gold  weighing  three 
ounces.  Old  beldames,  with  bleared  eyes  and  gray,  straggling- 
hair,  gravely  recounted  the  time-honored  legends  of  the  coun- 
try, mingled  with  musty  recollections  of  their  own  personal 
strokes  of  fortune.  Some  smoked  the  wild  tobacco,  or,  squatting 
on  their  hams,  gazed  with  their  piercing  eyes  upon  me,  turning 
from  time  to  time  to  each  other  with  some  low-muttered  remark. 
I hugged  my  serape  close  about  me,  turned  toward  the  piling- 
mountains  to  the  southward,  and  tried  to  realize  the  scene. 
Could  it  be  that  these  poor  creatures,  apparently  destitute  of 
the  faculty  of  invention,  were  seeking  to  deceive  me  in  the  hope 
of  a reward  proportioned  to  the  enlargement  of  their  stories  ? I 
listened  to  their  strange  narrations,  and  looked  into  their  mean- 
ingless faces,  as  one  suddenly  aroused  from  a dream  to  the  real- 
ity of  a scene  in  the  “Arabian  Nights.” 

L observed  my  puzzled  look.  “These,”  said  he,  “are 

the  gold-diggers.  Are  you  incredulous,  senor  ?” 


LAS  LAVADERAS. 


265 


“No,”  I replied;  “their  account,  if  not  entirely  fabulous, 
which  I am  not  to  suppose,  must  be  based  upon  experience,  but 
I shall  be  glad  to  see  for  myself.” 

“Wait,  then,  only  till  we  reach  the  foot-hills  of  Olancho.” 

I was  still  curious,  however,  to  avail  myself  as  far  as  possi- 
ble of  the  present  opportunity,  and  again  addressed  the  women, 
who  appeared  indifferent,  but  not  reluctant,  to  answer  my  in- 
quiries. I touched  disparagingly  the  coarse  rag  which  partially 
covered  her  bony  shoulders,  and  asked  of  one,  “Why  do  you 
not  buy,  you  who  dig  this  gold  ?” 

“I  am  old,  senor  ; my  hands  are  no  longer  strong.  I go  but 
seldom  now  to  the  ravines  and  rivers.” 

“ The  good  old  colony  times  are  no  more,”  said  another,  ap- 
parently the  oldest  of  the  group. 

“But  what  has  become  of  the  gold  you  acquired  in  those 
times  ?” 

“ Had  we  not  our  children  to  support  ?”  cried  one. 

“The  Church!”  “The  Blessed  Virgin!”  “The  padres!”, 
chimed  in  half  a dozen ; and,  crossing  themselves  hurriedly,  they 
resumed  then-  smoking  with  the  self-satisfied  air  of  having  per- 
formed the  highest  duty. 

One  old  beldame,  sitting  a little  apart,  turned  toward  me  when 
the  rest  were  silent,  and  said,  with  a sly  look,  “We  do  not 
show  all  our  gold,  senor.” 

“And  why?”  I asked. 

She  laughed.  “The  government  would  rob  us.” 

Here  was  something  like  the  systematic  beggary  of  New 
York.  Pressing  the  matter  a little  farther,  I asked,  “ Do  you 
bury  your  gold  ?” 

She  took  a long  whiff,  and  would  say  no  more. 

“ It  is  useless,”  said  L ; “they  will  never  divulge  such 

a secret,  unless,  indeed,  you  should  perform  some  wonderful  cure 
among  their  sick.  In  that  case  there  would  be  no  limit  to  their 
gratitude.  But  of  one  thing,  my  friend,  be  certain,  we  are  now 
actually  in  the  gold  district  of  the  Guayape.” 

I asked  L if  he  himself  believed  these  women. 

“ I have  lived  in  Plonduras,”  he  replied,  “ to  the  age  of  thir- 
ty years,  and  I have  always  heard  such  accounts  of  this  region, 
but  I have  never  been  here  until  now ; but  standing  here  with 


266 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


you,  the  purport  of  whose  visit  is  to  throw  open  these  resources 
to  your  own  countrymen,  I realize  the  enthusiasm  with  which 
my  fellow-citizen,  the  great  Morazan,  always  spoke  of  Olancho. 
He  detested  the  English,  but  was  always  favorable  to  the  en- 
terprises of  the  Americans  and  French.” 

From  what  I could  learn,  I judged  that  the  principal  depos- 
its of  gold  were  not  in  the  sierras,  but  below,  among  the  foot- 
hills of  the  Campamento  Mountains,  to  the  northeast.  Still,  as 
the  Rio  Concordia  flowed  near  by,  I persuaded  my  new  acquaint- 
ances to  go  with  me  there  and  wash  a few  bateas,  or  wooden 
bowls  of  sand ; the  gold  hunting  is  now  mainly  confined  to 
separating  the  finer  particles  from  the  river  sands. 

We  walked  about  half  a mile  to  the  stream,  and  two  women 
proceeded  to  fill  their  bowls  with  sand — not  taken  from  the  bot- 
tom of  pits,  or  “ holes,”  as  in  California  (where  the  gold  is  found 
to  work  through  the  superincumbent  mass  to  the  bed  rock),  but 
ignorantly  and  carelessly  scraped  up  together.  In  a few  min- 
utes the  contents  had  been  reduced  by  the  California  “pan- 
ning” process  to  about  two  spoonfuls  of  black  sand,  among  which 
I detected  the  “ color,”  or  a few  minute  specimens  of  gold,  their 
aggregate  value  probably  not  over  two  cents. 

But  even  these  infinitesimal  proofs  of  the  wealth  concealed  in 
the  rocky  fastnesses  around  and  beyond  affected  me  more  deep- 
ly than  I could  have  anticipated.  I sat  down,  and,  heedless  of 
the  swarthy  little  group  around  me,  indulged  in  a revery  that 
conjured  up  rainbow-tinted  visions,  which  but  twice  in  my  life- 
time I have  dared  entertain.  Busy  thought  began  to  people 
those  gray  heights,  and  I fancied  the  surrounding  solitudes  re- 
echoing the  din  of  sturdy  toil  and  the  rattle  of  machinery.  In- 
voluntarily I sprang  to  my  feet,  and  felt  almost  disappointed  at 
again  realizing  the  presence  of  the  listless  creatures  about  me. 
But  this  was  no  time  for  romance.  Returning  to  the  village, 
we  mounted  our  mules,  and,  amid  the  hearty  “Adios  /”  of  the 
natives,  commenced  the  descent  toward  the  great  plateaus  or 
table-lands  of  the  valley  of  the  Guayape. 

Eveiy  step  took  us  rapidly  downward  from  among  the  bar- 
ren, pine-clad  mountains  through  which,  for  the  past  week,  we 
had  made  but  painful  and  wearisome  progress  toward  a vale  of 
bright- waving  verdure,  which,  contemplated  from  our  elevated 


GLIMPSE  OF  THE  PROMISED  LAND. 


267 


position,  possessed  all  the  charms  of  rural  and  quiet  beauty. 
We  followed  the  course  of  the  sparkling  Guayapita,  or  little 
Guayape,  which  we  knew  emptied  into  the  larger  river  below. 
Elate  with  the  new  and  beautiful  views  ever  and  anon  opening 
toward  the  eastward,  we  plunged  along,  now  slipping  with  the 
rolling  stones,  or  grasping  some  overhanging  branch  to  retard 
the  too  rapid  descent.  The  mules,  weary  as  ourselves  of  the 
inhospitable  region  we  had  passed,  seemed  to  gaze  wistfully  at 
the  enchanting  prospect,  at  times  stopping  abruptly  to  cull  the 
delicate  blades  of  grass  which  began  to  border  the  path,  and  de- 
liberately leaving  the  track,  despite  our  impatient  shouts  and 
unsparing  blows. 

A clear  blue  sky  spanned  the  landscape,  to  which  a balmy 
southerly  wind,  creeping  softly  among  the  trees,  imparted  just 
enough  life  to  detract  from  the  almost  too  sleepy  stillness  of  the 
prospect.  Knowing  that  before  night  we  could  reach  Lepaguare, 
we  stopped  on  several  occasions  to  make  sketches  of  pretty  lit- 
tle scenes,  and  rare  and  strange  trees.  Presently  we  came  to 
the  banks  of  a rapid  stream,  which,  taking  its  rise  in  the  Tiupa- 
cente  Mountains  toward  Yuscaran,  flows  to  the  northeast,  and 
discharges  into  the  Guayape  about  twelve  leagues  from  Jute- 
calpa.  This  we  afterward  learned  was  the  Almendarez,  on  the 
head-waters  of  which  some  of  the  largest  specimens  of  pure  gold 
ever  found  in  Olancho  had  been  taken  out. 

Disposed  as  I was  to  reach  the  goal  of  my  hopes,  I could  not 
refrain  from  pausing  to  procure  a sketch  of  the  river.  Here  we 
first  saw  the  famous  cattle  of  Olancho  : fat,  sleek  creatures  they 
were,  feeding  knee-deep  in  grass  and  flowering  clover,  their  lazy 
motions  just  discernible  on  the  opposite  bank,  and  seen  through 
the  interstices  of  the  carbon  hedge,  whose  dark,  glutinous  leaves 
contrasted  prettily  with  the  feathery  foliage  of  the  palms  over- 
looking them  beyond. 

The  scenery,  as  we  advanced,  exceeded  any-  thing  I had  ever 
seen,  both  for  softness  of  outline  and  splendor  of  coloring.  On 
the  plain  I found  myself  traversing  a prairie,  varied  with  broad 
undulations,  and  covered  with  deep  grass  and  flowers.  Herds 
of  cattle,  droves  of  horses,  and  the  much-prized  mules  of  Olan- 
cho, gave  life  and  variety  to  every  new  opening  of  the  view. 
They  indicated  the  source  of  that  primitive  wealth  and  prosper- 


268 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ity  which  has  given  rule  and  continuance  in  this  rich  nook  of 
the  earth  to  the  aristocratic  blood  of  Spain.  At  intervals  the 
distant  but  familiar  cry  of  the  vaquero , or  herdsman,  dispelled 
the  sense  of  loneliness  attending  the  traveler  in  new  scenes. 
All  around  me  a blue  horizon  of  mountains,  embracing  a wide 
landscape  breathed  on  by  the  afternoon  wind,  and  retiring  with 
richest  verdure  into  the  hues  of  autumn,  brought  vividly  to  mind 
the  scenery  of  California,  where  the  foot-hills  of  the  sierras  de- 
cline westward  as  do  these  northward.  An  ocean  of  gold  and 
green  undulating  in  the  purple  tints  of  sunset ! 


CHAPTER  XY. 

The  Sensitive  Plant. — Perns. — Fleur  de  Lis. — Bay-trees. — Rio  Almendarez. — 
La  Lima. — Rio  Guayape. — Hacienda  de  San  Juan. — Valley  of  Lepaguare. — 
An  Olancho  Cattle  Estate. — Lepaguare.— General  Zelaya. — Our  Reception. — 
An  Illumination. — Conversations. — Political  Condition  of  Olancho. — Topog- 
raphy of  the  Department. — Map-making. — Equestrian  Excursions. — The  Cli- 
mate.— Popular  Bugbears. — A Landscape. — Route  to  the  Guayape. — Aspect 
of  the  Country. — Valley  of  the  Guayape. — “El  Murcielego.” — “Las  Lavade- 
ras.” — Gold  Washing. — Old  Machinery. — Native  Geography. — “LaMaquina.” 
— Making  a Gold-rocker. — The  first  Cradle  in  Olancho. — Rich  Diggings. — 
Great  Excitement  among  the  Natives. — Evidences  of  old  Mines  and  Aborig- 
inal Workings. — The  Buccaneers. — A Gallop  to  Barroza. — The  five  Brothers 
Zelaya. — Writing  a History. 

While  L was  preparing  his  sketch-book,  and  Roberto 

and  Victor  smoking  cigarros  under  the  neighboring  shade,  I 
dismounted  to  examine  some  strange  vines  and  bushes  with 
leaves,  which  I at  first  mistook  for  a species  of  fern.  A recent 
overflow  of  the  river  had  buried  the  stems  for  some  distance 
under  the  sand,  from  which,  with  a vigorous  jerk,  I attempted 
to  exhume  them.  In  a moment  the  entire  vine  presented  a 
spectacle  so  remarkable  that  I involuntarily  sprang  back,  half 
alarmed  at  what  I saw.  The  leaves,  which  spread  out  like 
whiskers  on  each  side  of  the  stem,  slowly  contracted,  and  fold- 
ed themselves  together,  as  if  offended  at  my  rude  handling. 

L , who  was  seated  on  his  mule,  turned  at  my  exclamation, 

and,  bursting  into  a laugh,  probably  amused  at  my  grotesque 
attitude,  shouted,  uIa  planta  sensitiva  J” 


THE  SENSITIVE  PLANT. 


269 


The  wonder  was  explained,  and  I now  found,  for  the  first 
time,  that  the  plant  was  common  in  all  the  table  and  low  lands 

of  Central  America  ; but,  as  L remarked,  it  was  rarely 

seen  in  such  quantities  as  here.  The  vines  formed  complete 
mats  and  hedges  for  some  distance  along  the  river  banks.  At 
intervals  could  be  seen  the  sensitivc-^ra?,  standing  twelve  or 
sixteen  feet  in  height,  and  resembling  the  vine  in  its  leaves  and 
irritable  disposition.  I picked  up  a stick  from  among  the  de- 
bris, and  dealt  the  trank  a smart  blow,  when  not  only  the 
leaves  shrunk  away,  but  the  lesser  twigs  inclined  visibly  to- 
ward the  parent  stem. 

After  remounting  I passed  through  thick  mats  of  the  sensi- 
tive vine,  forming  a kind  of  layer,  extending,  crust-like,  a foot 
above  the  ground,  through  which  our  mules  were  continually 
crushing.  The  ground  seemed  to  squirm  with  some  invisible 
creatures,  the  crinkling  of  the  hoofs  through  the  mass  rather 
adding  to  the  naturalness  of  the  conceit. 

In  the  denser  portion  of  the  woods  through  which  we  passed 
appeared  the  fern,  or  common  brake,  of  a small  species,  with 
dark,  thickly-studded  serrated  leaves,  almost  the  veritable  fern 
of  the  North.  Growing  in  tufts,  it  mingled  freely  with  the 
grass  and  prickly  vines  which  every  where  spread  themselves 
under  the  trees. 

Here,  too,  we  saw  specimens  of  the  fleur  de  Us  bordering  the 
small  streams  on  our  route.  The  flower,  I believe,  differs  little 
from  that  of  Europe  and  North  America.  I saw  some  of  them 
at  an  elevation  of  more  than  1500  feet  above  the  sea.  The  bay- 
tree,  or  laurel,  was  also  frequently  seen,  and  here  attains  a great- 
er height  than  at  the  North,  reaching  sometimes  40  feet.  The 
trunk  is  knotty,  and  in  the  woods  often  shrouded  with  a thin  lay- 
er of  moss,  but  smooth  and  clean  in  the  open  country.  The  bark, 
which  is  half  an  inch  thick,  is  white  and  soft,  and  of  a corky  tex- 
ture, possessing  slightly  the  pungent  taste,  and  affecting  the  ol- 
factories like  sal  volatile.  The  lam-el  is  often  used  in  making- 
axle-trees  for  caretas , being  one  of  the  hardest  and  most  easily- 
worked  woods  in  the  country.  It  also  burns  brightly.  Viewed 
from  a short  distance,  the  laurel  of  Olancho  makes  a sightly 
tree,  as  the  branches,  though  irregular,  are  thickly  studded  with 
smooth,  shining  leaves,  affording  a deep  shade,  which  in  Cen- 


270 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


tral  America  endures  the  year  round.  The  tree  aftects  damp 
or  wet  places,  where  it  grows  luxuriantly.  I saw  no  flower  or 
huds  upon  them,  hut  have  no  doubt  they  are  identical  with  the 
Northern  bay- tree. 

The  Almendarez  is  counted  among  the  gold  rivers  of  the  De- 
partment, but  the  large  specimens  before  referred  to  were  found 
high  up  at  its  sources.  I did  not  learn  that  any  remarkable 
good  luck  had  attended  the  lavaderas  at  or  near  the  place  where 
we  crossed,  which  was  about  two  leagues  from  Campamento. 
Here  we  missed  the  trail,  and  had  reached  the  little  hacienda  of 
La  Lima,  owned  by  one  of  the  Zelayas,  when  a couple  of  strap- 


HACIENDA  OF  LA  LIMA. 

ping  natives  met  us,  and,  understanding  that  we  were  visitors  of 
“Don  Chico,”  as  the  general  is  affectionately  termed  by  the  peo- 
ple, very  readily  directed  us  to  Lepaguare,  where  their  old  patron 
was  at  present  residing.  We  retraced  our  steps  to  La  Lima, 
and,  taking  the  right  path,  pursued  our  journey  at  a rapid  trot 
through  scenery  already  described.  After  an  hour  we  came  out 
upon  the  broad  and  placid  Guayape  itself,  flowing  silently  toward 
the  sea,  and  presenting,  even  at  that  far-inland  point,  tire  appear- 
ance of  a formidable  stream,  not  less  than  thirty  yards  wide. 


VALLEY  OF  LEPAGUARE. 


271 


At  this  season  it  is  three  and  a half  feet  deep  at  the  ford,  and 
above  this  place  receives  the  waters  of  several  small  rivers,  as 
my  map  indicates.  We  entered  and  crossed,  wetting  our  saddle- 
cloths above  the  mules’  bellies.  Flowing  through  a plain  of 
slightly  undulating  country,  there  are  no  rapids  in  this  vicinity. 
The  river  was  exceedingly  clear,  and  the  yellow  sand  forming 
the  bottom  imparted  to  the  waters  a curious  but  beautiful  am- 
ber hue.  Its  course  is  to  the  eastward,  forming  below  this  ford 
an  extensive  semicircle,  nearly  inclosing  the  entire  Zelaya  es- 
tates, and  trending  thence  to  the  northeast,  where,  after  receiving 
the  waters  of  the  Guayambre,  a river  nearly  as  large  as  the 
Guayape,  it  assumes  its  coast  name  of  Patook  or  Patuca. 

From  the  ford  we  pursued  our  route  to  the  northeast,  and, 
passing  the  hacienda  of  San  Juan,  also  the  property  of  the  Ze- 
layas,  we  entered  an  extensive  plain  or  valley  hemmed  in  by  low 
mountain  ranges,  and  known  as  the  Valley  of  Lepaguare.  It  is 
a park  of  verdure,  springing  from  a deep  rich  soil,  wide  enough 
to  sustain  the  population  of  a commercial  and  agricultural  state. 
To  the  northward  stood  the  great  cattle  estate  of  Lepaguare, 
one  of  the  several  belonging  to  Don  Francisco  Zelaya,  general 
of  brigade  and  “ commandante  militar”  of  the  Department  of 


HACIENDA  OF  LEPAGUARE. 


272 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Olancho,  as  my  letters  of  introduction  to  him  indicated.  The 
hacienda  was  hacked  by  feathery  foliage,  but  faced  an  exten- 
sive open  space,  over  which  my  little  cavalcade  was  advancing. 
The  declining  sun  cast  lengthy  shadows  along  the  greensward, 
the  plain  extending  miles  away,  and  dotted  with  countless  cattle. 
I had  been  prepared,  from  previous  accounts,  for  a scene  of  rare 
loveliness  ; this  was  the  reality. 

Grouped  trees  stood  far  removed  along  the  valley ; the  low- 
ing of  herds  was  borne  faintly  on  the  evening  wind ; voices,  al- 
most lost  in  the  distance,  came  from  the  hacienda ; a few  horse- 
men appeared  like  specks  on  the  plain.  We  spurred  up  the 
mules,  and  Victor  shouted  with  delight ; for  myself,  I could  only 
gaze  and  admire.  A crowd  of  children,  laughing  and  scream- 
ing, thronged  about  the  gate,  but  ran  hastily  away  as  we  ap- 
proached. Wild  mares  and  half-broken  mules,  fastened  by  hide 
tethers  to  logs,  snorted  and  started  as  we  jingled  past ; a noble 
black  stud,  with  mane  and  tail  flowing  in  the  breeze,  sprang 
away  over  the  soft  carpet  of  grass  at  the  rattle  of  our  spurs ; 
wild-looking  cows  “blew”  at  us  as  we  neared  them.  Crossing 
the  jpatio  in  front  of  the  house,  we  drew  up  at  the  door.  The 
hacienda,  though  the  largest  and  best  kept  in  the  country,  is  not 
an  unfair  specimen  of  any  of  the  principal  cattle  estates  of 
Olancho. 

The  placid-looking  old  Indian  women  engaged  ^bout  the  prem- 
ises gazed  curiously  at  us  as  we  stopped,  and  a splendidly  ca- 
parisoned horse,  with  silver-mounted  machillas,  pistoleras,  and 
crimson  mantillas , sidled  proudly  away  from  our  shaggy  mount- 
ain mules.  The  door  opened,  and  several  men,  clad  in  loose 
cotton  pantaloons  and  shirt,  looked  out  as  we  dismounted. 

‘•'•Adios,  amigos /”  said  L . 

“ Buenos  dias,  Caballeros  /”  replied  half  a dozen  voices.  The 
master  of  the  house,  the  venerable  Don  Francis  Zelaya,  then 
appeared,  and  stepping  slowly  down,  with  the  peculiar  gait  of 
portly  persons,  advanced  to  meet  us,  and  in  another  moment  had 

grasped  L and  myself  warmly  by  the  hand,  and  placed  his 

house  and  all  in  it  at  our  disposition. 

We  found  in  our  host  a fair  type  of  the  descendant  of  the  old 
Spanish  hidalgos,  a lover  of  good  cheer,  jolly  company,  and  fine 
horses.  He  takes  no  pride  in  his  hospitality : it  is  at  once  a 


DON  FRANCISCO  ZELAYA. 


273 


duty  and  a pleasure,  and  the  rude  accommodations  of  his  resi- 
dence are  ever  open  to  the  wayfarer.  It  may  be  imagined  that, 
with  testimonials  from  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth,  even 
California,  and  bearing  letters  from  the  governor  and  other  dig- 
nitaries, to  say  nothing  of  those  from  the  President  of  Honduras 
and  Nicaragua,  my  reception  was  marked  with  a cordiality  not 
to  be  forgotten. 

The  general’s  limited  knowledge  of  such  matters  made  it  dif- 
ficult for  him  to  mark  the  geographical  or  political  distinctions 
of  foreign  lands,  and  my  letters  from  Governor  Bigler,  of  Cali- 
fornia, he  regarded  as  conferring  diplomatic  powers  upon  their 
bearer.  To  him  the  Golden  State  was  a separate  republic, 
and  its  executive  a democratic  emperor,  clad  in  robes  of  splen- 
dor, and  rolling  in  luxury  and  gold  dust ! 

Senor  Don  Chico  is  literally  “monarch  of  all  he  surveys.” 
He  is  tall  and  handsome,  with  a portly  figure  and  commanding 
aspect,  blue  eyes,  square  forehead,  and  crisp,  curling  hair  of  iron- 
gray.  In  the  affairs  of  his  own  country  he  does  not  lack  sagac- 
ity or  knowledge.  There  are  five  brothers,  whose  families,  re- 
siding in  and  occupying  by  royal  grant  this  portion  of  Olancho, 
are  known  far  and  wide  as  “los  Zelayas.”  The  early  settlement 
of  the  department  by  their  ancestor,  Senor  Don  Jeronimo  Ze- 
laya,  and  the  political  position  of  affairs  subsisting  in  the  coun- 
try since  its  first  occupation  by  the  Spaniards,  I shall  make  the 
subject  of  a future  sketch. 

We  entered  the  house,  and  were  presented  to  the  sefiora,  who 
arose  from  a bed  of  sickness  to  receive  us,  and  to  the  only 
daughter  of  the  general,  a tall,  raven-haired  muchacha , who  was 
evidently  mistress  of  the  mansion.  The  eldest  son,  Don  To- 
ribio,  was  on  his  way  from  Truxillo  with  a mule-train  loaded 
with  cotton  goods,  the  supplying  of  which  to  the  inhabitants  of 
this  section  the  general  monopolizes. 

The  whole  hacienda  was  speedily  in  motion  with  the  import- 
ant event  of  our  arrival.  Had  I been  a public  embassador 
rather  than  a private  citizen,  I could  not  have  been  received 
with  greater  demonstrations  of  respect.  A flank  and  quarter 
of  kid  was  put  to  roast  for  us,  a fat  bullock  slaughtered  at  the 
sacrificial  stake,  vegetables  from  the  neighboring  garden,  pickles 
with  Underwood’s  brand,  via  Truxillo,  from  Boston,  hot  coffee, 

S 


274 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


tortillas , wheaten  and  corn  bread,  and  wild  honey,  were  among 
the  eatables  placed  upon  the  table. 

These  matters  over,  my  letters  of  introduction  were  carefully 
read  by  the  general.  As  the  old  gentleman  pored  over  them 

with  a gratified  air,  L and  myself  noticed  his  resemblance 

to  a distinguished  member  of  the  cabinet  of  President  Pierce. 
Don  Chico  is  a great  rogue  among  the  women,  and  the  remark- 
able similarity  to  be  traced  in  the  features  of  several  coffee-col- 
ored urchins  running  about  the  hacienda  led  me  to  suspect  that 
they  might  claim  a close  relationship  to  our  entertainer.  He 
yet  enjoys  his  waltz  and  cotillon  in  the  funcion  at  Jutecalpa 
with  the  youngest  and  gayest  rake  in  the  town. 

Toward  night  I observed  the  muchachos  of  the  estate,  number- 
ing, I should  think,  above  twenty,  bringing  in  bundles  of  fagots, 
dried  grass,  and  branches,  which  they  deposited  in  heaps  through- 
out the  extensive  patio.  As  darkness  fell  over  the  landscape, 
these  were  covered  with  pitch-pine  logs  and  lighted.  The 
whole  hacienda  was  speedily  in  a blaze  of  light.  It  was  an  il- 
lumination in  honor  of  Don  Guillermo.  Simple  and  rude  as 
was  the  testimonial,  I recognized  the  kindness  of  Don  Francisco, 
and  saw  in  it  a forerunner  of  future  hospitality.  He  seemed 
really  delighted  that  the  “ silencio”  of  his  life  was  to  be  a while 
interrupted  by  las  ultimas  noticias  from  the  outer  world. 

He  seemed  to  take  peculiar  interest  in  my  accounts  of  the 
progress  of  California,  asking  the  most  minute  questions  as  to 
the  methods  of  working  the  mines,  the  mineral  laws,  govern- 
ment, climate,  and  people. 

“Ah!  my  friend,”  said  he,  “God  grant  that  some  of  the 
hardy  and  intelligent  men  you  describe  may  visit  this  lonely 
spot,  and  show  us  how  to  extract  the  gold  which,  in  our  igno- 
rance, we  are  daily  walking  over!”  Such  a remark,  coming 
from  the  principal  man  of  the  department,  was  to  me  a conclu- 
sive evidence  of  his  desire  to  introduce  industrious  Americans 
into  Olancho  for  the  development  of  the  gold  placers.  The  in- 
fluence of  the  Zelayas  is  all  that  is  necessary  for  the  accom- 
plishment of  my  project,  and  I addressed  myself  at  once  to  se- 
curing his  co-operation  and  assistance. 

Although  Olancho  is  an  integral  part  of  the  republic  of  Hon- 
duras, its  geographical  position  is  such  as  to  have  partially  ex- 


A MODEL  KEPUBLIC. 


275 


eluded  it  from  a participation  in  the  wars  since  the  independ- 
ence. Its  distinct  interests  and  secluded  situation  have  led  the 
people  to  avoid  as  much  as  possible  any  but  a very  limited  po- 
litical contact  with  the  supreme  government,  a course  which  has 
more  than  once  led  to  hostilities  between  Olancho  and  the  rest, 
of  the  republic.  These  contests,  never  very  severe  or  bloody, 
besides  resulting  favorably  to  the  Olancfianos,  have  disclosed 
to  them  their  ability  to  repel  attack,  and  their  real  independ- 
ence of  the  supreme  government.  The  proposition  has  repeat- 
edly been  made  to  form  a separate  republic ; but  with  the  yield- 
ing of  the  government  to  their  demands,  and  a promise  not  to 
attempt  the  levying  of  taxes  or  conscriptions  for  soldiers  in 
Olancho,  the  people,  at  best  too  indolent  and  easy  in  their  hab- 
its to  attempt  a revolution,  have  acquiesced  in  the  old  estab- 
lished government. 

Thus,  while  General  Zelaya  is  the  governor  of  the  depart- 
ment by  supreme  appointment,  he  is  actually  at  the  head  of  a 
local  democracy,  placed  there  by  the  spontaneous  will  of  the 
natives,  and  from  which,  were  it  bold  enough  to  conceive  such 
a proceeding,  the  supreme  power  would  scarcely  venture  to  re- 
move him.  The  government  is  thus  a very  compact  and  well- 
established  despotism — a little  republic  within  a republic,  with 
a few  forms  of  election  to  gratify  the  middle  classes  or  depend- 
ents upon  the  great  landholders. 

This  middle  class,  especially  in  the  vicinity  and  south  of 
Jutecalpa,  consists  chiefly  of  the  relatives  of  the  Zelavas  by  de- 
scent or  intermarriage,  a large  and  powerful  family,  owning  es- 
tates comprising  some  of  the  most  valuable  mineral  and  agri- 
cultural lands  in  Olancho,  and,  in  the  aggregate,  overshadowing 
all  other  landholders  in  the  country.  A glance  at  the  map  will 
illustrate  the  extent  of  territory  covered  by  their  grants,  in 
which  are  contained  gold  placers  rivaling  those  of  California, 
and  producing  spontaneously  many  of  the  most  valuable  trop- 
ical products. 

The  formation  of  a contract  between  the  proprietors  of  these 
rich  mineral  lands  and  an  association  of  intelligent  Americans 
should  seem  to  result  in  throwing  open  the  mines  to  capital  and 
labor,  and  the  mutual  benefit  of  all. 

To  my  surprise,  the  general  listened  to  my  proposals  with 


276 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


pleasure,  but  declined  entering  at  once  into  negotiations.  He 
wished  me  first  to  ride  with  him  and  his  vaguer  os  over  the  coun- 
try, and  become  familiar  with  its  features  and  resources.  Ac- 
cordingly, I bent  myself  to  the  task  of  surveying,  map-making, 
collecting  information,  and  journeying  at  intervals  from  Jute- 
calpa,  the  capital,  toward  the  numerous  localities  more  or  less 
famous  in  its  vicinity,  and  toward  the  great  coast  savannas. 

My  chief  object  after  my  coveted  contract  was  to  obtain  a 
correct  map  of  a country  the  topography  of  which  has  remained 
unknown,  and  which  desperate  map  - makers  have  filled  with 
mountains,  towns,  and  rivers  having  no  existence,  not  even  in 
their  own  imaginations,  but  placed  ad  libitum  to  fill  unsightly 
blanks  and  nameless  regions.  With  this  view,  before  my  de- 
parture from  California  I had  prepared  from  the  Admiralty  charts 
a correct  outline  of  the  coast  from  the  Guatemalan  line  to  Costa 
Rica,  leaving  the  unknown  interior  for  my  future  explorations. 

It  was  my  custom  in  all  parts  of  Olancho  to  spread  this  upon 
the  rude  table,  and,  with  dividers  and  pocket  compass  in  hand,  to 
inquire  of  the  old  natives  the  direction  and  distance  of  certain 
places.  These  were  noted  in  pencil,  and  altered  to  meet  the 
opinions  of  the  interested  crowd,  whom  I allowed  to  dispute  and 
contradict  each  other  as  to  distance  and  course,  silently  treas- 
uring every  word,  and  gradually  filling  my  map.  This  I al- 
ways had  with  me  in  a circular  tin  case.  The  oldest  residents, 
many  of  whom  had  never  been  out  of  Olancho,  knew  with  great 
accuracy  the  names  of  every  town,  hacienda,  and  mountain  range 
in  the  department ; and  by  altering,  erasing,  comparing,  and 
adroit  questioning,  I was  enabled  in  a few  months  to  obtain  a 
pretty  correct  map  of  the  gold  region.  Of  course,  it  was  neces- 
sary to  make  every  allowance  for  inaccuracy  in  distances,  one 
man’s  mile  being  another’s  league  in  Olancho  ; but  by  carefully 
noting  the  positions  from  all  parts  of  the  country  of  prominent 
peaks,  such  as  those  of  Tiupacente,  Monte  Rosa,  Aguacate,  El 
Boqueron,  and  Guaymaca,  all  far  removed  from  each  other,  and 
lofty  landmarks  every  where  visible,  I could  compare  the  va- 
rious bearings,  and  correct  with  some  degree  of  certainty  the  er- 
rors consequent  upon  so  rough  a reconnaissance.  I,  moreover, 
traveled  “note-book  in  hand,”  and  allowed  nothing  worthy  of 
note  to  escape  me. 


CLIMATE  AND  SCENERY. 


277 


My  first  visit  with  the  general  to  any  mining  locality  was  to 
the  “bar”  on  the  Guayape,  a few  leagues  south  of  Lepaguare, 
and  known  as  El  Murcielago , or  the  Bat.  My  kind  friend,  al- 
ways alive  to  my  comfort,  ordered  to  be  saddled  for  me  a fine 
Guatemalan  horse,  his  own  pet,  and,  discarding  my  hard  mount- 
ain albardo,  replaced  it  with  a luxurious  Mexican  saddle.  L 

and  a favorite  vaquero,  by  name  Julio,  completed  the  party  of 
four.  The  morning  was  actually  cold,  though  the  blue  vault 
overhead  looked  mild  and  soft  as  an  Italian  sky.  The  general 
insisted  on  my  testing  the  quality  of  some  aguardiente  upon 
which  he  rather  prided  himself.  It  had  come  from  Tegucigalpa. 
We  cantered  merrily  over  the  plain  of  Lepaguare,  where  the 
brisk  air  and  wide  expanse  of  grassy  undulations  set  our  hearts 
in  tune  with  the  exhilarating  influence  of  the  hour. 

Let  no  geographer  with  indefinite  ideas  of  the  “terrible  trop- 
ics” select  the  table  districts  of  Olancho  for  the  theme  of  his 
anathemas  against  pestilential  climates.  Nothing  is  more  ab- 
surd, or  farther  from  truth,  than  our  popular  dread  of  these  un- 
known “ regions  of  the  tropics.”  The  sandy  horrors  of  Sahara 
or  the  Colorado  are  not  here.  Here  the  sun  neither  kills  the 
wanderer  nor  parches  up  his  blood ; the  earth  is  warm,  but  not 
infectious.  Throughout  all  the  new  countries  of  our  Western 
States  a local  unhealthiness  is  prevalent,  and  hard  to  be  resist- 
ed, but  scarcely  any  fevers  prevail  in  the  interior  of  Honduras. 
The  bilious  fevers  so  often  fatal  to  strangers  are  confined  to  the 
low,  damp  lands  of  the  coast. 

The  summer  or  wet  season  is  by  no  means,  as  many  suppose, 
a continued  fall  of  rains.  A succession  of  quick  showers  and 
thunder-storms,  with  intervals  of  brilliant  sunshine,  make  up  the 
season.  The  rain  will  fall  all  night  in  torrents,  with  lightning, 
thunder,  and  wind — alarming,  but  not  destroying — swelling  the 
rivers  and  their  muddy  mountain  affluents,  which  again  subside 
to  their  natural  limits  as  the  sun  bursts  forth  through  the  clouds 
of  morning  over  a landscape  richly  and  tenderly  diversified  with 
green  and  gold.  A warm  air  charms  the  sense ; the  eyes  are 
pleased,  but  not  dazzled  with  gorgeous  tints  reflected  by  the  glit- 
tering moisture,  and  the  curtain-work  of  silver  and  purple  clouds, 
fading  gradually  as  the  day  advances,  makes  these  lovely  pictures 
seem  near  and  more  familiar  to  the  beholder.  Says  the  proverb, 


278 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


‘ ‘ Olancho,  anc/io  para  entrar  angosto  para  salir  /”  “ Olanclio, 
easy  to  enter  but  hard  to  leave.”  Have  not  these  delicious 
scenes  given  rise  to  the  saying  ? 

As  I remember  how,  wearied  with  the  gray,  sober  mantle  with 
which  Nature  clothes  herself  in  the  lonely  mountains  on  the  route 
to  Tegucigalpa,  we  eagerly  precipitated  ourselves  toward  the 
glowing  landscape  spread  invitingly  below,  so,  vividly  do  I recall 
the  time,  months  afterward,  when,  turning  many  a fond,  linger- 
ing look  back,  I reluctantly  shut  out  from  view — perhaps  for- 
ever— the  peaceful  valley  of  Lepaguare. 

We  passed,  on  our  route  to  the  Murcielago,  the  haciendas  of 
Don  Jose  Manuel  Zelaya,  the  oldest  of  the  brothers,  and  also 
that  of  Don  Carlos  Zelaya,  a married  son  of  the  general.  Here 
we  met  several  well-mounted  vaqueros , herding  a number  of 
horses  and  mules.  There  is  a level  cart-road  the  entire  dis- 
tance from  Lepaguare  to  the  foot  of  the  range  of  hills  forming 
the  valley  through  which  the  Guayape  flows.  From  here  the 
road  becomes  a very  good  mule-path,  over  which  any  class  of 
machinery  can  be  packed  or  even  carted  with  slight  improve- 
ment to  the  Murcielago.  The  route  was  through  forests  of 
pines,  some  of  them  three  feet  in  diameter.  These  are  of  the 
yellow  and  white  varieties. 

During  this  trip  I noticed,  for  the  hundredth  time,  the  regu- 
larity which  gives  these  hills  their  unequaled  grace  of  form. 
The  line  of  beauty,  as  in  the  rounded  foot-hills  of  the  California 
gold  regions,  was  here  so  perceptible  that  I repeated  the  remark 
at  every  new  prospect.  Wood-crowned  and  even,  an  almost  in- 
sensible gradation,  range  beyond  range,  west,  north,  and  south 
rises  an  amphitheatre  of  grassy  elevations,  aspiring  hills,  lofty 
ranges,  and,  farther  still,  peaks  of  such  a blueness  they  seemed 
solid  ether,  as  though  the  liquid  atmosphere  had  been  mixed 
with  light  and  crystallized  in  airy  glaciers. 

The  pine  growth,  skirting  the  hills  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
seemed  well  adapted  to  milling  purposes.  As  we  passed  among 
them,  the  wind  roared  grandly  among  their  tops,  and  brought 
vividly  to  mind  similar  scenes  in  California ; but  the  pines  of 
the  uplands  are  not  comparable  in  size  with  those  of  the  North, 
though  the  gigantic  cedars  of  the  lower  country  are  the  wonder 
even  of  the  natives  themselves. 


THE  ROUTE  TO  THE  GUAYAPE. 


279 


Some  small  tributary  of  the  Quebrada  de  Garcia  was  pointed 
out  to  me  on  our  road,  where  several  women  had  washed  the 
sands  with  considerable  success.  Here  the  country  began  to 
break  up  into  canons  and  gulches,  like  those  around  the  vicinity 
of  Grass  Valley  and  French  Corral  in  California.  At  the  bot- 
tom of  these  places  appeared  slate  and  quartz  formations,  among 
which  we  noticed  where  the  gold-seekers  had  scratched , leaving- 
marks  resembling  those  made  by  some  industrious  barn-yard 
fowl  rather  than  the  sturdy  marks  of  mining  labor.  No  digging 
of  any  account  has  ever  been  done  here,  and  the  gold  is  mostly 
of  that  description  easily  washed  away  by  any  heavy  flow  of 
water.  The  general  promised  to  return  here  with  a few  lavade- 
ras , and  have  the  ground  properly  worked  under  my  directions. 

After  passing  a great  number  of  California-looking  gulches 
and  streams,  all  known  to  be  auriferous,  we  came  upon  a superb 
pine-clad  hill,  overlooking  the  valley  of  the  Guay  ape,  which  we 
heard  roaring  below,  but  as  yet  hidden  from  view  by  the  dense 
belt  of  foliage  lining  its  course.  This  was  about  five  leagues,  by 
the  vueltas  del  rio , below  the  place  where  I had  crossed  it  on 
first  entering  Olancho. 

We  pushed  impatiently  along,  the  Don  explaining  and  talk- 
ing all  the  way.  We  followed  the  ridge  to  the  southward,  seek- 
ing a cleared  space  through  which  to  descend.  From  our  posi- 
tion I noted  the  bearing  and  apparent  distance  of  the  principal 
mountain  peaks  within  thirty  leagues.  The  path  gradually 
sloped  out  into  a pretty  little  plain  about  twenty  feet  above  the 
river,  and  known  as  the  Murcielago.  Here  is  a hut  belonging 
to  Don  Chico,  and  here  it  had  been  proposed  by  Senor  Cacho 
to  erect  a small  mining  town,  under  the  auspices  of  a native 
company,  which  was  afterward  broken  up  by  some  one  of  the 
revolutions.  The  place  was  now  a mere  ruin  of  adobes  and 
branches.  A number  of  squash  and  pumpkin  vines,  the  fruit 
still  visible  among  the  old  rafters  and  rank  grass,  clambered 
around  the  place.  A herd  of  cattle  stood  lazily  browsing  in  the 
shade,  and,  with  the  audible  roaring  of  the  river  and  the  fresh- 
ness of  the  foliage,  reminded  me  of  a summer  New  England 
scene.  From  here  we  scrambled  down  to  the  river,  which  open- 
ed as  we  descended  from  amid  a grove  of  fragrant  pines,  their 
sombre  shadows  cast  full  upon  the  waters  below. 


280 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


SIUECIELAGO  EAR. 


The  echo  of  voices  among  the  rocks  farther  up  the  river  in- 
dicated the  presence  of  lavaderas , although  this  is  not  the  most 
favorable  season  for  their  labors.  We  followed  the  bank  for  a 
few  hundred  yards,  and  at  last  came  upon  a party  of  women 
gold-seekers,  splashing  about  in  the  water,  laughing  boisterously 
over  their  labor,  some  singing,  and  others  smoking  the  indispens- 
able cigarro.  They  were  standing  knee-deep,  and  each  bending- 
over  the  customary  large  circular  bowl  or  bated,  in  which  the  pre- 
cious metal  was  being  washed  out.  They  worked  slowly  and 
with  no  intelligence,  stopping  at  every  moment  to  chat  over  the 
topics  of  their  little  world,  and  performing  perhaps  one  third  as 
much  labor  as  an  American  miner.  An  offer  from  the  general, 
backed  by  myself,  to  buy  all  the  gold  they  could  wash  on  that 
day  and  the  next,  did  not  seem  to  quicken  their  operations. 

The  women  obtain  a permission  of  the  Zelayas  before  they 
can  work  the  placers ; this  formality,  which  they  scrupulously 
exact,  is  owing  to  the  family  jealousy  of  their  ancient  posses- 
sions, and  the  fear  that  any  infringement  upon  them  might  event- 
ually lead  to  the  “squatting”  of  unprincipled  persons  upon  their 
territories.  Any  such  interlopers,  it  is  true,  could  be  speedily 
ejected,  but  tire  general,  not  unwisely,  enforced  the  proverb,  “An 


LAS  LAVADERAS. 


281 


ounce  of  prevention,”  &c.  Any  women  found  washing  gold 
without  permission  were  invariably  expelled,  and  never  there- 
after allowed  to  work  on  the  estates.  These  summary  proceed- 
ings have  given  rise  to  a statement  among  the  enemies  of  los 
Zelayas  that  they  have  forced  the  lavaderas  to  pay  as  tribute  a 
portion  of  their  earnings,  which  is  untrue. 

An  immense  fat,  good-natured  Indian  woman  whispered  an 
inquiry  to  Julio  as  to  who  the  strangers  were,  to  which  he  re- 
plied that  I was  intending  to  buy  the  entire  Zelaya  posses- 
sions, and  had  come  from  California  to  view  the  gold  washings. 
They  had  all  heard  of  the  famous  land  of  gold,  and  I easily 
drew  them  into  conversation  on  the  subject.  At  my  request 
they  continued  their  labors,  from  which,  as  we  approached,  they 
had  straightened  themselves  up,  and,  throwing  their  coarse  hair 
back  from  their  faces,  shouted,  “Buenos  dias,  Don  Francisco !” 
the  general  replying  gayly  to  them  from  his  huge  Mexican 
saddle,  and  with  a peculiar  smile,  which  made  me  suspect  he 
was  a particular  favorite  with  them.  The  operation  of  washing, 
or  “ panning,”  is  precisely  similar  to  that  witnessed  among  the 
Chilenos  and  Sonorenos,  who  in  the  early  days  flocked  from 
Spanish  America  into  California.  In  several  of  the  bateas  there 
remained  not  a particle  of  gold,  or  if  any  there  were,  in  such  mi- 
nute specks  as  to  be  invisible ; in  others  there  might  be  from 
two  to  three  cents,  and  in  a very  few  perhaps  double  that  amount. 
The  particles  were  not  scale-like,  but  round  and  irregular,  aver- 
aging the  size  of  a pin-head,  and  polished  by  attrition.  One 
piece  was  taken  out  worth  above  half  a dollar.* 

* Oviedo’s  account  of  the  lavaderas  in  Veragua  is  thus  quaintly  translated  in 
Richard  Eden’s  English  version  of  that  historian,  published  in  London  in  1577  : 
“ These  washers,  for  the  most  parte,  are  the  Indian  women,  because  this  woorke 
is  of  lesse  paine  and  travayle  than  any  other.  These  women,  when  they  washe, 
are  accustomed  to  syt  by  the  water  syde,  with  theyr  legges  in  the  water  even 
up  to  the  knees,  or  lesse,  as  the  place  serveth  theyr  purpose ; and  thus  holdyng 
the  trays  with  earth  in  theyr  handes  by  ye  handles  thereof,  and  puttyng  the 
same  into  the  water,  they  move  them  rounde  about  after  the  maner  of  syft- 
yng,  with  a certayne  aptnesse,  in  such  sort  that  there  entreth  no  more  water  into 
the  trays  than  serveth  theyr  turne ; and  with  the  selfe-same  apte  movyng  of 
theyr  trays  in  the  water,  they  ever  avoyde  the  foule  water  with  the  earth  out  of 
the  one  side  of  the  vessell,  and  receyve  in  cleane  water  on  the  other  syde  there- 
of ; so  that  by  this  meanes,  by  litle  and  litle,  the  water  washeth  the  earth,  as  the 
lyghter  substaunce  of  the  trays,  and  the  golde,  as  the  heavyer  matter,  resteth  in 
the  bottome  of  the  same,  beyng  rounde  and  holowe  in  the  myddell  like  unto  a 


282 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


The  river  at  this  season  was  not  at  the  most  favorable  stage 
for  washing.  At  extreme  low  water,  pieces  weighing  five  and 
even  eight  ounces  have  been  taken  from  the  bed  at  this  point. 
I afterward  purchased  in  Jutecalpa  pieces  weighing  about  an 
ounce,  which  I took  with  me  to  California.  These  I procured 
of  the  tienderos  or  shop-keepers,  who  had  received  them  in  trade 
from  the  women.  They  had  no  reason  to  deceive  me  as  to  the 
locality  from  which  these  chisjpas  were  obtained,  and  always 
represented  them  as  coming  from  the  Guay  ape  and  its  tributa- 
ries, but  especially  from  the  foot-hills  of  the  Campamento  range 
to  the  Almacigueras,  a locality  famous  throughout  Olancho  as 
the  richest  in  the  department. 

I inquired  of  the  general  if  any  machinery  had  ever  yet  been 
introduced  into  Olancho.  “ No,”  he  replied,  “ with  the  excep- 
tion of  a box  of  it  which  has  been  at  my  hacienda  these  ten 
years,  brought  there  by  the  agent  of  Senor  Wellaes,  from  Gua- 
temala, who  once  entered  into  a contract  with  me  to  take  hold 
of  these  mines  ‘with  a will.’  The  machinery  was  constructed 
in  Boston  to  order,  shipped  to  Truxillo,  and  brought  thence  over 
the  mountains  here ; but  the  directions  were  in  English,  which 
I could  not  read.  Senor  Wellaes  died,  some  pieces  of  iron  were 
lost,  and  I confess  that  I have  not  thought  about  it  since.” 
This  bit  of  information  surprised  me,  and  I resolved  to  examine 
the  maquina  on  my  return.  I had  seen  enough  already  to  con- 
vince me  that  in  Olancho  there  is  another  California,  but  that, 
like  that  country,  the  glittering  treasures  of  the  soil  must  re- 
main as  they  have  been  since  the  creation  until  a race  superior 
in  energy  and  activity  succeed  to  the  inheritance. 

I also  saw  that  no  estimate  could  ever  be  formed  of  the  mines 
under  the  present  crude  system  of  working  them,  and  that  some 
machinery,  even  were  it  the  discarded  cradle  of  California’s  ear- 
ly days,  would  be  necessary  to  make  any  reliable  experiments. 
With  this  view,  I determined  to  construct  a rocker  on  my  re- 
turn to  the  hacienda,  could  tools  and  materials  be  obtained, 
which  was  extremely  doubtful,  and  in  the  event  of  a failure  at 
such  rude  mechanism,  to  see  what  could  be  done  with  the  ma- 
quina of  the  above-mentioned  Guatemalan  adventurer. 

barbar’s  basen.  And  when  all  the  earth  is  avoyded,  and  the  golde  geathered 
togeather  in  the  bottome  of  the  tray,  they  put  it  aparte,  and  returne  to  take  more 
earth,  whiche  they  washe  contynually  as  before.” 


THE  MURCIELAGO  BAR. 


283 


We  remained  some  hours  at  the  Murcielago,  examining  and 
consulting  upon  its  advantages  as  the  site  for  a future  mining 
village  similar  to  that  of  Aleman.  A comfortable  repast  and 
smoke  under  the  trees  doubtless  added  to  the  zest  with  which 
we  viewed  the  rare  scenery  around.  Our  dinner  was  taken  at 
a point  some  five  hundred  yards  above  the  adobe  hut,  where 
the  beach  is  approached  between  causeways  of  black  rock 
dwindling  down  toward  the  water’s  edge,  and  spreading  out  into 
a smooth  beach,  where  the  tiny  surf  created  by  the  current  spark- 
led in  rims  of  silver,  breaking  among  the  grass  that  carpeted  it 
quite  to  the  river’s  brink.  The  Guayape  is  here  deep  and  si- 
lent, though  rapid,  heavy  trees  standing  at  intervals  along  the 
banks;  islands  of  rocks  and  bushes  close  “in-shore”  on  both 
sides ; layers  of  slate  and  sandstone  slanting  into  the  stream ; 
the  rays  of  the  western  sun  shedding  golden  streaks  across  the 
water,  and  small  patches  of  sunlit  woods,  interspersed  with  so- 
ber pines,  relieving  the  background.  All  was  still  as  “ a thou- 
sand years  ago.” 

The  general  course  of  the  river  is  here  to  the  N.IST.E.  Julio, 
who  had  lived  in  the  vicinity  above  thirty  years,  gave  me  the 
distance  by  bends  of  the  river  from  Las  Marias  to  Catacamas. 
He  was  familiar  with  it,  having  often  passed  the  entire  distance 
in  canoes.  I took  down  liis  figures  with  an  air  of  great  inter- 
est, and  was  afterward  amused  with  finding  that  the  aggregate 
of  Julio’s  leagues  would  take  me  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  Pa- 
took,  far  into  the  Caribbean  Sea ! I mention  this  fact,  which 
is  a fair  sample  of  the  accuracy  of  the  natives  in  matters  of  dis- 
tance, to  illustrate  the  difficulty  of  forming  a map  with  the  data 
of  the  inhabitants  for  a guide.  The  explorer  must  rely  entire- 
ly upon  his  own  observations.  As  I have  said  above,  a good 
wagon  road  can  be  easily  constructed  from  the  Murcielago,  as 
well  as  from  numerous  other  rich  localities  on  the  Guayape,  to 
Lepaguare,  from  which  point  a coach  and  six  could  be  driven 
through  Jutecalpa  as  it  now  is,  and  many  miles  below  it ; but 
the  topography,  as  well  as  the  climate,  population,  history,  and 
natural  products  of  Olancho,  although  treated  as  occasion  seem- 
ed to  require  through  these  pages,  I have  more  particularly  re- 
ferred to  in  chapters  dedicated  to  those  subjects. 

The  sun  was  far  in  the  western  horizon  when  we  turned  our 


284 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


horses  toward  Lepaguare,  and,  after  a slow  ride  in  the  darkness 
over  a country  apparently  familiar  to  my  companions,  hut  to  me 
a confused  tumble  of  hills  and  forests,  we  observed  the  distant 
lights  of  the  hacienda.  As  we  approached,  we  heard  the  jingle 
of  spurs  and  tramping  of  horses’  hoofs  ; these,  and  the  frequent- 
ly-passing forms  between  us  and  the  great  brushwood  fire  burn- 
ing in  th q patio,  showed  that  some  unusual  commotion  was  tak- 
ing place.  Don  Chico  spurred  to  the  spot,  where  were  several 
mounted  vaqueros  preparing  to  go  in  search  of  their  master, 
who,  they  thought,  might  have  been  lost  in  the  woods.  At  his 
appearance  all  dismounted,  and  the  hacienda  subsided  into  its 
wonted  quiet. 

On  the  following  morning,  after  breakfast,  I intimated  to  the 
general  my  desire  to  see  the  machine  he  had  mentioned.  Call- 
ing to  some  of  the  lounging  fellows  usually  loafing  about  the 
door,  he  ordered  to  be  dragged  from  its  hiding-place  an  old  box, 
nearly  the  size  of  a common  piano.  It  was  covered  with  cob- 
webs, and  its  cracks  swarmed  with  cockroaches  and  nondescripts 
with  “eleven  legs  and  no  heads,”  who  hastened  out  of  sight  as 
their  habitation  was  thus  rudely  disturbed. 

One  of  the  men  pried  off  the  top,  and  revealed  to  my  expect- 
ant gaze  an  intricate  mass  of  wheels,  sieves,  rollers,  strainers, 
grooved  bits  of  wood,  and  cylinders,  enough  to  puzzle  the  in- 
ventive genius  of  any  but  a practiced  machinist  to  put  together. 

The  whole  household  crowded  silently  around,  eagerly  watch- 
ing my  face,  whispering  at  intervals  to  each  other,  and  doubt- 
less admiring  the  wise  look  which,  for  the  occasion,  I was 
forced  to  assume.  In  vain  I placed  the  pieces  together,  ar- 
ranged, pulled  apart,  and  readjusted.  I might  as  well  have  un- 
dertaken to  make  a chronometer  ; but,  as  my  reputation  was  at 
stake,  I took  care  to  conceal  my  defeat,  and,  shaking  my  head 
depreciatingly,  ordered  the  boys  to  replace  the  machinery,  as  to- 
tally inapplicable  to  gold-washing.  The  general  looked  sadly 
disappointed,  and  wondered  how  Senor  Wellaes  could  ever  have 
ordered  such  a jumble  of  useless  puzzle  to  wash  gold  with. 
But,  although  my  mechanical  knowledge  was  not  equal  to  the 
maquina  of  the  Guatemalteco,  I found  in  the  box  what  I had 
in  vain  looked  for  about  the  hacienda,  boards  and  nails  enough 
for  the  construction  of  a rocker  a la  California. 


A MODEL  GOLD  MACHINE. 


285 


The  machine  above-mentioned,  I saw,  was  one  of  the  num- 
berless nameless  affairs  emanating  from  the  brains  of  inventors 
ignorant  of  the  requirements  of  mining  apparatus.  California, 
in  the  early  days,  was  full  of  them.  There  seemed  to  be  noth- 
ing within  the  range  of  possibility  or  probability  which  the  me- 
chanics of  the  Eastern  States  and  England  did  not  send  to  Cali- 
fornia. The  mule-paths  to  the  more  distant  mining  localities 
are  yet  strewed  with  them.  The  cobweb  of  wheels  and  rollers 
at  Lepaguare  was  intended  as  a sand-sifter,  and  was  apparently 
as  inapplicable  to  the  separating  of  the  precious  particles  from 
the  earth  as  a patent  churn  or  threshing-machine  would  be. 
Dear-bought  experience  has  at  last  taught  the  Californians  that 
the  great  desideratum  in  mining  machinery  for  placer-washing, 
sluicing,  or  quartz-crushing,  is  simplicity.  The  same  system 
introduced  into  Olancho  can  not  fail  to  make  available  the  glit- 
tering treasures  stored  in  its  soil,  rocks,  and  river  beds. 

The  general  placed  the  contents  of  the  box  at  my  disposal, 
and  I commenced  putting  together  a rude  machine,  such  as  was 
used  in  the  primitive  days  of  California.  A trough,  roughly 
hewed  out  of  a nispero- tree,  serving  as  a feeding-dish  for  young 
colts,  I took  as  the  body  for  the  rocker.  This  I hewed  down 
from  its  unwieldy  proportions,  and  the  viaquina  of  Senor  Wel- 
laes  furnished  the  sifter.  As  the  uncouth  affair  gradually  as- 
sumed shape  and  meaning  under  my  hands,  the  puzzled  looks 
of  the  silent  crowd  yielded  to  those  of  wonder  and  simple  de- 
light. The  women  particularly  praised  my  skill,  and  wondered 
that  a cdballero  could  also  handle  the  saw  and  hatchet.  Before 
night  my  bantling  was  completed,  and,  after  chiseling  in  huge 
letters,  “ROCKER  NO.  I.,  OLANCHO,  1854,”  with  my  initials  below, 
we  bore  the  thing  down  to  the  brook  near  the  hacienda,  and 
commenced  an  experimental  washing.  The  bed-pieces  were 
placed,  and  some  of  the  children  of  the  estate  flew,  at  the  gen- 
eral’s command,  to  carry  water  and  sand.  This  stream  is  not 
gold-bearing,  and  half  an  hour’s  labor  produced  no  sign  of  gold, 
but  the  modus  operandi  was  explained  by  the  operation. 

“ Caramba  /”  exclaimed  the  delighted  old  man;  “how  won- 
derful ! we  shall  get  gold  by  the  pound !” 

I smiled  at  his  enthusiasm,  and  reminded  him  that  this  was 
only  a primitive  method,  now  nearly  discarded  throughout  Cal- 


286 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ifornia,  having  given  place  to  a gigantic  system  of  mining,  by 
which  entire  hills  melted  away  before  the  industry  of  the  Amer- 
icans, washing  tons  of  earth  where  five  years  ago  they  washed 
panfuls ! My  audience  listened  in  silence,  and  the  general  re- 
marked, 

“Ah ! Don  Guillermo,  your  countrymen  are,  beyond  doubt, 
destined  to  rule  the  world  ; such  progress  in  the  useful  arts  is 
astonishing,  and  none  of  the  old  races  can  ever  hope  to  compete 
with  you.  I only  fear  that  your  friends  may  not  credit  the  sto- 
ries you  will  one  day  recount  of  Olancho,  and  that  the  enterpris- 
ing men  of  el  Norte  may  refuse  to  visit  us.  If  you  never  re- 
turn with  your  great  company,  I shall  feel  that  my  dear  Olancho 
will  never  become  known  to  the  world.” 

I assured  the  kind-hearted  old  man  that  many  years  would 
not  elapse  before  the  Americans  would  visit  the  country. 

We  left  the  machine  to  swell  in  the  water,  and  on  the  follow- 
ing morning  at  dawn,  a train  of  mules,  carrying  the  rocker,  pro- 
visions, and  implements,  started  for  a point  near  the  Murcielago. 
we  remaining  for  breakfast,  and  expecting  to  overtake  them  be- 
fore they  reached  the  bar.  On  our  route  we  conversed  upon  the 
numerous  gold  localities  of  the  country.  The  general  agreed 
with  me  that  not  a hundredth  part  of  the  richest  deposits  had 
yet  been  discovered,  and  that  “prospecting”  would  gradually 
develop  them.  Arrived  at  the  bar,  we  found  the  cradle  depos- 
ited after  my  instructions  carefully  on  the  bank,  and  the  na- 
tives, in  their  usual  costume  of  a shirt,  cotton  trowsers,  and  sash, 
stretched  half  asleep  under  the  trees.  In  a few  minutes  the 
machine  was  placed  and  the  operations  commenced.  For  half 
an  hour  the  men  brought  large  bowls  of  earth  from  a spot  indi- 
cated by  a lavadera  whc  accompanied  us.  Julio  rocked,  Victor 
poured  on  the  water,  the  general  berated  or  threatened  them  as 
his  excited  feelings  dictated,  all  chatted,  disputed,  and  watched 
my  every  motion,  while  I,  barefooted  and  with  pantaloons  rolled 
up,  splashed  about  in  the  river,  ever  and  anon  peeping  into  the 
machine  to  find  some  indication  of  gold.  Once  or  twice  only  I 
observed  a minute  speck  glittering  on  the  bottom,  and  I was 
just  giving  vent  to  my  disappointment,  when  I discovered  that 
the  careful  Victor  had  pulled  out  the  plug,  and  that  through  the 
hole  had  escaped  whatever  treasure  might  thus  far  have  been 


GOLD-WASHING  ON  THE  GUATAPE. 


287 


FIRST  ROCKER  IN  HONDURAS. 

collected.  The  general  stamped  and  scolded  while  the  aperture 
was  being  closed,  and  after  half  an  hour’s  labor  I ordered  anoth- 
er inspection.  Along  the  lower  riffle  I observed  a few  chispas 
sparkling  among  the  black  metallic  sand.  The  plug  was  now 
pulled  out,  and  the  lavadera , placing  her  bowl  below,  caught  the 
contents  of  the  rocker  as  it  was  carefully  washed  down.  This 
she  reduced  by  the  rotary  process  already  described,  and  as  we 
bent  over  her  I could  not  repress  an  exclamation  of  delight  at 
seeing  the  little  hollow  space  at  the  bottom  yellow  with  the 
golden  particles.  I estimated  their  value  at  a trifle  below  a 
dollar  and  fifty  cents. 

Don  Chico  was  altogether  too  excited  to  utter  any  thing  be- 
yond ejaculations.  A smile  of  triumph  which  he  observed  on 
my  face  made  him  step  toward  me  and  grasp  my  hand,  while 
the  natives  gazed  alternately  upon  me  and  my  rocker  with  si- 
lent wonder. 

“Wait,  my  dear  general,”  I said,  “until  we  introduce  the 
“hydraulic  mining”  now  used  in  California  into  these  mines, 
and  instead  of  panfuls  of  earth  you  will  see  the  very  hills  disap- 
pearing, from  which  every  particle  of  gold  will  be  saved  by  means 
of  quicksilver ; and  in  the  place  of  half  a quillful  of  dust  for  a 
day’s  labor  you  will  estimate  the  product  by  pounds.’ 


288 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


The  experiment  decided  me,  and  I resolved  never  to  leave 
Olancho  until  I had  entered  into  a contract  with  the  general  for 
the  introduction  of  American  capital  and  labor  into  the  country. 
It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  earth  used  on  this  occasion 
was  not  taken  from  the  bottom  of  excavations  near  the  “ ledge 
rock,”  as  in  California,  to  which  place,  in  the  lapse  of  centuries, 
the  heavy  metal  is  known  to  work  its  way,  but  from  near  the 
surface,  where  a California  miner  would  scarcely  look  for  gold 
except  by  the  newly-discovered  process  of  “ground  sluicing.” 
The  general  led  me  to  a shallow  excavation  on  the  upper  level 
of  the  bar,  which  by  the  river  is  only  reached  during  a freshet, 
where,  at  twenty  feet  above  low  water,  the  lavaderas  took  out 
several  pounds  of  gold  in  six  days’  washing.  This  was  at  a 
time  when  a large  sum  was  required  for  the  building  of  the  new 
church  at  Jutecalpa,  the  women  contributing  by  labor  as  well 
as  gold  to  its  construction. 

Our  conversation  now  turned  upon  the  tiemjpos  antiguos, 
when  it  is  said  large  amounts  of  gold  were  extracted  from  the 
valley  of  the  Guayape,  and  sent  to  enrich  the  nobility  of  the 
mother  country.  The  old  Spanish  chronicler,  Herrera,  makes 
mention  of  the  Guayape  and  its  golden  treasures.  The  general 
had  heard  of  these  accounts,  but  his  limited  reading  had  never 
gone  beyond  the  perusal  of  the  political  pamphlets  and  news- 
papers of  the  country.  I mentioned  the  buccaneers,  and  alluded 
to  my  researches  among  old  volumes  of  the  Spanish  library  at 
Tegucigalpa,  belonging  to  my  friend,  Don  Manuel  Ugarto.  My 
companion  listened  attentively. 

“Follow  me,  and  I will  show  you,”  said  he,  “the  old  mines 
where  the  Spaniards  used  to  take  out  gold.”  He  wheeled  his 
horse,  leaping  a fallen  tree  in  a manner  which  I dared  not  imi- 
tate. So,  making  a circuit,  with  much  difficulty  I forced  my 
horse  up  the  bank  after  him. 

On  a slope  more  than  sixty  feet  above,  I found  him  standing- 
near  some  large  and  deep  pits  (holes)  partially  filled  with  earth. 
They  were  four  in  number.  Heaps  of  stones  and  earth,  matted 
with  grass  and  vines,  lay  near  their  mouths,  and  trees  of  near  a 
century’s  growth,  rooted  in  the  bottom  of  the  pits,  indicated  then- 
great  antiquity.  These  venerable  excavations  reminded  me  of 
similar  places  along  the  Stanislaus  and  South  Yuba. 


ANCIENT  WORKINGS. 


289 


“ Twenty  years  ago,”  said  the  general,  “we  took  out  rusted 
tools  and  bars  of  iron  of  Spanish  manufacture,  left  here  more 
than  a hundred  years  before.  Stories,”  he  continued,  “are  yet 
handed  down  among  the  Indians  toward  Catacamas  that  an- 
cient implements,  made  by  the  aborigines,  who  worked  here  long- 
before  Columbus  discovered  America,  were  found  there  by  the 
old  Spaniards.  The  gold  that  went  to  adorn  the  splendid  pal- 
aces of  Palenque,  Copan,  and  Chichen,  doubtless  came  from  the 
valley  of  the  Guayape  and  other  parts  of  Olancho.  From  this 
kind  of  pit,  in  the  old  time,  while  Honduras  was  a Spanish 
province,  the  gold  was  taken  that  freighted  the  Spanish  galle- 
ons. Had  Spain  been  faithful  to  us,  she  would  not  have  been 
poor,  as  she  now  is.  The  entire  coast,  from  Balize  in  Yucatan 
to  San  Juan  del  Norte  in  Nicaragua,  became  a resort  for  robbers 
— buccaneers.  The  English  of  the  West  India  islands  allowed 
them  to  wage  war  against  the  colonies  of  Spain.  Not  a ship 
could  sail,  I have  been  told,  from  Truxillo  or  Omoa  without  fall- 
ing into  their  hands.  They  leagued  themselves  with  the  Mos- 
quitos or  Sambos  of  the  coast,  supplied  them  with  -weapons, 
pensioned  their  chiefs,  and  encouraged  them  to  a perpetual  war 
upon  Nicaragua.  These  circumstances  prevented  the  continued 
development  of  our  gold  mines.” 

In  this  strain  the  general  proceeded,  pointing,  as  we  rode,  to 
the  openings  in  the  trees,  or  to  growths  of  a more  recent  date, 
where  the  early  adventurers  had  cut  pathways  from  their  work- 
ings to  the  liver,  or  to  traces  of  even  more  ancient  aboriginal 
excavations.  These  last  are  found  in  numerous  localities  on  the 
Guayape  and  its  tributaries,  as  well  as  along  the  course  of  the 
Quebrada  de  Oro,  the  Mangulile,  Mirojoco,  Sulaco,  and  Silaca, 
tributaries  of  the  Aguan  and  other  rivers  discharging  through 
the  Department  of  Yoro  into  the  Caribbean  Sea. 

On  our  return  to  Lepaguare  from  the  Murcielago,  we  bore  the 
rocker,  snugly  packed  on  a mule’s  back,  to  be  used  in  future  op- 
erations in  other  localities ; but,  as  will  hereafter  appear,  I was 
unable  to  make  the  experiments  I had  proposed  except  in  a very 
unsatisfactory  and  imperfect  manner.  My  rocker  has  probably, 
by  this  time,  fallen  to  pieces,  or,  what  is  more  likely,  passed  into 
the  hands  of  some  of  the  adventurers  who  have  since  visited  the 
ycold  regions  of  Olancho. 


T 


290 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


As  we  approached  the  hacienda  of  Barroza,  the  residence  of 
the  youngest  brother,  Don  Lorenzo  Zelaya,  alcalde  primero  ot 
Jutecalpa,  we  were  met  by  a splendidly-mounted  party,  who 
came  leaping  their  horses  with  wild  freedom  over  the  sward  to- 
ward us.  These  were  Don  Lorenzo  himself,  accompanied  bv 
Don  Carlos  Zelaya,  the  general’s  oldest  son,  and  their  usual  at- 
tendants. Hearing  from  one  of  the  vaqueros  of  our  visit  to  the 
Murcielego,  and  probable  return  by  the  way  of  Barroza,  they  had 
prepared  a grand  dinner  for  our  reception.  The  little  cavalcade 
reined  suddenly  up  when  almost  upon  us,  and  the  ceremony  of 
introduction  was  quickly  performed.  Lorenzo  bore  the  features 
of  the  old  general,  but  without  his  nobleness  of  expression.  He 
is  said  to  be  the  pet  of  the  family,  and  the  affectionate  regard 
manifested  toward  each  other  by  these  uncultivated  and  simple 
aristocrats  of  Olancho  affected  me  at  times  more  deeply  than  I 
should  be  willing  to  admit. 

The  hacienda  of  Barroza  is  by  no  means  the  picturesque  spot 
I had  supposed  it  to  be  if om  a distant  view,  but  within  we  found 
all  the  hospitality  so  famous  among  the  Olanchanos.  We  de- 
cided to  remain  all  night.  Here  I met  the  venerable  Jose  Man- 
uel, Santiago,  and  Jose  Marfa  Zelaya,  who,  with  the  general 
(Francisco)  and  Lorenzo,  the  “youngster”  of  the  quintette,  made 
up  the  family.  A faithful  account  of  the  stories  and  legends  re- 
counted here  of  the  gold  placers  in  the  surrounding  hills,  inter- 
spersed with  historical  and  other  interesting  facts,  would  have 
made  in  itself  a readable  and  instructive  volume.  It  was,  how- 
ever, difficult  to  enjoy  and  appreciate  this  bounteous  hospitality, 
and  be,  at  the  same  time,  a “ chiel  amang  them  takin’  notes." 
Long  after  midnight,  when  all  else  had  retired  to  sleep,  I sat 
smoking  with  Don  Santiago,  iiJuez  cle  Primero  Instancia  cle 
Olancho who,  in  his  official  capacity  during  many  years,  had 
become  stuffed  with  valuable  information  in  relation  to  the  his- 
tory and  topography  of  the  country.  To  him  I am  indebted  for 
a history  of  Olancho,  its  early  settlement,  and  the  progress  of  the 
Zelayas  and  other  leading  families  from  their  entrance  into  the 
country  up  to  the  present  time.  Don  Santiago  is  the  “learned 
brother”  and  the  oracle  of  the  rest  of  the  family  in  all  legal,  scien- 
tific, or  historical  matters.  His  grave  expression,  refined  cast  of 
countenance,  and  ample  forehead  overshadowed  by  black,  curling 


MOUNTED  CABALLEROS. 


291 


hair,  betoken  a man  of  fine  abilities,  and  who  elsewhere  might 
have  made  an  enduring  name.  It  was  long  after  midnight  when, 
with  fingers  cramped  and  eyes  smarting  from  the  effects  of  the 
dim  tallow  candle  by  which  I had  taken  down  his  lengthy  histor- 
ical resume,  I bid  liim  good-night,  and  joned  the  sleeping  crowd. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

A Ride  in  the  Valley  of  Lepaguare. — A “bueno  Jinete”  of  Olancho. — The  Va- 
nilla Vine:  how  it  grows. — Susceptible  of  Cultivation. — The  Vanilla  Trade. — 
Productions  of  Olancho. — Wild  Berries. — Another  Excursion. — Hacienda  de 
Galeras. — Wild  Horses. — Mounted  Vaqueros. — The  Road  to  El  Rio  Moran. — 
Falls  of  the  Moran. — Deer  and  Antelope. — The  Temperature. — Coast  Fevers. 
— Ho ! for  Jutecalpa. — Galeras  again. — A Birth-day  Dinner.— Mammoth  Ta- 
ble-top.— Sheep  and  Wolves. — The  Vale  of  Paradise. — Dissolving  Views.— 
— Golden  Rhapsodies. — A Bath  with  the  Mocking-birds. — Leaving  Galeras. — 
Kindness  of  the  Zelayas. — The  Start  for  Jutecalpa. 

On  the  following  morning,  having  breakfasted,  we  remounted 
and  returned  to  Lepaguare.  I got  out  my  traveling  writing- 
desk,  and  commenced  putting  to  paper  the  facts  I had  already 
obtained.  The  general  and  his  family  preserved  a respectful  si- 
lence while  I was  thus  occupied,  and  the  women  chid  the  noisy 
Indian  children  who  were  frolicking  outside.  When  I had  com- 
pleted my  work,  and  made  such  additions  to  the  map  as  my 
conversations  with  Don  Santiago  had  suggested,  Don  Francisco 
proposed  that  we  should  ride  to  the  vicinity  of  Cerro  Gordo, 
where  were  growing  a number  of  vanilla  plants,  and  which  I had 
expressed  a desire  to  see.  He  also  thought  it  possible  that  Ins 
second  son,  Don  Toribio,  might  be  expected  from  Truxillo,  where 
he  had  been  absent  two  months  to  purchase  mantos  and  a gen- 
eral assortment  of  dry  goods.  He  had  a train  of  twenty  mules, 
which  had  gone  down  to  the  coast  loaded  with  cheese,  one  of 
the  great  productions  of  Olancho. 

Behold  us  now  mounted  on  the  spirited  caballos  de  Uloa , 
the  finest  breed  in  Olancho,  and  moving  along  the  emerald  plain 
toward  the  picturesque  Cerro  Gordo.  The  acquired  pace  of  the 
Olancho  horse  is  the  quintessence  of  ease  and  delightful  motion, 
and,  beneath  the  comfortable  Mexican  saddle,  seems  to  carry  the 
rider  along  with  as  little  perceptible  motion  as  a boat  gliding 


292 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


over  the  gentle  undulations  of  a lake.  It  was  a great  compli- 
ment from  the  general  that  he  had  ordered  to  he  saddled  for  me 
his  favorite,  a large  black  horse  kept  for  particular  occasions. 
The  beautiful  creature  had  an  eye  almost  human  in  its  intelli- 
gence, and  his  glossy,  well-filled  coat  attested  to  the  fond  care 
of  his  owner.  He  was  the  only  animal  in  the  caballeria  that 
had  ever  been  shod ; the  shoes,  however,  carelessly  fastened  by 
some  bungling  native  blacksmith,  had  long  since  been  cast. 

ISTo  words  can  express  the  exhilaration  and  joyous  sense  of 
freedom  experienced  in  a journey  among  the  valleys  of  Olancho, 
the  rider  inhaling  health  with  every  breath,  and  each  sense  elate 
with  pleasure.  At  the  time  of  my  visit  the  rains  had  nearly 
ceased,  leaving  all  nature  sparkling  with  the  rich  green  so  sel- 
dom seen  out  of  an  English  rural  picture.  The  higher  lands  of 
the  department  had  donned  a somewhat  gayer  dress  than  they 
were  wont  to  wear,  while  the  marshes  and  plains,  wherever 
wooded,  glowed  in  the  sunlight  with  the  freshest,  purest  green. 

Don  Francisco  was  counted  the  best  horseman  in  Olancho, 
owing  partly,  perhaps,  to  the  dignified  and  patriarchal  appearance 
he  offered  when  mounted.  But,  aside  from  this,  as  his  horse  (a 
fine  bay)  curvetted  in  advance  of  the  little  party,  I could  but  ad- 
mire the  ease  of  the  rider,  as  with  long  accustomed  muscles  he 
swayed  gracefully  to  the  lithe  motions  of  his  noble  animal,  his 
portly  form  completely  filling  the  saddle,  and  his  features  shaded 
with  a broad-brimmed  sombrero  de  Guayaquil.  At  times,  in 
the  course  of  conversation,  which  flowed  rapidly,  excited  by  the 
beauty  of  the  scenery  and  the  enlivening  motions  of  the  horse, 
he  would  turn  partly  round  to  address  me,  gesticulating  with 
that  animated  dignity  almost  inseparable  from  the  well-bred 
caballero. 

In  truth,  if  the  old  man  had  a weak  point,  it  was  in  his  rep- 
utation for  horsemanship,  regarding  which  he  was  ever  jealous 
and  easily  flattered.  His  brother,  Don  Santiago,  had  once  en- 
joyed the  name  of  being  el  mejor  jinete  de  Olancho , a reputa- 
tion not  valueless,  where  to  be  an  indifferent  rider  is  the  excep- 
tion to  the  rule ; but,  since  a fall  he  had  received  some  years 
previous  while  breaking  a wild  mare,  Don  Francisco  had  taken 
precedence.  To  be  a fine  rider  in  Olancho  does  not  imply  the 
mere  ability  to  mount  and  retain  the  seat  on  a wild  colt  just 


THE  VANILLA  VINE. 


293 


from  the  untamed  manada — a trick  familiar  to  half  the  lounging 
brats  about  the  haciendas.  The  term  bueno  jinete  is  usually 
accorded  to  the  most  graceful  and  dexterous  manager  of  the 
horse,  combining  an  easy  carriage  with  the  numerous  feats  done 
by  a slight  pressure  of  the  rein,  calculated  to  display  the  best 
points  of  the  animal. 

I know  of  no  more  admirable  sight  than  an  “ Olanchano  dt 
familia  distinguida ” mounted  on  one  of  these  strong,  well-knit 
horses,  broken  to  the  severe  Spanish  bit,  his  erect  form  placed 
in  the  saddle  like  a monument,  his  toes  just  resting  in  the  stir- 
rups, the  particolored  serapje  flowing  becomingly  over  the  shoul- 
der, his  swarthy  face  glowing  with  conscious  pride  from  under 
the  flapping  hat,  set  jauntily  on  one  side,  and  the  tout  ensemble 
of  man  and  horse  a picture  of  ease  and  democratic  freedom 
rarely  to  be  seen  except  in  the  pampas  of  La  Plata  or  the  ran- 
chos de  ganado  of  California. 

About  two  leagues  from  Lepaguare  wre  crossed  a small  river, 
and,  ascendirg  the  opposite  bank,  came  upon  a wild  piece  of 
table-land  covered  with  copses,  among  which  we  paused  to  ex- 
amine the  vanilla,  here  clambering  up  the  trunks  of  the  trees, 
sometimes  to  a distance  of  forty  feet  from  the  ground.  The 
natives  of  Olancho  are  totally  ignorant  of  the  method  of  culture 
pursued  in  Mexico.  Don  Jose  Manuel  Zelaya  had  been  in 
Mexico  when  a young  man,  but  had  forgotten  the  way  of  prop- 
agating it.  In  the  small  town  of  Pespire,  next  to  Nacaome,  an 
attempt  was  once  made  to  cultivate  the  vanilla,  and  with  encour- 
aging success.  The  place  is  on  the  Pacific  slope,  and  but  little 
elevated  above  the  sea.  Cuttings  about  a foot  in  length  are  in- 
serted in  the  bark  of  the  tree  upon  which  the  vine  is  designed 
to  climb,  where  it  soon  commences  to  grow. 

About  twenty  arrobas  only  are  annually  gathered  in  the 
woods  of  Olancho,  most  of  which  is  taken  to  Tegucigalpa, 
where  it  is  prepared  for  the  market.  A small  quantity  also 
finds  its  way  to  Balize,  Truxillo,  and  Omoa.  A very  lucrative 
business  may  be  carried  on  in  all  parts  of  Honduras  by  offering 
a trifle  beyond  the  usual  price,  which  would  command  the  great- 
er part  of  what  is  gathered.  The  flowers  are  of  a greenish  yel- 
low mixed  with  white.  But  of  the  three  varieties  of  the  va- 
nilla found  in  Honduras,  that  known  as  la  fina  is  the  most 


294 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


esteemed.  The  longer  and  narrower  the  pods,  the  greater  ap- 
pears to  he  their  value.  Senor  Losano,  of  Tegucigalpa,  showed 
me  about  fifty  pounds  of  three  classes,  which  he  was  preparing 
for  the  fair  of  San  Miguel.  Much  of  this  was  gathered  in 
Olancho  and  Yoro.  For  this  he  had  paid  from  a medio  (61 
cents)  to  a real  (12|  cents)  per  pound,  according  to  quality. 
Being  the  principal  dealer  in  that  vicinity,  it  was  customary  to 
bring  the  fruit  to  him  from  a considerable  distance  around  Te- 
gucigalpa, the  small  collectors  preferring  to  realize  at  the  local 
prices  than  to  send,  on  their  own  account,  to  the  market. 

At  the  fair  of  San  Miguel  vanilla  sells  at  from  two  to  four 
dollars  of  silver.  About  thirty  quintales  are  annually  gathered 
in  Honduras  and  San  Salvador.  The  plant  affects  two  trees  in 
Olancho,  the  Indio  desnudo  and  the  Guachijoalin.  The  va- 
nilla of  Olancho  is  probably  that  described  by  the  botanist 
Miller  as  the  Vanilla  axillaris , and  is  described  as  occurring 
in  Carthagena,  New  Spain,  where  it  grows  naturally.  It  has  a 
climbing  stalk,  sending  out  roots  from  the  joints,  and  mounting 
to  a great  height.  The  leaves,  which  come  out  singly  at  each 
joint,  are  oblong,  smooth,  and  jointed.  The  flowers  protrude 
from  the  side  of  the  branches ; they  are  shaped  like  those  of 
the  great  Bee-Orchis,  but  longer.  The  helmet  is  of  a pale  pink, 
and  the  lip  purple.  The  vanilla  vine  is  found  from  Mexico 
through  Central  America  to  Darien.  The  pods  grow  in  pairs, 
and  are  generally  of  the  thickness  of  a child’s  finger,  and  about 
five  or  six  inches  in  length.  They  are  green  at  first,  then  yel- 
lowish, and  turn  of  a brownish  cast  as  they  ripen.  The  stalk  is 
moderately  slender,  and  throws  out  a long,  winding  tendril  op- 
posite to  each  of  the  lower  leaves,  by  which  it  adheres  to  the 
branches  or  bark  of  the  tree;  but  after  it  gains  the  top  these 
become  useless,  and  the  place  of  each  is  supplied  by  a fellow- 
leaf.  The  birds  of  the  country  are  represented  as  greedily  de- 
vouring the  ripe  seeds.  The  method  of  curing  the  pods  is  quite 
simple.  When  they  begin  to  ripen  they  are  gathered  and  laid 
to  ferment  in  heaps  for  several  days.  After  being  dried  in  the 
sun  for  an  equal  length  of  time,  during  which  they  are  often 
touched  with  palm  oil,  they  are  a second  time  dried,  and  then 
packed  for  the  nearest  market.  Much  depends  on  the  nicety 
of  this  oiling  and  drying  process,  as  also  on  the  condition  of 


NATURAL  PRODUCTIONS. 


295 


the  pod  when  picked.  The  fruit  is  much  improved  by  culti- 
vation. 

From  two  to  four  pounds  a day  can  be  gathered  in  good  lo- 
calities by  an  industrious  native.  A small  capital — say  $3000 
in  cash — would  quite  monopolize  the  vanilla  business  of  all 
Honduras.  The  value  of  good  vanilla  in  the  markets  of  Eu- 
rope and  the  United  States  is  too  well  known  for  comment  here. 
There  are  no  reliable  statistics  whereby  to  ascertain  the  amount 
collected  in  Central  America.  Near  the  city  of  Cojutepeque,  in 
San  Salvador,  a successful  attempt  has  been  made  to  establish 
a vanilla  hacienda,  devoting  the  entire  space  of  a large  estate  to 
the  cultivation  of  the  vine.  The  article  is  extensively  cultiva- 
ted in  Mexico,  and  the  soil  of  Honduras  seems  equally  adapted 
to  it.  Don  Francisco  listened  attentively  to  my  proposal  to 
have  a space  of  land  cleared  for  the  experiment,  and  I have  since 
learned  from  him  that  several  vines  he  had  transplanted  have 
exceeded  his  most  sanguine  hopes. 

But  it  was  not  alone  the  glistening  lanceolate  leaves  of  the 
vanilla  that  absorbed  our  attention.  Various  forms  of  vegeta- 
tion, the  solidest  and  the  tenderest,  gave  life  and  animation  to 
the  scenery  around.  The  shrubs  and  trees  looked  fat  with  sap, 
and  ready  to  burst  their  rinds  with  the  warm  expansion.  Veg- 
etable ivory  and  cork ; the  cocoanut  and  banana ; the  wild  lem- 
on and  the  luscious  guava ; gum  of  Araby,  and  in  the  uplands 
the  barley  of  the  North  ; delicately-perfumed  plants  were  here, 
and  the  ill -scented  but  useful  India-rubber.  The  names  of 
many  Don  Chico  was  entirely  ignorant  of,  even  their  local  ones  ; 
but  the  vaqueros,  whose  lives  had  been  passed  from  childhood 
roaming  among  the  woods  in  search  of  stray  cattle,  or  coursing 
days  alone  among  the  plains  and  hills,  were  familiar  with  near- 
ly all,  and  answered  readily  to  every  inquiry.  Thus  I was 
warned  at  one  time  from  contact  with  the  deadly  rnansanilla, 
the  Upas  of  Olancho  ; and  at  another  my  attention  was  directed 
to  a tree  loaded  with  black,  shiny  berries,  resembling  the  lar- 
gest size  of  swamp  whortleberries,  but  of  a sweet,  grapy  flavor, 
and  known  here  as  the  said.  These  I gathered  by  the  hand- 
ful, stripping  them  from  the  twigs,  and  eating  them  with  a keen 
appreciation  of  their  quality.  The  foliage  of  this  tree  is  nearly 
the  same  as  that  of  the  mountain  ash  of  New  England. 


296 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


On  another  occasion  I rode  with  the  general  and  L to  the 

River  Moran,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Guayape.  Taking  its 
rise  toward  Tiupacente  to  the  southward,  and  descending  by 
two  splendid  falls,  it  leaps  in  a whirl  of  foam  to  join  the  larger 
stream  below. 

As  usual,  we  started  at 
early  dawn,  and,  traveling 
the  velvety  plains  of  Lepa- 
guare  and  Galeras,  stopped 
at  the  hacienda  of  that 
name,  for  many  years  the 
residence  of  Don  Santiago 
Zelaya.  We  had  hardly 
entered  the  gateway  when 
the  ground  began  to  trem- 
ble as  with  the  beating  of 
many  hoofs,  and  at  the 
same  moment,  from  around 
a bend  in  the  woods,  ap- 
peared a troop  of  horses 
and  mules,  numbering  per- 
haps two  hundred.  They  were  at  full  stretch,  and  heading  di- 
rectly for  the  corral  or  cattle-pen,  pursued  by  four  or  five 
mounted  vaqueros,  following  the  herd  by  instinct,  and  dodging 
to  the  right  and  left  as  any  one  of  the  chase  seemed  disposed  to 
bolt  and  quit  company.  This  was  a new  picture,  and  as  it 
passed  fairly  to  view  on  the  open  plain,  I hardly  knew  which 
most  to  admire,  the  sleek  and  elegant  forms  of  the  half- wild 
animals,  or  the  incredible  ease  and  grace  with  which  these  pic- 
turesque Centaurs  sat  and  guided  then-  leaping  steeds.  There 
was  nothing  strained  or  awkward  either  in  the  trappings  or  the 
light  costume  of  the  riders.  Brought  up  astride  the  fierce  wild 
horses  of  the  plains,  they  move  with  the  animal,  and  seem  a 
part  of  the  creature,  whose  very  muscles  seem  to  act  in  obedi- 
ence to  their  will. 

The  whole  herd  dashed,  kicking  and  plunging,  pell-mell  into 
the  inclosure,  and  we  remained  long  enough  to  witness  the  op- 
eration of  breaking  a she-devil  of  a mule,  whose  glistening  hide, 
straining  like  velvet  over  her  trembling  body,  showed  every  mus- 


CATTLE  HACIENDA. 


spreads  out  into  a savanna  or  plain.  Here  stands  a small  hut  of 
branches,  where  the  cattle-drivers  were  accustomed  to  pass  the 
night  when  belated.  This  ford  during  the  rainy  months  is  im- 
passable. Leaving  the  river,  we  mounted  a range  of  hills  crown- 
ed with  pines  and  oaks,  and  ledges  of  quartz  protruding  along 
its  steep  sides.  The  path  now  became  lost  in  the  branches 
and  long  grass,  whose  luxuriance  showed  how  little  the  trail 
was  traveled.  Our  guide  on  this  trip  was  a long,  swarthy  fel- 
low, whose  muscular  limbs  indicated  long  travel  in  the  mount- 
ains. The  general  called  him  Marcos.  From  the  summit  of 
this  ridge  I again  noted  the  bearings  of  the  principal  peaks, 
among  which  that  of  Teupacente  loomed  conspicuous.  The 


CROSSING  THE  GUAYAPE.  297 

cle  as  she  sprang  madly  about  in  the  toils  of  the  lazo.  Don 
Santiago  and  a company  of  half  a dozen  shortly  after  joined  us, 
and  we  galloped  away  toward  the  Rio  Moran.  The  falls  were 
only  visited  at  long  intervals  by  the  natives,  to  hunt  up  some 
hermit  of  a bull  or  Daniel  Boone  of  a horse,  whose  tastes  led 
them  to  this  solitary  locality  to  escape  the  monthly  routine  of 
corraling.  We  crossed  several  small  streams  until  we  reached 
the  Gruayape,  fording  it  at  a rocky  passage  where  the  country 


GUAYAPE  EIYEE  NEAR  GALERAS. 


298 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


country  through  which  we  passed  was  mountainous  and  pictur- 
esque, Tbut  not  wearing  the  inviting  aspect  of  the  valleys  below, 
these  ranges  forming  the  natural  boundaries  of  the  great  cattle- 
plains  of  Lower  Olancho.  The  falls  of  the  Moran  are  about 
three  leagues  from  the  ford  of  the  Guayape.  The  whole  dis- 
tance from  Lepaguare  by  the  winding  of  the  road  was  about 
twenty  miles.  We  descended  into  the  next  valley,  crossing  a 
small  tributary  of  the  Guayape,  and,  rising  the  succeeding  ridge, 
followed  its  crest,  when,  approaching  the  slope  of  the  mountain 
from  among  a pine  forest,  we  were  suddenly  within  sound  of 
the  cascade,  whose  voice  came  solemnly  up  and  penetrated  the 
woods.  We  rested  a while,  and  then  commenced  the  descent 
by  a series  of  grass j plateaus  to  where  the  upper  fall  came  in 
view,  and,  immediately  after,  the  lower  one.  The  spray,  dashing 
wildly  upon  the  tumble  of  rocks,  kept  them  dripping  with 
moisture,  which  sparkled  in  the  sunlight  even  at  that  distance. 
We  now  dismounted,  and,  fastening  our  animals,  commenced  the 
descent  toward  the  falls.  These  do  not,  like  heavier  cataracts, 
overpower  with  impressions  of  their  grandeur,  but  please  rather 
by  their  beauty  of  proportion,  grace  of  motion,  color,  and  adapt- 
ation to  the  surrounding  scenery.  Concentrating  then-  force 
after  the  turbulent  gathering  above,  the  waters  throw  themselves 
out  broadly  along  the  bosom  of  the  slant  rock,  and  gradually 
settle  themselves  into  the  river  below,  while  the  surrounding 
cliffs  echo  the  grave  music  of  their  voice. 

By  help  of  the  depending  boughs,  I made  my  way  down  to 
a narrow,  slippery  ledge  below  the  falls,  from  which  position 
new  features  in  the  scenery  were  unveiled.  Branches  wrenched 
from  the  overhanging  trees  lay  along  the  water’s  edge,  with 
drooping  but  not  yet  withered  leaves,  denoting  the  recent  pas- 
sage of  a storm  and  the  consequent  flood  of  the  river.  Masses 
of  rock,  that  had  been  precipitated  from  the  heights  above,  en- 
croached in  bold  juts  upon  the  stream.  From  one  of  them,  an 
eagle,  as  if  displeased  at  our  presence  in  a domain  of  which  he 
alone  was  lord,  rose  heavily,  and  sailed  away  above  the  higher 
summits  of  the  mountain.  Some  of  the  interstices  of  the  cliff 
were  stocked  with  flowers,  and  acacias,  or  something  closely  re- 
sembling them,  drooped  their  yellow  tresses,  languid  and  beau- 
tiful, to  their  own  bright  reflection  in  the  stream. 


FAJLLS  OF  THE  MORAN. 


299 


From  where  we  stood,  I took  in  the  full  depth  of  the  fall, 
and  could  trace  the  river  leaping  down  a series  of  cascades 
toward  the  Guayape.  In  situations  like  this,  the  blue  of  sky 
and  water,  and  the  green  of  foliage,  are  not  the  presiding  tints 
of  the  landscape.  The  gray  of  the  hare  rocks,  the  crimson,  yel- 
low, and  white  of  those  that  are  moss-clad,  the  brown  and  olive 
of  decayed  vegetation,  the  glitter  of  the  spray,  the  depths,  al- 
most black,  of  the  silent  forests — all  these,  with  the  clearness 
of  the  pervading  atmosphere,  touching  with  aerial  hue  the  sum- 
mits of  the  purple  mountain  ridges,  combined  to  produce  a pic- 
ture, to  represent  which  every  color  and  combination  of  the 
painter’s  palette  would  be  called  in  requisition. 

It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we  scrambled  up  the  rug- 
ged ascent,  and,  remounting  our  horses,  turned  again  toward 
home,  which  we  reached  late  at  night. 

On  several  occasions  we  started  away  on  hunting  excursions, 
but,  until  our  return  from  the  eastward  later  in  the  season,  we 
had  but  ill  luck.  The  deer  of  Olancho  are  similar  to  those  of 
all  Central  America,  of  a light  brown  color,  and  are  shot  rather 
for  the  skins,  which  form  an  important  article  of  export,  than  as 
desirable  for  food. 

So  abundant  are  the  deer  and  antelope  in  some  of  the  mount- 
ains of  Honduras,  that  it  is  usual  to  travel  with  a gun  slung 
across  the  shoulders.  In  Olancho,  where  the  care  of  cattle  and 
collection  of  hides  occupies  mainly  the  attention  of  the  people 
in  the  capacity  of  herdsmen,  they  carry  also  a butcher-knife 
thrust  into  the  girdle,  which  has  given  rise  to  the  saying 
throughout  the  rest  of  the  state  that  the  Olanchanos  are  quar- 
relsome desperadoes. 

While  preparing  for  my  departure  from  Tegucigalpa,  I re- 
member to  have  been  frequently  warned  by  my  friends  there 
that  traveling  in  Olancho  was  extremely  dangerous ; but  from 
my  first  arrival  to  the  time  of  my  departure  I met  only  with 
profuse  hospitality,  and  found  the  natives  simple  and  kind- 
hearted. 

The  hacienda  of  Lepaguare  is  nearly  a thousand  feet  higher 
than  Jutecalpa,  which  gives  it  an  elevation  of  about  eighteen 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  The  mining  localities  will  proba- 
bly average  about  that  height  above  the  ocean.  My  observa- 


300 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


tions  of  temperature  and  weather  were  made  uninterruptedly 
three  times  a day,  from  September  to  February.  At  six  o’clock 
A.M.,  observations  made  from  December  16th  to  January  15th 
showed  an  extreme  variation  of  only  nine  degrees,  52°  to  61°. 
Noon  observations  for  the  same  days  showed  the  same  varia- 
tions, from  72°  to  80°.  Evening  observations  from  six  P.M. 
gave  only  six  degrees  of  variation,  69°  to  75°.  The  morning 
temperature  at  Lepaguare  was  about  59°,  and  at  noon  about 
78°;  the  evening  was  about  74°  for  the  winter.  It  is  seldom 
as  hot  at  Jutecalpa  as  it  has  been  known  at  New  York  in  the 
summer  season.  The  reasons  for  this  are  geographical,  and 
do  not  apply  generally  to  the  tropics.  At  Truxillo,  on  the 
sea-coast,  the  heat  is  greater,  and  bilious  fevers  and  dysenter- 
ies are  common,  though  not  often  fatal.  My  travels  in  Olan- 
cho  did  not  carry  me  to  the  coast,  but  from  the  testimony  of 
numerous  persons  it  must  be  generally  unhealthy.  The  lower 
country  bordering  on  the  Caribbean  Sea  is  known  as  the  ti- 
erra  caliente  among  the  Olanchanos , and  few  of  them  who  vis- 
it it  escape  a touch  of  the  fever.  Senior  Ocampo,  with  whom 
I became  intimate,  had  twice,  he  said,  been  brought  “near  the 
tomb”  in  pursuing  the  hazardous  calling  of  the  mahogany-cut- 
ter, which  required  him  to  remain  on  the  low  coast  savannas 
and  lagoons.  With,  the  exception  of  occasional  reference  to  the 
scenery  and  climate  as  I passed  through  the  country,  I have  re- 
served these  subjects  for  a fuller  description  in  a distinct  chap- 
ter. The  interior  of  Olancho,  and,  indeed,  of  the  greater  part 
of  Honduras,  offers  one  of  the  healthiest  and  most  agreeable 
climates  in  the  world.  Many  natives  have  lived  to  advanced 
age  without  ever  passing  into  the  low  countries,  and  could  prob- 
ably never  be  persuaded  to  do  so. 

After  several  weeks  spent  at  Lepaguare  and  the  neighboring 
estates,  where  I enjoyed  an  unceasing  round  of  festive  recep- 
tion, and  all  the  warmth  of  the  rude  hospitality  of  the  people,  I 
intimated  to  the  general  my  desire  to  proceed  eastward  toward 
the  famous  town  of  Jutecalpa,  of  which  I had  heard  frequent 
mention  as  the  metropolis  of  the  little  world  of  Olancho,  and  of 
surpassing  interest  to  the  stranger,  as  retaining,  in  the  archi- 
tecture of  its  buildings  and  the  simple  customs  of  its  inhabit- 
ants, the  primitive  appearance  of  the  early  Spanish  settlements. 


OFF  FOE  JUTECALPA. 


301 


Although  my  case  was  well  stocked  with  odd-looking  letters 
of  introduction  to  the  principal  families  of  the  place,  Don  Fran- 
cisco insisted  upon  adding  nearly  a dozen  to  the  package,  which 
he  said  would  set  them  by  the  ears  for  the  right  of  entertaining 
me.  He  advised  me  by  all  means  to  remain  at  the  houses  of 
Senores  Garay  or  Gardela,  old  and  wealthy  citizens,  who  would 
have  horses  always  in  readiness  for  me,  and  be  able  to  afford 
more  valuable  information  than  any  other  persons  in  the  town. 
The  Funcion  de  la  Virgen  was  to  commence  the  8th  of  De- 
cember, and  as  this  is  the  principal  dia  de  fiesta  of  Olancho,  my 
host  was  very  anxious  that  I should  be  in  town  during  the 
week  which  it  occupied.  The  sickness  of  the  senora  forbade 
her  leaving  the  house,  and  the  girls,  of  course,  would  remain  to 
nurse  her.  The  general  promised  to  meet  me  at  Jutecalpa,  and 
there  arrange  with  me  the  oft-mentioned  contract,  the  terms  of 
which  I had  been  cogitating  over  since  my  arrival.  The  object 
of  my  host  in  this  delay  was  to  confer  with  the  four  remaining 
brothers,  without  whose  concurrence  he  would  refuse  to  enter 
into  any  agreement. 

At  noon  we  started  from  Lepaguare,  amid  the  “ Adios , Don 
Guillermo  /”  of  the  vaqueros  and  the  crowd  belonging  to  the 
hacienda.  Conspicuous  among  them,  and  a head  taller  than  the 
rest,  stood  the  general,  with  his  great  beaming  face  expressing 
all  the  warmth  of  his  generous  heart.  He  is  the  idol  of  the  peo- 
ple, and  they  may  well  love  him.  Our  road  to  Jutecalpa  lay 
over  the  usual  level  plain.  We  had  just  turned  a distant  angle 
in  the  road,  shutting  out  the  hacienda  from  sight,  when  the 
tramp  of  horses  was  heard  coming  after  us,  and  the  general, 
Don  Toribio  (who  had  arrived  from  Truxillo),  and  Julio  gal- 
loped toward  us.  They  were  determined  to  extend  the  com- 
pliment of  accompanying  us  on  our  road.  This  is  considered 
one  of  the  greatest  civilities  that  can  be  shown  to  a stranger  in 
Olancho.  It  is  a custom  descended  from  the  conquerors. 

A brisk  gallop  brought  us  to  the  hacienda  of  Galeras,  where 
the  general  desired  we  should  remain  that  night,  and  take  an 
early  start  on  the  following  morning.  One  of  the  first  things 
that  met  my  eye  on  dismounting  was  a basket  of  veritable  Irish 
potatoes,  brought  from  the  mountains  of  Tegucigalpa,  where 
Don  Santiago  had  sent  for  them  for  seed.  They  were  small, 


302 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


white,  watery-looking  affairs,  but  the  pride  of  their  owner,  who 
was  quite  sanguine  that  they  would  grow  on  his  estate.  I was 
at  once  earnestly  engaged  describing  to  him  the  North  Ameri- 
can method  of  cultivating  them.  Passing  the  hacienda  some 
two  months  later,  I found  they  had  thrown  bunches  of  vigorous 
leaves  above  ground,  and  bid  fair  to  be  entirely  successful. 
Senor  Zelaya  assured  me  that  potatoes  had  been  raised  in  Olan- 
cho,  but  these  were  the  only  ones  I saw  in  that  department. 

The  dinner  set  before  us  was  a wonder  of  luxury.  It  was 
placed  on  the  great  cedar  table  by  two  rosy-cheeked,  bouncing- 
girls,  daughters  of  Don  Santiago,  and  consisted  of  wild  honey, 
tortillas , fried,  jerked,  and  fresh  beef,  fresh  bread,  vegetables, 
butter,  cheese,  coffee,  cream,  rice,  fried  bananas,  roast  kid,  boiled 
goat’s  milk,  and  eggs  boiled  and  fried.  With  such  a bill  of 
fare,  and  our  late  gallop  to  whet  the  appetite,  we  needed  no  per- 
. suasion  to  prove  ourselves  good  trencher-men.  This  was  Don 
Santiago’s  birth-day,  which  accounted  for  the  unusual  good 
cheer.  The  old  gentleman  was  soon  satisfied,  and,  leaning  back 
in  his  chair,  he  tied  an  ample  blue  handkerchief  about  his  head, 
lighted  a cigarro , and  watched  us  complacently  as  we  did  jus- 
tice to  his  dinner. 

The  house  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  in  Olancho.  It  is 
paved  regularly  with  handsome  tiles,  and  is  divided  by  heavy 
partitions  of  masonry  into  four  large  apartments,  communicating 
with  each  other  by  doors  of  cedar.  The  size  of  the  cedars  of 
Olancho  I have  never  seen  equaled  out  of  California  and  Ore- 
gon. They  are  usually  found  along  the  river-bottoms,  often 
reaching  a hundred  feet  in  height,  and  from  six  to  ten  in  diame- 
ter. They  are  found  growing  in  the  midst  of  the  forest,  and 
eclipsing  all  save  the  mahogany  in  majestic  beauty  of  proportion 
and  evenness  of  grain.  At  several  of  the  haciendas  I saw  ta- 
ble-tops eleven  feet  long  by  seven  wide,  without  a flaw  or  crack. 
The  wood  works  easily,  and  may  be  applied  to  all  common  pur- 
poses. The  table  at  Don  Santiago’s  hacienda  was  the  largest 
I had  yet  seen.  At  night,  four  or  five  of  the  natives  would 
spread  their  scrapes  across  its  breadth,  and  make  it  a comfort- 
able resting-place. 

After  dinner  the  old  Don  took  us  out  to  his  sheep  corral, 
where  we  counted  some  fifty  fine-looking  earner  os,  from  which 


HACIENDA  DE  GALERAS. 


303 


the  homespun  cloth  at  the  hacienda  is  made.  He  complained 
of  the  ravages  of  coyotes  and  wolves,  whose  voices,  in  wild  cho- 
rus, we  often  heard  during  the  night  far  over  the  plain,  answered 
back  by  the  nearer  and  unanimous  concert  of  the  hacienda  dogs. 
Sheep  thrive  wonderfully  in  Olancho,  where  the  extensive  pas- 
turage presents  excellent  facilities  for  raising  them.  None  of 
the  diseases  usually  incident  to  these  animals  are  known  here ; 
the  owners  of  estates  declare  the  wolves  to  be  the  only  pests 
they  have  to  contend  with.  Some  small  quantities  of  wool  go  to 
the  fair  and  to  the  ports  of  the  Caribbean  Sea.  We  were  shown 
a tree  of  superb  foliage  near  the  house,  famous  for  its  cathartic 
properties,  called  the  ana  ; also  the  jpinon , with  similar  quali- 
ties ; and  trailing  along  the  bars  of  the  sheep  corral  was  a vine 
known  as  the  friaga  jplata,  the  roots  of  which  are  a valuable 
medicine.  All  of  these  are  in  general  use  in  Olancho. 

Standing  at  the  door  of  the  hacienda,  I was  speedily  lost 
in  contemplating  the  wondrous  intensity  with  which  Nature 
works,  producing  in  close  proximity  so  many  forms  of  vegeta- 
tion. Every  useful  shrub  and  tree  that  grows  seems  to  have 
made  this  garden  of  Central  America  its  home.  There  is  scarce- 
ly a work  for  human  hands  which  may  not  be  executed  here 
with  materials  found  upon  the  surface ; not  a month  in  the  year 
when  labor  may  not  be  performed ; not  a taint  in  the  atmos- 
phere, nor  any  indigenous  or  imported  pestilence.  Hon  Santiago 
spoke  of  great  and  wealthy  haciendas  of  cattle  and  mules  to  the 
northward  and  eastward,  where  valleys  equally  picturesque  and 
delightful  could  be  found,  perhaps  even  more  secluded  from  the 
world  than  those  about  us.  “You  must  travel,”  said  he,  “ many 
months  through  these  mountains  before  you  will  know  Olan- 
cho and  as  I gazed  at  the  distant  ranges  to  the  north  and 
east,  their  faint  outlines  almost  melting  in  the  blue  sky  beyond, 
I could  easily  imagine  the  secluded  valleys,  and  rich,  verdure- 
clad  meadows  sleeping  peacefully  at  their  feet.  Between  us 
and  the  nearest  range,  forming  a natural  amphitheatre,  the  green 
and  tinted  plains  lay  undulating  like  a painted  sea,  over  which 
thousands  of  cattle  fed  lazily  along,  and  the  few  trees  cast 
lengthening  and  flickering  shadows  as  their  leaves  glowed  in 
the  sunset  and  trembled  in  the  upland  breeze. 

We  awoke  early  next  morning  amid  the  crowing  of  cocks 


304 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


and  lowing  of  herds.  Our  host  described  our  road,  and  assured 
us  that,  with  a moderate  but  steady  pace,  we  could  reach  Jute- 
calpa  by  nightfall.  While  breakfast  was  preparing,  we  strolled 
out  to  enjoy  the  fresh  morning  air.  One  of  the  boys  pointed  at 
a brook  near  the  house  where  a woman  had  dug  eight  ounces 
of  gold  in  one  day.  Don  Santiago  corroborated  the  statement, 
and  said  he  had  bought  it  at  $12.50  per  ounce. 

“ All  the  country  about  here,  far  as  you  can  see,”  he  said, 
“is  gold-bearing.  Do  you  see  that  gorge  in  yonder  chain  of 
hills  ? That  is  where  the  two  daughters  of  Maria  Saenz  found 
their  famous  ‘windfall,’  four  pounds  of  gold  in  two  days! 
Along  the  foot  of  that  range  of  hills,  with  the  two  tall  palms  to 
the  right,  you  may  dig,  and  never  wash  a pan  of  earth  without 
finding  some  specks  of  gold  even  on  the  surface.  Far  beyond, 
in  that  chain — you  can  just  see  the  blue  tops  over  these  hills — 
there  are  evidences  of  ancient  workings,  and  even  now  the  wom- 
en who  go  there  are  tolerably  successful.  Under  your  feet, 
where  you  stand,  you  can  get  gold  by  simple  washing.  Pull 
up  a stalk  of  corn  from  yonder  plantation,  shake  the  roots  care- 
fully into  a bowl,  and  nine  times  out  of  ten  you  will  see  some 
yellow  dust ; and  look  at  the  adobe  of  which  the  walls  of  that 
stone  house  are  constructed : you  may  pulverize  any  of  those 
square  cakes  of  mud,  and  you  can  scarcely  fail  to  find,  after 
washing,  a few  specks  of  gold  at  the  bottom.  Gold!”  contin- 
ued my  friend,  pulling  nervously  at  the  cigarro  he  held  firmly 
in  his  thumb  and  finger,  “gold!  there  is  as  much  of  it  here, 
Don  Guillermo,  as  in  California.  We  only  need  the  energy  to 
get  it  out — the  enterprise  and  work  of  the  great  American  people. 
The  very  walls  of  our  houses  are  impregnated  with  gold!” 

I left  my  kind-hearted  old  friend,  and  strayed  down  to  a 
deep  place  in  the  Quebrada  to  bathe.  Here  I observed  a num- 
ber of  sensontes,  or  mocking-birds,  splashing  about  with  the 
same  object,  and  fluttering  distractedly  here  and  there,  now 
plunging  headlong  into  the  placid  element,  or  desisting  a while 
to  have  a jolly  fight  on  some  adjacent  tree,  from  which  they 
would  again  descend,  apparently  with  increased  zest,  to  the  bath. 
Some  of  them,  perched  among  the  foliage,  whiled  away  the  te- 
dious process  of  feather-drying  by  practicing  their  morning  con- 
cert, the  rich  strains  of  which  some  hook-beaked,  gawk y juaca- 


THE  ZELAYA  BROTHERS. 


305 


media  would  interrupt  with  his  harsh  voice,  and  then,  as  if  dis- 
satisfied with  his  ineffectual  competition,  compose  his  gorgeous 
plumage  and  sail  away,  until  his  gay  colors  faded  in  the  deep 
blue  of  the  sky. 

In  my  anxiety  to  reach  Jutecalpa,  I resolutely  refused  the 
tempting  invitations  to  remain  at  Galeras,  and  while  it  was  yet 
morning,  made  out  of  the  patio  in  company  with  the  three  eld- 
er brothers  and  several  younger  members  of  the  Zelaya  family. 
They  wished  to  accompany  me  a few  miles  on  the  road.  As 
we  passed  rapidly  along  in  the  face  of  a fresh  morning  breeze, 
the  three  old  men  separated  themselves  a while,  and  conversed 
earnestly  together.  An  occasional  glance  showed  me  they  were 
entertaining  my  proposals  for  a contract,  and  were  perhaps  dis- 
cussing my  own  claims  to  their  business  relations.  After  a 
while,  wheeling  their  horses,  which  up  to  now  had  been  held  to 
a hand-gallop,  they  came  nearer,  and  Don  Jose  Manuel,  the  eld- 
est, said, 

“ Don  Guillermo,  we  have  observed  that  something  troubles 
you ; perhaps  it  is  the  fear  that  we  shall  not  feel  disposed  to  en- 
ter into  a contract  with  you.  You  have  come  from  a long  dis- 
tance, and  are,  no  doubt,  associated  with  wealthy  and  great  men 
at  the  North.  They  expect  you  to  succeed,  and  you  shall.  Go 
to  Jutecalpa,  and  pass  th efuncion  in  feasting  and  dancing,  and 
when  you  have  seen  the  country,  come  to  us,  and  the  general 
shall  make  a contract  with  you  to  bring  the  good  and  industri- 
ous of  your  countrymen  to  Olancho  to  open  our  gold  mines. 
We  are  all  agreed  that  this  is  the  only  way  to  show  the  world 
what  Olancho  is,  and  could  we  be  young  again,  we  would  our- 
selves go  there,  leam  your  great  improvements,  and  do  for  Olan- 
cho what  I believe  the  Americans  will  eventually  accomplish.’' 

In  this  strain  the  simple-hearted  brothers  encouraged  me. 
After  a few  miles  they  reined  in,  and,  wishing  me  buen  viaje , 
wheeled  round  and  stretched  away  over  the  plain.  I stood  and 
watched  their  forms  until  the  intervening  woods  shut  them  out 
from  view.  Then,  with  a feeling  almost  of  home-sickness,  I 
turned  toward  the  eastward,  and  with  L and  my  two  serv- 

ants again  headed  for  Jutecalpa. 

U 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


306 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Gold  Washings  on  the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa. — The  Road. — Lignum  Vitce-trees. — 
Monte  de  Aguacate. — Dry  Gulches. — Mamaisaca. — More  Lavaderas. — Buying 
Gold  Dust. — Monte  Eucaitado. — The  Campanilla. — Scenery  on  the  Road.— 
Feathered  Horticulturists.  — Jutecalpa.  — View  from  the  Mountain. — First 
Impressions. — The  Church. — Introductions. — Don  Francisco  Garay. — One  of 
the  Hidalgos  of  Olancho. — The  Padres  Cubas  and  Buenaventura.. — Liberal 
Offers. — Map-making. — The  Climate. — Jutecalpa  in  the  Olden  Time. — Don 
Opolonio  Ocampo. — An  Adventure  with  the  Warees. — More  Gold-washing. — 
The  Liquid  Amber-tree. — Preparations  for  the  Funcion. — Applicants  for  Pock- 
et-money.— An  Olancho  Patriarch. — The  “ Plaza  de  Toros.” 

Shortly  after  parting  with  the  Zelajas  we  came  to  a piece 
of  sloping  land,  near  the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa,  where  the  ground 
seemed  to  have  been  skimmed  over  for  several  rods,  leaving  the 
bed-rock  bare  at  a depth  of  perhaps  fourteen  inches,  with  an 
appearance  like  that  remaining  after  the  California  operation  of 
“ ground-sluicing.”  I afterward  learned  that  a valuable  deposit 
of  gold,  indicated  by  an  abundance  of  a red,  ferruginous  rock 
resembling  cinnabar,  and  which  in  Olancho  is  considered  a cer- 
tain proof  of  the  existence  of  gold,  had  been  found  here.  The 
women  had  carried  this  earth  (answering  to  the  California  dry- 
diggings)  in  their  bateas  to  the  river,  where  in  a week  they 
washed  out  several  pounds  of  tine  gold.  Either  the  deposit  had 
given  out  at  the  limits  above-mentioned,  or  the  gold  had  become 
so  fine  and  scarce  as  not  to  warrant  the  snail-paced  operation 
of  lugging  the  earth  to  the  river  in  small  quantities.  I felt  al- 
most certain  that,  with  a set  of  hose  and  a full  hydraulic  appara- 
tus, such  as  that  used  in  Nevada  county,  the  entire  hill  could 
be  made  to  pay  large  wages.  The  labor  of  these  women  had 
been  performed  with  pointed  sticks,  and  not  a crowbar,  pick,  or 
shovel  had  ever  been  used  in  the  vicinity. 

From  Lepaguare  to  Jutecalpa  the  distance  is  some  thirty 
miles.  Under  the  impression  that  this  must  hereafter  be  trav- 
eled by  caretas  or  wagons  loaded  with  machinery,  I was  careful 
to  note  the  facilities  of  the  route ; and,  though  the  descent  from 
the  valley  of  Lepaguare  to  the  town  is  not  much  less  than  a 


THE  PEAK  OE  AGUACATE. 


307 


thousand  feet,  there  is  scarcely  a place  where  a loaded  wagon 
could  not  now  pass,  and,  with  a slight  improvement  of  some 
crossings  of  the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa,  the  road  would  answer  every 
purpose.  As  it  is,  one  may  ride  at  a hand-gallop  between  the 
two  places,  the  path  leading  for  the  most  part  over  level  savan- 
nas prettily  wooded  with  copses,  and  resembling  the  more  level 
portions  of  New  England.  In  some  places  the  way  was  bor- 
dered with  dense  thickets,  where  flowers  and  rare  plants  clus- 
tered in  close  proximity,  and  afforded  shelter  to  a variety  of 
birds  and  animals. 

Among  the  trees  I saw  the  lignum  vitae  (or  guaiacum ), 
here  known  as  the  guayacan.  This  valuable  wood  is  rarely 
felled  except  by  the  mahogany-cutters,  owing  to  its  extreme 
hardness.  I believe  it  is  identical  with  a wood  I often  heard 
mentioned  as  the  “ quebrac/ia”  ( quebra-hacha , or  break-axe), 
and  growing  wild  in  all  the  low  forests  of  Eastern  Honduras, 
along  with  the  rosewood  and  mahogany.  The  tree  usually  at- 
tains a height  of  forty  feet.  The  foliage  is  peculiar,  resembling 
that  of  the  cypress,  and  bearing  a profusion  of  small,  whitish 
flowers.  Among  the  Poyas  Indians  the  bark  and  gum  are  used 
as  medicines.  The  guayacan  generally  makes  a portion  of  the 
mahogany  raft  floating  down  the  Guayape  or  Patook. 

By  noon  we  had  reached  a conical  mountain,  standing  to  the 
northeastward  of  our  route,  known  as  El  Pico  de  Aguacate , at 
the  foot  of  which  the  QuebraAa , or  creek  of  that  name,  flows 
brawling  along,  and  precipitates  itself  into  the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa 
below.  Here  again  we  obtained  traces  of  gold  washing.  The 
mercury  in  my  circular  thermometer,  as  we  rode  in  the  sun, 
stood  at  80°.  White,  fleecy  clouds  passed  briskly  overhead, 
impelled  by  the  fresh  breeze  that  rustled  among  the  foliage,  and 
at  no  time  during  our  ride  did  we  experience  discomfort  from 

heat.  While  L made  a sketch  of  the  Peak  of  Aguacate, 

the  boys  unloaded  the  pack-mule  and  spread  out  our  eating 
paraphernalia  on  the  grass.  Small,  delicate  flowers,  such  as 
those  seen  in  the  temperate  zones,  nodded  gayly  in  the  wind 
about  us,  and  adorned  the  sides  of  the  adjacent  hill-slopes. 

There  are  numerous  dry  gulches  skirted  with  pines  through- 
out this  part  of  the  country,  resembling  in  every  respect  those 
of  California.  My  servants,  who  had  lived  always  among  the 


308 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


soberer  scenery  of  the  department  of  Tegucigalpa,  and  never  be- 
fore realized  scenes  so  beautiful  as  these,  vented  their  admira- 
tion in  simple  ejaculations,  and  begged  me  to  remember  and  em- 
ploy them  again  on  my  return  with  the  great  company  from  el 
Norte. 

After  leaving  Aguacate  we  met  several  persons  on  the  road, 
mostly  mounted,  who,  rejoiced  at  such  an  opportunity  of  learn- 
ing the  latest  news  from  the  outer  world,  turned  back  and  rode 
with  us  some  distance.  I took  care  to  impress  them  with  the 
importance  of  los  Americanos  del  Norte , and  the  inestimable 
benefits  they  would  confer  upon  Olancho  as  agriculturists  and 
miners.  We  crossed  the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa  eight  times  on  our 
journey  to  the  town.  In  several  localities  we  found  the  marks 
of  recent  gold-washing.  At  this  time,  and,  indeed,  for  several 
weeks  before  the  Funcion  de  la  Virgen,  the  women,  with  re- 
ligious zeal,  address  themselves  steadily  to  working  along  the 
river  beds  to  meet  the  expenses  of  the  ceremonies,  of  decorating 
the  church,  and  of  adorning  themselves  in  the  simple  finery  of 
the  tiendas.  Among  the  small  streams  flowing  into  the  river 
was  that  of  Tilapa,  also  noted  for  some  “ rich  strikes”  made  by 
the  women  some  years  previous.  From  this  place  the  distance 
to  the  hacienda  and  hamlet  of  Mamaisaca  is  two  leagues,  anoth- 
er by  the  windings  of  the  road  to  the  hacienda  of  Nance,  and 
thence  two  more  to  Jutecalpa. 

At  Mamaisaca  we  overtook  two  girls  cautiously  wading  across 

the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa.  L accosted  them  good-naturedly, 

and  inquired  the  distance  to  town.  “ Aqui  no  mas ” (just  here), 
they  replied.  “ Do  you  see  how  crumpled  their  dresses  are  ?” 

said  L : “ that  is  a sign  that  they  have  been  washing  gold ; 

they  have  had  their  skirts  tied  tightly  around  them  while  stand- 
ing in  the  water.”  I endeavored  to  get  them  into  conversation, 
but  they  only  looked  stupidly  at  each  other  and  smiled ; they 
seemed  afraid  to  reply,  or  even  to  look  at  us.  After  repeated 
trials,  however,  we  conquered  their  diffidence,  and  found  out  that 
L — — - was  right  in  his  conjecture  as  to  their  recent  occupation. 
I offered  to  buy  their  gold  if  they  would  call  on  me  at  Jutecal- 
pa, upon  which  they  readily  exhibited  what  they  had  collected. 
They  had  left  their  sticks  and  bateas  at  the  Quebrada  below, 
where  they  intended  to  return  the  following  day.  The  oldest 


THE  CAMPANULA. 


309 


took  out  of  her  bosom  a cloth  which  she  carefully  unrolled,  dis- 
covering a quill  nearly  filled  with  fine  scaly  particles  of  that 
deep  yellow  hue  which  distinguishes  the  gold  of  the  Guayape 
and  its  tributaries  from  that  of  other  portions  of  Olancho  and 
Segovia,  where  its  white  appearance  indicated  a partial  amalga- 
mation with  other  metals  or  substances.  The  quill  was  still 
wet,  and  the  finer  dust  adhered  to  the  inside,  which  prevented 
my  turning  the  whole  of  it  out ; but  on  afterward  weighing  it 
at  Jutecalpa  there  was  about  a quarter  of  an  ounce,  which  I 
bought  for  a trifle  over  two  dollars  in  silver. 

Here  we  took  leave  of  our  lavaderas,  and,  rising  the  bank 
from  the  river,  came  in  full  view  of  a beautiful  peak,  known  as 
el  Monte  Encantado , or  the  Enchanted  Mountain,  from  the  tra- 
dition that  its  summit  is  the  haunt  of  the  spirits  of  the  abo- 
rigines, whence  issue  pale  fires  and  the  sounds  of  solemn  bells. 
The  natives  pass  the  vicinity  of  the  Encantado  with  deep  awe, 
and  beads  are  told  with  double  unction  when  approaching  its 
mysterious  precincts. 

The  harmless  little  meteor  of  the  forest,  the  lantern-fly,  prob- 
ably supplies  the  spectral  lights,  and  the  campanero  or  campa- 
nula (bell-ringers)  the  solemn  tolling.  The  bird  producing  this 
sound  is  found  throughout  Honduras.  The  traveler  plodding- 
through  the  woods  is  startled  with  the  distant  tone  of  a bell 
floating  on  the  waves  of  the  air,  with  the  undulations  peculiar 
to  a heavy  belfry  tenant.  He  pauses  to  listen,  and,  after  a short 
interval,  again  hears  the  sound  piercing  the  solitudes,  and  re- 
sembling the  muffled  clang  of  some  deep-mouthed  convent  bell. 
The  campanero  tolls  about  an  hour  toward  evening ; he  is  an 
unassuming  fellow,  with  few  of  the  gaudy  trappings  of  his  feath- 
ered companions,  and  affects  the  shadiest  depths  of  the  forest. 
He  is  rarely  seen,  and  is  said  to  erect  a remarkable  crest  from 
his  head  as  he  plays  ventriloquist  free  of  charge. 

The  whole  route  toward  Jutecalpa  abounds  in  pretty  views, 
and,  Jew-like,  I felt  a grasping  desire  to  preserve  them  all. 
Sometimes  the  path  led  us  through  a natural  arbor,  like  those 
seen  at  Hartford  and  New  Haven ; or  into  a Gothic  jungle, 
gaudy  as  an  Italian  dress-circle,  draped  with  laines  and  tasseled 
with  blossoms ; sometimes  we  entered  a miniature  valley,  in 
which  the  rude  cabin  of  the  little  hacienda  peeped  out  from 


310 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


among  a mass  of  fruit-trees — beans,  rice,  pumpkins,  and  oranges 
grouped  together,  and  among  them  the  bronzed  ninas  (whose 
simple  attire  consisted  of  a string  of  beads  and  a shock  of  frow- 
zy hair)  stared  half  frightened  at  us  from  the  foliage  of  which 
(so  motionless  were  they)  they  seemed  to  form  a part ; or,  pass- 
ing a section  of  more  open  country,  we  found  ourselves  thrid- 
ding  little  copses  of  the  jicoral , the  Ganymede  of  Olancho,  whose 
ruddy  limbs  present  to  the  traveler  the  indispensable  calabash, 
or  drinking-cup  of  the  woods. 

The  birds  of  Olancho  are  the  most  persevering  horticulturists 
in  the  country.  As  if  by  design  of  Providence,  they  carry  the 
seeds  of  a variety  of  fruits  in  their  beaks,  or  drop  them  undi- 
gested about  the  hills  and  valleys,  where,  in  the  fat  soil,  nour- 
ished by  copious  rains  and  sunshine,  they  speedily  germinate. 
Many  fruits  are  thus  distributed  about  the  country.  I thus 
accounted  for  the  frequent  lemon,  orange,  and  sweet  lime  trees 
appearing  along  the  road.  The  delicious  salsi,  already  de- 
scribed, has  been  spread  over  Olancho  in  this  way,  and  the  va- 
nilla is  no  doubt  disseminated  in  a similar  manner. 

But  I was  too  anxious  to  view  the  goal  of  my  hopes,  Jute- 
calpa,  to  give  much  attention  to  these  subjects.  The  botanist 
has  here  an  extensive  field,  and  many  valuable  drugs,  plants, 
and  superb  flowers  will  yet  be  brought  to  light,  as  the  country 
is  opened  up  to  scientific  research. 

On  leaving  Lepaguare,  the  general  had  insisted  on  our  leav- 
ing our  shaggy  mountain  mules  to  recuperate  at  the  hacienda, 
supplying  their  places  with  fine,  vigorous  horses,  for  our  serv- 
ants as  well  as  for  ourselves.  My  own  (which  the  generous  old 
man  afterward  gave  me)  was  a tordilla , or  spotted  animal, 
spirited  and  well-knit.  They  bore  us  with  unwearied  pace  up 
the  slopes  of  the  hills,  until  the  frequent  trains  of  mules  and 
natives,  plodding  toward  the  eastward,  showed  us  we  were  near 
our  journey’s  end.  We  spurred  up  the  gentle  ascent  to  the 
ridge  overlooking  the  valley  of  Jutecalpa,  and,  resting  at  the 
summit,  gazed  down,  through  the  dim  light  of  the  evening,  upon 
the  capital  of  Olancho. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  describe  the  pleasure  with  which  T 
contemplated  in  silence  the  splendid  landscape  glimmering  in  the 
last  ray  of  sunset,  and  the  odd-looking,  superannuated  Spanish 


JUTECALPA, 


311 


JUTECALPA  FIUXM  THE  SOUTHWEST. 


town  spread  out  beneath  us.  Long  had  this  place  been  pic- 
tured to  my  imagination,  and  now,  after  months  of  expectation. 
I found  myself  within  sound  of  its  church  bells  and  local  bustle. 
Far  removed  from  the  ordinary  routes  of  travel  or  commerce, 
almost  a myth  even  in  secluded  Central  America,  enjoying  an 
ancient  reputation  as  the  centre  of  the  gold  region,  which,  two 
centuries  ago,  before  civilization  had  well  commenced  to  subdue 
the  wilderness  of  New  England,  attracted  the  followers  of  Al- 
varado and  the  mailed  cavaliers  of  the  Conquest,  Jutecalpa  is 
invested  with  an  interest  to  the  modern  adventurer  only  equaled 
by  that  attached  to  the  mysterious  ruins  of  aboriginal  Chichen, 
Uxmal,  or  Palenque. 

A vast  plain,  lost  in  the  horizon,  yet  bounded,  as  we  could 
with  difficulty  discern,  by  ranges  of  rounded,  wood-crowned 
mountains,  spread  away  to  the  east  and  north,  on  which  the  pur- 
ple clouds  of  the  west  shed  a ruddy  glow,  faintly  tinting  the 
hills,  and  indicating  by  a streak  of  light  the  winding  course  of 
the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa,  which,  passing  north  of  the  town,  enters 
the  Guayape  some  miles  below.  The  distant  tapping  of  a drum 
denoted  the  prevalence  of  the  immemorial  custom  of  patrolling 
the  Plaza  at  nightfall,  and  the  pealing  of  the  camjpana  de  ora- 


312 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


cion  reminded  us  that  here  too  was  observed  the  beautiful  rite 

I have  frequently  alluded  to  in  previous  pages.  L aroused 

me  from  my  reverie,  and,  rapidly  descending,  we  entered  the 
paved  streets  of  the  town.  The  place  is  not  unlike  Tegucigalpa 
in  point  of  architecture,  but  about  one  thud  the  size,  having  the 
usual  church,  Plaza,  cabilda,  and  principal  private  dwellings, 
and  the  streets  running  nearly  at  right  angles.  Some  of  the 
houses  are  handsome  two-story  edifices,  neatly  whitewashed, 
tiled,  and  with  extensive  fruit-gardens  in  the  rear.  The  church, 
a recent  one,  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  building,  and  was  con- 
structed partly  from  the  pious  contributions  of  the  lavaderas. 

We  stopped  at  a small  tienda  forming  the  corner  of  two 
streets,  and  inquired  for  the  house  of  Senor  Gardela.  His  res- 
idence, counted  the  finest  in  the  town,  forms  part  of  the  south- 
ern side  of  the  square.  The  Senor  Gardela  was  absent  at  one 
of  his  haciendas,  and  the  house,  though  shut  up,  remained,  as 
one  of  the  servants  informed  us,  at  the  disposal  of  the  strangers. 
We  preferred,  however,  to  proceed  to  the  residence  of  the  vener- 
able Don  Francisco  Garay,  of  whom  we  had  heard  as  a wealthy 
citizen  living  in  solitary  state  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and 
who  was  a warm  compadre  of  the  general  Zelaya. 

After  some  delay  a little  knot  of  people  had  collected,  who  kind- 
ly offered  to  conduct  us.  We  crossed  the  square,  following  the  di- 
rection indicated  by  our  guides,  and  stopped  before  a large  white 
building  with  grated  windows,  and  apparently  shut  up  on  all 
sides.  We  knocked  repeatedly  at  the  door,  and  receiving  no  an- 
swer, Victor,  by  my  direction,  thundered  away  at  the  great  gate- 
way to  the  right,  communicating  with  the  back  patio.  Pres- 
ently the  heavy  wooden  shutter  of  the  window  was  opened,  and 
a figure  clad  in  white,  as  we  could  see  through  the  darkness, 
looked  out  and  shouted  “ Quien  ?” 

L replied  that  we  bore  letters  of  introduction  to  Senor 

Garay,  and  were  desirous  of  passing  the  night  at  the  house. 
The  message  was  delivered,  and  immediately  a gruff  voice,  evi- 
dently of  a man  far  advanced  in  years,  issued  from  the  window, 
asking  our  names. 

Learning  who  we  were,  he  apologized  for  the  delay,  and  bade 
us  enter  “in  the  name  of  God.”  At  the  same  time  the  gate- 
way was  thrown  open,  and  we  rode  into  the  yard. 


A PATRIARCH  OF  OLANCHO. 


313 


We  came  into  a large  patio,  and  leaving  Victor  and  Roberto 
to  take  care  of  the  beasts,  followed  an  Indian  boy  into  the  sala, 
where  we  presented  ourselves  to  a venerable  white-haired  per- 
sonage, who  rose  with  difficulty  to  receive  us  from  an  immense 
hammock  stretching  entirely  across  the  apartment.  He  was  of 
Herculean  frame,  and  must  have  been,  half  a century  ago,  a fine- 
looking  man.  He  received  our  letters  with  dignity,  glancing 
over  them  through  his  spectacles,  and  repeating  his  cordial  wel- 
come, at  the  same  time  roaring  with  the  voice  of  a Stentor  for 
supper  “ muy  pronto1'  for  the  visitors.  The  house  was  quick- 
ly astir,  and  in  half  an  hour  we  were  seated  at  an  ample  table, 
spread  with  more  dainties  than  I had  the  time  or  inclination  to 
take  note  of. 

This  was  the  famous  Don  Francisco  Garay,  the  Croesus  of 
Olancho,  owner  of  ten  thousand  head  of  cattle  and  six  estates, 
among  them  the  beautiful  and  extensive  La  Heradura.  Our 
host,  after  regaining  his  hammock,  lighted  a cigarro,  and  was 
speedily  informed  as  to  the  object  of  my  visit  and  the  affairs 
of  the  world  generally.  Here  was  a simple-hearted,  hospita- 
ble old  man,  white-haired,  and  of  courteous  aspect,  who  had 
never  been  beyond  the  confines  of  Olancho  in  his  life  of  some 
eighty  years.  His  cattle  alone,  if  estimated  at  the  standard  set 
after  the  gold  discoveries  in  California  by  the  owner  of  estates 
in  that  country,  would  count  up  to  a princely  fortune,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  untold  herds  of  mules  and  horses,  and  the  leagues 
of  finest  land,  located  in  one  of  the  most  healthy  and  picturesque 
countries  in  the  world ! 

He  had  brought  up  a family  of  fourteen  children,  and  his  wife 
dying,  and  with  little  other  occupation  or  amusement,  he  had 
devoted  his  life  to  improving  his  property,  frequently  dispatch- 
ing a train  of  a hundred  mules  to  Truxillo,  loaded  with  cheese, 
deer-skins,  and  hides,  or  sending  great  droves  of  cattle,  horses, 
and  mules  to  Guatemala  or  the  fair  of  San  Miguel.  About 
twenty  years  ago  he  was  thrown  from  his  saddle  by  a vicious 
wild  horse,  and  his  leg  broken  by  the  fall.  It  was  set  by  some 
botching  itinerant,  rendering  him  a cripple  thenceforth.  With 
the  exception  of  short  rides  upon  some  gentle  mule,  selected 
carefully  and  broken  for  his  special  use,  he  had  resigned  his 
active  labors  and  the  supervision  of  his  hacienda  to  his  children. 


314 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


His  time  is  now  spent  swinging  in  his  beloved  hammock,  where 
he  smokes  the  livelong  day. 

Among  his  children  was  a daughter,  for  some  years  married 
to  Senor  Zelaya,  Alcalde  Primer o of  Tegucigalpa.  The  old 
man  told  us,  as  a matter  of  great  interest,  that  he  had  sent  for 
her  to  pass  the  fundon  in  Olancho.  The  sons,  absent  in  dis- 
tant sections  of  the  department,  were  also  expected  to  be  pres- 
ent during  the  approaching  fiesta,  and  a general  reunion  of  the 
family  was  to  take  place.  “ You  could  not  have  arrived  more 
opportunely,”  continued  our  host,  after  imparting,  between  the 
whiffs  of  his  cigarro,  the  above  details  ; “ the  town  will  now  re- 
semble its  old  festive  and  holiday  times,  when  the  gold  placers 
were  producing  such  vast  wealth  under  the  Spaniards.” 

It  was  nearly  midnight  when  we  had  exchanged  protestations 
of  friendship  with  the  old  Olanchano,  and  learned  from  his  own 
garrulous  lips  the  details  of  his  life,  family,  and  possessions. 
We,  in  turn,  retailed  the  leading  political  and  social  events  of  the 
past  year,  of  which,  in  his  seclusion,  he  had  heard  but  indistinct 
or  exaggerated  accounts.  He  listened  attentively  to  our  com- 
ments on  the  European  war,  destined,  in  his  opinion,  to  entail 
even  greater  bloodshed  and  national  changes  than  those  of  Na- 
poleon. We  then  had  our  hammocks  swung,  and,  wearied  with 
our  thirty  miles  ride,  were  quickly  in  the  land  of  dreams. 

The  arrival  of  an  Americano  del  Norte  created  an  unusual 
sensation  in  the  little  social  community  of  Jutecalpa.  The  sola. 
of  Senor  Garay  was  thronged  on  the  following  day.  Among 
my  visitors  were  the  Curate  Padre  Francisco  Cubas,  Padre  Bu- 
enaventura Colindres,  Senor  Felipe  Bustillos,  Mateos  Polvon, 
and  numerous  other  worthies  of  the  town.  The  ceremony  of 
introduction  to  these  was  a bit  of  ludicrous  formality,  which  any 
where  else  would  have  kept  me  well  employed  in  commanding 
my  risibles,  but  several  months  of  experience  had  made  these 
matters  second  nature.  The  Padre  Colindres,  or  Buenaventu- 
ra, as  he  was  familiarly  called,  soon  became  interested  in  my 
projects.  Pie  was  an  extremely  popular  man  among  all  classes, 
with  a great  brain  stuffed  with  country  knowledge,  but  no  read- 
ing beyond  the  Missal,  Prayer-book,  and  an  occasional  news- 
paper from  Tegucigalpa.  He  examined  with  great  curiosity 
the  maps  which  I had  taken  with  me  of  the  United  States,  and 


CLERICAL  CHARACTERS.  315 

» 

especially  of  California.  He  copied  off  the  names  of  the  states, 
and  was  for  some  time  engaged  in  studying  out  a brief  transla- 
tion I made  for  him  of  the  forms  of  local  government  in  the 
States,  and  other  general  matters  in  relation  to  “ el  Norte 
The  Padre  Cura , or  Curate  of  Jutecalpa,  Francisco  Cubas, 
ranks  above  Padre  Buenaventura.  Each  has  his  section  of  the 
department  allotted  to  him,  where  they  make  a semiannual 
visit  for  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  people.  I returned  the  vis- 
its of  both,  and  was  fortunate  to  conciliate  their  good-will.  As 
I have  before  remarked,  the  countenance  and  favor  of  the  priest- 
hood is  a powerful  auxiliary  to  the  successful  issue  of  any  en- 
terprise among  Spanish  Americans. 

While  at  the  house  of  the  cur  a at  the  time  of  the  succeeding 
funcion , I had  an  opportunity  of  observing  the  power  possessed 
by  the  clergy  over  the  people,  and  their  readiness  to  contribute 
to  its  support.  Several  stout  young  fellows  entered  successive- 
ly during  our  interview,  and,  making  a low  obeisance  at  the 
door,  came  forward  and  deposited  with  their  spiritual  adviser 
various  sums,  from  one  to  four  dollars,  to  propitiate  the  Virgin 
in  their  favor.  These  the  padre  told  me  were  part  of  their 
earnings  at  monte,  the  favorite  game  of  the  Spaniard  the  world 
over.  These  were  followed  by  whole  processions  of  women  and 
old  men,  each  willing  to  atone  for  some  peccadillo  by  a trifle  to 
the  Virgin.  The  padre,  who  is  not  over  thirty,  I thought  the 
most  intelligent  man  I had  seen  in  Olancho.  He  was  self-edu- 
cated in  Latin  and  French,  and  his  library,  of  some  twro  hund- 
red theological,  metaphysical,  and  historical  works,  showed  him 
to  be  no  superficial  reader. 

At  the  house  of  Senor  Garay  I had  scarcely  remained  an 
hour  before  I had  made  half  a dozen  appointments  with  as 
many  persons  for  excursions  to  various  parts  of  the  depart- 
ment; among  others,  a journey  to  the  famous  Indian  trading 
town  of  Catacamas,  a few  days’  journey  toward  the  coast,  near 
where  the  Guayambre  flows  into  the  Guayape,  and  known  as 
‘■‘•La  Conjluencia  de  los  Rios .”  Every  body  seemed  imbued 
with  a desire  to  bring  to  my  notice  some  notable  spot  once  cele- 
brated as  gold  placei'S,  and  which,  if  their  grave  statements  were 
to  be  taken,  might,  with  a proper  amount  of  knowledge  and  en- 
terprise, be  brought  to  produce  millions. 


316 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


As  usual,  I spread  out  my  map  of  Olancho,  which  became  an 
object  of, general  interest,  both  on  this  occasion  and  throughout 
Jutecalpa.  Many  came  to  see  it,  and  each  had  some  hacienda 
to  insert,  or  some  range  of  hills  or  river  to  suggest.  The 
most  ignorant  understood  the  nature  of  the  work,  but  I found 
their  estimates  of  distances  very  unreliable  in  cases  where  an 
American  backwoodsman  would  be  clear  and  accurate.  To  ob- 
tain the  direction  to  any  locality,  I would  ask  half  a dozen  suc- 
cessively to  point  out  what  they  would  consider  the  exact 
course,  and  in  this  particular  I invariably  found  them  to  agree. 
Few  knew  any  thing  about  the  points  of  the  compass,  or  the 
position  of  the  north  star ; but  their  ideas  of  direction  were  al- 
most infallible,  and  as  reliable  among  themselves  as  the  ancient 
system  of  navigation  by  the  stars.  On  ascertaining  the  exact 
bearings  of  a place  by  my  compass  I located  it  on  the  map,  and 
then  pursued  a separate  series  of  questions  as  to  what  streams, 
mountains,  and  valleys  must  be  crossed  to  reach  it.  The  state- 
ment that  a compass  is  valueless  in  the  mountains  of  Honduras, 
owing  to  the  mineral  deposits,  is  simply  absurd,  and  not  entitled 
to  a moment’s  consideration. 

I have  already  devoted  undue  space  to  descriptions  of  the 
climate  of  Olancho.  It  is  because  the  old-fashioned  and  com- 
monly-received opinions  regarding  these  “ terrible  tropics”  have 
kept  possession  of  the  public  mind,  that  I have  endeavored  to 
show  that  these  elevated  table-lands,  fanned  by  the  invigorating 
sea  winds,  are  equally  healthy  with  the  delightful  regions  of 
Pueblo,  Jalapa,  and  Mexico — places  yet  fresh  in  the  mind  of 
every  American  who  visited  them  during  the  Mexican  war. 

I do  not  deem  it  probable  that  Americans  visiting  Olancho, 
or,  indeed,  any  part  of  interior  Honduras,  will  degenerate  by  rea- 
son of  the  air  or  the  indolent  habits  consequent  upon  association 
with  the  effete  races  of  Spanish  America.  Over  fields  teeming 
with  gold,  the  Yankee  can  not  resist  the  temptation  to  labor,  and 
it  is  my  conviction  that  in  Olancho  alone,  of  all  tropical  Amer- 
ica, the  problem  of  colonization  by  the  industrious  citizens  of 
the  North  will  be  peacefully  and  effectually  solved.  The  hills 
covered  with  foliage,  and  the  plains  with  deep  grass,  preserve 
a moisture  in  the  earth  during  nine  months  of  the  year  (June  to 
February  inclusive),  and  the  trade-winds  blowing  at  all  seasons 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  OLANCHO. 


317 


temper  the  air  to  a delightful  mean.  At  Jutecalpa,  Lepaguare, 
Concepcion,  Catacamas,  or  Las  Flores,  all  of  them  healthy  lo- 
cations, but  particularly  the  two  first  named,  thriving  trading- 
stations  can  be  established,  which,  under  the  guidance  of  enter- 
prising Americans,  and  protected  by  a wise  and  stable  govern- 
ment, may  be  increased  to  flourishing  towns,  supported  by  an 
unfailing  supply  of  gold,  endless  cattle,  horses,  and  mules,  a 
peaceable  population,  and  one  of  the  most  prolific  agricultural 
regions  in  the  world. 

The  town  of  Jutecalpa,  though  built  on  the  site  of  an  ancient 
Indian  village  of  that  name,  is  not  of  such  antiquity  as  the  old 
capital  of  this  section  of  Central  America,  Olancho,  now  known 
as  Olancho  Viejo  or  Antigua , and  of  which  the  ruins  only  exist 
to  denote  its  former  importance.  These  are  situated  at  the  foot 
of  the  Monte  Bogueron , on  the  Rio  de  Olancho,  toward  Cataca- 
mas, and  their  description  I have  reserved  until  my  narrative 
brings  me  to  that  locality.  Jutecalpa,  previous  to  the  destruc- 


CALLE  DE  CONCEPCION,  JUTECALPA. 


tion  of  Olancho,  was  an  unimportant  village.  Although  the  com- 
mercial centre  of  Eastern  Honduras,  a region  comprising  more 
territory  than  the  whole  of  San  Salvador  and  Costa  Rica,  the 
town,  until  lately,  has  not  found  a place  on  any  map  of  Central 
America.  Its  very  existence  seems  to  have  been  ignored,  like 
that  of  the  other  towns  of  Olancho.  It  has  rarely  been  visited 
even  by  the  few  adventurous  mahogany-cutters  penetrating  to 
the  interior  during  the  last  century  from  the  settlements  at  Ba- 


318 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


lize  and  along  the  eastern  coast.  It  is  now  the  head-quarters 
of  traffic  for  the  department.  The  town  is  said  to  have  formerly- 
contained  upward  of  eight  thousand  inhabitants,  but  the  decline 
of  trade,  the  decay  of  mining  enterprises  under  the  shifting  re- 
publican governments,  and  latterly  the  ravages  of  the  langostas , 
or  locusts  (sweeping  away  whole  crops  in  a single  night),  have 
combined  to  decrease  the  population  of  Jutecalpa  to  about  four 
thousand,  which,  at  times  of  public  celebrations,  is  temporarily 
trebled. 

A system  of  roads,  or  rather  mule-trails,  centring  at  Jutecal- 
pa, extends  over  the  department.  Nearly  all  the  wealthy  own- 
ers of  cattle  estates  have  residences  in  town. 

In  collecting  data  relating  to  Olancho,  I was  introduced  to  a 
Costa  Bican,  Senor  Opolonio  Ocampo,  who  had  been  engaged 
for  several  years  in  cutting  mahogany  on  the  Guayape,  Guay- 
ambre,  and  Jalan.  I first  met  him  at  the  house  of  Senor  Ga- 
ray, and  our  acquaintance  ripened  into  an  intimacy,  which  last- 
ed until  my  departure  from  Olancho.  Liberally  educated  and 
intelligent,  and  his  sagacity  sharpened  by  intercourse  with  the 
London  mahogany  dealers  at  Balize,  he  was  peculiarly  quali- 
fied to  obtain  reliable  information,  which  his  habits  of  observa- 
tion had  enabled  him  to  treasure  up  during  his  constant  travels 
through  the  interior  and  rafting  on  the  Guayape  and  Patook 
Bivers.  He  had  at  times  some  hundreds  of  men  employed  in 
his  cortes  or  cuttings  on  the  Guayape  and  its  tributaries.  I am 
particularly  indebted  to  Don  Opolonio  for  minute  details  re- 
specting the  course  of  the  principal  rivers  below  the  points 
where  I visited  them. 

For  several  days  previous  to  the  funcion,  I rode  about  the 
country  in  company  with  Senor  Ocampo.  We  usually  carried 
arms,  more  at  my  suggestion  than  any  supposition  on  his  part 
that  we  should  need  them.  While  visiting  the  village  of  Jute- 
quili,  about  eighteen  miles  northwest  of  Jutecalpa,  we  encoun- 
tered on  the  road  a vicious-looking  little  wild  pig,  which  I was 
about  to  dose  with  one  of  my  leaden  pills,  when  Don  Opolonio 
advised  me  to  abstain,  as  where  one  of  these  animals  was  to  be 
found  there  was  often  a large  drove,  whose  courage  and  ferocity 
were  not  to  be  despised.  I suffered  the  little  fellow  to  trot  into 
the  bushes,  but  the  road  a few  hundred  yards  in  advance  was 


THE  WAREE. 


319 


shortly  afterward  filled  with  them.  The  animal  is  known  on 
the  coast  as  the  Waree  or  Worry.  I could  not  refrain  from  dis- 
mounting and  leveling  my  rifle,  despite  the  advice  of  the  seiior, 
and  with  the  report  the  largest  I could  select  described  a series 
of  rotary  gallops,  grunting  with  savage  fury,  and  at  last  rolled 
over  and  kicked  himself  out  of  existence.  It  was  curious  to 
observe  the  rest  of  the  herd  as  they  viewed  his  contortions. 
Don  Opolonio  walked  his  horse  slowly  away,  evidently  determ- 
ined to  place  a respectful  distance  between  himself  and  the 
porkers. 

As  the  herd  did  nothing  but  grunt  and  squeal,  cantering 
about,  and  rooting  at  the  body  of  their  comrade,  I paid  the  same 
compliment  from  beside  my  horse  to  another.  The  moment 
their  little  red  eyes  caught  sight  of  me,  they  started  full  tilt  aft- 
er the  origin  of  all  their  trouble.  I swung  myself  into  the  sad- 
dle, and,  turning  tail  upon  the  advancing  legion,  it  was  a ques- 
tion of  mettle  between  Don  Opolonio  and  myself  who  should 
get  over  the  greatest  space  of  ground  in  the  shortest  given  time. 
They  followed  us  several  hundred  yards,  and  finding  their  pow- 
ers of  locomotion  unequal  to  the  task,  returned  to  the  dead  bod- 
ies, and  recommenced  their  rooting.  We  followed  them  up  and 
shot  four,  when  the  whole  herd  regarding  this  as  very  unequal 
sport,  galloped  away  into  the  woods,  leaving  us  in  possession 
of  the  field. 

They  are  a brave,  slender-legged,  nimble  creature,  in  shape 
something  like  a cross  between  the  common  pig  and  a porcu- 
pine, with  small,  wicked  eyes,  formidable  tusks,  and  generally 
of  a dirty  brown  or  mud  color.  They  run  in  the  mountains  in 
droves,  where  they  are  sometimes  encountered  by  the  lonely 
traveler,  who  is  often  obliged  to  take  to  the  nearest  tree  for  ref- 
uge, especially  if  he  has  had  the  temerity  to  shoot  one  of  their 
number.  At  such  times  he  may  fire  away  from  his  perch  with 
perfect  safety,  and,  though  his  gun  may  lay  half  their  number 
low,  they  will  continue  to  rush  around  the  tree  among  the  bod- 
ies of  their  slain  companions,  gnashing  their  tusks  and  emitting 
a low,  enraged  grunt,  until  their  leader,  commonly  a large  fero- 
cious boar,  is  killed,  when  they  scamper  away  with  all  speed, 
his  loss  completely  discouraging  their  porcine  ferocity. 

In  a domesticated  state  they  run  from  door  to  door  in  the 


320 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


villages,  devouring  what  offal  may  be  thrown  out,  and  disput- 
ing with  the  zopilotes  for  the  office  of  public  scavengers.  The 
barelegged  youngsters  early  leam  the  virtue  of  the  waree’s 
glistening  teeth.  The  animal  is  rarely  hunted  either  in  Hon- 
duras or  Costa  Rica,  where  they  particularly  abound,  and  have 
been  erroneously  taken  for  the  peccary.  As  an  illustration  of 
the  variety  of  local  appellations  of  many  animals  as  well  as 
birds  of  Honduras,  by  which  the  stranger,  if  unacquainted  with 
the  language,  is  liable  to  be  led  to  bewildering  conclusions,  the 
names  of  the  waree  will  serve  as  an  instance.  Within  a circle 
of  a hundred  miles  he  is  called  waree,  chancha  del  monte,  jave- 
lin, peccary,  sujejina,  warry,  and  puerco  bravo.  He  rejoices  also 
in  a Latin  name. 

There  are  numerous  mines  or placeres  in  the  vicinity  of  Jute- 
calpa.  These,  however,  are  not  very  productive,  and  are  only 
known  as  spots  where  from  time  to  time  some  specks  of  the 
precious  metal  have  been  found.  Near  Monte  Rosa,  to  the 
southeast,  there  are  places  to  which  the  lavaderas  repair  after 
the  freshets,  and  collect  considerable  quantities.  But  the  labor 
of  the  old  Spaniards,  as  of  the  women  of  the  present  time,  seems 
to  have  been  mainly  directed  to  the  sands  of  the  streams,  rather 
than  to  changing  the  course  of  rivers  or  digging  deep  in  the  dry 
ravines  and  gulches,  where  in  California  the  greatest  abundance 
is  found. 

While  riding  to  Monte  Rosa  with  Padre  Buenaventura  for 
the  purpose  of  examining  these  piaceres,  we  found  two  children 
— girls — washing  gold  in  the  river.  The  little  creatures  had 
brought  the  earth  in  rude  baskets  of  palm  leaf  from  a distance 
of  half  a mile,  and  the  particles  of  gold  were  plainly  visible  aft- 
er the  operation  of  washing.  We  waited  until  they  had  finish- 
ed their  work,  and,  at  the  bidding  of  the  padre,  they  returned 
with  us  to  the  spot.  It  was  on  the  side  of  a small  hill,  where 
the  red  earth  indicated  gold.  The  bed-rock  here  came  near  the 
surface,  leaving  the  earth  about  a foot  deep.  This  the  little  la- 
borers scraped  away,  and,  gathering  up  the  clayey  substance 
below,  swept  the  rock  quite  clean.  They  had  thus  cleared 
away  a space  a yard  square,  and  from  that  had  obtained  about 
fifteen  cents  worth  of  a pure,  scaly  gold,  beautifully  yellow  in 
hue,  and  of  a quality  only  profitably  to  be  worked  with  quick- 


THE  LIQUID  AMBER-TREE.  321 

silver.  The  operation  of  “ground-sluicing”  would  here  pay 
good  wages. 

It  was  on  this  trip  that  I first  saw  the  tree  from  which  liquid 
amber  distills.  It  is  indigenous  to  various  sections  of  Central 
America,  but  particularly  to  the  table-lands  of  Olancho,  where 
it  is  found  growing  in  rich  luxuriance  amid  the  numberless 
bright-leaved  trees  forming  the  scenery  of  the  department.  I 
was  afterward  shown  numbers  of  them  on  the  road  between 
Lepaguare  and  Galeras,  and  also  in  the  vicinity  of  Catacamas. 
Most  of  these,  however,  had  been  tapped,  and  thus  impaired. 
Their  average  height  is  about  thirty  feet,  but  General  Zelaya 
states  that  in  the  mountains,  about  twenty  miles  to  the  north- 
ward of  Jutecalpa,  they  are  found  from  thirty  to  eighty  feet 
high,  and  about  three  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base.  The  trunk 
is  smooth,  and  naked  of  branches  for  twenty  feet  above  the 
ground,  when  they  shoot  out  and  upward,  much  like  those  of 
the  northern  pine,  forming  a cone  of  living  emerald. 

The  leaves  have  seven  points,  are  deeply  furrowed,  and  hang 
upon  delicate  slender  stems.  The  blossom  puts  forth  early  in 
February,  and  at  that  time  the  tree  stands  peerless  amid  the 
surrounding  foliage.  The  blossoms  have  long,  pointed  pink 
spears  shooting  from  the  tops  of  the  branches,  and  shortly  burst 
into  rich  globular  flowers.  The  upper  face  of  the  leaf  is  glu- 
tinous and  shiny,  in  shape  not  unlike  the  silver-leafed  maple. 
The  wood  is  hard,  and,  when  worked,  displays  a fine  variegated 
grain,  capable  of  a high  polish,  but  seldom  cut  or  used  for  any 
purpose  in  this  land  of  precious  dye-woods,  timber,  and  medici- 
nal plants. 

The  owners  of  cattle  estates  send  their  mayor-domos  into  the 
woods  to  collect  the  gum  which  is  found  exuding  from  the  pores 
of  the  tree,  and  often  collecting,  like  that  of  the  peach,  in  some 
knot  or  bruise  along  its  smooth  surface.  The  gum  trickles 
from  the  incision  in  transparent  tears  down  the  conduits  made 
by  the  natives,  until,  from  a spout  inserted  in  some  convenient 
place,  a pint  or  more  is  collected.  By  climbing  to  the  lower 
branches  a purer  quality  is  said  to  be  obtained. 

A rim  of  plantain  leaves,  bound  tightly  around  the  trunk  and 
left  for  several  days,  is  found  filled  with  the  precious  distilla- 
tion. I afterward  went  with  Julio,  the  mayor-domo  of  Lepa- 

X 


322 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


guare,  about  two  leagues  to  one  of  these  trees,  where  he  procured 
from  the  leafy  troughs  at  least  a pint.  The  trunk  of  the  liq- 
uid amber-tree  is  clammy  to  the  touch,  so  that  numerous  living 
bees,  attracted  by  the  sweet,  glutinous  substance  sweating  from 
the  pores,  are  found  sticking  helplessly  to  the  bark.  The  gum, 
when  bottled,  becomes  of  the  consistency  of  sirup.  In  the  ca- 
ballaria  of  Don  Francisco  Zelaya  there  were  at  least  two  gal- 
lons used  for  no  other  purpose  than  to  heal  the  wounds  of 
horses,  mules,  and  cattle.  While  there,  I saw  a drove  of  mares 
and  colts  corrected,  some  of  them  having  been  bitten  by  bats 
or  torn  by  wild  beasts.  The  wounds  were  first  cleansed  with 
a decoction  of  some  healing  plant  gathered  by  one  of  the  boys, 
and  afterward  smeared  with  liquid  amber.  I was  assured  that 
it  never  failed  to  effect  a speedy  cure  for  flesh-wounds  in  horses, 
and  that  in  the  mountains,  when  the  mahogany-cutters  or  hunt- 
ers wounded  themselves,  they  applied  at  once  to  this  tree  for 
remedios.  It  is  sometimes  mixed  into  a stiff  gum  with  other 
substances,  and  chewed  by  the  Indians  as  a preservative  of  the 
teeth.  I saw  no  liquid  amber  except  in  Olancho,  and,  inquir- 
ing in  other  parts  of  Central  America,  heard  that  section  of  the 
country  designated  as  particularly  abounding  with  it. 

From  the  day  of  our  arrival  the  population  of  Jutecalpa  had 
been  steadily  augmenting.  All  was  gayety  and  life,  preparing 
for  the  long-contemplated  funcion.  The  authorities  met,  and 
licensed  the  inhabitants  to  fire  guns  and  bombas ; the  little  gar- 
rison at  the  cabilda,  arrayed  in  its  best,  paraded  the  streets,  and 
at  intervals  awoke  the  echoes  with  their  field-piece,  an  old,  rick- 
ety affair  of  Spanish  make,  and  with  a bore  about  the  size  of  a 
common  ducking-gun.  In  Central  America  they  estimate  can- 
non by  the  racket  they  can  make.  At  the  house  of  Dona  Te- 
resa, across  the  road,  a bevy  of  senoritas  had  collected.  The 
interior,  as  an  occasional  glance  from  my  window  assured  me, 
was  gay  with  colored  prints,  ribbons,  and  shawls.  People  were 
crowding  in  from  all  quarters.  Arrivals  daily  occurred  from 
points  fifty  miles  distant.  The  Plaza  de  Toros  was  receiving 
the  finishing  touch  from  the  workmen,  who  had  been  for  several 
Jays  dragging  into  town,  with  ox  and  mule  teams,  loads  of 
branches  and  logs  to  complete  the  inclosure.  Several  musicians, 
intended  to  officiate  during  the  week's  festivities,  had  called  on 


PREPARING  FOR  THE  FUNCION. 


323 


Senor  Garay  for  the  customary  contribution ; the  great  men  of 
the  town  had  been  in  solemn  conclave  at  our  house  with  the 
padres,  regarding  the  expense  of  decorating  the  church  in  a man- 
ner befitting  this  important  occasion ; the  bulls  (always  gratui- 
tously supplied  by  Senor  Garay)  were  on  their  way  from  the 
haciendas ; premonitory  rockets  and  squibs  sputtered  and  ex- 
ploded around  the  cabilda , and  the  usually  dull,  sleepy  town  of 
Jutecalpa  presented  a wonderful  scene  of  bustle  and  excitement. 

During  all  this  fuss,  arrayed  in  his  holiday  garb,  his  lame  leg 
supported  by  cushions,  and  his  hammock  arranged  in  such  a 
way  that,  by  pulling  a string  suspended  from  the  roof,  he  could 
swing  himself  to  and  fro,  the  old  gentleman  kept  open  house, 
and  distributed  coin  and  advice  to  the  many  who  daily  applied 
to  him.  At  one  time  a sneaking  fellow  would  slip  into  the  room, 
hat  in  hand,  and,  seating  himself  respectfully  on  a trunk,  remain 
speechless,  with  his  eyes  fixed  lackadaisically  on  the  floor. 
When  Senor  Garay  had  completed  his  business  with  a previous 
comer,  he  would  glance  kindly  toward  the  new  applicant,  light  a 
fresh  cigarro,  and  say, 

“ Ahora , amigo , gue  tienes  f” 

At  this  the  fellow  (now  sure  of  success)  would  raise  his  eyes, 
and  reply  perhaps  to  the  effect  that  the  ceaseless  toil  to  which, 
in  supporting  a blind  mother  or  two  young  sisters,  he  was 
bound,  together  with  the  ravages  of  the  locusts,  had  made  it 
impossible  for  him  to  appropriate  a medio  for  the  celebration  of 
the  holiday  for  the  glory  of  God,  and,  after  a long  story,  would 
again  cast  down  his  eyes  and  remain  silent.  Upon  this,  the  old 
man  would  strike  with  his  cane  upon  the  floor,  summoning  an 
Indian  boy,  who  proceeded  to  open  an  antiquated  oaken  chest, 
and  draw  therefrom  a box  of  copper  coin.  These  he  would 
carefully  count  over,  and  hand  a liberal  share  to  the  petitioner, 
with  the  remark,  ‘ ‘ Vocmos  ! sin  duda  sois  buen  muchacho  /” 
while,  as  he  presented  the  gift,  he  would  add,  with  a parental 
air  finely  in  keeping  with  his  patriarchal  mien,  “ Acuerdate, 
Antonio , gue  un  peso  in  el  bolsillo  es  el  mejor  amigo  en  el 
mundo .”  (Remember,  Antonio,  that  a dollar  in  your  pocket 
is  the  best  friend  in  the  world.) 

The  fellow,  who,  likely  as  not,  is  some  ragamuffin  of  a loafer, 
calls  on  God  to  shower  blessings  on  his  venerable  benefactor, 


324 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


and  hastens  to  the  Plaza,  where  his  copper  coin  quickly  melts 
away  at  the  monte  table. 

One  of  the  favorite  amusements  of  Senor  Garay,  and  which 
he  shared  with  the  whole  population  of  Olancho,  was  bull-fight- 
ing, a pastime  in  which,  in  his  younger  days,  he  had  not  dis- 
dained to  take  part,  but  now  contented  himself  with  witnessing 
the  sports  from  a raised  staging,  erected  (as  regularly  as  the 
fiesta  re-occurred)  expressly  for  him  outside  the  great  inclosure, 
and  commanding  a view  of  the  arena.  Knowing  this  weakness, 
the  bull-fighters  always  laid  the  rich  Don  Francisco  under  heavy 
contributions.  He  could  never  refuse  the  demands  of  his  pets, 
whom  he  regarded  as  dedicating  their  lives  to  the  amusement 
of  the  public,  and  keeping  up  the  holy  celebration  of  the  Fun- 
cion  de  la  Virgen. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

The  Streets. — A Visit  to  the  Church. — Scene  in  the  Plaza. — Feather  Robes. — 
Population  of  Jutecalpa. — Merry  Spectacle. — The  Bolero  and  Fandango. — 
Olancho  Poetry. — A Feu  de  Joie. — Dinner  with  the  Padre. — Arrival  of  Vis- 
itors.— Orange  Marmalade. — Tamarind  Ambrosia. — First  Day  of  the  Funcion. 
— How  the  Girls  and  Gallants  ride. — Corraling  the  Bulls. — A crazy  Race. — 
Church  Ceremonies. — Processions. — Bull-fighting. — Riding  a horned  Steed. — 
A golden  Chispa.- — -Pure  Air. — Gold  and  Silver  Bells. — A social  Party. — ‘ ‘ Poco 
a poco.” — Dona  Ysabel. — Buying  Gold  Dust. — The  Valley  of  Concepcion. — 
More  “Rainbow  Scenery.” — Racing  with  a Priest. — Site  for  an  American  Town. 

The  streets  of  Jutecalpa,  like  those  of  all  Spanish  American 
towns,  are  narrow,  irregularly  paved,  and,  owing  to  the  glare  of 
the  eternal  whitewashed  walls,  hot,  and  generally  emitting  any 
thing  but  fragrant  odors.  The  houses  are  mostly  of  but  one 
story,  and  the  interiors  often  unpaved,  leaving  the  bare  earth  for 
a floor.  The  roofs  are  all  tiled,  which,  at  a short  distance, 
gives  an  air  of  regularity  to  the  town,  quickly  disappearing  as 
you  enter.  From  the  eaves  of  these  the  people  had  been  for 
several  days  suspending  branches  and  leaves  of  the  palm  and 
cedar,  while  across  the  principal  streets,  from  roof  to  roof,  were 
extended  cords  made  of  some  tough  vine  of  the  country,  to  which 
were  affixed  bunches  of  a resinous  wood,  to  serve  for  torches  in 
the  approaching  illumination.  The  church  was  quite  covered 
with  these  festive  decorations,  and  the  portals  of  the  edifice 


DECORATING  THE  CHURCH. 


325 


shrouded  with  pine  and  cedar  branches.  The  interiors  of  houses 
were  similarly  adorned,  and  the  appearance  of  the  town  remind- 
ed me  somewhat  of  the  church-dressing  at  Christmas  time  in  the 
North. 

By  the  invitation  of  Padre  Buenaventura,  I went  to  witness 
the  preparations  which  were  being  made  by  the  women  of  the 
town,  into  whose  hands  the  church  had  been  surrendered.  The 
altar  was  surrounded  and  covered  with  tallow  candles  placed  in 
small  wooden  holders.  These  unctuous  illuminators  were  also 
liberally  displayed  about  the  walls  in  niches,  in  front  of  tinseled 
figures  of  saints,  and  before  execrable  daubs  of  paintings,  with 
which  the  church  was  adorned.  The  gallery  was  also  stuck 
around  with  candles.  The  building  is  lined  inside  with  nicely- 
planed  cedar  boards,  for  the  working  of  which  carpenters  were 
imported  by  the  way  of  Truxillo  from  Jamaica.  Altogether  it 
is  a very  creditable  building,  and  was  ten  years  in  process  of 
construction. 

As  we  entered,  we  found  perhaps  two  dozen  women  moving 
silently,  with  bare  feet,  over  the  tiled  pavement,  and  under  their 
hands  the  place  had  already  assumed  an  imposing  appearance. 
The  padre  said  there  would  be  a partial  illumination  on  that 
evening,  when  some  important  ceremony  would  be  performed. 
The  women  crossed  themselves  fervently  as  they  passed  the 
altar,  now  and  then  kneeling  and  repeating,  with  the  volubility 
of  parrots,  a selection  from  the  Missal,  or  bending  reverentially 
toward  the  figure  of  the  Virgin,  whose  gaudy  raiment  and  great, 
bead-like  eyes  made  her  decidedly  the  lion — or  lioness — of  the 
occasion.  She  reminded  me  more  of  the  figures  of  Mandarins, 
with  the  peculiar  bobbing  heads,  than  any  thing  else  I could 
compare  her  to.  Of  course,  I remained  uncovered,  and  made 
my  best  bow  to  her  ladyship. 

Toward  night  the  whole  town  was  in  an  uproar.  Rockets 
and  bonfires  disputed  possession  of  the  air,  and  around  the 
Plaza  one  might  see  to  read  as  the  flames  darted  here  and 
there,  and  sent  their  light  against  the  church  walls.  Every 
body  who  passed  the  sacred  edifice  raised  his  hat,  and  some 
kneeled  when  opposite  the  doors.  Booths  and  gambling-tables 
were  erected,  as  in  the  United  States  on  public  days.  At  the 
first  were  sold  chichi,  tiste,  chocolate,  aguardiente  punch,  eggs. 


326 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


sugar-candy,  cakes,  fire- works,  fruit,  and  pictures  of  the  Virgin  ; 
at  the  gambling-stalls  stood  crowds  of  well-formed,  athletic  va- 
queros,  mahogany-cutters,  sarsaparilla-gatherers,  deer-hunters, 
and  muleteers,  each  attended  with  his  muchacha,  gayly  dressed 
for  the  occasion,  and  joining  in  the  hearty  laugh  or  exclamation 
of  disappointment.  Among  them  moved  the  more  silent  but 
equally  vivacious  and  amiable  Indians,  from  the  settlements  of 
las  Indijenas  to  the  eastward.  Some  had  come  even  from  La 
Conquista,  San  Estevan,  and  Dulcenombre,  and  there  were  nu- 
merous handsomely-dressed,  fine-looking  fellows  from  the  In- 
dian head-quarters  of  Olancho,  Catacamas.  Among  them  might 
be  seen  specimens  of  the  beautiful  art  apparently  confined  to 
the  American  Indian  races,  feather-robe-making.  Some  of  these 
were  made  with  rare  skill,  evincing  a taste  in  the  disposal  and 
contrasting  of  colors  which  might  have  been  in  vain  attempted 
by  more  cultivated  artists. 

The  gaudiest  plumed  denizens  of  the  tropical  forest  are  laid 
under  contribution  for  these  robes.  One  of  the  Indians,  a de- 
scendant, I believe,  of  the  Xicaque  tribe,  described  by  Juarros, 
promised  me  a description  of  the  method  of  making  them  ; but 
my  new  acquaintance,  whom,  in  virtue  of  his  promise,  I had  sup- 
plied with  several  handfuls  of  copper  coin  to  “buck  at  monte 
remained  partially  demented  under  the  effect  of  a too  frequent 
application  to  the  aguardiente  bottle,  and  at  the  close  of  the 
funcion  disappeared  suddenly  with  his  companions.  The  robe 
which  I bought  of  the  fellow  was  subsequently  lost  from  my 
pack-saddle. 

It  was  now  that  I began  to  realize  the  extent  of  Olancho’s 
population,  and  its  capabilities  of  defense.  Hundreds  of  horse- 
men moved  about  the  square,  displaying  an  equestrian  grace 
which,  in  the  cavalry  charge,  would  make  them  a worthy  an- 
tagonist for  any  mounted  troops  I have  seen  in  Spanish  Amer- 
ica. The  streets  of  the  town  were  thronged.  It  is  this  facility 
with  which  the  people  of  the  neighboring  villages  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, Jutequile,  Mamaisaca,  Los  Dorillas,  San  Nicolas,  Con- 
cepcion, and  El  Plomo  flock  into  the  town,  that  has  given  rise 
to  the  error  respecting  the  population  of  Jutecalpa.  The  towns 
of  Manto,  Silca,  Culmi,  Yocon,  Talgua,  Danli,  Gualaca,  and 
others,  also  send  large  deputations  to  Jutecalpa  during  times  of 


JUTECALPA  RAMPANT. 


327 


public  amusement ; these,  with  the  Indians  from  the  Lower 
Gayape,  swell  the  population  to  near  three  times  its  usual  num- 
ber. The  natives  of  distant  parts  of  Honduras  have  confound- 
ed its  inhabitants  with  those  of  the  adjacent  villages.  We  es- 
timated above  twelve  thousand  souls  in  Jutecalpa  during  the 
funcion. 

The  streets  offered  one  of  the  gayest  spectacles  imaginable, 
heightened  greatly  by  the  taste  of  the  women  at  such  times  for 
bright  colors,  in  which  I found  they  differed  from  those  of  Nic- 
aragua. Ribbons  and  flashy  shawls  flouted  the  breeze  in  every 
direction.  Merry  voices  blended  with  the  tinkling  of  guitars, 
the  crowd  swaying  to  and  fro  among  horses,  and  mules,  and 
processions,  now  laughing  with  careless  mirth,  or  mingling  the 
noisy  talk  with  the  nasal  voice  of  the  vocalist,  and  forming  in 
little  circles  to  witness  the  fandango  or  bolero , in  which  fine 
figures  and  spirited  attitudes  atoned  for  the  lack  of  the  graces 
of  cultivation. 

By  ten  o’clock  the  fun  grew  “ fast  and  furious.”  The  festiv- 
ities are  a mixture  of  sport  and  religion,  in  which  the  partici- 
pants are  constantly  reminded  of  the  supremacy  of  the  Church 
by  the  dip  of  bells  calling  to  holy  exercise,  the  passing  of  pro- 
cessions, and  the  chanting  of  priests.  It  was  a wise  thought, 
that  of  the  old  padres,  who,  in  establishing  the  Catholic  faith  in 
these  countries,  made  every  holiday  to  tally  with  some  religious 
phase,  so  that  even  in  the  merriest  moments  the  rites  of  Cathol- 
icism should  be  present  and  uppermost. 

During  the  day  a written  circular  was  left  at  Senor  Garay’s 
door,  of  which  the  following  is  a copy,  authorizing  the  people  to 
“let  themselves  loose”  generally,  and  fire  muskets,  pistols,  or 
rockets  at  their  pleasure. 

“ Al  Sr.  Don  Francisco  Garay. 

“Decima, 

Deseando  que  hay  a alegria, 

Al  principiar  la  funcion, 

Hoy  el  gremio  de  la  Union, 

Viene  a pedirle  a porfia. 

Que  al  punto  de  medio  dia 
En  vuestra  casa  estareis 
Y que  de  alii  tirareis 
La  bomba,  fusil,  6 caete. 

Que  pago  tendra  cl  juguetc 


328 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


De  Maria  no  dudeis 

Pues,  el  Gremio  de  la  Union — 

Lo  festeja  con  porfia.” 

In  obedience  to  this  mandate,  we  had  maintained  a contin- 
uous volley  from  pistols,  rifle,  and  muskets  until  dark.  Don 
Francisco,  whose  pride  in  his  visitors  increased  proportionally  to 
the  row  they  created  around  his  door,  kept  two  Indian  boys 
tearing  up  paper  for  wads,  and  in  other  ways  attending  to  our 
wants.  We  were  yet  banging  away  when  my  good  friend  Pa- 
dre Buenaventura  came  up,  and,  taking  my  arm,  desired  me  to 
accompany  him  in  a tramp  about  town  u para  ver  a los  Hones.'1' 

This  evening  is  called  the  Vespers  of  the  Virgin.  We  strolled 
among  the  crowd,  exchanging  salutations,  and  my  own  import- 
ance increased  considerably  by  intimacy  with  the  padre.  He 
was  every  where  received  with  demonstrations  of  respect  and 
affection.  But  the  padre  led  me  away  toward  the  western  part 
of  the  town,  where  we  entered  a snug  little  house,  and  showed 
me  two  of  his  children!  “Ah!  Padre  Buenaventura,”  said  I, 
“ I thought  the  Catholic  clergy  never  married.” 

“ Well,  hijo,  we  do  not,”  he  replied,  carelessly,  and,  changing 
the  conversation,  introduced  me  to  an  olive-hued  girl,  whose 
likeness  to  the  children  showed  her  to  be  the  mother.  “Now,” 
said  the  padre,  “ I shall  show  you  how  I live.  This  is  not  my 
house,  but  my  family  resides  here.” 

The  table  was  already  spread,  and  we  sat  down  to  a repast 
of  broiled  chicken,  wild  honey,  Indian  bread,  coffee,  and  cream. 
From  the  day  of  my  arrival  in  Honduras  I had  enjoyed  the  ap- 
petite of  a tiger.  Such  cheer  as  that  of  the  padre  was  not  long 
disappearing.  After  this  he  uncorked  a bottle,  and  poured  out 
some  aguardiente,  of  which  I judged  he  had  already  ascertained 
the  quality.  From  here  we  proceeded  to  the  Plaza , and  until 
nearly  midnight  wandered  among  the  swarthy  groups,  their  faces 
lit  up  by  the  flames  of  bombas  and  bonfires. 

On  the  following  day  the  daughter  of  Senor  Garay  arrived 
from  Tegucigalpa,  and  great  were  the  rejoicings  in  the  house. 
A drove  of  sheep  was  brought  to  the  patio  from  the  hacienda 
of  Concepcion , and  half  a dozen  selected  by  the  old  man  him- 
self for  the  week’s  feasting.  A fine  heifer,  which  had  been  fat- 
tening for  the  occasion,  was  slaughtered,  pastry  made,  and  the 


A MODEL  ENTERTAINER. 


329 


festivities,  if  possible,  increased  thenceforth.  Like  most  of  the 
viejos  of  Olancho,  my  host  was  an  epicure.  Varieties  of  little 
stews  and  savory  messes  were  always  placed  before  him  at  table, 
which  he  usually  desired  me  to  assist  in  dispatching. 

He  also  possessed  the  art,  from  long  practice,  of  concocting 
certain  delicious  drinks.  Among  these  was  one  to  which  I in- 
variably paid  my  respects.  It  was  made  from  tamarinds,  and 
usually  served  about  noon  from  earthen  jars,  wrapped  in  several 
thick  swaths  of  flannel,  and  placed  in  the  draft  as  a cooling 
process.  The  preparation  of  this  beverage  was  simple  enough. 
From  a cask  of  the  fruit,  which  seemed  to  have  been  crushed  to 
a pulp  and  liberally  mixed  with  the  coarse  sirup  of  the  country, 
a quantity  of  thick  liquor  was  drawn  off,  in  a partly  fermented 
state,  and  diluted  to  a drinking  consistency,  which,  when  settled, 
was  turned  into  jars.  To  this  was  added  powdered  cinnamon, 
allspice,  or  some  fragrant  herb  (gathered  in  the  neighboring  hills), 
to  suit  the  taste.  The  liquor,  without  the  spices,  is  often  used 
during  and  after  fevers. 

Senor  Garay  was  also  very  fond  of  a marmalade  of  orange, 
which  he  had  served  up  in  small  platters  every  evening  before 
bedtime.  The  preparation  contained  a slight  infusion  of  va- 
nilla, and  some  other  aromatic  substance  possessing  narcotic- 
properties,  for  which  reason,  doubtless,  the  old  gentleman  ate  it 
himself,  and  hospitably  desired  his  guests  might  sleep  soundly 
during  the  night. 

Several  beautiful  tamarindos , conspicuous  for  their  spread 
and  their  pale-green  leaves,  straight  trunks,  and  irregular  branch- 
es, grow  in  the  streets  and  gardens  of  Jutecalpa.  The  fruit 
contains  from  four  to  seven  seeds ; the  pods,  clustering  luxuri- 
antly among  the  leaves,  appear  in  November,  and  by  January 
are  ready  for  gathering. 

This  was  the  first  day  of  the  funcion.  At  early  dawn  wo 
received  notice  that  General  Zelaya,  with  his  family  and  broth- 
ers, would  be  in  town  before  night.  Don  Toribio,  the  second 
son  of  Don  Chico,  arrived  shortly  after,  with  a number  of  wom- 
en to  put  the  house  in  order.  L and  I mounted  and  rode 

out  toward  Mamaisaca  to  meet  the  approaching  cavalcade.  Ten 
miles  out  of  town  we  encountered  them,  but,  to  my  regret,  with- 
out the  general.  The  senora  was  still  grievously  ill,  and  he 


330 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


dared  not  leave  the  house  during  her  critical  position.  I,  how- 
ever, received  a flattering  letter  from  the  old  gentleman,  promis- 
ing me  to  be  in  town  during  the  funcion. 

We  returned  with  the  family,  and  arrived  about  noon  at  a 
hard  gallop.  The  girls  rode  side-saddles  made  in  Guatemala. 
The  two  daughters  of  Don  Santiago,  already  referred  to,  remind- 
ed me  of  the  bouncing  Green  Mountain  lasses,  generally  re- 
ceived as  the  symbol  of  ruddy  health  and  good-nature.  They 
were  respectively  seventeen  and  nineteen  years  of  age,  and  as 
full  of  life  and  fun  as  kittens.  Such  riding  as  theirs ! After 
witnessing  it,  my  chief  desire  was  to  get  out  of  the  way,  to  con- 
ceal my  own  gawky  equestrianism,  although,  as  I had  flattered 
myself,  it  was  a little  tinged  with  the  style  of  the  ranchero  of 
California.  Since  childhood  they  had  lived  among  horses,  and 
every  day  had  scurried  over  the  grassy  plains,  until  to  ride  had 
become  a second  nature.  They  were  attended  by  half  a dozen 
country  gallants  from  the  neighboring  haciendas,  some  of  whom 
regarded  my  attentions  to  their  loves  with  lowering  brows.  But, 
independent  of  all  other  considerations,  had  I wished  to  prove 
any  superior  claim,  they  needed  only  to  touch  with  the  spur  the 
spirited  animals  they  bestrode,  and  a few  prances  would  have 
forever  sealed  my  fate  as  a rival.  To  be  a “ buen  jinete”  has 
more  advantages  than  one  in  Olancho ! 

On  re-entering  the  town  we  found  a number  of  horsemen 
dashing  up  and  down  the  streets,  apparently  in  the  greatest  ex- 
citement about  something,  the  purport  of  which  we  hastened  to 
learn.  Don  Toribio  soon  ascertained  that  a drove  of  bulls  from 
one  of  Senor  Garay’s  haciendas  had  arrived  within  a mile  of  the 
town,  and  that,  in  accordance  with  the  immemorial  custom,  ev- 
ery mounted  man  in  the  city  was  about  starting  to  form  a tri- 
umphal procession,  and  drive  the  beasts  into  the  corral  prepared 
for  their  reception  in  the  Plaza.  They  had  only  awaited  our 
return  to  start. 

At  the  word,  not  less  than  three  hundred  men  spurred  out  of 
the  eastern  end  of  the  town,  and  over  a boundless  plain  tender- 
ly carpeted  with  flowers  and  grass,  and  interspersed  with  open 
copses  and  groves  of  waving  trees.  Such  a mad  scamper,  hel- 
ter-skelter, with  the  exultant  '■'■Hoo-pah  /”  issuing  from  a hund- 
red throats  ; some  mounted  on  half-broken  horses  from  the 


CORRALING  THE  BULLS. 


331 


plains,  with  the  stare  of  the  wild  beast  yet  shooting  from  their 
eyes ; others  dashing  off  at  a tangent  from  the  main  body,  and 
trusting  to  the  superior  fleetness  of  their  animals,  describing  a 
long  circle,  and  again  joining  the  onward  moving  mass ; here  a 
mere  boy  sitting  his  leaping  steed  like  a monkey ; there  a bare- 
legged Indian  straddled  an  equally  untamed  horse,  without  sad- 
dle or  bridle,  but  a strong  sash  passed  around  the  thighs  and 
under  the  horse’s  belly,  and  a contrivance  like  a head-stall  (el 
jaquema ) with  which  to  guide  him.  The  ground  fairly  trem- 
bled beneath  the  beating  of  hoofs. 

In  a few  minutes  we  reined  in  at  the  base  of  a gentle  hill, 
where  the  noise  of  many  voices  and  the  bellowing  of  cattle  in- 
dicated the  object  of  our  expedition.  Without  waiting  to  con- 
cert any  plan  of  action,  the  whole  body,  now  half  crazy  with 
excitement,  plunged  into  the  trees,  from  which  very  shortly  is- 
sued a number  of  bulls  wild  from  the  cattle-plains,  and  rendered 
doubly  savage  by  the  goading  and  other  indignities  they  had 
experienced  on  the  road.  Heads  down  and  tail  in  air,  they 
leaped  away  in  an  opposite  direction  from  the  town,  and  after 
them  spurred  the  crowd,  filling  the  ah*  with  shouts  and  laughter. 

Occasionally  one  of  the  bulls  would  charge  at  their  pursuers, 
when  a general  stampede  succeeded  to  get  out  of  reach.  Grad- 
ually the  chase  was  headed  toward  Jutecalpa,  and  after  half  an 
hour’s  run,  with  numerous  deviations  to  intercept  bolting  mem- 
bers, the  monarchs  of  the  herd  were  driven  into  the  town,  where 
thousands  hastened  out  on  foot  to  view  them  from  places  of  se- 
curity. Here  Sehor  Garay,  mounted  on  a gentle,  easy-paced 
mule,  joined  the  cavalcade,  and  assisted  in  the  ceremony  of  cor- 
raling  the  bulls,  his  part  consisting  in  shouting  with  the  lungs 
of  a line-of-battle  ship’s  boatswain,  and  responding  with  beam- 
ing smiles  to  the  salutations  of  all.  He  was  universally  known, 
and  had  claimed  the  monopoly  of  supplying  the  bulls  for  the 
funciones  for  half  a century,  as  his  ancestors  had  done  before 
him  by  hereditary  right. 

By  this  time  the  Church  ceremonies  had  commenced,  and  all 
who  could  not  get  inside  stood  reverentially  in  the  Plaza , with 
heads  uncovered,  responding  fervently,  and  crossing  themselves 
at  intervals.  Don  Toribio  smuggled  us  in  through  a side  en- 
trance, whence  we  ascended  into  the  choir.  All  light  of  day  had 


332 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


been  excluded  from  the  building,  and  a thousand  candles  shed  a 
pale  light  upon  the  tinsel  and  gilt  around  the  altar.  These  peo- 
ple seemed  to  me  less  priest-ridden  than  any  other  Central 
Americans  I had  seen — faithful  observers  of  the  ceremonies,  but 
not  slaves  to  the  behests  of  the  Church. 

The  women,  neatly  clad  in  shawls  of  bright  colors,  kneeled 
face  to  the  altar,  murmuring  sotto  voce , their  responses  producing 
the  peculiar  humming  heard  in  crowded  assemblages.  The  ser- 
mon was  delivered  by  the  talented  young  Padre  Cubas,  and  was 
attentively  listened  to  by  all  classes.  Although  Olancho  is  a 
democratic  aristocracy,  all  social  divisions  are  forgotten  at  the 
church  door,  and  rich  and  poor  kneel  side  by  side. 

The  frankincense  used  in  the  censers  of  the  Church  is  the  pro- 
duct of  a small  tree  growing  in  the  savannas  of  Olancho,  and 
generally  found  near  the  gum  Arabic  bush.  It  is  gathered  in 
rough,  pale-yellow  pieces,  resembling  parched  corn,  and  exposed 
for  sale  in  Tegucigalpa  and  Jutecalpa.  Its  perfume  is  very 
grateful,  and  is  used  as  a fumigator  in  sick-rooms  in  the  larger 
Central  American  cities.  The  estoraque , or  resin  of  the  Styrax 
officinalis,  is  also  burnt  in  the  churches.  Several  kinds  of  this 
are  found  in  Olancho.  They  are  known  under  the  general  name 
of  incienso.  This  church  has  but  one  article  of  value,  consist- 
ing of  a massive  golden  chain,  with  jeweled  ornaments  attached, 
said  to  have  been  presented  by  the  robber  Quijano  on  his  death- 
bed, and  in  consideration  of  which  prayers  are  ever  after  said 
for  his  soul. 

The  services  over,  the  rest  of  the  day  was  devoted  to  pleasure 
and  merry-making.  Passing  into  the  Plaza,  I found  myself  in 
company  with  twenty  mounted  gentlemen,  some  of  them  sons 
of  rich  hacendados.  The  bull-fighting  was  not  to  take  place 
until  the  following  day;  so,  joining  them,  we  rode  about  the  lit- 
tle town,  my  companions,  who  seldom  visited  Jutecalpa,  improv- 
ing their  time  to  see  all  the  sport  possible.  Races  were  run,  the 
competitors  joining  hands,  and  riding  at  top  speed,  side  by  side, 
four  and  six  abreast.  A procession  of  masks  set  the  town  in  a 
roar  with  their  local  jests,  and  our  party  of  roysterers  exchanged 
smart  jokes  with  every  pretty  face  they  met.  The  women  got 
up  a procession,  carrying  the  Virgin,  dressed  in  the  exaggerated 
finery  of  a country  belle,  for  which  service  they  expected  to  re- 


THE  BULL-FIGHT. 


333 


ceive  her  special  aid  and  assistance  on  future  occasions  of  diffi- 
culty. 

As  darkness  approached,  the  scene  of  the  previous  night  was 
renewed,  but  with  treble  enthusiasm.  An  illuminated  transpa- 
rency, representing  a full-sized  bull,  was  borne  through  the 
streets,  accompanied  by  wind  and  string  instruments  and  a 
crowd  of  people.  Later,  his  bullship  was  placed  over  one  of  the 
numerous  bonfires,  where  he  disappeared  in  a whirl  of  smoke 

On  the  following  day, 
the  rattle  of  the  drum  and 
noise  of  horsemen  awoke 
us  at  an  early  hour.  At 
ten  o’clock  the  first  bull 
was  let  into  the  Plaza,  in 
which  were  two  picadores, 
and  an  equal  number  of 
mounted  men  with  lances. 
All  Jutecalpa  crowded  to- 
ward the  square.  The  bal- 
cony on  the  second  story  of 
Senor  Gardela’s  house  was 
filled  with  showily-dressed 
ladies  of  the  best  families, 
and  the  veranda  below  oc- 
cupied by  the  not  less 
flaunting  mujeres  del  pais.  The  heavy  oak-barred  fence  con- 
structed for  the  occasion  was  thick  with  people,  perched  in 
every  conceivable  place  whence  a fair  view  might  be  obtained 
of  the  sports. 

The  bulls  had  been  kept  blindfolded  and  without  food  since 
the  previous  day,  and  were  now  roaring  with  rage.  The  first 
one,  having  his  blindfold  removed,  and  no  longer  imprisoned  by 
the  bars,  ran  quickly  out,  and  trotted  with  a lordly,  defiant  air 
about  the  Plaza.  The  bull-fighters  stood  on  their  guard.  Sud- 
denly he  made  a quick  run  at  the  nearest  man,  who  dodged  him, 
and  made  for  a triangle  of  heavy  posts  in  the  centre  of  the  in- 
closure ; but,  before  he  could  reach  them,  his  pursuer  had  knock- 
ed him  heavily  to  the  earth.  The  infuriated  creature  inserted 


BULL-FIGHT  IN  JUTECALPA. 


334 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


his  horns  beneath  his  body,  balanced  him  a moment,  and  sent 
him  like  a rocket  into  the  air.  The  other  combatants  rushed  in 
and  drew  off  the  attention  of  the  animal  while  the  wounded  man 
was  borne  away.  Several  ribs  were  broken,  and  an  arm,  besides 
internal  injuries,  and  he  died  next  day. 

This  unfortunate  commencement  threw  a chill  over  the  sports 
for  a while,  but  the  circumstance  was  soon  forgotten,  and  the 
usual  tormenting  of  the  animals  continued.  The  entertainment 
of  bull-fighting,  unless  conducted  on  the  scale  of  the  great  ex- 
hibitions at  Cadiz  and  Madrid,  soon  cloys  on  the  taste  of  the 
stranger.  The  ceremony  of  saddling  and  riding  the  bull  exhib- 
its a temerity  and  reckless  courage  one  is  quite  unprepared  for. 
A horseman  throws  his  lazo  over  the  horns  of  the  bull,  and, 
tossing  the  end  to  the  crowd  through  the  bars,  the  animal  is 
dragged,  bellowing  and  struggling,  to  the  fence,  where  his  head 
is  held  firmly  down  while  a strong  saddle  or  albardo  is  lashed 
to  his  back ; the  stirrups  are  shortened,  and  into  this  gets  some 
hair-brained  vaquero  without  a moment’s  hesitation.  The  noose 
is  detached,  and  away  springs  the  mad  beast,  rearing,  plunging, 
and  moaning  with  rage.  Contortions  and  leaps  are  powerless 
to  dislodge  the  imp  astride  his  back,  whose  life  depends  upon 
his  agility  and  coolness.  He  excites  the  applause  of  the  spec- 
tators by  stretching  himself  at  length  on  the  bull’s  back,  or  beat- 
ing him  over  the  head  and  horns  with  a small  club  carried  for 
the  purpose.  When  weary  of  the  sport,  the  horned  steed  is 
dragged  as  before  to  the  fence,  and  the  boy  dismounting,  some 
other  takes  his  place,  or  the  beast  is  attacked  after  the  usual 
method  of  the  corrida  de  toros. 

At  night  the  air  was  ablaze  with  rockets,  squibs,  and  serpents. 
For  seven  days  the  festivities  were  continued ; horse-racing, 
processions,  and  feasting  by  day,  and  dancing  and  social  parties 
by  night.  My  boys,  Victor  and  Roberto,  were  wild  with  delight 
during  this  time.  In  sober-sided  Tegucigalpa  they  had  never 
seen  any  thing  equaling  the  pell-mell,  off-hand  style  of  Jutecal- 
pa.  They  would  both  have  quickly  sacrificed  their  wages  to  the 
fascinations  of  monte  had  I been  willing  to  advance  the  money. 
On  my  refusal,  the  scamps  resorted  to  trickery,  and  applied  to  me 
for  money  to  buy  medicine.  I soon  after  saw  my  gentlemen 
hazarding  their  copper  coin  at  the  resistless  table.  Spaniards 


GAMBLING  WITH  NUGGETS.  335 

and  their  descendants  are  born  gamblers.  They  inherit  the 
passion  from  the  adventurous  spirit  of  the  old  hidalgos. 

While  watching  the  excited  faces  of  the  players  during  the 
Jiesta,  I observed  one  of  the  crowd  to  place  a bit  of  gold  upon 
the  table,  with  which  he  won  a handful  of  coin.  The  circum- 
stance reminded  me  so  much  of  “’49.  and  ’50”  in  California, 
that  I almost  imagined  myself  in  the  famous  El  Dorado  of  San 
Francisco,  or  the  Round  Tent  of  Sacramento.  I watched  the 
boy  until  he  had  finished  his  game,  and  then  drawing  him 
aside,  asked  him  where  he  had  obtained  the  specimen  I had  seen. 
“ Near  the  Rio  de  Espaha ,”  said  he  ; “ I often  go  there  when 
I am  out  of  money,  and  dig  for  a day  or  two  ; but  it  is  a wom- 
an’s business,  that  gold-digging,”  he  added,  rather  disdainfully. 
I asked  to  see  the  piece  he  had  staked  at  the  gaming-table, 
upon  which  he  produced  it,  with  several  smaller  pieces.  The 
largest  was  about  the  size  of  a walnut,  and  weighed,  by  the 
scales  in  Senor  Mateas  Polvon’s  store,  above  half  an  ounce. 
He  had  already  disposed  of  several  other  pieces  to  the  small 
traders  in  Jutecalpa,  and  willingly  exchanged  what  remained 
for  silver  coin. 

This  gold,  which  I carried,  with  other  specimens,  to  Califor- 
nia, and  which  has  since  been  taken  to  New  York,  was  of  ex- 
treme purity.  The  same  may  be  said  of  that  found  throughout 
the  valley  of  the  Guayape.  Its  hue  is  bright  yellow,  and  only 
the  smaller  particles  are  polished  by  attrition.  The  larger 
pieces  have  evidently  been  taken  out  in  dry  diggings,  as  they 
exhibit  a rough  exterior,  and  only  worn  in  a few  places  by  the 
action  of  rains  or  wet  sand.  Some  of  the  specimens  taken  from 
the  beds  of  rivers  are  shaped  like  muskmelon  seeds,  but  the 
greater  number  were  of  irregular  forms,  bright  as  new  gold  coin, 
having  apparently  lain  in  some  pot-hole  or  whirlpool,  where  the 
rotary  motion  of  the  water  and  sand  had  burnished  them  for  many 
successive  years.  These  samples  assayed  910  thousandths  fine, 
equal  to  a value  of  $18  81  per  ounce,  which  is  considerably 
above  the  average  of  California  gold.  The  assay  of  Mr.  Hews- 
ton,  of  the  U.  S.  Branch  Mint,  will  be  found  in  the  pages  de- 
voted to  mineral  subjects. 

During  my  stay  in  Olancho  I often  found  the  weather  un- 
comfortably cold,  so  that  the  scanty  bed-clothing  with  which  I 


336 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


had  passed  through  the  lowlands  of  Nicaragua  and  Southern 
Honduras  was  insufficient,  and  I was  obliged  to  make  use  of 
coats  and  other  appliances  to  keep  warm  at  night.  There  were 
showers  of  rain  at  intervals,  but  usually  a cold,  clear  sky  in  the 
morning,  which,  as  the  sun  ascended,  mellowed  the  fresh  atmos- 
phere into  a crisp  and  balmy  state,  possessing  a peculiarly  sooth- 
ing influence  on  the  mind,  and  leaving  the  effect  of  soft  rain-wa- 
ter on  the  skin.  Such  weather  lasted  through  the  funcion. 
The  lively  racket  of  the  earlier  celebrators  always  brought  me 
out  into  a shivering  cold  air,  and  there  were  usually  some  half- 
naked  little  muchachos  adding  fuel  to  a fire  blazing  in  the  joa- 
tio.  At  night  the  bonfires  on  the  Plaza  served  the  double  pur- 
pose of  an  illumination  and  warming  the  surrounding  groups. 
Even  the  dresses  of  the  better  classes  were  the  exact  opposite 
of  tropical  raiment.  Instead  of  thin  white  suits,  with  an  im- 
mensity of  shirt-bosom  displayed  from  a gauze  jacket  cast  open 
to  receive  every  breath  of  the  heated  air,  the  upper  classes  of 
Olancho  were  clad  in  suits  of  cloth,  with  waistcoats  of  the  same 
material,  and  odd-looking  English  stove-pipe  hats.  In  a word, 
the  fashionable  dresses  were  rather  those  of  a temperate  climate. 

The  bells  of  the  church  at  Jutecalpa  were  cast  many  years 
since,  and  stories  are  yet  recounted  of  the  pious  contributions 
of  the  women,  who,  to  propitiate  the  Virgin,  enriched  the  liquid 
metal  during  the  process  of  smelting  with  dust  and  chispas  of 
gold.  Every  hacendado  in  that  section  of  the  department  gave 
something.  There  is  above  1 cwt.  of  copper  and  silver  in  the 
four,  and  doubtless  a considerable  amount  of  gold.  The  copper 
was  obtained  from  the  mines  near  the  valley  of  Uloa  belonging 
to  General  Zelaya.  It  was  taken  out  under  his  direction,  and 
sent  to  town  with  great  ceremony  during  the  smelting.  The 
tone  of  the  bells  is  mellow  and  deep,  indicating  the  presence  of 
copper  and  silver. 

It  would  be  tedious  here  to  enumerate  the  various  amuse- 
ments, social  parties,  and  adventures  of  all  kinds  occurring  dur- 
ing my  visit  to  Jutecalpa.  Though  serving  to  illustrate  the 
character  and  customs  of  the  people,  they  would  prove  but  rep- 
etitions of  scenes  already  described.  The  routine  of  my  life 
among  these  hospitable  people  consisted  in  exchanging  for- 
mal visits,  making  long  horseback  excursions  into  the  coun- 


A POPULAR  FAVORITE. 


337 


try  bordering  the  Guayape  and  Jalan  rivers,  writing,  searching 
the  old  hieroglyphical  records  of  the  department,  map-making, 
note-taking,  negotiating  with  the  Zelayas,  and  “ talking  up”  the 
enterprise  and  industry  of  los  Americanos  del  Norte  at  all 
times  and  in  all  places.  Intelligent  people  entered  cordially 
into  my  views,  and  met  me  more  than  half  way  in  consumma- 
ting them.  Whichever  way  I turned,  kindness  and  simple  hos- 
pitality awaited  me,  and  I am  unable  at  this  moment  to  recall 
any  act  of  rudeness  or  insult  during  my  visit  at  Olancho.  I 
should  except  one  instance,  where  a little  Indian,  attached  to 
the  city  residence  of  General  Zelaya,  was  unable  to  resist  the 
temptation  of  a pocket-knife  which  I left  on  a table.  The  theft 
got  to  the  ears  of  Don  Francisco,  who  had  the  trembling  culprit 
brought  before  him,  where  he  was  thrashed  like  a sack  until  he 
revealed  the  hiding-place  of  the  stolen  property.  My  interces- 
sions were  in  vain.  The  hospitality  of  the  old  gentleman  had 
been  violated  by  one  of  his  household,  and  nothing  could  save 
the  offender  from  chastisement. 

Toward  the  close  of  the  funcion,  General  Zelaya  arrived  at 
Jutecalpa,  leaving  the  senora  at  Lepaguare,  where  she  was  yet 
ill.  Hearing  he  was  on  the  way,  a little  party  went  to  meet 
him  on  the  road.  As  we  re-entered  the  town,  which  was  while 
the  Plaza  was  filled  with  people,  a general  shout,  “ Viva  el 
General  Zelaya  /”  attested  to  his  popularity.  He  rode  a splen- 
did black  horse,  and  received  the  congratulations  of  his  friends 
with  pride  and  pleasure. 

At  his  house  a grand  ball  was  given  on  the  evening  of  the 
day  following  his  arrival.  As  many  as  could  crowd  into  the 
house  were  there ; and  after  the  dancing,  when  the  guests  had 
departed,  the  general  requested  a few  of  his  friends  to  remain, 
and  I had  the  good  fortune  to  be  included  among  the  number. 
A great  bowl  of  poncha  de  aguardiente  was  concocted,  the 
fumes  of  which  entered  the  heads  of  the  guests,  and  the  night 
was  spent  in  songs,  guitar-playing,  story-telling,  and  merry- 
making generally.  If  I add  that  an  occasional  song  in  “bar- 
barous  English”  mingled  with  the  more  liquid  and  silvery  Span- 
ish, it  will  serve  to  illustrate  with  how  little  a good-natured  and 
laughter-loving  audience  can  be  pleased.  Then,  too,  any  mis- 
take in  Tom  Moore’s  words,  or  the  less  classic  “ nigger  mim- 

Y 


338 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


strelsy,”  was,  under  these  circumstances,  exempt  from  criticism. 
Be  sure,  reader,  who  may  hereafter  visit  flowery  Olancho,  that 
to  sing  a song,  preserve  a confident  face,  and  touch  a chord  or 
two  on  the  guitar,  will  he  no  drawback  to  success  or  a kind  re- 
ception. 

General  Zelaya  was  no  exception  to  the  “ jpoco  a jjoco”  rule 
of  Spanish  Americans.  At  Lepaguare  he  had  promised  to  bring 
all  the  necessary  papers  with  him  to  Jutecalpa ; at  Jutecalpa 
he  insisted  that  quiet  Lepaguare  was  the  only  place  for  con- 
cluding a contract.  Any  attempt  to  hurry  an  Olanchano 
would  be  but  the  preliminary  step  to  the  destruction  of  what- 
ever enterprise  you  may  have  in  hand.  An  exhibition  of  Yan- 
kee promptness  or  hurry  stamps  you  as  a frivolous,  superficial 
fellow.  Accordingly,  I swallowed  my  impatience,  joined  in  the 
fun,  and  dismissed  all  nervous  anxiety  in  regard  to  expectant 
friends  at  home,  resolved  to  “ stick”  to  Olancho  until  I had  my 
contract  “ signed,  sealed,  and  delivered.” 

I was  not  altogether  sorry  at  the  delay  ; for,  setting  aside  the 
actual  pleasure  of  existence  in  these  delightful  elevated  lands,  I 
was  anxious  to  make  a trip  down  to  the  Indian  town  of  Cata- 
camas,  also  to  visit  the  ruins  of  Olancho  Antigua , the  former 
capital  of  the  department,  and  to  make  a personal  inspection  of 
the  rapids,  or  chiflones,  said  to  exist  below  the  junction  of  the 
Guayape  and  Guayambre.  I was  desirous  of  ascertaining 
whether  they  could  also  be  ascended  by  light-draft  steamers. 
Hearing  one  day  of  an  old  woman  at  Concepcion  (a  small  vil- 
lage eight  miles  southwest  of  Jutecalpa)  who  had  some  speci- 
mens of  gold,  I started,  with  the  Padre  Buenaventura,  toward 
the  valley  of  that  name,  desiring  to  see  the  famous  plain  through 
which  the  Guayape  flows,  and  also  to  purchase  specimens  of  the 
gold. 

A leisurely  ride  of  two  hours  brought  us  to  the  village  of  Con- 
cepcion, where  we  dismounted  at  the  door  of  La  Senora  Ysabel. 
The  venerable  dame  came  forward,  welcomed  the  padre  with  a 
voice  like  the  croak  of  an  expiring  raven,  and  then,  shading  her 
eyes  with  her  hand,  wrinkled  up  her  features,  and  took  a scru- 
tinizing look  at  the  stranger.  I made  her  a low  bow  and  pass- 
ed the  usual  compliments,  at  which,  imagining  that  she  recog- 
nized in  me  the  Senor  P from  Tegucigalpa,  and,  but  for 


SUNSET  AT  CONCEPCION. 


339 


an  adroit  movement  to  the  rear  on  my  part,  would  have  em- 
braced me  with  a more  ardent  affection  than  I was  anxious  to 
receive. 

Undeceived  in  this  respect,  she  invited  us  inside,  and  as  we 
had  yet  to  proceed  some  distance  farther  before  returning,  the 
padre  made  no  delay  in  imparting  the  object  of  our  visit.  She 
took  down  from  a jog  in  an  obscure  comer  an  oaken  box,  from 
which  she  drew  a smaller  one,  which  I thought  had  once  con- 
tained pills.  From  this  she  turned  out  upon  the  table  a little 
heap  of  gold  dust,  consisting  of  bits  from  an  impalpable  dust 
to  the  value  of  a dollar.  In  shape  and  color  they  resembled 
those  already  described  as  coming  from  the  Guayape  and  its 
tributaries. 

Her  daughters,  she  said,  had  been  lavaderas  for  some  years, 
and  were  now  absent  on  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Jalan. 
After  a little  haggling,  I purchased  the  lot,  amounting  to  about 
two  ounces,  at  the  rate  of  $12.75  per  ounce.  As  we  passed 
through  tne  village,  the  padre  exchanged  very  unclerical  glances 
with  more  than  one  of  the  female  portion  of  his  flock. 

The  scenery  from  any  part  of  the  valley  of  Concepcion  is 
charming.  It  is  a blending  of  the  most  delicately  penciled  hills, 
forming  an  amphitheatre,  with  a vernal  plain  of  surpassing  lux- 
uriance. The  chain  of  Carbonal  Mountains  runs  to  the  south- 
west along  the  Jalan  ; their  highest  peak  (called  the  “Mountain 
of  Roses,”  from  the  abundance  of  wild  flowers  adorning  its 
slopes)  bearing  nearly  east  from  the  village,  and  the  Jalan  be- 
yond flowing  placidly  to  its  junction  with  the  Guayape  below 
Jutecalpa. 

We  cantered  easily  along  toward  an  island  or  mound  of  green 
trees  some  ten  feet  higher  than  the  plain.  From  here  the  view 
was  so  exquisite  that  I determined  to  remain  and  witness  the 
sunset.  The  valley,  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  was  a wavy 
carpet  of  emerald,  with  blue  and  purple  hills  tumbled  up  from 
the  farther  extremity  to  an  altitude  of  1200  feet,  and  covered 
with  densely-leaved  trees.  This  carpet  was  stepped  upon  by 
some  three  thousand  cattle,  and  unnumbered  horses  and  mules, 
while  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  returning  from  the  day’s  pastu- 
rage, moved  slowly  toward  the  corral ; for  the  coyote  and  wolf 
are  abroad  in  Olancho,  and  ever  on  the  alert  for  unguarded 


340 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


flocks.  The  whole  picture  was  the  quintessence  of  pastoral 
beauty. 

The  setting  sun  shed  long  streaks  of  golden  light  through  the 
vistas  and  avenues  formed  by  the  trees,  and  a gentle  westerly 
wind  tempered  the  air  and  played  lazily  among  the  leaves.  Our 
horses,  which  the  padre  had  provided  (not  suffering  me  to  use 
my  own),  seemed  to  enjoy  the  landscape  as  much  as  ourselves. 
Leaving  our  little  oasis , if  such  a term  can  be  applied  to  a spot 
situated  on  a plain  itself  an  oasis,  we  gave  the  rein  to  our  ani- 
mals, and  away  we  streamed,  I on  a strong-limbed  dark  bay,  and 
the  padre,  who  rode  splendidly,  on  a beautiful  tordillo , which  he 
never  allowed  to  be  backed  by  any  one  but  himself.  Our  race- 
course was  without  impediment  of  rock  or  ravine,  and  the  pa- 
dre, who  had  not  yet  satisfied  himself  about  my  equestrian  ac- 
complishments, looked  back  as  he  shot  past  me  to  see  how  his 
competitor  fared.  His  shovel  hat  and  sober  garb,  with  the  ease 
of  his  seat,  reminded  me  of  some  descriptions  of  fighting  friars 
during  the  Mexican  war.  He  looked  a very  Padre  Jaurata. 
His  horse  had  decidedly  the  advantage,  and  would  have  contin- 
ued his  slapping  pace  quite  to  the  Guayape,  had  not  the  setting- 
sun  and  the  fading  of  painted  Monte  Rosa  into  the  dusky  night- 
shades warned  us  that  we  had  yet  some  distance  to  travel  back 
to  Jutecalpa. 

Stopping  at  a small  hacienda  to  buy  some  sweet  limes,  we 
cantered  homeward,  and,  crossing  the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa  again, 
entered  the  town.  The  valley  of  Concepcion  is  principally  the 
property  of  Senor  Garay,  and  he  expressed  his  willingness  to 
have  the  plain  the  site  of  a future  American  town.  Jutecalpa, 
he  thought,  would  not  please  the  Americans,  and  he  repeatedly 
offered  to  give  me  the  whole  valley  when  I should  return  with 
a colony.  There  is  said  to  be  a wagon  road  nearly  the  whole 
distance  from  Concepcion  to  La  Confluencia,  crossing  a few 
unimportant  streams,  and  following  the  westerly  bank  of  the 
Guayape.  The  plain  around  Concepcion  is  about  ninety  feet 
higher  than  that  of  Jutecalpa,  and  is  said  to  be  cooler,  but  I 
could  perceive  no  material  difference.  The  valley  is  reckoned 
one  of  the  best  grazing-grounds  in  all  Olancho. 


VALUABLE  WOODS. 


341 


CHAPTEE  XIX. 

Precious  Woods  of  Olancho. — The  “ Cortes.” — El  Retiro. — A Gold  Mill. — An 
Olancho  Machinist. — Monte  Rosa. — Boxwood. — Valley  of  the  Guayape. — San 
Francisco. — Rio  Jalan.  — A Forest  Scene.  — The  Mahogany  Trade.  — Corte 
Sara. — Preparing  for  the  Cutting. — Las  Tortilleras. — Location  of  the  Cortes. 
— Roads. — Cutting. — Sawing. — Dragging. — Rafting. — Pipantes.  — Navigating 
the  Patook. — Rio  Jalan. — Its  Gold  Placers. — Americans  in  Olancho. — The 
Guayape  Gold  Region. — Red  Plumiria. — Wild  Silk. — Arana  de  Seda. — Route 
along  the  Jalan. — Quebracha. — A Fandango. — Lake  of  Quebracha. — Don  Ga- 
briel.— Hard  Fare. — Baked  Armadillo. — A Golden  Legend. — Hunting. — Tou- 
can.— Tapir. — Blue-winged  Teal. — Wild  Turkey. — Birds  of  Olancho. — Tapis- 
cuinte. — Familiar  Animals. 

Some  weeks  after  my  arrival  at  Jutecalpa,  I received  an  invi- 
tation from  my  friend,  Senor  Ocampo,  to  visit  with  him  the  ma- 
hogany-cutting or  bank  on  the  Eiver  Jalan,  known  as  Corte 
Sara.  I had  had  frequent  conversations  with  him  respecting 
the  various  localities  where  his  men  were  at  work.  These  were 
the  cortes  Mescales  (near  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  Catacamas), 
Frio,  on  the  river  of  that  name  falling  into  the  Guayambre,  and 
Sara,  on  the  Jalan.  The  name  of  the  fourth,  near  a little  vil- 
lage called  Alajagua,  I have  neglected  to  note,  as  also  the  loca- 
tion of  the  village.  Senor  Ocampo  is  also  the  proprietor  of  a 
corte  on  the  Lower  Guayape,  known  as  Las  Guapinoles. 

In  estimating  the  resources  of  the  region  drained  by  the  Pa- 
took, Poyas,  and  Aguan  Eivers,  the  precious  woods  are  proba- 
bly entitled  to  particular  consideration  (even  taking  precedence 
of  the  minerals),  from  their  vast  quantity,  rarity,  and  accessibil- 
ity. Besides  the  familiar  woods,  such  as  mahogany,  rosewood, 
lignum  vitfe,  Brazil-wood,  logwood,  oak,  cedar,  and  ebony,  there 
are  a variety  of  valuable  kinds  almost  unknown  to  trade  or  man- 
ufacture, which,  as  Honduras  becomes  better  known,  will  be 
brought  into  general  use.  Some  of  these  bearing  the  local 
names  will  be  hereafter  enumerated  among  the  natural  produc- 
tions of  the  country.  The  cutting  and  exportation  of  mahoga- 
ny is  perhaps  the  most  important  branch  of  industry  and  com- 
merce. In  a country  so  favored  by  Nature  as  Olancho,  drained 


h\})W' 


342 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


by  rivers  connecting  its  farthest  interior  with  the  sea,  and  trav- 
ersed by  vast  belts  of  the  most  valuable  woods  known,  the  bus- 
iness growing  out  of  such  advantages  can  not  fail  to  take  pre- 
cedence of  all  others.  Extraordinary  inducements  have  been 
held  out  by  the  government  for  the  enterprise  of  foreigners,  and 
a glance  at  the  extent  of  territory  embraced  by  Olancho  shows 
the  cutting  of  mahogany  to  be  as  yet  but  in  its  infancy. 

Knowing  that  I should  not  have  time  to  visit  more  than  one 
cutting,  I accepted  with  alacrity  the  invitation  of  Senor  Ocampo 
for  a journey  to  Corte  Sara.  Obliged,  as  usual,  to  leave  my 
horse,  I was  furnished  with  a strong  mule,  and,  accompanied  by 
my  boy  Roberto  and  two  mahogany-cutters  of  Don  Opolonio, 
we  set  forth  at  daybreak,  in  order  to  reach  the  hacienda  of  San 
Francisco  by  nightfall,  the  road  leading  over  the  mountain  range 
trending  away  from  Monte  Rosa. 

A short  ride  took  us  well  into  the  picturesque  valley  of  Con- 
cepcion, which  after  traversing  some  ten  miles  through  herds 
of  cattle,  winding  among  acacias  and  a variety  of  gum-trees  and 


PRIMITIVE  CRUSHING  MILL. 


MINING  MACHINERY. 


343 


bushes,  we  came  to  the  nearest  ford,  a celebrated  mining  lo- 
cality known  as  El  Retiro.  Here  a Senor  Marano  had  erect- 
ed a rude  arrastre  or  mill,  consisting  of  two  large  rocks  attach- 
ed to  the  ends  of  a vertical  beam,  and  dragged  around  in  a cir- 
cular trough,  carried  by  the  waters  of  a riachuelo  flowing  into 
the  Guayape.  The  emjpresario  (such  he  called  himself)  regard- 
ed his  crazy  bit  of  machinery  with  a self-satisfied  smile,  and  in- 
quired if  the  art  of  mining  had  reached  that  point  in  el  Norte. 
I assured  him  it  had  not,  and,  as  usual,  loaded  his  work  with 
praises,  which  so  gratified  him  that  he  brought  out  a calabash 
of  tiste  from  his  branch  hut  for  us.  The  Guayape  is  here  a 
slow-flowing,  magnificent  stream,  and  during  the  heavy  rains 
must  carry  an  immense  body  of  water.  At  the  time  we  visited 
it  there  were  occasional  showers,  the  last  of  the  rainy  season. 
The  banks  on  the  opposite  side  from  where  we  stood  were  yet 
matted  with  the  dried  debris  of  the  late  floods,  showing,  at  an 
elevation  of  twenty-five  feet  above  the  river’s  present  level,  where 
the  waters  had  poured  toward  the  ocean  with  a depth  capable 
of  bearing  the  steamers  of  the  Mississippi  on  their  bosom. 

Senor  Marano  had  scraped 
a hole  into  the  hill  adjoining 
the  river,  from  which  he 
brought  out,  with  the  aid  of 
two  workmen,  a species  of 
soft  red  rock,  in  which  the 
particles  of  gold  were  con- 
tained. I wondered  at  such 
a display  of  energy ; but  he 
quickly  replied,  “ I am  a Gua- 
temalan, senor ; these  Olan- 
chanos  would  scare 
tempt,  I imagine,  such  ma- 
chinery as  that !”  The  self- 
complacency  of  the  speaker 
was  exquisite.  I would  not 
have  lost  the  speech  for  the 
results  of  a week’s  labor  with 
his  miserable  contrivance  of 
rocks,  thongs  of  hide,  and  tree- 


344 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


trunks.  He  managed,  he  said,  to  grind  up  about  five  cwt.  of 
rock  per  day,  from  which  he  sometimes  got  from  two  to  five 
dollars  worth  of  gold,  and  sometimes  unada,  nadita ” (nothing — 
very  nothing).  Quicksilver  he  had  never  used,  and  generally 
reduced  the  pulverized  rock  by  the  ordinary  panning  process — 
with  bateas.  He  was  very  anxious  to  have  me  remain  and  ex- 
amine the  country  in  that  vicinity  ; “ and,  above  all,”  said  he, 
“ do  not  fail  to  bring  your  great  company  here  to  work  this 
vein.”  So  we  parted,  and  I afterward  heard  wonderful  stories 
about  El  Retiro  and  its  former  wealth. 

I saw  enough,  however,  to  convince  me  that,  with  a Califor- 
nian quartz-crusher  capable  of  working  thirty  or  forty  tons  of 
rock  a day,  to  replace  the  primitive  contrivance  of  Senor  Marano, 
this,  among  other  localities,  could  be  made  to  yield  a fortune  to 
the  adventurous  miner. 

My  new  acquaintance  promised  to  have  some  specimens  for 
me  on  my  return,  and,  after  an  exchange  of  dgarros , and  a 
hearty  “ to  God ” from  the  senor,  we  entered  the  river,  and 
forded  it,  with  the  water  nearly  deep  enough  to  float  away  our 
animals.  From  the  eastern  bank  we  began  a gentle  ascent  to- 
ward the  range  of  Monte  Rosa,  the  slope  of  the  hills  wooded 
with  pine,  cedar,  mahogany,  and  the  usual  variety  of  the  Olan- 
cho  forest.  Here  I first  noted  the  boxwood-tree,  used  for  en- 
graving. The  tree  is  tall,  with  bright,  smooth,  yellow  bark.  A 
likeness  of  President  Cabanas  is  said  to  have  been  taken  by  an 
American  at  Comayagua  on  boxwood  found  in  the  valleys  of 
Western  Honduras. 

Monte  Rosa  is  about  1600  feet  above  the  plain  of  Jutecalpa, 
and  from  its  summit  is  obtained  the  most  superb  view  imagin- 
able : range  upon  range  of  blue  mountains,  intersected  with 
belts  of  silver,  denoting  the  courses  of  the  principal  rivers,  and 
the  cattle-plains  spreading  out  like  flower-gardens  among  them. 
Below  us,  to  the  right  and  left,  flowed  the  Guayape  and  Jalan, 
while  far  away  the  broken  ridges  showed  where  these  and  the 
Guayambre,  joining  their  waters  toward  the  northeast,  formed 
the  great  Patook,  passing  now  through  extensive  plains,  or 
thridding  the  rocky  passes  of  the  dividing  ridges. 

Descending  by  a tortuous  path,  we  struck  off  to  the  northeast, 
toward  the  hacienda  of  San  Francisco,  eight  miles  distant,  which 


IN  THE  DEEP  FOREST. 


345 


point  we  reached  about  sundown,  having  performed  since  morn- 
ing, via  El  Retiro,  a distance  of  some  twenty-two  miles.  San 
Francisco  is  the  property  of  Senor  Bustillos,  and  is  one  of  three 
estates  belonging  to  him.  It  was  quite  dark  when  we  arrived, 
and,  after  a hasty  meal,  I was  glad  to  tumble,  half  asleep,  into 
my  hammock,  without  troubling  myself  about  the  beauties  or 
oddities  of  the  place. 

Roberto  awoke  me  at  early  dawn,  and,  after  an  ablution  in 
the  brook  flowing  into  the  Jalan,  we  started  for  the  corte. 
The  hacienda  stands  at  the  entrance  of  a dense  growth  of  trop- 
ical forest,  in  which  the  mahogany  was  the  predominating  tree. 
The  surrounding  mountains,  densely  wooded,  were,  as  the  may- 
or-domo  informed  us,  a famous  locality  for  the  vanilla  plant. 
These  mountains  are  a low,  semicircular  range,  shooting  off  from 
Monte  Rosa  and  the  Carbonales.  Don  Opolonio  here  negotiated 
for  a few  head  of  cattle,  which  accounted  for  his  deviation  to  the 
northward  from  the  road  to  Sara. 

The  Jalan  at  Corte  Sara  is  a considerable  river.  It  flows 
slowly  and  deeply  to  the  northward  through  a hilly,  undulating 
country,  and  is  here  crossed  with  a jpipante,  or  canoe.  Cattle 
have  often  died  here,  becoming  stuck  in  the  alluvion  bordering 
the  stream,  where  they  resort  to  drink.  For  several  miles  to  the 
north  and  west,  and  for  an  unknown  distance  eastward  toward 
the  Guayambre,  the.  country  is  a dense  forest,  out  of  which  the 
large  rafts  of  mahogany  and  other  valuable  woods  are  obtained, 
floating  down  that  river  and  the  Jalan  to  the  Guayape. 

It  is  impossible  to  convey  any  adequate  idea  of  the  solemn 
grandeur  of  these  forests ; darkness,  even  at  midday,  envelops 
their  dusky  vistas  ; no  temple  reared  by  art  could  equal  the  awe- 
inspiring sublimity  of  their  cathedral  arches,  no  organ  compete 
with  the  swelling  anthems  of  the  wind  rolling  and  rustling 
among  their  venerable  trees.  Long,  pendent  ropes  of  laines 
droop  from  the  lofty  limbs  to  the  ground,  presenting  a lace-work 
of  green  leaves  and  vines,  interspersed  with  spots  of  red  and 
purple,  to  indicate  the  presence  of  rare  and  nameless  flowers. 
The  night-blooming  cereus,  and  the  jpasalte,  spotted  like  the 
wing  of  a gorgeous  butterfly,  mingled  their  hues  with  the  luxu- 
riant air-plant,  the  whole  viewed  as  through  a glass  darkened. 
The  ceibas,  of  lofty  proportions,  with  hanging  gardens  made  by 


346 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


the  rooting  of  parasites  among  their  limbs,  stand  bearing  aloft 
great  mats  of  verdure,  far  beyond  the  reach  of  man  except 
when  leveled  by  the  axe.  Through  the  roots,  at  long  inter- 
vals, I noticed,  as  we  traversed  them,  the  remains  of  roads  lead- 
ing to  the  now  discarded  cortes,  from  the  vicinity  of  which  all 
the  available  timber  had  been  cut.  Even  Gorte  Sara  itself, 
Senor  Ocampo  said,  was  becoming  exhausted,  and  doubtless,  ere 
this,  has  been  abandoned.  About  forty  men  are  employed  by 
Senor  Ocampo  at  Corte  Sara.  This  is  one  of  twelve  cortes  in 
the  entire  department. 

Without  doubt,  Olancho  takes  precedence  of  all  other  sections 
of  Central  America  as  a mahogany-producing  region,  its  allu- 
vions and  the  banks  of  all  its  rivers  bearing  inexhaustible  for- 
ests. This  tree  rises  in  majestic  beauty  above  the  surrounding 
woods,  and,  excepting  the  palm,  is  the  tallest  of  the  vegetable 
kingdom  in  Honduras.  Its  branches  spread  far  and  wide,  am- 
ply clothed  with  perpetual  foliage,  and,  aside  from  being  an  im- 
portant article  of  export,  its  wood  serves  many  purposes  of  life, 
such  as  handles  for  tools  and  weapons,  canoes,  building  materi- 
al, and  household  furniture.* 

Along  the  entire  coast,  from  the  Motagua  to  Cape  Gracias  a 
Dios,  the  rivers  are  bordered  with  forests  of  mahogany,  and, 
though  not  in  equal  quantities,  those  discharging  into  the  Pa- 
cific are  found  also  to  abound  in  this  valuable  timber.  The 
Ulua,  Chamelicon,  and  its  lower  tributaries,  the  Limon,  Roman 
or  Aguan,  the  Tinto  or  Black  River,  the  Guayape  or  Patook, 
and  the  Great  Wanks,  flowing  into  the  Caribbean  Sea,  are  each 
the  scene  of  mahogany-cutting  operations,  which,  greatly  in- 
creasing in  the  last  thirty  years,  have  scarcely  made  a mark  in 

* “ It  is  one  of  the  most  majestic  and  beautiful  of  trees.  Its  trunk'  is  often  40 
feet  in  length  and  6 feet  in  diameter,  and  it  divides  into  so  many  massy  arms, 
and  throws  the  shade  of  its  shining  green  leaves  over  so  vast  an  extent  of  sur- 
face, that  few  more  magnificent  objects  are  to  be  met  with  in  the  vegetable  world. 
Honduras  mahogany  is  in  logs  from  2 to  4 feet  square,  and  12  to  14  feet  long ; 
but  some  logs  are  much  larger.  Like  the  pine,  it  thrives  best  on  dry,  rocky  soil, 
or  exposed  situations.  That  which  is  most  accessible  in  Honduras  grows  upon 
low,  moist  land,  and  is  decidedly  inferior  to  that  brought  from  Hayti  and  Cuba. 
But  the  Honduras  has  the  advantage  of  holding  glue  admirably,  and  is,  for  this 
reason,  frequently  used  as  a ground  on  which  to  lay  veneers  of  the  finer  sorts. 
The  produce  of  one  tree  was  once  3 logs  15  feet  long  and  38  inches  square.” — 
Lib.  Ent.  Knowl .,  vol.  on  Timber , Trees,  and  Fruits. 


THE  MAHOGANY  BUSINESS. 


347 


the  boundless  wilds  teeming  with  this  and  other  precious 
woods.  Some  of  the  most  accessible  locations  are  yet  virgin 
forest,  untouched,  and  will  doubtless  remain  so  for  many  years. 
On  the  Ulua,  Mr.  Follen,  American  consul,  is  said  to  have  con- 
ducted the  most  extensive  cuttings  in  the  country,  the  govern- 
ment having  granted  him  valuable  privileges  for  certain  consid- 
erations. Much  of  the  wood  is  shipped  direct  to  the  United 
States,  though  considerable  quantities  reach  Balize,  in  Yucatan, 
and  help  to  make  up  the  extensive  cargoes  which  for  many 
years  have  gone  from  that  port  to  Europe.  Within  five  years, 
in  connection  with  Senor  Fernandez,  two  Englishmen  have  es- 
tablished mahogany-cuttings  on  the  Homan,  the  proceeds  being 
rafted  to  the  bar  of  the  river,  where  it  is  said  vessels  of  two 
hundred  tons  may  load. 

Stations  also  exist  on  the  Black  River ; those  on  the  Wanks 
have  of  late  years  been  obstructed  by  the  rafts  of  drift-wood 
which  have  accumulated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  Wanks 
mahogany  trade  was  formerly  of  sufficient  importance  to  pay  for 
the  cutting  of  a navigable  canal  from  the  main  river  into  the  lit- 
tle anchorage  of  Gracias  a Dios,  through  which  rafts  were  con- 
ducted to  the  shipping.  This  is  reported  to  be  filled  up  by  the 
alluvial  deposit  from  above. 

On  the  Pacific  coast  of  Central  America,  bordering  the  Bay 
of  Fonseca,  the  mahogany  trade  has  been  attempted  with  some 
success  since  the  establishment  of  the  California  trade.  Several 
cargoes  have  been  shipped  both  to  California  and  Peru.  Rafts 
of  mahogany,  brought  from  the  low  lands  about  the  Rivers  Goas- 
coran  and  Choluteca,  are  landed  at  Tigre  Island,  towed  by  bon- 
gos across  the  bay  to  the  saw-mill  at  the  free  port  of  Amapala, 
where  limited  quantities  are  sawed.  Near  Acajutla,  a sea-port 
of  San  Salvador,  are  forests  of  mahogany  and  other  valuable 
woods,  which  at  this  time  are  exciting  the  attention  of  San  Fran- 
cisco capitalists  ; but  the  mahogany  trade  on  the  Pacific  side  of 
Central  America  will  yet  require  many  years  to  become  remu- 
nerative and  permanent,  there  being  no  sure  market  for  the  wood, 
and  no  attempt  having  been  made,  as  in  Brazil-wood  and  log- 
wood in  Costa  Rica  and  Nicaragua,  to  ship  it  to  Europe. 

On  the  coast  of  the  Caribbean  it  forms  the  most  remunerative 
business,  and  is  the  chief  source  of  the  revenue  of  the  republic 


348 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


of  Honduras.  The  export  duty  is  inconsiderable,  collected  by 
officers  who  are  easily  bribed,  so  that  not  a tithe  of  the  taxes  is 
ever  collected.  Capital,  and  great  intelligence  and  industry,  are 
requisite  for  the  successful  prosecution  of  the  mahogany  busi- 
ness. One  corte,  or  bank,  often  employs  during  the  season  from 
thirty  to  fifty  workmen,  who  are  paid  weekly,  and  supplied  with 
provisions  packed  and  dragged  over  made  roads,  or  carried  in 
canoes  many  leagues  into  the  interior. 

In  times  of  scarcity  these  supplies  must  be  brought  mpipan- 
tes,  or  pitmans,  from  the  sea-ports,  or  up  the  rivers  from  vessels 
anchored  at  the  bar,  a journey  often  exceeding  a month  down 
and  back.  Most  of  the  cutting  done  in  Honduras  is  under  the 
auspices  of  English  and  European  houses.  The  mode  of  cut- 
ting and  sending  mahogany  to  market  is  nearly  the  same  in  all 
parts  of  the  Spanish  Main.  In  Balize,  Tabasco,  and  other  more 
frequented  depots,  modem  improvements  are  doubtless  intro- 
duced ; but  the  method  now  pursued  on  the  Guayape,  Jalan,  and 
Guayambre  will  perhaps  serve  to  illustrate  that  of  Honduras, 
or  at  least  the  eastern  section,  which  is,  as  yet,  the  scene  of  lim- 
ited operations. 

The  routine  of  seasons  allows  but  six  months  in  the  year  for 
the  business.  Early  in  December  the  proprietor  of  the  corte 
commences  to  assemble  his  people,  many  of  whom  are  Jamaica 
blacks,  whose  habits  and  muscular  proportions  peculiarly  fit 
them  for  such  laborious  work.  At  this  time  the  proceeds  of 
the  last  season’s  work  have  usually  been  expended  in  gay  re- 
gatta shirts,  red  sashes,  and  various  articles  of  finery  for  them- 
selves and  women,  or  oftener  has  disappeared  at  the  monte- ta- 
ble, so  that  at  the  call  of  the  patron  all  are  ready  to  renew  the 
toil.  All  useless  articles  are  left  behind,  the  laborers  working- 
in  nearly  a state  of  nature. 

The  cortes  are  but  temporary  villages  of  palm-thatched  huts, 
placed  as  near  to  the  river  as  the  locality  of  the  best  timber  will 
permit.  Most  of  the  choppers  are  obtained  from  Jutecalpa,  and 
the  bustle  of  preparation  wonderfully  enlivens  that  place  for  a 
few  days  previous  to  their  departure,  when,  accompanied  by  a 
number  of  women  (i tortilleras ),  the  parties  make  for  their  re- 
spective cortes,  under  the  guidance  of  the  woodman  or  hunter, 
who  is  usually  selected  from  among  the  most  experienced  and 
intelligent  of  the  Jamaicans. 


PREPARING  FOR  THE  CUTTING. 


349 


Senor  Ocampo's  gangs  were  subdivided  into  bands  of  eight 
or  ten  each,  with  its  leader  or  “ boss the  women,  acting  the 
part  of  cook,  receive  the  weekly  rations  from  the  steward  of  the 
corte,  and  are  paid  a small  salary  for  this  duty.  Attempts  have 
been  made  to  introduce  corn-grinding  machines,  and  thus  dis- 
pense with  the  women,  who,  it  appears,  do  not  confine  their  tal- 
ents to  culinary  avocations,  and  are  the  fruitful  theme  of  fights 
and  jealousies  between  the  bravos  and  the  negroes,  constituting 
rival  claimants  for  the  favor  of  las  tortilleras.  At  Galeras  I saw 
near  a dozen  of  these  machines  piled  up  as  worthless  trash: 
they  had  been  summarily  expelled  from  the  mahogany  banks 
by  unanimous  outcry,  the  women  being  the  most  clamorous 
against  this  attack  upon  their  time-honored  privileges ; and  the 
tortilla , with  its  laborious,  snail-paced  process  of  manufacture, 
was  duly  reinstalled,  amid  the  triumphant  rejoicings  of  its  de- 
fenders. 

Arrived  at  the  corte , the  gang  proceeds  to  erect  huts,  or  to  re- 
pair old  ones,  while  the  huntsman,  who  now  becomes  a man  of 
great  importance,  makes  his  way  into  the  forest,  and,  after  long 
deliberation,  selects  the  most  eligible  places  for  cutting.  Upon 
his  judgment  rests,  to  a great  degree,  the  season’s  success.  The 
location  should  combine,  as  nearly  as  possible,  proximity  to  the 
river,  the  intervening  country  such  as  can  be  crossed  by  built 
roads ; the  trees  should  be  numerous  enough  to  avoid  a second 
construction  of  roads  during  the  season,  and  so  situated  as  to 
avoid  the  clearing  of  much  timber.  A place  combining  all  these 
facilities,  however,  is  rarely  met  with,  and  the  cutting  of  paths 
for  the  exit  of  the  wood  after  felling  is  usually  a considerable 
part  of  the  labor.  The  huntsman  is  provided  with  a conch, 
which  he  sounds  from  time  to  time,  and  which  is  answered  by 
his  companions. 

Eoads  are  often  built  directly  to  the  river,  the  conch  serving 
as  a guide  ; for,  amid  these  vast  and  silent  forests,  the  dense 
underbrush  presents  an  impenetrable  barrier  to  the  progress  of 
man  or  animal.  Senor  Ocampo,  I believe,  enjoys  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  cutting  mahogany  in  this  section,  and  therefore  meets 
with  no  such  opposition  or  rivalry  as  exists  in  British  Hondu- 
l'as  (or  Balize),  and  other  points  on  the  Spanish  Main.  Stagings 
are  raised  around  the  trunks  of  the  trees  about  eight  feet  from 


350 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  ground,  two  men  being  allotted  to  a tree.  The  wood  from 
the  trunk  is  preferable  to  that  of  any  other  part,  but  the  limbs 
generally  afford  the  most  variegated  specimens,  such  as  are  used 
in  the  construction  of  finer  work.  The  spectacle  of  a falling 
mahogany-tree  is  one  which  could  not  be  easily  forgotten. 
Toppling  from  its  firm  base,  the  giant  of  the  tropical  forest 
crashes  upon  the  surrounding  foliage,  tearing  through  huge 
branches,  and  beating  down  with  its  widespreading  arms  an 
immense  space  in  the  thicket.  Unlike  the  fall  of  the  pine,  this 
tree  seldom  splits  or  breaks,  its  vast  strength  bearing  down  all 
obstacles. 

It  is  common  to  assert  that  life  in  the  tropics  is  attended  with 
none  of  the  vigor  of  constitution  ascribed  to  more  temperate  re- 
gions, and  that  labor,  in  the  American  acceptation  of  the  term, 
is  next  to  impossible.  The  supposition  is  significantly  dis- 
proved in  the  mahogany  banks.  Not  only  does  this  work  re- 
quire, through  all  its  phases,  the  severest  muscular  exertion, 
equaling  that  of  the  Herculean  raftsmen  and  choppers  of  the 
Penobscot,  but  in  all  Central  America  the  fame  of  the  mahog- 
any-cutters for  strength  and  power  of  endurance  is  widespread 
and  recognized.  Indeed,  I doubt  if,  on  an  equal  footing,  the  best 
Northern  woodsmen  could  successfully  compete  with  those  of 
Honduras. 

When  a sufficient  number  of  trees  have  been  felled  to  occupy 
the  rest  of  the  season  in  sawing  and  teaming,  they  are  separated 
into  logs  from  eight  to  sixteen  feet  in  length ; some  trees  turn- 
ing out  five,  and  others  not  more  than  two.  The  logs  are  saw- 
ed with  reference  to  their  circumference,  as  many  are  of  such 
size  that  the  entire  force  of  the  gang  is  required  to  get  them 
upon  the  drags.  Crosscut  saws  are  used  exclusively  for  the 
business,  which,  like  all  industrial  implements  used  in  Hondu- 
ras, are  imported  from  England.  After  being  squared,  to  re- 
move all  the  weight  possible,  the  logs  are  raised,  by  means  of 
wooden  levers,  up  an  inclined  plane  to  a level  with  the  drag, 
which  is  of  immense  strength,  and  stands  lengthwise  with  the 
log.  When  at  the  top,  the  burden  is  easily  rolled  upon  it,  and 
now  commences  the  most  laborious  part  of  the  work.  The  drag 
is  often  dispensed  with,  and  the  logs  drawn  singly,  with  chains, 
to  the  river.  They  must  be  conveyed  to  the  embarcadero  be- 


DRAGGING  TO  THE  RIVER. 


351 


fore  the  setting  in  of  the  rainy  season,  which  commences  in 
May,  and  if  the  operations  of  chopping  and  sawing  have  occu- 
pied an  unusual  time,  the  dragging  is  conducted  with  great  en- 
ergy. 

After  the  first  rains,  which  last  usually  for  a week,  the  roads, 
however  well  they  may  have  been  built,  become  impassable. 
The  premonition  of  dense  fogs  and  portentous  clouds  are  sure 
indications  to  the  mahogany-cutters  of  the  approaching  storm. 
The  work  is  now  continued  night  and  day.  Sundays  and  dias 
de  fiesta,  on  which  the  Catholic  creed  of  the  workmen  exempts 
them  from  labor,  are  sacrificed  to  the  urgency  of  the  occasion ; 
aguardiente , double  rations  and  pay,  and  every  other  induce- 
ment likely  to  tempt  the  workmen,  are  offered.  The  noonday 
heat  along  the  low  river  bottoms  forbids  the  task  of  teaming  ex- 
cept at  night.  The  drags  are,  therefore,  loaded  and  started  at 
an  hour  which  will  admit  of  reaching  the  river  by  early  morning. 

At  such  times  the  forest  echoes  with  the  yelling  of  drivers 
and  the  heavy  scraping  of  the  drags  as  they  move  slowly  through 
the  tangled  wilderness.  The  cattle  are  preceded  by  boys  car- 
rying  pitch-pine  knots,  serving  to  light  the  way  through  what 
would  else  be  Egyptian  darkness ; for  even  at  midday  the  rays 
of  the  sun  scarcely  penetrate  these  silent  solitudes,  through 
which  the  huntsman  is  sometimes  an  entire  day  in  cutting  a 
mile,  and  the  ground  is  an  almost  impenetrable  mat  of  creeping 
vines  and  thick  bushes.  As  the  procession  slowly  advances, 
the  oxen,  sometimes  attached  eight  yoke  to  a drag,  are  often 
forced  to  the  ground  in  their  struggles,  or  are  maimed  by  the 
deep  interstices  of  the  road. 

When  the  application  of  the  goad,  bringing  blood  with  every 
thrust,  fails  to  raise  the  exhausted  creature,  he  is  unyoked,  and 
his  place  supplied  by  another  from  the  corral , the  failing  animal 
answering  for  came  for  the  next  day’s  consumption.  The  flick- 
ering blaze  of  the  torches  serves  to  throw  a picturesque  glow 
athwart  the  scene,  lighting  up  the  swarthy,  haggard  faces  of  the 
men,  penetrating  the  Gothic  aisles  of  the  dark  woods  around, 
and  shedding  a ruddy  light  upon  the  rude  implements,  bare 
breasts  and  arms,  and  grotesque  costumes  of  the  laborers. 

Arrived  at  the  river,  the  logs  are  tumbled  in,  and  if  the  em- 
barcadero  is  on  any  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Guayape,  they  are 


352 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


allowed  to  drift  to  the  main  river,  at  a point  about  a league 
above  its  junction  with  the  Guayambre.  Plugs  of  cedar  or 
pine  are  driven  into  each  end  of  the  logs  before  committing 
them  to  the  river,  to  assist  in  floating  the  wood.  The  first 
rains  swell  the  rivers  to  such  a degree  that  there  scarcely  seems 
an  outlet  for  the  turbid  waters  poured  into  them  from  the  roar- 
ing mountain  affluents  above. 

The  task  of  safely  piloting  the  logs  to  the  sea  now  com- 
mences. As  is  elsewhere  remarked,  there  are  several  chiflones 
or  rapids  in  the  Guayape  below  the  mouth  of  the  Guayambre. 
In  periods  of  high  water  these  are  safely  navigated  by  the  ma- 
hogany rafts,  and  Senor  Ocampo  assured  me  he  has  rarely  lost 
a log  among  the  thousands  he  has  intrusted  to  the  current. 
They  are  attended  by  some  of  the  gang  in  pipantes  or  canoes, 
usually  “dug-outs”  from  the  cedar  and  ceiba. 

This  river  craft  varies  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  in  length  by 
about  four  or  five  in  breadth.  The  ends  are  elevated,  and 
sharp  pointed  like  a northern  fishing  “ pinkey.”  Over  the  stern 
a series  of  semicircular  ribs  are  stretched,  covered  with  cloth, 
serving  for  the  chosa  or  cabin,  in  which  the  scanty  stores  for  the 
voyage  are  stored.*  Paddles  are  used  to  navigate  through  the 
more  rapid  currents,  and  thus  prepared,  the  last  act  of  the  ma- 
hogany business  is  performed  in  descending  the  broad  Patook 
to  the  ocean.  During  the  trip,  which  usually  lasts  from  six  to 
eight  days,  the  jpijoanteros  land  at  times  amid  the  wild  solitudes 
on  either  hand,  and  supply  their  wants  by  hunting,  or  from 
some  circling  eddy  drag  out  a struggling  cuyamel-  or  catfish. 
Sometimes  they  stop  to  chaffer  with  the  Indians  inhabiting  the 
region  of  the  Lower  Guayape  and  Patook.  These  are  scattered 
parties  of  the  Guacos  and  Poyas  tribes. 

Senor  Ocampo,  who  made  numerous  trips  down  the  Guayape 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Patook,  represents  the  Indians  below  the 

* The  pipantes  or  pitpans  described  by  Herrera  as  encountered  by  Don  Bar- 
tolome  Columbus  in  the  Bay  of  Honduras  were  probably  similar  to  the  largest 
now  used  on  the  Patook  or  in  the  Bay  of  Fonseca.  Those  seen  at  Panama,  and 
which  perform  fruit  voyages  down  the  New  Granadan  coast,  will  probably  better 
answer  the  description.  That  above  referred  to  was  eight  feet  in  width,  and  as 
long  as  a Spanish  galley.  An  awning  or  roof  of  palm-leaves  and  mats  was 
built  over  the  middle,  under  which  the  women  and  children  were  protected  from 
the  rain  and  spray  of  the  sea.  It  was  laden  with  goods  from  Yucatan. 


PIPANTES  ON  THE  GUAYAPE. 


353 


stern,  raising  the  bows  of  the  frail  vessel  out  of  the  water,  while, 
with  the  velocity  of  a frightened  deer,  she  glances  across,  carried 
by  the  current  and  her  own  impetus.  While  taking  their  flying 
leap,  the  little  crew  dexterously  resume  their  seats,  and  become 
again  motionless  as  statues,  except  now  and  then  a touch  of  the 
feathery  paddle  into  the  water,  like  the  nervous  play  of  a dol- 
phin’s tail,  to  guide  their  rapid  descent. 

Z 


Rio  de  Tabaco  as  entirely  uncivilized  and  wild.  Sometimes,  in 
descending  the  river,  he  came  upon  small  canoes  as  he  rounded 
some  abrupt  turn,  containing  squaws  on  fishing  expeditions, 
who,  at  sight  of  the  approaching  raft,  would  paddle  with  all 
speed  to  the  bank,  snatching  up  the  pipante,  and  disappearing 
with  it  in  the  woods. 

These  pipantes  are  shallow  and  lightly  constructed,  though 
of  considerable  length.  They  have  a very  gradual  curve  at 
either  end,  to  facilitate  their  passage  among  the  rapids  and  over 
the  timber  and  logs  passing  down  the  river  at  certain  seasons. 
On  approaching  these  floating  obstructions,  the  Indians  ply  their 
paddles  vigorously  until  the  canoe  has  darted  with  the  swift 
current  nearly  upon  the  logs,  among  which  the  waters  are  hiss- 
ing like  a boiling  caldron.  At  a signal,  they  jump  into  the 


354 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


The  mahogany  vessels  along  the  coast  of  Eastern  Honduras 
are  mostly  small  schooners,  and  used  as  droughers  to  Balize, 
whence  their  cargoes  are  shipped  in  large  vessels  to  Europe  and 
the  United  States.  Senor  Ocampo  had  as  yet  sent  down  hut  a 
small  portion  of  his  logs.  He  informed  me  that  at  his  various 
cuttings  he  had  above  three  thousand  logs,  which  had  cost  above 
$100,000  to  place  in  then  present  position.  In  enterprises  of 
this  kind,  the  law  obliges  foreigners  to  associate  themselves  with 
natives  of  the  state  or  other  Central  American  states,  and  thus 
the  London  house  with  whom  Don  Opolonio  was  connected 
placed  their  capital  against  his  enterprise  and  management  in 
the  interior.  Although  one  of  the  ultra  Servile  or  Conservative 
party,  and  married  to  the  sister  of  the  renowned  General  Guar- 
diola,  Senor  Ocampo  enjoyed  the  confidence  and  respect  of  all 
classes,  irrespective  of  party. 

We  remained  at  Corte  Sara  two  days,  making  short  excur- 
sions into  the  woods,  examining  the  works  and  habits  of  the 
cutters,  and  taking  an  occasional  trip  up  or  down  the  Jalan  in 
the  joitjpans  or  jpijpantes.  A small  stream,  known  as  el  Rio 
Sara  (or  Rio  de  Corte  Sara),  taking  its  rise  toward  the  hacien- 
da of  Quebracha,  flows  to  the  eastward  of  the  corte,  and  empties 
into  the  Jalan  a few  miles  below.  All  the  streams  flowing  into 
the  Jalan  above  Corte  Sara  are  said  to  be  gold-bearing,  increas- 
ing in  richness  as  the  head-waters  are  approached. 

The  gold-washings  of  the  Jalan  are  less  popular  and  not  so 
well  known  as  those  of  the  Guayape.  It  is  at  some  distance 
from  and  midway  between  the  two  centres  of  population,  Danli 
and  Jutecalpa,  and  is  not  resorted  to  as  much  as  are  the  creeks 
and  little  streams  nearer  those  places.  The  gold  of  the  Jalan 
is  inferior  in  quality  to  that  of  the  Guayape,  which  has  become 
famous  throughout  Central  Amerca,  and  denominated  “ el  oro  mas 
apreciable .”  That  of  the  Jalan  occurs  in  thin  scales,  while  that 
of  the  Guayape,  though  mixed  with  this  description  of  gold,  is 
principally  in  minute  rounded  particles,  averaging  the  size  of  a 
radish-seed  or  a small  pin-head.  I did  not  hear  of  any  diggings 
near  Corte  Sara.  The  gold  region  of  the  Guayape  proper  may 
be  included  between  the  latitudes  of  14°  and  15°  N.,  and  the 
longitudes  of  85°  30'  W.  and  86°  30"  W.  This  embraces  a 
territory  sixty  miles  square,  and  containing  3600  square  miles 


NATURAL  PRODUCTIONS. 


355 


of  country.  The  rivers  running  parallel  or  adjacent  to  the  Guay- 
ape  and  their  tributaries  embraced  in  the  above  limits  I include 
as  the  “Guayape  Gold  Region.” 

Among  the  flowering  trees  on  the  banks  of  the  Jalan  I no- 
ticed one  bearing  clusters  of  pale  red  flowers,  with  an  odor  re- 
sembling the  mignonette.  The  tree  was  about  sixteen  feet  in 
height,  with  large,  oblong,  ribbed  leaves.  Some  of  these  flow- 
ers were  gathered  previous  to  the  feast  of  the  Virgin  at  Jute- 
calpa,  and  placed  around  the  altar  and  the  figure  of  the  Virgin. 
A botanical  friend,  from  my  description,  supposes  this  to  be  the 
Red  Plumeria. 

On  this  trip  I noticed  the  silk-cotton-tree  ( ceiba ) of  a larger 
size  than  I had  yet  seen  it,  although  found  throughout  Central 
America.  There  is  also  an  indigenous  silk  growing  wild  among 
the  trees  of  Olancho,  the  production  of  a species  of  silk-worm 
constructing  a large  bag  two  feet  in  depth,  depending  from  trees 
of  the  open  savannas.  At  a distance  the  nest  resembles  a huge, 
closely-matted  cobweb.  The  animal  makes  no  cocoon,  but 
weaves  the  silk  in  layers  and  skeins  around  the  inside  of  the 
nest.  But  one  instance  is  known  of  any  available  use  being 
made  of  the  silk  by  the  natives.  Senor  Jose  Ferrari,  of  Tegu- 
cigalpa, represented  that  in  1844  he  sent  six  pounds  of  the  raw 
material  to  England,  where  it  was  made  into  handkerchiefs,  not 
easily  detected  from  the  common  silk,  of  equal  strength  and  del- 
icate texture.  A profitable  trade  in  this  might  be  established, 
as  it  can  be  had  in  any  required  quantity  simply  for  the  trouble 
and  expense  of  gathering. 

An  old  Mexican  author,  referring  to  the  resources  of  the 
Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  speaks  of  the  wild  silk  as  a valuable 
and  plentiful  production  of  Tabasco  and  Oaxaca,  adding  that, 
at  a stated  season,  the  natives  were  accustomed  to  gather  it  for 
exportation  to  Spain.  The  article,  from  its  description,  is  doubt- 
less identical  with  that  of  Olancho.  There  is  also  a curious 
silk-producing  spider,  called  the  Arana  de  seda , found  in  various 
parts  of  Nicaragua  and  Olancho.  It  is  often  seen  hurrying 
along  the  corridor  with  a load  of  fine  silk  on  its  back,  from  which 
it  trails  numerous  delicate  filaments.  This  insect  is  entirely 
harmless,  so  that  the  Senora  Montealegre  at  Chinandega  allow- 
ed one  to  crawl  leisurely  over  her  hand.  In  Olancho  they  are 


356 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


quite  common.  There  is  also  a spider  in  this  vicinity  known 
as  “ Arana  pica  caballos ,”  or  the  horse-biting  spider,  from  its 
attacking  the  hoofs  of  animals,  causing  them  to  decay,  separate, 
and  fall  off.  Horses  are  often  ruined  in  this  way. 

Instead  of  returning  by  the  hacienda  of  San  Francisco,  we 
turned  to  the  southward  on  leaving  Corte  Sara,  and,  following 
the  valley  of  the  Jalan,  rode  toward  the  hacienda  of  Quebra- 
hacha  (Break-axe),  pronounced  and  generally  written  Quebra- 
cha, and  named  after  a valuable  wood,  famous  for  its  flinty  hard- 
ness. Though  the  distance  up  to  Quebracha  is  not  above  ten 
miles  in  a direct  line,  I think  we  must  have  traveled  nearly 
twice  that  distance  in  avoiding  the  pantanos,  or  swamps  bor- 
dering the  eastern  bank.  An  impenetrable  jungle  forbids  any 
passage  along  the  opposite  side.  Don  Opolonio  promised  me 
some  good  sport  at  the  hacienda,  where  was  a lake,  into  which 
flowed  the  numerous  rivulets  we  were  now  crossing.  Fish  and 
game  were  plenty,  and  though  I had  neglected  to  bring  my  rifle, 
he  knew  from  experience  that  guns  and  fishing-tackle  were  to 
be  obtained  at  Quebracha.  From  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning 
until  late  in  the  afternoon  we  rode  through  alternate  undulating 
savannas  and  black  alluvions,  until  we  reached  a heavy  belt  of 
trees,  through  which  we  discovered  a broad  valley  or  plain,  with 
an  extensive  hacienda  just  beyond  the  woods.  We  set  spurs 
to  our  animals,  and,  emerging  upon  a grassy  slope,  drew  up  at 
the  hacienda. 

The  sound  of  music  and  the  clapping  of  hands,  mingled  with 
loud  and  merry  voices,  showed  that  the  few  inhabitants  were 
engaging  in  a fandango,  an  exhibition  I had  rarely  witnessed  in 
the  country.  As  we  rode  up,  the  applause  had  subsided  and 
the  dance  recommenced.  Our  arrival  causing  no  interruption, 
we  drew  nearer  and  joined  the  spectators,  who  turned  away  for 
an  instant  to  say  “ Adios , senor  /”  to  Don  Opolonio.  It  was 
near  sunset.  Hemmed  in  by  the  woody  heights  to  the  east  and 
west,  the  little  hamlet  was  the  only  evidence  of  civilization  in 
view.  To  the  southward  lay  a beautiful  lake,  a mile  in  length 
by  a few  hundred  yards  wide,  reflecting  the  trees  and  hills 
around.  Horses  arid  cattle,  as  usual,  roamed  over  the  plain, 
and  from  the  woods,  in  which  part  of  the  lake  was  hidden  from 
view,  came  the  distant  notes  of  marsh-birds,  cranes,  and  spoon- 


FANDANGO  AT  QUEBRACHA. 


357 


bills.  The  breeze  came  over 
the  lake,  lapping  with  tiny 
waves  the  beach  below. 

Unscared  by  the  sound 
of  the  rude  guitar  and  the 
accustomed  proximity  of 
the  dancers,  birds  flitted 
about  among  the  trees,  and 
made  themselves  partici- 
pants of  the  scene ; the  cof- 
fee-colored nazareno  espe- 
cially, whose  peculiar  snap- 
ping came  in  at  intervals 
— no  mean  substitute  for 
the  castanets,  unknown  to 
these  primitive  people,  but 
in  Spain  considered  an  es- 
sential accompaniment  to 
the  fandango.  The  dance 
had  long  ago  been  familiar 

SPANISH  DANCE.  , 

to  me  m the  Havana  and 
the  South  American  republics,  and  I was  curious  to  observe 
what  influence  situation,  climate,  and  the  mixture  of  races  might 
have  brought  about  in  an  amusement  so  completely  national. 

The  number  of  dancers,  young  men  and  girls,  was  ten  or 
twelve.  A few  old  people,  children,  and  dogs  sat  at  the  porch 
and  beneath  the  trees.  A slim  and  pretty  muchacha,  with  brill- 
iant eyes,  and  complexion  heightened  under  the  excitement,  was 
for  the  moment  the  leading  heroine  of  this  little  ballet  in  real  life. 
Two  young  men,  the  favored  lover  and  his  aspiring  rival,  with 
“ Djalma”  complexions  and  earnest  faces,  represented  in  varie- 
ties of  attitude  and  movement  the  passions  of  love,  jealousy, 
hope,  and  despair,  met  by  la  coqueta  with  alternate  coldness  and 
approbation,  disdain  or  relenting  tenderness,  ending  in  grand 
finale  with  a whirl  of  intoxicated  joy.  All  the  dancers  in  turn 
took  precedence,  the  others  filling  in  the  minor  details  of  the 
pantomime.  On  the  whole,  if  less  seductive  than  the  more  pol- 
ished movement  of  the  bolero,  the  fandango  of  Olancho  is  quite 
as  vivid  and  agreeable. 


358  EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 

Before  the  dance  was  completed  we  had  been  joined  by  a 
good,  jolly-looking  man  of  some  thirty  years  of  age,  who,  after 
welcoming  us  to  the  hacienda,  familiarly  chid  his  old  acquaint- 
ance, Don  Opolonia,  for  pouncing  thus  unexpectedly  upon  him, 
when  his  larder  was  not  so  bountifully  stocked  as  usual.  He 
had  known  for  several  days  of  my  arrival  at  Jutecalpa,  and  now, 
for  the  first  time,  I learned  that  the  speaker  was  one  of  the  sons 
of  Senor  Garay,  and  that  Quebracha  ranked  among  the  hacien- 
das of  the  old  Croesus. 

Our  appetites  somewhat  sharpened  by  the  ride,  we  were  not 
over-scrupulous  as  to  the  quality  of  the  fare  that  might  be  set 
before  us.  It  was  coarse  enough,  consisting  of  a sloppy  soup, 
in  which  the  ingredients  appeared  to  be  a bucket  of  water,  half 
a dozen  plantains,  and  a large  piece  of  cow.  Don  Gabriel  Ga- 
ray was  no  such  epicure  as  his  glorious  old  father  at  Jutecalpa. 
Before  retiring  for  the  night,  I saw  a couple  of  urchins  slowly 
devouring  something  which  they  pulled  forth  by  the  handful 
from  an  antiquated  stewpan  in  one  corner.  It  was  a mass  of 
baked  meat,  the  odor  of  which,  to  me,  was  uncommonly  savory. 
On  inquiry,  I found  this  to  be  the  flesh  of  an  armadillo,  killed 
in  the  neighborhood  the  day  before.  I was  not  long  in  present- 
ing a third  candidate  for  the  dainty  dish.  The  meat  was  very 
palatable,  and  as  delicate  as  chicken. 

It  is  usual  in  some  parts  of  Olancho,  especially  toward  the 
coast,  to  bake  these  little  cavaliers  whole,  without  separating  the 
flesh  from  the  coat  of  mail  with  which  nature  has  provided  them. 
The  process  is  to  dig  a hole  in  the  earth,  making  a layer  of  heat- 
ed stones  at  the  bottom.  The  animal  is  laid  upon  these,  and 
covered  with  an  “ upper  crust”  of  flat  stones,  over  which  a hot 

fire  is  kindled.  Stuffed 
with  bits  of  fat,  plugged 
with  wedges  of  suet,  like 
an  Italian  beefsteak,  and 
flavored  with  some  aro- 
matic herb,  the  most  fas- 
tidious gourmand  would 
pronounce  it  a faultless 
dish.  The  armadillo  of 
Olancho  is  usually  about 


THE  ARMADILLO. 


WATER-FOWLS. 


359 


twenty  inches  in  length,  of  a dark  brown  color,  and  hurries  pre- 
cipitately out  of  sight  at  the  approach  of  danger.  The  Indians 
frequently  hunt  them  for  food. 

On  the  following  morning  I met  an  old  vaquero  from  Culmi,  a 
town  about  forty-five  miles  to  the  northeast  of  Jutecalpa,  who  oc- 
cupied my  attention  for  an  hour  with  a rapid  and  almost  unintel- 
ligible account  of  the  (lias  antiguos  of  Olancho,  as  transmitted  to 
him  by  his  father,  who  had  died  at  an  advanced  age  some  years 
before.  Standing  on  Table  Mountain,  Carson’s  Flat,  Mormon 
Island,  Bidwell’s  Bar,  or  any  celebrated  gold  locality  of  Califor- 
nia, where  the  proceeds  have  been  reckoned  by  millions,  I should 
have  no  hesitation  in  retailing  the  statements  of  the  old  Olancha- 
no  ; but,  for  obvious  reasons,  I prefer  they  should  remain,  at  least 
for  the  present,  among  my  rough  notes.  The  facts  are  of  suffi- 
cient interest  without  reference  to  the  exaggerated  legends  of  a 
superannuated,  garrulous  Indian. 

Agreeably  to  a promise  made  on  the  preceding  evening,  Don 
Gabriel  furnished  us  with  ammunition  and  two  old  English 
fowling-pieces,  and,  thus  equipped,  we  followed  the  bend  of  the 
lake  in  quest  of  game.  We  had  hardly  entered  the  underbrush 
when  a beautiful  bird,  which  I believe  to  have  been  a toucan, 
called  here  pica  de  navaga , or  razor-bill,  flew  heavily  up,  and, 
immediately  alighting,  ran  with  the  speed  of  a water-hen  into  the 
reeds.  The  toucan  of  Olancho  (also  called  the  felis)  has  a sharp 
bill,  with  which  he  snaps  up  marsh  insects  and  worms.  The 
motions  of  this  gaudy  gentleman  were  too  quick  for  us,  and  nei- 
ther got  a shot  at  him. 

We  pushed  on,  however,  and,  as  we  separated  to  approach 
from  two  points  a flock  of  aquatic  birds  navigating  the  upper 
part  of  the  lake,  Don  Opolonio  put  me  on  my  guard  against  la- 
gatos , as  the  alligator  is  here  called.  I kept  my  eyes  open  for 
them,  but,  although  the  reeds  were  sometimes  portentously  agi- 
tated, I got  no  ocular  demonstration  of  their  presence.  In  the 
upper  part  of  this  lake,  the  tapir,  or  dante,  as  it  is  here  called, 
is  said  to  have  been  seen.  This  beast  I often  heard  described, 
and  should  judge  him  to  be  a formidable  animal.  He  is  said  to 
break  his  way  through  the  heaviest  jungle  when  pursued,  never 
shows  fight,  is  quite  harmless,  and  affects  shady,  secluded  places. 
On  the  lower  Guayape  I was  shown  the  path  of  a tapir,  through 


360 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


which  the  animal  was  wont  to  pass  when  going  to  drink  ; hut, 
in  all  my  peregrinations  through  Central  America,  it  was  not  my 
good  fortune  to  meet  with  one,  though  I took  special  pains  to 
come  in  their  way. 


LAKE  OF  QUEBBAOHA. 


We  made  the  circuit  of  the  lake,  and  met  on  the  western  side 
without  seeing  any  thing  worthy  a shot,  hut  as  we  were  prepar- 
ing to  return  the  hevy  of  water-fowl  reappeared  from  behind  a 
clump  of  reeds,  and  into  their  midst  we  both  poured  the  contents 
of  our  muskets.  Four  of  the  aquatic  party  remained  struggling 
on  the  water.  The  two  which  we  succeeded  in  obtaining  were 
specimens  of  the  beautiful  blue-winged  teal,  or  mountain  duck 
of  the  North.  I had  often  noted  them  in  the  air,  and  descend- 
ing the  Salto  Mountains  had  raised  a flock  of  them  from  a 
marshy  meadow  toward  the  foot-hills.  The  male  is  of  brilliant 
plumage,  wings  black,  white,  and  changeable  green,  a trifle 
smaller  than  the  Northern  bird,  and  wearing  a tuft  of  black 
feathers  upon  the  head,  which  can  be  elevated  or  depressed  at 
pleasure.  The  legs  are  yellow,  and  in  flying  produce  a singu- 
lar creaking  noise,  as  if  some  miniature  machinery  in  them  need- 
ed oiling. 

The  wild  turkey  ( pava ) may  often  be  seen  in  Olancho  along 


WILD  BIRDS  OF  OLANCHO. 


361 


the  hill  slopes,  particularly  near  the  brooks,  where  they  seek  a 
retreat  during  the  heat  of  noonday.  The  sportsman  exploring 
his  way  through  the  thicket  is  sometimes  startled  with  their 
heavy  whirr  ; or  should  he  proceed  cautiously,  he  will,  perhaps, 
see  the  male,  with  outstretched  neck  and  curious  eye,  watching 
his  motions  from  some  lofty  limb.  He  is  somewhat  heavier  than 
our  domestic  turkey ; is  of  a glossy  black,  with  a becoming  top- 
knot  placed  jauntily  on  his  head.  This  ornament  forms  a comb 
like  that  of  the  rooster,  but  differs  in  respect  to  material,  being 
composed  of  a dozen  black  tufted  feathers,  two  inches  high,  and 
prettily  tipped  with  yellow.  He  is  often  domesticated,  and  in 
this  state  is  sometimes  known  as  the  pajuil.  The  curassow, 
quail,  rice-bird,  swallow,  aldeano  or  yellow-tail  (famous  for  their 
villages  of  hanging  nests) ; blue,  white,  and  gray  heron ; chorcha 
(not  the  woodcock,  as  the  name  implies,  but  a small,  yellow- 
breasted, black-winged  songster,  about  the  size  of  a thrush,  and 
heard  only  at  morning  and  evening),  ibis,  and  two  birds  of  the 
order  Gallince  of  Linnasus,  described  by  Henderson  as  frequent- 
ing the  colony  of  Balize,  where  they  are  known  respectively 
as  the  crax  and  the  quam  ( Penelope  Cristata) — these  are  all 
found  in  the  lowlands  and  along  the  river  bottoms  of  Olaneho. 
The  male  of  the  crax,  by  a reversion  of  the  usual  order  of  Na- 
ture, is  much  smaller  and  less  gaudily  feathered  than  the  fe- 
male, who  steps  haughtily  among  the  dried  heather,  displaying 
a brilliant  chocolate  plumage,  with  variegated  spots  of  black 
and  white  on  her  neck  and  pinions.  The  dove,  wood-pigeon, 
and  several  other  birds  already  mentioned  are  common  to  near- 
ly every  part  of  Central  America. 

There  is  also  an  animal  resembling  a ground-hog,  called  the 
tapiscuente , covered  with  fine  brown  hair,  and  of  the  size  of  a 
gray  squirrel.  This  little  fellow  creates  sad  havoc  among  the 
yuca  and  frijole  fields,  where  he  burrows  like  the  gopher  of  Cali- 
fornia, making  horizontal  excavations  extending  many  rods,  with 
here  and  there  an  air-hole,  from  which  his  comical  snout  and 
two  watchful  eyes  may  sometimes  be  seen,  but  dodging  out  of 
sight  at  the  slightest  noise.  The  tapiscuente  frequents  Que- 
bracha,  where  he  has  established  no  enviable  reputation.  With 
him  keep  company  the  armadillo  (the  three,  eight,  and  nine  band- 
ed), the  gibeonite  (cavia  paea  ?),  a little  leaping  animal  between 


362 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  squirrel  and  Guinea-pig, 
and  often  confounded  with 
the  Indian  cony  or  agouti ; 
j the  curious  ichneumon,  the 
opossum,  raccoon,  porcupine, 
red  squirrel,  and  ant-eater. 
These  animals  are  more  or 
less  abundant  in  all  the  low  country  of  Honduras,  and  probably 
are  found  from  on  the  Atlantic  coast  from  Panama  to  Guatemala. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Fishing  at  Quebracha. — Plants  and  Flowers. — Cayamuela. — Cinnamon-tree. — 
Lobelia. — Sassafras. — Wild  Indigo. — Sarsaparilla. — Manner  of  Collecting. — 
Flaxseed. — Plans  for  the  Future. — A Trip  to  Palo  Verde. — Silver  and  Copper 
Mines.  — Marble.  — Loadstone. — Cinnabar.  — Preparations  for  Catacamas. — 
Mountains  of  Jutequile. — Solitude. — A Trout  Stream. — India-rubber-tree. — 
Trade. — The  Jippa. — Ornithological  Music. — Clarionet-bird. — Telica. — Con- 
ception Flower. — San  Roque. — Mules  and  Horses. — Breaking  a Colt. — Palms. 
— Vino  de  Coyol. — Hacienda  of  Herradura. — Gold  Legends. — Gold  Net-sink- 
ers and  Horseshoes.  — A curious  Will. — “The  good  old  Colony  Times.” — 
Olancho  Viejo. — Separation  of  the  Party. — El  Boqueron. 

We  passed  three  days  at  Quebracha  enjoying  the  hospitality 
of  Don  Gabriel,  and  during  that  time  I was  initiated  into  the 
mysteries  of  hunting  and  fishing.  The  lake  abounds  in  a very 
palatable  little  fish,  resembling  the  dace  of  New  England,  and  a 
good-sized  variety  of  trout,  known  here  as  the  guapote.  They 
are  easily  taken  with  hook  and  line,  biting  eagerly  at  worms  or 
insects.  As  for  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  I at  last  gave  over  at- 
tempting to  note  their  variety.  Amid  such  a profusion,  only  the 
patience  and  the  knowledge  of  a professed  botanist  could  hope 
to  distinguish  or  appreciate  them.  “Ah  se,  senor ,”  was  almost 
invariably  the  answer  to  my  inquiries,  or,  with  a careless  shrug, 
“ Quien  sabe  f”  (who  knows  ?).  At  any  moment  I might  be 
crushing  heedlessly  some  inestimable  medicinal  shrub  or  plant, 
or  brushing  past  a tree  whose  precious  products,  properly  col- 
lected or  prepared,  would  well  repay  the  trouble  of  obtaining,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  pleasure  in  thus  ferreting  out  of  Nature’s 
wildest  garden  treasures  of  botany  or  gems  of  the  floral  kingdom. 


MEDICINAL  PLANTS. 


363 


Don  Gabriel  described  a plant  called  Cayamuela  (or  teeth- 
fall-out),  common  in  Olancho,  possessing  the  singular  quality 
of  salivation,  whence  the  name.  I obtained  a written  descrip- 
tion, which  represents  it  as  a pliant,  juicy  stalk,  growing  to  the 
height  of  three  feet,  supporting  a single  pale  yellow  flower  the 
size  of  a common  lily,  which  blooms  from  March  until  May. 
The  odor  of  the  flower,  if  inhaled,  swells  the  face ; and  the 
juice  of  the  stalk  or  the  leaves  of  the  flower,  if  applied  to  them, 
will  sensibly  loosen  the  teeth.  Cattle  instinctively  avoid  it,  and 
experiments  are  said  to  have  produced  on  dogs  effects  precisely 
similar  to  salivation.  I afterward  learned  that  the  cayamuela  is 
not  unknown  in  Nicaragua. 

Roberto  had  noticed  my  pleasure  in  examining  strange  plants, 
flowers,  and  birds,  and  never  lost  an  opportunity  of  gratifying 
my  taste.  One  day  he  brought  and  laid  in  my  hammock  a 
bundle  of  bark,  which  he  said  could  be  obtained  in  any  desirable 
quantity  in  the  “monte."  It  had  the  shape  and  the  peculiar 
pungent  flavor  of  the  cinnamon,  but  was  somewhat  darker.  He 
called  it  canela , and  promised  to  show  me  the  tree  from  which 
he  had  obtained  it.  I then  remembered  to  have  tasted  this 
bark  in  the  bowl  of  jgoncha  de  aguardiente  made  in  Jutecalpa 
at  the  funcion,  where  it  was  called  cinnamon.  Though  resem- 
bling cinnamon,  I am  not  prepared  to  class  it  as  such.  It  may 
have  been  some  bark  as  yet  unknown. 

There  is  also  here  a species  of  lobelia , to  which  medicinal 
properties  are  ascribed  from  the  fact  that  horses  are  said  to  burst 
after  taking  a small  portion  of  a leaf  into  their  stomach ; it  is 
thus  known  as  lieventa  caballos  (or  horse-burster).  It  is  found 
in  cool,  secluded  places,  where  horses  and  cattle  are  apt  to  stray 
during  the  heat  of  the  day.  The  plant  is  doubtless  a subtle 
poison,  and  to  its  presence  has  been  thought  owing  the  loss  of 
so  many  horses  and  cattle  along  the  Jalan  and  Guay  ape.  Sas- 
safras and  wild  indigo  are  also  found  in  this  vicinity,  as  well  as 
throughout  the  whole  of  Olancho. 

The  sarsaparilla  (vine  of  thorns)  grows  wild  in  nearly  all 
parts  of  Honduras,  but  in  Olancho  it  forms  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant branches  of  Indian  industry,  considerable  quantities 
reaching  Truxillo  from  the  interior,  all  of  which  is  gathered  by 
the  natives,  who,  at  certain  seasons,  make  regular  excursions  in 


364 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


search  of  it.  The  vine,  which  is  armed  with  small  thorns,  may 
be  easily  distinguished.  When  beyond  the  vicinity  of  trees 
upon  which  to  climb,  it  winds  itself  among  rocks  and  bushes, 
to  which  it  clings  tenaciously.  The  root  extends  some  distance 
into  the  ground,  and  is  of  a grayish-brown  color,  but  sometimes 
found  scarlet  or  red.  Most  of  what  is  collected  is  sold  in  small 
parcels  to  the  dealers  in  the  interior  towns,  who  separate  it  into 
two  qualities.  These  are  made  up  into  bundles  weighing  from 
two  and  a half  to  four  lbs.  each,  the  roots  doubled  into  lengths 
of  a foot,  and  secured  by  fibres  of  the  vine.  These  are  packed 
in  bales  of  from  three  to  five  arrobas,  and  generally  sent  to  the 
nearest  sea-port.  The  medicinal  properties  of  the  sarsaparilla 
are  scarcely  recognized  in  Olancho.  Small  bundles  of  the  root 
may  sometimes  be  seen  for  sale  on  the  Plazas,  but  its  virtues 
are  only  taken  for  granted  through  the  foreign  demand  for  it. 

Flaxseed  is  cultivated  with  great  success,  but  is  also  found 
growing  wild.  It  is  retailed  by  the  women  in  Jutecalpa  by  the 
copper  dollar’s  worth,  and  seems  to  be  used  exclusively  as  a 
medicine. 

On  our  return  to  Jutecalpa,  which  we  reached  by  crossing 
the  Jalan  and  the  Guayape  at  El  Ketiro,  where  I again  met  with 
Senor  Marano,  I found  that  General  Zelaya  had  returned  sud- 
denly to  Lepaguare,  called  thither  by  a new  phase  in  the  seno- 
ra’s  illness.  To  have  gone  any  where  but  to  the  house  of  my 
old  friend  Senor  Garay  would  have  been  to  put  an  unpardonable 
affront  upon  that  dignified  worthy,  and,  accordingly,  back  to  his 
ample  casa  we  turned,  Don  Opolonio  taking  leave  of  me  at  the 
door,  and  trotting  away  to  his  own  residence. 

The  old  gentleman,  after  hearing  my  adventures  with  great 
apparent  pleasure,  assured  me  that  thirty  years  ago  Quebracha 
was  a famous  sporting-place,  where  every  summer  he  had  been 
wont  to  repair  with  a few  companions,  erect  pavilions  on  the 
banks  of  the  lake,  and  indulge  to  satiety  his  favorite  pastimes 
of  shooting  and  fishing.  He  had  not  been  there  for  many  years, 
and  seemed  delighted  with  my  favorable  account  of  it.  This 
was  another  place  he  promised  to  give  me  if  I would  return  with 
a colony.  When  I asked  him  to  draw  up  a contract  to  that  ef- 
fect, he  answered, 

“ No,  no,  hi  jo  ; you  Americans  are  too  apt,  I hear,  to  flatter 


SILVER  MINE  OF  PALO  VERDE. 


365 


us,  but  never  perform  all  you  promise.  Come  back  with  an  in- 
dustrious colony,  and  if  I am  yet  alive,  you  shall  want  neither 
for  lands,  nor  documents  confirming  them  to  you.” 

“But,” I said,  “if  you  draw  up  conditional  writings  -with  me 
now,  it  will  be  all  the  easier  to  induce  the  good  and  industrious 
people  you  speak  of  to  come  to  Olancho.”  The  old  man  only 
repeated  his  frequent  expression, 

“ Let  me  see  Olancho  once  more  prosperous  before  I die,  and 
I shall  follow  my  fathers  contented  and  happy.” 

Finding  that,  during  the  illness  of  the  senora,  there  would  be 
no  probability  of  my  securing  the  attention  of  the  general  at 
Lepaguare,  I resolved  to  remain  a few  days  at  Jutecalpa  to  make 
preparations  for  the  trip,  and  then,  with  the  padre,  who  had  sev- 
eral times  proposed  the  journey,  start  for  the  famous  Indian 
town  of  Catacamas,  situated  about  thirty-five  miles  northeast  of 
Jutecalpa,  though,  by  the  route  we  intended  to  take,  not  much 
less  than  twice  that  distance. 

While  the  padre  was  concluding  his  arrangements,  I made 
several  short  excursions  toward  the  small  hamlets  around  Jute- 
calpa. Don  Sebastian  Ayala,  jefe  politico  or  prefect  of  the  de- 
partment, desired  me  to  accompany  him  to  the  silver  mine  of 
Palo  Verde,  about  ten  miles  west.  The  senor  had  once  been  an 
empresario , and  professed  to  have  a thorough  understanding  of 
the  mineral  capabilities  of  Olancho.  Leaving  the  river  of  Ju- 
tecalpa on  our  left,  we  struck  over  toward  the  great  Valle  Ar- 
riva , or  Upper  Valley,  bounded  on  the.  north  and  east  by  the 
picturesque  mountains  of  Jutequile. 

The  mine,  which  has  been  for  an  indefinite  number  of  years 
abandoned,  is  said  at  one  time  to  have  yielded  such  vast  amounts 
of  silver  that  the  family  owning  it  used  to  send  their  silver  four 
times  a year  to  Truxillo,  whence  it  was  shipped  to  Spain  for  in- 
vestment. I obtained  specimens  of  ore  from  this  place,  contain- 
ing evidences  of  virgin  silver.  Senor  Francisco  Verde  after- 
ward gave  me  three  specimens  of  ore,  found  at  this  place,  at  Yo- 
con,  fifty  miles  northwest  of  Jutecalpa,  and  at  Junquilla,  be- 
tween Jutecalpa  and  the  trading  town  of  Jano.  At  Junquilla 
there  have  also  been  found  specimens  of  copper  ore,  said  to  ex- 
ist there  in  such  quantities  as  to  tint  the  earth  green  with  the 
metallic  wealth  beneath.  The  whole,  copper,  ore,  and  stones, 


366 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


contain  gold.  Senor  Verde  affirmed  that  “the  entire  country 
around  Yocon  is  impregnated  with  silver,  and  that  scarcely  a 
stone  can  he  picked  up  in  any  direction  but  has  some  proportion 
of  silver.”  Near  Quebracha  there  is  also  a silver  mine,  but  I 
had  no  means  of  ascertaining  its  resources.  I proposed  to  visit, 
with  my  informants,  the  various  localities  designated ; but,  with 
their  want  of  punctuality  and  the  impossibility  of  my  keeping 
every  appointment,  I was  obliged  to  take  the  statements  of  my 
entertainers  cum  grano  salis. 

Doubtless  the  statements  are  greatly  exaggerated,  as  are  prob- 
ably all  those  brought  to  my  notice  respecting  the  gold  placers ; 
"but,  after  clearing  them  of  the  haze  of  old  legends  and  the  nat- 
ural tendency  to  enlarge  noticeable  throughout  Central  America, 
there  remains  enough  of  a strictly  reliable  nature  to  entitle  Olan- 
cho  to  a prominence  among  mineral  regions  second  only  to  Cali- 
fornia and  Australia. 

The  value  of  the  silver  mines  of  Olancho  I am  unable  to  state 
with  any  degree  of  certainty,  as  all  my  accounts  are  from  hear- 
say ; but  I am  convinced  that  they  are  well  worthy  the  attention 
of  capitalists,  and  may  be  made  to  yield  remunerative  returns. 

Of  the  copper  mines  I can  speak  with  more  confidence,  as 
they  occur  in  all  parts  of  Central  Olancho,  and  have  been  open- 
ly worked  for  a century.  Those  in  the  valley  of  Ulua,  north- 
west of  Lepaguare,  have  produced  immense  sums.  As  early  as 
1712,  mule-trains  of  copper  were  sent  from  Jutecalpa  to  Tegu- 
cigalpa, where  the  ore  and  metal  were  smelted  “for  the  gold  con- 
tained in  them”  Near  Yocon,  pieces  of  pure  copper,  like  that 
of  Lake  Superior,  are  found,  in  which  the  percentage  of  gold  is 
remarkably  large. 

There  are  also  mines  of  jasper  near  the  town  of  Silca,  or  a 
species  of  yellow,  brown,  and  green  quartz,  called  jasjoe  by  the 
natives,  and  which  I am  quite  willing  to  believe  is  the  real  stone 
of  that  name.  I saw  no  specimens  of  it,  but  heard  it  very  fre- 
quently mentioned  when  conversing  with  the  natives  on  the 
natural  resources  of  Olancho.  Blue  and  white  marble  of  a very 
fine  quality  exists  in  the  mountains  toward  Yoro,  in  the  depart- 
ment of  that  name.  These  quarries  have  never  been  worked, 
and  probably  will  remain  untouched  for  ages,  unless  developed 
under  the  auspices  of  a race  superior  in  activity  and  industry  to 


MINERALS. 


367 


that  now  occupying  Olancho.  At  Lepaguare  there  are  also 
promising  indications  of  beautiful  marble. 

While  at  Jutecalpa  I heard  of  a large  fragment  of  loadstone 
found  in  the  mountains  near  Jano,  where  it  was  stated  that  any 
desirable  amount  of  it  could  be  procured.  This  was  said  to 
possess  the  somewhat  startling  property  of  repulsion  as  well  as 
of  attraction  when  applied  to  steel ; the  former  power  emanating 
from  one  side,  and  the  latter  from  the  other.  A needle  suspend- 
ed by  a thread  in  a glass  of  water  approached  or  retreated  as  the 
loadstone  was  turned  in  the  hand  of  the  operator.  So  many 
persons  attested  to  the  truth  of  this  that  I determined  to  note  it 
for  future  reference. 

Iron  is  said  to  have  been  discovered  in  Olancho,  and  cinnabar 
to  exist  in  several  localities.  I have  every  reason  to  believe 
this  from  the  descriptions  given  in  long  conversations,  during 
which  I took  particular  pains  to  cross-question  my  informants, 
and  the  statements  never  varied.  I am  still  more  inclined  to 
the  belief  from  the  indisputable  authority  of  the  most  scientific 
gentleman  of  Honduras,  Senor  J ose  Maria  Cacho,  late  Minister 
of  Finance  of  the  republic.  In  a letter  addressed  to  me,  dated 
Llanos  de  Santa  Rosa,  February  23d,  1854,  he  requests  a de- 
scription of  the  method  of  working  the  New  Almaden  quicksilver 
mine  in  California,  as  he  had  ascertained  the  locality  of  several 
mines  of  cinnabar  in  the  department  of  Comayagua. 

The  mine  of  Palo  Verde  is  now  filled  up  with  stones  and 
earth.  Trees  of  many  years’  growth  envelop  even  the  ancient 
works,  and  during  the  rainy  season  the  matted  foliage  probably 
hides  the  entire  place  from  view. 

From  what  I could  learn  in  relation  to  the  mineral  wealth  of 
Olancho,  I became  gradually  convinced  that,  with  the  commence- 
ment of  “legitimate”  mining,  such  as  that  now  practiced  in 
California,  the  country  will  send  forth  sums  of  gold  destined  to 
create  an  excitement  equal  to  that  of  any  mining  furore  of  the 
last  ten  years. 

The  Zelayas  assured  me  that  by  the  time  of  my  return  they 
would  be  prepared  to  listen  to  my  proposals.  The  padre  had 
now  completed  his  arrangements,  and,  with  my  oldest  servant 
Victor,  we  took  the  road  for  Catacamas. 

The  horses  were  brought  to  the  door,  and,  leaving  the  court- 


368 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


yard,  we  cantered  out  of  the  town,  receiving  a courteous  salute 
from  Don  Francisco  as  we  passed  his  house.  We  stopped  on 
the  road  to  drink  some  nicely-prepared  chocolate,  and  finally 
turned  toward  the  little  town  of  Telica,  situated  below  the  north- 
ern slope  of  the  Jutequile  mountains. 

Among  the  wild  plants  pointed  out  by  my  observant  compan- 
ion was  the  rubia,  or  Honduras  madder,  and  we  afterward  found 
its  stalks  thrust  across  the  path  in  many  places.  The  Indians 
on  the  Lower  Guayape  sell  this  plant  and  the  xiquilite  for  col- 
oring purposes.  This  madder,  I believe,  is  fully  equal  to  that 
of  Holland  and  New  Zealand,  of  which  not  far  from  the  value 
of  $2,000,000  is  said  to  be  annually  imported  into  the  United 
States.  Endless  quantities  might  be  cultivated  in  Honduras 
at  trifling  expense.  The  root,  a long,  perennial  creeper,  of  a 
deep  red  color,  with  lateral  branches  or  stems,  sometimes  serves 
for  food  for  wild  hogs.  The  leaves  are  of  an  oblong  or  lanceo- 
late shape. 

From  the  plain  we  ascended  the  grassy  slopes  of  the  range, 
and,  reaching  its  summit  at  noon,  entered  a still  pine  wood 
stretching  along  an  extensive  piece  of  table-land,  through  which 
ran  a silent  stream.  Here  we  encamped  for  an  hour,  while  the 
boys  bestirred  themselves  to  prepare  coffee.  The  prospect  from 
these  hills  back  toward  Jutecalpa  was  very  inviting  and  exten- 
sive. Only  the  towers  of  the  church  peered  above  the  mass  of 
trees.  The  padre  had  exhausted  his  topic  of  Catholicism,  and, 
being  of  rather  a luxurious  turn,  he  fastened  his  hammock  be- 
tween two  trees,  from  which  certain  unmistakable  sounds  soon 
indicated  that  he  was  asleep. 

While  Victor  was  below  dipping  up  the  water  for  coffee,  I re- 
clined myself  on  a mossy  rock  forming  one  side  of  a little  basin 
receiving  the  waters  of  the  stream.  It  was  deep,  gravel  bot- 
tomed, and  as  transparent  as  glass.  Motionless  on  the  opposite 
side,  midway  between  the  bottom  and  the  surface,  as  if  sus- 
pended in  the  air,  was  a beautiful  speckled  trout. 

For  some  minutes  I sat  motionless  on  the  rock,  smoking  and 
watching  the  tyrant  of  the  brook.  At  last  his  feathery  fins 
waved  to  and  fro,  and  deliberately  he  glided  toward  my  side  of 
the  pool,  and,  disappearing  in  the  shadow  of  the  rock,  soon 
came  out  in  company  with  a Mrs.  Trout,  and  together  they  made 


SUMMIT  OF  JUTEQUILE. 


369 


the  circuit  of  their  little  dominions.  The  unusual  shadow  at 
that  time  of  day  had  excited  their  suspicions,  and  they  were 
now  holding  counsel  as  to  its  probable  cause.  A slight  move- 
ment of  my  hand  sent  them  darting  into  the  inner  recesses  of 
the  rock,  from  which  they  did  not  again  emerge. 

This  little  incident  recalled  the  loneliness  and  deserted  condi- 
tion of  the  country.  Scarcely  an  object  within  the  extensive 
range  of  our  vision  indicated  industry  or  civilization.  No 
sound  of  man  or  distant  bark  of  dog,  but  utter  silence,  amid 
which  I remembered  the  far-off  scenes  of  busy  life  as  one  recalls 
an  indistinct  dream.  Even  the  usual  signs  of  solitude,  the  sigh- 
ing of  winds  through  the  trees,  the  buzz  of  insects,  or  the  bark 
of  the  squirrel,  were  here  wanting.  A professed  hermit  might 
here  have  found  a congenial  spot.  Roberto  and  his  companion 
dispelled  the  illusion  by  snapping  a dried  stick  as  they  kindled 
the  fire. 

The  padre  awoke  with  the  fragrant  odor  of  the  coffee,  and  we 
pursued  our  journey  toward  the  northeastward.  Conspicuous  as 
we  wound  down  the  narrow  path  appeared  the  odd-looking  ule , 
or  India-rubber-tree  (Siphonia  elastica).  It  is  known  by  its 
round,  smooth  trunk,  protected  by  a light-colored  bark,  and  some- 
times reaches  to  the  height  of  fifty  feet.  The  leaves  form  in  clus- 
ters, three  together,  of  a thin,  delicate  texture  and  ovate  form, 
usually  a foot  in  length,  and  having  the  centre  leaf  a little  longer 
than  the  others.  The  fruit  is  a curious  affair,  somewhat  resem- 
bling the  peach,  and  is  eagerlv  eaten  by  some  animals  and  birds. 
It  is  unpalatable,  and  divided  into  three  lobes,  each  holding  a 
small  black  nut. 

The  trees — here  called  caoutchouc — are  tapped  in  precisely 
the  same  manner  as  the  Vermont  farmer  obtains  the  juice  from 
the  maple.  The  wound  emits  a yellowish,  creamy  liquor  [gum 
elastic ),  which  in  Honduras  is  allowed  to  run  into  holes  in  the 
sand,  forming  a dirty,  flabby  substance,  very  unlike  the  superi- 
or article  brought  from  Para.  A coarse  kind  of  paper  is  also 
obtained  from  the  tree,  made  from  its  bark.  No  practical  use 
of  the  India-rubber  has  ever  been  made  in  the  country  to  my 
knowledge,  but  some  small  and  inferior  lots  have  been  shipped 
to  Boston  by  Senor  Prudot  from  Truxillo,  and  remains  unsold 
in  the  loft  of  Messrs.  Nickerson  at  that  place.  The  article, 

A A 


370 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


properly  cared  for,  could  be  turned  to  profitable  use ; but  there 
yet  lacks  the  requisite  knowledge  and  industry. 

A very  curious  bird  should  also  here  be  mentioned,  as,  in 
passing  a thicket  of  jicoral,  we  heard  its  strange  song.  A riv- 
ulet crossed  the  path,  and  as  we  paused  to  water  the  horses,  our 
attention  was  directed  to  the  music  and  its  feathered  compo- 
ser, who  stood  on  a low  limb  to  the  right  of  the  road.  In  shape 
he  resembles  the  common  wild  pigeon  of  the  Western  United 
States.  His  motions  were  lively  and  graceful  as  he  bridled 
about  his  perch  like  a cock-dove  in  the  cote.  His  color  was  a 
light  brown,  and  the  breast  apparently  saffron  or  orange-colored. 
He  is  found  nowhere  out  of  Olancho  and  Segovia,  where  it  is 
known  as  the  jippa  or  hippah.  The  notes  of  this  bird  are  re- 
peated with  great  distinctness  at  regular  intervals,  and  consti- 
tute nearly  the  scale  from  five  to  seven  notes.  The  song,  which 
is  wonderfully  accurate,  is  delivered  with  force,  and  in  the  ef- 
fort the  bird  dilates  its  throat  to  a remarkable  extent.  Of  its 
habits  I could  obtain  no  particulars  ; and  I should  add  that  this 
was  not  the  first  time  I had  heard  the  peculiar  strain  of  the 
jijpjpa. 

This  may  possibly  be  the  bird  described  by  Byam,  page  158, 
as  the  “ clarionet  bird,”  with  a succession  of  notes  like  the  low- 
er octave  of  a clarionet,  running  down  the  scale  from  the  key- 
note to  the  third,  fifth,  and  octave,  slow,  but  rich  and  powerful. 
These  are  correct  in  the  semi-tones,  and  are  thus  represented 
by  that  author: 


Andante. 




, u n 

nr  11  v j c-z 

j 

He  also  describes  another  bird,  and  gives  the  following  as  an 
illustration  of  his  song,  which  was  so  remarkable  that  he  took 
the  notes  from  a guitar  on  his  return  to  his  forest  cabin  in 
Segovia,  and  wrote  them  down : 


THE  “ JIPPA”  AHD  CLAEIONET-BIRD. 


371 


The  oddity  of  the  last  song  is  its  only  recommendation.  The 
first,  however,  is  doubtless  the  jipjoa,  the  name  of  which  he  does 
not  give.  A number  of  Central  American  travelers  testify  to 
the  existence  of  this  bird,  some  of  whom  have  verbally  assured 
me  they  have  heard  the  notes  in  the  silent  forest,  but  had  never 
been  fortunate  enough  to  get  a sight  of  the  musician.  I am  not 
aware  that  any  ornithologist  has  described  this,  or  several  others 
which  appear  to  be  peculiar  to  Central  America. 

On  reaching  the  foot  of  the  J utequile  range,  we  entered  a lab- 
yrinth of  cattle-paths,  from  which  it  was  difficult  to  select  the 
camino  real.  We  at  last  came  to  a tangled  wild  wood,  and  di- 
rectly lost  our  way.  Pushing  along,  however,  we  beat  through 
a cobweb  of  vines,  stretching  down  like  stalactites  from  the  mossy 
limbs  above.  We  often  bent  to  the  horses’  necks  to  avoid  the 
stubborn  branches  that  every  where  intersected  the  way.  After 
leaping  a number  of  gnarled  trunks,  decayed  limbs,  and  logs,  we 
pushed  onward  in  a better  path,  and  heard  a dog  bark  in  the 
distance.  Following  the  sound,  we  broke  our  way  through  the 
woods  to  the  outskirts  of  the  secluded  little  hamlet  of  Telica. 

The  first  house  was  that  of  la  Senora  Mendez , who,  with  her 
children,  was  squatted  around  a fire  at  their  evening  meal  of 
tortillas , wild  honey,  and  cream.  They  all  sprang  to  their  feet 
as  we  brushed  up,  and  seemed  alarmed  at  our  sudden  appear- 
ance ; but  the  padre,  who  had  cantered  around,  and  now  enter- 
ed the  little  clearing  from  the  opposite  side,  appearing  with  his 
honest  face,  he  was  known  in  an  instant,  and  all  shouted  a noisy 
welcome.  The  door  opened,  and  a cripple  crawled  out  on  all 
fours  to  look  at  us  ; he,  too,  had  his  welcome  for  the  padre,  which 
was  heartily  returned. 

While  conversing  with  the  people,  and  sharing  their  evening 
meal,  I observed  some  magnificent  crimson  flowers,  some  four- 
teen inches  in  circumference,  on  a tree  near  by,  and  asking  the 
cripple  what  it  was  called,  he  replied,  “ the  Conception  flower, 
senor.”  It  receives  its  name  from  the  circumstance  of  its  bloom- 
ing during  the  time  of  the  feast  of  the  Conception.  At  a dis- 
tance, the  tree,  covered  with  these  showy,  shield-like  flowers,  was 
one  of  the  finest  sights  imaginable.  The  odor  was  rather  of- 
fensive. 

We  left  the  house,  and  rode  to  the  little  parochial  residence 


372 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


of  the  padre  of  Telica,  Senor  Fiallos,  who  entertained  us  to  the 
extent  of  his  means  until  morning,  when  we  set  out  for  the  ha- 
cienda of  San  Roque,  about  two  leagues  farther  to  the  northeast. 
San  Roque  is  owned  by  the  wealthy  Bustellos  family,  and  has 
several  thousand  head  of  cattle,  mules,  and  horses.  Seated  near 
a fire  at  the  door  was  a vaquero,  who,  with  a lighted  torch,  was 
singing  from  his  leathern  leggins  hundreds  of  little  white  in- 
sects called  agarrajpatas , attaching  to  them  in  riding  through 
the  bushes.  These  are  smaller  than  the  “tick”  of  the  North, 
but  irritate  the  skin  by  their  bite,  and  are  really  a serious  an- 
noyance at  certain  seasons  in  traveling.  Here  we  seemed  to 
have  got  beyond  the  gold  region.  The  same  legends  and  won- 
derful stories  were  ready  for  the  listener,  but  the  scene  of  the 
ancient  gold  digging  was  laid  toward  the  southwest,  in  the  do- 
minions of  the  Zelayas. 

Some  of  the  finest  mules  in  Olancho  are  found  on  the  hacien- 
das in  this  vicinity.  Those  of  Olancho  generally,  though  too 
soft-hoofed  for  long-continued  mountain  travel,  are  the  best  ani- 
mals produced  in  Central  America.  The  shaggy  little  mount- 
ain mules  are  much  more  enduring  and  hardy,  and  for  that  rea- 
son preferable  to  those  of  the  lowlands. 

There  are  no  statistics  of  the  mules  and  horses  in  Olancho. 
There  are  many  cattle  estates  having  from  three  hundred  to  a 
thousand  head  each,  and  some  which  far  exceed  that  number. 
The  animals  are  usually  small,  slightly  made,  active,  and  capa- 
ble of  great  endurance.  Large  droves  are  annually  sent  to  San 
Salvador  and  Guatemala.  The  value  of  a horse,  taken  ad  libi- 
tum from  the  corral,  is  from  ten  to  fourteen  dollars  ; broken  to  the 
pacing  gait,  they  command  from  forty  to  eighty  dollars.  Mares 
are  seldom  broken  or  mounted.  Mules  are  in  higher  estimation 
than  horses,  owing  to  then-  greater  hardiness  and  value  as  pack 
animals.  The  value  of  a common  mule  is  forty  dollars,  but 
from  two  to  three  hundred  dollars  have  been  refused  for  anda- 
doras  or,  pacers.  Some  of  these  last  are  groomed  after  the  fash- 
ion of  the  country,  and  in  the  rainy  season  kept  under  cover. 

The  method  of  breaking  the  mule  to  the  pace  is  by  connect- 
ing the  two  right  and  the  two  left  feet  by  thongs  of  hide,  which 
force  the  animal  into  an  awkward  movement,  limiting  the  steps 
to  a certain  length,  and  obliging  him  to  lift  the  feet  to  twice  the 


BREAKING  WILD  CATTLE. 


373 


usual  height.  Thus  fettered,  he  is  ridden  an  hour  or  two. 
After  a month’s  tuition,  if  the  process  has  been  commenced  at 
an  early  age,  the  animal  has  acquired  a delightfully  easy  pace, 
here  considered  the  perfection  of  equestrian  motion. 

In  Honduras  the  wealthy  haciendador  aspires  to  the  reputa- 
tion of  being  a thorough  farrier,  preserving  within  the  recesses 
of  some  old  cabinet  a variety  of  rude  veterinary  instruments, 
with  which  he  delights  to  operate  upon  such  animals  as  may  re- 
quire it. 

While  at  San  Eoque,  a manada , with  a number  of  wild  colts 
following  the  mares,  was  driven  into  the  principal  corral  or  pen. 
The  object  was  to  catch  and  break  these  young  animals,  who 
were  pointed  out  by  the  mayor-domo  as  the  crowd  of  horses 
leaped  the  lower  bars,  and  coursed  round  the  inclosure  with  wild 
and  vicious  looks.  The  colts  to  be  broken  first  were  selected, 
and  quickly  secured  with  the  lazo.  From  here  they  were  led 
starting  and  trembling  into  the  patio , wild  as  zebras.  They 
were  thrown  upon  the  ground,  blindfolded,  and  the  ears  tucked 
under  the  frontlet,  to  exclude  sight  and  sound  as  far  as  possible, 
a young  aspirant  for  equestrian  honors  sitting  on  the  head  of 
the  animal  to  prevent  his  struggling.  The  jaquima,  or  head- 
stall,  being  firmly  placed,  the  boy  sprang  away,  when  the  horse, 
with  a terrified  snort,  gained  his  feet;  but,  feeling  the  strain 
of  the  riatta  attached  to  his  nose,  he  darted  blindly  about  the 
yard,  sometimes  dashing  heavily  against  the  fence,  or  suddenly 
leaping  among  the  group  of  spectators  in  the  porch. 

At  last,  exhausted  with  his  efforts,  he  stood  panting  and 
trembling,  when  the  vaguero,  feeling  gently  along  the  extend- 
ed line,  approached,  and  gradually  accustomed  the  animal  to  the 
touch  of  his  hand.  The  operation  of  saddling  now  commenced, 
which  required  the  greatest  caution.  Convulsive  starts  and 
kicks  accompanied  the  operation  until  the  saddle  was  firmly  girt- 
ed, when  one  of  the  boys  sprang  into  it.  Once  there,  and  all  far- 
ther resistance  was  useless.  Fixing  his  bare  feet  firmly«into  the 
stirrups,  the  rider  bent  forward  and  skillfully  twitched  away  the 
blindfold,  when  the  horse,  wrought  to  desperation  with  fright 
and  rage,  dashed  through  the  entrance  and  sped  away  into  the 
plain.  Every  contortion  of  body,  wild  leaps  and  plunges,  seem- 

ed only  to  afford  the  swarthy  little  monkey  the  utmost  delight. 


374 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


His  “ hoo-pah,”  followed  by  a fearless  yell,  mingled  with  the 
savage  snorting  of  the  noble  creature  he  bestrode,  but  neither  he 
nor  the  passive  group  of  spectators  manifested  any  anxiety. 

After  half  an  hour’s  curvetting  the  horse  showed  symptoms 
of  fatigue,  when  his  rider,  getting  him  more  in  hand,  ran  him  at 
full  gallop  in  half  mile  circles  over  the  greensward,  and  only  re- 
turned to  the  house  when  the  animal,  completely  exhausted,  his 
flanks  flaky  with  froth,  had  succumbed  to  the  art  of  the  rider. 
Half  a dozen  such  exercises,  and  the  horse  is  pronounced  aman- 
sado,  or  tamed. 

We  remained  several  days  at  San  Roque,  where  I had  an  op- 
portunity of  noticing  many  of  the  rare  plants  and  trees  I had 
elsewhere  examined.  The  sweet  potato  was  also  growing  here. 
Palms  of  the  most  luxurious  foliage  tower  above  the  plain.  A 
professed  botanist  would  be  required  to  obtain  a correct  list  of 
the  variety  of  palms  of  Central  America.  Besides  those  which 
are  commonly  seen,  there  are  many  that  are  unknown  beyond 
the  secluded  land  that  nurtures  them,  except  by  the  local  name 
given  by  the  ignorant  inhabitants,  or  perhaps  descended  from  the 
aboriginal  Indians.  Its  uses  are  multitudinous.  According  to 
Humboldt  and  Yan  Martens,  the  native  obtains  from  the  nu- 
merous varieties  of  the  palm,  sugar,  flour,  salt,  oil,  wine,  weapons, 
thread,  wax,  utensils,  food,  and  habitations ! The  tree  is  the 
feature  of  the  tropical  landscape,  and  in  Olancho  its  luxuriance 
exceeds,  it  is  said,  all  other  parts  of  Central  America. 

Of  the  above  curious  list  of  productions  of  the  palm,  I often 
tasted  the  wine  obtained  from  the  species  called  the  coyol,  and 
hence  known  in  Honduras  as  the  vino  de  coyol.  The  corrosa 
palm,  bearing  a palatable  nut,  not  unlike  the  pistachio  in  flavor, 
resembles  the  coyol  in  size  and  foliage  ; but  the  former  produces 
no  nut,  while  the  juice  known  as  palm  wine  yielded  by  the  lat- 
ter causes  sickness  and  cutaneous  eruptions. 

The  coyol  is  principally  valued  for  the  delicious  wine,  so  cel- 
ebratedjn  the  tropics  for  its  vinous  sweetness  and  the  quanti- 
ties that  issue  from  a single  tree.  Among  the  Indians  it  is 
customary  to  climb  this  palm,  and,  boring  a small  hole  immedi- 
ately below  the  leaves  at  the  top,  insert  a small  tube  of  a hol- 
lowed reed  or  rolled  leaf,  through  which  the  sap  flows  into  a 
calabash  suspended  at  the  end. 


LA  HERRADURA. 


375 


On  the  haciendas  the  tree  is  hewn  down,  and,  after  being 
shorn  of  its  crown  of  leaves,  is  dragged  to  the  house,  and  an  in- 
cision, perhaps  a foot  square,  made  near  the  end.  This  is  cov- 
ered over,  and  in  a few  days  is  found  filled  with  the  wine  or 
juice  of  the  tree.  After  this,  about  three  quarts  a week  are 
regularly  obtained  from  this  source.  It  has  a white,  wheyey 
appearance  when  new,  and  is  very  refreshing.  After  two  days 
fermentation  takes  place,  when  it  assumes  an  intoxicating  pow- 
er, and  becomes  a pungent,  luscious  beverage.  A tightly-cork- 
ed bottle  of  new  coyol  will  burst  on  the  second  day  after  being 
drawn  from  the  tree.  Most  families  have  their  coyol  near  the 
house.  The  expense  of  cutting  and  preparing  it  does  not  ex- 
ceed a real.  A tree  usually  yields  from  five  to  six  gallons  be- 
fore becoming  exhausted.  It  is  sometimes  mixed  with  wild 
honey,  and  proffered  to  the  visitor  as  a great  delicacy.  Unlike 
the  corrosa  wine,  that  obtained  from  this  palm  is  beneficial  in 
many  diseases,  and  is  considered  particularly  efficacious  in  fe- 
vers. At  San  Roque  we  were  constantly  regaled  with  this  bev- 
erage. 

At  noon  on  the  following  day  we  left  the  hacienda,  and  trav- 
ersing a well-wooded,  undulating  country,  but  suffering  with 
drought,  we  arrived  at  dark  at  the  estate  of  La  Uerradura , or 
the  Horseshoe.  This  estate  differs  little  from  the  principal 
haciendas  of  this  region.  The  buildings  are  small  and  in  bad 
repair.  Some  thirty  persons  reside  here;  and  the  proprietor, 
Don  Ignacion  Meza,  a young  Olanchano,  who  had  just  taken 
to  himself  a wife,  walked  out  to  receive  us,  but  quickened  his 
pace  into  a run  on  recognizing  the  Padre  Buenaventura. 

We  entered  the  house,  and  were  introduced  to  the  senora,  a 
blushing  muchacha , who  welcomed  us  to  the  hacienda  with  cor- 
diality and  no  lack  of  natural  grace.  The  little  Arroyo  de,  los 
Zopilotes  flows  near  the  house,  and  discharges,  it  is  said,  into 
the  Guayape  some  ten  miles  to  the  eastward.  During  part  of 
the  year  it  is  dry. 

Among  the  legends  of  Olancho  is  that  from  which  this  haci- 
enda received  its  name.  As  to  its  truth,  the  reader  must  form 
his  own  opinion.  Don  Ignacion  related  that  in  the  days  of  his 
ancestors  gold  must  have  been  plentier  than  iron,  and  in  proof 
of  its  abundance,  that  a golden  horseshoe  was  found  on  the  es- 


376 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


tate,  “and  consequently,”  said  he,  “it  must  have  been  cheaper 
in  those  days  to  use  gold  than  iron.” 

“ What  became  of  the  horseshoe,  senor  ?”  said  I ; “ and  why 
is  this  the  only  one  that  was  found  ? It  seems  to  me  that  more 
than  one  horse  must  have  cast  a shoe.” 

“ Ah ! those  profligate  ancestors  of  ours  probably  had  the 
shoes  melted  down  into  coin  after  the  destruction  of  Olancho 
Viego.  But  this  is  not  all.  You  know  gold  is  very  heavy.” 

“ Yes,  senor ; but  what  of  that  ?” 

“ Why,  in  the  early  days  of  Olancho,  the  fishermen  had  nug- 
gets of  gold  to  sink  their  cast-nets  in  the  river.  The  pieces 
have  been  found  in  the  bed  of  the  river  with  holes  in  them, 
made  for  the  purpose  of  fastening  them  to  the  nets.” 

“ Where  were  these  pieces  found,  senor  ?” 

“ Oh,  at  Aleman , el  Murcielago , and  other  places  on  the  up- 
per river,  near  the  estates  of  the  Zelayas.” 

The  padre  corroborated  this  statement,  and  said  he  well  re- 
membered when  there  were  stories  current  of  such  discoveries. 
Fearful  of  putting  a stop  to  these  details  by  expressing  a doubt, 
I continued, 

“What  else  do  you  remember,  Don  Ignacion,  of  the  old 
chronicles  ?” 

“ You  have  heard  of  the  will  of  Senora , at  Manto  ?” 

I had  heard  of  this  document  at  Jutecalpa,  but  desired  my 
host  to  repeat  the  narration,  which  was  in  substance  as  follows : 
“More  than  two  hundred  years  ago  the  gold  was  first  dis- 
covered in  Olancho,  and  every  body  had  as  much  as  he  could 
take  care  of.  It  was  so  plenty  that  with  a stick  one  could  go 
and  dig  out  a pound  in  a day.” 

“ A pound,  senor!”  said  I,  incredulously. 

“Yes,  senor;  and  more  than  a pound — more  than  a pound. 
The  ancestor  of  Senor  Ayala,  at  Jutecalpa,  had  at  one  time 
fifty  pounds  of  gold  in  his  house,  which  he  obtained  of  the  In- 
dians by  trading  with  them.” 

“ It  is  true,  Don  Guillermo,”  added  the  padre.  “ He  was  one 
of  our  richest  men.  But  that  was  not  surprising.  If  you  will 
look  into  the  writings  of  the  old  Spanish  authors,  you  will  read 
of  the  celebrated  gold  mountains  of  St.  Andres,  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  Comayagua;  there  they  found  equal  quantities.” 


LEGENDS  OF  THE  GOLDEN  AGE. 


377 


“ Well,”  continued  Don  Ignacion,  “in  those  days,  seiior,  there 
was  too  much  gold.  Ship-loads — millions — went  to  Spain  to 
swell  the  king’s  treasury ; he  had  a fifth  of  all  that  was  dug. 
In  those  days  an  old  woman  who  had  not  been  long  residing  in 
Olancho  died,  and  left  by  her  will  seven  head  of  cattle,  and  five 
horses,  and  half  a celemine  (half  a peck)  of  chispas , nuggets, 
and  dust  of  gold,  but  with  the  condition  that,  though  the  gold 
could  be  disposed  of  as  pleased  the  heirs,  the  cattle  and  horses 
must  be  kept  in  the  family.” 

“ And  why  was  this  ?” 

“ Simply  because,  in  those  days,  the  raising  of  cattle  had  only 
commenced  ; cattle  were  scarce  and  valuable,  but  gold — any 
body  could  get  it  that  had  a mind  to  dig  for  it.” 

“ But  what  about  Olancho  Viejo,  senor,  that  I heard  you  just 
now  mention  ?” 

Here  Padre  Buenaventura  assumed  the  thread  of  discourse, 
and  said, 

“ You  have  heard  me  speak  of  that  doomed  city  before  now, 
my  friend.  It  is  a subject  that  the  Olanchanos  are  not  fond 
of  discussing ; but  I shall  tell  you,  nevertheless,  that  it  was 
God’s  judgment  that  destroyed  it,  to  punish  a wicked  and  sac- 
rilegious people.” 

It  was  evident  that  the  padre  was  not  desirous  of  speaking 
about  Olancho  Viejo  in  the  presence  of  our  host ; but  I had  al- 
ready heard  enough  at  Jutecalpa  to  excite  my  curiosity,  and  I 
had  made  up  my  mind  to  visit  the  ruins  on  our  route. 

The  will  or  testament  above  referred  to  is  said  to  be  deposit- 
ed in  the  old  parochial  records  in  the  town  of  Manto,  about  forty 
miles  from  Jutecalpa,  and  formerly  the  capital  of  the  depart- 
ment after  the  destruction  of  Olancho  Viejo.  Jutecalpa  event- 
ually superseded  it,  owing  to  its  more  favorable  location. 

Early  on  the  following  morning  Don  Ignacion  had  prepared 
for  us  a palatable  breakfast,  and  after  repeated  “actios,”  and  in- 
junctions to  pass  the  night  there  again,  he  answered  with  a low 
bow  my  salutation  to  la  Nina  Benita,  and  our  little  cavalcade 
swept  rapidly  away  from  the  hacienda. 

At  a distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  out  of  our  path  stood 
the  range  of  mountains,  the  loftiest  peak  of  which,  known  as  the 
Boqueron,  or  Great  Mouth,  had,  according  to  tradition,  opened 


378 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


and  destroyed  the  ancient  capital.  A huge  rent,  resembling  the 
place  of  a land-slide,  was  visible,  and  where  an  opening  in  the 
dense  forest  permitted,  could  be  seen  immense  rocks,  tumbled 
about  in  dire  confusion  as  by  some  great  convulsion  of  Nature. 
The  mystery  which  had  always  attached  to  the  place,  and  the 
superstition  of  the  natives  as  to  the  probable  cause  of  its  de- 
struction, awakened  my  curiosity  as  we  approached ; and,  for 
the  first  time,  I intimated  to  the  padre  my  intention  of  visiting 
Olancho  Yiejo. 

“It  is  a place  shunned  by  the  virtuous  and  well-disposed,  my 
friend,”  said  he,  “ and  I should  be  unwilling  to  incur  the  fate 
of  numerous  persons  who  are  said  to  have  perished  by  a similar 
exhibition  of  ill-judged  curiosity.  Let  me  advise,  hijo , that  we 
keep  on  direct  to  Catacamas,  and  not  trouble  our  heads  about 
that  accursed  place.  Besides,  the  servants  will  not  accompany 
you  on  any  consideration.” 

All  my  entreaties  were  in  vain ; and,  as  we  had  now  arrived 
at  a point  where  to  proceed  toward  the  eastward  would  increase 
our  distance  from  the  ruins,  I stopped  my  horse  and  again  beg- 
ged the  padre  to  accompany  me  ; but,  either  from  superstition, 
or  a disinclination  to  diverge  from  the  path,  he  absolutely  re- 
fused. Finding  I was  bent  on  going,  he  assured  Victor  that 
there  was  no  danger,  and  that  he  must  make  the  trip  with  me. 
Encouraged  by  this,  my  boy  reluctantly  prepared  for  the  trip. 

“ Meantime,”  said  the  padre,  “ I will  continue  on  to  El  Real, 
which  is  on  a plain  path  from  here  distant  about  twenty  miles 
by  the  windings,  and  you  shall  follow  me  there  to-morrow. 
The  hacienda  of  Penuare  is  but  a few  miles  on  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  hills,  and  you  will  easily  find  it  by  the  cattle-paths. 
Since  you  are  determined  to  see  the  ruins,  note  every  thing  of 
importance,  and  let  me  know.  Adios , amigo  /”  and  the  padre 
wheeled  his  horse  toward  the  road  to  El  Real,  and,  with  his  serv- 
ant, was  soon  out  of  sight. 


THE  STORY  OF  ANCIENT  OLANCHO. 


379 


CHAPTER  XXL 

The  Legend  of  Olancho  Viejo. — La  Corona  de  Cuero. — A Golden  Statue. — De- 
struction of  the  Town. — Desolation. — Appearance  of  the  Ruins. — Hacienda  of 
Penuare. — Chichilaca. — Bees. — Honey. — El  Real. — Padre  Morillo. — Skeleton 
Cattle. — An  Olanchano  at  Home. — A Touch  of  the  Calentura. — La  Higadera. — 
English  Enterprises. — A Marriage  Story. — Alligators. — The  Road  to  Cataca- 
mas. — Scene  at  Sunrise. — Adventure  with  a Cougar. — The  Ferine  Animals  of 
Olancho. — Catacamas. — Appearance  of  the  Town. — Trade. — Indian  Inhabit- 
ants.— A Ride  to  the  Guayape. — A Macaw  Convention. — Feather  Robes. — 
Scene  on  the  River. — Santa  Clara. — Deer  Stalking. — Quebrantehuesos. — Veg- 
etable Ivory. — A Death  Scene. 

Victor  packed  my  blankets  on  his  horse,  and  preceded  me  in 
the  path  toward  the  rains.  By  his  account,  obtained  from  oth- 
ers, it  appears  that,  excepting  the  vaqueros,  who  sometimes  ven- 
tured near  in  quest  of  stray  cattle  or  mules,  few  had  had  the  au- 
dacity to  approach  the  site  of  the  old  town  since,  by  some  con- 
vulsion of  nature,  it  was  destroyed.  The  story  he  related  was 
the  same  in  effect  that  I had  before  heard,  and  was  in  accord- 
ance with  the  natural  superstition  of  a secluded  and  primitive 
people  of  the  Catholic  faith. 

The  great  wealth  of  Olancho  in  olden  time  had  centred  at  the 
ancient  town,  which  was  once  a sort  of  local  emporium  of  fash- 
ion and  luxury.  The  owners  of  cattle  estates  resided  there,  and 
collected  immense  treasure  by  mining  operations  on  the  Upper 
Guayape,  and  by  purchasing  gold  of  the  Indians.  The  inhab- 
itants, however,  were  niggardly  ; and,  although  they  had  such 
quantities  of  gold  that  the  women  wore  nuggets  of  it  in  their 
hair,  they  withheld  their  hoards  even  from  the  Church,  and  were 
consequently  stricken  by  Divine  wrath.  In  one  of  the  churches 
a golden  statue  of  the  Virgin  had  been  ordered  by  ecclesiastical 
authority,  but  the  people  were  slow  with  the  necessary  contri- 
butions. The  body  of  the  statue  was  completed,  but  there  be- 
ing an  indifferent  supply  of  gold  for  the  crown,  the  sacred  brows 
were  enriched  with  a “ corona  de  cuerd’’’  (a  crown  of  hide).  The 
padre  of  the  church  protested ; but  these  infatuated  wretches,  un- 


380 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


mindful  of  the  wealth  they  were  enjoying  by  the  special  favor  of 
the  Virgin,  snapped  their  fingers  in  the  face  of  this  holy  man ! 

The  infamous  desecration  of  the  Holy  Mother  was  speedily 
avenged.  While  the  population  were  collected  in  the  church, 
the  mountain  broke  forth  with  terrific  violence,  and  in  an  hour 
the  whole  town  was  destroyed  with  showers  of  rocks,  stones, 
and  ashes.  Many  were  killed,  and  the  remainder  fled  affright- 
ed out  of  the  place.  After  the  destruction,  some  few  ventured 
back,  but  were  seized  with  sudden  sickness  and  died  on  the 
spot.  Those  who  escaped  set  their  faces  to  the  north,  and 
journeyed  to  the  coast  in  search  of  another  site,  carrying  with 
them  the  crown  of  hide,  which  alone  had  been  preserved  from 
the  general  wreck.  They  pitched  upon  what  is  known  as 
Olanchito  (little  or  new  Olancho),  now  the  chief  town  of  the  de- 
partment of  Yoro  after  Truxillo.  Here  they  erected  a church, 
where  may  yet  be  seen  (so  says  the  legend)  the  identical  corona 
de  cuero,  lying  at  the  feet  of  the  figure  of  the  Virgin,  an  emblem 
of  Almighty  wrath,  and  the  manner  in  which  impiety  is  pun- 
ished. 

This  very  Catholic  narration,  however,  does  not  tally  with 
Juarros,  who  names  Diego  de  Alvarado  as  the  founder  of  San 
Joije  de  Olanchito  in  1630.  But  the  purposes  of  the  Church 
were  served,  and,  as  was  the  case  with  some  of  the  old  chroni- 
cles, the  truth  of  history  was  a secondary  consideration  to  the 
advancement  of  the  true  faith. 

Comparing  all  statements,  traditionary  and  others,  I was 
doubtful  whether  Olancho  Viejo  had  been  overwhelmed  by  a vol- 
cano or  by  a land-slide.  But,  though  there  are  no  evidences  of 
volcanic  eruptions  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  Honduras,  I was  in- 
clined to  the  former,  having,  from  the  hills  near  Jutecalpa,  ob- 
served the  mountain  ridge  immediately  overlooking  its  site,  and 
on  clear  days  distinctly  seen  the  chasm,  possibly  an  ancient 
crater,  whence  had  issued  the  eruption. 

Within  a mile  of  the  ruins  we  came  to  a jungle,  broken  with 
deep  pits,  fallen  trees,  and  climbing  parasites,  passing  laborious- 
ly through  which  we  at  length  reached  the  object  of  my  search. 
The  town  could  never  have  been  a large  one,  probably  not  con- 
taining more  than  three  or  four  thousand  inhabitants.  A more 
desolate  spot  could  not  well  be  imagined.  These  were  no  state- 


A RUINED  TOWN. 


381 


OI.ANCIIO  VIEJO. 


ly  or  distinguished  ruins : no  fallen  pillars  were  here ; no  shatter- 
ed statues  or  broken  fragments  of  architectural  design,  no  monu- 
ment of  art  or  luxury.  The  wind  stirred  ominously  among  the 
leaves,  which  seemed  to  whisper  of  musty  legends  and  deeds  of 
the  early  adventurers.  The  atmosphere  of  the  place  was  alto- 
gether wild  and  solemn,  and  well  calculated  to  excite  awe  in 
the  minds  of  the  naturally  superstitious. 

I could  discern  only  occasional  traces  of  adobe  houses  once 
clustering  in  neighborly  fraternity  ; but  the  winds  had  scattered 
far  and  wide  the  very  dust  to  which  they  crumbled.  A few 
square  stones,  resembling  hearth-stones,  suggested  yet  sadder 
thoughts  of  scattered  kindred  and  the  broken  ties  of  home.  A 
scanty  vegetation  had  overgrown  the  desolated  waste.  Victor 
crossed  himself,  and  uttered  his  universal  exclamation,  “ Ca- 
rarnba  /” 

We  fastened  the  animals  to  a tree,  and  penetrated  into  what 
appeared  to  have  been  the  Plaza,  and  a heap  of  crumbled  adobe 
denoted  the  site  of  the  church. 

“ Well,  Victor/’  said  I,  “ here  we  have  the  punishment  of  the 


382 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


sacrilegious  ; but  as  we  are  good  Christians,  we  need  not  fear  at 
this  late  day.” 

“I  don’t  know,  Don  Guillermo,”  he  replied,  “but  I dislike  the 
look  of  things  here  very  much.  Let  us  quit,  and  make  for  the 
house  of  Senor  Ordones  toward  the  river.” 

But  I had  not  yet  satisfied  myself,  and  we  proceeded  cautious- 
ly toward  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  The  scene  increased  in 
strangeness  as  we  advanced.  Here  and  there  grew  still  the  jo- 
coral,  proffering  in  vain  the  domestic  gourd,  or  drinking-cup, 
and  the  taller  guacal  depending  its  giant  calabash,  or  washing- 
tub,  where  the  voice  of  the  lavadera  had  long  been  hushed  to 
silence.  One  lofty  ceiba,  up  which  entwined  the  white  and  red 
bell-flowers  of  the  creeping  laines  or  parasitical  vines,  stood, 
like  a queen,  proud  and  sorrowful,  on  the  field  where  her  race 
had  fallen.  The  few  other  trees,  stunted  and  ugly,  seemed  to 
stare  desolately  at  each  other ; and  upon  one  protruding  leafless 
branch  sat  an  old  monkey,  a wandering  native  of  the  jungle,  a 
traveler  lonely  as  ourselves.  An  expression  of  painful  solici- 
tude wrinkled  his  aged  features  as  he  sat,  alternately  scratching 
himself,  and  regarding  our  movements  with  ludicrous  intensity. 

There  were  no  evidences  of  scoria  or  volcanic  substances,  or, 
if  any  existed,  they  had  become  covered  with  the  loam  formed 
by  the  accumulation  of  leaves  and  the  annual  washings  from 
above.  The  steep  mountain  side  before  us,  up  which  there  ap- 
peared no  path  among  the  matted  thicket,  forbade  our  attempt- 
ing an  ascent  to  the  summit ; but  from  below  there  seemed  to 
have  been  either  a sudden  and  awful  land-slide  (a  conjecture  fa- 
vored by  the  surface  of  bare  rock  down  the  chasm),  or  an  an- 
cient crater  exists  at  the  top.  The  ashes  mentioned  in  the  com- 
monly received  narration  consisted  probably  of  the  dust  raised 
by  the  crushing  to  pieces  of  dried  mud  houses-— adobes. 

How  Olancho  Antigua  was  destroyed  is  a matter  of  conjec- 
ture ; but  that  a thriving  and  well-located  town  once  existed 
there  is  beyond  dispute.  It  is  generally  believed  that  much 
gold  lies  buried  beneath  the  ruins,  but  no  one  is  valorous  enough 
to  seek  it.  Oblivion  has  thrown  her  mantle  over  the  place,  and 
only  exaggerated  monkish  legends  remain  to  tell  of  its  former 
existence. 

The  sun  was  in  the  west  when  we  remounted  and  left  the  for- 


HACIENDA  OF  PENUARE. 


383 


bidding  precincts  of  Olanclio  Viejo.  The  nearest  hacienda  was 
that  of  Penuare,  to  reach  which  we  were  obliged  to  cross  the 
Rio  de  Olancho  (named,  I presume,  after  the  old  city),  and  to 
traverse  some  ten  miles  of  dark  woods,  with  an  uncertain  path, 
and  the  probability  of  passing  the  night  with  the  sky  for  a roof. 
I now  appreciated  Victor’s  prudence  in  packing  the  blankets. 
The  river  of  Olancho,  which  winds  rather  romantically  around 
the  base  of  El  Boqueron , takes  its  rise  toward  Manto,  and  emp- 
ties into  the  Guayape  half  way  between  Catacamas  and  Jute- 
calpa.  We  forded  it  without  difficulty,  and,  entering  the  forest, 
followed  what  appeared  to  be  a cattle-path  until  all  light,  except 
from  the  interstices  in  the  foliage  above,  was  completely  shut 
out. 

Here,  I imagined,  was  a fit  haunt  for  the  prowling  cougar  or 
tiger,  and  after  our  arrival  at  the  hacienda  we  found  that  cattle 
had  been  destroyed  in  these  woods  only  a week  before.  Before 
our  return  we  had  ocular  demonstration  of  the  reality  of  the 
cougar.  It  was  night,  when  the  glimmer  of  a distant  torch  and 
the  bark  of  a dog  showed  that  we  had  followed  the  right  path. 

Penuare  is  owned  by  the  heirs  of  Senor  Jesus  Ordones,  of 
Santa  Maria  del  Beal,  or,  in  shorter  parlance,  El  Beal,  the  shire 
town  or  capital  of  the  municipality  of  that  name.  The  three 
brothers  resided  at  the  hacienda,  and  extended  the  customary 
welcome  to  us.  I was  the  first  American  they  had  ever  seen, 
and  was  regarded  by  them  with  great  interest  and  curiosity. 
Here  we  found  the  Padre  Buenaventura,  who  had  abandoned  his 
idea  of  reaching  El  Beal,  and  was  yielding  to  the  seductions  of 
a cup  of  coffee  and  a cigarro  as  we  arrived. 

After  recounting  our  adventures  at  Olancho  Viejo,  at  the 
mention  of  which  the  brothers  crossed  themselves,  we  entered 
our  hammock,  and  only  awoke  with  the  screaming  of  several 
lusty  game-cocks,  which,  for  protection  against  the  little  gatos 
of  the  surrounding  woods,  were  perched  at  night  on  a roost 
erected  in  one  corner  for  their  use. 

In  the  patio  at  Penuare  was  a curious  domesticated  wild  fowl 
called  chichilaca , or  chicken-nurse,  from  the  use  made  of  it  by 
the  natives  in  the  double  capacity  of  nurse  and  champion  of  the 
chickens.  It  is  said  to  take  better  care  of  the  brood  than  the 
veritable  proprietress  herself,  who  is  often  removed  after  having 


384 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


superintended  the  arduous  process  of  incubation  to  make  room 
for  the  interloping  chichilaca. 

Master  Lionel  Wafer  describes  the  same  bird  in  1699  as  he 
saw  it  at  Darien.  “ It  is  a stately  kind  of  land-bird,  called  by 
the  Indians  Chicaly-Ohicaly.  Its  Noise  is  somewhat  like  a 
Cuckow’s,  but  sharper  and  quicker.  ’Tis  a large  and  long  Bird, 
and  has  a long  Tail,  which  he  carries  upright  like  a Dung-hill 
Cock.  His  Feathers  are  of  great  variety,  of  fine,  lively  colors, 
red,  blue,  etc.”  His  description,  though  written  more  than  a 
century  and  a half  ago,  presents  the  bird  correctly.  The  chi- 
chilaca will  fight  lustily  in  defense  of  his  charge  with  hawks  or 
small  animals. 

The  customary  parials  or  bee-hives  were  swinging  in  the 
porch  of  the  hacienda.  Honey  and  wax  are  among  the  many  val- 
uable products  of  Olancho,  and  in  these  two  articles  the  depart- 
ment exceeds  any  other  section  of  Central  America.  The  hive 
consists  of  a log  of  wood  (generally  a piece  of  the  limb  in  which 
the  swarm  has  located  in  a wild  state).  This  is  hung  up  with 
hide  thongs  under  the  eaves,  and  a small  hole  gives  egress  and 
ingress  to  the  occupants.  Penuare  produces  a large  amount  of 
honey  and  wax,  which  reaches  the  coast  by  various  routes. 
The  honey  is  contained  in  little  bags  two  inches  in  length, 
which  are  ranged  in  rows  along  the  hive.  The  cells  of  comb 
for  the  young  occupy  the  centre. 

Some  idea  may  be  obtained  of  the  extent  to  which  this  busi- 
ness might  be  carried  from  the  fact  that  there  are  known  in 
Olancho  fourteen  distinct  species  of  honey-bee.  The  names  of 
these  are  local,  and  are  as  follows  : El  prieto,  or  black  bee ; el 
bianco,  or  white  bee ; el  aluva  (nearly  the  same) ; el  jimenito, 
el  chichigua  (the  sting  of  which  causes  an  itching  like  that  of 
the  musquito),  el  zopilote , or  buzzard  bee ; el  talnete,  el  suculile, 
el  panta,  el  panal,  or  hive  bee ; el  quema,  el  sunteco  bianco,  el 
sunteco  prieto  (different  species  from  the  first  two  above  men- 
tioned), and  eljoverito,  or  la  iniris.  This  last  deposits  a small 
nest  of  capsules  or  pills,  with  a waxy  covering  like  isinglass. 
These  are  filled  with  a delicious  fluid,  which  is  used  principally 
for  medicinal  purposes.  Liquid  honey  is  found  in  nearly  every 
tienda  in  Olancho,  and  even  in  Tegucigalpa  I paid  but  ten  cents 
a quart  for  it.  The  bees  are  diminutive,  and  mostly  stingless. 


SANTA  MARIA  DEL  REAL. 


385 


swarms  of  them  may  he  seen  every  day,  when  traveling  in  the 
open  country,  hovering  around  some  decayed  tree,  and  but  lit- 
tle trouble  is  necessary  to  bear  the  whole  establishment  to  the 
nearest  hacienda.  One  of  the  proprietors  said  he  had  sold  wax 
and  honey  enough  since  owning  the  estate  to  buy  all  the  drill- 
ing, mantos,  and  articles  of  that  description  required  at  the  ha- 
cienda. 

We  left  Penuare  early  on  the  following  morning,  and  arrived 
at  El  Real  at  noon.  We  had  letters  of  introduction  to  Senor 
Francisco  Meneia,  the  alcalde  primer o,  Senor  Marcelino  Urbino, 
and  Nazario  Yega,  the  latter  the  “syndic”  of  the  town.  We 
proceeded,  however,  directly  to  the  house  of  the  Padre  Morillo, 
an  old  friend  of  Padre  Buenaventura,  where  we  made  ourselves 
as  comfortable  as  many  fleas  and  a low  adobe  roof  and  mud  floor 
would  permit. 

The  town  stands  not  far  from  the  junction  of  the  River  Real 
with  the  Guayape,  which  is  here  a formidable  stream,  capable  of 
bearing  the  largest  river  steamers.  I saw  no  obstructions  to  nav- 
igation in  this  vicinity.  El  Real  contains  some  two  hundred  in- 
habitants, most  of  whom  are  descendants  of  the  Xicaque  Indians, 
mentioned  by  the  Spanish  historians  as  occupying  this  part  of 
Taguzgalpa  at  the  time  of  the  discovery.  The  Poyas  tribe  are 
probably  the  most  numerous  among  these.  This,  as  well  as  the 
other  towns  of  Olancho,  has  its  church,  cabilda,  and  Plaza , the 
whole  under  the  spiritual  guidance  of  the  good  Padre  Morillo. 
It  is  the  nucleus  of  a little  trade  in  deer-skins,  balsams,  sarsa- 
parilla, and  hides.  Several  considerable  Indian  hacendados  re- 
side here. 

Our  host  was  a mixture  of  Indian  and  Spaniard,  and  a fair 
representative  of  the  industrious  agricultural  tribe  of  Poyas. 
He  was  dressed  in  a pair  of  cotton  drilling  drawers  and  a shirt 
of  like  material.  We  lit  our  cigarros,  and  commenced  ex- 
changing the  news.  He  acquiesced  in  the  general  statement 
that  this  was  a year  of  great  scarcity,  and  shrugged  his  shoul- 
ders at  my  hints  about  the  probable  political  turn  of  affairs  for 
the  ensuing  year. 

“We  have  enough  to  do,  senor,  with  herding  our  cattle,  and 
preparing  for  the  rodea  or  drive  to  Guatemala,  without  med- 
dling much  with  politics.  Here  we  are  out  of  election  strifes, 

B B 


386 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


and  hardly  care  to  record  our  votes.  All  is  quiet  with  us”  ( to- 
do  silencio). 

“How  many  cattle,”  I asked,  “go  annually  from  Olancho 
to  Guatemala  ?” 

“ Quien  sabe,  senor?  we  must  send  many  thousands,  how- 
ever ; for,  when  the  great  herds  start  from  the  vicinity  of  Jute- 
calpa,  we  send  up  from  here  and  Catacamas  every  year  two 
thousand  head  hearing  our  marks  ( fiarros ),  and  the  Garays, 
Zelayas,  Bustillos,  Gardelas,  and  other  rich  families,  send  far 
more  than  we.  There  must  be  a hundred  thousand  head  a 
year  going  into  Guatemala,  senor.” 

“ A hundred  thousand  head  !”  I exclaimed ; “ why,  it  seems 
to  me,  senor,  that  you  must  be  mistaken.  At  how  many  head 
do  you  reckon  the  entire  cattle  of  Olancho  ?” 

“ Algunos  milliones,  senor.” 

I saw  that  the  old  man’s  statistical  information  of  the  present 
day  was  scarcely  more  reliable  than  the  legends  of  Olancho’s 
Golden  Age,  and  gave  up  thenceforth  noting  the  numerical  es- 
timates of  the  people. 

It  is  safe,  however,  to  set  down  the  cattle  of  Olancho  alone  at 
above  a hundred  thousand  head,  and  the  annual  number  driven  to 
San  Salvador  and  Guatemala  at  not  less  than  two  or  three  thou- 
sand. The  increase  is  very  great ; but,  owing  to  the  laziness 
of  the  people,  hundreds  of  calves  as  well  as  grown  cattle  are  al- 
lowed to  perish  of  thirst,  or  to  become  mired  in  wading  into  the 
rivers  at  low  stages  of  water  to  drink.  Skeletons  of  cattle  are 
found  along  the  banks  of  the  streams,  where  a few  weeks’  labor 
in  preparing  a road,  to  which  the  animals  would  soon  become 
accustomed,  would  save  large  numbers.  One  of  the  strangest 
of  sights  on  the  banks  of  the  Guayape  is  the  collapsed  and 
shriveled  hides  of  defunct  cattle,  hanging  like  parchment  on  the 
framework  of  bones,  and  a sedate  zojoilote  perched  on  top,  delib- 
erately pluming  himself  in  the  sunshine,  or  croaking  himself  to 
sleep  in  the  silent  moonlit  night.  The  losses  of  the  Bustillos 
family  alone  by  ignorance  and  laziness  amount  to  several  hun- 
dred dollars  annually. 

The  indolent  habits  of  the  Olanchano  have  passed  into  a 
proverb  in  Honduras.  Imagine  a native  reclining  in  a ham- 
mock attached  to  the  rafters  of  the  hut,  through  the  chinks  of 


LUXURIOUS  LIVING. 


387 


SKELETON  CATTLE. 


which  percolate  the  cooling  gales  of  these  paradisiacal  regions. 
From  above,  and  within  reach,  depends  a luscious  bunch  of 
plantains  or  bananas.  He  swings  leisurely  to  and  fro,  watch- 
ing the  curls  of  his  cigarro  wreathing  in  fantastic  figures  be- 
tween his  vision  and  the  blue  mountain  peaks  that  form  the 
green  valley  of  his  birth-place.  To  all  the  great  issues  and 
sounding  events  of  the  noisy  world  beyond  and  abroad,  he  has 
remained  all  his  life  in  blissful  ignorance.  When  appetite  de- 
mands, he  detaches  a plantain,  transfixes  it  upon  a long  stick, 
and,  leaning  out  of  his  luxurious  nest,  deliberately  toasts  it  at 
the  embers  smouldering  near  the  door.  This  simple  operation 
completed  to  his  taste,  Don  Fulano  hauls  the  fruit  into  the 
hammock,  and  discusses  it  stretched  at  full  length  in  his  swing- 
ing  eyrie ! 

This  description  was  given  me  verbatim , nearly  as  above,  by 
a friend  in  Tegucigalpa,  as  an  illustration  of  the  lazy  habits  of 
the  Olanchanos.  “As  lazy  as  an  Olanchano ,”  and  “ Que 


388 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Olanchano!"  when  reprov- 
ing  an  indolent  servant,  are 
current  phrases  in  Hondu- 
ras. But,  as  I have  said, 
the  care  of  their  cattle  ha- 
ciendas preserves  a sort  of 
pastoral  activity,  and  the 
people,  on  the  whole,  are 
rather  inclined  to  industri- 
al pursuits. 

At  El  Beal  I got  a sec- 
ond touch  of  la  calentura, 
from  which  the  lower  plains 
in  this  vicinity  are  not  ex- 
empt. The  symptoms  have 
already  been  described  in 
the  pages  relating  to  Tigre 
Island.  My  servant  Victor  stood  guard  for  two  days,  defend- 
ing me  from  the  assaults  of  several  old  curadoras,  or  female 
doctors,  who  insisted  upon  my  adopting  their  prescriptions,  not- 
withstanding my  inevitable  reputation  as  a medico  grande. 

One  of  the  remedies  for  fevers  and  liver  complaints  in  Olancho 
is  of  so  remarkable  a kind,  that  its  description  here  will  be  read 
as  a curious  entomological  fact.  This  consists  of  a drink  made 
from  the  juice  of  the  sugar-cane,  mixed  with  a powder  obtained 
from  the  dust  of  burnt  insects,  and  known  as  la  higadera,  ow- 
ing to  its  particular  applicability  to  liver  complaints.  The  little 
animal  that  contributes  with  its  life  to  this  beverage  is  repre- 
sented to  be  the  descendant  of  a species  of  grasshopper,  which, 
from  the  several  natural  changes  it  undergoes,  is  called  el  Va- 
riable. In  the  spring  of  the  year,  this  insect,  after  a short- 
lived visit  above  ground,  buries  itself  to  the  depth  of  several 
inches  in  the  earth,  where  it  dies,  after  depositing  a number  of 
eggs  in  a cocoon.  On  the  bursting  of  this,  several  winged 
creatures  appear,  who,  in  turn,  leave  a vast  quantity  of  eggs, 
like  those  of  the  ant,  under  the  bark  of  trees.  From  these 
shortly  issue  countless  small  white  insects,  which  are  gathered 
by  the  natives  and  roasted  alive  for  the  above  purposes.  Of 
the  next  change  in  the  eventful  life  of  the  higadera,  I could  get 


\ 


ENGLISH  ADVENTURERS.  389 

no  definite  description.  The  drink  I tasted  at  El  Real,  and 
found  it  rather  palatable. 

A few  doses  of  quinine  enabled  me  to  issue  again  into  the 
sunlight  and  air,  and  to  use  water  for  washing,  which  all  my 
threats  of  future  vengeance  could  not  induce  my  faithful  Victor 
to  bring  me.  The  two  padres  had  prohibited  him  from  allow- 
ing me  to  commit  suicide  by  touching  cold  water  to  my  face 
while  sick ! 

El  Real  has  its  legends  relating  to  the  days  when  gold  was 
so  plenty  in  Olancho  that  not  to  have  a quantity  stored  away 
was  an  exception  to  the  rule.  These,  however,  are  but  unin- 
teresting variations  on  those  already  alluded  to. 

The  Padre  Morillo  also  referred  to  the  time  within  his  mem- 
ory when  the  Mosquito  king  came  up  the  Patook,  with  several 
Englishmen,  and  attempted  to  assert  his  authority  in  all  the 
towns  along  the  Guayape,  including  Jutecalpa.  The  protector- 
ate at  that  time  (1847)  was  claimed  by  Great  Britain  as  embracing 
the  whole  of  Olancho,  and  two  thirds  of  Nicaragua  and  Costa 
Rica!  Among  those  who  then  had  it  in  view  to  establish  an 
English  colony  at  the  junction  of  the  Guayape  and  Guayambrc 
was  a Mr.  B , who  at  the  time  figured  extensively  in  Jute- 

calpa, to  the  scandal  of  the  Garays  and  Zelayas. 

The  padre,  who  was  an  eye-witness,  related  that  two  of  these 
worthies  were  staying  in  Jutecalpa  in  1847.  One  of  them  laid 
siege  to  the  hand  of  the  Senorita  Teresa,  daughter  of  Senor  Ga- 
ray, under  the  impression  that  the  old  man’s  speedy  death  would 
leave  him  master  of  family  property  which  should  then  be  di- 
vided between  the  two.  The  suit  was  successful.  One  even- 
ing, under  the  inspiring  influence  of  aguardiente , the  lover 
plumed  himself  in  audible  English  on  his  luck,  and  allowed 
certain  dishonorable  plans  with  regard  to  the  bride’s  dower  to 
escape,  which,  unfortunately  for  him,  were  overheard  by  a Ja- 
maica negro,  who  had  suffered  from  the  brutality  of  Mr. . 

The  negro  divulged  the  whole  scheme  to  the  girl,  who  discard- 
ed the  perfidious  suitor.  An  attack  was  made  that  night  by 
the  two  adventurers  upon  the  house  of  old  Senor  Garay.  Fol- 
lowing the  plan  of  the  buccaneers,  they  defied  the  town  half  the 
night,  armed  with  pistols  and  swords.  To  injure  an  English- 
man at  that  time,  whether  in  the  right  or  wrong,  under  the  famous 


390 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


policy  of  Mr.  Chatfield,  was  equivalent  to  subjecting  any  sea- 
port to  bombardment  by  an  English  fleet;  and  though  the  peo- 
ple were  greatly  exasperated,  they  were  restrained  from  killing 
or  wounding  the  brawlers. 

About  midnight  the  commandante  militar,  Don  Francisco 
Zelaya,  arrived  in  town  from  one  of  his  haciendas.  Hearing  of 
the  disturbance,  he  rode  to  the  spot,  and  without  hesitation  dis- 
mounted, and  disarmed  the  blustering  couple  in  the  face  of  their 
threats  and  weapons,  and  placed  them  in  the  cuartel  until  morn- 
ing. The  next  day  they  were  dismissed  from  the  town,  and 
the  pretty  Nina  Teresa  was  married  a few  months  afterward  to 
a gentleman  of  Tegucigalpa,  where  she  is  yet  one  of  the  most 
attractive  ladies.  The  marks  of  the  swords  of  the  assailants 
are  yet  visible  on  the  window-shutters  of  Senor  Garay’s  house. 
This  event  created  great  excitement  in  Jutecalpa,  and  had  its 
weight  in  breaking  up  the  negotiations  for  an  English  colony  at 
the  plain  of  Las  Flores. 

Our  three  days’  visit  at  El  Real  was  quite  sufficient  to  develop 
its  lions,  one  of  which  was  an  enormous  alligator  from  the  Guay- 
ape,  which  was  shot  by  a native  while  in  the  act  of  forcibly  ab- 
ducting an  adventurous  pig  from  the  bank  where  he  was  rooting. 
These  creatures — called  lagatos  in  Olancho — abound  in  the  Guay- 
ape,  from  this  point  down  to  the  ocean.  In  the  Lake  of  Mes- 
cales,  south  of  Catacamas,  they  are  also  found,  and  the  swamps, 
or  lienegas , in  that  vicinity  are  said  to  be  alive  with  them.  The 
one  at  El  Real  is  the  only  alligator  I saw  in  Honduras. 

I was  not  sorry,  on  the  morning  of  the  fourth  day,  after  a cup 
of  coffee  and  the  sleepy  adios  of  my  friends,  to  mount  and  can- 
ter out  of  wretched,  dirty  El  Real.  The  Padre  Buenaventura 
had  accompanied  me  on  the  trip  partly  to  attend  to  some  busi- 
ness matters  there,  and  preferred  to  remain  a day  or  two  longer. 
I was  fearful  of  prolonging  my  journey  beyond  the  time  I had 
proposed  to  meet  General  Zelaya  at  Lepaguare,  and  resolved  to 
start  for  Catacamas  at  once. 

The  route  lies  nearly  east,  and  leads  over  two  or  three  suc- 
cessive ranges  of  high  hills — almost  mountains — the  names  of 
which  I neglected  to  note.  We  set  out  before  dawn,  in  order 
to  pass  the  extensive  plain  bordering  the  Guayape,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  mountains,  before  the  heat  of  midday,  which 


“DAY  ON  THE  MOUNTAIN/ 


391 


here  beats  down  with  an  intensity  almost  equaling  that  of  the 
coast  itself.  Half  an  hour’s  gallop  through  the  silent  glades 
brought  us  to  the  foot-hills  of  the  range,  up  which  we  proceeded 
at  a rapid  walk  for  the  purpose  of  witnessing  the  sunrise,  which 
promised  to  be  a brilliant  one,  from  the  summit. 

The  sun  was  just  gilding  the  eastern  horizon  as  we  reached 
the  plateau  toward  which  we  had  struggled  for  nearly  an  hour. 
The  view  was  an  ocean  of  woods — a vast  plain  intersected  with 
regular  ranges — among  which  twined  the  Guayape  and  its  trib- 
utaries like  silver  threads.  A speck  of  glittering  cloud  hung 
over  the  rim  of  the  mountains,  but  in  a moment  melted  away, 
as  “ day  on  the  mountains  broke  over  the  landscape.” 

The  sky  was  so  clear  that  the  eye  almost  ached  in  searching 
the  blue  vault  for  a cloud  to  relieve  the  monotony.  A cool  air, 
fresh  from  the  slopes  of  Santa  Cruz  del  Oro,  gently  rustled  the 
leaves  near  us ; but  beyond,  all  was  motionless  and  silent.  I 
dismounted,  and  from  a rock  gazed  off  toward  the  rich  lights 
fast  climbing  above  the  hills,  until  the  sun  came  up,  and  pro- 
duced the  magical  effect  which  every  tropical  traveler  will  recall, 
tinting  the  mountains  with  a splendor  no  artist  can  imitate, 
and  imparting  a lifelike  tone  to  the  sea  of  green. 

Before  us  lay  a ravine,  into  which  a small  stream  emptied  its 
gurgling  treasures,  pouring  through  the  self-worn  lip  of  a nat- 
ural water-vase.  A venerable  beard  of  green  and  gray  moss 
depended  from  below,  dripping  with  the  pure  element,  and  wag- 
ging with  the  motion  of  the  torrent  so  as  to  convey  the  idea  of 
a jolly  old  Bacchanalian  indulging  in  a burst  of  hilarious  hu- 
mor, except  that  the  pure  element  he  spurted  from  his  mouth 
scouted  the  simile. 

The  view  was  so  extensive  and  enchanting  that  I had  quite 
lost  myself  in  its  contemplation,  and  was  wondering  whether 
these  great  savannas  would  ever  be  peopled,  when  Victor  ut- 
tered an  exclamation,  and  pointed  to  the  form  of  some  beast  of 
prey  sitting  on  a high  ridge  near  by,  and  who,  as  if  unconscious 
of  the  intruders  on  his  domain,  was,  like  ourselves,  gazing  off 
toward  the  eastward,  and  perhaps  cogitating  upon  the  chances 
for  a morning  meal. 

I leveled  my  rifle,  but  Victor,  in  evident  alarm,  urged  me  not 
to  fire — a piece  of  advice  I afterward  congratulated  myself  upon 


392 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


having  followed.  He  pronounced  it  the  jaguar,  or  lion  of  Hon- 
duras ; and,  hastily  gathering  up  his  blanket,  retreated  down  the 
opposite  slope,  where  the  horses  were  quietly  grazing.  Victor’s 
alarm  was  contagious,  and  I was  preparing  to  follow  him,  when 
the  beast,  after  lapping  his  velvety  coat  a moment,  arose  to  his 
feet,  and,  turning  toward  us,  walked  to  within  twenty  yards 
of  where  we  stood,  and  with  ears  cocked,  and  tail  nervously 
playing  around  his  haunches,  honored  us  with  an  extremely 
aristocratic  stare. 

“ Garamba  /”  muttered  Victor,  “ it  is  the  jaguar,  in  good 
faith ; he  is  taking  an  early  walk;  and  see  ! he  walks  this  way 
again!”  The  animal,  observing  our  retreat  toward  the  horses, 
was  now  moving  leisurely  after  us,  and  at  so  small  a distance 
that  his  displeasure  at  our  presence  'was'plainly  manifested  by 
an  occasional  wrinkling  of  his  lip,  and  the  display  of  a muscular 
system  that  quite  satisfied  my  curiosity  on  such  points. 

Victor  put  both  hands  to  his  mouth  and  uttered  a yell,  caus- 
ing the  animal  for  a moment  to  pause  and  examine  us  more  at- 
tentively. This  interval  we  employed  in  reaching  and  mounting 
our  horses,  who  were  now  staring  at  the  jaguar  with  dilated  nos- 
trils and  ears  erect.  Our  new  acquaintance  uttered  a loud  sound 
between  a snarl  and  a roar,  and,  either  disliking  the  glitter  of 
my  rifle,  or  influenced  by  that  mysterious  instinct  which  some- 
times deters  the  brute  creation  from  an  assault  on  man,  walked 
slowly  away,  and  disappeared  into  a thicket  skirting  the  adjoin- 
ing hill. 

The  jaguar  is  naturally  a coward,  and  is  seldom  seen  except 
in  unfrequented  places,  whence  he  makes  nocturnal  descents 
upon  the  haciendas  to  the  certain  detriment  of  the  cattle-owners. 
Half  a dozen  bullets  are  not  always  enough  to  finish  him. 

One  of  these  animals  was  killed,  a few  years  since,  near  the 
hacienda  of  Uloa,  with  the  reputation  of  having  slaughtered  a 
hundred  cattle  in  his  lifetime.  His  skin  was  suspended  in  the 
sala  of  Senor  Garay,  who  presented  it  to  me  on  leaving  Olancho. 
This,  with  many  other  specimens,  was  stolen  from  my  pack-sad- 
dle in  Nicaragua. 

Victor  attributed  the  fortunate  issue  of  this  adventure  to  his 
invocation  of  his  patron  saint  and  the  Virgin,  who,  he  said,  never 
permitted  the  jaguar  to  destroy  Christianos  or  good  Catholics. 


BEASTS  OF  PREY. 


393 


The  animal  is  provided 
with  an  array  of  most  for- 
midable claws,  used  with 
wonderful  quickness  and 
force.  The  supple  bound 
of  the  jaguar  is  what  con- 
stitutes the  terrific  power 
of  his  assault.  Like  the 
leopard,  he  fastens  himself 
with  a desperate  leap  upon 
the  back  of  his  victim,  and 
one  spring  will  break  the 
spine  of  a cow.  Dunn 
thinks  there  is  little  doubt 
but  that  the  tiger  and  ja- 
guar, bearing  a strong  re- 
semblance to  the  ounce,  are 
the  same  animal  in  Cen- 
tral America.  He  is,  how- 
ever, greatly  mistaken  in 
this  opinion.  The  ounce  is 
a much  smaller  animal.  The  tiger  of  Central  America,  as  is  as- 
serted by  Byam,  who  lived  two  years  in  the  wildest  forests  of  that 
country,  is  the  panther,  and  the  jaguar  is  the  puma,  or  South  and 
Central  American  lion.  Captain  Henderson  divides  the  ferine  ani- 
mals of  Honduras  into  the  felis  onca , or  Brazilian  tiger,  and  the 
felis  discolor,  or  black  tiger.  Mr.  Squier  describes  the  black  ti- 
ger, jaguar  ( felis  onca),  cougar  or  puma,  and  ocelot,  as  four  dis- 
tinct animals.  These,  I believe,  are  the  only  two  authorities  mak- 
ing any  mention  of  the  black  tiger  as  an  inhabitant  of  Honduras. 
“No  animal,”  continues  Byam,  “springs  more  quickly,  and  no 
wild  beast  attacks  men  more  audaciously  than  the  panther  or 
tiger,  but  he  is  free  from  the  peculiarity  or  vice  that  distinguish- 
es the  puma-lion,  and  that  is,  that  he  never  follows  or  dodges  the 
footsteps  of  man.”  He  frequents  the  loneliest  mountains  and 
the  jungles  of  the  Pacific  coast.  Honduras  is  full  of  thrilling 
stories  of  u el  tigre .” 

The  jaguar,  or  puma,  is  a sneaky  fellow,  equally  feline  in  his 
habits,  but  less  courageous  than  the  tiger.  Traveling  through 


INDIAN  LABORER8. 


394 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  lonely  passes,  the  voice  of  this  midnight  prowler  comes  with 
startling  distinctness,  and  admonishes  the  belated  traveler  to 
seek  the  habitations  of  men.  I know  of  no  sound  but  the  howl 
of  the  red  monkey,  or  red-bearded  ape,  as  he  is  sometimes  called, 
that  has  such  a melancholy  effect  on  the  mind  as  the  shrill,  pro- 
longed cry  of  the  jaguar.  The  track  of  this  animal  may  be 
known  by  a little  mound  of  sand  or  earth  behind  where  the  ball 
of  the  foot  has  been  placed.  He  is  smaller  than  the  panther, 
and  not  so  bold,  but  follows  the  trail  of  man  at  sunset,  and  in- 
stances are  recorded  of  persons  being  destroyed  by  them  in  the 
forest.  Byam  describes  the  jaguar’s  cry  as  “what  a person 
might  conceive  to  issue  from  an  enormously  overgrown  tom-cat 
with  several  extra  pairs  of  lungs.” 

A variety  of  tiger-cats,  some  of  them  beautifully  diversified 
with  stripes  and  spots,  abound  in  Olancho.  The  writer  above 
quoted  describes  one  that  he  killed  in  Segovia  as  having  the 
belly  and  ground  of  pale  yellow ; the  back  almost  black,  with  a 
succession  of  black  spots  in  irregular  shapes  from  the  back  to 
the  belly,  but  the  spots  diminishing  beautifully  and  regularly  as 
they  approached  the  stomach.  This  cat  was  about  the  size  of 
a pointer  dog. 

Coyotes  and  small  wolves  are  common,  and  are  indefatigable 
hunters  of  the  deer.  At  times,  in  droves,  they  even  assail  the 
tiger  by  driving  him  into  a tree,  and  regularly  besieging  him 
until,  hunger  compelling  the  larger  beast  to  leap  to  the  ground, 
he  is  torn  into  pieces  after  destroying  a number  of  his  enemies. 

From  the  tiger  to  the  squirrel,  there  is  no  lack  of  game  in 
Olancho ; and  amid  such  a variety,  young  America,  in  future 
generations,  will  find  ample  employment  for  his  rifle,  and  tiger- 
hunts  in  Olancho  may  yet  be  the  theme  for  the  contributor  to 
some  tropical  Knickerbocker  or  Spirit  of  the  Times . 

From  this  adventure  with  the  puma  or  jaguar,  we  pursued  our 
trip  along  the  ridge  of  the  hill,  and,  commencing  the  descent, 
reached  the  plain,  and  followed  a well-beaten  track  for  the  rest 
of  the  way. 

The  Indian  town  of  Catacamas  contains  about  two  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  stands  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river  of  that 
name,  and  not  far  from  its  junction  with  the  Guayape.  It  con- 
tains a church,  almost  a fac  simile  of  that  of  Jutecalpa,  and  a 


CATACAMAS. 


395 


non  and  a forlorn-looking  sentinel.  Some  twelve  soldiers,  under 
command  of  Captain  Pedro  Munoz,  constituted  the  garrison.  I 
bore  a letter  of  introduction  from  Padre  Buenaventura  to  Senor 
Vicente  Salgado,  one  of  the  rejidores  of  the  town,  who  received 
me  in  his  house  near  the  Plaza  with  the  usual  hospitality. 
This  is  the  last  settlement  toward  the  mouth  of  the  Patook 
River.  The  villages  of  Dulcenombre  (sweet  name),  Rio  Tinto, 
and  La  Conquista  are  mere  hamlets,  like  those  already  de- 
scribed. 

The  house  of  Sehor  Salgado,  which  was  the  largest  in  the  town, 
had  been  lately  tiled,  and  was  now  being  carefully  whitewashed. 
We  rode  into  a paved  patio,  and,  dismounting,  we  were  received 
by  a sedate  Indian  woman,  the  wife  of  the  rejidor , who  offered 
me  a repast  of  cheese  and  chocolate,  and  ordered  the  passive 


regular  municipality  government,  of  which  a venerable  Indian, 
Sehor  Vicente  Sanchez,  is  alcalde  primero.  The  houses  are 
mostly  tiled,  and  numbers  of  them  are  substantially  built.  Its 
population  consists  mainly  of  converted  or  civilized  Indians, 
who  have  from  time  immemorial  enjoyed  a local  reputation  as 
industrious,  frugal  citizens.  Occupying  a part  of  one  side  of 
the  Plaza  stood  the  little  cuartel,  with  one  four-pounder  can- 


396 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Victor  about  with  all  the  volubility  of  a Northern  housewife. 
The  evening  was  passed  in  discussing  the  topics  of  the  day 
with  my  host,  who  was  a fair  specimen  of  a nearly  pure-blooded 
Indian.  He  laughed  heartily  at  the  cougar  adventure,  and  said 
that  with  a large  stone  or  club  I might  easily  have  put  the  ani- 
mal to  flight,  a process  which,  as  I observed  to  him,  I should 
prefer  leaving  to  others  to  perform.  The  old  man  offered  me  a 
bed  of  polished  hide  whereon  to  spread  my  maleta , and,  with 
a “ jpasa  buena  la  noche ” and  a low  obeisance,  left  me  to  my 
rest. 

At  daylight  we  took  a stroll  about  the  town,  which  is  consid- 
ered by  the  Indians  as  superior  in  all  respects  to  Jutecalpa.  I 
was  certainly  unprepared  for  a scene  of  so  much  prosperity.  In 
the  market  were  displayed  a variety  of  vegetables  and  fruits, 
and  all  the  trades  necessary  to  the  support  of  the  people  were 
actively  conducted. 

Here  and  there  appeared  one  of  the  less  civilized  members  of 
the  tribes  who  pass  their  time  on  the  great  river  below,  fishing 
or  navigating  the  frail  joipantes  to  the  Caribbean  Sea.  A num- 
ber of  diverging  paths  lead  to  the  Guayape,  striking  it  at  sev- 
eral points,  known  as  embarcaderos , or  landing-places.  Small 
plantations  of  yuca,  maize,  tobacco,  rice,  plantains,  and  beans 
are  scattered  in  profusion  for  several  miles  around  the  town, 
which  forms  the  centre  of  a considerable  traffic. 

There  are  perhaps  six  thousand  inhabitants  in  a circle  of 
twenty  miles  around  Catacamas,  who  obtain  most  of  their  for- 
eign goods  through  Jutecalpa,  but  are  now  establishing  an  in- 
creasing trade  with  the  sea  via  the  Patook.  There  are  but  few 
descendants  of  the  Spaniards  living  here.  The  authorities  are 
mostly  Indians,  asserting  and  apparently  maintaining  a quiet 
superintendence  of  affairs,  partly  after  the  primitive  forms  of  the 
less  civilized  tribes,  but  really  based  on  the  municipality  rules 
of  the  department.  The  people  embraced  Christianity  man}’ 
years  since,  and  have  found  time  to  decorate  the  interior  of 
their  little  church  with  rude  pictures  and  wooden  images  of 
saints. 

A more  peaceable  and  hospitable  race  it  would  be  difficult  to 
imagine.  The  rumor  that  an  Americano  del  Norte  was  in  town 
induced  a number  of  the  most  inquisitive  to  enter  the  house, 


SCENE  ON  THE  GUAYAPE. 


397 


where  I passed  several  hours  swinging  in  the  network  hammock, 
smoking  cigarros,  and  chatting  with  the  simple  natives.  Not 
one  had  the  remotest  idea  of  the  United  States,  except  that  it 
was  “ el  Norte ,”  and  the  people  “ muy  bravo .”  My  rifle  ex- 
cited great  curiosity,  and  some  shots  at  a target  at  their  request 
elicited  shouts  of  approval,  though  the  marksmanship  was  not 
of  the  best.  Very  few  had  ever  before  seen  “ an  American.” 

At  night  the  Padre  Buenaventura  arrived  from  El  Real,  hav- 
ing  concluded  his  business  sooner  than  he  expected.  He  brought 
me  a letter  from  L — — , who  had  remained  at  Jutecalpa,  giving 
me  the  particulars  of  a revolution  in  Yoro,  and  an  invasion  of 
Honduras  by  the  Guatemalans  under  Guardiola.  The  exag- 
gerated rumors  induced  me  to  resign  the  proposed  visit  to  the 
confluence  of  the  Guayape  and  Guayambre. 

On  the  following  morning  we  rode  to  the  river.  A few  hours’ 
canter  over  a heavily-wooded  plain  brought  us  to  the  noble 
stream,  which  there  follows  the  bend  of  a range  of  mountains 
on  the  northern  side.  The  Guayape,  now  augmented  by  the 
waters  of  the  Jalan  and  several  other  tributaries  above,  rolled 
along  to  the  sea  with  the  quiet  majesty  of  a deep,  navigable 
river.  Among  the  dense  foliage  of  an  island  which  here  divides 
it  into  two  channels  were  perched  a multitude  of  parrots,  hold- 
ing noisy  council,  and  not  a whit  disturbed  by  our  sudden  emerg- 
ence from  the  shrubbery  on  the  bank.  I gave  a loud  halloo, 
when  the  whole  flock  took  flight,  screaming  angrily  at  the  inter- 
ruption, and  several  macaws  added  their  harsh  voices  to  the  con- 
fusion. The  parrots  soon  flitted  past  them  in  the  general  flight, 
leaving  these  splendid  creatures  streaming  along  by  themselves, 
and  looking  like  comets  against  the  azure  sky. 

The  local  name  of  the  macaw  in  Honduras  is  th e,  juacamalla, 
or  huacamaya ; in  Nicaragua  it  is  the  lap  a.  The  bird  does 
not  differ  from  the  Mexican  macaw  except  in  having  a smaller 
and  more  pointed  beak.  Its  colors  are  splendid,  and  beautifully 
distributed  : the  breast,  head,  and  back  are  of  a deep  glossy 
red;  the  wings  yellow,  blue,  and  green  ; the  tail  is  composed 
of  eleven  blue  and  red  quills,  six  of  which  are  stout  and  short, 
the  remaining  five  frail  but  broad,  and,  when  full  grown,  fourteen 
inches  in  length.  In  flying,  these  are  gathered  close  together. 
A grand  convention  of  macaws,  which  may  sometimes  be  wit- 


398 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


nessed  in  the  woods,  imparts  a singular  appearance  to  the  foli- 
age of  the  great  guanacaste,  in  whose  branches  they  usually 
hold  their  meetings.  They  keep  up  an  incessant  screaming, 
scrambling  about,  hanging  by  the  claws,  or  swinging  by  the 
hooked  beak,  till  the  tree  seems  hung  with  gaudy  banners  as  on 
a gala-day.  Toward  the  coast  the  beautiful  green  species  is  said 
to  exist,  much  more  elegant  than  his  rainbow  cousin  ; but  both 
of  these  pale  before  the  superb  blue  macaw,  one  of  the  rarest 
birds  of  the  country.  I heard  of  some  domesticated  in  the  town 
of  Manto,  but  could  never  get  sight  of  one.  They  are  said  to 
avoid  the  other  members  of  the  macaw  family,  and  affect  the 
vicinity  of  the  Lean  coast,  between  Truxillo  and  Omoa. 

From  the  different  species  of  the  macaw,  the  superb  quetzel 
(a  bird  of  the  extremest  rarity),  the  verderon,  the  pavon  real  (or 
royal  peacock),  the  papagayo,  urraca,  pajaro  Colorado,  ruisenor, 
oripendole  (or  pendulum-bird),  and  numerous  others,  among 
which  should  be  mentioned  a great  variety  of  the  humming- 
bird, the  Indians  of  Olancho,  especially  the  Poyas  tribe,  manu- 
facture articles  of  feather  dress,  such  as  caps,  mantles,  belts,  and 
wreaths  for  the  shoulders  and  neck,  besides  adorning  with  them 
their  quivers  and  other  articles  of  the  skins  of  animals.  The 
only  specimen  of  this  work  I could  obtain  was  that  procured 
from  an  Indian  at  Jutecalpa  during  the  funcion.  In  olden 
times  these  articles  were  brought  to  Jutecalpa  for  sale,  but  of 
late  the  custom  has  been  discontinued. 

The  Guayape,  at  the  bend  where  we  stood,  presented  the  ap- 
pearance of  having  no  rocks  in  its  bed.  The  bottom,  as  far  in 
as  we  could  see,  was  of  sand  entirely.  Several  large  logs  and 
branches  of  trees  had  collected  near  by,  just  tilting,  and  bal- 
anced by  their  own  weight  against  the  force  of  the  current. 
Padre  Buenaventura  pushed  them  out  with  his  foot,  when  the 
whole  mass  turned  slowly  into  the  current,  and  floated  down  the 
river.  The  still  places  here  are  filled  with  excellent  fish.  The 
scene  was  one  of  wild  solitude  and  sadness.  From  the  mount- 
ain tops  to  the  shady  depths  of  the  woods  around,  we  heard  no 
sound  but  the  splash  of  the  river,  or  the  distant  cry  of  birds 
on  the  opposite  bank.  A few  hundred  yards  above  us  were  a 
bevy  of  wood-ducks,  hugging  the  shore  and  stemming  the  cur- 
rent to  keep  at  a safe  distance  from  our  party.  Several  sad- 


RETURN  WESTWARD. 


399 


looking  spoon-bills  (. Platalea  Ajaja),  and  blue  and  white  heron, 
stood  silently  contemplating  the  water,  at  times  emitting  a sin- 
gle harsh  cry,  as  if  angry  at  our  unwonted  intrusion.  An  eddy, 
circling  in  the  deep  current  for  a moment,  showed  where  some 
huge  catfish  or  alligator  explored  his  way  up  stream. 

I gazed  until  the  lengthening  shadows  admonished  us  to  start. 
We  returned  by  a road  leading  through  the  beautiful  valley  of 
Santa  Clara,  almost  the  counterpart  of  those  before  referred  to, 
toward  Lepaguare.  Its  carpet  of  green  was  now  a dusky  hori- 
zon, with  the  forms  of  cattle  just  discernible  against  the  fading 
light  of  the  west. 

The  disturbed  state  of  affairs  in  Tegucigalpa  hastened  our 
departure  from  Catacamas.  I had  time,  however,  to  make  an 
excursion  toward  the  sources  of  a small  arroyo  emptying  into 
the  Rio  de  Catacamas,  where  I got  a few  shots  at  deer,  wound- 
ing one,  and  packing  home  the  hind  quarters  of  another.  The 
method  of  shooting  deer  in  this  section  of  Olancho  is  by  “ stalk- 
ing” them  with  a trained  ox.  The  huntsman  walks  toward  the 
herd  on  the  off  side  of  the  ox,  and  thus  approaches  the  animals 
to  within  shooting  distance.  On  the  road  back  to  Catacamas, 
as  we  turned  a sudden  angle  in  the  path,  I found  the  way  dis- 
puted by  a flock  of  large,  heavy  birds,  somewhat  resembling 
wild  turkeys,  for  which  I at  first  mistook  them.  They  arose, 
and  flew  slowly  away  as  we  came  close  upon  them,  and,  but  for 
an  imperfect  cap,  I should  have  added  some  part  of  their  plum- 
age to  my  collection.  These  are  called  by  the  natives  quebrante- 
huesos  (or  break-bones),  from  the  great  strength  of  their  wings, 
which,  like  those  of  the  swan,  are  said  to  have  force  enough  to 
break  a man’s  arm.  They  are  possibly  a specimen  of  sand-hill 
crane,  common  to  Eastern  Texas. 

On  this  trip,  too,  I observed  for  the  first  time  a vegetable 
ivory-tree,  which,  however,  grows  all  over  Olancho.  The  fruit 
of  the  tree  is  a rough  mass  or  bunch  of  a very  hard  substance, 
covered  with  hundreds  of  pointed  pyramids,  from  among  which 
the  nuts  of  vegetable  ivory  bulge  out  like  plurfls  in  a pudding. 
These  nuts  are  of  the  color  and  consistency  of  ivory.  I never 
heard  of  their  being  gathered  in  Honduras. 

Half  a mile  outside  the  town  I was  stopped  by  a boy,  who  is- 
sued from  a cane  hut,  and  ran  at  full  speed  after  me,  with  the 


400 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


request  that,  in  the  name  of  “Dios,”  I would  turn  hack  and  cure 
his  mother.  I had  now  quite  exhausted  my  little  stock  of  med- 
icines, hut,  knowing  the  pertinacity  of  such  applicants,  I return- 
ed at  once  and  dismounted.  The  woman  was  in  the  agonies  of 
death  as  I entered,  and  so  far  gone  that  the  hreath  passed  from 
her  body  a few  minutes  after.  I shall  not  soon  forget  the  fran- 
tic gestures  and  beseeching  look  of  the  little  fellow  who  had 
called  me  back  ; and  when  it  was  evident  that  even  the  “ Ameri- 
cano del  Norte ” could  not  save  her,  he  rushed  screaming  by  the 
padre,  and  ran  into  th zplatinal  near  by,  where  his  cries  and  sobs 
were  really  piteous.  It  was  useless  to  attempt  to  console  him. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Platinal. — Plantains  : their  Cultivation. — Ancient  Ideas  respecting. — The 
Route  home. — Pita. — Deer-skins. — Burning  the  Bolpochi. — Description  of 
venomous  Snakes. — Antidotes.— After  the  Ceremonies. — A nocturnal  Prowl- 
er.— Peruvian  Bark. — Rice. — The  Olancho  Air-gun. — Tobacco. — Return  to 
Jutecalpa. — Gold  Stories. — Musical  Reunion. — Commissions. — The  Depart- 
ure.—Lepaguare  again. — A Visit  to  the  Espumoso. — Mining  Adventures. — 
Making  a Contract. — “Kissing  the  Widow.” — Cold  Weather. — Hail. — Jote- 
jiagua. — The  Gold  of  El  Panal. — El  Retiro. — Gold  at  Alajagua. — Rio  de 
Espana. — A novel  Method  of  Fishing. — Jutecalpa  again. — Bad  News. — Musty 
Documents. — Early  Settlers. — A Morning  Ride. — Good-by  to  Olancho. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  trees  in  the  valleys  of  Olancho, 
and  indeed  of  all  Central  America,  is  the  jplatinal , or  plantain 
grove,  which  adorns  every  plantation.  The  plantain-tree,  like  the 
palm,  is  a feature  of  the  country.  It  forms  an  impervious  and 
protecting  hedge  around  every  estate.  Its  ample  leaves  wave  and 
nod  in  the  breeze  along  the  camino  real  in  many  parts  of  the 
country.  In  the  lowlands  of  Nicaragua  and  Salvador  it  grows 
with  a luxuriance  delightful  to  behold,  and  far  in  the  arid  peaks 
of  the  sierras  of  Honduras,  thousands  of  feet  above  the  sea,  may 
be  found  the  little  platinal , nestling,  green  and  flourishing,  in 
some  vallecito,  with  the  rude  hut  of  the  mountain  laborer  peep- 
ing forth  from  among  the  leaves.  At  Amapala,  the  waves  of  the 
Pacific  washed  around  the  very  roots  of  the  trees,  loaded  with 
the  golden  fruit ; and  far  down  the  rolling  waters  of  the  lonely 
Patook  and  Tinto,  these  trees  were  found  amid  the  wildest  soli- 
tudes, where  the  seeds,  borne  by  the  current  toward  the  Carib- 


THE  PLANTAIN  IN  HONDURAS.  401 

bean  from  the  interior  of  Honduras,  have  lodged  in  the  rich  allu- 
vium, annually  dropping  their  fruits  into  the  rivers. 

An  old  botanical  writer  asserts  it  to  be  a native  of  the  East 
Indies  and  other  parts  of  the  Asiatic  continent,  and  probably  of 
Africa.  It  was  originally  transported  to  the  West  Indies  from 
the  Canary  Islands,  to  which,  it  is  believed,  it  was  carried  many 
centuries  ago  from  Guinea.  It  seems  to  have  migrated  with 
mankind  from  Asia  into  the  numerous  islands  of  the  South  Pa- 
cific Ocean,  where,  as  in  Central  America,  it  has  degenerated  into 
several  varieties.  It  was  not  known  in  America  before  the  ar- 
rival of  the  Spaniards. 

It  is  cultivated  with  very  little  care.  It  attains  its  greatest 
perfection  in  a moist,  rich  soil,  and  in  large  plantations  is  set 
out  in  regular  walks,  or  rows,  about  eight  feet  apart.  It  is  re- 
produced by  shoots,  which  arrive  at  maturity  and  bear  fruit 
shortly  after  the  first  year.  But,  as  the  original  root  sends  up 
new  shoots  each  year,  a sufficient  space  is  left  for  the  increase. 
The  stem  gradually  decays  from  the  period  of  the  ripening  of 
the  fruit,  when  the  young  shoots  commence  to  put  forth.  Thus 
the  plantain  goes  on  producing  to  infinity : the  flower,  the  half- 
formed,  and  the  clusters  of  fully-ripe  fruit,  bursting  with  its  im- 
prisoned luxuries,  all  mingling  with  the  rich  green  foliage,  to 
which  their  gay  hues  stand  in  a beauteous  contrast.  There  is 
no  such  thing  as  the  season  of  them  ; it  is  a perpetual  harvest, 
the  tempting  clusters  bending  themselves  down  within  reach  of 
the  gatherer  every  week  in  the  year. 

In  olden  times  there  was  much  mystery  attached  to  the  plan- 
tain, many  intelligent  persons  in  Europe  being  in  utter  igno- 
rance of  it.  Until  within  the  present  century,  when  the  means 
of  travel  have  become  such  as  to  place  the  most  secluded  coun- 
tries within  shaking-hands’  distance,  very  little  was  known  of 
this,  or  many  other  tropical  fruits,  except  through  the  medium 
of  narratives  of  the  old  voyagers. 

In  1633,  a bunch  of  plantains  was  sent  from  Bermuda  to  Dr. 
Argent,  president  of  the  College  of  Physicians  in  London.  He 
hung  it,  “with  the  fruit  thereon,  in  his  shop,  where  it  became  ripe 
about  the  beginning  of  May,  and  lasted  until  June.  The  pulp 
was  very  soft  and  tender,  and  it  did  eat  somewhat  like  a musk- 
melon.”  Gerarde  and  some  other  old  authors  name  it  Adam’s 

C c 


402 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


apple-tree,  under  the  impression  that  it  was  the  forbidden  fruit 
of  Eden.  Others  supposed  it  to  he  the  grapes  brought  out  of 
the  promised  land  to  Moses.  This  latter  idea  carries  with  it 
some  plausibility ; a bunch  of  ripe  plantains,  or  bananas,  is  a 
splendid  representation  of  a gigantic  cluster  of  grapes,  requiring 
two  men  to  carry  it  slung  to  a pole.  Dampier,  the  old  voyager, 
calls  it  “the  king  of  all  fruit.”  He  says,  “The  inclosed  fruit 
is  no  harder  than  butter  is  in  winter,  and  much  of  the  color.  It 
is  of  a delicate  taste,  and  melts  in  one’s  mouth  like  marmalet!” 
Plantains  and  bananas  have  never  been  articles  of  export,  only 
enough  being  cultivated  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  country. 
From  a hill  in  the  neighborhood  of  Catacamas,  hundreds  of 
small  platinals  may  be  noted,  requiring  little  or  no  labor  for 
their  maintainance. 

My  limited  stay  at  Catacamas  enabled  me  to  collect  but  few 
valuable  facts,  verbal  and  documentary.  Excepting  the  dusky 
faces  of  the  Indian  inhabitants,  and  a trifle  less  comfort  and 
show  in  the  method  of  living,  there  is  but  slight  difference  be- 
tween the  town  and  Jutecalpa.  We  started  homeward,  as  us- 
ual, at  early  dawn,  and  reached  El  Real  at  noon,  cantering  our 
beasts  smartly  nearly  the  whole  route. 

On  the  way  we  dismounted  to  examine  the  plant  from  which 
the  jenican  or  pita  is  obtained  for  the  manufacture  of  the  grass 
hammocks  common  throughout  the  tropics.  The  plant  is  prob- 
ably the  sosquil,  from  which  the  Sisal  hemp  is  made.  It  is  a 
cactus,  not  unlike  the  maguay  or  agave  of  Mexico,  yielding  the 
qoulque  of  that  country.  It  is  not  the  same  plant,  however, 
bearing  no  pulque  blossom,  and  only  resembling  it  in  the  great 
height  of  its  leaves,  which  come  to  a lance  point,  and  are  filled 
with  an  easily-flowing  juice.  Th & pita  grows  wild  in  all  direc- 
tions ; from  it  is  made  the  rope  of  the  country,  cordage  for  boats, 
macates , thread  for  shoemaking  purposes,  all  horse-gear,  lasos, 
and  the  universal  hammock.  The  leaves  are  cut  close  to  the 
root,  then  laid  upon  a flat  stone,  and  curried  with  a bit  of  wood 
shaped  somewhat  like  the  common  rolling-pin.  The  pulpy  mat- 
ter being  thus  expressed  or  rubbed  out  of  the  fibres,  they  are 
dried  in  shreds,  called  pita , and  ready  for  manufacture.  The 
rubbing  process  is  not  continued  after  sunrise,  owing  to  the  effect 
of  the  sun  upon  the  plant,  its  dust  acting  upon  the  skin  like 
cowhage. 


BURNING  THE  BOLPOCHI. 


403 


As  we  entered  El  Real,  a hunter,  with  a mule-load  of  deer- 
skins, joined  us  from  a by-path  leading  toward  the  mountains. 
These  are  worth  from  10  to  12)>  cents  each,  and  are  one  of  the 
articles  of  export  from  this  section.  Instead,  however,  of  being 
sent  down  the  Guayape,  the  most  direct  route  to  the  sea,  they 
are  carried  on  mules  to  Truxillo,  or  often er  to  Jutecalpa,  whence 
mule-trains  go  annually  laden  with  them  to  the  coasts. 

Crossing  the  little  Plaza,  I noticed  a number  of  boys  heaping 
up  a quantity  of  fagots,  as  preparing  for  a bonfire.  One  of  them, 
who  stopped  to  talk  with  Victor,  answered  to  his  inquiries  that 
a bolpochi  or  tamagasa  was  to  be  burnt  at  night.  The  tama- 
gasa,  I soon  learned,  was  one  of  the  deadliest  snakes  in  the  coun- 
try, and  an  object  of  special  vengeance  whenever  safely  captured. 
In  this  ritual  I recognized  a continuance  of  the  idolatrous  cus- 
toms attributed  to  these  Indians  by  the  Spanish  historians,  and 
from  which  their  conversion  to  Catholicism  has  not  entirely 
weaned  them. 

About  eight  o’clock  a tremendous  racket  from  the  outskirts 
of  the  place  set  the  whole  population  into  a race  to  the  spot, 
and,  joining  the  movement,  I came  in  view  of  a procession  of  ten 
or  fifteen  boys  and  old  women,  chanting  an  aboriginal  jargon, 
which,  with  the  fantastic  dresses  donned  for  the  occasion,  and  an 
occasional  harridan’s  dance  and  look,  brought  to  mind  some 
horrid  incantation  scene  of  tragic  muse.  The  word  “bolpochi," 
another  name  for  the  tamagasa,  was  at  times  recognizable.  The 
snake,  whose  bite  is  believed  to  be  more  deadly  than  that  of  the 
dreaded  corral  or  saikan,  is  found  in  this  section  of  country. 
The  mordido  de  bolpochi  (or  bolpochi-bitten)  is  instantly  thrown 
upon  his  back,  and  copious  drafts  of  aguardiente  or  other  stim- 
ulant turned  down  his  throat  to  preserve  life  until  the  padre  can 
be  sent  for,  who  leaves  all  other  occupations,  day  or  night,  to 
hasten  to  the  scene,  for  the  inexorable  poison  leaves  the  victim 
but  a few  minutes  for  shriving. 

The  body  is  represented  as  quickly  swelling,  and,  as  discol- 
oration spreads,  the  affected  parts  grow  gradually  rigid.  The 
sufferer  becomes  insensible,  and  expires  a hideous  spectacle. 
No  remedy,  not  even  the  cedron  or  the  guaco,  both  supposed  to 
be  infallible  remedies  for  the  poison  of  venomous  reptiles,  avails 
in  these  cases  to  avert  certain  death. 


404 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Such  was  the  account  given  me  by  Senor  Meneia,  who  had, 
with  bare  feet  and  baton  of  office,  deigned  to  accompany  me  to 
the  Plaza  to  observe  the  progress  of  the  ceremony. 

The  bonfire  before  alluded  to  had  just  been  lighted,  at  which 
the  bolpochi  was  to  be  roasted  alive ! and  a fit  subject  for  such 
treatment  he  appeared.  Part  of  the  procession  consisted  of  a 
pole  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  two  boys,  in  the  middle  of  which, 
slung  firmly  by  the  tail,  with  his  mouth  sewed  up  to  prevent  his 
snapping  his  horrid  jaws,  hung  the  redoubtable  snake.  He  was 
not  far  from  three  feet  in  length,  about  three  inches  around  the 
largest  part,  and  of  a dark,  spotted  yellow  hue.  What  with 
the  excited  gestures  of  the  natives,  the  appalling  accounts  of  the 
creature’s  venomous  qualities,  and  the  angry  writhings  and  lash- 
ings of  the  bolpochi  himself,  I was  already  imbued  with  a whole- 
some dread  of  the  snake,  equal  to  that  of  the  Olanchanos. 

Padre  Morillo  approached,  and,  after  pronouncing  a scathing 
malediction,  cursing  his  snakeship  in  the  name  of  the  Virgin 
and  all  the  saints  in  the  calendar,  the  object  of  general  wrath 
was  thrust  into  the  flames,  and  if  any  poison  yet  remained  it 
was  put  to  the  test  of  such  heat  as  only  a salamander  could 
stand. 

Two  natives  had  captured  the  snake  ; one  threw  his  poncho 
over  him  while  basking  in  the  sun,  and  the  other  confined  his 
head  to  the  earth  with  a crotched  stick  until  his  mouth  was 
sewed  up.  They  received  the  blessing  of  the  padre,  and,  after 
the  firing  ordeal,  a collection  was  taken  up  for  them.  I secured 
the  eternal  friendship  of  the  padre  by  casting  a dollar  in  silver 
reals  into  the  basin.  I suspected,  with  reason,  that  his  worship 
retained,  by  private  agreement  with  the  Indians,  a considerable 
portion. 

One  of  these  fellows,  I was  told,  had  signalized  himself  by 
catching  and  killing  bolpochis,  saikans,  tigers,  and  other  “ var- 
mints,” and  stood  in  the  same  relation  to  Olancho  that  Saint 
Patrick  did  to  the  Emerald  Isle.  The  bolpochi  is  known  in 
Yucatan,  where  he  haunts  the  aboriginal  ruins.  The  “ barber’s 
pole,”  mentioned  by  Henderson  as  among  the  venomous  snakes 
of  Balize,  is  probably  the  corral,  bearing  a local  name. 

Of  the  corral,  Byam  says  that,  should  a man  be  bitten,  he 
falls  immediately,  his  blood  curdles  into  a thick,  coagulated 


VENOMOUS  SNAKES. 


405 


state,  when  he  dies  and  becomes  putrid  in  a short  time.  The 
corral  is  copper-red,  with  rings  of  yellow,  white,  or  black  around 
the  body.  He  is  differently  formed  from  most  snakes,  and  is 
often  seen  three  feet  in  length.  The  tamagasa  or  tommy-goff 
is  scarcely  less  terrible.  He  is  known  by  a vicious  flat  head, 
and  sports  an  unsightly  bunch  on  the  back  of  his  neck.  The 
saikan  has  been  supposed  to  be  the  corral  under  an  Indian 
name : this,  however,  is  a distinct  snake,  whose  bite  is  often  fa- 
tal. The  taboba  is  another  venomous  snake,  thought  by  many 
to  be  even  worse  than  any  of  the  above-mentioned.  Its  bite  is 
absolute  death.  It  is  as  common  to  Nicaragua  as  to  Honduras. 
I have  in  my  notes  five  well-authenticated  stories  of  sudden 
death  occurring  from  the  bite  of  this  creature.  It  is  but  eighteen 
inches  long,  but  thick  for  its  length,  of  a dark  shiny  brown,  and 
very  malicious.  It  has  a large  head,  and  makes  a sound  like 
the  chirping  of  a cricket : this  is  the  signal  for  all  within  hear- 
ing to  rush  from  the  spot.  The  taboba  is  said  to  be  very  slug- 
gish, and  almost  torpid  during  the  day,  and  is  reckoned  a great 
sneak,  as  he  only  crawls  between  sunset  and  sunrise,  and  then  at 
a pace  to  make  up  for  his  temporary  inactivity.  A finger  bitten 
in  the  field  or  forest  is  instantly  chopped  off  by  the  companions 
of  the  sufferer. 

With  such  an  appalling  list  of  deadly  snakes,  to  say  noth- 
ing of  the  tamaulipas,  tarantula,  scorpion,  and  centipede,  it  would 

be  inferred  that  Olancho  is  a 
universal  nest  for  venomous 
reptiles  ; yet,  though  these 
all  exist,  as  in  most  intertrop- 
ical  countries,  they  are  not 
found  in  such  numbers  as  to 
be  dangerous.  The  boa,  and 
other  large  but  harmless  ser- 
pents are  known  to  exist,  but 
my  knowledge  of  them  was  confined  to  one  seen  at  Santa  Ur- 
sula in  Nicaragua. 

So  much  space  devoted  to  poisonous  snakes  merits  to  be  ter- 
minated with  a description  of  the  best-known  antidote,  which  I 
became  familiar  with,  in  the  shape  of  a parasitical  vine  or  creeper, 
clinging  with  delicate  tendrils  to  its  supporter.  Thompson  (p. 


THE  SCORPION. 


406 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


66)  refers  to  the  astonishing  antidotal  powers  of  the  guaco.  It 
proves,  he  says,  a speedy  cure  for  poison  from  snakes  whose  bite 
insures  death  in  twenty  minutes.  The  sufferer  bites  a small 
piece  from  the  guaco,  of  which  the  root  or  branches  are  equally 
efficacious,  and  applies  the  saliva  to  the  wound,  and  also  swal- 
lows the  saliva  arising  from  mastication  for  a few  hours,  when 
all  deleterious  effects  disappear.  Birds  known  to  feast  on  rep- 
tiles and  snakes,  and  animals  that  have  been  bitten  by  them,  are 
said  to  apply  for  relief  to  the  guaco  vine.  The  cedron  is  a more 
recent  discovery.  It  is  a nut,  cutting  like  soft  pine,  and  said  to 
be  equal  to  the  guaco.  The  seeds  of  the  snake  okro,  or  vegetable 
musk,  made  into  a paste  and  applied  as  a poultice,  or  taken  in- 
wardly, and  the  plant  known  as  the  eryngo,  are  also  known  to 
be  efficacious  as  antidotes  to  the  bites  of  reptiles. 

I am  afraid  that  the  Padres  Buenaventura  and  Morillo  were 
not  always  shining  examples  to  their  little  flocks  ; at  least,  on 
the  bolpochi-night  at  El  Real  they  laid  themselves  open  to  such 
a suspicion.  A large  jar  of  aguardiente  got  into  the  house  after 
the  ceremonies,  more  than  probably  purchased  with  the  contri- 
bution money,  and  it  was  quite  peep  of  dawn  when  the  two 
holy  men  retired  to  rest,  which  they  did  in  apparent  disregard 
to  comfort,  coiled  up  in  most  unclerical  plight  in  a corner  of  the 
adobe.  About  noon  they  arose  and  ate  in  silence  a pyramid 
of  tortillas  placed  between  them  by  a bedraggled  Indian  girl. 

After  this  late  breakfast,  Victor  and  the  padre’s  boy  saddled 
the  animals,  and  we  set  out  toward  Penuare.  As  we  issued 
from  the  town  we  overtook  an  Indian,  who,  of  course,  in  the 
name  of  the  ‘ ‘ Santissimo  Sacramento  del  Altar ,”  begged  alms 
of  us.  The  padre  held  back  my  hand  as  I was  about  proffering 
a small  coin,  and  himself  gave  the  fellow  some  change,  saying, 
“ Hijo , aqui  van  dos  reales.  ” The  Indian  shut  his  fingers  over 
the  gift  and  pursued  his  way.  We  were  struggling  up  a deep 
cuesta , when  we  were  again  saluted  from  afar  with  boisterous 
shouts  from  our  Indian  friend.  Almost  breathless,  he  rushed 
up  to  the  padre  with,  “ Oh ! Senor  Padre,  it  was  only  a real  you 
gave  me.”  “Let  me  see,”  placidly  replied  the  padre,  counting 
the  change,  and  quietly  restoring  it  to  his  pocket,  with  the  re- 
mark, “ Hijo,  a caballo  regalado,  no  hai  que  mirarle  el  diente." 
(My  son,  never  look  a gift-horse  in  the  mouth  !) 


A MIDNIGHT  PROWLER. 


407 


The  surprise  depicted  in  the  applicant’s  face  can  be  imagined, 
but  it  immediately  relapsed  into  the  taciturn  expression  distin- 
guishing the  Indian  race. 

We  reached  the  hacienda  after  rather  an  unsocial  ride,  the  pa- 
dre appearing  to  cogitate,  with  a depressed  air,  over  the  previous 
night’s  hilarity.  On  our  arrival  he  dismounted,  took  a cup  of 
coffee,  smoked  a cigarro,  and  dropped  to  sleep  again.  Early 
next  morning  he  awoke,  cheery  as  a lark,  and  more  than  ever 
talkative  from  his  late  taciturnity.  We  continued  our  journey 
to  La  Herradura,  where  we  arrived  at  nightfall. 

Here  we  were  again  welcomed  by  Senor  Meza  and  the  Nina 
Benita,  and,  after  a comfortable  chat  and  smoke,  retired  for  the 
night,  with  the  view  of  an  early  start  for  Telica  in  the  morning. 
About  midnight  a tremendous  uproar  in  the  adobe  hen-roost 
aroused  us,  and  Don  Ignacion,  with  his  two  Indians,  rushed 
with  lighted  torches  to  the  scene  of  confusion,  whence  he  com- 
menced a lusty  shouting,  answered  at  intervals  by  the  screams 
of  the  Nina  Benita,  who  sat  up  like  a ghost  in  her  bed.  The 
night  was  cold,  and  the  delay  of  finding  my  serape  and  rifle 
just  allowed  me  to  catch  a glimpse  of  a beast  of  prey  leisurely 
galloping  up  a neighboring  slope  with  a rooster  in  his  mouth. 
It  was  an  ocelot  or  mountain-cat,  who  had  scratched  his  way 
under  the  hut.  A rifle-shot  did  nothing  toward  stopping  him, 
and  he  soon  disappeared  from  sight.  As  Don  Ignacion  re- 
moved the  remaining  fowls  into  the  house,  he  said  this  was  the 
third  visit  this  animal  had  paid  him,  and  that,  in  scrambling 
through  the  hole,  he  had  dealt  him  two  tremendous  thwacks 
over  the  back,  which  accounted  for  his  slow  gait  in  escaping. 

In  the  morning  we  started  again  for  Telica,  and,  passing- 
through  San  Roque,  with  scarcely  a halt  to  rest  our  horses,  ar- 
rived at  the  village  in  time  to  assist  the  Padre  Fiallos  at  his 
evening  meal.  A child  at  the  door  was  blowing  arrows  through 
a hollow  reed,  which  I then  ascertained  was  a common  instru- 
ment for  the  capture  of  birds  by  the  Indians,  a custom  handed 
down  by  the  aborigines.  The  reed,  which  is  usually  about  four 
feet  long,  is  polished  inside  by  a peculiar  process.  It  is  charged 
with  a poisoned  arrow,  insuring  instant  death  to  the  wounded 
bird. 

At  Telica  was  a small  field  of  rice,  which  throughout  Olancho 


408 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


grows  without  submerging  or  irrigation  of  any  kind.  There  ex- 
ists scarcely  any  machinery  for  its  preparation ; yet,  with  the 
rude  manner  of  its  cultivation,  it  forms  one  of  the  principal  ar- 
ticles of  food.  The  grains  are  white  and  small,  and,  I should 
think,  of  the  best  quality.  Rice  is  claimed  to  have  been  first  in- 
troduced and  cultivated  in  Olancho  by  Senor  Garay  in  1829. 
A species  of  Peruvian  bark  ( copalchi ) is  also  abundant  in  all 
directions,  and  in  Jutecalpa,  where  it  is  known  as  “ quina”  it  is 
chewed  for  its  supposed  virtues  as  a febrifuge.  This  is  proba- 
bly the  same  drug  exported  from  other  tropical  countries  under 
the  name  of  “ kino ,”  and  manufactured  into  sulphate  of  quinine. 

Tobacco  is  cultivated  at  Telica  as  well  as  at  most  of  the  prin- 
cipal haciendas  in  Olancho.  Enough  only  is  raised  to  supply 
the  home  demand,  its  consumption  being  confined  to  paper-cigar 
smoking.  It  is  indigenous  to  Central  America,  and  grows  in 
some  places  almost  to  rival  the  cultivated  plant.  The  tobacco 
silvestre,  gathered  by  the  Indians  beyond  Catacamas,  was  prob- 
ably used  for  an  unknown  period  before  the  discovery  of  Amer- 
ica. Columbus  found  it  common  among  the  Indians  of  Cuba  in 
1492,  and  in  1565  Hernandez  de  Toledo  sent  a tobacco-plant  to 
Spain  as  “a  plant  of  the  New  World  possessing  extraordinary 
virtues.”  The  seeds  are  usually  sown  in  the  shade  of  a tree,  and 
the  plants  set  out  when  about  the  size  of  a dollar.  The  cultiva- 
tion commences  in  November.  The  method  of  cutting  and  curing 
the  leaf  is  a rude  imitation  of  that  pursued  in  the  West  Indies. 

The  tobacco  of  Santa  Rosa,  in  the  Department  of  Gracias,  is 
the  best  known  in  Central  America,  excepting  that  of  Sonsonate, 
in  San  Salvador.  It  is  a source  of  revenue  to  the  government, 
the  right  to  sell  the  article  being  rented  to  the  highest  bidders, 
who,  of  course,  enjoy  the  monopoly  of  the  trade.  With  proper 
cultivation,  the  tobacco  of  Honduras  might  obtain  a reputation 
it  can  never  reach  under  the  present  order  of  affairs.  Hitherto 
it  has  remained  almost  unknown  to  the  world,  but  latterly  the 
Santa  Rosa  cigars  are  becoming  celebrated  along  the  Central 
American  coast.  On  the  Transit  Route  they  command  a high 
price,  and  one  cargo  has  been  shipped  to  San  Francisco  from 
the  Bay  of  F onseca.  Since  the  invasions  of  the  Department  of 
Gracias  by  the  Guatemalans,  the  cultivation  of  tobacco,  as  well 
as  of  other  staples,  has  been  greatly  retarded. 


LEAVE-TAKING. 


409 


We  rode  into  Jutecalpa  on  the  following  evening,  somewhat 
wearied  with  the  jaunt,  but  delighted  with  the  new  features  of 
Central  American  life,  manners,  and  scenery  it  had  opened  to 
our  inspection. 

Another  week  at  Jutecalpa.  It  would  be  needless  here  to 
detail  the  routine  of  little  festivities  to  which  I was  invited  when 
my  determination  to  depart  was  known,  or  the  complimentary 
visits  received  from  my  many  kind  friends.  One  begged  I would 
send  the  Americans  from  cl  Norte  to  occupy  Olancho  before  the 
British  could  overrun  it ; another  promised  to  disclose  the  rich- 
est placeres  in  the  department  when  I returned  with  a colony ; 
another  desired  I would  remain  a few  weeks  longer  to  examine 
a vein  of  gold  near  the  village  of  Agalta,  some  forty  miles  north- 
west of  Jutecalpa,  where  gold  could  be  seen  by  breaking  off 
pieces  of  the  quartz ; still  another  had  afforded  medical  aid  to 
an  old  woman  in  the  Salto  range,  who,  in  return,  had  offered  to 
disclose  a locality  where  gold  could  be  “ scraped  up this  he 
would  follow  up,  and  write  me  the  particulars  of  in  el  Norte. 
It  is  needless  to  say  I have  never  heard  since  of  the  empresario 
or  his  mine. 

On  the  night  previous  to  my  departure,  a grand  ball  and  supper 
was  given  at  the  house  of  Senor  Garay  in  honor  of  my  visit.  At 
eight  o’clock  not  less  than  fifty  of  the  Jutecalpans  had  collected. 
The  house  was  lighted  with  tallow  candles.  A band  of  guitars 
and  wind  instruments  occupied  the  end  of  the  room,  and  the 
dancing  was  opened  by  the  Nina  Teresa  (the  heroine  of  the 
courtship  story  before  referred  to)  and  a young  blade  of  Jute- 
calpa named  Alejo  Jurmanito.  Songs  and  guitar  voluntaries 
followed.  After  each  vocal  effort,  the  gay  wife  of  Don  Santiago 
Zelaya  would  lean  over  to  me  and  say, 

“Ahora!  como  le  par ece  a Vd.  let  musica  V to  which,  of 
course,  I replied  with  my  most  elaborate  praise. 

An  audience  with  light  hearts  and  simple  wishes  were  easily 
excited  to  laughter,  with  which  the  house  rang  at  frequent  comic 
songs  of  Jurmanito.  A keen  appreciation  of  the  ludicrous  and 
love  of  mirth  is  certainly  a distinguishing  characteristic  of  the 
Olanchanos. 

After  the  ball,  a few  friends  remained  and  gravely  discussed 
the  future  prospects  of  Olancho,  and  on  parting  I received  a spe- 


410 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


cial  commission  to  bring  with  me  on  my  return  from  el  Norte  a 
variety  of  carved  figures  and  paintings  for  the  church,  a church 
clock,  a pump,  some  silver  watches,  a package  of  pills  and  other 
medicines,  fruit-seeds,  fire- works  for  the  ensuing  funcion,  a num- 
ber of  blue  cloaks,  fire-arms,  cutlery,  some  ten  chandeliers  in 
which  to  burn  candles  for  the  church,  and  an  endless  amount  of 
fans,  ribbons,  dress-patterns,  and  gewgaws  for  the  ladies,  all  of 
which  I was  assured  I should  receive  an  immense  profit  on,  and 
for  which  all  agreed  to  commence  at  once  the  collection  of  hides, 
sarsaparilla,  horns,  tallow,  vanilla,  gold  dust,  and  precious  pro- 
ductions of  various  kinds. 

“We  shall  await,”  said  they,  “the  arrival  of  the  steam-boat 
coming  up  the  Guayape,  Don  Guillermo,  and  when  you  arrive 
we  will  show  all  your  friends  how  we  can  receive  them  in  Olan- 
cho.” 

On  the  following  morning  I rode  through  the  streets,  and, 
after  exchanging  hearty  “Adios  /”  with  all,  our  cavalcade  start- 
ed for  Lepaguare.  Roberto  was  crazy  with  delight  at  turning 
his  face  at  last  toward  his  dear  Tegucigalpa,  and  as  the  bend  of 
Sacate  Yerde  shut  the  town  from  view,  he  apostrophized  the 
beauties  of  his  native  city  with  a well-known  song,  of  which 
these  are  the  two  first  stanzas  : 

“ Si  me  muero  que  me  intieren 
Junto  al  sol  del  medio  dia 
Donde  tiacen  las  morenas, 

De  la  hermosa  Andalusia. 

Si  me  pierdo  que  me  buscen 
Junto  al  sol  del  medio  dia 
Donde  nacen  las  morenas, 

De  la  hermosa  Andalusia.” 

The  song,  delivered  with  the  nasal  whine  peculiar  to  the  Span- 
ish vocalist,  was  assisted  in  the  chorus  by  Victor,  whose  pleas- 
ure at  the  prospect  of  returning  was  quite  equal  to  that  of  Ro- 
berto. Before  recovering  from  their  musical  fit,  they  had  sev- 
eral times  shouted  through  the  well-known  and  almost  national 
cancion  known  as  “Mananita  MananitaA 

At  Lepaguare  I found  the  general  awaiting  our  arrival.  Here 
we  remained  a few  weeks.  The  sehora  was  slowly  recovering, 
and,  much  to  my  gratification,  attributed  her  convalescence  to 
the  remedios  I had  left  on  my  last  visit.  I had  my  own  opin- 


EL  ESPUMOSO. 


411 


about  midway  between  the  Murcielago  and  tlic  village  of  Ale- 
man. Here  have  been  known  in  olden  times  the  richest  gold 
diggings  in  Olancho.  Evidences  of  ancient  workings  still  ex- 
ist, and  very  fine  gold  may  be  washed  out  from  the  earth  or 
sand  in  every  square  foot  of  earth.  Without  machinery,  or  the 
methods  now  pursued  in  California  and  Australia,  this  gold  could 
not  be  profitably  collected,  unless,  as  I suppose,  coarser  speci- 


ions  on  this  subject,  but  for  obvious  reasons  did  not  express 
them.  Here  again,  accompanied  by  the  general  or  his  brothers, 
I rode  over  the  entire  Zelaya  estates,  visiting  all  the  best-known 
gold  placeres,  and  making  notes  at  the  end  of  each  trip.  I lack 
space  to  describe  each  “gold  locality”  which  we  visited.  The 
Almacigueras,  San  Nicolas,  Barros,  and  others,  all  famous  in 
Olancho,  were  in  turn  explored.  Accounts  of  them  would  but 
repeat  in  effect  what  has  been  already  written  of  other  places. 
By  far  the  most  interesting  of  these  excursions  was  the  visit  to 
the  Espumoso  or  foam,  a rapid  and  whirlpool  in  the  Guayape, 


412 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


mens  exist  below  where  any  recent  attempts  have  been  made. 
The  ancients  have  possibly  exhausted  these  diggings. 

Senor  Cacho,  Minister  of  Finance  of  Honduras,  at  one  time 
organized  a company  to  work  the  Espumoso,  supposed  to  be  the 
richest  gold  deposit  in  the  world.  It  is  believed  that  the  gold, 
brought  down  in  fine  particles  from  above,  has  lodged  in  the 
deep  excavation  beneath  the  falls  from  the  fact  that,  though  con- 
siderable quantities  are  found  in  the  banks  above,  none  is  to  be 
obtained  below.  The  enterprise  of  Senor  Cacho,  as  well  as  that 
of  several  others  whose  attention  has  been  drawn  to  this  spot, 
was  destroyed,  as  usual,  by  revolutions.  In  1849  it  was  grant- 
ed to  Mr.  A.  J.  Marie,  whose  period  of  inception  having  expired 
while  attempting  to  organize  a company  in  the  United  States, 
the  general  swore  at  first  that  he  would  be  at  no  further  trouble 
in  regard  to  it.  He  saw  reason,  however,  to  change  his  mind. 

The  approaches  to  the  Espumoso  from  Aleman,  or  the  gold 
bar  of  Murcielago  above,  are  picturesque  and  varied.  The  sol- 
itude is  profound.  No  trace  of  human  industry  or  of  habita- 
tions— not  even  the  smoke  of  a distant  camp-fire  to  indicate  the 
presence  of  humanity.  We  rode  over  hills  reminding  me  of 
some  parts  of  Massachusetts,  wooded  in  copses,  with  a great  va- 
riety of  trees  and  shrubbery,  separated  by  slopes  and  plains  of 
grass.  A low  ridge,  croAvned  with  cedar,  mahogany,  India-rub- 
ber, and  oak  trees,  impedes  the  course  of  the  Guayape,  which 
rushes  down  between  walls  of  rock  two  hundred  feet  apart, 
plunging  into  a deep  basin,  or  pot,  which  the  torrent  seems  to 
have  holloAved  out  for  itself,  as  may  be  seen  at  the  Merrimac,  in 
the  vicinity  of  Franconia. 

We  stood  near  the  bank,  and  contemplated  in  silence  the 
tumbling,  foaming  Avater.  To  a Californian  it  Avas  not  difficult 
to  picture  a company  of  bearded,  stalwart  men  building,  as  they 
do  in  these  days,  a grand  water-way  or  timber-sluice  to  carry 
the  torrent  of  the  Guayape  high  over  the  Espumoso,  and  leave 
dry  and  accessible  the  treasury  below.  “Damming  the  river’' 
it  is  sometimes  called  in  California  ; a process,  in  another  sense, 
often  applied  to  the  river  and  all  connected  with  it  after  a season 
of  fruitless  labor,  but  which,  if  tradition  speaks  truly,  would 
hardly  be  the  case  with  the  Espumoso.  The  difficulties,  how- 
ever, of  turning  the  river,  or  even  of  conducting  the  waters  by 


WRITING  A CONTRACT. 


413 


fiumes  above  the  edge  of  the  falls,  are  very  great,  and  will  prob- 
ably never  be  attempted.  The  riches  of  the  Espnmoso  are  only 
conjectural,  and  can  be  tested  by  divers  quite  as  satisfactorily 
and  much  more  economically  than  by  fluming. 

After  several  days  of  necessary  Spanish  delay,  we  seated  our- 
selves one  morning,  after  breakfast,  around  the  great  cedar  table 
in  the  sala,  and  now  commenced  the  formation  of  our  long-moot- 
ed contract.  At  the  head  of  the  table  sat  Don  Francisco,  nicely 
shaven,  and  his  gray,  curly  hair  combed  for  the  occasion.  He 
had  also  donned  his  best  suit.  The  brothers  Jose  Manuel,  San- 
tiago, and  Jose  Maria  occupied  two  sides  of  the  table,  L and 

myself  the  other.  It  was  evident  that  the  subject  had  been  de- 
liberately discussed  during  my  journey  to  Catacamas,  the  for- 
mation of  a contract  for  the  disposal  of  the  time-honored  Zelaya 
estates  being  too  grave  a matter  for  trivial  consideration.  But 
matters  moved  slowly. 

The  least  display  of  haste  excited  suspicion  of  some  import- 
ant point  to  be  gained  which  I was  anxious  to  hurry  beyond 
scrutiny,  and  extra  delay  was  invariably  the  consequence.  The 
value  of  every  word  was  considered.  The  qualities  to  be  studied 
in  bargaining  with  Spanish  Americans  is  patience  first,  then  not 
to  exhibit  any  anxiety  or  haste ; leave  the  business  on  hand, 
fall  back  in  your  seat,  light  your  cigarro,  and  chat  away  on  gen- 
eral subjects  ; take  a traigito  occasionally,  throw  in  an  anecdote 
illustrating  the  rush  of  life  and  trade  in  el  Norte , and  affairs  will 
go  pleasantly  enough,  but  never  try  to  hurry  a Central  Ameri- 
can. 

By  two  o’clock,  with  frequent  intervals,  we  had  got  through 
but  three  articles,  which  had  been  re-read  and  re-written  until, 
what  with  alterations  in  Spanish  and  English,  the  letters  fairly 
danced  before  my  eyes.  That  night  I lay  thinking  over  the 
progress  made  during  the  day,  and  quaking  over  the  anticipated 
revisals  of  the  morrow.  I remembered  several  bottles  of  Cog- 
nac sent  from  Balize,  which  had  been  placed  in  the  alforjas  on 
the  morning  of  our  departure  from  Jutecalpa  by  Sehor  Ocampo. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  daybreak,  I produced  one  of 
these,  and,  drawing  the  cork,  invited  the  general  to  taste  the 
contents.  His  daily  potations  being  confined  to  the  aguardi- 
ente del  pais , he  was  not  long  in  discovering  the  superior  qual- 


414 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ity  of  the  Cognac.  Before  breakfast  be  had  thrice  renewed  his 
acquaintance  with  the  black  bottle. 

We  had  scarcely  renewed  the  consideration  of  the  contract, 
when,  in  the  middle  of  the  fourth  article,  the  general  paused, 
and,  turning  to  me  with  a bland  smile,  remarked,  “ Vamos  a 
besar  la  viuda  /”  (Let’s  kiss  the  widow).  The  rest  of  the  com- 
pany wished  to  know  who  the  general’s  widow  might  be,  when 
the  lady  was  introduced  and  placed  on  the  table.  It  was  not 
long  before  all  present  had  paid  their  respects  to  the  widow,  who 
at  last  exhausted  herself  in  dispensing  her  favors. 

Thenceforth  the  widow  was  the  umpire  in  all  disputed  points, 
and  such  was  her  soothing  influence  that  in  three  days  the  con- 
tract had  been  written,  copied,  and  sent  on  its  way  to  Jutecal- 

pa  for  official  signature.  L started  for  Tegucigalpa  with 

Victor,  the  revolutionary  rumors  exciting  his  anxiety  about 
home.  The  widow,  however,  did  not  cease  her  influence  with 
the  conclusion  of  the  contract,  but  helped  to  keep  the  brothers 
good-natured  until  the  whole  gift  of  Don  Opolonio  was  ex- 
pended. 

During  these  few  weeks  at  Lepaguare,  which  was  in  Decem- 
ber and  January  (months  commonly  supposed  to  be  far  into  the 
dry  season  of  Central  America),  we  had  frequent  showers,  night 
and  day,  with  thunder  and  lightning.  Yaqueros  came  shiver- 
ing around  the  fires  built  in  the  court-yard,  complaining  bitterly 
of  the  cold.  With  the  wind  from  the  north,  a fire  was  indis- 
pensable for  comfort.  I was  assured  that  hail  ( pieclras  de  gra- 
nizo ) had  fallen  within  a few  days  in  the  mountains,  and  that 
scarcely  a year  passed  without  hail  falling  in  the  higher  ranges. 

The  general  made  annual  purchases  at  Omoa  and  Truxillo 
of  cloths  and  drillings,  which  his  own  mule-trains  brought  up 
from  the  coast,  and  from  which  the  surrounding  haciendas  were 
supplied.  On  Sunday  the  yard  was  filled  with  people  from  all 
directions,  who,  in  turn,  entered  the  house  and  carefully  exam- 
ined the  goods.  From  these  visitors  I obtained  endless  ac- 
counts of  the  gold  mines,  and  many  of  them,  speaking  from  per- 
sonal experience,  seemed  worthy  of  credence. 

Cerro  Gordo,  or  big  hill,  stands  on  the  plain  of  Lepaguare, 
fronting  the  hacienda,  and  here  a woman,  who  had  been  a lava- 
dera,  pointed  out  from  where  we  stood  a ridge  of  quartz  rock 


GOLD  LEGENDS. 


415 


which  she  said  was  gold-bearing.  In  the  brook  flowing  at  its 
base,  great  sums  of  gold,  she  said,  had  been  washed  out.  An- 
other knew  of  twenty  localities  where  “ dry  gold”  had  been 
found.  The  mayor-domo  of  Ulua,  who  had  been  a gold-seeker 
in  his  day,  asserted  that  the  deposits  in  the  Guayape  were  noth- 
ing to  those  of  the  Mangulile  or  Mirojoco,  on  the  head-waters  of 
the  river  Roman  or  Aguan.  Here,  he  says,  pieces  of  gold  have 
been  found  near  the  surface  weighing  more  than  a pound. 
These  mines,  he  said,  may  be  reached  via  the  Roman  River. 
“Lumps  of  clay  had  been  found  along  the  banks  with  pieces 
of  gold  weighing  from  two  to  three  pounds,  and  of  the  mass 
more  than  half  pure  gold."  The  recent  discoveries  on  the 
north  coast  of  Honduras,  on  the  River  Papaloteca,  would  seem 
to  afford  partial  corroboration  to  the  gold  stories  of  that  region. 

Senor  Bustillos  at  Jutecalpa  had  received  from  President  Ca- 
banas the  appointment  of  Indian  Superintendent  of  the  tribes 
of  Olancho,  the  object  of  the  office  being  to  protect  them  as  far 
as  possible  in  their  relations  with  the  other  races.  This  gentle- 
man, to  whom  I had  a letter  of  introduction  from  Cabanas,  in  a 
long  conversation  I had  with  him  on  the  subject  of  gold,  assured 
me  that  he  had  ascertained  many  startling  facts  relative  to  the 
former  productiveness  of  the  gold  mines.  Pounds  of  pure  gold 
were  brought  in  the  olden  time  and  sold  by  the  Indians  in 
Olancho  Viejo,  and  especially  in  the  town  of  Culmi,  to  the 
northward.  The  padres  in  those  days  knew  their  hiding-places 
for  gold.  They  still,  said  he,  have  hidden  mines  of  gold,  which 
no  coaxing  will  induce  them  to  discover.  There  is  a gold  mine 
near  Jutecalpa,  continued  my  informant,  bearing  the  aboriginal 
name  of  Jotejiagua,  in  the  mountain  of  Sapote  Verde.  That 
this  was  once  immensely  productive,  the  most  reliable  accounts 
attest ; but,  after  the  settlement  of  the  Spaniards,  the  Indians 
closed  it  up,  and  destroyed  all  traces  of  its  existence.  It  has 
\ been  the  object  of  search  for  many  years,  and  evidences  of  old 
workings  and  implements  have  been  found,  but  never  the  mine. 

I should  not  here  neglect  the  account  given  me  by  my  old 
friend,  Senor  Garay,  of  Jutecalpa,  of  the  gold  deposits  at  his 
hacienda  of  El  Panal,  to  the  northward  of  Lepaguare,  near  the 
boundary  of  Toro.  In  1836,  my  informant  was  engaged  in 
branding  cattle  on  his  hacienda,  and  there  met  with  Senor  La- 


416 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


vaeri,  a Spanish  doctor,  who,  failing  in  some  silver-mining  en- 
terprises in  Mexico,  had  come  to  Honduras  to  retrieve  his  for- 
tunes. The  doctor  was  now  engaged  in  working  a gold  mine 
not  far  from  the  old  man’s  hacienda.  By  a gold  mine  was  meant 
that  in  one  of  the  streams  of  that  vicinity  he  had  discovered  a 
deposit  of  the  precious  metal,  and  had  some  rude  machinery  at 
work  to  separate  it  from  the  earth  and  sand. 

Senor  Garay  visited  the  works,  and,  finding  that  the  empresa- 
rio  was  a man  after  his  own  heart,  he  offered  to  advance  the 
necessary  funds,  and  also  to  locate  the  doctor  where,  if  he  was 
fond  of  working  mines  rather  than  owning  cattle,  he  could  get 
rich  in  one  season.  He  took  him  to  the  Quebrada  of  Panal,  and 
a day’s  washing  with  bateas  yielded  two  ounces  of  gold.  Soon 
after  the  doctor  removed  all  his  machinery  to  this  spot,  and 
took  into  his  service  another  Spaniard  named  Butanzos,  who 
acted  as  his  foreman.  After  many  days’  labor  the  works  were 
erected,  and  in  a few  hours  the  results  of  the  crushing,  filter- 
ing, or  whatever  the  machinery  consisted  of,  examined,  when 
two  ounces  of  fine  gold  were  taken  out. 

But  this  flattering  success  was  destined  not  to  be  continued, 
for  the  machinery  was  found  to  be  located  on  a bed  of  moving- 
sand,  or  quicksand,  and  in  a week  was  nearly  all  ingulfed.  All 
operations  gradually  ceased,  and  Doctor  Lavaeri  went  to  the 
Mangulile  River,  where,  after  working  two  years,  he  returned  to 
Spain  with  many  pounds  of  gold.  But  in  the  week  above- 
mentioned  there  was  nearly  a pound  of  fine  gold  taken  out  of 
the  machine,  which  the  narrator  affirms  he  assisted  to  weigh. 
The  wreck  of  the  machinery  may  yet  be  seen  at  El  Panal,  where 
the  old  Don  asserts  there  is  a fortune  in  gold,  and  to  any  one 
who  will  go  there  and  regenerate  the  works  he  offers  to  advance 
the  necessary  capital. 

El  Retiro,  already  described  as  situated  on  the  Guayape,  is 
said  to  have  been  formerly  worked  by  a native  of  Honduras 
named  Pedro  Herrero.  To  prevent  the  workmen  from  defraud- 
ing him,  he  allowed  them,  in  addition  to  their  wages,  the  use  of 
his  tools,  and  the  privilege  of  working  for  themselves  two  days 
in  the  week.  The  remaining  four  days’  work  were  reserved  for 
himself,  and  he  is  stated  to  have  received  sixteen  or  twenty 
ounces  of  gold  every  Saturday  night.  But,  added  my  inform- 


INTOXICATING  FISH.  417 

ant,  they  always  lost  the  fine  gold,  which  is  found  in  great 
quantities  in  the  sand,  by  their  careless  washing. 

Another  place  on  the  Guayape,  called  Alajagua,  was  once  ap- 
propriated by  an  old  widow,  who  employed  many  workmen  in 
gold-washing.  A pound  of  gold  to  the  hand  is  claimed  to 
have  been  taken  out  at  this  place  for  many  successive  days ; 
but  one  day,  following  the  lead  under  a clitf  of  earth  and  rocks, 
the  whole  caved  in  and  killed  five  men.  The  padre  came  and 
cursed  the  spot,  designated  by  two  peaked  rocks,  since  which 
none  have  had  the  temerity  to  work  there,  after  exhuming  the 
bodies. 

Very  rich  mines  are  reported  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  de  Es- 
pana,  emptying  from  the  southward  into  the  Guayape.  These 
places  were  formerly  worked  by  the  Spaniards,  from  which  the 
river  derives  its  name.  The  gold  is  very  deep,  for  which  rea- 
son the  place  is  not  worked  except  in  the  ancient  diggings. 

A volume  of  similar  accounts  might  be  written  to  illustrate 
the  former  and  present  mineral  wealth  of  Olancho.  These  bear 
exaggeration  on  their  face,  and  I have  repeated  them  as  near 
verbatim  as  possible,  that  the  reader  may  form  his  own  opinion 
of  their  reliability.  The  best  veins  of  Olancho  were  probably 
exhausted  centuries  since,  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  dig- 
gings yet  exist  that  would  prove  lucrative  if  properly  worked. 

A few  days  after  my  arrival  at  Lepaguare,  I rode  with  Don 
Toribio  to  a place  near  the  junction  of  the  Almendarez  and 
Guayape,  where  a chilpate  fishing  was  to  take  place.  On  ar- 
riving at  the  river,  we  found  a small  party  of  natives  collected 
on  the  banks  of  the  smaller  stream,  engaged  in  spreading  withes 
and  a network  of  branches  below  a little  series  of  falls  or  rapids 
above  which  the  fish  were  known  to  exist  in  great  quantities, 
especially  the  cuyamel , weighing  often  fifteen  pounds  when  full 
grown. 

Tiie  preparations  completed,  a few  women  entered  the  river 
about  fifty  yards  above  the  rapids,  bearing  with  them  a common 
batea  containing  a decoction  of  a vine  pounded  to  a pulp,  and 
known  as  the  chilpate  (possibly  the  Sapindus  saponaria ),  and 
which  may  be  gathered  in  any  required  quantity  in  the  plains 
and  along  the  banks  of  the  streams.  This  possesses  the  singu- 
lar quality,  when  mixed  with  the  waters  of  a running  stream,  of 

Dd 


418  EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 

stupefying  the  fish,  causing  them  to  float  helplessly  on  the  sur- 
face. When  carried  clown  the  stream,  they  are  taken  by  hand 
from  the  network  below.  The  signal  being  given,  this  novel 
fishing  apparatus  was  directed  against  the  inhabitants  of  Al- 
mendarez. 

As  the  pale  discoloration  extended  with  the  influence  of  the 
gentle  current,  my  companion  shouted  to  me  to  watch  its  ef- 
fects. All  eyes  were  riveted  upon  the  water.  In  a few  minutes 
a commotion  was  visible  beneath  the  surface,  and  frequent  flaps 
from  the  tails  of  sundry  inebriated  fish  indicated  the  working 
of  the  drug. 

The  natives  now  ran  below  the  falls  to  catch  the  victims  who 
came  floating  down,  some  with  fins  or  tails  feebly  wagging  above 
the  water,  others  “half-seas  over,”  “regularly  laid  out”  on  their 
backs,  and  others  as  if  under  the  effects  of  a systematic  “drunk,” 
struggling  against  the  liquor,  and  apparently  determined  to  keep 
on  their  fins  to  the  last  gasp.  There  were  fish  of  all  sizes,  from 
the  cuyamel  down  to  minnows.'  It  was  the  most  ludicrous,  and, 
at  the  same  time,  strange  scene  I had  witnessed  in  Olancho, 
and  seemed  an  unpardonable  corruption  of  respectable  fish  from 
their  original  teetotal  habits. 


Cl II LP ATE  FISHING. 


AN  UNTOWARD  EVENT. 


419 


Below  the  rapids  the  operations  were  not  less  curious.  With 
the  rapid  accumulation  of  the  victimized  fish,  we  all  rushed  into 
the  water  and  threw  them  out  upon  the  bank.  There  were 
some  five  dozen  in  all,  among  which,  besides  those  already 
mentioned,  were  guapotes,  peces,  and  a pretty  species  of  speck- 
led trout.  The  smallest  of  the  prisoners  were  thrown  back  into 
rhe  water,  where,  after  floating  a while,  they  gradually  became 
sober  and  swam  away. 

The  genuine  sportsman  will  call  this  sad  pot-hunting,  and 
the  disciples  of  Sir  Isaac  sneer  at  such  a wanton  desecration  of 
Nature’s  gifts ; but  let  them  live  a few  months  on  the  general 
fare  of  Honduras,  and  their  scruples  would  probably  yield  to  an 
Olancho  appetite.  At  least,  I consoled  myself  in  this  manner 
while  discussing  a glorious  fry  of  oar  victims  on  the  following 
morning. 

I was  just  congratulating  myself  on  the  successful  issue  of 
my  contract  with  the  Zelayas  when  a courier  arrived  from  Ju- 
tecalpa  with  the  news  that  the  two  brothers  there  had  refused 
to  sign  it  on  any  conditions.  The  Guatemalans  had  invaded 
Gracias  with  Guardiola,  a sworn  enemy  to  all  Americans,  at 
their  head.  They  feared  his  vengeance,  and  a war  between 
Olancho  and  the  rest  of  Honduras  in  consequence.  The  famous 
Kinney  Expedition,  with  the  claims  to  the  Mosquito  Coast 
(which  perhaps  might  extend  into  Olancho  itself),  had  arrived 
at  San  Juan.  The  news  had  just  arrived  from  Truxillo,  and 
there  was  an  end  to  the  negotiations.  The  brothers  at  Lepa- 
guare  refused  to  sign  the  contract  unless  all  would  agree  to  it,  and 
I now  saw  my  air-castle  tumbling  ingloriously  to  the  ground. 

I was  not  long,  however,  in  persuading  the  general  to  ride 
back  to  J utecalpa,  where  we  arrived  at  night,  and  were  received 
with  the  usual  kindness.  Another  week  here  spent  in  arguing, 
persuading,  and  arranging,  at  last  brought  round  the  disaffected 
brothers,  who  signified  their  assent  to  the  contract.  It  was  sign- 
ed, sealed,  and  attested  to  by  the  proper  authorities. 

On  the  last  night,  my  old  friend,  Senor  Francisco  Ayala, 
jefe  politico,  allowed  me  to  examine  the  departmental  records 
of  Olancho.  These  do  not  go  back  to  the  earliest  settlement  of 
the  state  by  the  Spaniards.  At  Manto,  the  former  capital  after 
the  destruction  of  Olancho  Viejo,  are  deposited  the  records  pre- 


420 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


vious  to  1671,  which  was  probably  the  year  in  which  the  seat 
of  government  was  removed  to  Jutecalpa. 

The  paper  was  coarse,  but  strong,  bearing  the  government 
stamp.  The  documents  are  written  in  obsolete,  abbreviated 
Spanish,  and  almost  obliterated  with  age  and  the  inroads  of  in- 
sects. Some  of  them  were  quite  unintelligible.  The  patents 
from  the  Spanish  crown,  conveying  the  present  Zelaya  estates  to 
Sehor  Geronimo  Zelaya  in  1540,  are  said  to  be  in  good  preser- 
vation at  Manto.  This  cavalier,  as  Don  Santiago,  his  descend- 
ant, affirms,  came  over  with  Pedro  de  Alvarado,  and  was  the 
first  settler  in  the  valley  of  the  Guayape.  As  the  history  of 
the  early  settlements  in  Central  America  is  accurately  described 
by  the  Spanish  historians,  the  fact,  if  true,  can  be  easily  estab- 
lished. The  Don  gave  me  a detailed  account  of  the  expedition 
of  his  doughty  ancestor  into  Olancho,  the  attacks  and  cattle- 
thefts  by  the  savages,  the  discovery  of  the  gold,  and  the  rapid 
peopling  of  these  beautiful  valleys  by  the  enraptured  Spaniards, 
who  at  last  made  Olancho  what  it  has  since  remained,  the  great 
cattle-raising  section  of  Central  America. 

Another  hearty  adieu,  and  I took  my  final  leave  of  Jutecalpa, 
and  from  Lepaguare  two  days  afterward,  where  the  whole  fam- 
ily rode  out  with  me  across  the  plain  to  Cerro  Gordo,  where  we 
dismounted,  and,  in  turn,  embraced  after  the  fashion  of  the  coun- 
try. The  party,  excepting  Don  Toribio,  then  turned  back,  wav- 
ing their  handkerchiefs  until  an  intervening  copse  hid  them  from 
view.  My  companion  gave  me  a particular  charge  for  Teguci- 
galpa, and  then,  grasping  my  hand  for  the  last  time,  turned  his 
horse  toward  the  hacienda  and  spurred  homeward. 

I confess  to  a feeling  of  downright  home-sickness  as  I rose  the 
hill  and  gazed  back  upon  the  lovely  valley,  stretching  away  like 
a sea,  and  glowing  in  the  beauties  of  the  fresh  morning.  The 
slant  sunbeams  mingled  with  the  mists  and  spangled  dews  of 
the  plain.  Far  away  appeared  a piece  of  the  even  more  beauti- 
ful valley  of  Galeras,  teeming  with  cattle,  and  green  as  an  em- 
erald. Toward  the  hacienda  I observed  Don  Toribio  dashing 
along,  and  the  herds  of  cattle  and  horses  starting  aside  as  the 
bold  horseman  scampered  past.  It  was  a scene  peculiar  to 
Olancho.  I stood  in  precisely  the  same  spot  whence,  some 
months  before,  after  a weary  scramble  on  mule-back  among  the 


GOOD-BY  TO  OLANCHO. 


421 


mountains,  we  had  come  suddenly  out  upon  this  landscape  of 
flowers,  and  blue  and  purple  mountains.  The  same  route  was 
again  to  be  traversed,  but  the  prospect  of  the  lonely  journey  was 
now  divested  of  the  charm  of  novelty,  and  I looked  in  fancy  be- 
yond the  shores  of  Central  America,  to  where  the  stir  and  life 
of  civilization  invited  with  an  enchantment  more  powerful  than 
the  soft  climes  and  gorgeous  scenery  of  the  tropics.  The  Amer- 
ican, to  fully  appreciate  his  native  land,  must  first  learn,  by  bitter 
deprivation  and  contrast,  its  incomparable  blessings.  I turned 
away  with  such  reflections  toward  the  steep  ascent,  up  which 
Roberto  had  already  urged  the  mules,  and,  as  I wheeled  into 
the  path,  gazed  my  last  upon  Olancho. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Guaymaca. — La  Nina  Alvina. — Talanga. — A night  in  the  House  of  Don  Gregorio 
Moncada. — Cofradilla. — DonaTomasa. — Tegucigalpa. — Hospitable  Reception. 
— Silver. — The  Minerales  of  Tegucigalpa. — A trip  to  Santa  Lucia. — La  Mina 
Grande. — Silver  Mill. — The  Road.— Descent  into  la  Mina  de  San  Martin. — 
Method  of  extracting  the  Ores. — La  Mina  de  Gatal. — Want  of  Machinery  and 
Knowledge. — Former  Productiveness. — Present  Yields. — Speculations  on  the 
Origin  of  Silver. — A Taladro. — A Campana. — Wandering  Miners. — Ascent  of 
el  Monte  de  Santa  Lucia. — Villa  Nueva. — La  Mina  de  Pena. — La  Mina  de 
Zopilote. — Primitive  Smelting  process. — Copper-hill  of  El  Chimbo. — Captain 
Moore. — Legends  of  the  Mines. — La  Mina  de  Guayabillas. — Story  of  its  Dis- 
covery.— The  Arjenal  Family. — English  Enterprise. — “LaFatalidad  del  Pais.” 
— Last  Days  of  the  Guayabilla  Mine. — Departure  for  Home. — Arnapala  again. 
— The  War. — “The  Walker  Contract.” — Bay  of  Fonseca  by  Moonlight. — At 
Sea  in  a Launch. — Realejo. — San  Juan. — An  American  Steam-ship. — Home. 

The  route  through  the  mountains  toward  Campamento  has 
already  been  described.  Passing  the  night  there,  we  resumed 
the  journey  at  early  dawn,  and  renewed  our  acquaintance  with 
the  Senora  Hipolita  and  her  pretty  daughter  at  Guaymaca  at 
evening.  The  latter  disappeared  a few  minutes  after  my  ar- 
rival, and  shortly  afterward  returned  with  my  present  of  a for- 
mer occasion  made  up  into  a becoming  dress.  There  was  as 
little  to  eat  as  ever  in  lonely  Guaymaca,  but  the  scriptural  prov- 
erb was  happily  illustrated  in  this  instance,  for  the  Nina  Alvina 
returned  directly  from  an  exploring  expedition  around  the  village, 
laden  with  a live  fowl,  some  frijolitas  and  eggs.  After  supper 
the  young  woman  deigned  to  cut  up  some  excellent  tobacco  for 


422 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


my  pipe,  and  in  the  morning  a substantial  breakfast  was  ready 
cooked,  in  readiness  for  the  day’s  journey. 

From  Guaymaca  to  Talanga  is  a journada,  or  one  day’s  jour- 
ney. We  reached  the  town  at  sunset,  and  made  directly  for  the 
adobe  house  of  our  former  host,  Don  Gregorio.  We  found  him 
in  the  midst  of  his  game-cocks,  of  which  he  owned  eight,  each 
tied  by  the  leg  to  a square  block  of  wood,  and  some  crowing  de- 
fiance even  at  that  late  hour. 

The  Don  apologized  for  the  non-appearance  of  the  senora,  who, 
he  hinted  with  a consequential  air,  was  soon  to  present  him  with 
an  addition  to  the  Moncada  family.  As  night  set  in,  the  bells 
of  the  church  announced  the  hour  of  oracion.  The  women  in 
the  house  (there  were  five)  fell  to  praying  with  such  volubility 
that  I imagined  the  important  event  could  not  be  far  away. 

At  eight  o’clock  the  candle  was  extinguished,  and  the  family 
retired — to  sleep ; but  for  me,  to  tumble  on  the  bench  which  I 
had  taken  possession  of  for  want  of  room  to  swing  the  ham- 
mock. To  sleep  here  was  impossible.  A number  of  pigs  had 
lain  down  outside  the  door,  brought  thither  by  the  cold,  and 
their  continual  wrangling  for  room  or  the  inside  place,  accom- 
panied with  a querulous  squeaking,  continued  until  after  mid- 
night, when,  wearied  and  irritated  into  a fever  of  rage,  I opened 
the  door  and  smashed  a huge  club  among  them,  sending  the 
party  grunting  into  the  Plaza.  The  night  was  cold  and  cloudy, 
and  the  village  silent  as  the  grave.  Closing  the  door,  I essayed 
to  sleep  again,  but  the  pigs,  with  several  companions,  shortly 
returned  to  their  post.  A young  goat,  confined  in  the  kitchen, 
commenced  to  bleat  at  regular  intervals  for  the  rest  of  the  night, 
while  the  frequent  demands  of  Don  Gregorio’s  progeny  gave 
rise  at  times  to  interesting  family  debates,  the  whole  conducted 
in  the  blackest  darkness. 

Toward  morning,  the  fatigue  of  the  past  day’s  ride  across  the 
treeless  mountain-tops  gained  the  ascendency  over  all  other 
sentiments,  and,  despite  the  assaults  of  fleas,  who  swarmed  in 
the  hut,  I had  just  fallen  into  a doze,  when  the  game-cocks,  who 
had  been  tied  inside  the  house  for  safety,  commenced  their 
morning  screams  until  daylight,  when,  feverish,  exhausted,  and 
half  crazy,  I crept  into  the  street,  and  ordered  Roberto  to  find 
the  animals  and  get  us  out  of  San  Diego  de  Talanga  at  once. 


ENTERTAINMENT  AT  C OF  li  A DIE  LA. 


423 


Despite  the  fleas  and  the  infernal  din,  Don  Gregorio  slum- 
bered calmly  in  his  corner,  and  grumbled  drowsily  when  the 
women  invaded  the  house  and  drove  him  and  his  game-cocks 
into  the  street.  Roberto  was  two  hours  finding  the  mules ; and 
when  I had  given  him  up,  and  resolved  to  buy  one  and  proceed 
alone,  he  suddenly  appeared  with  them  from  an  unexpected  quar- 
ter. In  another  half  hour  they  were  packed,  and,  mounting  my 
own,  I bid  a hasty  adieu  to  San  Diego. 

I have  since  thought  that  the  haste  of  our  departure  and  the 
absence  of  the  usual  profuse  compliments  left  Don  Gregorio 
somewhat  in  doubt  as  to  my  gratitude  and  good  breeding.  Be 
that  as  it  may,  I thought  another  hour  in  Talanga  (whose  hor- 
rors I have  feebly  portrayed)  would  have  made  me  a candidate 
for  the  insane  asylum.  May  the  increasing  responsibilities  of 
Don  Gregorio  Moncada  live  to  prove  a pride  and  honor  to  him! 
a result  greatly  to  be  doubted  while  their  father  confines  his  oc- 
cupation to  smoking  paper  cigars  and  cock-fighting. 

Anxious  to  conclude  the  journey,  which  had  now  become  one 
of  intense  pain  from  a wounded  foot,  which  prevented  my  wear- 
ing a boot,  I left  Roberto  behind  and  pursued  the  path  alone. 
The  sun  beat  down  mercilessly  upon  bare  limestone  mountains 
of  such  dazzling  whiteness  that  the  traveler  must  often  keep  a 
handkerchief  over  his  face  to  preserve  his  eyesight. 

At  dark,  the  huts  of  Cofradilla  appeared  unexpectedly  in  sight, 
where  the  pain  obliged  me  to  dismount  at  the  first  cabin.  Good 
luck  directed  me  to  that  of  the  principal  person  there,  an  old 
deaf  woman,  who  had  recently  come  here  from  Tegucigalpa.  My 
request  for  lodgings  was  answered  with  a shake  of  the  head 
and  the  words  “Soy  sorda , senor,"  at  the  same  time  putting  her 
hand  to  her  ear.  I raised  my  voice  with  no  better  success,  when 
a young  negress  came  to  the  door,  and  by  signs  intimated  my 
desire. 

After  several  questions  relative  to  my  destination,  and  be- 
coming satisfied  that  I was  not  connected  with  the  Revolution, 
permission  was  granted,  though  the  old  woman  wras  suspicious 
of  my  dress  and  foreign  accent,  and,  above  all,  of  my  not  having 
a servant,  without  which  no  Caballero  travels  in  Honduras.  Her 
fears  vanished  after  my  explanations,  and,  on  displaying  some 
copper  money,  she  prepared  a supper  of  dried  meat  and  tortillas. 


424 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


On  learning  I was  an  American , the  old  woman  began  to  be- 
siege me  for  remedios  for  her  deafness ; and  not  wishing  to  dis- 
appoint her,  and  at  the  same  time  believing  in  the  harmlessness 
of  my  prescription,  I recommended  diurnal  baths  of  hot  water 
(of  which  I thought  she  decidedly  stood  in  need),  and  lotions  of 
aguardiente  and  salt  to  be  applied  to  the  feet ! I felt  assured 
that,  should  her  hearing  return,  she  would  attribute  it  to  my  pre- 
scription, and  if  not,  that  the  most  celebrated  physicians  are  not 
always  infallible.  But  Dona  Tomasa — thus  she  was  named — 
need  apply  no  remedies.  Time,  that  grim  destroyer  of  all  our 
faculties,  had  laid  his  inexorable  hand  upon  her. 

A cold  norther,  attended  with  rain,  was  blowing  in  the  morn- 
ing at  daylight.  Roberto  had  not  yet  arrived.  At  Rio  Aba- 
jo,  however,  he  overtook  me,  and  gave  me  a fearful  account  of 
losing  his  path,  and  falling  down  a declivity  in  the  inky  dark- 
ness of  the  night.  The  horse  was  so  injured  as  to  make  it  nec- 
essary to  kill  him,  and  his  own  bloody  appearance  proved  his 
narrow  escape.  The  remaining  animals  were  turned  out  to 
graze,  when,  mounting  fresh  mules,  we  started  for  Tegucigalpa, 
where  my  old  friend,  Senor  Losano,  welcomed  me  with  his  usual 
cordiality. 

My  account  of  Olancho  occupied  the  entire  evening.  The 
old  Don  scrutinized  my  contract,  and,  with  true  Spanish  enthu- 
siasm, already  looked  forward  to  the  renewal  of  the  “good  old 
colony  times”  as  he  remembered  them  when  a boy.  He  de- 
voted the  following  day  to  circulating  about  the  town  the  brill- 
iant future  of  Olancho  under  the  auspices  of  los  Americanos  del 
JVorte,  and  before  a week  there  were  two  parties  in  Tegucigalpa, 
one  opposed  to  the  entrance  of  Americans  into  Olancho,  and  the 
other  loud  in  their  expressions  in  favor  of  the  future  “regen- 
erators of  the  country.” 

The  invasion  by  the  Guatemalans  had  drawn  the  government 
into  the  department  of  Gracias,  where  President  Cabanas  was 
preparing  to  attack  the  enemy.  The  signature  of  the  Minister 
of  Foreign  Relations  being  necessary  for  the  validity  of  my  con- 
tract with  the  authorities  in  Olancho,  the  document  was  dis- 
patched to  Llanos  de  Santa  Rosa,  where  it  was  several  weeks 
under  executive  consideration  before  the  proper  seals  and  signa- 
tures could  be  affixed. 


THE  SILVER  REGION.  425 

During  this  time  I made  such  excursions  into  the  surround- 
ing country  as  my  lameness  would  permit,  to  continue  my  ex- 
aminations of  the  silver  mines  in  that  department.  In  a follow- 
ing chapter  I have  thrown  together  such  facts  as  I could  collect 
relating  to  these  mines,  which,  though  incomplete,  and  present- 
ing but  a superficial  view  of  their  value,  may  serve  to  show  the 
immense  treasures  stored  in  the  hills  of  Honduras  awaiting  the 
labor  and  intelligence  of  foreign  enterprise. 

The  gold  of  modern  discovery  has  widened  the  basis  of  our 
commerce,  and,  as  an  object  of  productive  industry,  has  given 
birth  to  two  new  commercial  centres  which  will  divide  between 
them  the  wealth  of  the  Pacific.  These  events  are  more  import- 
ant than  revolutions. 

But  if  gold  has  thus  established  for  itself  a new  dignity  and 
power  as  a cause  and  instigator  of  progress,  no  less  must  the 
virtue  of  silver  be  speedily  acknowledged,  when  its  production, 
like  the  sister  metal,  shall  fall,  once  for  all,  into  the  hands  of 
Anglo-Saxon  industry,  and  under  the  ken  of  its  prophetic  intel- 
ligence. 

Honduras,  west  of  the  Department  of  Olancho,  is  intersected 
with  veins  of  silver,  which  in  the  last  two  centuries  have  pour- 
ed many  millions  of  treasure  into  Europe,  and  have  even  com- 
peted with  the  richest  of  Peru  and  Mexico.  Its  secluded  posi- 
tion, away  from  the  routes  of  commerce,  has,  until  recently,  pre- 
vented its  receiving  the  attention  of  capitalists,  such  as  has 
given  so  powerful  an  impetus  to  the  mines  of  other  Spanish- 
American  republics.  In  the  Departments  of  Gracias,  Coma- 
yagua,  Choluteca,  and  Tegucigalpa,  hundreds  of  silver  veins  are 
known,  any  one  of  which,  worked  with  scientific  and  economical 
apparatus,  would  certainly  enrich  those  engaging  in  such  enter- 
prises. My  own  observations  were  confined  to  the  mines  of 
the  last-named  department,  where  every  facility  was  afforded  me 
for  inspecting  them. 

Tegucigalpa  contains  within  its  boundaries  ten  “ minerales," 
or  mining  districts,  each  of  which  has  its  group  or  cluster  of 
important  mines,  most  of  them  long  since  opened,  and  many  in 
good  working  condition.  In  company  with  Senor  Jose  Ferrari, 
I visited  the  mineral  of  Santa  Lucia,  near  Tegucigalpa.  A few 


426 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


hours’  ride  brought  us  to  the  summit  of  the  Santa  Lucia  range 
of  mountains,  though  to  our  right  a green  peak  arose  about  a 
thousand  feet  above  us.  From  our  position  we  had  a fine  view 
of  Santa  Lucia,  a small  but  prettily-built  town,  apparently  em- 
bowered in  trees,  and  adorned  with  a neat  white  church.  Mil- 
pas  and  wheat-fields  were  pointed  out  on  the  slopes  of  these 
ranges,  and  the  senor  mentioned  a grist-mill,  worked  by  ox-pow- 
er, in  one  of  the  villages  below. 

On  the  descent  toward  this  valley  we  turned  aside  to  exam- 
ine the  Mina  Grande,  celebrated  for  the  breadth  of  its  veins.  It 
is  the  joint  property  of  Senor  Ferrari  and  the  heirs  of  Francisco 
Losano.  The  principal  vein  is  eleven  varas  (thirty-three  feet) 
in  thickness,  and  yields  a good  working  percentage  to  the  ton 
of  ore.  As  yet,  only  four  escaleras  have  been  made,  although 
the  mine  was  formerly  the  property  of  the  Rosas,  a wealth}' 
Spanish  family.  They  had  conducted  the  works  but  two  years, 
when  the  independence  of  1821  cut  off  all  political  relations  with 
Spain,  when,  for  that  and  other  causes,  they  abandoned  the  mine, 
as  well  as  those  of  Gatal  and  San  Martin,  which  were  allowed 
to  fall  to  ruin.  The  entrance  to  the  principal  vein  is  situated 
on  a piece  of  pine-wooded  table-land,  near  the  summit  of  a 
mountain  of  limestone  on  the  highway  to  Santa  Lucia,  more  than 
4100  feet  above  the  sea. 

As  we  arrived,  two  old  Indians  were  pounding  up  the  rich 
ore  between  two  large  stones  ; but  even  by  this  rude  and  ineffi- 
cient process  they  earned  a fair  living,  and  a profit  for  the  pro- 
prietors. The  best-organized  works  employ  simple  machinery 
for  pounding,  which  consists  of  two  irregular  mill-stones  drag- 
ged around  in  a circular  stone  water-trough  by  mules  or  oxen 
pulling  #t  a long  beam  which  turns  on  a centre-post  like  an  old- 
fashioned  cider-mill.  This  is  sometimes  called  a trapiche,  but 
oftener  a rastrar,  or  drag.  Those  which  I saw  elsewhere  moved 
stupidly  around,  crushing,  it  may  be,  half  a ton  a day  very  im- 
perfectly. The  crushed  ore  is  treated  by  fire  or  quicksilver,  or 
both,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  substance.  A good  crush- 
ing-machine of  modern  make,  such  as  is  used  by  quartz  miners 
in  California  and  Australia,  would  do  more  than  twenty  times 
the  work  of  these  rickety  mills,  and  with  nearly  as  little  cost. 
A single  mill  would  prepare  ore  enough  in  the  Mina  Grande  to 


SANTA  LUCIA.  427 

yield  immense  sums,  if  one  may  judge  by  the  returns  from  the 
present  ignorant  methods  pursued.'* 

The  mayor-domo  told  me,  with  great  Spanish  pathos,  that 
they  lost  half  their  silver  by  bad  machinery  and  stupid  manage- 
ment. As  evidences  of  the  extent  of  former  workings  and  the 
careless  methods  pursued,  I noticed  many  heaps  of  refuse  ore 
and  rock  ( respalde ),  some  of  which  would  be  a fortune  to  a Yan- 
kee miner,  with  his  crushers  and  his  science. 

We  descended  from  the  Mina  Grande,  with  a noble  landscape 
before  us,  through  a growth  of  shrubbery  and  pitch-pine.  A sea 
of  hills,  forested  to  their  crowns,  lay  around  us.  Arrived  at  the 
foot  of  this  eminence,  we  began  the  ascent  of  another,  near  the 
summit  of  which  stands  the  mining  aldea  of  Santa  Lucia. 

This  village  is  deserted  in  winter  by  the  scantily-clad  natives, 
owing  to  the  inclement  weather,  frequent  hail-storms,  it  is  said, 
then  passing  over  it.  During  the  summer  it  is  a place  of  fre- 
quent resort  from  Tegucigalpa,  for  the  healing  qualities  attribu- 
ted to  the  atmosphere,  and  the  thousands  of  roses  growing  on 
the  slopes  of  the  mountain. 

Our  tough  little  mules  struggled  up  the  steep  road,  and  at 
eleven  o’clock  we  had  reached  the  highest  point,  4320  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  temperature  did  not  exceed  72°  Fahrenheit  at 
noon.  We  stopped  at  a small  adobe  belonging  to  Senor  Fial- 
les,  and  the  servant,  who  was  loaded  with  provisions,  soon  spread 
an  excellent  dinner,  of  which  we  gratefully  partook  after  the 
toil  of  the  morning.  After  dinner  and  a comfortable  smoke  we 
resumed  our  journey,  traversing  by  a rough  road  a dense  forest 
for  several  miles,  and  arrived  at  two  o’clock  before  a small  ham- 
let of  adobe  houses,  the  property  of  Senor  F errari,  one  of  which 
covered  the  entrance  of  the  great  San  Martin  Mine,  said  to  be 
the  richest  in  the  district. 

* Since  leaving  Honduras,  I have  been  informed  that  Dr.  Charles  Doratt,  a 
gentleman  of  scientific  knowledge  in  mining  matters,  has  assumed  the  manage- 
ment of  two  mines  near  Tegucigalpa,  which  for  some  years  previously  had  been 
worked  to  little  advantage  by  the  natives,  and  that,  since  the  commencement  of 
his  superintendence,  the  mines  have  yielded  a large  amount  of  silver,  all  of  which 
has  been  saved  in  the  melting  process  by  the  superior  knowledge  of  the  foreign- 
er. These  mines,  which  were  formerly  offered  for  sale,  are  now  not  to  be  pur- 
chased at  any  reasonable  sum,  though  their  intrinsic  value  has  not  increased. 
Hundreds  of  other  mines  await  the  magic  influence  of  American  and  European 
intelligence  to  make  them  equally  remunerative. 


428 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


The  largest  adobe  in  the  little  group  was  designated  by  our 
conductor  as  a store-house,  where  the  njost  valuable  ore  is  col- 
lected until  it  can  be  carried  to  the  mill,  three  miles  distant. 
Another  house  served  as  the  residence  for  the  mayor-domo,  and 
a third  for  workmen.  The  entrance  to  the  mine  is  on  the  brow 
of  the  mountain,  looking  northeastward  against  a spur  of  the 
Cordilleras  called  the  Lapaterique  range,  which  divides  the  De- 
partment of  Comayagua  from  that  of  Tegucigalpa.  Some  of  its 
peaks  are  among  the  highest  in  the  state.  Through  a gap  or 
depression  in  this  spur  we  saw  the  distant  peak  of  Comayagua, 


CONE  OF  COMAYAGUA. 


near  the  city  of  that  name,  rising  like  a pyramid  of  indigo  in  the 
clear  evening  air.  The  foliage  of  the  great  valleys  and  hill- 
sides which  environed  us  was  diversified  with  varied  tints,  the 
brighter  shades  of  oak  and  shrubbery  contrasting  with  the  ever- 
green darkness  of  the  pines. 

We  prepared  for  a descent  into  the  Mina  de  San  Martin  by 
first  taking  each  a “ stiff  horn”  of  aguardiente  to  guard  against 
the  subterranean  cold.  Then,  with  a naked  Indian,  bearing  a 


DOWN  IN  A SILVER  MINE. 


429 


tallow  candle,  to  precede  us,  and  another,  in  similar  costume,  to 
bring  up  the  rear,  we  began  our  descent  into  the  “ cellarage.” 

Before  entering  the  mine  I noted  down  the  miners’  vocabulary, 
which  includes  a variety  of  technical  expressions.  The  ore  it- 
self, which  they  call  brosa , is  a combination  or  mixture  of  crys- 
tallized minerals  : limestone,  quartz,  sulphuret  of  lead,  of  anti- 
mony, of  iron,  and  of  copper,  fill  up  the  irregular  fissure,  or 
break  in  the  mass  of  the  respalde  or  live  rock.  A vein  of  ore 
(veta)  may  lie  between  two  vast  beds  of  flat  rock  like  a sheet 
between  two  blankets,  and  penetrating  into  the  mountain  ; or  it 
may  be  simply  the  contents  of  a crack  or  fissure,  descending 
into  the  lower  regions  of  the  earth  to  an  incalculable  depth. 

The  metal  [metal)  sometimes  discovers  threads  of  pure  silver, 
penetrating  the  crevices  of  the  rock  like  the  fibrous  roots  of  a 
plant;  but  the  quantity  of  this  is  never  great,  and  the  best 
mines  are  those  that  furnish  a steady  yield  of  rock-ore  or  brosa. 
It  is  probable  that  the  sulphurets  of  silver,  antimony,  copper, 
mercury,  lead,  and  iron,  which  are  found  in  these  crevices,  have 
risen  up,  either  in  the  form  of  vapor  or  of  lava  (liquid  rock),  from 
volcanic  furnaces  in  the  deep  chambers  of  the  earth. 

We  entered  first  what  is  called  a fronton,  or  horizontal  cham- 
ber or  drift ; but  this  terminated  immediately  over  a perpendic- 
ular shaft  or  well,  in  mining  language  a jpozo.  Down  this,  pre- 
ceded by  our  guide,  we  commenced  a slow  and  cautious  back- 
ward climb,  by  means  of  an  upright  log  of  oak,  with  notches  cut 
in  it  by  way  of  steps  for  the  feet  and  hands.  These  are  denom- 
inated escaleras,  and  are  usually  four  varas,  or  eleven  and  a 
quarter  feet  in  length  each.  They  are  similar  in  every  respect 
to  the  “ Samson  post”  leading  down  the  hatchway  of  a ship 
into  the  lower  hold. 

At  the  foot  of  each  escalera  is  a small  platform  of  earth,  just 
wide  enough  for  a landing-place ; the  drift  is  then  horizontal  for 
a few  feet,  and  a second  escalera  commences.  The  descent  into 
the  silent  gloom  of  one  of  these  mines  is  by  no  means  inviting. 
The  reflection  that  others  have  gone  before,  and  go  every  day 
without  danger,  is  hardly  sufficient  to  assure  one.  At  the  foot 
of  the  second  escalera  the  darkness  became  impenetrable,  and 
here  was  the  commencement  of  a fronton , with  galleries  branch- 
ing out,  their  roofs  supported  on  either  side  by  walls  of  solid 


430 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


respalde,  cut  with  great  regularity,  and  the  roof  propped,  in  ad- 
dition, with  pillars  of  heavy  oaken  timber,  between  which  glit- 
tered bright  reflections  from  the  crystalline  ore.  The  air  of 
this  cavern  had  the  clammy  dampness  of  a neglected  dungeon. 
Half  way  down,  a faint  rumbling  sound  was  heard,  like  the  echo 
of  footsteps  in  a hollow  vault.  This  arose  from  the  blows  of 
the  miners  far  below  us. 

After  a fatiguing  descent,  we  found  ourselves  at  the  bottom  of 
the  mine,  at  a depth  of  164  feet:  the  temperature  at  this  point 
was  68°  Fahrenheit.  From  the  bottom  of  the  lower  escalera 
the  vein  had  taken  a more  horizontal  direction,  and  was  exca- 
vated in  caverns  with  arched  roofs,  which  now  re-echoed  to  the 
blows  of  the  miners,  who  struck  the  rock  with  pointed  bars  of 
iron,  breaking  off  portions  of  the  ore,  and  emitting  at  every  blow 
a peculiar  hollow  groan,  very  painful  to  hear  for  one  unaccus- 
tomed to  the  sound,  but  which  a tall  Herculean  fellow  assured 
me  was  necessary  to  the  barratero,  or  crowbar-man,  and  mate- 
rially eased  his  labor. 

The  cold  damp,  the  haggard  expression  communicated  to  all 
our  faces  by  the  candle-light  reflected  from  the  shining  ores,  the 
wild  and  unnatural  look  of  these  subterranean  workmen,  the 
dark  openings  leading  away  to  unknown  depths  and  distances 
into  the  solid  heart  of  the  earth,  the  idea  that  the  mountain 
hanging  overhead  might  at  any  moment  fall  in  and  exclude  us 
from  the  light  of  day — an  accident  for  which  the  miner  has  a 
word  in  his  dialect,  cdmpana — quite  satisfied  me  with  this  first 
exploration  of  a Honduras  silver  mine. 

One  of  the  workmen  drove  his  bar  into  a bank  or  shelf  of 
ore,  which,  after  some  drilling  and  tugging,  yielded  like  soft 
clay,  falling  out  in  pieces  of  from  ten  to  thirty  pounds  weight. 
We  pocketed  as  much  as  we  dared  ascend  with.  After  climb- 
ing over  yawning  chasms,  which  seemed  like  wells  of  liquid 
night,  we  arrived,  panting  and  perspiring,  at  the  light  of  day. 

Each  renewed  the  pull  at  the  aguardiente  bottle,  which  the 
old  Don  seemed  to  consider  a panacea  to  be  resorted  to  on  all 
occasions.  While  we  were  resting,  the  mayor-domo,  a civil,  in- 
telligent fellow,  gave  me  a clear  account  of  the  methods  used  in 
extracting  the  silver,  which  is  elsewhere  described.  The  speci- 
mens of  ore  from  the  Santa  Lucia  and  other  mines  in  this  de- 


METHOD  OF  WORKING  THE  MINES. 


431 


partment,  amounting  to  seven  lots  in  all,  averaged,  when  treated 
by  American  chemists,  $72  to  the  ton;  the  lowest  being  $17  97, 
and  the  highest  $218  58  cents  per  ton ; but  the  workmen  of 
Senor  Ferrari  realize  no  approximation  to  such  an  amount. 

The  mayor-domo  complained  bitterly  of  the  lack  of  machin- 
ery and  knowledge  in  working  the  mine,  and  the  proprietor 
joined  him,  and  offered  a quarter  of  the  entire  proceeds  if  I would, 
of  my  own  knowledge,  or  with  the  assistance  of  a good  chemist, 
enable  him  to  save  his  great  losses  in  silver  and  quicksilver  by 
the  introduction  of  a good  modern  process. 

Nature  has  done  everything  for  Honduras;  man — at  least  in 
the  present  age — almost  nothing.  A silver  mine  in  Connecti- 
cut or  Delaware,  yielding  $20  of  silver  to  the  ton,  would  be  a 
valuable  property.  The  Germans  work  ores  of  argentiferous 
galena  which  yield  only  $5  or  $10  to  the  ton,  and  even  at  these 
figures  they  are  not  unprofitable.  Large  investments  of  capi- 
tal are  made  in  mines  of  an  inferior  quality  in  the  United  States, 
and  roads  constructed  to  reach  them,  which  cost  twice  what 
would  probably  be  required  to  control  the  access  to  Santa  Lucia. 
It  is  our  ignorance  of  Honduras  which  has  thus  far  allowed  us  to 
leave  it  a hidden  and  useless  treasure.  Not  many  years  can  pass 
before  this  darkness  will  have  been  dissipated  by  the  reports  of 
explorers,  and  a new  source  of  wealth  be  opened  to  the  world. 

Although,  under  the  Spanish  rule,  millions  of  treasure  were 
taken  from  the  mines  of  Honduras,  we  are  not  therefore  to  sup- 
pose that  the  methods  of  mining  were  in  those  days  any  better, 
or  the  arts  of  metallurgy  more  advanced.  The  secret  of  the 
great  yield  lay  in  the  number  of  workmen  employed  in  taking- 
out  and  crushing  the  ore.  Machinery  in  extracting,  and  skill 
in  amalgamating  and  refining,  such  as  is  now  practiced  in 
Germany,  has  from  the  first  been  entirely  wanting.  The  profits 
of  silver  mining  in  Honduras  under  the  Spanish  colonial  sys- 
tem is  shown  by  a report  of  the  Master  of  the  Mint  of  Tegu- 
cigalpa, and  published  in  1828  by  Henry  Dunn,  in  his  work 
on  Guatemala,  p.  223.  This  report  purports  to  set  forth  the 
amount  of  silver  and  gold  coined  at  the  Mint  for  the  fifteen 
years  immediately  preceding  and  fifteen  years  subsequent  to 
1810.  It  denies  that  this  is  all  the  mines  have  produced  in 
that  time,  but  that  great  quantities  had  been  exported,  “so  that, 


432 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


according  to  the  calculation  of  intelligent  persons,  scarcely  a 
tenth  part  of  the  metals  obtained  within  the  past  six  years  will 
have  passed  through  the  Mint.”  The  amount  of  silver  coined 
for  thirty  years  is  given  as  677,441  marks ; amount  of  gold 
coined,  1808  marks.  Total  value  of  gold  and  silver  coined  from 
1795  to  1825,  $6,004,214.  Mr.  Dunn,  however,  does  not  credit 
the  statement.  The  admirable  system  of  the  old  Spaniards,  in 
collecting  and  registering  statistics  of  the  productions  and  polit- 
ical affairs  of  the  colonies,  seems  to  have  died  out  with  the  ces- 
sation of  the  Spanish  rule,  and  a total  want  of  reliable  data  now 
debars  all  attempts  to  obtain  satisfactory  information  as  to  every 
branch  of  industry,  but  particularly  that  of  mining. 

The  method  of  raising  the  ore  from  the  mines  is  by  tanate- 
ros,  a class  of  workmen  whose  lifelong  labor  tends  wonderfully 
to  develop  their  muscular  system.  These  men  are  usually  In- 
dians, and  are  beautiful  in  form,  mild,  industrious,  and  obedient. 
The  same  labor  would  be  much  more  economically  performed  by 
a small  steam-engine.  More  than  two  millions  are  affirmed  to 
have  been  netted  long  previous  to  the  Revolution  from  the  San 
Martin  mine ! corresponding  with  more  than  thirty  thousand 
tons  of  good  ore,  allowing  the  usual  losses,  from  a mine  less  than 
170  feet  in  depth.  This  is  only  one  of  hundreds  of  statements 
of  a like  extraordinary  kind  made  to  strangers  visiting  the  sil- 
ver mines  of  Honduras.  Mr.  Squier  describes  the  new  mine  of 
Coloal,  in  the  Department  of  Gracias,  as  yielding  “the  somewhat 
startling  proportion  of  23.63  per  cent.,  or  8476  ounces  per  ton 
of  2000  lbs.  !”  A verbal  description  of  the  same  mine  given 
me  in  Tegucigalpa  set  down  the  yield  of  the  Coloal  mine  as 
even  greater  than  that.  Such  statements  appear  almost  fabu- 
lous, but  are  actually  realized  in  Honduras,  if  the  assertions  of 
hundreds  of  eyewitnesses  are  to  be  credited. 

From  San  Martin  we  rode  the  same  day,  not  a mile  distant, 
to  the  Gatal , another  celebrated  mine,  also  the  property  of  Se- 
nor  Ferrari.  Straight  yellow-pine-trees,  from  sixteen  to  eight- 
een inches  in  diameter,  stood  along  the  path.  These  appeared 
suitable  for  mine  timber,  but  are  not  used  when  the  roble  or 
mountain  oak  can  be  easily  obtained.  Notwithstanding  my  for- 
mer resolution,  I made  a second  descent  into  the  earth  at  this 
point,  and  found  the  excavations  of  the  Gatal  much  more  exten- 


INTERIOR  OF  A SILVER  MINE. 


433 


sive  and  imposing  than  those  of  the  comparatively  modern  San 
Martin.  Galleries  branch  off  to  the  right  and  left  to  a great 
distance,  following  the  course  of  a second  intersecting  bed  of 
ore,  which  traverses  the  larger  or  perpendicular  vein.  One  of 
these,  called  the  veta  azul,  or  blue  vein,  is  apparently  conform- 
able with  the  stratification,  like  a bed  of  trap  interposed  between 
two  layers  of  sandstone,  while  the  other  {veta principal)  is  a per- 
pendicular opening.  All  the  fissures  of  the  mountains,  and  con- 
sequently the  beds  of  ore  in  this  mineral , run  north  and  south 
except  the  veta  azul. 

To  explain  the  causes  of  these  fissures,  through  which  the 
precious  metals  have  oozed  up  to  the  surface  from  the  interior 
metallic  lava  lakes  of  the  earth,  may  hereafter  become  the  task 
of  professional  geologists.  Did  they  arise  in  vapor,  condensing 
upon  the  walls  of  the  fissures?  Were  they  dissolved  in  water 
heated  far  beyond  the  temperature  of  white-heat  iron,  and  pre- 
vented from  evaporating  by  the  pressure  of  solid  miles  of  rock 
above  them  ? Were  the  fissures  made  by  ancient  earthquakes, 
themselves  occasioned  by  the  bulging  of  the  earth  as  it  cooled  ? 
Did  the  metals  rise  molten  in  the  form  of  lava  ? One  thing  is 
beyond  dispute,  however,  that  the  causes,  whatever  they  may 
have  been,  pervaded  a wide  extent  of  territory,  and  were  deep- 
seated  in  the  earth.  Silver  mines  in  this  region  seldom  give 
out.  Labor  in  them  is  discontinued  for  long  periods  for  polit- 
ical and  other  reasons,  but  the  veins,  when  followed,  yield  in 
proportion  to  the  energy  and  means  of  the  proprietor.  They 
vary  in  width,  but  are  indefinitely  continued.  Their  supply  is 
inexhaustible. 

While  examining  the  interior  of  the  Gatal,  I observed  more 
carefully  the  method  of  propping  the  roof  of  the  excavation. 
Wherever  the  upper  surface  is  shaky  or  of  loose  stone,  heavy 
pieces  of  unhewn  timber — oak  is  preferred — are  set  under  as 
supports.  These  supports  are  not  placed  with  the  regularity 
nor  precision  of  those  of  European  mines,  where  this  work,  as  is 
well  known,  is  reduced  to  a science.  Certain  rules,  however, 
as  laid  down  in  the  “ Ordinanzas  de  la  Miner  ia ,”  and  enforced 
under  the  crown  throughout  Spanish  America,  are  yet  observed 
rigidly  in  Honduras,  and  in  these  provisions  are  made  for  the 
height,  width,  and  timbering  of  adits  and  galleries. 

E E 


434  EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 

The  weight  of  the  roof,  pressing  slowly  and  insensibly  down- 
ward, will  sometimes  bend  these  columns  like  reeds.  Frag- 
ments are  continually  dropping  from  the  roofs  of  the  galleries, 
but  to  these  dangers  the  miners  grow  accustomed.  As  I was 
standing  in  one  of  the  caves  which  are  left  by  the  excavations, 

I saw  over  my  head  a mass  of  several  tons’  weight  hanging  in 
the  crevice,  and  ready  at  any  moment  to  fall.  Apparently  the 
echo  of  the  voice  or  the  sound  of  a hammer  might  have  brought 
it  down.  One  of  the  miners  touched  me  without  speaking,  and 
pointed  up  to  the  rock.  I stepped  quietly  out  of  the  way  with 
a sensation  like  sea-sickness. 

A campana,  or  caving  in,  is  not  so  dangerous  an  affair,  how-  ' 

ever,  as  might  be  imagin- 
ed. Before  the  roof  comes 
down,  more  particularly 
when  the  strata  above  arc 
horizontal,  or  moderately 
inclined,  the  mine  gives 
out  a sound,  quivering  and 
grumbling  ; each  timber- 
prop,  set  close  to  its  fel- 
low, begins  to  sigh  and 
struggle  against  the  roof 
like  a weary  Hercules. 
The  crash  comes  on  slow- 
ly. A wind  blows  out  of 
the  mine ; the  miners  run 
to  the  main  gallery,  which 
is  always  secure,  and  a 
sound  is  heard  for  a few 
minutes,  not  loud,  but  aw- 
fully demonstrative  of  the 
forces  at  work. 

After  the  departure  of  the  Rosas  family  in  1823,  the  Gatal 
was  neglected,  and  the  galleries  fell  to  decay ; but  recently  they 
have  been  cleared,  and  are  now  worked  with  considerable  results. 
The  mouth  of  the  mine  is  several  hundred  feet  above  the  gen- 
eral table-land  of  the  district.  Far  below,  and  entering  the 
flank  of  the  mountain,  is  a subterranean  conduit,  or  water-drift. 


CAMPANA,  OR  CAVING  IN. 


LA  MINA  DE  GATAL. 


435 


called  by  the  miners  a taladro.  Out  of  this  runs  all  the  natu- 
ral drainage  of  the  mine  and  the  excess  poured  into  it  during  the 
rainy  season.  The  drain  penetrates  horizontally  and  upward  to 
the  galleries,  by  which  it  communicates  by  jyozos  or  wells  sunk 
in  the  remote  interior.  This  taladro  is  estimated  to  have  cost 
the  Rosas  $30,000,  when  labor,  under  an  arbitrary  government, 
was  far  less  expensive  than  at  present.  American  miners  would 
have  incurred  a far  greater  outlay  in  drifting  this  tunnel,  and 
without  it  the  Gatal  would  be  comparatively  valueless,  as  the 
drainage  would  then  be  conducted  by  the  only  other  method 
known  to  the  old  Spaniards,  or  those  of  the  present  day,  that 
of  carrying  the  water  in  hide  tahates,  or  panniers,  slowly  and 
laboriously  to  the  surface.  There  are  but  three  mines  in  the 
mineral  of  Santa  Lucia  furnished  with  taladros,  which,  in  the 
olden  time,  were  the  chief  expense  in  silver  mining,  and,  with  a 
view  to  their  construction,  after  a vein  was  discovered,  they  were 
opened  on  a height,  if  possible,  to  give  an  opportunity  for  sub- 
terranean drainage.  Farther  to  the  north,  on  the  summit  of  the 
hill,  is  a lumbrera , or  air-hole,  which  must  have  been  equally 
expensive,  as  it  penetrates  to  the  lower  galleries. 

As  we  rode  over  the  country,  many  places  were  pointed  out 
by  my  companions  where  silver  veins  had  been  traced ; and 
there  is  doubtless  a net-work  of  silver  penetrating  all  the  mount- 
ains of  this  district.  It  will  always  be  impossible  to  estimate 
the  amount  of  silver  contained  in  these  hills,  but  it  is  not  saying 
too  much  to  affirm  that  the  present  waste  and  wear  of  silver  in 
aits  and  commerce  might  be  supplied  from  them. 

Having  filled  a sack  with  the  ore  of  the  Gatal , I mounted 
with  the  rest,  and  we  turned  our  faces  homeward.  At  the  road 
side,  and  beneath  the  declivity  where  it  had  been  emptied,  I saw 
not  less  than  a thousand  tons  of  refuse  ore,  mixed  with  respal- 
de,  too  poor  for  transportation  by  mules  to  the  mill.  This  will 
yield  a remunerative  return  if  subjected  to  proper  machinery, 
and  can  be  had  for  the  asking.  Senor  Ferrari  assured  me  he 
did  not  raise  more  than  a ton  of  ore  a day  from  the  Gatal,  em- 
ploying several  workmen.  This  daily  ton  gives  occasional  em- 
ployment to  his  mill,  and  yields  an  average  of  twelve  and  a half 
marks,  equal  to  one  hundred  ounces  of  silver.  A mark  is  worth 
nine  dollars  of  good  coined  money  in  Tegucigalpa,  There  is 


436 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


scarcely  a mine  in  Santa  Lncia  that  does  not  average  a mark  to 
the  quintal  of  one  hundred  pounds,  even  with  the  present  rude 
method  of  working. 

The  native  miners  who  are  out  of  employment  haunt  the  old 
mines,  and  by  a rude  smelting  process  in  earthen  pots  obtain 
buttons  of  crude  silver,  worth  intrinsically  a little  less  than 
one  dollar  an  ounce.  These  are  every  day  brought  into  Tegu- 
cigalpa, and  exchanged  at  the  tiendas  for  the  common  necessa- 
ries of  life,  at  a large  discount.  This  is  one  source  of  the  silver 
earned  from  Balize  and  San  Miguel  to  London.  The  mayor- 
domo  of  Gatal  told  me  that  he  estimated  the  ore  of  that  mine 
and  San  Martin  to  average  ten  ounces  of  silver  to  the  arroba 
(or  25  lbs.)  of  ore.  This,  however,  I think  an  exaggeration,  as 
it  would  constitute  a yield  to  the  ton  which,  though  some  few 
mines  in  Honduras  have  been  known  to  exceed,  neither  the 
Santa  Lucia  nor  any  other  known  in  that  vicinity  at  present 
approach. 

After  packing  the  specimens  on  to  a mule  brought  for  the 
purpose,  and  bidding  adieu  to  the  mayor-domo  and  his  little 
flock  of  naked  workmen,  we  started  back  toward  Santa  Lucia. 
About  a mile  distant  to  the  southward,  the  two  peaks  of  Santa 
Lucia  towered  above  the  neighboring  ranges,  and  there  being 
yet  time  for  the  jaunt,  I proposed  to  Don  Jose  that  we  should 
make  its  ascent,  and  crown  the  day’s  adventures  with  a look 
from  the  summit.  He  laughed  at  the  idea,  and  remarked  that 
nobody  but  savages  in  the  olden  time  had  ever  been  up  there ; 
but,  with  a little  persuading,  he  agreed,  and  we  turned  toward 
the  heights  and  urged  our  animals  onward. 

The  path  or  trail,  which  led  us  before  through  pitch  and  yel- 
low pine  woods,  soon  became  lost  in  a tangle  of  brush  and  shrub- 
bery, and  here  we  sent  a man  forward  to  clear  the  way  with 
a machete , and,  leaving  the  other  to  watch  the  animals,  set  for- 
ward on  foot.  The  old  Don  grumbled  ominously  at  this  unus- 
ual method  of  proceeding,  but  scrambling  along,  and  at  intervals 
appealing  to  a small  bottle  of  the  usual  Central  American  stim- 
ulus, the  party  at  last  reached  the  plateau. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  describe  the  superb  scene  which  open- 
ed before  us.  At  a height  of  not  less  than  5000  feet,  and  not 
much  below  the  highest  of  the  Lapaterique  range,  we  stood  and 


LA  MINA  DE  PENA. 


437 


enjoyed  perhaps  the  most  extensive  prospect  in  Honduras.  The 
view  was  bounded  to  the  south  and  west  by  the  Lapaterique 
range,  forming  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley  of  Comayagua  be- 
yond. Still  farther  on,  the  horizon  appeared  through  a depres- 
sion in  these  mountains,  that  of  Comayagua  before  referred  to. 
To  the  east,  from  whence  came  a cool  gale,  was  an  apparently 
interminable  labyrinth  of  mountains,  losing  themselves  in  the 
distance,  and  the  whole  seemingly  carpeted  with  green.  North- 
ward the  eye  still  encountered  hills  and  valleys  like  the  waves 
of  a troubled  sea,  but  bathed  in  bright  sunshine.  Toward  Olan- 
cho  the  cones  of  Guaymaca  and  Tiupacente  were  plainly  visi- 
ble. Even  Don  Jose  ceased  complaining  of  his  legs,  and  amused 
himself  with  vain  efforts  to  distinguish  his  house  from  among 
the  mass  of  buildings  in  Tegucigalpa,  which  lay  with  its  white 
churches  and  green  palms  spread  like  a map  thousands  of  feet 
below. 

The  muttering  of  thunder  warned  us  that  a mountain  storm 
was  brewing  in  the  nearest  range,  and  we  hastened  to  regain 
our  mules.  It  was  dark  and  raining  when  we  regained  the  city, 
and  with  mutual  good-nights  each  clattered  over  the  pavements 
to  his  home. 

On  another  occasion  I visited,  with  Senor  Lardizabal,  the  min- 
eral of  Villa  Nueva,  or  New  Town,  about  six  miles  from  Tegu- 
cigalpa. The  object  of  this  journey  was  to  view  the  Mina  de 
Pena , or  rocky  mine,  so  called  from  the  extreme  hardness  of 
the  ore,  which  is  a combination  of  sulphurets  and  a ferruginous 
substance,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  red  sandstone. 

The  proprietor  has  had  possession  of  the  mine  for  some  years, 
and  after  the  first  expense,  finding  he  lacked  the  means  to  con- 
tinue to  work  it,  he  simply  performed  enough  annually  to  in- 
sure the  right  of  ownership,  and  has  since,  like  Mr.  Micawber, 
been  waiting  for  something  “ to  turn  up”  in  the  shape  of  a specu- 
lative foreigner,  with  the  means  and  will  to  prosecute  the  work. 

A streamlet,  known  as  the  Quebrada  de  Jacaliajpa , flows 
into  the  larger  river,  and  affords  all  the  water  requisite  to  sup- 
ply the  works.  A rude  piece  of  machinery,  designed  to  be  car- 
ried by  ox-power,  stands  near  the  entrance  of  the  mine.  Evi- 
dences of  old  workings  on  an  extensive  scale  yet  exist,  which 
have  been  carried  to  the  depth  of  forty  feet  by  five  or  six  esca- 


438 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


leras.  The  vein  runs  from  north  to  south,  and  has  been  open- 
ed from  three  directions,  one  well-built  tunnel  running  for  thir- 
ty yards  under  the  hill,  and  serving  the  double  purpose  of  tala- 
dro  and  camino.  When  Sehor  Lardizabal  reopened  and  “ de- 
nounced’' the  Mina  de  Pena , it  had  remained  partly  filled  with 


TALADEO,  OE  DRAIN.  TANATEEO— ORE-CARKIER. 


rubbish  and  stones  for  an  unknown  number  of  years,  and  work- 
men’s implements  were  found  fax  down  in  the  excavations,  as 
if  left  there  by  persons  escaping  in  great  haste  out  of  the  mine. 
The  proprietor  was  anxious  to  form  a contract  with  me,  and 
finally  did  so,  under  the  belief  that  los  Americanos  would  make 
his  fortune  and  their  own  in  one  year  from  the  commencement 
of  mining  operations.  The  ore  assayed  in  San  Francisco  at 
the  rate  of  $32  75  to  the  ton,  and  the  value  of  the  mine  rests 
more  in  the  great  size  of  the  vein  and  the  abundance  of  the  ore 
than  in  its  richness. 


GLEANING  SILVER  ORE.  439 

Near  this  mine  are  two  or  three  old  deserted  ones.  That  of 
la  Zopilote  is  the  resort  of  those  in  want  of  “ monte"  money, 


ENTRANCE  TO  A MINE. 


where  they  attack  the  old  workings,  and  always  succeed  in  pick- 
ing out  from  the  stony  walls  enough  to  pay  them  tolerably  well 
for  their  labor.  These  gleanings  are  generally  done  on  Sundays. 
A group  of  Indians  were  at  work  here  as  we  passed.  It  was  a 
gloomy  cavern  in  the  side  of  a hill,  overhung  with  aged  trees. 
An  old  woman  with  a couple  of  naked  children  was  boiling  a 
pot  over  a tire  of  pine  knots.  The  father  of  the  family,  with  a 
bar  of  iron  in  his  hands,  stood  at  the  entrance  of  the  cavern, 
waiting  until  we  should  pass  by,  and  near  by  I noticed  several 
heaps  of  ore. 

Wishing  to  see  this  primitive  metallurgist  at  work,  I alighted, 
and  remained  a while  in  the  shade,  observing  the  process.  A 
few  copper  dollars  and  a word  or  two  of  encouragement  induced 
him  to  recommence  for  me.  He  entered  the  low  drift,  creeping 
on  his  hands  and  knees,  and  soon  the  muffled  blows  of  the  bar 
announced  that  he  was  at  work  upon  a mass  of  ore  by  the  twi- 
light of  the  mine.  In  half  an  hour  or  less  he  came  out,  drag- 


440 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ging  behind  him  a sack  of  about  twenty  pounds  of  ore.  The 
man  and  woman  then  selected  each  a flat  stone,  and  gradually 
reduced  the  ore  to  a gravelly  dust.  The  fire,  meanwhile,  was 
fed  largely  by  the  children.  A smaller  earthen  pot,  holding  a 
portion  of  the  brosa,  was  set  deep  in  a bed  of  coals.  The  wood 
was  piled  over  it,  sulphureous  vapors  escaped,  and  when  the 
whole  had  burned  fiercely  a while  and  fallen  to  ashes,  our  son  of 
Tubal  Cain  drew  forth  the  pot,  and  turned  out  upon  the  ground 
a mass  of  gray,  black,  and  red  slag  and  ash,  out  of  which  I drew, 
with  a stick,  a button  of  hot  silver  weighing  perhaps  an  ounce. 
This  I purchased  for  little  more  than  half  its  value  in  the  mar- 
ket of  Tegucigalpa.  These  wandering  miners  form  a consider- 
able portion  of  the  country  population  in  the  minerales,  their 
occupation  yielding  them  a meagre  subsistence.  With  them  is 
said  to  rest  the  knowledge  of  many  rich  veins  in  the  recesses  of 
the  mountains,  to  which  they  resort  in  certain  seasons,  trans- 
mitting the  secret  through  many  generations.  It  is,  however, 
only  the  best  ores  that  can  be  treated  in  such  a primitive  fash- 
ion, and  the  loss  is  considerable. 

The  riches  of  Tegucigalpa,  however,  are  not  confined  to  the 
precious  metals.  Lead  in  the  form  of  sulphuret  is  almost  too 
common  to  attract  attention,  more  especially  in  the  mineral  of 
El  Plomo,  the  ores  of  which  are  a mixture  of  lead  and  silver,  the 
former  in  so  large  a proportion  as  to  make  them  unprofitable  by 
the  native  methods  of  working. 

The  hill  called  “ El  Chimbo,”  a few  leagues  southwest  of 
Tegucigalpa,  is  a curious  mixture  of  copper  dust  with  the  soil. 
The  surface  must  have  been  once  a solid  rock  of  copper  pyrites 
(sulphuret),  now  decayed  and  converted  into  a blue  rotten-stone. 
By  turning  up  the  sod,  copper  earth , in  lumps  like  potters’  clay, 
is  revealed.  From  a quantity  of  this  clay,  which  was  crushed 
and  panned  after  the  method  of  gold- washing,  there  remained  in 
the  bottom  dozens  of  glittering  specks  of  pure  copper.  Thou- 
sands of  tons  of  this  may  be  easily  obtained,  and  a perpetual 
stream  flows  near  by  to  facilitate  the  working  of  it. 

A few  weeks  before  leaving  Tegucigalpa  I was  introduced  to 
an  old  English  naval  officer,  Captain  Moore,  who  had  once  com- 
manded his  frigate,  but  had  now  retired  on  half-pay,  and  for 
fourteen  years  has  been  engaged  in  working  silver  mines  in  Cen- 


CAPTAIN  MOORE. 


441 


tral  America.  His  bright  blue  eye  and  energetic  gestures  de- 
noted an  activity  and  health  hardly  to  be  expected  from  his  ad- 
vanced age  and  snow-white  hair  and  beard.  He  had  lately  im- 
ported from  England  a costly  steam-engine,  purchased  with  the 
proceeds  of  his  mining  operations  in  the  vicinity  of  Yuscaran, 
where  he  employed  fifty  men  at  a real  (12J  cents)  per  day,  and 
was  at  last  realizing  a rapid  fortune.  The  natives,  with  whom 
he  is  generally  popular,  call  him  el  Capitan  Morey.  He  had 
expended,  he  said,  two  months  of  time  in  procuring  the  requi- 
site papers  for  landing  his  machinery,  and,  by  some  mistake,  ran 
a narrow  chance  of  its  confiscation  by  the  government.  Cap- 
tain Moore  spoke  of  Dunlop,  author  of  “ Travels  in  Central 
America,”  with  whom  he  had  several  agreeable  interviews  in 
1846.  Dunlop  refers  to  him  as  the  only  stranger  who  had  then 
attempted  working  the  silver  mines  of  Central  America.  Of 
some  of  the  mines  in  Honduras  the  most  wonderful  stories  are 
recounted,  many  of  which  would  form  the  basis  of  legends  sim- 
ilar to  those  relating  to  the  famous  Lake  of  Parima,  “El  Dora- 
do,” or  the  search  for  the  golden  city.  The  most  celebrated 
mines  in  the  state,  most  of  which  have  now  fallen  to  decay,  are 
those  of  Guayabilla,  Malacate,  Mairena,  Coloal,  Tabanco,  Gatal, 
El  Plomo,  Opoteca,  Cuyal,  San  Martin,  Caridad,  and  El  Corpus. 
Of  the  last  mentioned,  which  was  situated  in  the  Department  of 
Tegucigalpa,  Juarros  says,  “ El  Corpus  was  the  richest  mine 
in  the  kingdom.  It  produced  gold  in  so  great  a quantity  as  to 
excite  a suspicion  as  to  the  reality  of  the  metal,  and  a treasurer 
was  established  on  the  spot  for  the  sole  purpose  of  receiving  the 
king’s  fifths.”  These  twelve,  which  are  brilliant  examples  of 
the  mining  wealth  of  the  state,  are  each  the  subject  of  endless 
stories,  to  relate  which  would  require  a sizable  volume. 

Of  the  old  mining  traditions,  the  least  partaking  of  the  fabu- 
lous is  perhaps  that  relating  to  the  celebrated  Guayabilla,  or 
Wild  Guava,  still  asserted  by  the  old  people  to  have  been  the 
richest  silver  mine  ever  known  in  Central  America.  My  old 
friend,  Senor  Losano,  who  loved  nothing  better  than  a comfort- 
able hammock  and  a good  listener,  often  referred  to  this  mine, 
and  I heard  his  accounts  corroborated  by  many  others. 

The  mine  is  situated  within  the  mineral  of  Yuscaran,  and  was 
discovered  in  1771  by  a vaquero , Juan  Calvo,  who,  in  clamber- 


442 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ing  up  a rocky  steep,  dislocated  a huge  boulder,  which,  crashing 
down  the  mountain,  plowed  up  the  earth,  and  revealed  to  his 
wondering  gaze  filaments  of  silver,  spreading  among  the  inter- 
stices of  the  rocks  like  delicate  fibrous  roots.  He  had  discern- 
ment enough  to  know  that  his  discovery,  if  made  public,  would 
prove  of  little  benefit  to  him,  even  though  he  denounced  it ; and 
informing  himself  thoroughly  of  the  method  then  pursued  by 
the  proprietors  of  silver  mines,  he  smelted  with  an  iron  pot  large 
sums  of  silver,  with  scarcely  an  attempt  to  follow  the  vein  into 
the  mountain.  “But,”  said  the  narrator,  “this  sudden  pros- 
perity was  too  much  for  Juan  Calvo.”  Vanity  getting  the  bet- 
ter of  his  prudence,  he  one  day  let  fall  at  a fiesta  certain  words 
that  excited  the  attention  of  his  companions,  who  had  long  been 
jealous  of  his  jaunty  dress,  lofty  airs,  and  profusion  of  gam- 
bling-money. He  was  followed,  and  the  secret  discovered.  It 
soon  passed  by  purchase  or  otherwise  into  the  hands  of  the  rich 
Arjenal  family,  who  at  once  commenced  working  it.  That  im- 
mense amounts  of  silver  were  extracted  from  the  mine  for  many 
successive  years,  tradition  and  the  rapid  settlement  of  the  coun- 
try in  the  vicinity  immediately  after  its  discovery  testify ; but 
to  credit  that  “$12,000,000  were  taken  out  in  fifty  years"  is 
hardly  possible.  Yet  its  subsequent  history,  and  the  vast  sums 
known  to  have  been  extracted  aft^r  it  commenced  to  be  worked 
a second  time,  would  almost  warrant  the  belief  in  any  statement, 
however  prodigious. 

It  is  asserted  that  the  Arjenals,  after  the  Independence,  re- 
turned, with  other  loyal  families,  to  Spain,  and  that  their  estates 
were  confiscated,  or  allowed  to  fall  to  decay.  The  Central  Amer- 
ican Revolution,  however,  was  a bloodless  one,  and  there  was  no 
reason  for  those  families  who  remained  loyal  to  the  crown  to 
fear  violence  from  the  people.  It  was  not  until  1838  that  Mr. 
Bennett,  an  English  capitalist,  succeeded  with  his  associates  in 
getting  partial  possession  of  the  Guayabilla  mine.  At  that  time 
the  galleries  and  adits  were  mostly  choked  up  with  earth  and 
rubbish,  to  remove  which  a large  investment  was  necessary. 
The  enterprise  was  conducted  on  a plan  commensurate  with  the 
reported  wealth  of  the  mine. 

A company  of  Cornwall  miners  were  brought  from  England, 
some  of  the  descendants  of  whom  are  yet  in  Honduras ; scien- 


THE  GUAYABILLA  MINE. 


443 


tific  persons  were  engaged  in  the  service  of  the  association,  and 
the  mine  reopened,  after  a year’s  unremunerative  labor,  under 
the  best  native  and  foreign  auspices  in  Honduras.  It  would  be 
difficult  to  estimate,  from  that  period,  the  extraordinary  yield  of 
the  mine.  About  twenty  persons  are  now  living  in  Tegucigal- 
pa who  owned  small  shares  in  the  enterprise,  and  from  them  I 
heard  accounts  of  the  weekly  dividends  of  its  proceeds.  The 
ore,  said  to  be  the  richest  ever  known  in  Honduras,  was  found 
coated  with  virgin  silver  as  when  discovered  more  than  half  a 
century  before.  The  smelting  was  done  in  immense  ovens  con- 
structed near  the  works.  The  government,  partially  interested 
in  the  enterprise,  favored  the  operations.  The  associates,  both 
native  and  foreign,  became  rich.  Accounts  of  the  “good  old 
Guayabilla  days”  are  yet  circulated  in  Honduras,  and  the  ancient 
reputation  of  the  mine,  which  had  been  regarded  as  fabulous, 
was  re-established.  Large  amounts  of  silver  are  said  to  have 
been  shipped  via  Balize  to  England,  where  the  fame  of  the  mine 
soon  became  known.  The  workmen  are  represented  to  have 
been  paid  off  in  long  lines,  the  operation  occupying  from  noon 
until  dark  every  Saturday.  Here  was  a forcible  illustration 
of  the  value  of  foreign  capital,  labor,  and  skill  in  Honduras. 
“But,”  continued  my  informant,  “th  q fatalidad  del  pais  could 
not  brook  such  an  anomaly  in  the  history  of  Honduras.  Fer- 
rera,  the  murderous  instrument  of  the  aristocratic  faction,  was 
elected  by  fraud  to  the  presidency ; property  was  confiscated ; 
rich  men  murdered  or  driven  away ; all  respectable  and  honest 
people  banished ; all  affairs  reversed  and  ruined.” 

A gentleman  of  Guatemala,  a large  owner  in  the  Guayabilla, 
dying,  the  property  went  into  the  hands  of  his  brother,  a cun- 
ning lawyer  of  the  lowest  character  in  the  party  of  Ferrera. 
Hitherto  the  Guayabilla  had  been  comparatively  exempt  from 
the  outrages  of  the  Servile  faction : this  was  owing  to  the  influ- 
ence of  foreigners,  especially  Englishmen,  and  some  members  of 
the  Servile  party  who  were  interested  in  the  property.  The 
lawyer  of  Guatemala,  Don  Felipe  Jaureyui,  defrauded  the  heirs 
of  his  brother ; and  knowing  that,  at  the  close  of  Fen-era’s  ad- 
ministration, he  would  be  compelled  to  restore  the  property,  he 
resolved  meanwhile  to  make  the  best  of  it. 

One  of  the  sections  of  the  Ordinanzas  de  la  Mineria  pro- 


444 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


hibits  the  removal  of  those  natural  columns  of  rock  and  ore 
which  support  the  roof  and  arches  of  a mine.  In  the  Guayabilla 
mine  they  were  found  as  left  by  the  old  proprietors — of  solid  ore 
and  of  immense  value.  A bribe  from  the  rich  Jaureyui  induced 
Ferrera  and  a majority  in  the  Camaras  to  repeal  this  time-hon- 
ored ordinance.  Others  of  the  owners,  won  over  by  the  spe- 
cious arguments  of  the  wily  lawyer,  agreed ; the  pillars  were 
taken  down,  and  in  four  months  are  said  to  have  yielded  half  a 
million  in  pure  silver,  but  the  next  rainy  season  the  roofs  fell 
in  and  the  mine  was  ruined.  The  long  galleries  became  choked 
with  stones,  timber,  and  mud ; the  machinery  went  to  wreck ; 
and  the  foreign  proprietors,  after  expostulating  in  vain  with 
Ferrera,  abandoned  the  enterprise  in  despair.  Ten  thousand 
dollars  would  be  required  to  reopen  the  Guayabilla  from  a new 
point,  but  there  are  many  who  assert  that  the  speculation  would 
prove  a good  one,  as  the  mine  was  yielding  largely  when  de- 
stroyed by  the  rapacious  Jaureyui. 

The  arrival  of  the  long-expected  documents,  with  flattering 
letters  from  President  Cabanas  and  Senor  Cacho,  enabled  me 
to  complete  my  preparations.  After  a formal  “ adios'1'1  to  my 
friends,  who  had  ridden  out  of  the  city  with  me  to  the  foot  of 
the  Lapaterique  range,  I took  the  path  or  co.mino  real  leading 
over  the  mountains  to  the  Pacific,  and,  with  the  usual  delays 
and  peculiar  adventures  of  Central  American  travel,  arrived  at 
Choluteca.  From  here,  after  a detention  of  four  days,  and  bid- 
ding adieu  to  my  faithful  Roberto,  who  begged  hard  to  go  with 
me  to  el  Norte , I reached  Amapala,  and  renewed  a cordial  inti- 
macy with  my  hospitable  friend,  Senor  Dardano. 

Here  the  rumor  of  Walker’s  contemplated  enlistment  with  a 
few  followers  in  the  Castellon  cause  had  created  some  anxiety. 
Mr.  Byron  Cole,  my  companion  from  San  Francisco  to  Leon, 
arrived  on  the  following  day,  and  the  adventures  of  both  were 
quickly  exchanged.  Neither  had  heard  from  the  other  since 
parting  at  Leon  the  previous  year.  All  letters  miscarrying, 
and  the  lazy  life  of  Nicaragua  not  suiting  my  energetic  friend, 
he  had  enlisted  his  sympathies  with  the  Democratic  cause,  had 
gone  back  to  San  Francisco  with  his  own  written  contracts, 
signed  and  sealed  by  the  government,  engaging  the  co-opera- 
tion of  the  second  Miranda,  and,  returning  to  Nicaragua,  was 


POLITICAL  MATTERS.  445 

now  calmly  awaiting  the  firing  of  the  train  he  had  so  skillfully 
laid. 

Meanwhile  Chamorro,  closely  besieged  in  Granada,  still  held 
out  against  the  Castellon  forces,  while  the  people,  wearied  with 
the  protracted  war,  were  ready  to  side  with  either  party  most 
likely  to  terminate  it.  Masaya,  Managua,  and  Rivas,  with  all 
Southern  Nicaragua,  had  been  retaken  by  the  Legitimistos , or 
adherents  of  Chamorro.  Honduras,  assailed  by  Guatemala,  had 
withdrawn  her  troops  from  Nicaragua  to  protect  her  eastern 
frontier.  San  Salvador  and  Costa  Rica  were  acting  temporari- 
ly the  part  of  pacificators  ; and  Guatemala,  friendly  to  the  Cha- 
morro cause,  but  occupied  with  her  usual  invasion  of  Honduras, 
contented  herself  with  keeping  spies  in  Leon,  and  affording  all 
possible  secret  aid  to  the  Serviles.  Such  was  the  political  as- 
pect of  Central  America  in  the  summer  of  1855. 

The  only  communication  between  the  Bay  of  Fonseca  and 
the  south  coast  was  by  a few  antiquated  launches,  dignified 
with  the  name  of  schooners,  and  offering  perhaps  a semi-month- 
ly chance  to  go  by  sea  from  port  to  port.  An  open  boat,  with 
one  sorry,  threadbare  sail,  was  at  last  announced  for  San  Juan 
del  Sur,  for  a passage  in  which  the  proprietor  asked  the  moder- 
ate sum  of  $50,  payable  in  advance.  We  set  sail  at  sundown, 
took  the  young  flood,  and  swept  swiftly  out  of  the  noble  har- 
bor, past  Mianguera  and  the  great  headlands  of  Conchagua  and 
Consiguina,  standing  like  the  Pillars  of  Hercules  to  guard  the 
entrance  to  the  finest  harbor  on  the  North  Pacific  coast.  A 
bright  moon  illumined  the  distant  peaks,  and  tipped  with  silver 
the  surf  breaking  over  the  lonely  F arrallones.  The  land-breeze 
bore  us  swiftly  away  to  the  southward,  and  at  daylight  only  the 
higher  volcanic  peaks  were  in  sight.  El  Tigre,  up  whose  steep 
ascent  we  had  lately  scrambled  to  the  very  apex — a plateau  of 
lava  and  mould  crowned  with  luxuriant  grass — now  loomed 
dim  in  the  horizon.  Three  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean  it 
towers,  and  from  seaward  affords  an  unfailing  landmark  to  the 
mariner. 

For  three  days  we  beat  against  a strong  southwest  wind,  when 
the  ancient  craft  commenced  to  leak  at  such  a rate  that  the  pa- 
tron (a  bongo  sailor,  who  now  made  his  first  trip  to  sea)  clap- 
ped his  helm  up  and  made  for  Realejo,  where  two  days  more 


446 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


were  expended  in  repairing.  Here  my  crew  gravely  informed 
me  that  the  boat  was  unseaworthy,  and  the  voyage  consequent- 
ly at  an  end.  A dispute  ensued,  which  was  finally  carried  be- 
fore the  commandante  of  the  port,  who  first  ascertained  my  pol- 
itics, which  were,  of  course,  strongly  Castellon.  This  declara- 
tion, backed  by  a quarter  doubloon,  decided  the  case  in  my  fa- 
vor, and  Pedro  was  forced  to  refund  three  fourths  of  the  passage- 
money. 

Another  launch  was  engaged,  and  at  night,  in  the  good  launcli 
“Live  Yankee,”  Captain  “Sam,”  the  voyage  was  continued. 
Two  days  more  we  beat  along  the  Nicaraguan  coast,  losing  on 
one  tack  all  we  gained  on  the  other,  until  a favorable  breeze 
gave  us  a slant  into  the  roadstead  of  San  Juan  del  Sur.  As  we 
rounded  a headland,  the  inspiring  spectacle  appeared  of  an  ocean 
steam-ship  (the  Uncle  Sam),  wearing  the  American  flag,  riding  at 
her  anchors,  ready  fired  up,  and  receiving  the  last  of  her  New 
York  passengers  before  weighing  anchor  for  San  Francisco.  I 
question  if  I ever  gazed  on  the  red,  white,  and  blue  with  greater 
satisfaction. 

In  another  hour  I was  comfortably  located  on  board,  with  the 
courteous  Captain  Blethen  “ bringing  up  the  news.”  My  latest 
New  York  paper  was  five  months  old.  Those  in  the  steamer 
were  but  fourteen  days.  Soon  the  ponderous  machinery  be- 
gan to  move,  and,  with  a parting  signal-gun,  we  sped  bravely 
away. 

Once  among  old  friends,  it  was  with  genuine  regret  that  I re- 
called the  images  of  a strange  and  decadent  people,  and  a coun- 
try of  rare  and  yet  unknown  beauties.  The  delicate  tracery  of 
the  laines  and  parasites,  the  brilliancy  and  variety  of  the  land- 
scapes, the  bracing  air  of  the  upland  plateaus,  the  skies  of  im- 
maculate blue,  and  the  imperial  sunsets,  all  came  dreamily  back 
as  we  steamed  past  purpling  mountains  and  dark  belts  of  for- 
est. Wild  or  ludicrous  adventures,  tender  fancies,  luxurious 
laziness,  and  drowsy  speculations  through  inductive  courses  of 
siestas , cigarros,  and  fragrant  chocolate , were  fast  fading  into 
visions  of  the  past  as  we  plowed  boldly  toward  the  more  vigor- 
ous and  progressive  North. 

The  activity  displayed  in  every  department  on  board  an  ocean 
steam-ship  can  at  no  time  be  better  appreciated  than  on  thus 


HOME! 


447 


suddenly  quitting  a Spanish-American  countiy,  where  to  think, 
talk,  or  move  fast  is  an  exception  to  the  rule  of  hopeless  leth- 
argy and  laziness.  There  is  something  inspiriting  in  the  hurry 
of  the  waiters,  and  the  brisk  routine  of  hourly  duty.  To  step 
from  Central  America  into  an  American  steamer  was  like  awak- 
ing from  a long  dream.  Here  all  was  life — action.  Men  quar- 
reled with  energy,  and  laughed  aloud.  There  seemed  more  in- 
telligence within  speaking  distance  than  in  the  whole  snail-paced 
race  I had  lately  moved  among. 

In  less  time  than  I had  taken  to  hunt  up  mules  in  Nacaome 
for  a thirty-league  ride,  we  had  plowed  through  sixteen  hundred 
miles  of  ocean,  and  were  now  entering  the  noble  harbor  of  San 
Francisco — past  Point  Lobos,  through  the  Golden  Gate,  and 
safely  moored  at  the  wharf.  It  was  Home  ! 


Ifp JJeoV/T 


|g>*  CO/ 


i »■  / 

el 

sy  Vg».?/ 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


449 


CHAPTER  XXIY. 

HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  1502-1821. 

Aboriginal  Inhabitants  of  Honduras. — Columbus  first  lands  on  the  American 
Continent. — Early  Settlement  of  the  Coast. — Exploration  and  Settlement  of 
the  Interior. — Cortez  at  Truxillo. — Expeditions  into  Olancho. — Subjugation 
of  the  Indians. — Missionary  Expeditions  into  Olancho  and  Segovia. — Estab- 
lishment of  Spanish  Sovereignty. — The  Colonial  System  of  Spain. — Causes  of 
the  Central  American  Revolution. — Declaration  of  Independence. 

The  early  history  of  few  portions  of  Spanish  America  carries 
a deeper  interest,  or  is  more  shrouded  in  oblivion,  than  that  of 
the  region  extending  from  Tehuantepec  to  Panama,  including 
the  whole  of  the  old  kingdom  of  Guatemala,  and  now  known  as 
Central  America.  Its  conquest,  though  emblazoned  with  ad- 
ventures as  notable  as  those  marking  the  fall  of  Montezuma  and 
the  Incas,  has  yet  to  be  placed  in  minute  detail  in  the  pages  of 
modern  historians. 

A century  before  the  advent  of  the  Pilgrim  fathers  upon  the 
bleak  shores  of  New  England,  an  adventurous  people  had  over- 
run a vast  portion  of  the  New  World,  penetrating  its  forests, 
subjugating  its  inhabitants,  and  sending  to  Europe  galleon-loads 
of  treasure  as  earnests  of  its  boundless  wealth.  The  motive  of 
one  race  was  the  purchase  at  any  price  of  religious  freedom  ; of 
the  other,  the  acquisition  of  territory  and  the  lust  of  gold.  One, 
stripped  of  their  former  splendor  and  power,  have  fallen  to  de- 
cay ; the  other,  with  rapid  but  healthful  growth,  already  spans 
the  continent,  and,  limited  by  the  Pacific,  gazes  impatiently  to- 
ward the  plains  of  the  tropical  south.  Retributive  justice  has 
overtaken  the  race  who,  in  the  pursuit  of  gold,  perpetrated  enor- 
mities of  cruelty  unparalleled  in  history.  Their  heritage  is  in 
turn  passing  away,  the  natural  prey  of  more  progressive  and  en- 
ergetic competitors. 

The  accounts  of  the  Spanish  chroniclers,  as  well  as  numerous 
interesting  aboriginal  ruins,  denote  Honduras  to  have  been  in- 
habited at  the  date  of  the  discovery  by  a people  not  lacking  in 

F F 


450 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  arts  of  civilization,  and  in  numbers  which  entitled  the  coun- 
try to  rank  among  the  most  populous  of  the  New  World.  The 
histories  of  Bernal  Diaz,  Las  Casas,  Herrera,  Fuentes,Vasquez, 
and,  more  recently,  of  Juarros,  the  historian  of  Guatemala,  throw 
ample  light  upon  the  achievement  of  the  conquerors.  From 
these  sources  it  appears  that  the  aborigines  possessed  the  cour- 
age and  skill  to  wage  a determined  war  against  their  invaders, 
which,  though  of  short  duration,  lasted  until  the  superior  arms 
and  skill  of  the  Spaniards  brought  them  gradually  to  subjection. 

Honduras  claims  the  distinction  of  having  been  the  first  place 
of  debarkation  of  Columbus  on  the  American  continent.  Here, 
on  his  fourth  voyage,  he  landed  at  Point  Casinas,  on  the  14th 
of  August,  1502.  He  had  previously  discovered  the  island  of 
Guanaja  (now  Bonaca,  one  of  the  “ Bay  Islands”),  where  Barto- 
lome  Columbus  had  landed  with  a party  of  Spaniards.  Pursu- 
ing his  voyage  to  the  eastward  from  Point  Casinas  (now  Cape 
Honduras),  Columbus  made  a headland  stretching  into  the  sea. 
where,  for  some  time,  he  contended  with  currents  and  adverse 
winds,  until,  rounding  the  point,  the  sailors  thanked  God,  whence 
it  derived  its  appellation  of  “ Gracias  a Dios." 

At  Guanaja  the  admiral  was  visited  by  a number  of  the  in- 
habitants of  the  continent.  They  came  in  a canoe  of  great 
length  and  eight  feet  wide,  ingeniously  constructed,  and  appear- 
ed to  be  a people  much  farther  advanced  in  the  civilized  arts 
than  any  he  had  yet  discovered.  Some  wore  massive  ornaments 
of  gold,  and  replied  to  the  eager  inquiries  of  the  Spaniards  by 
pointing  to  the  main  land,  where  they  said  it  was  found  in  such 
quantities  as  to  be  used  for  the  commonest  purposes.  Farther 
to  the  southward,  the  natives  wore  plates  of  gold  as  ornaments. 
The  main  land,  however,  was  not  settled  until  1509,  when  Alon- 
zo de  Ojeda,  on  his  third  voyage,  and  Diego  de  Nicuessa,  under 
the  encouragement  of  Ferdinand,  formed  two  settlements,  one  of 
which,  extending  from  Darien  to  Cape  Gracias  a Dios,  was  placed 
under  the  government  of  Nicuessa. 

In  1523  Cristoval  de  Oli,  having  been  commissioned  by  Cor- 
tez, landed  in  Honduras  at  a point  not  far  from  Omoa,  which  he 
called  the  Bay  of  the  “Triumph  of  the  Cross.”  He  was  pre- 
ceded, however,  by  Gil  Gonzales  de  Avila,  the  discoverer  of  the 
Bay  of  Fonseca,  who  had  previously  effected  a landing  on  t he 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


451 


Gulf  of  Dulce,  having  been  unable,  owing  to  the  bad  weather, 
to  enter  Puerto  Caballos,  near  which  he  was  obliged  to  throw 
overboard  some  horses — whence  the  name.  Juarros  states  from 
Herrera  that  the  coast  had  at  once  the  names  of  “Las  Ilibue- 
ras,”  from  the  great  number  of  calabashes  seen  floating  in  the 
vicinity;  “ Guaimura,”  from  a village  so  called;  and  “Hondura” 
(depth),  a name  given  by  the  Spaniards,  who  were  prevented  for 
some  time  from  landing,  owing  to  the  great  depth  of  water  along 
the  coast. 

Oli  having  revolted  from  the  authority  of  Cortez,  that  com- 
mander sent  Francisco  de  Las  Casas  from  Mexico  against  him, 
with  two  ships  well  armed.  A naval  engagement  took  place  in 
the  bay  between  the  fleets  of  the  two  captains,  which  resulted  in 
the  defeat  of  Oli,  one  of  whose  vessels  was  sunk ; but  a gale 
arising  at  the  moment  of  victory,  the  vessels  of  Las  Casas  found- 
ered ; forty  of  his  men  were  drowned,  and  the  rest  saved  them- 
selves by  swimming  to  the  shore.  The  survivors  requited  Oli’s 
kind  treatment  by  treacherously  murdering  him  the  first  oppor- 
tunity. These  events  left  Las  Casas  in  possession  of  the  coun- 
try. In  the  following  year  (1524)  he  founded  the  city  of 
Truxillo. 

Although  Gonzales,  in  1522,  had  discovered  the  Pacific  coast 
of  Honduras,  on  his  expedition  in  search  of  a passage  from  the 
South  Sea  to  the  Atlantic,  he  does  not  appear  to  have  penetrated 
into  the  interior.  The  earliest  settlement  recorded  is  that  of 
San  Jorge  de  Olanchito,  by  Diego  de  Alvarado,  sent  by  his 
brother  Pedro,  in  1530,  to  colonize  the  province  of  Tecultran, 
or  Eastern  Honduras.  This  town,  however,  as  is  denoted  by 
its  name,  was  founded  subsequent  to  many  excursions  made 
into  the  interior  of  Olancho  by  the  Spaniards  during  Cortez’s  res- 
idence at  Truxillo  in  1526.  Bernal  Diaz  relates  that,  after  the 
conquest  of  the  Indians  residing  near  Truxillo,  the  name  of 
Cortez  was  so  feared  and  respected  among  all  the  inhabitants  of 
this  country  “that  even  the  distant  tribes  of  Olancho,  where 
subsequently  so  many  lucrative  mines  were  discovered,  sent  em- 
bassadors to  him  to  declare  themselves  vassals  of  our  emperor.’- 
But  the  interior  of  Olancho  had  been  visited  even  before  this 
date  by  Captain  Gabriel  Rojas,  who  was  sent  by  Pedro  Arias 
to  explore  the  gold  mines  of  the  country.  The  same  adventurer 


452 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


effected  a settlement  at  Cape  Gracias  a Dios  in  1530,  which  was 
soon  after  abandoned. 

Cortez,  meantime,  obtaining  no  tidings  from  Las  Casas,  had 
performed  his  celebrated  march  from  Chiapas  through  the  un- 
known wilderness  of  Guatemala  to  Honduras,  an  achievement 
unparalleled  in  martial  history  for  the  sufferings,  difficulties,  and 
privations  successfully  encountered  by  its  projector.  On  his 
arrival  he  directed  important  changes  in  the  settlements,  and 
founded  the  town  of  Natividad  at  Puerto  Caballos. 

During  the  stay  of  Cortez  at  Truxillo,  frequent  communica- 
tion was  doubtless  had  between  the  port  and  the  interior.  The 
powerful  tribes  in  the  vicinity  were  reduced,  and  their  chiefs 
brought  to  Truxillo  and  made  to  understand  the  power  of  Spain. 
Some,  residing  in  what  is  now  known  as  Yoro,  were  employed 
in  laborious  work  in  the  town,  and  the  caciques  required  to  ne- 
gotiate with  the  adjacent  islanders  for  provisions  for  their  con- 
querors. A number  of  Indians,  says  Bernal  Diaz,  had  jour- 
neyed all  the  way  to  Truxillo,  bearing  complaints  to  Cortez  of 
the  Spaniards  of  Nicaragua,  who  had  committed  depredations  on 
their  country,  plundering  them,  and  carrying  away  their  wives 
and  daughters.  Gonzales  de  Sandoval  was  dispatched  with 
only  sixty  men  into  the  interior,  where  Rojas  was  saved  from 
punishment  by  the  mediation  of  several  cavaliers,  who  restored 
friendship  between  the  two  commanders.  The  historian  states 
that  Sandoval  penetrated  six  hundred  miles  into  the  country, 
the  impossibility  of  which  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  much  less 
than  that  distance  would  more  than  have  sufficed  to  carry  him 
quite  across  the  continent. 

Herrera  devotes  part  of  his  fourth  book  to  a description  of 
the  religion  and  customs  of  the  natives  inhabiting  the  present 
departments  of  Yoro  and  Olancho.  That  the  country  was  pop- 
ulous is  shown  by  his  reference  to  the  River  Haguaro  (Aguan?), 
a large  and  pleasant  stream  running  toward  Truxillo,  on  the 
banks  of  which  were  large  towns,  whose  people  irrigated  much 
land. 

About  the  time  of  Cortez’s  final  departure  from  Truxillo  in 
1526,  expeditions  from  Naco,  near  Puerto  Caballos,  had  been 
made  into  Olancho.  “ We  had  already  fought  our  way,”  says 
Bernal  Diaz,  “ through  hostile  tribes  up  to  Olancho,  which  at 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


453 


present  is  called  Guayape,  abounding  in  lucrative  gold  mines.’’ 
The  continued  disco  vexy  of  gold  mines  in  Olancho  and  Yoro  (the 
latter  then  known  as  Santa  Cruz  del  Oro- — -the  Holy  Cross  of 
Gold)  brought  a numerous  population  into  that  part  of  Hon- 
duras, many  of  whom,  charmed  with  its  climate  and  picturesque 
scenery,  renounced  the  occupation  of  miners,  and,  commencing 
with  small  stocks  imported  from  Spain,  gave  the  first  impulse 
to  the  subsequent  pastoral  employment  of  the  people.  The 
leading  branch  of  industry,  however,  for  many  years,  was  gold 
mining,  vigorously  pursued  with  the  rude  methods  then  in  vogue. 
An  English  writer  in  1661,  describing  the  province  of  Hondu- 
ras,  says,  “ Twenty-seven  leagues  from  this  city  (Truxillo)  lies 
the  village  of  San  Jorje  de  Olancho,  where  four  thousand  Span- 
iards force  tribute  from  sixteen  thousand  Indians,  who  possess 
much  gold.” 

From  the  arrival  of  Pedro  de  Alvarado  with  the  royal  com- 
mission of  Governor  and  Captain  General  of  Guatemala,  the 
subjugation  of  the  natives  was  continued  with  the  most  inhu- 
man cruelties.  The  local  commanders,  exercising  unlimited 
control  over  the  Indians,  stopped  at  no  barbarities  in  extorting 
from  them  the  supposed  hiding-places  of  their  gold.  A stub- 
born resistance  was  made  in  Honduras,  but  particularly  in  Gua- 
temala proper,  where  the  aborigines  were  led  to  battle  in  vast 
hosts,  but  only  to  be  slaughtered  in  heaps  by  their  dauntless, 
mail-cased  enemies. 

Montejo,  who  had  been  appointed  Governor  of  Honduras  by 
the  King  of  Spain  in  1536,  on  his  arrival  from  Mexico  dispatch- 
ed Alonzo  de  Carceres,  one  of  his  officers,  against  the  Cacique 
Lempira  (lord  of  the  mountain).  This  chieftain  had  collected 
an  army  of  thirty  thousand  men,  whom  he  animated  with  Stir- 
ling appeals  and  assurances  of  victory.  He  fortified  a rock  at 
Cerquin,near  the  present  city  of  Comayagua,  and  for  six  months 
bid  defiance  to  the  Spaniards,  who  were  obliged  to  winter  in  the 
field  with  great  suffering.  Lempira  haughtily  rejected  all  offers 
of  peace,  and  put  to  death  the  messengers  of  Carceres,  declaring 
that  he  would  own  no  superior,  nor  admit  of  any  innovations  in 
the  customs  and  religion  of  the  country.  He  was  of  middle 
stature,  broad-shouldered,  brave,  and  prudent.  His  influence 
over  the  Indians  was  so  great  that  he  was  said  by  them  to  be 


454 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


enchanted,  and  fabulous  accounts  of  his  personal  prowess  were 
current  among  all  the  tribes,  where  he  was  held  in  extreme  awe 
and  respect.  He  was  at  length  treacherously  shot  by  order  of 
Carceres,  during  a parley,  in  which  he  stood  exposed  upon  the 
ramparts  of  his  fort.  His  body  was  found  incased  in  the  pecul- 
iar cotton  armor  used  by  the  Spaniards  in  the  Indian  wars. 
After  his  death  the  natives  surrendered  to  the  authority  of  the 
conquerors. 

The  Cacique  Tapica  was  another  brave  and  powerful  chief- 
tain, exercising  great  influence  over  the  tribes  of  the  interior, 
whom  he  urged  to  effect  a general  union  against  the  invaders, 
but  unsuccessfully.  The  Spaniards  found  the  natives  divided 
against  themselves,  and  thus  falling  the  surer  and  easier  prey  to 
their  enemies. 

Forty  thousand  men  would  assemble  to  fight  a battle,  some 
of  them  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  pointed  with  sharp  flints. 
Their  shields  were  constructed  of  reeds,  artificially  woven  to- 
gether, and  covered  with  the  skins  of  lions,  tigers,  deer,  and 
other  wild  animals ; the  martial  ornaments  of  the  skins  of 
birds  and  beasts.  Their  swords  were  made  of  poisonous  hard 
wood.* 

The  historian  Juarros,  who  refers  to  the  conquest  of  these 
aboriginal  tribes,  is  silent  regarding  the  multitudes  barbarously 
put  to  death  during  the  work  of  subjugation.  Bartolome  de  Las 
Casas,  who  visited  Guatemala  in  1536,  was  unwearied  in  his 
attempts  to  convert  the  natives  to  the  Christian  faith,  and  suc- 
ceeded by  gentleness  in  subduing  tribes  who  had  defied  the 
most  chivalrous  exploits  of  the  soldiers.  He  did  not  confine 
his  humane  efforts  to  Guatemala,  but  interested  himself  in  be- 
half of  Honduras. 

In  his  letter  to  Charles  V.  he  gives  us  some  insight  into  the 
enormities  practiced  by  the  Spaniards,  and  the  vast  population 
in  the  days  of  the  conquerors  ; but,  in  the  latter  respect,  allow- 
ance should  be  made  for  the  zealous  exaggeration  of  the  good 
bishop.  Of  the  conquerors  he  says,  “ They  murdered  young 
children,  beating  out  their  brains  against  stones.  The  kings 
and  princes  of  the  country  they  either  scorched  to  death  or 
threw  them  to  the  dogs  to  be  torn  to  pieces.  The  poor  people 

* Herrera,  book  iv.,  chap.  i. ; book  vi.,  chap.  iv. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


455 


they  drove  into  their  houses,  and  then  set  them  on  fire.  Those 
that  remained  were  condemned  to  the  worst  slavery  imaginable, 
being  used  instead  of  mules  and  horses,  forced  to  carry  burdens 
far  beyond  their  strength,  and  thousands  fell  dead  under  their 
loads.  Some  ran  into  the  woods,  and  starved  after  having  eaten 
their  wives  and  children.  In  this  province  alone  they  massa- 
cred above  twenty  hundred  thousand  men,  among  others  per- 
sons of  quality  who  had  civilly  entertained  them.  They  tor- 
tured the  poor  innocent  natives  in  every  way  they  could  invent 
to  force  them  to  discover  their  gold.  Particularly  Diego  de  Ve- 
lasco spared  none  that  ever  fell  into  his  hands ; so  that,  in  a 
month’s  time,  above  ten  thousand  were  slain  by  him.  He  hang- 
ed thirteen  chiefs,  to  whom  he  gave  the  name  of  the  twelve  apos- 
tles, naming  the  principal  one  Jesus  Christ.  Some  they  suffer- 
ed to  starve  to  death,  with  their  heads  fastened  between  the 
cloven  barks  of  wild  vines  ; some  they  buried  alive,  and,  leav- 
ing only  their  heads  above  ground,  bowled  iron  shot  at  them, 
and  forced  them  to  eat  one  another,  and  infinite  other  hellish 
cruelties  too  horrible  to  be  recounted.” 

The  tyrannical  rule  of  Governor  Cerceda  in  1536  was  such 
that  the  Indians,  upon  whose  agricultural  labors  the  colonists 
had  mainly  depended,  fled  into  the  mountains,  leaving  the  set- 
tlers in  the  greatest  distress.  The  arrival  of  Alvarado  termi- 
nated these  troubles.  The  Indians  were  pacified,  and  the  guilty 
governor  was  held  answerable  for  his  conduct.  While  here, 
Alvarado  founded  the  towns  of  San  Juan  and  San  Pedro  Zula. 
In  the  same  year  efforts  were  made  to  explore  and  settle  the  in- 
terior. By  the  death  of  the  Cacique  Lempira  quiet  was  re- 
stored, and  Alonzo  de  Caceres  was  commissioned  to  discover  an 
eligible  situation  for  a town  midway  between  the  two  oceans. 
He  selected  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Comayagua.  It  was 
intended,  says  Juarros,  by  means  of  this  place  to  obtain  an  easy 
communication  with  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  ; its  situation,  be- 
ing about  half  way  between  Puerto  Caballos  and  the  Bay  of 
Fonseca,  would  render  it  a convenient  intermediate  depot.  The 
climate  being  healthy,  and  the  soil  fertile,  much  of  the  sickness 
and  waste  of  human  life  would  be  prevented,  and  many  of  the 
fatigues  and  privations  avoided  usually  experienced  in  the  jour- 
ney from  Nornbre  de  Dios  (Chagres)  to  Panama.  The  King  of 


456 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Spain  commissioned  an  Italian  engineer,  Bautista  Antonelli,  to 
survey  this  proposed  route,  which,  three  hundred  years  later,  has 
been  selected  by  Anglo-Saxons  for  the  line  of  an  inter-oceanic 
rail-road  communication.*  The  historian  states  1542  as  the  year 
in  which  Comayagua  (then  called  Nueva  Valladolid)  was  found- 
ed. It  soon  became  the  capital  of  the  province,  a position  it 
has  since  continued  to  hold. 

The  settlement  of  Honduras  appears  to  have  been  prosecuted 
earnestly  by  the  Spaniards  during  the  greater  part  of  this  cen- 
tury. Many  of  the  most  advantageously  situated  Indian  vil- 
lages grew  into  brisk  trading  towns.  The  natives  gradually 
fell  into  a state  of  vassalage  or  servitude,  more  wretched,  if  pos- 
sible, than  professed  slavery.  It  can  not  be  denied  that  the 
laws  of  the  Indies  were  conceived  and  intended  to  be  adminis- 
tered in  justice  and  wisdom,  especially  those  regulating  the  gov- 
ernment of  the  Indians  ; but  these,  though  framed  in  the  spirit 
of  humanity,  were  craftily  evaded  by  the  Spaniards,  who,  op- 
pressed as  colonists  by  the  mother  country,  in  their  turn  abused 
and  harassed  the  unresisting  natives.  Negro  slavery  was  in- 
troduced only  when  the  system  of  refined  cruelty  had  nearly  ex- 
tinguished the  Indian  race. 

The  city  of  Truxillo,  as  the  outlet  of  the  produce  of  Olancho 
and  Yoro,  became,  after  some  years,  a centre  of  commerce.  In 
1539  its  church  was  declared  a cathedral  by  Pope  Pius  III., 
which  title  it  continued  to  hold  for  above  twenty  years,  until  re- 
moved to  Comayagua.  A fort  mounting  seventeen  guns  was 
built  in  the  same  year.  The  place  was  frequently  attacked, 
and  once,  in  1643,  entirely  destroyed  by  the  Dutch  pirate  John 
Van  Horne.  Among  the  valuable  articles  obtained  as  booty  in 
the  English  and  Dutch  marauding  expeditions  against  Hondu- 
ras are  enumerated  silver,  skins,  indigo,  and  sarsaparilla.  In 
1661,  the  English  geographer  Ogilby,  describing  Truxillo,  says, 
“ The  country  round  about  abounds  chiefly  in  grapes,  which 
are  gathered  twice  a year.  Eight  days  after  August  they  cut 
their  vines,  which  afford  them  ripe  grapes  again  in  October.’’ 
In  1789  the  town  was  rebuilt  by  royal  edict,  and  in  1797  re- 
pulsed an  English  fleet  which  attacked  it.  Juarros  represents 
it  in  1811  as  having  but  four  hundred  inhabitants,  of  whom 
* Proposed  Honduras  Inter-oceanic  Rail-road. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


457 


three  quarters  were  blacks.  At  present  it  is  an  obscure,  unfre- 
quented port.  San  Fernando  de  Omoa,  with  its  castle,  was 
built  in  consequence  of  a royal  decree,  dated  in  1740.  The 
works  were  twenty-three  years  in  process  of  construction.  The 
present  limited  trade  of  these  ports  is  elsewhere  described. 

The  missionary  expeditions  sent  early  in  the  17th  century 
into  the  interior  of  Olancho  and  Segovia  by  the  way  of  Coma- 
yagua,  though  conceived  and  executed  with  laudable  intentions, 
possess  little  interest  beyond  exhibiting  the  condition  of  the  na- 
tive tribes  of  that  date  and  the  indomitable  zeal  of  the  Catholic 
ministers.  As  early  as  1547  information  had  been  sent  to  Spain 
concerning  the  tribes  of  Eastern  Honduras,  then  known  in  con- 
nection with  the  adjoining  region  of  Nicaragua  as  Taguzgalpa 
and  Tologalpa.  In  1594,  Philip  II.  commanded  that  a minute 
statement  be  made  of  the  tribes  inhabiting  the  northern  coasts 
and  transmitted  to  the  court.  About  the  same  time  two  friars 
endeavored  unsuccessfully  to  penetrate  into  the  interior  of  these 
provinces.  The  first  successful  attempt  to  carry  the  Christian 
faith  among  the  “infidel  Indians”  appears  to  have  been  made 
in  1606  by  the  padres  Estevan  Yerdelete  and  Juan  Montea- 
gudo,  who  left  Comayagua  with  the  design  of  reaching  the  pow- 
erful tribes  of  the  Xicaques  by  the  river  of  New  Segovia,  or 
Wanks.  They  were  deserted  by  their  Indian  guides  in  a path- 
less wilderness,  and  after  incredible  perils,  marking  their  way 
by  means  of  the  stars  through  wilds  and  over  precipices,  they 
escaped  and  arrived  safely  at  Comayagua. 

Three  years  afterward  the  two  padres  repeated  the  attempt. 
In  1609  they  formed  a company  of  thirty-four,  among  whom 
were  the  curate  of  Olancho,  Captain  Daza,  and  three  other  na- 
tives of  Olancho.  They  entered  the  mountain  district  by  the 
River  Guayape,  and  after  crossing  many  rivers  by  rafts  and  ca- 
noes, they  came  in  sight  of  the  huts  of  the  natives.  They  prob- 
ably struck  the  Guayape  at  the  foot  of  the  Campamento  Mount- 
ains, and,  traveling  eastward  toward  Tiupacente,  passed  the  Ja- 
lan,  Guayambre,  and  other  rivers  in  that  region. 

The  Indians  were  doubtless  portions  of  the  Toacas  tribe, 
mentioned  by  Juarros  as  inhabiting  that  part  of  the  country. 
They  advanced  to  meet  the  strangers,  greeting  them  with  dances 
and  flowers.  The  appearance  of  some,  who  were  painted  black 


458 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


and  wore  plumes  of  feathers  on  their  heads,  caused  the  padres 
to  doubt  their  peaceable  disposition.  A large  cross  was  erect- 
ed, and  so  many  natives  baptized  that  Verdelete  sent  back  an 
account  of  his  success  to  Guatemala.  But  the  Lencas  and 
Mexicans,  living  together,  quarreled,  and,  seduced  by  those  who 
had  refused  to  be  converted,  they,  with  the  Teguacas,  decamped 
into  the  mountains,  after  which  the  savages,  with  blackened  faces 
and  horrid  yells,  and  armed  with  torches  and  lances,  set  fire  to 
the  hut  which  had  been  erected  as  a church.  Verdelete,  cruci- 
fix in  hand,  expostulated  and  exhorted  in  vain ; and,  finding  the 
dwelling-places  utterly  deserted,  the  party  returned  to  Guate- 
mala. 

In  1610  the  missionaries  again  essayed  the  conversion  of  the 
Xicaques.  The  party  was  escorted  by  Captain  Alonzo  Daza, 
with  twenty-five  soldiers.  Verdelete  preached  a farewell  ser- 
mon at  Guatemala,  in  which  he  prophesied  to  his  hearers  that 
they  were  listening  to  him  for  the  last  time.  The  company 
reached  the  confines  of  Tologalpa  in  1611. 

On  their  arrival  the  party  was  attacked  by  the  natives,  and 
some  of  the  soldiers  were  killed.  After  some  time  spent  in  ob- 
servations, Daza  set  forward  with  a few  soldiers  without  arms, 
to  effect  a peaceable  reconciliation  with  the  Indians.  On  leav- 
ing, he  recommended  the  missionaries  not  to  move  from  their 
present  situation  without  receiving  a letter  from  him.  But, 
heedless  of  this  advice,  they  were  decoyed  by  the  natives  into 
canoes,  and  after  proceeding  some  distance  on  the  river,  came  to 
a point  of  land  where,  on  the  declivity  of  a hill,  were  a multi- 
tude of  Indians  painted  black,  with  helmets  of  feathers,  and 
armed  with  lances.  The  head  of  the  murdered  Daza  and  the 
hands  of  his  soldiers  were  elevated  upon  spears.  Despite  this 
terrible  spectacle, Verdelete  landed  and  advanced  boldly  toward 
the  savages,  who,  at  a concerted  signal,  rushed  upon  the  party, 
killing  both  the  missionaries  and  nearly  all  the  escort. 

The  barbarians  celebrated  their  triumph  by  a feast,  at  which 
they  devoured  their  victims,  making  use  of  their  skulls  for  drink- 
ing-cups. Their  vestments  were  used  in  the  dance,  and  the 
chalices  and  other  holy  utensils  broken  to  pieces  and  made 
into  nose  and  ear  pendants.  The  chronicler  states  that  many 
died  of  their  excesses  on  this  occasion ; some  were  dashed  to 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


459 


pieces  over  precipices,  and  several  were  drowned,  as  a mark  of 
Almighty  vengeance  for  these  sacrileges.  At  least,  he  adds, 
such  was  the  information  given  by  the  Indians  to  a missionary 
who  in  after  times  visited  the  country.  The  death  of  Verdelete 
occurred  in  January,  1612. 

For  many  years  the  Indians  of  Tologalpa  saw  nothing  more 
of  the  Christians,  but  toward  the  close  of  the  17tlx  century  oth- 
er attempts  were  made,  and  missionary  establishments  formed 
in  Segovia,  all  of  which  were  eventually  abandoned.  Efforts 
were  made  to  convert  the  Indians  of  Olancho  shortly  after  the 
martyrdom  of  Verdelete.  A young  Andalusian,  accompanied  by 
a lay  brother,  and  four  Ruatan  Indians  as  interpreters,  landed 
at  Cape  Gracias  a Dios  in  1622.  They  wandered  for  two  days 
in  a wild  country  bearing  no  traces  of  humanity  ; occasionally, 
however,  they  descried  natives  at  a distance,  who,  on  perceiving 
the  strangers,  fled  in  consternation.  They  at  last  encountered 
the  Indians  in  a procession,  the  description  of  which  and  the 
subsequent  narration  of  the  patriarchal  chief  of  the  tribe  indi- 
cates the  love  of  the  marvelous  characterizing  the  accounts  of 
the  Spanish  missionaries.  The  padres  were  kindly  received, 
and  the  work  of  Christianizing  was  conducted  with  the  greatest 
ardor.  Martinez  and  two  companions  were  murdered  in  1623 
by  the  Albatuinas,  a tribe  inhabiting  the  interior  of  Olancho. 
The  Guabas,  another  nation,  are  described  as  mulattoes,  and 
the  progeny  of  a party  of  Spaniards  who  had  been  wrecked  on 
the  coast.  The  missionary  labors  were  gradually  discontinued. 
In  1661  the  Poyas  tribe  made  a descent  upon  the  valley  of 
Olancho,  but  were  soon  reduced  by  Escoto,  a landed  proprietor, 
and  a military  party  raised  for  the  purpose.  The  Padre  Goi- 
coechea  renewed  the  attempts  to  civilize  the  Xicaques  as  late  as 
1805.  He  passed  the  mountain  and  valley  of  Agalteca,  and 
founded  the  villages  of  Pacura  and  San  Estevan  (named  after 
the  martyr  Verdelete),  and  now  known  as  “ Conquistas.”  A.11 
traces  of  the  cannibalism  attributed  to  these  Indians  by  Fer- 
nando Columbus  and  by  the  missionaries  has  long  since  disap- 
peared. 

With  the  conquest  of  the  Indian  tribes  within  fifteen  years 
after  the  landing  of  Cristoval  de  Oli,  Honduras  was  erected  into 
a province  of  the  kingdom  of  Guatemala,  under  the  JVtieva 


460 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Audiencia  established  at  Comayagua.  Far  removed  from  the 
mother  country,  Guatemala  received  no  protection,  and  scarcely 
any  assistance  from  Spain  save  the  necessary  regulating  of  its 
revenues  and  offices  by  the  “ Council  of  the  Indies,”  and  the 
collecting  of  the  king’s  fifths  of  the  proceeds  of  the  mines.  As 
in  Mexico  and  Peru,  the  principal  industry  was  that  of  gold  and 
silver  mining,  begetting,  particularly  in  Honduras,  a distaste  for 
agricultural  pursuits,  except  in  the  great  plains  and  valleys, 
where  considerable  quantities  of  tropical  produce  were  cultivated 
for  export.  The  raising  of  cattle  soon  assumed  an  importance 
only  second  to  mining.  The  European  wars,  in  which  Spain 
was  engaged  during  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries, 
subjected  the  coast  to  occasional  attack  and  to  the  incursions  of 
buccaneers,  to  whom  the  adjacent  West  India  islands  offered 
convenient  places  of  retreat  and  rendezvous  for  the  division  of 
booty.  With  these  few  exceptions,  the  most  profound  tranquil- 
lity reigned  in  the  Guatemalan  provinces.  The  Spanish  mili- 
tary, consisting  of  a handful  of  troops  quartered  in  Guatemala, 
scarcely  merited  the  appellation  of  an  army.  The  Catholic  relig- 
ion extended  exclusively  throughout  the  country ; the  Church 
establishment,  under  the  guidance  of  the  Archbishop  of  Guate- 
mala, was  divided  into  bishoprics,  curacies,  and  parishes,  reach- 
ing in  hundreds  of  ramifications  to  the  remotest  confines  of  civ- 
ilization. 

To  trace  the  history  of  Guatemala  from  the  period  of  the  Con- 
quest to  the  Independence  would  be  inconsistent  with  the  brev- 
ity of  this  sketch.  The  system  of  colonial  government  by  which 
Spain,  from  a great  distance,  ruled  equably  and  successfully,  for 
neaxly  three  centuries,  vast  continents  with  many  millions  of  in- 
habitants, must  ever  excite  the  admiration  of  the  world.  Coun- 
tries entirely  dissimilar  in  climate,  productions,  and  people, 
moved  with  equal  regularity  in  one  political  orbit,  guided  by  its 
harmonizing  influence.  The  Guatemalan  provinces  formed  a 
galaxy  under  the  sway  of  this  wonderful  system,  and  existed,  as 
has  been  observed,  in  absolute  tranquillity. 

The  charge  of  maintaining  the  Spanish  authority  was  in- 
trusted to  officers  enjoying  salaries  and  honors  almost  rivaling 
actual  sovereignty,  under  the  title  of  viceroys  and  captains- 
general.  Guatemala  became  a capitaneria,  into  six  of  which, 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


461 


and  four  viceroyalties,  Spanish  America  was  divided.  The  ad- 
ministration of  justice  was  confided  to  audiencias,  one  of  which, 
as  has  already  been  stated,  was  established  by  royal  decree  at 
Comayagua  in  1543.  This  political  and  civil  organization  un- 
derwent few  if  any  changes  during  the  centuries  of  Spanish  sway 
in  Guatemala.  The  provinces  were  subsequently  represented 
at  the  court  of  Madrid  by  viceroyal  deputies. 

In  Spain  existed  throughout  this  era  the  celebrated  conven- 
tion known  as  the  “ Council  of  the  Indies,”  which,  established 
as  early  as  1511,  continued  thereafter  to  exercise  its  authority 
over  the  affairs  of  the  provinces.  It  was  also  a supreme  court 
of  appeals  from  the  decisions  of  the  audiencias.  Composed  of 
learned,  sagacious  men,  well  versed  in  the  requirements  and  pe- 
culiar position  of  the  colonies,  this  body  was  regarded  by  the 
people  with  the  most  sincere  veneration.  It  professed  to  reward 
chivalrous  deeds,  to  punish  delinquents,  and  redress  wrongs. 
Its  powers  were  as  absolute  as  they  were  extensive.  In  its 
gift  were  the  principal  civil  and  ecclesiastical  colonial  offices, 
and  its  influence  mainly  guided  the  military  as  well  as  financial 
and  commercial  affairs  of  Spanish  America.  But  even  so  potent 
an  arm  of  protection,  apparently  stretched  in  friendly  attitude 
toward  the  colonies,  offered  in  reality  no  succor  to  the  oppressed 
Indian  tribes,  who  gradually  but  surely  were  fading  before  their 
pitiless  task-masters ; and  even  the  Spanish  inhabitants  were 
but  seldom  enabled  to  gain  the  ear  of  the  council,  surrounded 
as  it  was  with  disheartening  formalities. 

The  system  of  finances  was  founded  on  the  principles,  1st, 
that  the  king  was  the  proprietor  of  the  lands ; 2d,  the  payment 
by  the  Indians  of  a contribution  or  capitation  ; 3d,  a tenth  part 
of  the  produce  of  the  land  was  paid  under  the  denomination  of 
tithes,  which  were  levied  for  the  protection  of  the  king,  and 
granted  to  the  churches  under  the  sanction  of  different  popes ; 
4th,  the  indirect  taxes,  or  customs ; the  alcabala , or  duty  paid 
on  selling  most  articles  of  commerce  or  provisions,  and  the  fifth 
( quinto)  of  all  gold  and  silver  extracted  from  the  mines  not  be- 
longing to  the  king.  The  sale  of  tobacco,  salt,  cards,  and  some 
other  less  important  articles,  was  confined  to  the  royal  officers. 
The  postal  revenues  also  passed  into  the  king’s  treasury,  and  in 
some  provinces  a duty  was  paid  for  the  right  of  establishing  and 


462 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


using  ferries,  for  keeping  game-cocks,  and  for  selling  the  bever- 
ages known  as  guarapo  and  pulque.  The  revenues  were  col- 
lected by  officers  of  the  different  departments  of  the  administra- 
tion, and  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  Juntas  Svperiores  de 
Hacienda  meeting  at  the  capitals,  and  which  were  composed  of 
the  Intendente,  who  was  the  president,  the  Regent  of  the  Au~ 
diencia , two  Contadores  Majores,  the  Fiscal  de  la  Civil , the 
Ojicial  Real  (senior  in  office),  and  one  Fscribano  Real.* 

The  condition  of  the  Spanish-American  provinces  under  the 
Spanish  rule  is  forcibly  depicted  in  the  letters  of  Mr.  William 
Walton  to  his  Royal  Highness  the  Prince  Regent,  etc.,  pub- 
lished in  London  in  1814.  Bribery  and  corruption  were  the 
springs  by  which  every  thing  was  moved.  Monopolies  of  va- 
rious kinds,  and  in  the  most  essential  articles,  absorbed  the  in- 
dustry of  the  lower  classes  ; and  restrictions  of  trade  and  pro- 
hibitory systems  rendered  every  thing  stagnant,  and  left  the 
choicest  productions  of  no  value.  Besides  the  onerous  monop- 
olies which  existed  in  favor  of  the  crown  and  of  individuals,  the 
liberty  of  the  press  was  unknown,  the  planting  of  the  vine  and 
olive  was  forbidden  in  most  sections,!  generally  the  distilling  of 
spirits,  and  also  the  growing  of  hemp  and  flax.  It  was  unlaw- 
ful to  whale  or  fish  for  cod,  as  well  as  to  trade  between  the  re- 
spective provinces,  not  only  in  articles  brought  from  Spain,  but 
even  in  those  of  their  own  growth.  Coasting  trade  was  not  al- 
lowed, and  intercourse  with  foreigners  was  pronounced  a capi- 
tal crime,  and  punished  as  such. 

Estrada  observes  (Examen  Impartial,  fol.  149)  that  the  Span- 
ish government,  in  order  to  hold  the  Americans  in  greater  sub- 
jection to  its  own  dominion,  conceived  that  the  best  means  was 
to  prohibit  them  from  manufacturing  any  thing  made  in  Spain, 
or  from  growing  on  their  soil  any  of  her  productions.  Hence 
they  were  forbidden  to  rival  the  wine,  brandies,  oil,  raisins,  al- 
monds, silk,  cloth,  glass,  etc.,  of  the  mother  country,  on  whom 

* See  “ Titulos  de  la  Alcabala ,”  “ Ensayo  del  Oro,”  etc.,  Recofilacion  de  las 
Indias. 

f “ Quedando  expresamente  prohibido  para  la  Nueva  Espaba  Tierra-firme  v 
Santa  Ee,  los  vinos,  aguardientes,  vinagre,  aceyte  de  olivas,  pasas,  y almendras. 
de  Peru  y Chili  y privados  rigorosamente  en  todas  partes  los  plantios  de  olivares 
y vinas .’’—Vide  Gazeta  de  Mexico , 6 de  Octobre,  1801;  also,  Censor  Extraordina- 
ry, No.  59,  Cadiz , 1812. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


463 


they  became  dependent  for  their  supplies  of  these  articles.  They 
were  not  suffered  to  work  the  quicksilver  mines,  with  which  their 
country  abounds,  and  the  king  preferred  to  expend  a consider- 
able sum  annually  in  the  port  of  Trieste  than  that  the  Ameri- 
cans should  not  be  beholden  to  him  for  the  requisites  to  amal- 
gamate their  ores.  * *****  The  great  restrictions  on  the  im- 
portation of  books  were  also  extremely  grievous ; for,  if  any 
thing  besides  prayer-books  and  catechisms  escaped  the  vigilance 
of  the  Custom-house  searcher,  it  was  difficult  to  elude  the  fangs 
of  the  Inquisition,  on  whose  expurgatory  list  were  to  be  found 
the  best  and  most  useful  authors  in  modern  languages.  It  even 
entered  into  the  colonial  policy  of  Spain  to  hide  from  the  Amer- 
icans the  real  and  faithful  details  of  the  primitive  conquest  of 
their  country ; so  much  so,  that  the  works  of  Las  Casas,  who 
was  at  the  same  time  venerated  as  a saint,  were  forbidden  by 
government  because  they  constituted  a true  and  just  picture  of 
the  horrors  and  cruelties  committed  by  the  first  conquerors 
against  the  inoffensive  Indians,  and  enumerated  the  ravages  and 
destruction  of  the  principal  towns  with  the  ardor  of  a Christian 
and  the  truth  of  an  eyewitness.  Epic  poems  and  romances  in 
praise  of  the  first  conquerors,  like  the  history  of  Solis,  were 
alone  suffered  to  be  read,  and  in  which  the  ignorance  and  vices 
of  the  defenseless  natives  were  alleged  as  the  plea  for  the  un- 
heard-of butcheries  which  so  soon  depeopled  these  lately-dis- 
covered nations  of  the  world.  ***** 

Patriotic  societies,  which  had  for  their  object  beneficence  and 
the  dissemination  of  knowledge,  were  prohibited  under  the  most 
specious  pretexts,  as  well  as  the  study  of  the  laws  and  rights 
of  nations,  which  latter  were  supposed  to  form  no  part  of  the 
claims  of  Americans.  The  Indian  college  of  Tlalclolco  was 
abolished  because  the  natives  of  Colora  therein  acquired  infor- 
mation. Cacique  Cirilo  de  Castilla  spent  thirty  years  of  his 
life  in  endeavoring  to  found  an  Indian  college  in  La  Puebla,  but 
died  in  Madrid  without  succeeding.  Don  Juan  Francisco,  an 
Opata  chief,  traveled  to  Mexico  on  foot,  a distance  of  five  hund- 
red leagues,  and  then  crossed  the  ocean  to  Madrid,  solely  to  so- 
licit a grant  to  found  a school  in  his  own  interior  province,  for 
the  only  purpose  of  teaching  his  fellow-Indians  the  first  rudi- 
ments ; but  he  was  refused  by  the  Council  of  the  Indies  in 


464 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


1798.  A patriotic  society,  founded  by  the  benevolent  Villaur- 
rutia  in  Guatemala  for  the  object  of  encouraging  the  arts  and 
sciences,  was  also  interdicted  as  offensive  to  the  views  of  the 
court.* 

It  was  not  until  early  in  the  present  century  that  the  first  re- 
corded symptoms  of  revolt  began  to  manifest  themselves.  There 
can  scarcely  be  drawn  any  parallel,  between  the  chain  of  events 
leading  to  the  Central  American  Revolution  and  that  of  the  Brit- 
ish American  colonies.  The  inborn  adherence  to  their  rights, 
and  the  sturdy  opposition  to  tyranny  distinguishing  the  patriots 
of  the  North,  were  wanting  in  the  lethargic  Central  Americans, 
among  whom  public  instruction  was  confined  to  the  wealthy  and 
the  members  of  the  Chuxch,  freedom  of  discussion  unknown,  and 
the  minds  of  the  people  shrouded  in  the  profoundest  ignorance. 
As  a consequence,  stirring  incidents  like  those  preceding  the 
American  Revolution  were  not  brought  out  by  resistance  to  in- 
novations upon  rights  which  the  people  lacked  the  intelligence 
to  appreciate  and  the  spirit  to  assert.  The  great  body  of  those 
who,  by  education,  were  able  to  estimate  the  beneficial  results 
of  a political  change,  were  the  occupants  of  lucrative  offices, 
which,  under  the  favor  of  the  viceroys,  had  descended  without 
contention  through  certain  families  almost  as  hereditary  privi- 
leges. 

Those  families  had  gradually  grown  into  a wealthy  aristocra- 
cy, assuming  the  title  of  Noblesse , some  of  them  having  pur- 
chased patents  of  nobility,  and  greedily  monopolizing  for  them- 
selves and  friends  every  avenue  to  preferment  and  wealth. 
Most  of  the  office-holders  were  American-born,  but  the  sons  of 
European  Spaniards.  The  overbearing  manners  of  an  ignorant, 
self-created  nobility,  possessing  no  virtuous  or  manly  traits,  in- 
stead of  inspiring  the  people  with  respect,  irritated  and  disgust- 
ed them.  The  more  intelligent  classes,  by  their  precarious  com- 
mercial intercourse  with  foreigners,  had  already  begun  to  esti- 
mate this  aristocracy,  as  well  as  the  power  of  the  mother  coun- 
try, at  its  real  value.  The  impression,  which  had  been  carefully 
inculcated  by  Spain  into  the  minds  of  her  colonists,  that  the  oth- 

* This  institution  ( Sociedad  Economica  de  los  Amigos  del  Regno ) was  re-estab- 
iished  after  the  Independence,  and  is  still  in  existence.  In  1855  it  contributed  a 
valuable  scientific  collection  to  the  Great  Exhibition  at  Paris. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


465 


er  nations  of  Europe  were  tributary  to  her,  had  been  dispelled  by 
the  great  events  agitating  Europe.  The  circulation  of  foreign 
news  and  the  introduction  of  the  useful  inventions  was  jealous- 
ly guarded  against;  but,  despite  these  precautions,  each  of  the 
provinces  had  its  galaxy  of  talented  and  liberally  educated  men. 
among  whom  could  be  cited  the  celebrated  scholar,  Dr.  Ruis,  of 
Nicaragua,  and  Senors  Yalle,  Barrundia,  and  Matute,  of  Hondu- 
ras and  Guatemala. 

Without  the  incentive  of  extreme  and  violent  acts  of  tyran- 
ny, such  as  usually  beget  opposition  in  an  oppressed  people,  the 
course  of  the  government  produced  an  increasing  discontent 
among  the  most  intelligent  and  reflective  men.  The  waning 
fortunes  of  Spain  had  given  rise  to  the  levying  of  contributions 
in  the  provinces,  which,  though  at  first  cheerfully  paid  by  all 
parties,  weighed  at  last  so  heavily  on  the  people  as  to  cause  au- 
dible murmurs  of  dissatisfaction. 

The  Indian  tribes,  afterward  a powerful  political  element  in 
Central  America,  had  been  for  many  years  ostensibly  protected, 
but  were  in  reality  kept  in  ignorance  and  inferiority.  The  Span- 
ish laws  considered  them  as  minors  for  life,  subjecting  them  to 
perpetual  tutelage.  Among  the  ordinances  to  prevent  their  re- 
ceiving instruction  in  any  way  was  one  prohibiting  the  Span- 
iards from  entering  the  Indian  villages  ; this,  however,  was  not 
enforced  for  many  years  previous  to  the  Independence.  The 
Indians  were  also  debarred  from  dancing  or  horse-riding,  to  pre- 
vent their  acquiring  any  of  the  exercises  of  war ; they  were  often 
cruelly  tortured  at  the  public  whipping-post,  and  proprietors  of 
mines  could  compel  them  to  work  at  stipulated  small  wages. 

The  feeble  encouragement  lent  by  the  government  to  the  prog- 
ress of  education  and  the  liberal  arts  in  Central  America  was 
gradually  withdrawn  toward  the  close  of  the  Spanish  sovereign- 
ty, and  the  system  of  exactions  and  unjust  contribution  in- 
creased in  rigor.  Some  fatality  seemed  to  hasten  the  Spanish 
government  to  acts  which  could  only  accelerate  the  separation 
from  her  of  the  provinces.  Pamphlets,  and  the  writings  and 
opinions  of  leading  men,  began  to  kindle  a yearning  for  freedom, 
which  increased  with  every  fresh  instance  of  oppression.  In- 
surrections took  place  in  1812  in  San  Salvador  and  Nicaragua, 
which  were  promptly  quelled,  and  the  disaffected  sent  to  Spain 

G G 


466 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


for  trial.  Costa  Rica,  which  took  part  against  the  insurgents, 
was  rewarded  with  the  title  of  muy  noble  conferred  upon  the 
city  of  Cartago,  and  ciudades  upon  the  villages  Heredia  and 
San  Jose.  The  city  of  Leon,  however,  claims  the  honor  of  hav- 
ing first  raised  the  cry  of  independence  from  Spain. 

Various  instances  of  rebellion  against  the  Spanish  authority 
occurred  up  to  1821,  animated,  doubtless,  by  the  example  of 
Mexico,  where  the  patriots  Hidalgo,  Morelos,  Mina,  and  Victo- 
ria had  waged  in  turn  a war  of  independence  with  varying  for- 
tunes since  1809.  The  triumph  of  the  patriotic  cause  in  Mexico 
fanned  the  flame  into  new  life  in  Central  America,  and  with  the 
arrival  of  Gavino  Gainza  from  Spain  with  news  of  the  recent 
political  changes  in  the  peninsula,  the  fate  of  Spanish  sovereign- 
ty was  sealed.  Conventions  were  held  at  Guatemala  by  the 
clergy  and  the  leading  families,  and  the  country  was  publicly 
declared  independent  on  the  15th  of  September,  1821,  amid  the 
shouts  of  the  populace.  The  revolution  was  a peaceable  and 
bloodless  one.  The  proclamation  or  declaration  of  independ- 
ence bears  the  signature  of  Gavino  Gainza,  afterward  Provision- 
al President ; but  this  document  was  the  product  of  the  patriot 
Jose  del  Valle,  who  at  that  epoch  appears,  in  point  of  zeal  and 
industry,  to  have  been  the  Samuel  Adams  of  Central  American 
independence.  The  Guatemalan  viceroyal  deputies  at  Madrid 
responded  to  this  declaration  on  the  following  December  by  a 
splendid  banquet,  fully  indorsing  the  proceedings  of  their  colo- 
nial fellow-citizens. 


GREAT  SEAL  OF  HONDURAS. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


467 


CHAPTER  XXY. 

HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  1821-1843. 

The  Central  American  Republic. — The  Serviles  and  Liberals. — Francisco  Mo- 
razan. — The  Republic  in  Prosperity.  — Rafael  Carrera. — Dissolution  of  the 
Union. — Morazan  a Fugitive. — Triumph  of  the  Serviles. — Return  of  Morazan. 
— His  Betrayal  and  Death. 

From  their  renunciation  of  Spanish  authority,  the  Central 
American  States  have  presented,  until  brief  intervals,  a deplora- 
ble spectacle  to  every  lover  of  republican  institutions.  The 
experiment  of  self-government,  after  thirty-five  years  of  revolu- 
tions and  exhausting  wars,  has  proved  itself  a lamentable  fail- 
ure. With  no  lack  of  patriotism,  or  a consciousness  of  then- 
responsible  position  before  the  world,  they  have  shown  a blind 
persistence  in  frantic  sectional  strifes  and  aimless  revolutions, 
each  of  which  has  but  the  more  fatally  impelled  the  country  to 
its  present  enfeebled  condition.  Various  styles  of  republican- 
ism have  arisen  and  disappeared,  and  a generation  has  passed 
away  in  the  futile  attempt  to  unite  forms  of  government  with 
political  theories,  while  between  them  only  repelling  forces  have 
existed. 

In  the  vain  endeavor  to  supply  radical  defects  by  a reorgan- 
ization of  the  social  system,  violent  and  frequent  changes,  in- 
volving wars  of  castes,  have  taken  place,  until  a country,  em- 
bracing the  most  valuable  portion  of  the  continent,  with  a geo- 
graphical position  as  an  avenue  for  universal  commerce  not  sur- 
passed in  the  globe,  has  descended,  with  surprising  rapidity,  to 
decay  and  political  insignificance.  The  example  afforded  by  the 
astonishing  progress  of  the  United  States  remained  unheeded, 
save  by  impracticable  imitations  of  our  Constitution,  without  the 
moderation  and  intelligence  to  turn  them  to  account.  Th e joro- 
nunciamientos  of  ambitious  leaders  were  generally  followed  by 
an  appeal  to  arms.  The  president  of  to-day  might  be  the  ex- 
ile of  to-morrow ; the  minister  ofi  one  week  the  fomenter  of  in- 
surrection the  next.  What  in  the  United  States  is  effected  by 


468 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  ballot-box,  was  there  accomplished  by  the  cannon  and  bay- 
onet. 

The  successive  eras  of  bloodshed  and  anarchy  are  illustra- 
tions of  the  great  truth  that  republican  institutions  can  not  ex- 
ist where  popular  ignorance  and  unprincipled  rulers  are  constant 
enemies  to  progress  and  the  blessings  of  liberty.  Auspicious 
as  was  the  dawn  of  freedom  upon  Central  America,  it  is  true 
that,  since  that  event,  the  country  has  afforded  but  a melan- 
choly caricature  upon  the  name  of  republicanism,  indicating  by 
incontestable  facts  that  its  ruin  was  but  precipitated  by  the 
separation  from  Spain. 

The  intelligence  of  the  independence  was  responded  to  in 
Honduras  and  San  Salvador  by  a similar  declaration  on  their 
part ; the  local  authorities  were  deposed,  but,  being  natives  of 
the  country,  were  reinstated  on  an  acquiescence  in  the  general 
movement.  Nicaragua  did  not  join  the  Revolution  until  the 
11th  of  October,  when  that  province  declared  for  the  Mexican 
plan  of  Iguala,  the  object  of  which  was  the  establishment  of  a 
Spanish  prince  on  the  throne,  but  to  be  independent  of  the  moth- 
er country.  A provisional  government  was  formed,  to  hold  pow- 
er until  the  1st  of  March,  1822.  A General  Congress  of  dele- 
gates from  the  provinces  met  at  Guatemala,  but  were  forcibly 
prevented  from  carrying  their  measures  into  effect  by  a popular 
tumult,  instigated  by  the  adherents  to  the  old  vice-royal  insti- 
tutions ; and  after  some  days  of  ineffectual  legislation  they  dis- 
solved. 

It  was  here  that  the  Liberals,  as  they  were  afterward  called, 
first  found  that  their  patriotic  views  were  not  to  be  realized 
without  a struggle.  The  establishment  of  Iturbide  on  the 
Mexican  throne  had  excited  the  ambition  of  a large  party  to 
form  an  empire  in  conjunction  with  that  country,  and  Gainza 
publicly  announced  his  views  as  favorable  to  such  a project  in 
a manifesto,  dated  5th  of  January,  which  he  read  in  person,  as 
President  of  the  Republic,  and  formally  announcing  the  connec- 
tion with  Mexico.*  San  Salvador  signalized  herself  by  an  un- 
* The  policy  of  Gainza  appears  to  have  been  anticipated  by  Vidaurre,  who, 
writing  from  Puerto  Principe,  says,  “La  noticia  que  voy  a comunicar  a V.  no 
debe  sorprenderle.  Guatemala  ha  declarado  su  Independencia,  y Gainza  esta 
a la  cabeza  del  sistema  libre.  ******  Pero  siendo  nombrado  Inspector 
General  Gainza  por  la  Espalia  y convertirse  contra  ella,  es  lo  que  no  desimulo. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


469 


compromising  opposition  to  this  measure.  She  erected  a gov- 
ernment of  her  own,  took  up  arms  in  defense  of  absolute  inde- 
pendence, and  was  seconded  by  a portion  of  Nicaragua.  The 
first  blood  shed  in  the  factious  wars  of  Central  America  was 
durum  the  strifes  at  Guatemala  between  the  Mexican  and  Ee- 

O 

publican  parties ; but  at  San  Salvador  was  fought,  on  the  3d 
of  June,  the  first  pitched  battle,  waged  by  the  Mexican  party 
against  that  state  in  support  of  the  pretensions  of  Iturbide. 
The  invading  army  was  defeated  and  dispersed.  The  provis- 
ional government  of  the  state,  aware  of  their  inability  to  cope 
with  Mexico  and  the  rest  of  Central  America,  publicly  proclaim- 
ed their  annexation  to  the  United  States  by  an  act  bearing  date 
the  2d  of  December,  but  it  is  not  known  that  any  reply  was 
made  to  the  decree.  San  Salvador  was  shortly  afterward  in- 
vested by  General  Filisola,  who  was  dispatched  against  it  with 
a large  force  from  Ciudad  Eeal.  The  city  surrendered  on  the 
7th  of  February,  1823,  and  Central  America  became  virtually 
incorporated  with  Mexico,  though  the  recognition  by  Costa  Eica, 
San  Salvador,  and  the  city  of  Granada  was  still  withheld. 

At  this  juncture  the  news  arrived  of  the  fall  of  Iturbide  in 
Mexico,  and  insurrections  breaking  out  in  various  sections  of 
the  republic  against  the  Mexican  authorities,  the  National  Con- 
stituent Assembly  again  convened  at  Guatemala.  On  the  24th 
of  June  the  “ Eepublic  of  Central  America”  was  proclaimed, 
consisting  of  the  five  Central  American  provinces  ; the  Federal 
Constitution  was  modeled  after  that  of  the  United  States  of 
North  America.  A national  flag  of  blue,  white,  and  blue  was 
adopted,  and  has  since  been  mainly  preserved  in  the  States  as 
distinct  sovereignties.  The  Assembly  enacted  many  liberal 
laws,  and,  at  the  close  of  the  year  1823,  the  republic  enjoyed 
uninterrupted  peace. 

During  the  ensuing  year  serious  insurrections  arose  in  Leon, 
Nicaragua,  where,  after  numerous  skirmishes  and  bloody  bat- 
tles, the  city  was  attacked  by  Sacano  and  Salas,  and  endured  a 
siege  of  one  hundred  and  fourteen  days,  in  which  the  most  hor- 

******  Gainza,  desde  que  fue  General  contra  Chili  manifesto  que  su 
plan  era  su  utilidad.  Queria  mando  y riquezas  en  aquel  partido  que  le  ofrici- 
ese  mayores  ventajas.” — Cartas  Americanos  Politicos  y Morales  sobre  la  Guerra 
Civil  de  las  Americas.  1823. 


470 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


rible  excesses  were  perpetrated ; but  the  besiegers  were  com- 
pelled to  retire  in  January,  1825.  This  war,  happening  in  1824, 
was  conducted  by  political  chieftains  for  the  commander-gen- 
eralship of  that  state,  and  was  finally  terminated  by  the  army 
of  the  republic  under  General  Arce. 

With  this  exception,  the  republic  remained  quiet  through  the 
years  1824-5,  and  was  engaged  in  defending  the  boundaries  of 
the  different  states  and  regulating  the  general  government.  On 
the  6th  of  February,  1825,  the  first  Federal  Congress  convened, 
and  General  Manuel  Jose  Arce  was  elected  President.  An  ec- 
clesiastical dispute  between  San  Salvador  and  Guatemala  was 
also  submitted  to  an  appeal  to  arms,  leaving  a rankling  hatred 
between  the  two  states  never  wholly  eradicated. 

The  second  Federal  Congress  opened  its  session  at  Guate- 
mala on  the  1st  of  March,  1826.  The  message  of  President  Arce 
is  perhaps  the  best  criterion  of  the  condition  of  the  republic  at 
that  time.  In  it  he  congratulates  the  Legislature  on  the  general 
tranquillity  enjoyed  by  the  States,  and  the  establishment  of 
friendly  relations  with  foreign  nations,  with  the  single  excep- 
tion of  Spain,  which  still  refused,  its  recognition  of  the  republic. 
Ministers  and  envoys  had  been  sent  to  the  principal  powers, 
and  a treaty  of  “commerce,  friendship,  and  navigation”  drawn 
up  at  Washington  by  the  Central  American  minister,  Seilor  Ca- 
nas.  The  Federal  system  had  been  perfected  throughout  the 
country,  the  public  debt  (“  credito  antiguo ”)  diminished,  and 
liberal  encouragement  held  out  to  foreign  enterprise. 

“ The  government,  anxious  to  establish  the  system  of  mutu- 
al instruction  after  the  establishment  of  the  new  government, 
directed  its  minister  at  the  United  States  to  procure  a professor, 
capable  of  transplanting  and  diffusing  that  plan  in  the  republic, 
while  it  disseminated  throughout  the  provinces  a pamphlet, 
printed  in  Mexico,  in  which  the  new  method  was  explained,  and 
a committee  was  selected  to  translate  the  projects  of  Fourcroy, 
Condorcet,  and  Talleyrand  on  the  subject  of  public  instruc- 
tion.”* 

The  fall  of  Iturbide  had  terminated  the  plans  of  the  Imperi- 
alists in  behalf  of  Mexico,  and  the  issue  of  permanent  alliance 
with  that  country  had  temporarily  ceased  to  exist.  The  polit- 
* Sketch  of  the  History  and  Present  State  of  Guatemala. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


471 


ical  parties  had  already  begun  to  be  known  as  the  “ Servile”  and 
“Liberal,”  though  it  was  not  until  the  election  of  Aycinena  as 
Governor  of  Guatemala  in  1826  that  the  factions  nominally  re- 
solved themselves  into  these  distinctions.  The  Liberals,  who 
possessed  some  of  the  ablest  and  most  patriotic  men  of  the 
country,  were  composed  of  the  large  body  of  the  middle  classes, 
who,  since  the  dawn  of  liberty,  had  particularly  labored  for  the 
establishment  of  a Federal  Republic,  modeled,  to  some  extent, 
after  that  of  the  United  States.  They  avowed  for  their  princi- 
ples the  equalizing  and  instruction  of  all  classes,  hostility  to  a 
revival  of  the  former  so-called  nobility  or  aristocracy,  and  the 
advancement  of  really  just  and  liberal  measures.  These,  in  their 
patriotic  zeal,  they  attempted  to  establish  among  a people  unfit- 
ted by  ignorance  and  hereditary  prejudices  to  understand  them. 

The  Serviles,  or  Conservatives,  were  understood  as  embracing 
the  remnants  of  the  old  aristocracy  and  the  priesthood,  who,  by 
wealth  and  religious  influence,  controlled  the  Indian,  negro,  and 
mixed  races.  Their  object  had  been,  as  disclosed  since  the  first 
days  of  the  Independence,  the  establishment  of  their  own  crea- 
tures in  power,  the  subversion  of  the  liberties  of  the  people,  and 
the  gradual  erection  of  a supreme  dictatorship  or  monarchy,  as 
circumstances  might  direct. 

The  republic  continued  to  exist  under  the  administration  of 
Arce  as  originally  decreed,  but  was  constantly  subjected  to  the 
destroying  agencies  of  both  political  parties.  Ambitious  lead- 
ers in  Guatemala,  Honduras,  and  Nicaragua  arose  against  the 
federal  authorities,  and  in  Costa  Rica  an  attempt  was  made,  in 
1826,  to  restore  the  Spanish  sovereignty.  These  rebellions, 
however,  were  mainly  instigated  by  the  Serviles,  who,  though 
looking  forward  to  eventual  monarchical  institutions,  now  con- 
fined themselves  to  the  work  of  supplanting  the  existing  author- 
ities by  their  own  partisans  as  the  safest  avenue  to  the  con- 
summation of  their  schemes.  Thus  the  wars  for  some  years 
were  ostensibly  waged  by  the  constituted  Federal  government 
against  the  insurrectionary  movements  in  the  several  states — 
movements  made,  not  so  much  for  the  purpose  of  effecting  an 
immediate  radical  change  in  the  government  as  for  the  elevation 
to  power  of  local  leaders  of  their  own  political  views. 

The  National  Assembly,  in  1824,  signalized  itself  by  abolish- 


472 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ing.  slavery  throughout  the  republic  thenceforth  and  forever — 
this  being  the  first  instance  of  national  action  on  this  subject  on 
the  American  continent.  The  whole  number,  however,  thus  eman- 
cipated, as  is  asserted  by  Molina,  did  not  exceed  one  thousand, 
whose  owners  were  indemnified  for  the  losses  thus  sustained. 
Mr.  Young  Anderson’s  report  says,  “ The  citizens  refused  pecu- 
niary compensation,  although  such  was  provided  and  offered.” 

It  was  in  the  midst  of  insurrections  against  the  general  gov- 
ernment that  President  Arce,  on  the  6th  of  September,  1826, 
professed  to  have  discovered  an  organization  against  the  repub- 
lic, led  by  Jose  Francisco  Barrundia,  then  Governor  of  Guate- 
mala, as  one  of  the  confederation  of  states.  With  an  arbitrary 
assumption  of  power  wholly  unwarranted  by  the  facts,  he  caused 
the  arrest  of  the  governor  while  presiding  over  the  State  Assem- 
bly, which  was  followed  by  the  disarming  of  the  civic  militia. 
An  extraordinary  national  Congress  was  convoked  by  Arce  for 
a reorganization  of  the  Federal  system,  but  dissensions  arising 
as  to  where  it  should  be  held,  it  never  convened,  and  following 
quickly  on  these  events  commenced  the  desolating  wars  which 
have  gradually  reduced  Central  America  to  its  present  pitiable 
condition.  Honduras  and  San  Salvador  declared  themselves  in- 
dependent of  the  confederation  in  the  following  year,  and  in  each 
of  these  states  severe  battles  were  fought  between  the  Liberal 
and  Servile,  or  Federal  forces,  with  varying  success,  but  the  vic- 
tory finally  declaring  for  the  combined  troops  of  Honduras  and 
Nicaragua,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant-colonel  Diaz. 

This  decisive  result  was  mainly  attributable  to  the  bravery 
and  skill  of  a native  of  Honduras,  Francisco  Morazan,  who 
thenceforth  became  the  acknowledged  chief  of  the  Liberal  party, 
and  in  all  respects  the  greatest  man  of  the  country.  This  lead- 
er was  born  about  the  year  1799,  in  Honduras ; his  father  was 
a native  of  Porto  Rico,  and  his  mother  a lady  of  Tegucigalpa. 
His  ancestors  were  natives  of  Corsica,  a fact  upon  which  he  is 
said  to  have  greatly  prided  himself.  He  was  distinguished  in 
youth  for  his  active  mind  and  impulsive  disposition,  and  his  tal- 
ents early  gained  him  a prominent  position  in  his  native  state. 
When  only  twenty-five  years  of  age  he  was  appointed  Secretary- 
general,  and  afterward  became  Governor  of  Honduras.  In  the 
fourteen  years  succeeding  his  first  victory  in  Honduras,  his  ca- 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


473 


veer  was  marked  with  singular  activity  and  skill,  and  an  unva- 
rying humanity  in  war  before  unknown  in  the  bloody  history 
of  Central  America.  He  is  said  to  have  united  the  qualities  of 
the  legislator  and  commander,  with  a frank,  chivalrous  bearing, 
inspiring  his  followers  with  a confidence  of  victory.  His  troops, 
animated  by  his  personal  bravery,  loved  and  followed  him  with 
feelings  akin  to  idolatry.  The  numerous  aboriginal  tribe  of 
Texiguat  Indians  joined  his  fortunes  with  scarcely  an  excep- 
tion— some  of  them  forming  his  jealous  and  faithful  body-guard 
— -addressing  him  by  the  affectionate  name  of  “ tio,”  and  cheer- 
fully following  him,  when  nearly  famished  and  exhausted,  on 
the  most  fatiguing  marches.* 

* “His  figure  was  good,  his  features  handsome  and  intelligent,  his  ruddy  com- 
plexion and  bright  blue  eye  proving  that  his  blood  was  different  from  that  of  his 


474 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Early  in  1828  Arce  was  craftily  deprived  of  his  position  as 
President  of  the  republic  by  the  Vice-president  Beltranca,  in 
whose  hands  he  had  temporarily  intrusted  the  supreme  power, 
and  who  continued  to  exercise  the  functions  of  office  until  Jan- 
uary of  the  following  year.  During  1828  San  Salvador  was 
the  scene  of  hotly-contested  battles  between  the  Federal  forces, 
under  the  command  of  General  Arce,  and  the  state  troops,  in 
which  the  latter  were  twice  defeated,  and  the  engagements  sig- 
nalized by  the  most  appalling  butcheries  of  prisoners.  The  Fed- 
eral government  was  temporarily  re-established  in  San  Salva- 
dor, but  was  soon  afterward  driven  out  by  the  inhabitants,  who 
defeated  the  troops  and  took  prisoners  the  Servile  leaders.  In 
the  same  year  the  Guatemalan  forces  were  routed  by  those  of 
Honduras,  commanded  by  Morazan,  who  had  now  assumed  the 
rank  of  general-in-chief  of  the  Liberal  forces.  The  victory  which 
took  place  on  the  banks  of  the  River  Lempa,  in  San  Salvador, 
was  followed  up  with  vigor,  and  the  defeated  troops  being  a sec- 
ond time  attacked,  they  laid  down  their  arms.  This  engage- 
ment terminated  the  Federal  authority  under  Servile  auspices  in 
Central  America,  and  the  influence  of  that  party  thenceforth  rap- 
idly declined.  Conspiracies  and  insurrections  occurred  in  Gua- 
temala, and  in  January,  1829,  the  authorities  of  the  state  hav- 
ing been  deposed,  Morazan  considered  the  time  an  auspicious 
one  for  an  invasion  of  the  state,  which  he  shortly  after  accom- 
plished, at  the  head  of  two  thousand  San  Salvador  and  Hondu- 
ras troops.  After  several  engagements,  the  city  of  Guatemala 
was  carried,  the  existing  authorities  expelled,  and  those  deposed 
by  the  mob  at  Quesaltenango  in  1826  reinstated  in  office.  The 
former  deputies  and  leading  men  of  the  Liberal  party  assembled, 
and  extraordinary  honors  were  decreed  to  Morazan.  The  old 
Federal  Congress  again  assembled,  and  Barrundia,  formerly  Gov- 
ernor of  Guatemala,  was  nominated  President,  Morazan  gener- 
ously abstaining  from  availing  himself  of  his  military  power. 

mongrel  Spanish  countrymen.  His  address  was  frank  and  independent,  and 
quite  free  from  the  mixture  of  pride  and  ignorance,  fawning  and  insolence,  so 
universal  in  the  natives  of  Spanish  America  who  have  attained  a little  brief 
authority.  He  had  acquired  a knowledge  of  the  French  language  after  leaving 
school,  and  from  reading  French  books  and  history,  combined  with  his  descent, 
had  imbibed  a great  partiality  for  that  nation.” — Dunlop's  Travels  in  Centr  d 
America,  p.  171. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


475 


One  of  the  first  important  acts  of  Morazan,  after  his  triumph- 
ant re-establishment  of  the  Liberal  party  in  power,  was  to  strike 
at  the  root  of  the  disturbances  which  had  hitherto  agitated  the 
country.  A conspiracy  against  the  new  government  being  dis- 
covered on  the  part  of  the  Archbishop  of  Guatemala,  he  was 
banished,  in  company  with  the  principal  monks  and  friars  of 
that  state.  This  decisive  proceeding  met  with  universal  ap- 
proval, and  the  Congress  followed  it  with  decrees  prohibiting 
females  from  becoming  nuns  for  the  future,  and  suppressing  all 
male  convents.  The  act  was  immediately  carried  into  effect 
throughout  the  republic.  The  exactions  and  severities  prac- 
ticed by  the  Servile  party  while  in  power  was  met  by  the  new 
government  with  general  confiscations  of  property.  The  justice 
and  prudence  of  this  proceeding  has  been  called  in  question ; 
but  such  severities  were  in  part  merited  by  those  who  had  not 
scrupled  to  enrich  themselves  at  the  expense  of  the  defeated, 
a practice  which  has  since  been  followed  in  Central  America. 
Arce,  Beltranea,  and  the  State  and  Federal  ministers  of  the  Ser- 
vile party  were  banished  by  act  of  the  new  Congress. 

The  Liberal  party  had  now  regained  their  position  in  Cen- 
tral America.  So  general  seemed  the  desire  of  the  people  to 
witness  the  re-establishment  of  the  principles  enunciated  at  the 
Independence,  and  for  which  the  most  illustrious  citizens  of  the 
republic  had  labored  for  years  preceding  and  subsequent  to  the 
Revolution,  that  scarcely  a dissenting  voice  was  heard  against 
the  new  order  of  affairs.  The  confederation  of  states  was  re- 
newed, public  education  fostered,  foreign  immigration  encour- 
aged, and  the  most  intelligent  and  capable  men  of  the  country 
placed  in  the  leading  offices.  At  no  time  since  the  Independ- 
ence has  Central  America  enjoyed  an  equal  interval  of  tranquil- 
lity. The  praise  of  this  striking  social  revolution  is  principally 
due  to  Morazan,  who  now  evinced  for  the  cabinet  a talent  not 
exceeded  by  that  already  displayed  in  the  field. 

During  the  years  1829,  ’30,  ’31,  the  military  operations  of 
Morazan  were  confined  to  the  extermination  of  bands  of  robbers 
who  had  formed  during  the  civil  wars.  Such  was  his  desire  to 
maintain  peace,  even  at  the  hazard  of  his  own  power,  that,  al- 
though Costa  Rica  declared  itself  independent  of  the  republic 
shortly  after  the  establishment  of  the  Liberal  party,  he  prefer- 


476 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


red  that  example  rather  than  force  should  restore  her  to  the 
confederation.  His  prudence  and  judgment  were  justified,  and 
early  in  1831  that  state  peaceably  acknowledged  the  Federal 
authority. 

The  same  moderation  was  shown  in  his  management  of  the 
factions  of  Honduras  in  1829.  An  insurrection  breaking  out 
in  Olancho,  produced  by  an  attempt  at  taxation,  was  quelled  by 
Morazan  in  person,  who,  with  a small  escort,  proceeded  into  the 
department,  and  by  his  conciliatory  measures  succeeded  in  re- 
storing peace.  The  goal  toward  which  the  most  patriotic  men 
of  the  country  had  struggled  unceasingly  for  many  years  seem- 
ed now  to  have  been  reached.  The  republic  had  already  as- 
sumed a position  among  the  nations. 

This  season  of  tranquillity  was  destined  to  but  short  dura- 
tion. The  rude  hand  of  war,  with  all  the  elements  of  discord, 
appeared  to  have  slumbered  during  this  interval  only  to  burst 
forth  with  the  greater  fury.  In  1832  the  exiled  President  Arce 
returned  with  a large  force  from  Mexico,  and  nearly  simultane- 
ously insurrections  broke  out  in  San  Salvador.  Morazan  prompt- 
ly invaded  the  state,  and,  having  met  and  defeated  the  insurgents, 
took  the  city  of  San  Salvador,  arrested  the  Revolutionists,  and 
sent  them  to  Guatemala  for  trial.  He  then  committed  the  in- 
discretion of  assuming  the  supreme  power  of  the  state,  an  error 
which  was  taken  advantage  of  by  the  expectant  Serviles  to  ex- 
cite discontent  and  rebellion  throughout  the  country.  Various 
causes  of  dissatisfaction  were  discovered,  secession  was  openly 
advocated  as  a coercive  measure,  and  in  April,  1833,  Honduras, 
San  Salvador,  Nicaragua,  and  Costa  Rica  had  formally  renounced 
the  authority  of  the  Federal  government.  Though  a disruption 
of  the  States  had  virtually  taken  place,  the  actual  dissolution  of 
the  Central  American  Union  can  not  be  said  to  have  occurred, 
as  the  Federal  authorities  thereafter  continued  to  discharge  the 
functions  of  office.  The  new  Congress  on  the  basis  of  an  equal 
representation  of  the  States  never  met. 

Frequent  internal  dissensions  occurred  in  the  state  through 
the  years  1834—5,  in  only  one  of  which — that  relating  to  San 
Salvador — the  State  and  F ederal  authorities  came  into  collision. 
Though  the  year  1836  was  a recurrence  of  the  limited  era  of 
tranquillity  above  referred  to,  no  successful  attempt  was  made 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


477 


to  re-establish  the  Federal  government  on  a firm  basis.  Mean- 
while the  Servile  party,  watchful  of  events,  had  been  actively 
but  silently  concerting  measures  to  regain  their  former  power. 
Besides  being  mainly  instrumental  in  exciting  the  States  to  re- 
bellion, they  had  joined  with  the  priesthood  in  instigating  the 
Indians  to  rise  against  the  authorities. 

The  first  recorded  organization  of  the  aboriginal  tribes  against 
the  government  (a  movement  with  which  commenced  the  down- 
fall of  the  republic,  and  influenced  materially  the  subsequent  his- 
tory of  the  country)  occurred  in  June,  1836.  It  was  in  this  year 
that  the  cholera  first  made  its  appearance  in  Central  America. 
The  priests  availed  themselves  of  the  terror  inspired  by  the  epi- 
demic to  excite  the  lower  orders  against  the  authorities,  persuad- 
ing them  that  the  mortality  was  caused  by  the  poisoning  of  the 
springs  by  the  government  agents.  Serious  disturbances  en- 
sued ; the  doctors,  who  had  been  commissioned  to  visit  the  lo- 
calities where  the  disease  was  most  prevalent,  were  murdered, 
and  all  efforts,  made  by  the  government  or  by  private  means  for 
the  relief  of  the  suffering  Indians,  were  artfully  construed  by 
the  priests  and  members  of  the  Servile  party  to  the  accomplish- 
ment of  their  dark  designs.  The  adoption  of  the  Livingston 
Code  of  Laws,  and  the  establishment  of  the  new  court  for  trial 
by  jury  in  1836,  had  gradually  become  extremely  unpopular, 
especially  among  the  Indians  who  had  been  compelled  to  labor 
in  the  construction  of  the  new  prisons.  Each  of  these  causes  of 
discontent  was  exaggerated  and  distorted  by  the  active  agents 
of  the  Servile  party.  The  disorders  arising  from  these  causes, 
at  first  regarded  with  unconcern  by  the  government,  speedily 
assumed  an  aspect  well  calculated  to  excite  alarm.  Great  num- 
bers of  the  Indians  met  in  the  town  of  Santa  Rosa,  in  Guate- 
mala, and,  being  visited  by  a body  of  government  troops  with 
orders  to  disperse  the  assemblage,  a collision  ensued,  resulting 
in  the  defeat  of  the  soldiers. 

As  the  battle  in  October,  1827,  which  brought  the  military 
talent  of  Morazan  into  notice,  was  on  that  account  an  occurrence 
of  lasting  importance  in  the  history  of  Central  America,  so  the 
affair  at  Santa  Rosa  was  an  event  of  equal  moment,  as  first  in- 
troducing into  political  life  the  Indian  leader,  Rafael  Carrera,  a 


478 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


man  thenceforth  to  exert  a baneful  influence  on  the  destinies  of 
the  republic.* 

The  year  1838  came  in  with  renewed  rebellions  in  various 
departments  of  Guatemala.  As  early  as  January  the  city  of 
Guatemala  was  taken  by  Pedro  Yalasquez,  who  assumed  the 
authority  with  scarcely  any  opposition  from  the  inhabitants. 
During  this  time,  Carrera,  who  in  cunning  and  fertility  of  expe- 
dient had  become  a formidable  enemy,  had  collected  a large 
body  of  Indians  in  Mita,  where  he  was  attacked  by  General  Mo- 
razan  in  March,  and  his  forces  routed.  The  campaign,  however, 
produced  no  important  results,  and  a second  one,  in  November, 
terminated  in  treaties,  with  which  the  year  closed.  In  view  of 
the  alarming  aspect  of  affairs,  the  supreme  authority  was  tem- 
porarily consigned  to  General  Morazan,  Senor  Paz  assuming 
meanwhile  the  duties  of  chief  magistrate. 

But  the  insurgents  in  San  Salvador,  taking  advantage  of  the 
disturbed  condition  of  the  government,  had  again  organized  un- 
der the  leadership  of  Francisco  Malespin,  and  in  August,  Mo- 
razan proceeding  thither  to  quell  the  revolt,  his  absence  was  im- 
proved by  Carrera  to  attack  the  Federal  troops  under  Bonilla, 
who  was  completely  routed.  Emboldened  by  this  triumph,  the 

* Dunlop  describes  Carrera  as  a “ dark-colored  and  extremely  ill-1  ooking  Mes- 
tizo. He  was  originally  a servant  to  a woman  of  no  very  respectable  character 
in  Amatitlan,  and  afterward  to  a Spaniard,  from  whom  he  is  supposed  to  have 
got  the  little  knowledge  and  breeding  he  possessed  when  he  first  appeared  or. 
the  political  stage  in  Guatemala.  Afterward  he  was  employed  as  a pig-driver, 
that  is,  in  purchasing  and  personally  driving  pigs  from  the  villages  to  Guatemala, 
and  the  more  populous  towns.  *******  It  must  be  allowed,  however,  that, 
though  at  the  commencement  of  his  power  he  perpetrated  some  horrid  acts  of 
cruelty  which  any  one  must  shudder  to  recount,  and  frequently  put  to  death  his 
real  or  supposed  enemies  with  the  most  dreadful  tortures,  without  a shadow  of 
proof  or  form  of  trial,  he  has  since  conducted  himself  with  remarkable  modera 
tion,  and  has  done  much  to  improve  the  administration  of  the  laws,  destroy  rob- 
bers, and  consolidate  the  government.  By  extortions  and  confiscations  he  hac 
amassed  some  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  in  cash,  lands,  and  houses,  and 
it  is  consequently  his  interest  to  maintain  a settled  government  and  give  pro- 
tection to  property;  but  in  his  private  life  he  is  more  indecently  immoral  than 
could  be  conceived  or  understood  by  most  English  readers.  * ******  All 
classes,  except  the  Indians,  have  never  ceased  to  hate  and  fear  him,  and  watch 
an  opportunity  to  overturn  his  power ; and,  though  he  takes  great  care  always  to 
keep  a body  of  troops  near  his  person,  and  has  large  supplies  of  arms  and  am- 
munition at  hand,  he  will  certainly  find  that  the  very  best  troops  in  whom  hr 
trusts  will  betray  him,  and  that  the  arms  and  ammunition  will  one  day  be  used 
for  his  destruction.” — Page  89. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


479 


insurgents  advanced  upon  Old  Guatemala,  which  they  occupied 
without  resistance  on  the  following  day.  They  were  encoun- 
tered by  the  Federal  troops  under  Salazar,  and  in  their  turn  de- 
feated with  great  slaughter.  Had  this  leader  followed  up  this 
advantage,  the  successes  of  Carrera  might  have  been  effectually 
checked ; hut,  owing  to  some  disputes  with  rival  commanders, 
he  pettishly  resigned  his  commission,  and,  the  faction  gaining 
power  daily,  the  opportunity  was  lost. 

The  National  Congress  this  year  passed  an  act  authorizing 
the  several  states  to  frame  laws  for  their  own  government,  the 
Federal  power  reserving  its  general  authority  and  the  right  to 
collect  the  customs.  The  act  was  a virtual  acknowledgment  of 
the  disruption  of  the  States.  A few  months  later,  the  twelfth 
and  last  session  of  this  assembly  was  held,  and  immediately 
after  the  States  proclaimed  their  entire  independence,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  organize  distinct  governments.  The  act  of  Nicaragua 
declaring  itself  free,  sovereign,  and  independent,  is  dated  April 
30th,  1838.*  Although  a dissolution  of  the  confederation  had 
been  formerly  announced  by  all  the  states  excepting  Guatema- 
la in  1832,  the  Union  appears  to  have  been  tacitly  preserved 
and  the  National  Congress  recognized  up  to  February,  1839, 
when  Morazan  concluded  his  second  presidential  term ; and 
with  that  expiration  the  Central  American  republic  may  be  said 
to  have  ended. 

The  year  1839  commenced  with  a general  warlike  movement 
throughout  Central  America.  A total  revolution  had  occurred 
in  Guatemala,  and  the  short  space  of  twelve  years  had  witness- 
ed the  rise  and  fall  of  the  Liberal  party.  Carrera,  from  a pas- 
sive instrument  in  the  hands  of  the  Servile  party,  had  become  an 
ambitious  leader,  wielding  a terrible  engine  of  destruction — the 
Indian  hordes  of  Guatemala — but  yet  subservient  to  the  behests 
of  the  priesthood,  who,  in  their  determination  to  crush  Morazan 
and  restore  the  lost  privileges  of  the  Church,  did  not  scruple  to 

* The  Federal  compact  having  been  thus  dissolved,  the  decree  of  April  17th, 
1824,  of  the  National  Assembly,  abolishing  slavery  in  Central  America,  was  ren- 
dered null  and  void  for  Nicaragua,  a circumstance  since  seized  upon  by  Walker 
(September  22d,  1856)  to  revive  the  original  laws  of  the  Spanish  viceroyalty  as 
to  slavery,  the  right  to  hold  which  was  thus  virtually  acknowledged,  and  that  in- 
stitution again  sanctioned  in  a country  by  which,  thirty-two  years  previously,  it 
had  been  rejected  at  the  first  session  of  the  Republican  Legislature. 


480 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


let  loose  the  whirlwind,  which  neither  they  nor  the  self-created 
nobles  of  the  Servile  party  were  afterward  able  to  control. 

It  was  now  that  Morazan  began  to  display  in  an  imminent 
degree  the  tireless  energy  and  invincible  perseverance  which  has 
left  his  name  a landmark  in  the  history  of  his  country.  The 
State  of  San  Salvador  still  adhered  to  the  old  Federal  govern- 
ment, and  Morazan,  constituting  its  capital  his  head-quarters, 
collected  around  him  a considerable  body  of  troops,  in  addition 
to  those  who  had  inseparably  linked  their  fortunes  with  his. 
Faithful  to  the  principles  he  had  espoused  from  his  earliest  as- 
sociation with  public  life,  he  determined  to  maintain  the  Liberal 
cause,  and,  refusing  to  recognize  the  dissolution  of  the  Union, 
retained  the  name  of  President,  and  prepared  to  meet  the  storm 
which  now  threatened  him  from  every  quarter. 

The  first  important  move  was  from  Nicaragua,  from  whence 
two  thousand  men  entered  San  Salvador,  defeated  the  Federal 
troops  at  the  River  Lempa,  and  took  possession  of  San  Yicente. 
After  several  bloody  engagements,  a decisive  victory  was  gained 
by  Morazan  over  the  united  forces  of  Honduras  and  Nicaragua, 
commanded  by  General  Francisco  Ferrara,  who,  after  the  sub- 
sequent complete  restoration  of  the  Servile  party,  exercised  in 
Honduras  a tyrannical  rule  scarcely  less  arbitrary  than  that  of 
Carrera  in  Guatemala. 

The  victory  of  the  River  Lempa  was  followed  by  similar  suc- 
cesses in  Honduras.  General  Jose  Trinidad  Cabanas,  whose 
character  and  public  services  have  been  elsewhere  described, 
was  dispatched  by  Morazan  to  pursue  the  retreating  enemy. 
After  several  engagements,  Cabanas  took  possession  of  Coma- 
yagua  on  the  28th  of  August,  1839,  and  shortly  after  of  Teguci- 
galpa. Ferrara,  meanwhile,  had  sustained  a second  defeat  at 
the  hands  of  Morazan,  who,  with  a comparatively  small  force, 
attacked  and  routed  his  forces  with  great  slaughter.  These 
successes,  however,  were  but  the  precursors  of  the  ruin  to  which 
the  Liberal  party  was  rapidly  hastening.  The  mob  in  San  Sal- 
vador, excited  by  the  emissaries  of  the  Serviles  and  the  priest- 
hood, arose  against  the  authority  of  Morazan,  but  the  insurrec- 
tion was  speedily  quelled.  The  nominal  authority  of  the  Lib- 
eral party  was  formerly  renounced  by  a general  revolution 
throughout  Guatemala,  while  Carrera,  who  had  been  silently 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


481 


but  actively  collecting  his  forces,  made  a sudden  incursion  upon 
the  city  of  Guatemala,  which,  being  entirely  at  his  mercy,  fell 
without  resistance  into  his  hands. 

A succession  of  diabolical  cruelties  followed  the  establish- 
ment of  Carrera’s  authority  in  Guatemala.  The  party  which, 
for  the  furtherance  of  its  own  nefarious  designs,  had  not  hesi- 
tated to  encourage  the  ferocious  advance  of  this  brutal  leader, 
now  found  itself  unable  to  control  the  power  they  had  invoked. 
Supported  by  his  Indian  hordes,  who  from  affinity  of  blood  and 
associations  had  become  a terrible  and  irresistible  agent  ever 
at  his  command,  Carrera  assumed  the  dictatorship,  and  com- 
menced a system  of  murders  and  proscriptions  against  all  of  the 
opposite  party  who  had  not  made  their  escape.  On  the  17th 
of  April  the  confederation  of  states  was  declared  dissolved,  and 
the  State  of  Guatemala  erected  into  an  independent  government. 

The  progressive  and  liberal  laws  enacted  by  the  preceding 
governments  were  annulled,  and  some  institutions  which  had 
been  abolished  by  Morazan  were  revived.  Carrera,  however, 
refused  to  restore  to  the  priesthood  many  of  the  Church  privi- 
leges, wisely  refraining  from  recreating  a power  which,  once 
firmly  seated,  would  have  quickly  overthrown  his  authority. 
Each  of  the  states  named  presidents  or  other  executive  officers, 
and  nominal  forms  of  government  were  established,  though  the 
empty  name  of  republic  still  continued  to  be  used. 

The  year  1840  was  marked  with  many  important  events. 
The  power  of  Carrera  being  established,  he  directed  his  efforts 
toward  inciting  an  insurrection  in  the  Department  of  Quesalte- 
nango,  which,  after  the  dissolution  of  the  republic,  had  erected 
itself  into  a sovereign  state  under  the  name  of  Los  Altos.  A 
division  of  Los  Altos  troops,  marching  to  effect  a junction  with 
the  forces  of  Morazan  in  San  Salvador,  were  defeated  by  those 
of  Guatemala  under  General  Monteroso,  and  on  the  following 
day  Carrera  routed  and  dispersed  the  remainder  of  the  oppos- 
ing army,  after  which  the  victors  took  possession  of  Quesal- 
tenango,  which  thenceforth  became  an  integral  part  of  Guate- 
mala. This  result  had  been  the  object  of  Carrera  in  exciting,  by 
means  of  his  emissaries,  the  rebellion  in  Los  Altos.  Through- 
out this  war,  which  was  confined  to  Guatemala,  the  most  appall- 
ing cruelties  were  perpetrated  by  the  invading  troops.  The  of- 

H H 


482 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


fleers  of  the  government  were  brutally  murdered,  and  in  man}' 
instances  put  publicly  to  death  by  slow  tortures  too  horrible  for 
narration. 

During  this  year  all  industry  and  commerce  came  to  an  end. 
Towns  had  fallen  to  ruins,  agriculture  had  ceased,  and  the 
whole  country  relapsed  into  a state  of  wretched  barbarism. 
From  this  description,  however,  Costa  Rica  should  be  partially 
excepted ; her  position,  remote  from  the  theatre  of  war,  had  ex- 
empted her  from  participating  in  the  strifes  of  her  neighbors, 
and  the  rapid  settlement  of  foreigners  had  been  a powerful  ele- 
ment in  the  development  of  her  resources. 

The  greatest  efforts  of  General  Morazan  had  only  enabled 
him  to  collect  twelve  hundred  men,  with  whom  to  oppose  the 
alarming  progress  of  Carrera.  Secret  advices  from  Guatema- 
la had  represented  the  present  as  a favorable  moment  for  ac- 
tion, and,  advancing  from  San  Salvador  with  his  small  army,  he 
fought  his  way  to  Guatemala,  which  he  entered  and  took  pos- 
session of  on  the  18th  of  March.  Here  he  was  surrounded  by 
five  thousand  troops  under  Carrera,  and,  being  deserted  by  the 
perfidious  parties  who  had  invited  him  into  the  country,  he  was 
forced  to  cut  his  way  out  of  the  city  through  the  masses  of  the 
enemy,  leaving  one  half  of  his  troops  behind,  many  of  whom  had 
fallen  in  the  twenty-four  hours  of  desperate  fighting  preceding 
the  order  to  retreat.  Those  who  were  unable  to  escape  were 
barbarously  massacred  by  order  of  Carrera.  A party  of  officers, 
who  sought  refuge  in  the  British  consulate,  were  surrendered  by 
the  consul,  with  the  understanding  that  they  should  have  a le- 
gal trial,  but  were  immediately  butchered  in  the  streets. 

Morazan  effected  a masterly  retreat  toward  San  Salvador, 
steadily  repulsing  the  detachments  sent  in  pursuit.  His  wav- 
ering fortunes  had  lost  him  the  few  adherents  still  remaining  in 
San  Salvador,  and,  seeing  the  country  hopelessly  passed  into 
the  power  of  the  Servile  party,  he  embarked  on  the  5th  of  April 
from  the  port  of  Libertad,  with  thirty-five  friends  and  partisans, 
and  arrived  safely  at  Valparaiso  in  Chili. 

The  object  of  the  Servile  party,  which  from  the  first  had  been 
the  restoration  of  the  Spanish  form  of  government,  was  far  from 
being  accomplished  by  the  overthrow  of  Morazan  and  the  Lib- 
erals. Their  policy,  which  they  had  fondly  hoped  to  advance 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


483 


by  enlisting  the  sword  of  Carrera,  had  been  artfully  considered 
by  this  leader,  who  now  showed  himself  to  be  possessed  of  qual- 
ities for  intrigue  and  command  as  surprising  to  his  creators  as 
they  were  inimical  to  their  plans.  Backed  by  his  faithful  but 
terrible  Indian  multitudes,  and  by  the  priesthood,  whom  he  had 
found  means  to  conciliate,  he  defied  the  efforts  of  the  old  party 
to  regain  their  political  power,  and  was  thenceforth  the  virtual 
supreme  dictator  of  the  state.  The  departure  of  the  only  man 
with  the  nerve  and  talent  to  make  a formidable  enemy  left  him 
nothing  to  fear,  and  his  attention  was  then,  as  it  has  since  been, 
mainly  directed  to  the  gradual  absorption  of  the  remaining  states 
into  one  power,  under  his  own  authority. 

As  an  act  of  retaliation  upon  San  Salvador,  that  state  was 
immediately  invaded  by  Carrera  with  an  overwhelming  force, 
the  authorities  overthrown  and  replaced  by  others  in  his  own  in- 
terest, Malespin  being  appointed  the  military  commander.  The 
march  of  these  invaders  was  marked  with  scenes  of  outrage  and 
plunder  still  recurred  to  by  the  inhabitants  with  breathings  of 
revenge  and  hate  toward  Carrera  and  his  party. 

The  States  remained  at  peace  after  the  departure  of  Morazan 
and  throughout  the  year  1841.  An  attempt  was  made  in  the 
following  year,  in  Nicaragua,  to  restore  the  Federal  form  of  gov- 
ernment between  that  state  and  Honduras  and  San  Salvador : 
but,  although  a president  was  chosen,  and  a supreme  tribunal 
of  legal  appeal  and  a body  of  councilors  decided  upon,  the  proj- 
ect failed,  owing  to  the  refusal  of  Guatemala  and  Costa  Rica 
to  co-operate.  The  year  1842  is  also  a memorable  one  in  the 
history  of  Central  America  as  that  in  which  General  Morazan 
returned  from  his  voluntary  exile.  Receiving  encouraging  ac- 
counts from  his  partisans  in  San  Salvador,  he  landed  at  La. 
Union  in  February.  The  intelligence  of  his  return  was  received 
with  renewed  hopes  by  the  now  despairing  Liberals,  some  of 
whom  hastened  to  join  him  at  the  port.  The  State  Legislature, 
however,  immediately  passed  a decree  of  proscription  against 
him  and  his  followers,  and  in  Guatemala  his  movements  were 
regarded  with  ill-concealed  alarm.  The  hostile  attitude  of  the 
existing  government  convinced  Morazan  that  the  time  was  not 
an  auspicious  one  for  revolutionizing  that  state,  and,  re-embark- 
ing, he  proceeded  to  Costa  Rica,  where,  with  his  followers,  he 


484 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


landed  at  the  port  of  Calderas.  Accompanied  by  a considera- 
ble number  of  partisans,  he  marched  toward  San  Jose,  and,  win- 
ning over  the  small  force  at  Jocote,  he  entered  the  capital  of 
the  state,  where  he  was  received  with  extraordinary  demonstra- 
tions of  joy.  Carrillo,  the  governor,  was  deposed  by  the  spon- 
taneous act  of  the  people,  and  his  life  saved  from  their  fury  by 
the  moderation  of  Morazan,  who  ordered  him  to  be  safely  escort- 
ed to  Calderas,  whence  he  embarked  for  San  Salvador. 

General  Morazan  was  elected  governor  of  the  state,  and 
scarcely  had  he  consolidated  his  new  government  when  he  com- 
menced organizing  an  army  for  the  support  of  those  patriotic 
principles  in  the  defense  of  which  he  had  passed  the  best  part 
of  his  life.  His  first  attempts  were  made  against  Nicaragua, 
the  forces  of  which,  as  Morazan  declares  in  his  last  testament, 
were  preparing  to  invade  the  disputed  Department  of  Guana- 
caste,  ostensibly  to  defend  its  territory,  but  in  reality  a renewal 
of  the  Servile  faction  to  crush  the  threatened  revival  of  the  Lib- 
eral party  in  Central  America.  Had  he  been  successful  in  en- 
tering Nicaragua  as  he  proposed,  he  would  from  that  point  have 
set  on  foot  a military  expedition  sufficiently  powerful  to  subdue 
Central  America  and  re-establish  the  republic. 

His  political  views  had  been  materially  enlarged  and  improved 
by  his  twenty  months’  residence  in  South  America.  During  his 
exile,  far  removed  from  the  exciting  theatre  of  strife,  he  had 
availed  himself  of  his  leisure  to  make  minute  observations  upon 
the  governmental  policy  of  Chili  and  Peru,  to  note  their  defects, 
and  compare  their  advantages  with  the  inexperienced  institu- 
tions of  his  own  country.  He  came  prepared  to  introduce  many 
important  changes  into  the  former  republican  system  of  Central 
America,  and  advanced  to  the  work  with  an  ardor  and  sincerity 
which  can  leave  no  question  of  the  purity  of  his  motives. 

But  twenty  years  of  bloodshed  and  fruitless  changes  had  im- 
bued the  Costa  Ricans  with  a prudent  dislike  of  military  expe- 
ditions. Though  less  prostrated  than  the  other  states,  Costa 
Rica  had  learned  by  sad  experience  the  demoralizing  and  de- 
structive effects  of  revolutions.  The  general  desire  of  the  peo- 
ple was  to  keep  aloof  from  the  dissensions  of  the  country,  a pol- 
icy, with  rare  exceptions,  steadily  adhered  to  since  the  Inde- 
pendence, and  exhibiting  as  its  results  a condition  of  prosperity 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


485 


affording  a surprising  contrast  to  the  deplorable  state  of  the  sis- 
ter republics.  The  efforts  of  Morazan  to  raise  troops  and  mon- 
ey were  disapproved  by  the  Legislature,  and  the  conscriptions 
evaded  in  every  way  by  the  people.  Every  discouragement 
was  thrown  in  his  path,  not  only  by  the  apathetic  spirit  of  the 
Costa  Ricans,  but  by  the  artful  intrigues  of  foreign  agents  and 
those  of  Guatemala,  who  lost  no  opportunity  to  inflame  the  dis- 
content of  the  lower  classes.  The  known  antipathy  of  Mora- 
zan to  the  priesthood,  and  his  banishment  of  the  friars  from  Gua- 
temala in  1829,  had  created  a powerful  enemy  in  the  Church. 
The  contribution  of  $50,000,  which  he  demanded  for  the  pur- 
poses of  this  war,  had  not  been  raised  in  August,  and  secret  or- 
ganizations had  already  been  formed  against  him. 

The  popular  feeling  against  Morazan  was  greatly  imbittered 
by  an  unfortunate  event,  which  alienated  from  him  some  of  the 
most  influential  families  of  the  state,  and  probably  hastened  his 
tragical  end.  A young  lady  of  Costa  Rica  had  been  abducted 
from  her  father’s  house  by  one  of  Morazan’s  officers,  an  affair 
which  led  to  his  imprisonment  by  his  superior  officer,  General 
Rivas.  Mortified  by  this  indignity,  and  rendered  desperate  by 
the  loss  of  the  lady,  Molina  excited  an  insurrection  among  the 
troops,  and,  assuming  the  command,  had  Rivas  put  to  death. 
General  Sachet  was  dispatched  to  Calderas  with  the  flower  of 
the  army  to  be  present  at  the  trial  of  Molina,  who,  although  the 
most  strenuous  efforts  were  made  by  his  friends  to  save  his  life, 
was  condemned  and  shot.  The  youth  and  previous  character 
of  Molina,  his  apathy  concerning  Iris  fate,  and  his  voluntary  sur- 
render to  the  authorities  after  the  first  fatal  act,  were  all  urged 
by  his  family  and  friends,  but  in  vain.  Morazan,  though  mild 
and  relenting  in  disposition,  was  inflexible  in  the  administration 
of  justice. 

On  the  11th  of  September,  by  a preconcerted  movement,  the 
insurrection  broke  out  simultaneously  at  Alajuela,  Heredia,  and 
San  Jose.  On  that  day  Morazan  was  entertaining  a number 
of  friends  at  the  government  house  in  the  capital  when  the  dis- 
turbance commenced  in  the  streets.  Don  Juan  Mora  (afterward 
president  of  the  state)  was  among  the  guests,  and,  exercising  a 
controlling  influence  among  the  people,  he  proceeded  to  inquire 
the  cause  of  the  outbreak,  while  Morazan  hastened  to  organize 


486 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


his  small  forces  at  the  cuartel.  Most  of  his  troops,  however, 
were  absent,  a circumstance  seized  upon  by  his  enemies,  the 
priests,  as  peculiarly  auspicious.  He  found  the  Plaza  filled 
with  the  excited  populace,  and  the  troops  already  drawn  up 
and  preparing  to  defend  themselves.  Mora,  true  to  his  servile 
instincts,  never  returned. 

The  scanty  force  of  the  “ Morazanistos ” at  this  time  were 
scattered  about  the  town,  but  soon  fought  their  way  to  the  cuar- 
tel, where  the  ground  was  fiercely  contested  until  night,  when 
Morazan  retained  possession  of  a small  portion  of  the  square. 
The  firing  now  ceased  on  the  part  of  the  besieged,  but  was  con- 
tinued through  the  night  by  the  enemy.  On  the  following 
morning,  General  Cabanas,  with  but  twenty-five  men,  drove  the 
assailants  as  far  as  the  powder  magazine,  in  the  direction  of  the 
cemetery ; but  the  enemy  being  re-enforced,  and  now  amounting 
to  above  two  thousand  men,  Cabanas  in  turn  was  forced  to  re- 
treat. During  the  next  day  the  contest  around  the  cuartel  was 
continued  with  obstinate  fury,  neither  side  yielding  a foot  of 
ground,  and  each  apparently  determined  to  fight  to  the  death ; 
the  assailants  urged  on  and  encouraged  by  the  priests,  and  the 
soldiers  of  Morazan  encouraged  by  his  personal  courage  and  the 
prestige  of  his  name. 

But  on  the  second  day  the  enemy  gained  possession  of  the 
church  commanding  the  cuartel,  and,  being  joined  by  the  “ Ala- 
juelas”  and  above  twelve  hundred  recryiits,  resistance  against 
such  odds  seemed  impossible.  Morazan,  seeing  his  little  force 
constantly  falling  around  him,  retired  to  the  cuartel,  surrounded 
by  upward  of  three  thousand  of  the  enemy,  afterward  increased 
to  five  thousand ; but  such  was  the  known  courage  and  determ- 
ination of  the  besieged,  that  none  were  found  prepared  to  carry 
the  place  by  assault.  Proposals  were  now  made  for  the  surren- 
der of  Generals  Villasenor  and  Cordero,  and  the  remainder  of 
the  party  to  leave  Costa  Rica  unmolested.  The  generous  Mo- 
razan refused  to  accept  such  conditions,  and  the  fighting  was 
continued  through  the  third  day. 

At  two  o’clock  General  Cabanas,  who,  with  a few  men,  had 
volunteered  to  protect  the  house  where  the  family  of  Morazan 
were  concealed,  was  driven  back.  The  ladies  were  immediate- 
ly dragged  forth  and  conveyed  to  general  quarters,  where  a 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


487 


French  physician,  Dr.  Castello,  proposed  to  deliver  them  over 
to  the  mob ; and,  but  for  the  manly  interference  of  the  Padre 
Madriz,  this  infamy  would  have  been  accomplished.  On  this 
day  Morazan  was  severely  wounded,  but  to  the  last  it  was  ob- 
served that  he  preserved  that  placid  serenity  which  his  friends 
had  ever  loved  to  observe.  New  propositions  were  made  for  the 
surrender  of  Villasenor  and  Cordero ; and  another,  that  “ the 
besieged  should  march,  with  Morazan  at  their  head,  to  the  head- 
quarters of  the  enemy,  where  their  fate  should  be  decided  in  half 
an  hour ! ” These  and  other  inhuman  propositions  were  prompt- 
ly rejected. 

As  night  approached,  the  situation  of  the  besieged  became 
desperate ; the  handful  of  troops  in  possession  of  the  cuartel, 
exhausted  with  eighty  hours’  constant  fighting,  were  unable  to 
protract  the  combat.  Ammunition  began  to  fail,  and  the  dis- 
tances for  firing  were  limited  by  rule.  Morazan  was  now  suf- 
fering with  a delirium  of  fever  produced  by  his  wound.  At  mid- 
night a consultation  was  held  by  the  principal  officers,  at  which 
it  was  decided  to  cut  their  way  that  night  through  the  enemy’s 
lines.  At  this  time  Morazan  was  sleeping  in  his  cloak,  and  the 
hour  was  deferred  until  three  o’clock  A.M.,  when  the  general, 
awaking  the  whole  force,  issued  from  the  cuartel,  the  scene  il- 
lumined by  a full  moon,  and  the  little  party  offering  a fair  mark 
for  their  assailants. 

The  column  took  the  Cartago  road,  losing  nearly  one  thud 
of  their  number  in  this  movement.  Five  squares  from  the  cuar- 
tel they  encountered  a hide  rope  stretched  across  the  street,  and 
a detachment  of  the  enemy  posted  behind  a barricade  which  had 
been  erected  near  by.  This  the  “ Cartagos”  were  ordered  to 
charge,  but  fell  back  in  disorder  upon  a small  band  of  Texiguat 
Indians  who  had  joined  Morazan  on  his  arrival  from  South 
America.  These  followed  Morazan,  who  spurred  upon  the  en- 
emy, and  with  an  English  riding-whip  struck  one  of  the  enemy 
across  the  face,  when  the  Indians  charged,  and  the  whole  block- 
ading party  fled,  leaving  the  street  clear.  They  then  continued 
their  march  out  of  the  town,  encountering  and  dispersing  sev- 
eral parties  who  had  been  dispatched  to  cut  off  their  retreat. 
On  the  outskirts  of  the  town  the  natives  of  Cartago  abandoned 
Morazan,  leaving  him  but  sixty  men. 


488 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


The  general  then  held  a hurried  conversation  with  Villase- 
nor, when  it  was  agreed  that  they  should  proceed  to  Cartago  to 
inform  their  supposed  friends  and  partisans,  Mayorga,  the  com- 
mander of  that  place,  and  Espinac,  a Spanish  merchant,  of  what 
had  occurred.  This  movement  is  represented  to  have  been  act- 
uated by  pure  friendship  for  these  men,  to  allow  them  to  make 
their  escape  with  the  retreating  forces,  and  is  cited  as  illustra- 
ting the  entirely  unselfish  and  noble  disposition  of  Morazan.  It 
was  by  such  deeds,  worthy  a wider  fame  and  more  extended 
field  for  their  enactment,  that  this  man  had  won  the  undying- 
affection  of  his  officers.  Morazan  and  Villasenor  accordingly 
rode  in  advance  of  the  troops  toward  Cartago,  leaving  General 
Cabanas  in  command,  with  orders  to  pursue  his  march  with  all 
speed  to  that  place,  where  they  would  await  him. 

Arriving  at  Cartago,  Morazan  rode  directly  to  the  house  of 
the  commandante,  who  held  his  office  under  him,  and  had  in 
various  ways  been  the  recipient  of  his  generosity,  and,  alighting, 
was  welcomed  with  apparent  cordiality  by  Mayorga.  Morazan. 
knowing  him  to  be  deeply  compromised  in  his  cause,  gave  him 
timely  warning  of  his  danger,  and  a full  relation  of  his  own  re- 
verse of  fortune.  With  a perfidy  singularly  Spanish-Ameri- 
can,  this  wretch  listened  attentively  to  the  narration  of  his  con- 
fiding visitor,  and,  judging  from  the  facts  that  the  cause  of  his 
master  was  hopeless,  secretly  ordered  out  a detachment  of  sol- 
diers, who  arrested  Morazan  a few  steps  from  his  door ! This 
deed  was  partly  at  the  instigation  of  Espinac,  who  had  also 
learned  the  events  transpiring  at  San  Jose,  both  traitors  lately 
professing  the  warmest  friendship  for  the  general,  but  now  trust- 
ing to  retrieve  themselves  with  the  revolutionary  party.  Espi- 
nac, however,  pledged  his  word  that  the  life  of  Morazan  should 
be  saved,  and  that  his  influence  should  be  used  to  give  him  safe- 
conduct  from  the  state.  General  Villasenor  was  arrested  at  the 
same  moment.  The  prisoners  were  kept  closely  confined,  and 
allowed  no  communication  with  persons  outside. 

In  the  mean  time,  to  perfect  this  tangle  of  treachery,  a man 
named  Orramuno  was  sent  to  meet  Cabanas,  requesting  him  not 
to  pass  with  his  troops  through  Cartago,  urging  in  explanation, 
among  other  reasons,  the  danger  of  a collision  between  his  sol- 
diers and  the  citizens.  Cabanas,  still  ignorant  of  the  treachery 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


489 


dealt  upon  Morazan,  replied  that  his  orders  were  to  proceed  to 
Cartago,  and  continued  to  move  in  that  direction.  But,  on  be- 
ing told  by  Orramuno  that  Morazan  and  Villasenor  had  already 
left  Cartago,  on  the  road  toward  Matina,  a small  port  on  the 
Atlantic  coast,  Cabanas  sent  General  Serravia  in  advance  to 
Cartago,  to  ascertain  the  truth  of  Orramuno’s  report. 

On  arriving  at  Cartago,  the  whole  plot  was  disclosed,  and 
Serravia,  instead  of  returning  to  Cabanas,  who  might  have 
planned  a rescue,  enthusiastically  swore  to  die  with  his  beloved 
general  rather  than  enjoy  liberty  without  him,  and,  making  his 
way  to  the  house  of  Mayorga,  he  was  seized  and  at  once  im- 
prisoned. 

Another  messenger  was  now  dispatched  to  intercept  Cabanas 
with  a fictitious  message  from  Serravia,  to  the  effect  that  he  had 
ridden  forward  to  overtake  Morazan  on  the  road  to  Matina,  and 
that  the  general  had  desired  the  troops  should  not  be  marched 
through  the  town.  Cabanas  pressed  on  toward  Cartago  with 
an  indefinite  misgiving,  but  not  doubting  the  honor  of  Espinac 
and  Mayorga.  Francisco  Morazan,  a natural  son  of  the  gen- 
eral, rode  on  alone  to  Cartago,  and,  entering  the  town,  was  im- 
prisoned with  Morazan  and  Villasenor. 

Espinac,  who  was  known  to  Cabanas  as  having  enjoyed  the 
full  confidence  of  Morazan,  met  the  troops  some  miles  from  the 
town,  and,  by  repeating  the  words  of  his  messengers,  induced 
Cabanas  to  disband  his  little  force,  which  was  done  on  the  spot. 
He  then  exchanged  his  horse  and  took  a by-road,  with  several 
of  his  friends,  to  join  Morazan,  as  he  supposed,  on  the  road  to 
Matina.  On  reaching  the  point  designated  and  inquiring  for 
the  general,  he  learned  that  he  had  not  passed  there,  and  the  full 
extent  of  the  treachery  flashed  upon  him. 

On  the  following  morning  he  was  surrounded  by  a party  of 
Costa  Ricans,  at  a village  on  the  public  highway,  and  impris- 
oned with  a considerable  number  of  the  captured  troops  from 
San  Salvador. 

During  the  night  of  the  14th  the  prisoners  were  closely  guard- 
ed at  Cartago.  While  being  manacled,  Serravia  was  taken  with 
convulsions  and  died  in  the  presence  of  his  companions.  This 
circumstance  was  seized  upon  by  his  enemies  to  calumniate  his 
memory  with  the  accusation  of  suicide  by  poison.  The  charac- 


490 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ter  of  Serravia  left  no  room  for  such  a suspicion,  and  those  of 
his  friends  who  were  in  Costa  Rica  steadily  deny  the  statement. 
He  was  a young  man  of  rare  talents  and  acquirements,  and  to 
the  hour  of  his  death  a devoted  partisan  of  Morazan,  to  whom, 
while  in  Costa  Rica,  he  had  acted  as  secretary.  It  is  very  pos- 
sible, however,  that,  in  his  despair  at  the  ruin  and  inevitable 
death  of  his  friend,  he  may  have  been  driven  to  self-destruction. 
But  Villasenor,  when  approached  by  the  guard  with  irons,  drew 
a pistol  from  his  breast,  and  was  only  prevented  from  taking  his 
own  life  by  his  weapon  missing  fire.  He  was  gently  disarmed 
by  Morazan,  who  still  displayed  the  courageous  and  dignified 
bearing  ever  distinguishing  him  in  times  of  difficulty.  Villa- 
senor soon  afterward  procured  a knife,  with  which  he  stabbed 
himself  in  the  breast,  the  wound  not  proving  fatal. 

The  captives  now  heard  the  yells  of  the  crowd,  who,  with  the 
news  of  the  capture  of  Morazan,  entered  the  town  with  cries  of 
“ Muerte  a Morazan  /”  but  as  yet  the  prisoners  remained  un- 
molested. Measures  were  taken  to  convey  them  to  San  Jose, 
where  they  arrived  after  a short  march,  the  air  filled  with  the 
shouts  of  the  infuriated  rabble.  Morazan  was  mounted,  but 
Villasenor,  weakened  by  the  loss  of  blood,  was  borne  in  a chair. 
At  the  entrance  of  the  town  Morazan  was  ordered  to  dismount, 
the  better  to  grace  this  triumphal  entry.  He  walked  from  this 
place  to  the  prison,  where  he  arrived  at  three  o’clock  P.M. 

Previous  to  his  arrival,  a mockery  of  consultation  had  been 
held,  at  which  it  was  decreed  by  the  self-constituted  authorities 
that  Morazan  should  die.  The  junta  issuing  this  barbarous  re- 
solve was  composed  of  citizens  of  San  Jose,  as  follows  : Anto- 
nio Pinto,  newly-created  commandante  general ; Luis  Blanco, 
Padre  Blanco,  Domingo  Carranza,  Dr.  Castillo,  of  infamous  mem- 
ory, and  two  Spaniards  named  Benavires  and  Farrufio. 

Morazan  was  briefly  notified  that  he  had  but  three  hours  to 
live.  He  prepared  for  death  with  his  wonted  equanimity,  and 
requested  an  interview  with  his  friend,  Senor  Montealegre,  which 
was  granted ; and  having  imparted  to  him  his  last  message  to 
his  wife,  and  hastily  making  his  will,  he  was  hurried  with  Villa- 
senor to  the  place  of  execution.*  On  arriving  at  the  Plaza,  he 
turned  cheerfully  toward  Senor  Montealegre,  and,  remembering 

* A copy  of  this  document,  in  my  possession,  will  be  read  with  interest  as  the 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


491 


that  it  was  the  anniversary  of  Central  American  Independence, 
he  said,  “ My  friend,  this  is  a glorious  day  on  which  to  take 

dying  sentiments  of  Morazan,  and  throwing  some  light  upon  his  character  and 
the  circumstances  of  his  death  : 

[translation.] 

“ San  JosS,  September  15th,  1S42. 

“ On  the  anniversary  of  the  Independence,  the  integrity  of  which  I have  en- 
deavored to  maintain.  In  the  name  of  the  Author  of  the  Universe,  in  whose 
religion  I die : 

“ I declare  that  I am  married,  and  that  I leave  my  wife  my  sole  testamentary 
executrix. 

“ I declare  that  I have  expended  all  my  wife’s  and  my  own  property  in  giving 
a government  of  laws  to  Costa  Rica,  and  also  $18,000  (dies  y ocho  mil  pesos) 
and  its  interest,  for  which  I am  indebted  to  General  Pedro  Bermudes. 

“I  declare  that  my  death  is  unmerited;  that  I have  committed  no  fault  but 
that  of  giving  liberty  to  Costa  Rica  and  procuring  the  peace  of  the  republic. 
My  death  is  consequently  an  assassination,  the  more  aggravated  that  I have  been 
neither  judged  nor  heard.  I have  but  executed  the  orders  of  the  Assembly  in 
consonance  with  my  own  desires  to  reorganize  the  republic. 

“I  protest  that  I have  made  the  collection  of  troops  that  to-day  occasions  my 
death  solely  to  defend  the  Department  of  Guanacaste,  belonging  to  this  state, 
and  which,  according  to  communications  from  the  commander  of  said  depart- 
ment, was  menaced  by  the  forces  of  Nicaragua ; that  if  afterward  I have  used  a 
portion  of  these  soldiers  in  the  cause  of  the  republic,  I have  taken  simply  those 
who  voluntarily  desired  to  march,  for  such  enterprises  are  never  undertaken 
with  forced  troops. 

“ I declare  that  to  assassination  is  added  the  forfeiture  of  the  word  of  Espinac, 
of  Cartago,  that  my  life  should  be  saved. 

“ I declare  that  my  love  for  Central  America  follows  me  to  the  tomb.  I call 
upon  the  youth  of  this  country  (which  Heave  with  sorrow,  threatened  with  an- 
archy) to  imitate  my  example,  and  die  with  firmness  rather  than  abandon  it  to 
its  present  confusion. 

“ I declare  that  I have  no  enemies,  nor  do  I carry  to  the  sepulchre  the  least 
rancor  against  my  assassins,  w hom  I pardon  and  desire  all  possible  blessings  for. 

“ I die  with  the  reflection  of  having  caused  some  ills  to  my  country,  although 
with  the  sole  desire  of  seeking  its  well-being ; and  this  feeling  is  rendered  the 
more  poignant  from  having  rectified  my  opinions  in  the  revolutionary  career,  and, 
anticipating  the  accomplishment  of  the  benefits  I had  in  view  for  the  country 
by  which  to  expiate  those  faults,  I am  unjustly  deprived  of  my  life. 

“The  disorder  in  which  I write,  being  allowed  but  three  hours  in  which  to 
prepare  for  death,*  had  caused  me  to  forget  that  I have  accounts  with  the  house 
of  Mr.  M.  Bennett,  resulting  from  the  mahogany  cuttings  on  the  northern  coast, 
which  I believe  may  amount  to  ten  or  twelve  thousand  dollars,  which  belong  to 
my  wife  as  compensation  for  the  losses  which  she  has  sustained  in  her  own  prop- 
erty at  the  hacienda  of  J upuara ; and  I have  also  other  debts  known  to  Senor 
Losano. 

“ I desire  that  this  testament  may  be  printed  wherever  the  results  of  my  death 
and  public  negotiations  may  require.  Francisco  Morazan.” 

* A term  afterward  shortened  to  one  hour. 


492 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


leave  of  one’s  country ! ” Pie  presented  his  snuff-box  to  Mon- 
tealegre,  and  was  placed  with  Villasenor  in  a kneeling  posture. 
His  request  not  to  aim  at  his  face  was  interrupted  by  a volley, 
at  which  both  the  victims  fell.  Villasenor  died  without  a strug- 
gle, but  Morazan  raised  himself  slightly  from  the  ground,  and 
his  hat  falling  from  his  head  as  he  did  so,  revealed  his  fine 
face  convulsed  in  agony.  He  fell  dead  immediately  after,  and 
the  monster  Carranza,  placing  the  hat  upon  his  own  head,  strut- 
ted with  insulting  mien  over  the  prostrate  body. 

Such  was  the  death  of  Central  America’s  best  and  greatest 
man ; with  him  expired  its  last  hope  of  nationality.  He  was 
shot  at  4.30  P.M.,  on  the  15th  of  September,  1842,  the  twenty- 
first  anniversary  of  the  Independence.  In  the  small  but  spark- 
ling galaxy  of  distinguished  men  of  those  states,  few  have  equal- 
ed Morazan  in  true  patriotism  and  honesty  of  purpose,  and  none 
in  genius  or  the  versatile  talents  necessary  for  the  times  and 
the  country.  In  stature  tall  and  commanding,  with  a winning 
address,  and  of  a florid,  genial  disposition,  he  seemed  peculiarly 
fitted  to  calm  the  discordant  elements  distracting  Central  Amer- 
ica. Though  rashly  brave  in  the  field,  he  was  often  censured 
by  his  partisans  for  injudicious  clemency  to  the  defeated.  It  is 
recorded  of  him  that,  amid  the  ruthless  butcheries  which  have 
made  the  Central  American  wars  a by-word  for  bloody  public 
executions,  he  signed  the  death-warrant  but  twice  while  in  pow- 
er. The  word  “ executed”  is  studiously  avoided  by  the  Liberal 
party  to  this  day  when  speaking  of  his  death,  which  is  always 
referred  to  under  the  harsher  and  more  appropriate  one  of  “ mur- 
der.” His  untimely  fate  may  be  traced  to  the  intrigues  of  de- 
signing persons,  who  had  long  feared  his  powerful  influence  in 
thwarting  their  schemes  for  self-aggrandizement  at  the  expense 
of  their  country.  Morazan  sacrificed  his  life  in  his  persevering 
attempts  to  restore  the  republic.  He  prophesied  the  speedy  de- 
struction of  the  country  under  the  system  of  petty  sovereignties, 
and  the  subsequent  history  of  Central  America  has  verified  his 
predictions.* 

* His  hatred  of  the  Monarchists  and  Guatemalan  aristocracy,  and  inveterate 
determination  to  preserve  the  integrity  of  the  Confederation,  is  evinced  in  his 
spirited  address  printed  in  1839,  a single  passage  of  which  is  sufficient  to  illus- 
trate the  energetic  style  of  the  author.  “ Ni  las  perlas  del  Golfo  de  Nicoya,  ni 
el  oro  del  Rio  Guayape  volveran  a adornar  la  corona  del  Marquez  de  Aicemna  ; 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


493 


In  his  eventful  career,  instances  of  rash  judgment  may  he 
pointed  out,  but  they  were  errors  of  an  over-ardent  and  inexpe- 
rienced man,  giving  promise  of  a maturity  of  lasting  benefit  to 
liis  country.  Had  he  selected  San  Salvador,  where  he  first  land- 
ed on  his  return  from  South  America,  for  the  theatre  of  his  pat- 
riotic exertions,  or  entered  his  native  state  of  Honduras,  though 
nearer  to  the  centre  of  Servile  power,  the  result  might  have  been 
happier  for  himself  and  the  Liberal  cause.  But  under  the  reign 
of  terror  inaugurated  by  Carrera  and  his  agents,  it  is  doubtful 
if  any  portion  of  Central  America  was  fully  prepared  for  revo- 
lution. His  flattering  reception  in  Costa  Rica  and  the  speedy 
change  in  popular  prejudice  sufficiently  illustrate  the  fickleness 
of  a people  who  were  as  incapable  of  appreciating  the  greatness 
of  Morazan  as  they  were  unworthy  to  enjoy  the  blessings  of 
political  liberty.  His  remains  were  conveyed  to  San  Salvador 
some  years  afterward  with  a guard  of  Costa  Rican  citizens,  and 
interred  at  Sonsonate,  to  await  the  completion  of  a tomb  and 
monument  at  the  city  of  San  Salvador.  The  work  was  de- 
stroyed with  the  city  in  the  terrible  earthquake  of  April,  1854, 
after  which  they  were  finally  deposited,  with  religious  ceremo- 
nies, in  the  church  at  Mejicana,  near  Cojutepeque.  The  traitor 
Espinac  has  never  since  dared  to  visit  San  Salvador  for  fear  of 
popular  vengeance,  and  even  in  Costa  Rica  lives  in  dread  of  the 
retribution  sworn  by  Morazan’s  relatives. 

Cabanas  and  his  friends  were  soon  after  placed  on  board  the 
Coquimbo,  the  vessel  which  had  brought  Morazan  from  South 
America,  with  the  understanding  that  they  should  sail  at  once 
for  San  Salvador.  They  remained,  however,  several  weeks  at 
Calderas,  blockading  the  port,  and  making  occasional  excursions 
on  shore  in  quest  of  provisions.  These  visits,  which  partook 
of  the  character  of  predatory  excursions,  gained  the  party  the 
name  of  uIos  Coquimbos .”  On  arriving  at  San  Salvador,  they 
landed  despite  the  edict  of  the  government,  and  were  cordially 
received  by  Malespin,  who,  though  the  most  active  agent  in  the 
overthrow  of  Morazan’s  government  in  1840,  had  availed  him- 
self of  his  elevation  to  the  position  of  commander-in-chief  to  side 
with  the  Liberals. 

y si  algun  dia  apariciese  este  simbolo  horroroso  de  la  Aristocrasia,  el  sera  el 
bianco  del  soldado  Republicano!” 


494 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  1843-57. 

The  Central  American  States  as  distinct  Sovereignties.—- Siege  of  Leon. — In- 
surrections.— Attempts  to  reconstruct  the  Republic. — Trinidad  Cabanas  Presi- 
dent of  Honduras. — The  War  with  Guatemala. — -Nicaragua  as  a Republic. — 
The  Castellan  and  Chamorro  War. — Enlistment  of  Americans. — Decline  of 
the  Administration  of  Cabanas. — Concluding  Remarks. 

At  the  close  of  1843  a temporary  calm  settled  upon  the 
states,  each  of  which,  preserving  a nominal  independence,  main- 
tained its  own  government  under  the  direction  of  the  most  prom- 
inent local  chieftains.  After  the  death  of  Morazan,  Costa  Rica 
convoked  a new  Congress,  and  soon  returned  to  the  condition 
of  quiet  and  comparative  prosperity  from  which  it  had  been 
aroused  by  his  return.  San  Salvador  remained  under  the  gov- 
ernment of  Malespin,  who  from  a highway  robber  had  risen  to 
the  supreme  power,  to  which,  he  had  been  appointed  by  Car- 
rera, but  afterward  declaring  against  the  Guatemalan  author- 
ity. The  reins  of  government  in  Honduras  were  held  by  Gen- 
eral Francisco  Ferrera,  who,  having  been  elected  governor  in 
1841,  had  annually  succeeded  to  that  position  until  elected  to 
the  presidency,  an  office  which  he  appears  to  have  created  for 
his  own  purposes.  Nicaragua,  in  1841,  had  elected  as  supreme 
dictator  Don  Pablo  Buitrago.  He  was  afterward  deposed  by 
General  F onseca,  who  changed  the  style  of  the  supreme  executive 
to  Grand  Marechal.  A more  disgusting  and  brutal  tyrant  never 
assumed  power  in  Nicaragua.  Guatemala,  now  held  in  the  iron 
grasp  of  Carrera,  made  no  attempt  upon  the  tranquillity  of  the 
other  states  other  than  a descent  upon  San  Salvador  in  1844, 
headed  by  Jose  Manuel  Arce,  formerly  President  of  the  repub- 
lic. This  was  ostensibly  in  revenge  for  the  countenance  given 
by  Malespin  to  the  Morizanistos  in  1842.  The  invaders,  how- 
ever, were  routed  and  driven  from  the  state. 

Malespin  retaliated  for  this  outrage  by  invading  Guatemala 
shortly  after  with  two  thousand  troops,  and,  had  he  followed  up 
this  advantage,  he  might  possibly  have  made  a successful  stand 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


495 


against  the  Servile  power.  He  was  accompanied  in  this  expe- 
dition by  General  Cabanas,  a tried  and  courageous  officer  under 
Morazan,  and  whose  character  for  humanity  and  patriotism  had 
become  widely  known  in  Central  America.  On  the  march  the 
troops  declared  for  this  general,  who  refused  to  accept  a com- 
mand to  the  injury  of  his  benefactor.  But  Malespin,  enraged 
at  this  preference,  commanded  a retreat,  and  disbanded  the  troops 
the  most  favorable  to  Cabanas. 

Carrera  meantime  collected  an  army  of  five  thousand  men, 
with  which,  after  this  retreat,  he  invaded  San  Salvador,  but, 
fearful  of  his  own  power  in  Guatemala,  he  contented  himself 
with  taking  several  villages,  and  returned  without  any  import- 
ant engagement  between  the  two  armies  having  taken  place. 
The  war  had  only  the  effect  of  impoverishing  both  countries. 
During  these  campaigns,  the  forces  of  Nicaragua,  which  had  been 
raised  with  the  pretended  object  of  assisting  San  Salvador,  pen- 
etrated into  Honduras  with  the  design  of  overthrowing  the  gov- 
ernment of  Herrera.  They  were  met  by  the  troops  of  Honduras 
at  Choluteca,  under  the  command  of  Santos  Guardiola,  and  ut- 
terly routed.  The  energy  and  ferocity  of  this  man  became 
thenceforth  a proverb  throughout  the  country. 

Peace  having  been  declared  between  Guatemala  and  San  Sal- 
vador in  1844,  Malespin  determined  to  revenge  himself  upon 
Cabanas  for  the  preference  shown  that  leader  by  the  troops  of 
San  Salvador.  Forewarned  of  this  movement,  Cabanas  and  his 
friends  escaped  to  San  Miguel,  and,  uniting  with  the  proscribed 
Governor  Barias,  proceeded  to  Nicaragua,  and  succeeded  in  en- 
listing Fonseca  in  their  cause.  Information  of  these  warlike 
preparations  was  conveyed  to  Malespin,  who  speedily  concluded 
a treaty  with  Honduras  ; Ferrera,  who  was  still  at  the  head  of 
the  government,  readily  forming  an  alliance  against  Nicaragua, 
whose  forces  had  made  so  unprovoked  an  attack  upon  him  in 
the  preceding  August. 

This  expedition  was  mainly  planned  by  Cabanas,  whose  views 
were  not  bounded  by  the  immediate  issue  with  Malespin,  though 
that  seemed  its  ostensible  object.  From  his  earliest  connection 
with  military  affairs  he  had  been  an  uncompromising  supporter 
of  the  Federal  Republic,  and,  nobly  seconding  Morazan  in  this 
cause,  he  had  succeeded  him  at  his  death  as  the  acknowledged 


496 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


leader  of  the  Liberal  or  Republican,  party.  He  now  looked  for- 
ward with  confidence  to  the  overthrow  of  Malespin  and  Ferre- 
ra,  and  from  that  point  an  invasion  of  Guatemala  and  the  re- 
establishment of  the  Republic. 

In  October  he  invaded  Honduras  with  about  two  thousand 
troops,  but  was  met  by  Guardiola  on  the  1st  of  November,  and 
repulsed  with  considerable  loss.  A few  days  afterward  he  de- 
feated and  dispersed  a superior  force  of  the  enemy,  but,  owing 
to  an  entire  want  of  discipline  among  his  own  troops,  he  was 
forced  to  retreat  into  Nicaragua,  where  he  was  followed  by  the 
combined  forces  of  Honduras  and  San  Salvador  under  Guardi- 
ola and  Malespin.  The  invading  army,  amounting  to  three 
thousand,  laid  siege  to  Leon,  now  the  last  stronghold  of  the 
Liberal  party  and  of  the  Morazanistos.  The  ancient  rivalry  ex- 
isting between  Granada  and  Leon  induced  the  inhabitants  of 
the  former  city,  with  those  of  Managua  and  Rivas,  to  espouse 
the  cause  of  the  invaders. 

A force  of  three  thousand  was  raised  by  these  cities,  and  dis- 
patched to  the  assistance  of  the  besieging  party,  thus  augment- 
ed to  five  thousand  men.  These  auxiliaries  arrived  toward  the 
close  of  the  year,  and  Leon  was  invested  on  all  sides,  but  de- 
fended with  the  most  desperate  valor.  Scenes  of  debauchery 
and  terror  were  enacted  in  the  city  too  frightful  and  disgusting 
to  be  perpetuated  in  history.  Language  fails  to  describe  the 
horrors  enacted  even  by  the  besieged  themselves,  who,  driven  to 
extreme  phrensy  by  their  sufferings,  inaugurated  a reign  of  mur- 
der and  rapine  in  which  neither  age  nor  sex  was  spared.  The 
previous  history  of  the  country,  revolting  as  some  of  its  episodes 
had  been,  presents  no  equal  to  the  scene.  Cabanas,  Barias,  and 
their  friends,  shrinking  in  horror  from  an  alliance  with  such  mon- 
sters, deserted  the  city  in  January,  1845,  and  left  the  inhabit- 
ants to  their  fate. 

On  the  following  day  the  city  was  carried  by  assault,  and 
given  to  butchery  and  plunder  by  the  savage  soldiery.  The 
churches  afforded  no  protection  to  the  crowds  of  wretched  fugi- 
tives, and  these  edifices  were  literally  filled  with  mangled  bodies 
of  women  and  children,  and  covered  with  blood.  Every  dwell- 
ing was  plundered  and  completely  gutted  excepting  that  of  a 
British  subject,  Mr.  Manning,  in  whose  house  the  Grand  Mare- 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


497 


chal  lay  hidden  for  two  days,  but  in  an  imprudent  attempt  to 
escape  was  taken  by  Malespin’s  troops  and  immediately  put  to 
death.  An  attempt  was  made  by  the  victors  to  burn  and  to 
raze  the  city  to  the  ground,  which  was  only  prevented  by  the 
solid  and  detached  nature  of  the  buildings  ; but  the  termination 
of  this  carousal  of  blood  left  Leon  a picture  of  ruin  and  desola- 
tion. Humanity  sickens  at  the  bare  recital  of  such  atrocities, 
the  results  of  civil  war  almost  without  political  aim,  and  with  no 
other  incentive  than  the  love  of  plunder,  revenge,  and  the  grati- 
fication of  the  basest  passions. 

The  republican  freeman  of  the  North  gazes  with  astonishment 
on  a people  after  a quarter  of  a century  of  experimental  self- 
government,  commenced  under  the  most  favorable  auspices,  and 
with  illustrious  examples  for  guides,  relapsing  into  a condition 
not  excelled  in  detail  of  savagery  by  the  most  bestial  natives  of 
Africa.  History  scarcely  affords  a parallel  to  the  picture  pre- 
sented by  Central  America  at  this  epoch ; every  grade  of  rela- 
tionship arrayed  in  frantic  hostility — father  against  son,  brother 
against  brother.  Justice  and  humanity  seemed  swallowed  up 
in  a sickening  appetite  for  violation,  murder,  and  plunder.  An- 
archy, in  its  most  terrible  and  revolting  form,  reigned  in  the  land. 

Nor  can  these  atrocities  be  laid  to  the  charge  of  any  particu- 
lar faction,  or  to  the  ferocious  commanders  who  directed  them. 
The  people  themselves,  irrespective  of  politics  or  party,  are  an- 
swerable. Neither  brutal  military  leaders  nor  the  acerbity  of 
party  warfare  could  alone  excite  enormities  such  as  those  dis- 
gracing the  history  of  Central  America,  events  impossible  of 
occurrence  except  with  the  groundwork  of  a debased  and  bar- 
barous people. 

Cabanas  and  Barias,  after  escaping  from  Leon,  arrived  in  San 
Salvador,  and,  collecting  an  army  of  a thousand  men  in  their 
march,  reached  San  Salvador  in  time  to  head  an  insurrection 
already  broken  out  against  the  authority  of  Malespin,  most  of 
whose  adherents  saved  themselves  by  flight.  Guzman  was 
placed  in  the  Presidency  in  January,  1845. 

The  receipt  of  this  intelligence  in  Nicaragua  caused  the  troops 
of  San  Salvador  to  desert  Malespin,  immediately  following  which 
Guardiola,  with  his  troops,  withdrew  into  Honduras,  accompa- 

hoped  to  recover  possession  of  San 
II 


nied  by  Malespin,  who  still 


498 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Salvador.  On  the  2d  of  March  Guardiola  entered  the  State  of 
San  Salvador,  and  was  encountered  by  Cabanas  at  Quelepa, 
between  San  Miguel  and  San  Salvador.  Although  possessed 
of  an  inferior  force,  Guardiola  gained  the  victory,  and  pressed 
on  toward  San  Vicente,  where  another  engagement  occurred,  in 
which  both  parties  claimed  the  victory.  But  Cabanas  having- 
soon  after  increased  his  army  to  two  thousand  men,  Guardiola 
was  forced  to  retreat,  which  he  effected  in  an  able  manner, 
eluding  pursuit  and  plundering  the  towns  on  his  road.  A pe- 
riod of  negotiations  ensued,  which  only  resulted  in  the  forces 
of  San  Salvador,  under  the  military  command  of  Cabanas,  and 
those  of  Honduras,  where  Malespin  had  taken  refuge,  preparing 
anew  for  hostilities.  Early  in  May  Cabanas  invaded  Hondu- 
ras, and  took  possession  of  Comayagua  on  the  8th  of  June.  He 
was  forced  to  abandon  the  city  a few  days  afterward,  owing 
to  a refusal  of  the  Provisional  President,  Guzman,  to  supply 
him  with  a tithe  of  the  necessary  funds  for  the  support  of  his 
troops.  Repeated  applications  from  Cabanas  for  supplies  were 
replied  to  with  recommendations  from  the  government  of  San 
Salvador  to  feed  his  men  by  plundering  the  people,  after  the 
customary  Central  American  plan,  which  Cabanas  steadily  re- 
fused to  do.  His  men  deserted  in  great  numbers,  though  the 
inhabitants,  pleased  and  astonished  at  his  moderation,  furnished 
him  with  occasional  supplies.  But  the  near  approach  of  Guar- 
diola left  him  no  alternative  but  retreat,  afterward  hastened  into 
a flight,  with  a scanty  remnant  of  his  army. 

On  reaching  San  Miguel,  Cabanas  was  not  long  in  ascertain- 
ing that  Guzman  was  secretly  conspiring  against  him,  and  had 
purposely  refused  the  supplies  to  his  army  with  the  view  of 
raining  him.  Here  he  attempted  in  vain  to  collect  his  scattered 
forces  to  oppose  the  entrance  of  Guardiola,  who  was  now  press- 
ing toward  the  city,  which  he  entered  and  took  possession  of  on 
the  22d  of  July,  Cabanas  evacuating  it  on  the  previous  day. 
The  brutal  excesses  of  Guardiola  had  inspired  the  inhabitants 
with  such  terror  that  they  abandoned  the  city  before  his  arrival, 
and  San  Miguel  was  completely  sacked  by  his  troops.  A plan 
formed  for  the  capture  of  San  Salvador,  in  conjunction  with 
Honduras,  was  not  acted  upon,  owing  to  the  inability  of  that 
state  to  raise  the  requisite  funds  and  troops. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


499 


Cabanas  meanwhile  had  resigned  his  command  in  disgust,  and 
Guzman,  the  Provisional  President,  being  known  as  a coward, 
no  one  was  found  to  assume  the  military  leadership.  Ferrera 
was  excommunicated  by  the  Bishop  of  San  Salvador,  as  was 
also  Malespin.  This,  however,  had  little  effect  in  staying  the 
disturbances ; the  Coquimbos,  as  the  old  partisans  of  Morazan 
continued  to  be  called,  the  friends  of  the  bishop,  and  those  of 
President  Guzman,  forming  three  distinct  parties  in  San  Salva- 
dor, who  consumed  the  time  in  fruitless  disputes,  while  Guar- 
diola  and  his  troops  ravaged  the  adjacent  country.  The  nego- 
tiations for  peace  between  the  two  states  were  at  times  inter- 
rupted by  military  excursions,  characterized  by  the  instant  butch- 
ery of  all  prisoners,  amounting  in  two  instances  to  over  one  hun- 
dred. Between  the  months  of  October  and  December  sever- 
al bloody  engagements  had  occurred,  and  San  Miguel  had  been 
plundered  a second  time  by  Guardiola.  On  the  20th  of  Decem- 
ber peace  was  concluded  between  San  Salvador  and  Honduras. 

During  1844  Guatemala  was  the  scene  of  two  insurrections, 
both  of  which  were  suppressed.  Since  the  dissolution  of  the 
Representative  Assembly  in  1844,  Carrera  had  exercised  the 
functions  of  President  and  military  commander.  On  the  1st  of 
January,  1845,  he  formally  assumed  the  office.  In  February  of 
this  year  his  authority  was  seriously  menaced  by  an  insurrec- 
tion of  the  remnants  of  the  old  aristocracy  and  the  priesthood, 
who,  since  the  unexpected  assumption  of  power  by  Carrera  in 
1829,  had  nursed  a secret  hostility  to  his  government.  This 
revolt  was  nominally  headed  by  General  Monte  Rosas ; but, 
though  the  cowardly  behavior  of  Carrera  and  the  seizure  of 
nearly  all  the  arms  in  the  state  placed  him  in  a position  to  sus- 
tain himself,  the  timidity  of  those  who  had  at  first  encouraged  the 
insurrection  prevented  its  consummation.  After  holding  pos- 
session of  Guatemala  four  days,  Rosas  was  induced  to  withdraw 
for  the  sum  of  $5000.  On  the  following  day  Sotero  Carrera, 
brother  of  the  President,  pursued  the  insurgents,  and  attacked 
and  killed  a great  number,  who  were  awaiting  Carrera’s  arrival 
to  lay  down  their  arms.  On  the  breaking  out  of  this  revolt,  Car- 
rera fled  affrighted  to  a distant  hacienda,  whence  he  only  return- 
ed on  its  suppression.  He  inaugurated  his  restoration  to  pow- 
er by  putting  to  death,  without  form  of  trial,  ten  persons  sus- 


500 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


pected  to  have  been  concerned  in  the  insurrection.  A feeble, 
ill-organized  plan  was  laid,  in  July  of  the  same  year,  to  shoot 
Carrera  as  he  was  coming  out  of  the  Cathedral,  but  was  frus- 
trated by  its  early  discovery. 

From  this  time,  all  attempts  to  dislodge  this  leader  were  aban- 
doned. The  consolidation  of  his  power  inclined  him  to  relax 
the  severity  of  his  government.  Don  Joaquin  Duran,  a talent- 
ed and  liberal  man,  was  appointed  to  the  ministry,  and  the  state, 
under  a judicious  and  evenly  administered  rule,  began  to  pro- 
gress in  wealth  and  industry.  The  government,  however,  was  in 
all  respects  that  of  an  absolute  monarchy,  in  which  the  liberty, 
prosperity,  and  lives  of  the  people  were  at  the  entire  disposal  of 
Carrera. 

In  San  Salvador  the  election  of  President  took  place  in  the 
month  of  March,  which  resulted  in  the  choice  of  Don  Eugenio 
Aguilar,  a man  of  unblemished  character  and  known  moderation. 
On  the  following  July  the  Bishop  of  San  Salvador  attempted  an 
insurrection  against  the  new  President,  but,  proving  unsuccess- 
ful, he  was  banished  from  the  state.  During  1845  Honduras 
continued  quiet,  but  in  the  following  year  the  administration  of 
Ferrera  resigned  their  offices,  and  at  an  election,  held  in  July, 
Senor  Gaul  was  chosen  to  the  presidency.  Nicaragua,  after  the 
allied  invasion  of  1844-5,  was  reduced  to  a condition  of  stagna- 
tion and  misery  even  below  the  level  of  the  other  states.  In 
December,  1845,  Sandoval  was  elected  Director,  but  so  power- 
less and  impoverished  was  the  government  that  it  was  unable 
to  enforce  obedience  to  the  laws,  or  to  repel  the  piratical  incur- 
sions from  San  Salvador,  made  into  the  most  populous  sections 
of  the  state.  Costa  Pica  remained  under  the  rule  of  Rafael 
Gallegos  through  1845  up  to  July  of  the  following  year,  when 
this  chief  was  deposed,  and  Jose  Maria  Alfaro  elevated  to  his 
place. 

Few  events  of  importance  occurred  in  1846.  An  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  was  made  to  reconstruct  the  Confederation  of 
States.  The  convention  of  delegates  from  the  various  states 
was  appointed  to  meet  at  Sonsonate,  in  San  Salvador,  on  the 
15th  of  May,  but  on  that  day  the  representatives  only  of  San 
Salvador  and  Costa  Rica  were  present,  those  of  Honduras  and 
Nicaragua  arriving  some  days  later.  The  Guatemalan  depu- 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


501 


ties  did  not  appear  until  the  middle  of  July,  and  one  of  those 
of  Costa  Rica  having  died  meanwhile,  and  the  other  refusing  to 
act  alone,  the  Convention  dispersed  without  the  accomplishment 
of  their  object.  Another  attempt  was  made  in  1847,  by  calling 
a Convention  of  the  States  in  Nacaome,  in  Honduras  ; but  only 
Honduras,  San  Salvador,  and  Nicaragua  being  represented,  these 
deputies  organized  a Federal  republic  consisting  of  those  three 
states.  Being  a loose  and  ill-constructed  arrangement,  this  con- 
federation, known  as  the  “Pact  of  Nacaome,”  did  not  go  into 
effect.  In  1849  these  states  again  appointed  Federal  deputies, 
and  agreed  upon  a plan  of  confederation,  inviting  the  co-opera- 
tion of  Guatemala  and  Costa  Rica.  In  January,  1851,  this  body 
met  in  Chinandega,  Nicaragua,  and  formally  declared  the  “ Na- 
tional Representation  of  Central  America;”  but  this,  like  its 
predecessors,  was  destined  to  but  short  duration. 

The  recollection  of  thirty  years  of  incessant  strife  has  thor- 
oughly imbued  the  people  of  Costa  Rica  with  a dread  of  alli- 
ances of  any  kind  with  the  neighboring  states.  From  1846,  the 
state  has  shown  an  example  to  her  compeers  of  industry  and 
general  progress.  Under  the  liberal  and  benign  government  of 
the  Moras,  its  advancement  has  been  truly  encouraging.  Nu- 
merous arrivals  of  intelligent  bodies  of  Europeans  have  rapidly 
developed  its  resources,  while  the  sudden  growth  of  California 
has  opened  a constant  market  for  its  agricultural  productions. 
It  is  mainly  owing  to  its  remote  position  from  the  body  of  the 
states,  and  to  the  energy  and  example  of  its  foreign  residents, 
that  Costa  Rica  has  surpassed  every  other  part  of  Central  Amer- 
ica in  the  useful  arts. 

In  1848  Senor  Juan  Lindo  was  elected  to  the  Presidency  of 
Honduras  and  Santos  Guardiola  appointed  Secretary  of  State. 
Under  this  administration  the  present  Constitution  was  formed, 
which,  though  an  interval  of  government  under  the  Republican 
Union  of  the  three  states,  as  before  described,  intervened,  has 
continued  to  be  the  standard  political  basis  of  the  state.  Toward 
the  commencement  of  1849  an  attempt  at  insurrection,  on  the 
part  of  Guardiola,  resulted  in  his  expulsion  from  the  state,  being 
replaced  in  office  by  Senor  Jose  Maria  Rugame.  Placing  him- 
self at  the  head  of  a body  of  troops,  Guardiola  assumed  a men- 
acing attitude  toward  the  government.  Prompt  measures  were 


502 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


taken  to  suppress  this  movement,  which  was  finally  accom- 
plished without  bloodshed.  Guardiola,  however,  did  not  regain 
his  political  position  in  Honduras. 

Guatemala  continued  under  the  nominal  presidency  of  Car- 
rera, and  San  Salvador,  with  few  political  changes,  remained  at 
peace  with  the  other  states.  In  1850  the  quadrennial  presi- 
dential election  in  Honduras  occurred,  and  no  candidate  receiv- 
ing an  absolute  majority  of  the  popular  vote,  the  names  of  the 
two  highest  candidates  were  submitted  to  the  Legislature,  as  pro- 
vided in  the  Constitution  of  1848.  The  choice  fell  upon  Gen- 
eral Jose  Trinidad  Cabanas,  whose  character  and  public  services 


JOS&  TRINIDAD  CABANAS. 


have  been  elsewhere  referred  to.  Humane  and  moderate  in  his 
policy,  a distinguished  partisan  of  the  Morazan  school,  and  now 
recognized  as  the  leader  of  the  Liberal  party,  his  election  was 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


503 


celebrated  throughout  the  country  as  a peculiarly  auspicious 
event,  and  the  surest  safeguard  against  the  threatened  encroach- 
ments of  Guatemala,  whose  aggressive  tendencies  were  now 
watched  with  anxiety  and  alarm.* 

The  most  eminent  of  the  few  remaining  public  men  of  the 
state  were  called  to  the  cabinet.  Salutary  decrees  were  issued 
for  the  encouragement  of  agriculture,  commerce,  and  mining  en- 
terprises, and  appropriations  from  the  public  treasury  for  edu- 
cational purposes  were  made  with  greater  liberality  than  had 
been  known  since  the  Independence.  The  tempestuous  era  of 
politics  seemed  to  have  given  place  to  a calm,  from  which  the 
people  augured  a happy  and  prosperous  future.  The  public 
events  of  importance  in  the  years  1850-51  were  confined  to 
some  insurrectionary  attempts  by  Guardiola  and  Juan  Lopez. 
Both  of  these  factious  spirits  had  fled  to  Guatemala,  where  they 
made  constant  efforts  to  organize  a force  sufficient  to  overturn 
the  government  of  Cabanas.  Lopez,  in  an  unsuccessful  expe- 
dition, was  captured  and  imprisoned  in  the  castle  of  Omoa, 
whence  he  shortly  afterward  effected  his  escape  in  company  with 
the  robber  Urmansor. 

That  the  government  of  Guatemala  had  long  entertained  de- 
signs against  the  independence  of  Honduras,  the  avowed  policy 
of  Carrera  and  the  tone  of  the  official  press  sufficiently  prove. 
An  alliance  with  Mexico  would  have  been  assisted  by  a large 
number  of  influential  persons  in  Guatemala.  This  course, 
though  inconsistent  with  the  jealous  rale  of  Carrera,  would  have 
advanced  the  original  object  of  the  wealthy  Guatemalan  fam- 

* The  life  of  Cabanas  would  form  a history  of  active  but  unfortunate  efforts  in 
behalf  of  his  country,  hut  unstained  by  any  act  of  injustice  or  cruelty,  while  his 
humanity  is  attested  by  numerous  interesting  anecdotes.  A brief  biography  of 
him,  given  me  by  a gentleman  of  Guatemala,  states  that  he  was  born  in  Coma- 
vagua  in  October,  1802.  His  father  was  Don  Jose  Maria  Cabaiias,  and  his  mother 
a lady  of  the  Fiallos  family,  of  the  city  of  his  birth.  He  commenced  his  studies 
in  Comayagua,  and  entered  the  university  of  that  city.  The  party  divisions  im- 
mediately following  the  Independence  found  him  an  ardent  supporter  of  the 
Liberal  or  Republican  cause,  in  which  he  enlisted  at  first  as  a common  soldier, 
and  as  such  served  in  the  army  of  San  Salvador,  defending  the  capital  of  that 
state  against  the  Imperialists  under  General  Manuel  Jose  Arce,  in  June,  1822. 
During  his  many  campaigns,  and  throughout  his  whole  military  course,  observes 
his  biographer,  “he has  never  committed  a murder  or  a personal  or  political  ex- 
cess. His  enemies  themselves  point  to  some  errors  of  judgment,  but  to  no  viola- 
tion of  the  principles  of  honor  which  distinguish  the  brave  and  upright  man.” 


504 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ilies,  the  restoration  of  the  titled  nobility,  and  the  revival  of  the 
effete  aristocratic  institutions.  Such  traitorous  plans  were  as- 
cribed to  the  refugees  Guardiola  and  Lopez,  who  openly  advo- 
cated the  dependence  of  the  provinces  upon  a Guatemalan  vice- 
royalty. It  was  against  this  treason  that  Barrundia  would  have 
guarded  in  his  proposed  union  of  the  States.  With  such  views, 
Guatemala,  confident  in  its  strength  and  numerical  superiority, 
availed  itself  of  the  first  pretext  to  commence  hostilities  against 
Honduras. 

Early  in  1852,  numerous  facciosos  had  collected  near  the 
eastern  borders  of  Honduras,  in  the  extreme  Guatemalan  De- 
partment of  Chiquimula.  These  malcontents  were  composed  of 
refugees  from  the  brutality  of  Carrera,  bands  of  marauding  In- 
dians, and  reckless  outcasts  of  every  denomination,  common  to 
many  unfrequented  sections  of  Central  America.  In  one  of 
their  many  expeditions  a number  of  these  had  crossed  into  Hon- 
duras, and  penetrated  to  the  town  of  Copan,  where  they  were  lo- 
cated for  some  months. 

Information  of  this  reaching  the  military  commander  of  that 
district,  General  Zelaya,  he  notified  the  government  at  Coma- 
yagua  of  the  fact,  when  the  disaffected  were  promptly  put  down 
by  the  orders  of  Cabanas,  as  an  evidence  to  Guatemala  that  the 
territory  of  Honduras  could  not  be  made  an  asylum  for  insur- 
rectionists to  carry  on  aggressions  against  the  neighboring 
states.  In  these  proceedings,  in  order  to  guard  against  the  im- 
plication of  an  armed  invasion  of  Guatemala,  and  to  avoid  the 
possibility  of  a misconstruction  of  his  motives,  Cabanas  strictly 
restrained  the  forces  of  Honduras  from  advancing  beyond  the 
frontier,  confining  the  operations  of  the  troops  to  expelling  the 
enemies  of  Guatemala  from  Honduras  territory.  With  such 
efficiency  and  moderation  were  the  military  measures  of  Hon- 
duras characterized,  that  the  official  organ  of  Guatemala  could 
not  refrain  from  paying  a deserved  tribute  to  the  sense  of  jus- 
tice and  rectitude  that  had  animated  them.  Cabanas  shortly 
afterward  disbanded  his  troops,  the  laudable  object  for  which 
they  had  been  organized  having  been  accomplished.  Nothing 
had  occurred  to  this  date  to  interrupt  the  harmonious  relations 
subsisting  between  Guatemala  and  Honduras. 

In  October,  one  of  the  insurrectionary  movements  common  to 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


505 


the  retired  districts  of  Guatemala  broke  out  in  the  Department 
of  Chiquimula.  The  insurgents,  consisting  of  Indians  and  a 
considerable  body  of  half-breeds,  attacked  and  plundered  the 
town  of  Gualan,  and  afterward  robbed  and  murdered  the  in- 
habitants of  a large  hacienda  six  leagues  distant.  Loaded  with 
the  plunder  of  Gualan,  and  having  cruelly  murdered  the  secre- 
tary of  the  department  for  refusing  to  deliver  the  keys  of  the 
treasury,  they  fled  into  Honduras,  closely  pursued  by  General 
Solares,  with  several  hundred  men,  who  succeeded  in  dispersing 
them.  This  result  effected,  the  invaders  continued  their  march 
to  the  town  of  Copan,  in  the  Department  of  Gracias,  where, 
without  provocation,  the  most  brutal  excesses  were  perpetrated 
in  alleged  retaliation  for  an  invasion  of  Guatemalan  territory 
by  General  Zelaya ! Inoffensive  people  were  murdered  in  the 
streets,  crops  destroyed,  houses  pillaged,  and  the  surrounding 
country  desolated  by  the  soldiery. 

These  outrages,  committed  in  time  of  profound  peace,  aroused 
the  indignation  of  Honduras.  Official  remonstrances  were  un- 
heeded,  and  after  numerous  ineffectual  efforts  to  obtain  redress, 
measures  of  retaliation  were  adopted  by  Cabanas.  The  govern- 
ment of  Guatemala,  fully  anticipating  this  movement,  prepared 
to  meet  the  attack.  It  was  evident  that  Carrera,  restrained  a 
while  by  the  past  few  years  of  tranquillity,  still  nursing  the 
hope  of  subjugating  the  adjoining  states,  had  created  this  pre- 
text of  war  to  light  anew  the  torch  of  discord  and  murder 
throughout  Central  America. 

Cabanas,  having  collected  a considerable  force,  marched  to 
the  frontier,  and  after  lengthy  negotiations  succeeded,  in  April, 
1853,  in  forming  a convention  at  Esquipulas,  by  commissioners 
on  the  part  of  both  republics,  by  which  Guatemala  agreed  to  in- 
demnify the  sufferers  by  the  recent  outrages,  and  providing  for 
the  liberation  of  prisoners  and  the  negotiation  of  a treaty  of 
amity  at  the  earliest  period.  The  signing  of  this  treaty  on  the 
part  of  the  Guatemalan  commissioners  was  a virtual  recognition 
of  the  injustice  of  the  invasion  by  Solares  and  his  subsequent 
career  of  plunder.  But  after  months  of  delay,  of  which  Carrera 
availed  himself  to  make  extensive  preparations  for  aggressive 
purposes,  Guatemala,  with  characteristic  perfidy,  suddenly  an- 
nounced her  refusal  to  abide  by  the  terms  of  the  convention ; 


506 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


when  Cabanas,  in  turn,  marched  into  that  state,  having  been 
invested  by  the  Legislature  with  temporary  absolute  power  to 
declare  war  and  raise  the  means  of  prosecuting  it.  He  occupied 
and  held  possession  of  the  Department  of  Chiquimula,  enforc- 
ing the  utmost  moderation  among  his  soldiers,  until  a vastly 
superior  force  obliged  him  to  retreat  into  Honduras,  where  he 
was  followed  by  the  enemy  under  General  Grenados.  In  July 
the  Guatemalan  forces  occupied  Santa  Rosa,  and  after  wantonly 
sacking  the  town,  re-enacting  the  horrors  of  Leon  and  San  Mi- 
guel, retreated  precipitately  out  of  the  country,  as  much  in  an- 
ticipation of  attack  from  the  desperate  inhabitants  as  from  the 
starving  desolation  of  the  district  consequent  upon  the  pillage 
and  destruction  waged  by  his  followers. 

The  rest  of  Central  America,  throughout  the  years  1852-3, 
had  remained  quiet  spectators  of  the  events  transpiring  between 
Honduras  and  Guatemala,  the  issues  being,  for  the  present,  con- 
fined to  those  two  states.  Costa  Rica,  availing  itself  of  the  long 
period  of  quiet  ensuing  on  the  destruction  of  the  Morazan  party, 
had  reached  a degree  of  prosperity  before  unknown  in  its  histo- 
ry. San  Salvador,  though  preserving  her  bitter  hatred  of  Car- 
rera, and  strongly  sympathizing  with  the  Liberal  party  in  Hon- 
duras, refrained  from  active  participation  in  the  strife. 

In  Nicaragua,  since  1849,  the  government  had  passed  respect- 
ively through  the  hands  of  Ramierez  (Supreme  Director),  ox 
Barrundia  (as  President  of  the  National  Representation  of  Cen- 
tral America),  and  of  Pineda  (as  President  of  the  Republic).  The 
death  of  Pineda,  toward  the  close  of  1852,  revived  the  elements 
of  discord  in  Nicaragua,  which,  however,  resulted  in  the  eleva- 
tion of  the  former  Secretary  of  State,  Fruto  Chamorro,  to  the 
provisional  dictatorship  of  the  state,  with  an  administration  con- 
sisting of  Rocha,  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  Corral,  Minister  of 
Wax’,  and  Francisco  Castellon  as  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs. 

The  biennial  election  for  President  having  arrived,  the  two 
principal  candidates  offering  themselves  for  this  office  were  Cha- 
morro, the  imbodiment  of  the  old  Servile  faction  with  its  anti- 
progressive and  exclusive  policy,  and  Castellon,  a man  of  excel- 
lent character,  enlarged  views,  and  committed  to  the  same  line 
of  liberal  policy  with  Cabanas.  He  had  chiefly  distinguished 
himself,  while  Nicaraguan  minister  to  England,  by  his  corre- 


HISTOKICAE  SKETCH. 


507 


spondence  with  Lord  Palmerston  on  the  subject  of  the  Mosquito 
Protectorate,  in  which  he  triumphantly  carried  his  case  (so  far 
as  argument  was  concerned)  against  his  lordship.  The  election 
resulted  in  favor  of  Chamorro,  who  has  been  accused,  and  prob- 
ably with  justice,  of  using  fraud  and  coercive  measures  at  the 
polls. 

The  administration  of  Chamorro  commenced  with  numerous 
oppressive  enactments,  among  which  was  the  suppression  of 
the  Supreme  Court  and  the  virtual  assumption  of  the  supreme 
dictatorial  power.  The  open  advocacy  of  Castellon  of  the  re- 
establishment of  the  republic,  and  the  alleged  discovery  of  let- 
ters from  him  to  certain  disaffected  parties  in  San  Salvador  and 
Honduras,  caused  his  arrest  and  speedy  banishment.  With 
a number  of  partisans  he  took  refuge  in  Honduras,  where  his 
known  liberal  principles  secured  him  a cordial  reception  by  Ca- 
banas. 

The  war  in  Honduras  had  meanwhile  been  prosecuted  with  a 
malignity  on  the  part  of  Guatemala  in  conformity  with  the  bru- 
tal character  of  Carrera.  In  addition  to  unceasing  depredations 
along  the  frontier,  an  attack  was  made,  in  the  summer  of  1853, 
upon  the  town  and  fort  of  Omoa,  which  yielded  in  July  to  the 
Guatemalan  forces  under  Colonel  Zavila,  who  invaded  the  place 
by  sea.  The  castle  surrendered  under  articles  of  capitulation 
that  the  artillery  of  the  place  should  remain  deposited  in  the 
keeping  of  Mr.  Follen,  U.  S.  Consul  at  Omoa,  and  that  the  Gua- 
temalan forces  should  evacuate  the  port  within  three  days,  but 
with  the  express  stipulation  that  none  of  the  artillery  should  be 
removed. 

In  defiance  of  these  agreements,  the  dismantling  of  the  castle 
was  commenced  on  the  day  preceding  the  evacuation,  and  would 
have  been  completed  but  for  the  protest  of  the  U.  S.  Consul. 
Five  long  brass  six-pounders  and  two  ten-inch  mortars  were 
embarked,  and  conveyed  through  the  port  of  Habal  to  Teleman 
on  the  Polochic  River.  An  expedition,  commanded  in  person 
by  Carrera,  and  consisting  of  twelve  hundred  men,  left  Guate- 
mala in  November,  1853,  to  conduct  these  trophies  to  that  city. 
From  Teleman  they  were  dragged,  with  incredible  labor,  over 
mountains  and  across  rivers,  to  Tactic,  a distance  of  twenty-two 
leagues.  The  expedition,  which  was  two  months  on  the  road, 


508 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


lost  nearly  a third  of  its  number  in  this  march,  owing  to  des- 
perate assaults  from  “ faciosos”  and  marauding  tribes  inhabit- 
ing Vera  Paz.  For  five  years  that  department  had  been  deso- 
lated by  hostile  and  unconquerable  Indians,  whose  depredations 
had  been  so  inhumanly  visited  upon  Honduras.  Feeble  efforts 
were  made,  toward  the  close  of  1853,  by  San  Salvador  for  the 
restoration  of  peace  between  the  two  republics,  but  without  suc- 
cess. 

The  position  of  Cabanas,  as  the  principal  remaining  stay  of 
the  Liberal  party  after  the  death  of  Morazan,  did  not  permit 
him  to  remain  an  inactive  spectator  of  the  events  transpiring  in 
Nicaragua,  where  the  Servile  cause,  secretly  aided  by  Guatema- 
lan and  European  agents,  had  slowly  acquired  a dangerous 
prominence.  The  banishment  of  Castellon  and  the  principal 
Liberals  of  Nicaragua  had  been  followed  by  a succession  of  op- 
pressive measures  on  the  part  of  Chamorro  utterly  subversive 
of  the  liberties  of  the  people.  Early  in  1854  Cabanas  furnish- 
ed his  friend  and  partisan  with  a few  men  and  a quantity  of 
arms  and  ammunition,  with  which  Castellon  repaired  to  Tigre 
Island,  whence  the  troops,  under  the  command  of  General  Max- 
imo Jerez,  entered  Nicaragua  in  the  month  of  May  by  the  port 
of  Realejo,  while  Castellon,  passing  the  Playa  Grande  military 
establishment  in  disguise,  joined  the  invaders,  who  were  re- 
ceived with  unanimous  marks  of  favor  by  the  people.  Leon, 
Chinandega,  and  the  adjacent  towns  immediately  declared  for 
Castellon,  who  was  created  Provisional  Director  of  the  State, 
taking  the  oath  of  office  on  the  11th  of  June. 

His  discourse  on  this  occasion  was  moderate  in  expression, 
but  significant  in  substance.  He  advocated  the  widest  toler- 
ance in  all  that  concerns  opinion,  and  maintained  the  doctrine 
that  the  executive  should  always  reflect  fairly  the  popular  will. 
His  liberal  policy,  and  determination  to  reconstruct,  if  possible, 
the  Federal  Republic,  may  be  inferred  from  the  following  ex- 
tract from  this  address : 

“ My  programme  in  all  that  concerns  the  state  interiorly  is 
liberty — liberty  for  each  man  to  enjoy  all  of  his  natural  and  le- 
gal rights,  to  discharge  his  duties  without  interference,  to  enjoy 
freely  the  fruits  of  his  own  industry  and  enterprise.  In  all  that 
concerns  exterior  relations,  I am  disposed  to  cultivate  the  best 


HISTOKICAL  SKETCH. 


509 


intelligence  with  all  nations,  and  especially  with  the  various 
states  of  Central  America.  I am  in  favor  of  the  maintenance 
of  peace,  and  to  this  end , in  favor  of  the  establishment  of  a 
general  union  upon  sound  and  well-understood  principles” 

Chamorro  was  driven  to  his  native  city  of  Granada,  where 
the  Servile  tendencies  and  the  ancient  jealousy  of  the  rival  city 
of  Leon  insured  him  a welcome  and  an  almost  impregnable 
stronghold.  Here  he  fortified  himself,  and  an  irregular  siege 
by  thrice  his  own  number  of  the  Liberal  or  Democratic  forces 
under  Jerez  was  maintained  until  the  early  part  of  1855. 

Pending  these  hostilities,  Castellon  had  gained  the  entire  pos- 
session of  Nicaragua,  excepting  the  invested  city  of  Granada : 
but  the  protracted  nature  of  the  siege,  and  the  utter  prostration 
of  all  branches  of  industry  consequent  upon  the  war,  gradual- 
ly wearied  and  disgusted  a people  generally  unstable  in  their 
political  prejudices.  The  important  towns  of  Managua,  Ma- 
saya,  and  Rivas  were  recaptured  by  the  Chamorro  or  Legiti- 
mate party  in  a series  of  bloody  engagements.  At  this  time 
Chamorro  died,  and  his  place  as  nominal  president,  or  leader  of 
the  “ Legitimistos,”  was  assumed  by  Estrada,  under  whose  rule 
the  Servile  power  became  partially  re-established  throughout  the 
state,  except  in  the  Department  Occidental,  where  the  unaltera- 
ble Liberal  politics  of  the  people  still  upheld  the  power  of  Cas- 
tellon. 

A brief  review  of  the  past  thirty  years  from  this  point  exhib- 
its Central  America  torn  by  intestine  wars,  waged  by  various 
political  aspirants  for  power  or  plunder,  no  fewer  than  four 
hundred  persons  having  exercised  the  supreme  power  under 
the  Federal  or  State  governments,  with  the  titles  of  presidents, 
governors,  directors,  chiefs,  or  officials  holding  position  under 
them.  Here  it  would  have  been  well  for  these  frantic  destroy- 
ers of  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  fertile  countries  in  the  world 
to  pause,  and  by  a fraternal  harmony  to  have  rebuilt  among 
themselves  the  fabric  they  had  blindly  dragged  to  ruins.  There 
were  those  who,  gazing  fearfully  abroad  from  amid  the  smoke 
of  anarchical  war,  saw  the  approach  of  an  element  which,  once 
invoked,  would  eventually  dissipate  the  petty  sectional  ques- 
tions of  the  day  for  a greater  and  more  vital  issue — that  of 
nationality — between  the  Latin  races  and  that  predestined  pow- 


510 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


er  whose  advance  over  the  fairest  portions  of  Mexico  had  al- 
ready begot  a gloomy  presentiment  of  extinction  before  the 
tread  of  the  Anglo-Saxon ! But  they  failed  to  learn  even  from 
their  enemies  the  secret  of  their  decline  or  the  only  avenue  to 
regeneration. 

Toward  the  close  of  1854,  Castellon,  wearied  with  the  fruit- 
less struggle,  and  alarmed  at  the  reactionary  tendencies  of  the 
people,  sent  proposals  to  California  for  the  enlistment  of  North 
Americans  in  the  Nicaraguan  war,  and  in  May  of  the  following 
year,  the  negotiations  having  been  completed,  Colonel  William 
Walker,  with  fifty-six  followers,  sailed  in  the  brig  Yesta  for 
Central  America,  and,  landing  at  Realejo  on  the  11th  of  June, 
the  anniversary  of  Castellon’s  inaugural  address,  formally  en- 
listed in  the  Nicaraguan  army.  The  result  of  the  introduction 
of  these  auxiliaries  was  the  speedy  overthrow  of  the  Servile 
power  and  the  restoration  of  the  Liberal  party,  Walker  assum- 
ing the  command  of  the  army,  and  thus  virtually  holding  the 
reins  of  government.  Hundreds  of  adventurers  joined  the  for- 
tunes of  the  Americans.  The  adjoining  republics  gazed  with 
alarm  upon  this  unexpected  phase  in  their  political  horizon. 
Alliances  were  formed  between  the  states  for  the  extermination 
of  the  foreigners,  and  at  last  the  party  issues  of  the  day  began 
to  disappear  before  the  more  momentous  one  of  national  exist- 
ence. 

From  the  commencement  of  the  Castellon  revolution  in  Nic- 
aragua, Cabanas  had  lent  every  encouragement  to  the  Liberal 
cause  in  that  state.  Faithful  to  the  principles  he  had  advoca- 
ted from  the  earliest  republican  history  of  the  country,  he  looked 
hopefully  to  the  restoration  of  the  Confederation  of  States,  in 
his  opinion  the  only  form  of  government  under  which  Central 
America  could  long  preserve  its  existence.  The  war  with  Gua- 
temala was  still  continued,  and  thus,  menaced  from  that  quarter, 
he  has  been  much  blamed  for  his  participation  in  the  quarrels 
of  Nicaragua ; but  his  policy  was  confined  to  one  great  object, 
the  re-establishment  of  the  Republic,  and  to  him  no  honorable 
efforts  were  unwarranted  for  its  accomplishment. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  traitors  Lopez  and  Guardiola  were  med- 
itating in  Guatemala  an  incursion  against  Cabanas,  assisted  by 
the  Indian  hordes  they  had  collected  in  that  republic.  The  con- 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


511 


summation  of  their  movements  was  retarded  for  some  months 
by  the  general  favor  shown  by  the  people  to  the  administration 
of  Cabanas,  and  the  lack  of  funds  by  these  conspirators.  The 
war,  however,  was  continued  by  predatory  excursions  on  the 
part  of  both  states.  Hostilities  were  on  the  wane  toward  the 
close  of  1853,  and  the  President  improved  this  short  interval  to 
give  such  encouragement  to  the  commercial  and  industrial  prog- 
ress of  the  state  as  the  impoverished  condition  of  the  country 
would  permit.  But  the  war  had  paralyzed  every  branch  of 
trade,  and  the  distress  thus  caused  was  increased  by  the  scourge 
of  locusts  passing  in  vast  clouds  over  Central  America,  sweep- 
ing away,  as  by  a conflagration,  every  green  thing,  and  leaving 
famine  and  desolation  in  their  path. 

Although,  as  a Spanish  American,  Cabanas  was  personally 
opposed,  at  the  commencement  of  his  administration,  to  the  en- 
couragement of  enterprises  through  which  strangers  would  be 
likely  to  obtain  a dangerous  ascendency  in  Central  America,  he 
was  gradually  induced,  by  the  influence  of  Senors  Cacho  and 
Mejia,  his  ministers,  to  dismiss  these  objections.  In  the  midst 
of  his  harassing  campaign  in  Gracias,  in  the  month  of  July,  he 
found  time  to  turn  his  attention  toward  the  Inter-oceanic  Rail- 
way project ; and  to  Cabanas  should  be  ascribed  the  double 
honor  of  conquering  his  inborn  prejudices  against  foreigners, 
and  of  giving  the  principal  impulse  to  an  enterprise  likely  to 
assume  an  importance  second  to  none  in  the  present  age. 

Actuated  by  the  same  laudable  intentions,  and  penetrated 
with  the  conviction  that  only  through  Northern  industry  and 
enterprise  can  the  Spanish-Ameriean  races  be  raised  to  a per- 
manent grade  of  prosperity,  Senor  Barrundia,  then  far  advanced 
in  years,  and  frequently  referred  to  in  this  sketch  as  a talented 
and  zealous  member  of  the  Liberal  party,  was  dispatched  to 
Washington,  as  the  first  diplomatic  agent  ever  sent  to  the  Uni- 
ted States  by  Honduras  as  a distinct  power.  * His  death,  at  New 

* No  worthier  testimonial  of  the  beneficent  views  of  the  government  at  this 
time  can  be  asked  than  the  accompanying  translation  of  Barrundia’s  presenta- 
tion address  to  President  Pierce,  at  Washington,  on  the  29th  of  May,  1854  : 

“ Mr.  President,  I have  the  honor  to  present  herewith  to  your  excellency  my 
credentials  as  Minister  Plenipotentiary  of  Honduras  near  the  government  of  the 
United  States.  Their  object  is  to  put  me  in  a position  to  establish  an  intimate 
and  fraternal  relationship  between  Honduras  and  the  American  nation.  The 


512 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


York,  on  the  6th  of  August  of  the  same  year,  put  an  untimely 
end  to  the  negotiations,  and  frustrated  the  dawning  hopes  of  the 
Liberals.  The  invasion  by  Guardiola,  shortly  after  the  news 
of  this  calamity  reached  Honduras,  prevented  the  appointment 
of  another  envoy,  a consummation  since  rendered  the  more  hope- 
less by  the  utter  overthrow  of  Cabanas  and  his  party. 

peculiar  circumstances  of  Honduras— the  struggle  in  which  she  has  been  plunged 
by  her  generous  efforts  to  re-establish  the  national  Union  and  the  liberty  of  Cen- 
tral America — efforts  unfortunately  frustrated — her  sympathy  and  admiration  for 
the  great  and  free  people  which  here  presents  to  the  world  a palpable  and  un- 
precedented example  of  progress  in  a government  purely  republican,  and  a prac- 
tical and  demonstrative  refutation  of  the  ideas  of  those  who  treat  all  democratic 
organizations  as  Utopian  ; impressed  with  a merited  appreciation  of  the  generos- 
ity which  always  accompanies  intelligence  and  power,  when  combined,  as  they 
are  in  the  United  States — all  these  are  circumstances  which  give  gravity  to  the 
mission  which  my  government  has  confided  to  me,  and  which  looks  to  ends  the 
most  important,  both  for  the  United  States  and  for  Honduras,  as  well  as  to  the 
further  development  of  American  policy.  The  mission  with  which  I am  charged 
is  perhaps  more  significant  than  any  which  has  yet  originated  in  Central  Amer- 
ica, and  its  objects  are  such  as  are  seldom  confided  to  an  ordinary  legation.  It 
relates  to  the  vital  interests  of  an  American  people,  struggling  against  the  antag- 
onism of  monarchical  principles,  which  unfortunately,  in  some  parts  of  this  con- 
tinent, are  seeking  to  change  the  blessings  of  liberty  and  independence  for  alien 
protectorates  and  irresponsible  dictatorships.  I assure  your  excellency  that  it 
will  afford  me  the  highest  satisfaction  to  treat  in  reference  to  these  important 
matters  with  the  eminent  officers  of  this  republic,  destined  by  their  influence  and 
abilities  to  place  the  American  people  in  harmonious  relations  with  each  other, 
and  to  extend  their  liberty  and  augment  their  prosperity.  Honduras  has  opened 
its  doors,  and  lent  its  co-operation  to  an  enterprise  of  vast  importance  to  the  in- 
terests of  the  world — I refer  to  a free  communication  between  the  two  oceans. 
She  offers  her  commodious  ports,  her  salubrious  climate,  and  her  great  but  un- 
developed resources  to  the  aid  of  this  undertaking,  and  freely  offers  her  rich  and 
fertile  territory  to  the  enterprise  and  industry  of  the  American  people.  Hondu- 
ras should  be  forever  the  friend  and  sister  of  the  United  States,  and  she  looks 
hopefully  to  the  latter  for  the  support  of  her  liberty  and  independence.  May  the 
Eternal  Disposer  of  events  link  together  the  people  of  both  by  the  unalterable  tie 
of  interest  and  future  mutual  prosperity ! I shall  experience  the  greatest  satis- 
faction in  contributing  the  first  step  to  this  result,  and  in  giving  to  the  govern- 
ment of  which  your  excellency  is  the  head  the  evidences  of  the  earnest  solici- 
tude of  Honduras  to  establish  a true  and  intimate  fraternity  with  the  United 
States,  in  such  a form  that  both  nations  may  have  a single  interest  for  the  com- 
mon cause  of  liberty,  and  in  such  a manner  that  Honduras  may  proceed  to  de- 
velop her  latent  elements  of  prosperity,  and  to  improve  the  advantages  of  a 
position  eminently  favored  by  Nature,  without  a fear  of  disturbance  for  the  future, 
either  from  civil  discord  or  exterior  aggression.  Should  such  a fortunate  result 
be  attained,  Honduras  will  yet  present,  in  the  centre  of  the  commercial  world, 
the  glorious  spectacle  of  a free  and  prosperous  people  sustained  by  the  generos- 
ity of  the  great  American  republic.” 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


513 


Early  in  1854  General  Francisco  Gomez,  one  of  the  bravest 
of  Cabanas’s  officers,  was  sent  with  eight  hundred  men  into 
Nicaragua,  to  assist  in  supporting  the  Liberal  cause  in  that 
state,  the  greater  part  of  whom  fell  in  the  siege  of  Granada,  or 
were  destroyed  by  a malignant  fever  at  that  time  decimating 
the  entire  population.  The  mountaineers  of  Honduras,  at  all 
times  fearful  of  the  “ tierra  caliente”  of  Nicaragua,  were  almost 
annihilated  by  the  fatal  disease.  The  brave  Gomez  was  among 
its  earliest  victims,  and  in  the  panic  created  by  these  ravages, 
the  emissaries  of  the  opposite  party  were  charged  with  poison- 
ing the  springs.  The  few  who  made  their  escape  by  deserting 
returned  to  Honduras  with  a settled  aversion  to  all  future  mil- 
itary expeditions.  Their  example  was  contagious,  and  Cabanas, 
threatened  by  Guatemala,  found  himself  unable  to  raise  the  nec- 
essary troops  to  protect  the  western  frontier. 

The  efforts  of  Guardiola  were  now  redoubled,  and  in  Novem- 
ber he  entered  the  Department  of  Gracias,  where  he  issued  proc- 
lamations to  the  people  of  Honduras  denouncing  the  adminis- 
tration of  Cabanas,  and  marking  his  way  with  plunder  and  mur- 
der. Every  exertion  was  made  by  the  government  to  meet  this 
inroad.  Unwilling  to  adopt  the  customary  method  of  forcible 
contributions,  Cabanas  imposed  additional  impositions  on  stamp- 
ed paper,  and  by  other  legitimate  means  attempted  to  augment 
his  resources,  while  patriotic  appeals  were  made  in  the  official 
gazette  for  voluntary  assistance  from  the  inhabitants ; but  it 
appears  that  the  utter  selfishness  of  the  people  had  blighted  ev- 
ery national  sentiment  and  clipped  the  wings  of  patriotism. 

The  co-operation  of  San  Salvador,  which  had  been  confident- 
ly expected  under  the  administration  of  President  San  Martin, 
was  withheld,  owing  to  disputes  artfully  nourished  by  Guate- 
mala relative  to  the  supposed  sale  to  Americans  by  Honduras 
of  the  island  of  Mianguerra,  in  the  Bay  of  Fonseca,  and  belong- 
ing to  San  Salvador.  The  extraordinary  liberality  of  Cabanas 
in  encouraging  foreign  enterprise  was  also  now  used  against 
him  by  his  enemies  with  fearful  effect.  Overtures  were  made  to 
North  Americans  in  Honduras  for  the  enlistment  of  Californians 
in  the  Liberal  cause,  but  unsuccessfully. 

For  some  months  the  Liberal  party  had  watched  the  move- 
ments of  Carrera  with  well-grounded  alarm.  Since  the  previous 

Kk 


514 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


year,  a party  had  arisen  who  openly  advocated  Carrera  as  per- 
petual president  or  dictator  with  extraordinary  powers.  Some 
difference  existed  among  the  departments  of  Guatemala  as  to 
the  extent  of  these  powers ; but  the  majority,  consisting  of  his 
Indian  adherents  and  those  families  who  hoped  by  such  a 
change  to  re-establish  the  noblesse , were  in  favor  of  absolutism, 
and  there  were  not  wanting  those  who  espoused  an  imperialty. 

On  the  18th  of  May,  1854,  it  became  known  that  the  initia- 
tory steps  would  be  taken  in  the  city  of  Guatemala,  and  to  give 
the  semblance  of  having  exerted  no  undue  influence,  Carrera  re- 
tired to  an  estate  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The  municipal  officers 
could  not  agree,  but,  notwithstanding  this  feeling,  the  pronun- 
ciamiento  was  made  on  the  23d,  and  signed  by  some  two  hundred 
Indians,  some  of  the  clergy  and  citizens,  and  by  a few  of  the 
authorities,  but  not  in  their  official  capacities.  The  success  of 
the  movement  was  mainly  attributed  to  Aycinena,  Minister  of 
State.  A procession  proceeded  to  the  Cathedral,  where  the  Tc 
Deum  was  sung,  but  the  whole  proceeding  was  regarded  with 
coldness  by  the  people.  The  ceremonies  of  inauguration  oc- 
curred on  the  21st  of  October,  and  the  ensuing  evening  the 
event  was  celebrated  with  illuminations  and  salvos  of  artillery. 
As  this  was  believed  to  be  but  the  preliminary  step  to  the  es- 
tablishment of  a Guatemalan  empire,  and  the  subsequent  absorp- 
tion of  the  adjacent  states,  renewed  efforts  were  made  to  organize 
a general  movement  against  the  Servile  power,  but  fruitlessly. 
The  issue  between  Guatemala  and  Mexico,  as  to  the  right  to 
the  Department  of  Soconusco,  forming  a portion  of  the  Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec,  and  seized  in  1843  by  Mexico,  was  finally  set- 
tled early  in  this  year  by  the  cession  to  Mexico  for  $420,000, 
payable  in  four  installments,  of  the  entire  claim  of  Guatemala 
to  Soconusco  and  Chiapas. 

Late  in  the  year,  Cabanas,  with  his  army,  left  Tegucigalpa, 
where  the  government  had  been  located  during  1854,  and,  pass- 
ing through  Comayagua,  collected  his  entire  forces,  and  station- 
ed himself  at  Santa  Rosa,  in  the  Department  of  Gracias.  His 
departure  was  the  signal  for  active  secret  measures  against  him 
on  the  part  of  the  principal  Servile  families  in  Tegucigalpa,  and 
from  this  time  maybe  dated  the  downfall  of  his  administration. 
His  term  of  office  expiring  at  this  time,  Cabanas  expressed  his 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


515 


desire  that  the  candidates  for  the  succession  should  be  subject- 
ed to  the  test  of  the  popular  vote,  under  the  provisions  of  the 
Constitution.  To  this  the  infamous  Guardiola,  who  aimed  at 
the  supreme  power,  would  not  have  assented,  had  he  even  been 
a peaceful  aspirant  to  the  office,  for  a lifetime  of  barbarous  mur- 
ders had  rendered  his  name  a terror  and  symbol  of  detestation 
to  all  Central  America.  Efforts  were  made  at  this  time,  by  the 
government  of  San  Salvador  to  restore  peace  between  the  two 
republics,  by  the  appointment  of  Senor  Maximo  Soto  as  a com- 
missioner, but  ineffectually. 

An  attempt  to  press  men  from  the  Department  of  Olancho 
gave  rise,  about  this  time,  to  disturbances  amounting  to  open 
rebellion.  The  alarming:  immigration  of  the  inhabitants  of  that 
section  toward  the  coast  induced  the  government  to  issue  a de- 
cree, prohibiting,  under  heavy  penalties,  all  Olanchanos  from 
leaving  the  department.  This  produced  the  impression  that 
the  law  was  in  retaliation  for  the  refusal  to  recruit  the  army; 
and  though,  in  January,  the  authorities  issued  a manifesto  ac- 
knowledging their  allegiance,  a general  revolt  occurred  a few 
months  later,  in  which  the  administration  of  Cabanas  was  de- 
nounced by  a large  majority  of  the  people. 

The  year  1855  found  Honduras  still  at  war  with  Guatemala, 
and  the  remaining  republics  making  feeble  exertions  to  restore 
the  belligerents  to  amicable  terms.  Such  efforts  were  futile, 
from  the  known  determination  of  Guardiola  to  attain  the  su- 
preme power  in  the  state.  In  January,  Cabanas  advanced 
with  his  forces  to  Sensenti,  where,  in  connection  with  General 
Mille,  he  twice  defeated  detachments  of  the  invaders,  and  obliged 
them  to  retire  into  Guatemala.  The  enemy,  however,  shortly 
after  re-entered  the  country,  re-enforced  by  Generals  Lopez  and 
Medina.  The  latter  was  in  command  of  the  castle  of  Omoa 
when  surrendered  to  Colonel  Zavala  in  1853,  since  which  he  had 
been  suspected  by  Cabanas  of  treachery  on  that  occasion.  His 
subsequent  desertion  and  enlistment  with  the  enemy  verified 
the  suspicion.  A temporary  cessation  of  hostilities  took  place 
at  this  juncture,  President  San  Martin,  of  San  Salvador,  having- 
acted  as  a mediator  between  the  parties.  To  facilitate  this, 
Cabanas  retired  temporarily  from  the  frontier,  but  the  invaders 
proposing  the  accession  of  Guardiola  to  the  presidency  without 


516 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  ordeal  of  the  ballot-box,  the  negotiations  at  once  ceased,  and 
the  Guatemalan  forces  renewed  their  local  reign  of  terror  in  the 
region  of  Ocotepeque,  committing  excesses  which  are  described 
in  the  Gaceta  Oficial  of  that  date  as  “beyond  description  for 
their  horror  and  enormity.” 

Cabanas,  however,  found  himself  unable  to  cope  with  the  daily 
increasing  forces  of  the  enemy,  who,  carrying  terror  and  dismay 
in  their  path,  extorted  the  supplies  from  the  inhabitants  refused 
to  the  milder  demands  of  the  Liberals.  He  was  finally  obliged 
to  retreat  into  San  Salvador,  and  the  Servile  government  was 
again  established  in  Honduras  under  Lopez.  Guardiola  subse- 
quently repaired  to  Nicaragua,  and  in  the  following  September 
was  defeated  by  Walker’s  troops  at  Virgin  Bay,  after  which  he 
returned  to  his  native  state  and  assumed  the  presidency.  Se- 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


517 


nors  Cacho  and  Mejia,  the  Ministers  of  Finance  and  State  under 
Cabanas,  were  immediately  seized  and  tried  for  “ malfeasance  in 
office.” 

It  was  a few  months  previous  to  this  time,  as  has  been  al- 
ready narrated,  that  the  co-operation  of  North  Americans  was 
obtained  by  Castellon  in  the  Liberal  or  Democratic  cause  in 
Nicaragua.  On  the  establishment  of  the  Rivas- Walker  govern- 
ment in  October,  relying  on  the  sympathy  of  these  American 
auxiliaries,  Cabanas  visited  Granada,  and  applied  for  men  and 
arms  to  depose  the  usurper  Guardiola.  While  pointing  to  the 
generous  self-sacrifice  he  had  made  in  1854  in  support  of  Cas- 
tellon and  the  Liberal  cause,  he  asked  a substantial  recognition 
of  his  own  claims,  and  the  assistance  of  the  Americans  to  enforce 
them. 

It  was  not,  however,  in  the  power  of  the  new  government  to 
extend  such  aid — its  own  existence  but  problematical,  and  en- 
vironed with  hostile  neighbors.  Cabanas,  keenly  alive  to  the 
alleged  ingratitude  of  those  in  whose  cause  he  had  lost  all,  re- 
tired without  ceremony  from  Granada,  the  determined  enemy  of 
the  American  party  in  Central  America.  The  course  of  Guar- 
diola thenceforth  has  been  that  of  an  ignorant  and  unscrupulous 
tyrant.  Imitating  the  policy  of  Carrera,  but  surpassing  even  him 
in  personal  brutality,  he  is  regarded  by  the  people  as  an  instru- 
ment in  the  hands  of  the  Guatemalan  government,  at  all  times 
prepared  to  sacrifice  the  liberties  of  Honduras  to  its  demands.* 


* “ He  is  a dark-colored  mestizo,  stout  built,  and  rather  corpulent,  his  face  ex- 
pressing his  fiendish  temper,  but  well  liked  by  the  soldiers,  whom  he  indulges 
in  every  way.  To  his  habits  of  intoxication  may  be  added  every  species  of  vice 
which  can  be  named  among  the  vicious  inhabitants  of  Central  America ; and  fre- 
quently, in  his  drunken  fits,  he  orders  people  to  be  shot  who  have  in  nothing 
offended  him,  while  at  all  times  the  most  trifling  expression,  incautiously  uttered, 
is  sufficient  to  cause  the  babbler  to  be  shot  without  mercy.  In  private  life  he  is  as 
brutal  as  can  well  be  imagined.  In  all  the  towns  through  which  he  passes,  he 
makes  a habit  of  calling  in  the  best-looking  women  he  can  see,  and,  after  subject- 
ing them  to  infamous  treatment,  he  drives  them  forth  with  the  most  insulting 
epithets  ; yet  he  is  certainly  the  best  and  most  successful  general  of  any  now  ex- 
isting, and,  probably,  of  any  who  have  appeared  in  Central  America.  Like  Ma- 
rius, the  Roman  leader,  his  brutal  manners  serve  to  terrify  the  enemy ; hence, 
while  the  arrival  of  Cabanas  and  most  of  the  other  leaders  is  looked  upon  without 
fear  by  the  people  of  the  contending  states,  the  bare  mention  of  the  name  of 
Guardiola  is  sufficient  to  make  the  inhabitants  fly  to  the  woods,  leaving  every  thing 
behind  them.” — Dunlop's  Travels  in  Central  America , p.  237. 


518 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


There  remains  little  to  be  written  of  the  history  of  Central 
America.  The  invasion  of  Nicaragua  by  the  forces  of  Costa 
Rica,  and  the  disastrous  issue  of  that  expedition ; the  diplomat- 
ic relations  arising  between  the  new  government  of  Nicaragua 
and  the  United  States  ; the  elevation  of  Walker  to  the  presi- 
dency, and  the  alliance  of  the  states  against  his  government,  are 
events  transpiring  in  1856,  and  must  hereafter  be  subjects  of 
more  detailed  history. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  main  cause  of  the  devastating  wars 
of  Central  America  has  been  the  division  of  the  states  into  irre- 
concilable parties,  one  advocating  the  continuance  of  the  obso- 
lete forms  of  the  Spanish  viceroyalty  and  the  revival  of  the 
extinct  aristocratical  institutions  of  the  colonial  period,  and  the 
other,  emulous  of  the  astonishing  progress  of  the  United  States 
under  a purely  republican  government,  vainly  attempting  to 
establish  a similar  system,  and  shedding  their  best  blood  in  the 
thirty  years’  struggle  to  that  end. 

Of  the  patriotic  motives  of  the  Liberals,  scarcely  one  among 
the  few  native  and  foreign  writers  upon  the  politics  of  Central 
America  but  pay  a deserved  tribute  to  their  earnest  exertions 
in  behalf  of  their  country.  An  English  author  includes  in  the 
Liberal  party  some  few  who  had  been  distinguished  men  under 
the  monarchy,  the  greater  portion  of  the  legal  and  medical  pro- 
fessions, or,  in  other  words,  the  elite  of  the  University,  who  had 
preferred  those  studies  to  that  of  theology  or  canons,  not  so 
much  as  a means  of  support  as  because  they  are  almost  the  only 
careers  open  to  those  who  reject  the  ecclesiastical  vocation.  “ It 
also  numbered  many  merchants  and  landed  proprietors,  support- 
ed by  a numerous  body  composed  of  the  more  intelligent  arti- 
sans and  laborers.  Their  leaders  were  men  of  very  decided 
democratical  principles,  of  unquestionable  ability,  and,  consider- 
ing the  school  they  were  brought  up  in,  and  the  influence  that 
surrounded  them,  they  manifested  no  small  amount  of  true  pa- 
triotism and  devotedness  to  their  convictions  ; though,  alas  ! in 
too  many  instances  stained  with  venality,  and  even  with  deeds 
of  oppression  and  blood.  What  they  overthrew  and  what  they 
accomplished  for  the  state  is  honorable  alike  to  their  talents  and 
their  sentiments  ; and  though  the  limits  of  a sketch  will  scarce- 
ly admit  of  a due  appreciation  of  it,  a cursory  view  of  their 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


519 


achievements,  taking  into  consideration  the  circumstances  of  the 
people  and  of  the  times,  will  probably  excite  more  wonder,  and 
certainly  merits  higher  praise,  than  the  victories  of  Alvarado.” 

Since  Guardiola’s  usurpation  of  the  supreme  power  in  Hon- 
duras, the  state  has  assumed  a temporary  importance  abroad, 
by  the  arrangement  of  a treaty  between  its  government  and  that 
of  Great  Britain,  by  which  the  Central  American  question  was 
finally  settled,  the  Bay  Islands  restored  to  the  republic,  and  the 
British  protectorate  withdrawn  from  the  Mosquito  Territory. 
The  communication  of  Sehor  Alvarado,  Honduras  minister  to 
Great  Britain,  announcing  to  his  government  the  conclusion  of 
the  treaty,  is  dated  London,  September  15,  1856.  The  princi- 
pal feature  in  the  Convention  was  the  right  accorded  to  the  in- 
habitants of  the  Bay  Islands  to  maintain  their  own  municipal 
government,  to  be  administered  by  legislative,  executive,  and 
judicial  officers  of  their  own  election,  trial  by  jury  in  their  own 
courts,  freedom  of  religious  belief  and  worship,  public  and  pri- 
vate, exemption  from  military  service  except  for  their  own  de- 
fense, and  from  all  taxation  on  real  or  other  property  beyond 
such  as  may  be  imposed  by  their  own  municipality,  and  collect- 
ed for  the  treasury  of  the  same,  and  to  be  applied  to  the  com- 
mon benefit. 

The  stipulations  concerning  religious  freedom  and  trial  by 
jury  are  thus  forced  on  Honduras,  and  furnish  the  genus  from 
which  these  eminently  Anglo-Saxon  ideas  must  eventually 
spread  to  the  main  land.  Under  the  Federal  republic,  the  at- 
tempt to  introduce  this  gave  rise  to  the  sanguinary  conflicts  be- 
tween the  authorities  and  the  Indians,  who  then,  as  now,  were 
incapable  of  appreciating  its  benefits.  The  privileges  thus  ac- 
corded to  an  integral  portion  of  the  state  afford  the  first  instance 
of  the  establishment  in  Central  America  of  republican  institu- 
tions which  are  not  subject  to  overthrow  at  the  caprice  of  tem- 
porary rulers. 

There  seems  little  likelihood,  however,  of  such  advantages  ex- 
tending to  the  main  land  during  the  administration  of  Guardio- 
la,  who  has  recently  caused  special  laws  to  be  enacted  prohibit- 
ing the  entrance  of  foreigners  into  the  interior  country,  under 
whatever  consideration,  and  jealously  excluding  Americans  from 
even  a residence  at  the  sea-ports.  This  policy,  so  directly  op- 


520 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


posite  to  the  progressive  course  of  Cabanas,  can  only  terminate 
with  the  revival  and  establishment  of  the  old  Liberal  cause. 

At  no  period  in  the  history  of  Central  America  has  Nicara- 
gua presented  a more  remarkable  spectacle  than  during  the  year 
1856.  In  that  time,  by  an  extraordinary  series  of  events,  a new 
element  has  been  introduced,  and  the  entire  fabric  of  government 
under  the  old  forms  has  been  overturned.  The  events  transpir- 
ing since  the  success  of  the  Democratic  party,  aided  by  Ameri- 
iean  auxiliaries,  have  passed  with  such  startling  rapidity  that 
political  and  social  results  have  been  attained  in  months,  which, 
under  ordinary  circumstances,  can  only  occur  in  years.  That 
Central  America  demands  the  rule  of  an  iron  hand,  of  a power 
not  tyrannical,  but  firm,  and  even  arbitrary,  the  history  of  the 
past  thirty  years  sufficiently  shows.  Whether  the  country  would 
be  benefited  to  a greater  extent,  and  the  people  governed  more 
equitably  by  a native  or  foreign  ruler,  it  is  not  difficult  to  say, 
particularly  if  the  newer  element  carry  with  it  the  germs  of  civ- 
ilization and  industry,  names  which  have  been  fast  disappearing 
in  Nicaragua  before  the  destroying  wars  conducted  by  ignorant 
and  rapacious  leaders. 

The  government  which  for  a year  past  has  been  struggling  for 
supremacy  under  Anglo-Saxon  auspices  seems  to  be  regarded 
as  a usurpation  or  a revivifying  element,  according  to  the  tem- 
porary partisanship  or  prejudices  of  the  inhabitants.  Independ- 
ent of  the  class  which  there,  as  in  all  countries,  may  be  moved, 
by  direct  influences,  in  favor  of  any  successful  party,  the  mass 
of  the  natives,  impoverished  by  a lifetime  of  bloodshed  and  ter- 
ror, ask  but  for  a stable  government,  with  the  ability  to  sup- 
press factious  chieftains,  maintain  order,  and  insure  protection  to 
life  and  property.  These  are  blessings  of  liberty  which  hither- 
to, under  nominal  republican  governments,  have  existed  in  Cen- 
tral America  only  as  theories.  The  well-known  German  natu- 
ralist and  traveler,  Dr.  Moritz  Wagner,  has  remarked  that,  in  the 
greater  part  of  Central  America,  which,  since  its  repudiation  from 
Spain,  has  been  devastated  by  anarchy  and  civil  wars,  people 
have  now  arrived  at  a resting-point  which  seems  to  augur  a 
change  for  a better  regulated  and  happier  condition.  From  the 
table-land  of  Mexico  to  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  there  prevails 
a general  presentiment  among  the  population  that  they  will  be. 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


521 


probably  at  no  very  distant  time,  compelled,  for  the  benefit  of 
their  own  country,  although  to  the  ruin  of  the  race  which  has 
till  now  governed  them,  to  join  the  striped  banner  of  the  “ Un- 
ion,” and  to  follow,  like  satellites,  in  the  orbit  of  the  same  planet. 

The  Spanish-Americans  look  with  a sort  of  painful  feeling  at 
this  new  movement,  into  which  they  are  hurled  by  Providential 
power  stronger  than  human  resistance.  They  have  a well-found- 
ed presentiment,  which  fills  them  with  apprehension,  that  in  this 
forced  alliance  with  the  stronger  race  their  own  weaker  one  must 
succumb,  or  will,  at  the  best,  but  poorly  vegetate.  Nevertheless, 
every  one  is  convinced  that,  by  transplanting  there  a more  en- 
ergetic race  of  men,  these  countries  can  not  but  be  greatly  im- 
proved. Along  with  the  Yankees,  capital,  banks,  commercial 
and  industrial  activity,  immigration,  rail-roads,  steam-boats,  and 
plank  roads  will  simultaneously  be  introduced.  But,  at  the  same 
time,  the  Spanish- American  race,  in  that  blessed  tropical  region, 
where  Nature  bountifully  supplies  whatever  man  has  need  of 
for  his  sustenance,  will  also  lose  the  privilege  of  indulging  in 
pleasant  indolence,  without  caring  for  the  gigantic  progress  of 
neighboring  civilization.  * * * * * * * 

He  who  has  rightly  understood  the  political  incapacity  of 
these  populations,  and  the  helpless,  forlorn  condition  of  all  the 
Spanish-American  republics,  to  which  there  is  but  one  remedy 
— a peaceful  immigration  of  Northern  men,  who,  by  intermar- 
riage, would  gradually  change  the  character  of  the  Southern  race 
— would  feel  tempted  to  adopt,  in  regard  to  those  republics,  the 
awful  motto  which  the  poet  of  the  “ Divina  Comedia”  placed 
over  the  entrance  to  hell,  “ Voi  che  v’entrate  lasciate  agni  spe- 
ranza .”  One  should  simply  advise  the  Spanish-Americans  to 
submit,  with  Asiatic  resignation,  to  their  destiny.  Nature  itself 
seems  to  have  refused  to  those  populations  of  mixed  Indian 
blood  the  means  of  mastering  by  their  own  efforts  their  innate 
lethargy. 

It  is  a strange  force,  that  destiny  which  leads  nations,  partly 
spontaneously,  partly  in  spite  of  themselves,  on  the  path  mark- 
ed out  for  them — the  one  upward,  the  others  downward.  Be- 
sistance  is  of  no  avail  against  that  destiny. 

In  such  sentiments  it  is  less  difficult  to  acquiesce  after  a vis- 
it, especially  if  it  has  been  a protracted  one,  to  Central  America, 


522 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


where  a constant  association  with  the  people,  and  the  opportuni- 
ty afforded  of  studying  the  condition  of  the  country,  enables  the 
stranger  to  estimate  the  character  of  its  inhabitants.  But  it  is 
now  south  as  well  as  west  that  the  American  people  are  spread- 
ing ; whether  this  movement  is  to  produce,  in  the  tropics,  re- 
sults at  all  approximating  to  those  displayed  by  emigration 
westward,  is  beyond  the  limits  of  prediction. 


CHAPTER  XXYII. 

Silver  Mining  in  Honduras. — Mineral  Districts  and  Mines  of  Tegucigalpa. — 
Methods  of  extracting  the  Metal.- — The  Gold  Region  of  Olancho  and  Yoro. — 
Gold  Mining. — Copper  and  other  Metals. — Opals  and  Precious  Stones. 

The  Silver  Mines  of  Tegucigalpa. — It  has  been  justly 
claimed  that  Honduras  is  not  excelled  by  any  country  in  the 
world  in  the  variety  and  abundance  of  her  mineral  treasures. 
The  testimony  of  authors  through  the  last  half  century,  not  to 
speak  of  the  accounts  of  the  early  Spanish  writers,  may  be  cited 
in  proof  of  the  value  of  the  mineral  deposits  of  this  portion  of 
Central  America.  Honduras  is  eminently  a country  in  which 
the  extraction  of  metals  from  the  soil  is  to  continue,  as  it  has 
been,  the  chief  source  of  wealth  to  its  inhabitants,  and  to  the 
seductive  mining  enterprises  constantly  offering  in  its  broad  ex- 
tent may  be  traced  the  real  cause  of  its  decay ; for  the  frequent 
inducements  held  but  in  every  direction  to  work  silver  mines, 
without  the  necessary  capital  and  knowledge  of  the  business 
necessary  for  success,  has,  to  a certain  extent,  assisted  by  the 
political  confusion  since  the  Independence,  diverted  the  people 
from  the  steadier  pursuits  of  agriculture. 

Under  the  rule  of  Spain,  silver  mines  were  opened  and  worked 
according  to  the  best  methods  then  known  ; vast  sums,  as  in 
Mexico  and  Peru,  were  realized,  but  involving  the  use  of  large 
capital.  With  the  departure  of  tire  wealthy  Spanish  families 
after  the  Revolution,  the  mining  interest  declined,  and  was  but 
feebly  prosecuted  thenceforth,  except  in  some  rare  instances 
where  foreign  capital  was  invested. 

But  the  departure  of  the  prosperous  days  of  silver  mining  did 
not  discourage  those  who  had  witnessed  or  received  traditionary 


THE  SILVER  MINES. 


523 


accounts  of  their  richness  from  attempting  to  renew  them;  and 
to  the  present  day  the  country  is  filled  with  needy  mining  ad- 
venturers, known  as  “ empresarios,”  but  generally  lacking  the 
energy  and  capital  to  prosecute  the  business.  The  mines  re- 
maining in  the  possession  of  the  descendants  of  the  old  propri- 
etors are  occasionally  worked,  and  in  some  instances  with  great 
profit;  but,  as  a general  rule,  their  productiveness  can  not  be  de- 
pended upon,  unless  under  the  direction  of  foreigners. 

The  ores  are  of  numerous  descriptions,  varying  with  the  lo- 
cality and  formation  of  the  country.  Threads  of  pure  silver 
have  often  been  discovered,  but  the  minerals  are  mostly  carbon- 
ates and  sulphurets  of  iron,  silver,  and  zinc,  and  oxydes  of  iron, 
manganese,  and  antimony.  There  are  occasional  chlorides  of 
silver  and  numerous  other  substances,  presenting  the  varieties 
of  black,  gray,  and  red  ores,  the  latter  resembling  extremely  solid 
ferruginous  rock,  and  resisting  all  attempts  of  the  natives  to 
work  them  ; but  most  of  the  ores  are  easily  wrought.  The  sil- 
ver region  of  the  Department  of  Tegucigalpa  has  been  already 
partially  described  in  my  narrative.  A more  particular  account 
of  these  mines,  and  of  the  native  methods  of  working  them,  is 
perhaps  necessary  to  illustrate  the  subject. 

The  Department  of  Tegucigalpa,  which  is  one  of  seven  com- 
prising the  State  of  Honduras,  has  been  divided  among  miners 
into  ten  “ minerales ,”  or  mineral  sections,  known  as  the  locali- 
ties of  silver,  gold,  or  copper  mines.  These  are  reckoned  as  fol- 
lows: Barajana,  Minas  de  Plata,  San  Juan  de  Cantaranos,  Guas- 
caran,  Plorno,  Villanueva,  Santa  Lucia,  Yuscaran,  Cedros,  and 
San  Antonio.  These  I have  indicated  on  my  map  of  Eastern 
Honduras.  There  are,  in  addition,  numerous  isolated  instances 
of  copper  and  iron  mines.  Each  of  these  districts  has  its  con- 
stellation of  silver  mines,  famous  for  their  ancient  productive- 
ness, and  which  may  be  described  under  the  head  of  the  various 
“ minerales.''' 

La  Mineral  de  Barajana. — La  Corona  Albarda,  an  an- 
cient silver  mine,  but  deserted  some  years  before  the  Revolution, 
since  which  it  has  not  been  worked,  and  could  be  reopened  with 
little  expense.  La  Barajana. — -Deserted  some  years  since ; 
was  formerly  famous  for  its  productiveness.  There  are  numer- 
ous evidences  in  this  vicinity  of  ancient  workings,  and  the  re- 


524 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


mains  of  old  roads,  constructed  apparently  at  great  expense, 
may  yet  be  seen,  though  nearly  overgrown  with  trees. 

La  Mineral  de  las  Minas  de  Plata. — The  names  of  the 
mines  in  this  district  I was  unable  to  obtain.  They  were  worked 
up  to  1820,  when  they  were  allowed  to  fall  to  ruins  for  want  of 
laborers.  Some  of  these  mines  are  known  to  be  rich,  and  are 
yet  the  resort  of  the  straggling  “gleaners”  elsewhere  described. 

La  Mineral  de  San  Juan  de  Cantaranos. — These  mines 
are  situated  on  high  land,  and  the  district  has  been  subdivided 
into  the  “ miner  ales'  of  San  Juan  and  San  Juanito,  the  latter 
situated  on  the  high  land,  and  the  former  along  the  valley  of  the 
San  Juan  mountains.  The  ore  yields  both  silver  and  gold. 
Several  mines  at  this  place,  filled  with  water  and  stones,  are  re- 
puted rich. 

La  Mineral  de  las  Minas  de  Oro. — This  district  is  sit- 
uated toward  the  extreme  northern  point  of  the  department,  but 
is  included  in  that  of  Comayagua.  The  ore  yields  gold  and 
copper,  but  no  silver.  Placer  washings  have  also  been  discov- 
ered here,  whence  its  appellation.*  The  operations  have  been 
confined  to  the  little  creek  taking  its  name  from  the  mines,  and 
no  attempts  have  been  made  to  explore  the  ground  beyond  or  to 
introduce  machinery.  The  copper  mines  at  this  place  were  once 
extensively  worked;  the  ore  contains  a small  percentage  of  gold. 
The  copper  formerly  coined  at  the  Mint  of  Tegucigalpa  was 
brought  from  this  locality,  giving  rise  to  the  supposition  that 
the  coin  contained  a considerable  proportion  of  gold.  There  are 
all  the  facilities  here  for  the  labor  of  a large  company. 

La  Mineral  de  Guascaran. — The  names  of  the  mines  of 
this  district  are  not  to  be  found,  excepting  that  of  la  Guascaran , 
which  is  still  worked  by  ox  power,  and  yields  a handsome  return. 

La  Mineral  de  Plomo. — This  district  is  situated  to  the 
southward  of  Tegucigalpa,  between  that  city  and  Guascaran. 
Its  ores  are  an  argentiferous  galena,  from  which  it  derives  its 
name.  There  is  a peculiarity  in  this  mineral  known  to  no  other 
but  that  of  San  Antonio.  The  veins  are  said  to  run  like  those 

* El  muy  pequena  con  el  nombre  de  Minas  de  Oro  donde  existe  una  Aldea 
que  parte  de  sus  habitantes  en  ciertas  epocas  del  aiio  se  dedican  a lavar  el  oro  de 
sus  arroyos  en  muy  pequena  escala,  y por  un  sistema  muy  atrazado.” — Golpc  dc 
Vista  sobre  Honduras. 


THE  SILVER  MINES. 


52  5 


of  some  coal  mines,  in  flat,  horizontal  layers,  compressed  be- 
tween the  “ magistral,”  or  formation,  or  strata,  which  preserves, 
in  every  instance,  a similar  dip  and  inclination.  A shaft  sunk 
in  any  part  of  this  district  to  a distance  of  flfteen  yards,  strikes 
some  part  of  one  of  these  veins,  which  are  large  and  easily 
worked.  The  difficulty  of  separating  the  silver  from  the  ore  is 
now  alleged  to  be  the  only  reason  why  these  mines  are  not 
worked.  Assays  are  said  to  have  yielded  18.77  per  cent.,  but 
every  attempt  at  smelting  has  resulted  in  loss,  owing,  as  it  is 
believed,  to  certain  unexplained  properties  in  the  ore,  which  re- 
sist the  usual  processes.  One  of  the  richest  mines  here  was 
la  Mina  de  Plomo , owned  by  the  Duron  family.  It  had  once 
the  reputation  of  being  the  most  productive  in  the  state. 

La  Mineral  de  Villanueva. — Previous  to  the  Revolution 
this  district  produced  immense  sums  of  silver.  Its  ores  are 
sulphurets  of  iron,  of  a deep  red  hue,  resembling  cinnabar. 
Among  its  most  celebrated  mines  are  that  of  Im  Pena , owned  by 
Senor  Lardizabal  of  Tegucigalpa,  Im  Culebre , and  La  Zopilote, 
or  Buzzard  Mine,  which,  though  now  filled  with  stones  and 
water,  is  asserted  to  have  been  yielding  in  an  extraordinary 
manner  at  the  time  of  its  desertion.  A few  thousand  dollars  is 
represented  as  being  sufficient  to  restore  it  to  its  former  condi- 
tion. There  are  many  mines  here  with  evidences  of  great  antiq- 
uity. 

La  Mineral  de  Santa  Lucia. — This  district,  which  I ex- 
amined more  carefully  than  any  of  the  others,  has  been  else- 
where described  at  length.  Not  less  than  two  hundred  mines 
are  said  to  have  been  worked  at  this  place  during  the  last  three 
centuries.  In  Tegucigalpa  it  is  regarded  as  the  richest  deposit 
of  silver  in  the  state.  Only  four  are  now  worked.  The  most 
celebrated  in  the  annals  of  the  place  are  those  of  La  Gatal,  San 
Martin,  Im  Mina  Grande,  La  Mina  de  las  Ninos,  El  Cristo, 
La  Cangreja,  and  La  Mina  Encaitada.  The  specimens  brought 
by  myself  from  these  mines  and  those  of  Villanueva  were  as- 
sayed by  Dr.  Hewston,  an  eminent  chemist  of  San  Francisco, 
with  the  results  given  below.* 

“ San  Francisco,  California,  J une  20th,  1S55. 

“ I have  carefully  assayed  eight  samples  of  ore  from  the  silver  mines  of  Hon- 
duras collected  by  Mr.  Wells.  The  following  are  the  results  : 


526 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


La  Mineral  de  Yuscaran. — No  district  in  the  department 
is  so  well  known  to  foreigners,  or  now  enjoys  so  wide  a rep- 
utation as  this.  It  has  been  the  field  of  operations  of  numer- 
ous companies,  some  of  whom  have  amassed  large  fortunes. 
The  town  of  Yuscaran  is  its  centre.  Some  twelve  mines  are 
now  worked  or  have  been  opened  within  ten  years.  The  mines 
most  noted  in  its  history  are  Las  Guayabillas,  or  “ Guavas ,” 
the  extraordinary  productiveness  and  history  of  which  I have 
referred  to  in  my  narrative.  Ims  Iguanas  has,  in  many  respects, 
a similar  history,  and,  though  well  known  to  be  rich,  is  now  de- 
serted and  in  ruins.  El  Cajoero,  situated  near  the  town  of  Yus- 
caran : it  is  very  ancient,  and  has  been  recently  opened  and  suc- 
cessfully worked  by  Senors  Uncal  and  Ferrari,  of  Tegucigalpa. 
Ims  Quemasones , owned  by  a company  of  natives,  who  work  it 
very  successfully  with  rude  machinery.  La  Malacate  (or  Wind- 
lass Mine),  formerly  worked  with  great  profit  by  a native  com- 
pany. Lm  Suyatal  (or  Palm  Plant) : the  ore  of  this  mine  yields 
a percentage  of  gold ; it  is  now  owned  by  Senor  Funes,  of  Yus- 
caran, who  only  works  it  sufficiently  to  retain  the  title  under  the 
provisions  of  the  “ Ordinanzas  de  la  Mineria,”  or  Mining  Ordi- 
nances, which  have  descended  without  alteration  from  the  days 
of  the  Spaniards.  El  Montserrat , though  once  yielding  large- 
ly, is  not  now  worked : it  is  owned  by  an  English  gentleman 
named  Collyer,  who  is  married  to  a lady  of  Tegucigalpa.  El 


Contains  pure  Silver 
per  Ton. 


Value. 


40  oz.  17  dirts.  $52  82 


Samples  marked, 

1.  Yeta  principal,  from  Mina  de  Gatal.  ) 

Santa  Lucia,  Tegucigalpa.  ) 

2.  Ore  from  La  Mina  Cangreja. 

Mineral  de  Santa  Lucia,  Tegucigalpa.  ) 

3.  Average  specimen  of  red  ore  from  the  Mina) 

Pena.  Villanueva.  ) 

4.  La  Mina  Encaitada.  Santa  Lucia. 

5.  Mina  de  San  Martin.  Santa  Lucia. 

6.  La  Mina  Grande.  Santa  Lucia. 

7.  Specimens  from  upper  or  northern  portion') 

of  the  vein  of  La  Mina  Grande.  > 

Santa  Lucia  (or  No.  1).  ) 

8.  Veta  Azul,  Gatal. 

The  samples  of  placer  gold  assayed  910  fine,  value  $18  81  per  ounce. 

Respectfully,  John  Hewston,  Jr., 

Practical  chemist,  and  late  melter  and  refiner  at  the  U.  S.  Branch  Mint, 
San  Francisco. 


41 

25 

35 

169 

26 

84 

13 


13 

61 

19 

1 

19 

18 


53  85 

32  75 

46  48 
218  58 
34  85 

108  77 

17  97 


THE  SILVER  MINES. 


527 


Robles , owned  by  the  Arjenal  family,  was  formerly  immensely 
productive,  but  is  not  worked  at  present.  La  Mina  de  Rivas , 
said  to  be  rich,  has  been  abandoned  for  want  of  capital.  El 
Corpus-,  an  ancient  mine,  whose  incredible  riches  caused  a doubt 
of  the  reality  of  the  metal,  is  believed  to  have  been  situated  in 
this  district.  The  ores  throughout  this  locality  yield  a small 
percentage  of  gold. 

La  Mineral  de  Cedros. — This  is  reputed  one  of  the  rich- 
est in  the  department.  It  is  situated  two  days’  journey  to  the 
northward  of  Tegucigalpa.  Its  ores  contain  silver  without  a 
mixture  of  any  other  metal.  Among  its  most  noted  mines  arc 
La  Veta  Azul , owned  by  the  heirs  of  Sefior  Gardela,  and  is  the 
subject  of  very  startling  representations;  La  Yeta  Dura , owned 
by  Mr.  Tregoning,  of  Cedros,  is  now  worked  with  moderate  suc- 
cess. 

La  Mineral  de  San  Antonio. — The  veins  in  this  district, 
like  those  of  El  Plomo,  are  flat,  horizontal  layers,  running  for 
the  most  part  from  north  to  south,  there  being  secondary  and 
tertiary  strata  of  ore  at  a distance  of  twelve  or  fifteen  yards 
apart.  The  district  is  small,  but  probably  offers  the  best  facil- 
ities for  foreign  enterprise.  The  ores  are  sulphurets  of  antimo- 
ny and  lead.  As  in  El  Plomo , they  have  hitherto  resisted  the 
efforts  of  the  natives  to  extract  the  silver  profitably,  a very  large 
percentage  of  the  metal  being  lost  in  the  smelting  process, 
against  which  the  limited  knowledge  of  chemistry  has  been  un- 
able to  provide.  None  of  the  methods  now  in  use.  it  is  believed, 
can  be  applied  economically  to  the  ore  from  these  mines.  The 
richest  of  these  mines  was  that  of  Mairena , named  after  its 
proprietor,  and  of  whom  there  yet  exist  extraordinary  legends. 
He  is  said  to  have  built  from  the  proceeds  of  this  mine  the 
church  at  San  Antonio,  one  of  the  most  costly  in  the  state.  It 
is  stated  that  the  ores  were  of  such  richness,  that  although,  by 
the  rude  methods  then  used  for  the  extraction  of  the  silver, 
one  third  was  lost,  the  opulent  proprietor  was  accustomed,  on 
dias  de  fiesta , to  throw  handfuls  of  silver  pieces  among  the 
crowd.  Los  Metalones , a celebrated  silver  mine,  owned  by  the 
Netruc  family,  is  now  only  sufficiently  wrought  to  retain  the  le- 
gal proprietory  right.  L,a  Mina  de  Confita  has  also  enjoyed 
a wide  celebrity.  This  “ mineral ” contains  above  thirty  mines, 


o2S 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


and,  though  less  than  a quarter  smaller  in  extent  than  any  other 
in  the  department,  is  counted  by  many  to  be  the  most  valuable.* 

A description  of  a “patio”  or  establishment  for  extracting 
silver  from  the  ore,  will  serve  to  illustrate  the  crude  methods 
pursued  by  the  natives.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind,  however, 
that  the  most  primitive  process  is  that  most  generally  used. 
The  establishment  of  Senor  Ferrari,  at  El  Chimbo,  is  regarded 
as  a wonder  of  ingenuity,  and  probably  the  most  extensive  and 
complicated  in  the  department,  excepting  that  of  Captain  Moore. 

The  “ maquina,”  or  mill,  at  El  Chimbo,  is  used  for  crushing 
and  grinding  the  ores,  as  an  improvement  on  the  ox-power  ma- 
chines, or  still  ruder  pounding  between  stones,  pursued  by  the 
poorer  classes.  The  works  are  carried  by  the  waters  of  the 
River  Chiquito,  rising  in  the  neighboring  mountains  of  San  Juan, 
and  discharging  into  the  River  Grande  at  the  bridge  of  Teguci- 
galpa. The  buildings,  four  in  number,  are  adobes  in  good  re- 
pair ; one,  forty  by  sixty,  being  used  as  a receptacle  or  store- 
house for  the  ores,  which  are  brought  by  mules  a distance  of 
live  miles,  from  the  mines  of  Santa  Lucia  ; another,  twenty  by 
sixteen,  covers  the  machinery ; a third,  twenty-four  by  eighteen, 
is  furnished  with  a series  of  ovens,  also  of  adobe,  in  which  the 
baking  or  smelting  process  is  performed  ; the  fourth,  which  has 
before  it  an  extensive  inclosure,  in  which  the  amalgamation  is 
conducted,  serves  as  a residence  for  the  overseer  and  workmen, 
and  has  attached  to  it  an  office  for  assaying  and  retorting,  and 
is  supplied  with  a variety  of  rude  appliances  for  smelting  and 
other  purposes. 

The  mill  consists  of  a large  horizontal  water-wheel,  carried  by 
a stream  let  into  it  by  means  of  a wooden  flume  or  spout.  This 
wheel  sets  in  motion  a perpendicular  shaft,  passing  through  its 
centre  into  a lower  apartment,  built  of  rough  masonry,  the  floor 

* Dunlop,  in  referring  to  the  silver  region,  of  which  the  city  of  Tegucigalpa  is 
the  centre,  says  : “ All  the  hills  in  the  neighborhood  possess  mines  of  gold  and 
silver,  the  two  metals  being  most  generally  mixed  together.  * * * The  natives 
of  Tegucigalpa  are  among  the  best  class  of  people  in  Central  America,  and  as, 
from  the  most  authentic  statements  I have  been  able  to  collect,  its  neighborhood 
would  appear  to  possess  natural  stores  of  the  precious  metals  even  exceeding 
those  of  the  celebrated  mines  of  Potosi,  in  Bolivia,  it  would  appear  a very  good 
speculation  for  a scientific  and  practical  miner,  supported  with  sufficient  capital, 
to  attempt  their  working  ; perhaps  the  best  adventure  now  to  be  found  in  Central 
America.” 


THE  SILVER  MINES. 


529 


forming  a circular  stone  trough,  into  which  the  ore,  which  has 
previously  been  pounded  by  hand  to  the  size  of  pebble-stones, 
is  thrown.  A certain  amount  of  water,  fed  from  the  stream 
above,  is  preserved  in  this  circular  receptacle,  around  which,  at- 
tached by  chains  to  a horizontal  bar  passing  through  the  shaft, 
two  rocks,  weighing  half  a ton  each,  are  constantly  dragged  by 
the  power  communicated  from  the  wheel : the  friction  of  these 
rocks  gradually  reduces  the  ore  to  a paste.  About  two  tons 
can  be  thus  crushed  in  a day  ; but,  owing  to  the  slow  motions 
of  the  miners  at  Gatal  and  San  Martin,  only  half  that  amount  is 
worked.  There  are  also  several  styles  of  still  ruder  machines. 

As  the  ore  becomes  thoroughly  pulverized  and  mixed,  it 
passes  through  a series  of  sieves,  and  discharges  by  a wooden 
spout  into  a large  vat,  or  stone  dock  of  masonry,  capable  of 
holding  three  thousand  gallons.  When  this  becomes  filled  with 
the  liquid  paste  from  the  mill,  it  is  allowed  to  settle,  and  the  water 
slowly  drawn  off  by  stoppers.  The  ore  is  then  made  into  heaps 
or  cakes  called  montones , of  about  one  cwt.  each,  and  mixed 
with  salt,  as  it  is  said,  to  facilitate  the  amalgamation,  but  prob- 
ably to  detach  the  sulphur.  At  certain  indications  this  is  placed 
in  troughs,  and  stamped  and  kneaded  with  quicksilver  until  the 
amalgamation  is  supposed  to  be  complete.  The  whole  is  then 
submitted  to  the  baking  or  retorting  process.  I was  informed 
by  the  proprietor  that  the  weight  of  pure  silver  thus  extracted 
was  found  to  be  exactly  that  of  the  quicksilver  lost  in  the  oper- 
ation. This  has  the  local  name  of  “ El  Patio ,”  from  the  ore  be- 
ing prepared  in  the  large  level  yard  or  inclosure  thus  named. 

Another  method  is  that  of  the  barrel,  common  in  Germany, 
and  doubtless  the  most  economical  and  efficient  known.  The 
machinery  for  this  is  in  good  repair  at  El  Chimbo,  but  total  ig- 
norance of  the  process,  and  an  idea  that  more  quicksilver  is  thus 
wasted,  has  caused  it  to  be  disused.  It  is  known  as  uLos  Bar- 
illas” “ El  Fundicion ,”  or  the  smelting,  is  the  commonest 
method.  The  small  pieces  of  ore,  in  its  native  state,  are  thrown 
into  the  heated  ovens  from  an  aperture  at  the  top.  The  silver 
separates  itself  from  the  lead,  of  which  the  ore  contains  a consid- 
erable percentage,  and  forms  itself  in  a mass  at  the  bottom  of  the 
oven.  This  is  the  most  frequently  used  with  those  ores  contain- 
ing lead  and  silver.  '■'■El  Quemar ,”  which  is  here  known  as  a 

Ll 


530 


EXPL ORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


distinct  process,  differs  little  from  the  above.  The  ore  is  re- 
duced to  a state  of  fusion,  and  all  foreign  substances  skimmed 
off  with  long-handled  ladles,  an  operation  demanding  great  skill, 
and  only  performed  by  the  most  experienced  hands.  There  is 
still  another  method,  which  is  called  “ El  Bano ,”  the  bath,  which 
not  having  witnessed,  I am  unable  to  describe. 

Quicksilver  has  been  principally  brought  from  Europe  in 
German  and  English  vessels  to  La  Union,  and,  though  exempt 
from  duty  in  most  of  the  states,  commands  an  exorbitant  price. 
Small  quantities  are  now  reaching  Central  America  from  Cali- 
fornia. It  is  not  difficult  to  perceive  that  very  meagre  returns 
should  be  realized  from  these  crude  methods  of  extracting  sil- 
ver. A very  large  percentage  is  wasted  or  lost  by  ignorance  of 
the  proper  modeg,  while  the  lethargy  of  the  people  prevents  the 
speedier  development  of  the  mines.  To  have  acquired  and  to 
possess  a good  estate  is  the  fortune  of  the  Spaniard  and  of  his 
descendants  ; not  to  know  hotj’  to  draw  from  it  a good  revenue 
is  his  fault  and  his  evil  destiny.  There  is  not  a department  in 
Honduras  that  does  not  contain  numbers  of  rich  silver  mines, 
and  those  that  have  been  legally  claimed  or  “denounced” 
amount  in  the  aggregate  to  thousands.  The  new  mine  of 
Coloal,  in  the  Department  of  Gracias,  has  yielded  treasures  al- 
most equaling  the  early  days  of  the  Spaniards,  when  multitudes 
of  Indian  slaves  extracted,  under  the  crudest  tortures,  the  treas- 
ures which  are  now  only  drowsily  sought  by  their  degenerate 
descendants.  Honduras  may  be  truly  termed  a store-house  of 
silver.  Its  hills  teem  with  mines,  which  require  but  the  hand 
of  industry  to  develop  their  hidden  riches. 

The  Gold  Placees  of  Olancho  and  Yoeo. — The  extent 
and  availability  of  the  gold-quartz  veins  and  placers  of  Eastern 
Honduras  I have  already  considered  at  length.  It  is  impossi- 
ble to  pass  through  the  state  without  being  constantly  remind- 
ed of  the  gold  regions  of  Olancho.  The  Spanish  historians 
knew  of  the  Guayape  as  early  as  1524.  It  was  among  the  ear- 
liest portions  of  the  interior  continent  explored  by  the  conquer- 
ors. Herrera  and  Bernal  Diaz  refer  particularly  to  its  golden 
treasures.*  Juarros  notes  Olancho  as  “ memorable  for  the  im- 

* “A  spacious  plain  called  Ulancho,  ill  seated  near  the  River  Guayape,  whence 
much  gold  has  been  taken.” — Herrera,  book  iv.,  c.  iv. 


THE  GOLD  REGION. 


531 


mense  riches  that  have  been  collected  from  the  River  Guayape, 
that  flows  through  it ; and  even  now  (he  writes  in  1809)  the 
finest  gold  produced  in  the  kingdom  is  to  be  found  in  its  sands.” 
He  further  adds  : “ Honduras  contains  more  gold  and  silver 
mines  than  all  the  rest  of  the  kingdom  of  Guatemala.” 

Conder  refers  to  the  gold  of  the  Guayape  in  his  history  of 
Guatemala;  Dunn  alludes  to  Olancho,  “famous  for  the  quanti- 
ty of  fine  gold  which  is  said  to  have  been  collected  in  the  sands 
of  the  River  Guayape  in  its  course  through  the  valley  ;”  Byam 
devotes  several  pages  to  a description  of  the  placer  washings  of 
this  part  of  Central  America;  Dunlop  tells  us  (page  281)  that 
pieces  of  gold  weighing  as  much  as  five  or  six  pounds  have  oc- 
casionally been  found ; Squier  does  not  hesitate  to  compare  the 
gold  washings  of  Olancho  and  Yoro  with  those  of  California; 
later  visitors  have  brought  away  with  them  the  glittering  tokens 
of  its  wealth,  and  preparations  are  now  being  made  to  subject 
the  mines  to  the  test  of  machinery.  The  second  annual  mes- 
sage of  President  Arce  to  the  Federal  Legislature,  in  1826,  makes 
mention  of  an  English  company  who  had  applied  for  the  privi- 
lege of  mining  on  the  Guayape.  The  object  of  the  English 
settlements  at  Black  River  has  been  traced  in  Olancho  to  the 
vague  accounts  circulated  of  the  existence  of  a gold  region  in  the 
far  interior.  Pamphlets  and  newspaper  articles  have  occasion- 
ally appeared  in  Central  America  on  the  subject,  and  native 
companies  have  more  than  once  been  formed,  but  without  prac- 
tical experiment,  to  work  the  Olancho  mines. 

Other  sources  could  be  quoted  to  show  the  antiquity  of  the 
gold  discoveries  in  this  region.  For  more  than  three  centuries 
the  Guayape  and  its  tributaries  have  yielded  their  annual  treas- 
ures to  the  gold-seekers  of  successive  generations ; and  that  the 
aborigines  had  long  known  the  uses  of  gold  may  be  inferred 
from  the  ornaments  worn  by  the  natives  of  Honduras  when  Co- 
lumbus first  visited  its  shores.  It  may  be  supposed  that  these 
ornaments  were  taken  with  little  labor  from  the  surface,  as  was 
done  in  the  earlier  days  of  California.  The  more  modern  oper- 
ations have  been  mainly  confined  to  delving  in  the  sand  with 
sticks  by  a simple  and  ignorant  Indian  population.  What  may 

“ Much  gold  has  been  drawn  out  of  the  River  Guayape,  that  flows  through  its 
territory  (Olancho).” — Herrera , book  vi.,  c.  i. 


532 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


be  contained  in  the  depths  below,  or  would  result  from  a sys- 
tematic mining  organization,  is  yet  conjectural. 

I have  endeavored  to  establish  the  fact  that  gold  mines  of 
real  value  exist ; that  they  are  easily  accessible  from  the  United 
States  ; that,  with  proper  machinery,  in  the  hands  of  energetic 
men,  they  can  be  profitably  wrought,  and  that  the  climate  is 
such  as  will  admit  of  foreigners  laboring  in  the  interior  of  Olan- 
cho.  If  it  is  to  be  believed  that  Americans  will  locate  where 
gold  is  to  be  had  for  a reasonable  equivalent  of  work,  the  natu- 
ral price  of  all  real  success,  there  seems  little  doubt  of  the  future 
importance  of  Honduras  to  the  world. 

But  the  auriferous  deposits  of  Honduras,  though  centring  in 
the  Guayape  district,  are  not  confined  to  that  locality.  Early 
in  1856,  companies  of  Americans  started  for  Olancho  from  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  United  States.  Among  these  was  an  associa- 
tion sailing  from  Mobile,  known  as  the  “Honduras  Colonization 
Society,”  whose  objects  were  permanent  settlement  in  the  gold 
region  of  the  Guayape.  They  landed  in  May  at  Truxillo,  and 
proceeded  toward  the  interior. 

A merchant  of  Truxillo,  writing  from  that  place,  speaks  of 
the  arrival  of  this  party  and  their  departure  for  the  interior, 
and  forwards  a letter  from  the  secretary  of  the  company  dated 
July  1st.  “ Three  of  our  party,”  says  the  writer,  “went  up  the 
coast  about  thirty  miles,  and  returned  on  the  20th  ultimo,  bring- 
ing some  very  fine  gold,  which  they  washed  out  themselves  from 
earth  taken  from  the  surface,  which,  they  say,  yields  from  five  to 
fifteen  cents  to  the  pan,  but  do  not  consider  it  worth  our  while 
to  locate  there,  as  we  had  made  our  calculations  for  Olancho, 
where  we  expect  to  do  better.  The  natives  are  getting  excited 
on  the  subject  of  gold  hunting,  and  are  now  flocking  to  the  place 
of  which  I have  just  spoken,  known  as  the  Bio  Lucinda.  I hear 
that  several  specimens  have  been  taken  out  weighing  from  one 
to  two  ounces,  but  to  what  extent  the  precious  metal  abounds 
we  have  not  yet  been  advised.” 

The  river  referred  to  is  doubtless  the  Papaloteca,  discharging 
into  the  Caribbean  Sea  opposite  the  island  of  Buatan.  A cor- 
respondent from  Balize,  under  the  date  of  July  12th  of  the  same 
year,  describes  this  gold  as  of  a “ very  fine  quality,  similar  to 
that  found  in  the  southern  mines  of  California,  commonly  called 


THE  GOLD  KEGION. 


533 


shot  gold ; pieces  weighing  an  ounce  and  upward  have  been 
taken  out,  and  all  who  work  there  are  doing  well.  The  labor 
is  done  in  the  rudest  way,  without  the  aid  of  art,  wit,  or  sci- 
ence ; yet  the  old  women  here  are  averaging  one  dollar  a day, 
while  some  of  the  men  are  earning  from  eight  to  eighteen  dol- 
lars daily.” 

Still  another  correspondent  from  Truxillo  adds  his  testimony 
to  the  discoveries  made  by  the  prying  ingenuity  of  foreign  explor- 
ers. This  writer  says,  “That  great  metallic  enchanter  is  being 
found  in  new  places,  easy  of  access  and  near  the  coast.  About  fif- 
teen leagues  west  of  us,  in  the  direction  of  Omoa,  there  have  been 
discovered  leads  of  gold,  loose  and  in  quartz,  in  such  abundance 
that  several  persons,  without  other  materials  than  hammers  and 
basins,  have  averaged  two  ounces  a day.  The  gold  is  found  in 
a mountain  ridge,  running  parallel  to  the  coast  and  in  view,  fill- 
ing the  beds  and  ledges  of  several  streams  which  flow  to  the  sea. 
It  must  soon  be  denominated  the  gold  coast  of  Honduras.” 

These  gold  deposits  were  passed  subsequently  by  Dr.  J.  C. 
Tucker,  United  States  Commercial  Agent  to  Honduras,  on  his 
return  from  Comayagua.  The  Papaloteca,  he  informs  me,  is  not 
navigable,  having  a shallow  bar,  and  the  inland  navigation  being 
obstructed  with  rocky  barriers.  A number  of  Carib  women 
and  negroes  were  engaged  in  working  the  mines,  using  the 
rudest  materials.  Some  of  them  were  meeting  with  surprising 
good  fortune.  None  who  worked  made  less  than  four  dollars  a 
day,  and  several  had  dug  from  two  to  four  ounces  daily.  The 
gold  was  coarse,  exceedingly  pure,  and  doubtless  of  a similar 
quality  with  that  assayed  for  me  in  San  Francisco  by  Dr.  Hews- 
ton,  which  proved  910  fine,  equal  to  $18.81  per  ounce. 

From  these  facts  it  may  be  deduced  that  not  only  the  valley 
of  the  Guayape  and  adjacent  rivers  contain  gold,  but  the  entire 
eastern  and  northern  slopes  of  the  Cordilleras,  and  the  streams 
having  their  source  in  these  mountains,  are  gold-bearing,  and 
capable  of  greatly  augmenting  the  golden  current  which  for  ten 
years  has  been  pouring  from  California  into  the  United  States. 
But,  for  reasons  elsewhere  explained,  it  appears  that  the  same 
race  which  has  neglected  these  precious  gifts  of  nature  for  the 
more  congenial  task  of  self-destruction,  will  continue  to  pass 
heedlessly  over  them  until,  under  some  such  policy  as  was  ad- 


534 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


vocated  in  1854  by  the  far-seeing  Barrundia,  a more  thrifty  and 
industrious  people  shall  lead  the  way  to  their  development. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  facts  connected  with  the  gradual 
development  of  the  gold  mines  of  California  is  the  inventive  gen- 
ius which  has  been  called  into  action  in  the  construction  of  min- 
ing machinery.  The  great  majority  of  these  have  proved  utter 
failures,  owing  to  their  inapplicability  to  the  purposes  intended. 
A collection  of  them  would  form  a museum  of  intricate  sifters, 
wheels,  and  ponderous  iron  work.  Years  of  experiment  have 
shown  that  the  simplest  form  of  gold  mining  machinery,  based 
upon  scientific  principles,  is  the  most  economical  and  enduring. 
From  the  common  “prospecting”  pan  through  the  grades  of 
“rocker”  and  “long-Tom,”  the  placer  miner  has  at  last  settled 
permanently  upon  the  admirable  method  combining  all  the  ad- 
vantages of  the  others,  and  known  as  “hydraulic”  or  “hill 
mining,”  a process  commenced  within  four  years,  and  which, 
with  its  system  of  canals  interlacing  the  gold  region,  employs  a 
majority  of  the  entire  mining  population  of  the  state.  This 
method  could  doubtless  be  introduced  with  success  into  Olan- 
cho,  where  the  fineness  of  the  gold,  ill  adapted  to  the  pan  or 
rocker,  and  resembling  that  of  the  South  Yuba  gold  region  of 
California,  could  be  made  highly  remunerative  if  worked  with 
American  energy. 

Though  large  nuggets  have  been  found  in  Olancho  within  a 
few  years,  the  gold,  which  is  pretty  evenly  distributed  along 
the  river  bottoms,  is  generally  extremely  fine,  except  where  ed- 
dies in  the  rivers  have  collected  coarser  grains  in  the  crevices 
of  the  rocks.  For  this  reason  I should  discourage  American 
miners  from  depending  solely  upon  the  rocker,  by  which  the 
quantity  of  earth  to  be  washed  being  limited,  the  average  re- 
turns would  probably  not  equal  those  of  ordinary  placers  in 
California.  The  “ hydraulic  mining”  is  the  best,  and  perhaps 
the  only  reliable  method  for  Honduras. 

The  similarity  between  the  topography  of  Olancho  and  many 
parts  of  California,  the  remarkable  uniformity  of  the  gold  depos- 
its throughout  the  bottoms  and  river  beds,  the  quality  of  the 
gold,  the  salubrity  of  the  climate,  and  particularly  the  abund- 
ance of  available  mountain  streams,  seem  to  point  out  Olancho 
as  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  successful  operation  of  hydraulic 


THE  GOLD  REGION. 


535 


mining.  Whether  the  returns  would  at  all  equal  those  realized 
from  the  mines  of  California  the  future  must  decide.  From  my 
own  observation,  and  the  facts  I was  able  to  obtain  from  others, 
there  appears  no  reason  why  a systematic  mining,  pursued  on 
the  plans  above  referred  to,  should  not  yield  remunerative  re- 
turns. 

Spanish- America  contains  many  “_£7  Dorados ” awaiting  the 
advent  of  adventurous  miners.  Olancho  is  no  isolated  instance. 
Bolivia  boasts  its  Matto  Grosso,  Peru  its  Napo,  Guatemala  its 
Polochic  River,  and  New  Granada  its  Antioquia,  but  in  none  of 
these  are  such  facilities  presented  for  foreign  enterprise  as  in 
Honduras.  Gardiner’s  and  other  crushers  could  be  advantage- 
ously used  in  many  of  the  auriferous  quartz  veins  in  Olancho 
and  Segovia,  where  the  arrastre  or  trapiche,  the  rudest  of  min- 
ing machinery,  is  now  used  with  limited  success. 

While  at  Tegucigalpa  I was  presented  with  a little  book, 
written  by  Senor  Jacobo  Bemadis,  of  Truxillo,  entitled  “Golpe 
de  Yista  sobre  Honduras  : considerado  en  sus  relaciones  Fisicas 
y Geograficas,  seguido  de  un  comunicado,  sobre  la  riqueza  de 
Olancho  y Yoro.”  In  relation  to  these  two  departments,  the 
author  says  : “ The  rivers  Guayape  and  Jalan,  passing  through 
numerous  placers,  carry  with  them  an  abundant  golden  treas- 
ure. These  two  rivers  unite  in  the  vicinity  of  Jutecalpa,  the 
capital  of  Olancho,  and,  following  a tortuous  course,  receiving 
several  tributary  streams,  discharge  on  the  north  coast  of  Hon- 
duras, where  the  river  assumes  the  name  of  Patook  or  Patuka. 
The  bar  of  the  Patook  has  from  three  to  five  feet  of  water  in 
the  summer,  and  from  nine  to  eleven  in  the  winter.  From  this 
point  up  to  its  confluence  with  the  Wampu  it  has  from  four  to 
five,  and  thence  passing  certain  rapids,  denominated  ‘ chiflones ,’ 
owing  to  the  rocks  skirting  their  banks,  there  are  found  from 
four  to  four  and  a half  feet  up  to  its  junction  with  the  Guayam- 
bre.  Leaving  this  to  the  left,  it  may  be  navigated  with  three 
and  a half  and  four  feet  as  far  as  the  confluence  of  the  Guayape 
and  Jalan,  without  the  slightest  risk  or  obstacle,  to  within  one 
league  of  Jutecalpa.  Following  the  course  of  the  Guayape,  it 
may  be  navigated  with  a depth  of  three  and  three  and  a half  feet 
to  the  point  or  place  known  as  Aleman.  Thence  up  to  its  head- 
waters are  found  gold  placers,  known  there  as  pintas , as  distin- 


536 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


guished  from  ‘ vetas ,’  or  veins,  which  are  found  at  all  points 
with  very  little  trouble.  But  the  greater  part  of  these  placers 
have  remained  unexplored,  as  they  require  a more  industrious 
and  intelligent  population  to  develop  them,  as  well  as  to  organ- 
ize formal  enterprises,  such  as  Hondurenos  by  themselves  are 
incapable  of  doing. 

“Leaving  Jutecalpa  in  a north  and  northeast  direction,  and 
crossing  the  department  toward  Yocon,  in  a territory  equal  to 
thirty  leagues  of  longitude  by  ten  of  latitude,  there  is  not  a riv- 
ulet, however  insignificant,  that  does  not  contain  gold  in  its  bed 
or  banks.  Most  of  these,  guided  by  the  formation  of  the  sier- 
ras, discharge  into  the  Guayape  and  Jalan ; and  others,  includ- 
ing the  Silaca  and  Mangulile,  into  the  Mirajoco,  which  thence, 
taking  the  name  of  Yaguale,  and  fertilizing  part  of  the  valley  of 
Olanchito,  empties  into  the  picturesque  Homan  or  Aguan,  which 
falls  into  the  Caribbean  Sea  sixteen  miles  east  of  Truxillo.  The 
larger  rivers  receive  their  deposits  of  gold  from  the  sudden  fresh- 
ets in  the  mountain  tributaries,  fed  by  the  canons  and  stream- 
lets above.  The  gold  of  the  rivers  Guayape,  Jalan,  Mangulile, 
Sulaco,  Caimito,  Pacaya,  and  Yaguale,  is  well  known,  and  that 
of  the  two  first  and  two  last  mentioned  may  be  considered  of 
the  very  finest  quality  ( chase  coronario).” 

The  above  extract  is  an  evidence  that  the  people  of  Hondu- 
ras are  aware  of  the  treasures  concealed  in  their  soil,  though  in- 
capable of  turning  them  to  practical  account.  This  ceases  to 
excite  surprise  when  we  remember  that  the  same  race  inhabit- 
ing California  many  years  previous  to  the  American  conquest 
remained  in  apathetic  ignorance  of  the  gold  deposits  of  their 
country. 

Copper,  Iron,  Antimony,  Cinnabar.  — The  baser  metals 
abound  in  various  parts  of  Honduras.  Copper  is  found  in 
large  and  inexhaustible  veins,  and  often  in  a state  of  extreme 
purity.  The  hill  of  El  Chimbo,  near  Tegucigalpa,  has  been  al- 
ready described.  Copper  is  found  quite  to  the  northern  coast 
of  Yoro,  whence  some  very  rich  specimens  of  ore  have  been  re- 
cently sent  me,  taken,  as  I was  informed,  from  the  vicinity  of 
Truxillo.  These  are  similar  to  the  specimens  sent  from  Cuba 
to  the  United  States  for  smelting.  The  ores  seen  by  By  am  are 
described  as  almost  always  combined  with  sulphur,  or  any  oth- 


PRECIOUS  STONES. 


537 


er  combination  that  requires  calcining  to  be  got  rid  of.  “They 
might  well  be  smelted  in  a common  blast  furnace,  with  the  aid 
of  equal  quantities  of  iron-stone,  which  lies  in  large  quantities 
on  the  surface  of  all  the  hilly  country.  This  is  the  common 
method  used  in  Chili  for  this  species  of  copper  ore.  The  cop- 
per produced  is  remarkably  pure  and  malleable;  it  is  called 
“ cobre  de  labr adores ,”  or  workmen’s  copper.  It  never  requires 
turning  when  made  into  pots  and  pans  for  all  sorts  of  cooking. 
The  copper  ores  are  what  the  Spanish  miners  call  “ metal  de 
color ,”  metal  being  the  term  they  use  for  ore,  and  are  mostly 
red  and  blue  oxydes  and  green  carbonates,  with  now  and  then 
the  brown  and  pigeon-breasted.  They  cut  easily  and  smoothly 
with  the  knife,  and  yield  from  twenty-five  to  sixty  per  cent.” 
Very  valuable  and  extensive  mines  of  iron  exist  in  the  De- 
partment of  Tegucigalpa.  The  ore  is  so  pure  and  abundant  that 
it  is  said  to  exhibit  in  one  place,  where  the  bed,  outcropping,  is 
crossed  by  a mule-path,  a surface  of  bright  iron.  The  attempts 
that  have  been  made  to  work  these  mines  are  so  insignificant  as 
scarcely  to  merit  notice.  Antimony,  tin,  and  zinc  mines  are 
also  found,  but  have  never  yet  been  worked.  The  same  may 
be  said  of  cinnabar,  mines  of  which  are  known  in  the  Depart- 
ments of  Comayagua  and  Gracias,  some  of  which  are  said  to 
have  been  secretly  worked  by  foreigners  with  great  success. 
Senor  Cacho,  Minister  of  Hacienda,  informed  me  by  letter  of  the 
existence  of  valuable  cinnabar  mines,  in  working  which  he  was 
anxious  to  engage  foreign  labor. 

Precious  Stones. — Gems  and  precious  stones  are  among 
the  treasures  offered  by  Honduras  to  the  industry  of  the  world. 
Of  these  I can  only  speak  of  the  opal,  of  which  latterly  some 
rare  specimens  have  been  brought  from  the  Department  of  Gra- 
cias. The  error  should  here  be  corrected  as  to  the  quality  of 
these  stones.  In  most  instances  they  have  been  pronounced, 
upon  close  examination,  to  be  the  “ hard,”  or  noble  opal,  and  in 
that  respect  entirely  different  from  the  “ soft,”  or  Mexican  opal, 
also  known  as  the  “Panama  stone.” 

A distinguished  lapidary  informs  me  that  the  soft  opal  may  be 
detected  by  immersion  in  warm  water  causing  the  colors  to  dis- 
appear for  several  hours,  when  they  will  again  return.  Several 
from  Honduras  have  been  submitted  to  this  test,  without  loss 


538 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


of  color  or  brilliancy.  Nearly  a hundred  were  obtained  by  Mr. 
A.  Marie,  of  New  York,  in  Gracias,  some  years  since.  Some  of 
these  were  extremely  beautiful,  and  of  extraordinary  size.  He 
describes  the  method  pursued  by  the  Indians  in  extracting  the 
opals  as  rude  and  careless,  the  common  pick  and  a heavy  ham- 
mer alone  being  used.  They  occur  in  calcareous  and  lime- 
stone beds,  and  in  small  gangs  and  nests  of  the  volcanic  por- 
phyry formation.  It  is  stated  by  Mr.  Squier  that  some  of  the 
largest  and  most  beautiful  stones  have  suffered  at  the  hands  of 
the  Indians,  who  estimate  their  value  rather  from  their  numbers 
than  their  size,  and  consequently  break  them  in  small  pieces.* 

In  the  rough,  the  stone  has  a dull  whitish  appearance,  and 
only  reveals  its  concealed  lustre  under  the  hands  of  the  lapida- 
ry: their  value  is  scarcely  yet  appreciated  in  Honduras.  In 
Tegucigalpa  I saw  a large  opal  set  in  silver,  worn  by  a native, 
which,  though  not  highly  prized  by  its  owner,  must  have  been 
worth  not  far  from  $1000. 

On  making  inquiries  in  the  town  for  opals,  I was  told  that  an 
old  lady  of  Tegucigalpa  had  a collection,  which  she  had  owned 
for  several  years,  and  was  willing  to  dispose  of.  She  readily 
parted  with  the  lot — about  twenty — for  five  silver  dollars,  and, 
supposing  them  to  be  of  little  value,  except  as  adding  to  my 
collection,  they  were  forgotten  until  my  return  to  California, 
when  a German  lapidary  pronounced  them  precious  opals,  some 
of  them  of  considerable  value.  The  largest  has  since  been  val- 
ued by  competent  judges  at  $500,  and  the  smaller  ones  were 
scarcely  less  beautiful.  The  incident  is  mentioned  as  showing 
the  slight  value  which  is  often  set  upon  opals  in  Honduras. 
They  are  confined  to  the  single  Department  of  Gracias,  on  the 
Guatemalan  frontier : some  emit  blue  and  red  scintillations ; 
others  blend  their  colors  with  purple  and  yellow,  and  others  ex- 
hibit a mixture  of  green  and  yellow,  with  fiery  flashes. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  no  scientific  exploration  of  the 
opal  region  of  Honduras  has  ever  been  made.  In  1829,  Thomp- 
son, in  his  report,  designated  precious  stones  as  among  the  most 
valuable  exports  of  the  Department  of  Gracias,  f Mr.  Squier 
states  that  amethysts  are  reported  to  have  been  found  in  Gra- 

* Notes  on  Central  America,  p.  168. 

f Mawe,  in  his  Treatise  on  Diamonds,  describes  the  varieties  of  the  precious 


PRECIOUS  STONES. 


539 


cias.  That  asbestos  exists  in  Olancho  there  is  every  reason  to 
beheve. 

Coal  is  found  in  the  western  part  of  the  state,  and  on  the  Pa- 
cific coast  within  a short  distance  of  the  Bay  of  Fonseca.  The’ 
mines  occur  principally  in  the  Departments  of  Comayagua  and 
Oholuteca.  The  specimens  shown  me  in  Nacaome  were  of  an 
inferior,  if  not  worthless  quality,  but  were  probably  not  fan- 
samples  of  the  mine  whence  they  were  taken. 

Pearls  are  said  to  have  been  found  in  the  Bay  of  F onseca,  but 
no  specimens  came  to  my  notice  while  I was  in  Central  Ameri- 
ca. As  their  presence  is  dependent  upon  the  existence  of  oys- 
ters, there  is  no  reason  why  that  bay  should  not  produce  them, 
shell-fish  being  found  in  exhaustless  quantities  there.  North- 
ward, in  the  Gulf  of  California  and  in  that  of  Nicoya,  in  Costa 
Rica,  the  pearl-fishery  has  been  prosecuted  with  success.  Fon- 
seca Bay  is  equally  a great  inlet  from  the  sea,  and  would  doubt- 
less equally  well  reward  the  efforts  of  the  pearl-fisher. 

opal,  of  which  class  those  of  Gracias  are  now  believed  to  be,  as  “ white  or  pearly 
gray.  When  held  between  the  eye  and  the  light,  it  is  pale  red  or  wine-yellow, 
with  a milky  translucency.  By  reflected  light  it  exhibits,  as  its  position  is  va- 
ried, elegant  and  most  beautiful  iridescent  colors,  particularly  emerald  green, 
golden  yellow,  flame  and  fire  red,  violet,  purple,  and  celestial  blue,  so  beautifully 
blended  and  so  fascinating  as  to  captivate  the  admirer.  When  the  color  is  ar- 
ranged in  small  spangles  it  takes  the  name  of  the  harlequin  opal.  Sometimes  it 
exhibits  only  one  of  the  above  colors,  and  of  these  the  most  esteemed  are  the 
vivid  emerald  green  and  the  orange  yellow.  When  the  stone  possesses  the  latter 
of  these  colors  it  is  called  the  golden  opal.  *******  precious  opal  is 

generally  small,  rarely  so  large  as  an  almond  or  a hazel-nut,  though  I have  seen 
some  specimens  the  size  of  a walnut,  for  which  several  hundred  pounds  were  de- 
manded.” 


540 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 

Climate  of  the  Interior. — Of  the  Coasts.  — Diseases. — Public  Instruction. — 
Amusements. — Religion. — Aboriginal  Remains. — Ancient  and  present  Popu- 
lation.— Government. — Political  Divisions. 

Although  the  sea-coasts  of  Central  America  have  become 
proverbial  for  their  insalubrity,  it  may  be  fairly  claimed  for  the 
uplands  of  the  interior,  from  Costa  Rica  to  the  plateaus  of  Mex- 
ico, that  no  portion  of  the  world  offers  a more  genial  or  equable 
temperature.  Nature,  as  if  unsatisfied  with  her  lavish  gifts  in 
other  respects,  has  dispensed  to  inland  Honduras  a climate  not 
excelled  by  the  most  delightful  regions  of  California.  For  the 
greater  part  of  the  year  the  mercury  ranges  between  69°  and 
85°  Fahrenheit,  the  changes  of  the  seasons  so  gradually  order- 
ed that  the  transitions  from  winter  to  summer,  consisting  in  an 
alternation  of  dry  and  showery  weather,  is  scarcely  perceptible, 
and  attended  with  few  or  none  of  the  effects  noticeable  in  the 
temperate  zones. 

The  four  seasons  are  thus  simplified  into  two,  the  rainy  and 
dry.  The  former,  announced  by  unfrequent  gusts  of  rain  and 
heavy  clouds,  commences  about  the  first  of  May,  and  continues 
until  the  middle  of  November.  It  should  not  be  understood, 
however,  by  the  term  “ rainy  season,”  a constant  fall  of  rain,  the 
change  of  season  in  this  respect  being  somewhat  similar  to  that 
of  California.  The  wet  months  of  Central  America  are  in  real- 
ity the  pleasantest,  not  only  from  the  verdant  aspect  of  nature, 
whose  wooded  and  floral  beauties  are  developed  by  the  rains, 
but  from  the  peculiarly  bracing  atmosphere  experienced  in  the 
mountain  districts  at  that  time. 

Throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  Central  American  isthmus 
the  dry  season  is  an  uninterrupted  drought,  only  relieved  by 
slight  showers  at  long  intervals.  Olancho  and  the  interior  of 
Eastern  Honduras  is,  however,  an  exception  to  this  rule.  The 
season  there  commences,  as  usual,  in  November,  but  for  geo- 
graphical reasons  and  the  topography  of  the  country,  rain  falls 


CLIMATE  OF  THE  INTERIOR. 


541 


at  intervals  until  the  middle  of  March.  One  of  the  heaviest 
thunder-storms  I saw  in  Central  America  occurred  on  the  13th 
of  February,  1855.  The  rains  come  up  with  a southerly  and 
easterly  wind,  and  generally  fall  in  the  afternoon,  though  in  the 
wet  months  proper  the  mountain  storms  sometimes  rage  with 
great  violence  all  night. 

The  “ chubasco”  or  afternoon  squall,  may  be  depended  on 
during  the  rainy  season.  The  double-headed  clouds  heralding 
its  approach  are  unmistakable,  whether  in  the  interior,  marshal- 
ing with  lowering  front  along  the  rugged  peaks  of  the  Cordille- 
ras, or  on  the  coast,  rolling  up  from  seaward,  glimmering  with 
lightning,  and  muttering  distant  thunder.  In  the  winter  these 
storms  burst  upon  the  traveler  unannounced,  and  in  an  incred- 
ibly short  time  swell  the  mountain  streams  into  impassable 
torrents,  as  quickly  subsiding  with  the  passing  of  the  tempest. 
These  are  succeeded  by  intervals  of  warm  sunshine,  imparting 
a freshness  to  the  landscape,  which,  in  its  smooth,  undulating 
character  and  sober  woodlands,  often  recalls  the  finest  portions 
of  New  England  scenery,  with  the  soft  but  invigorating  climate 
of  Jalapa,  Puebla,  or  the  city  of  Mexico. 

There  is  scarcely  any  season  on  the  Caribbean  coast  when 
the  climate  is  uncomfortably  cool  except  during  the  violent 
norths,  when  the  mercury  has  been  known  to  descend  to  60° 
Fahrenheit;  but  in  the  mountains,  the  weather  is  often  so  cold, 
from  December  to  February  inclusive,  that  fires  are  necessary 
for  comfort ; hail-storms,  one  of  which  I have  elsewhere  al- 
luded to,  are  recorded,  and  in  Salto,  Santa  Lucia,  Cerro  de  Ule, 
Nueva  Arcadia,  and  particularly  in  the  elevated  districts  of  Gra- 
cias, the  cold  is  such  that  many  of  the  inhabitants  descend  to 
the  valleys  until  the  return  of  more  genial  weather.  In  Tegu- 
cigalpa, at  an  elevation  considerably  over  three  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  the  thermometer  ranges  from  56°  to  70°  in  the 
morning,  from  72°  to  80°  at  noon,  and  from  70°  to  78°  in  the 
evening,  from  November  to  March  inclusive.  This  shows  an 
evenness  of  temperature  leaving  little  to  be  desired.  At  Jute- 
calpa,  during  the  winter  months,  I found  the  climate  to  differ 
but  slightly  from  that  of  Tegucigalpa,  notwithstanding  its  lesser 
altitude. 

A thermometrical  table,  kept  during  my  journey,  shows  the 


542 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


range  of  the  mercury  from  the  summer  of  1854  to  the  spring  of 
1855.  It  exhibits  a difference  of  temperature  between  the  coasts 
and  the  uplands  of  the  interior  as  marked  as  that  existing  be- 
tween the  temperate  and  torrid  zones.  During  the  period  passed 
in  the  interior  of  the  country,  the  lowest  mark  of  the  thermom- 
eter was  52°,  and  the  highest  88°  of  Fahrenheit.  The  results 
of  this  table  would  be  here  given  in  full  but  that  the  constant 
change  of  position  and  elevation  while  in  the  table-lands  pre- 
vented a consecutive  number  of  observations  sufficient  to  estab- 
lish a basis  of  temperature.*  I may  add,  however,  that  in  the 


* The  following  are  extracts  from  a meteorological  table  kept  during  my 
first  visit  in  Tegucigalpa  : 


Date. 

Sunrise. 

Noon. 

Sunset. 

Observations. 

1854. 

o 

Oct.  18 

64 

75 

70 

The  winds  during  the  latter  part  of  October 

19 

65 

76 

72 

were  principally  from  the  N.N.E.  and  E. 

20 

64 

76 

72 

Heavy  afternoon  and  evening  storms,  with 
thunder  and  lightning.  Interludes  of 

21 

66 

76 

72 

22 

64 

75 

73 

clear,  bracing  weather  and  light  winds. 

23 

65 

75 

73 

Black,  dense  clouds  descending  below  the 

24 

66 

75 

72 

peaks  of  the  surrounding  ranges  during 

25 

66 

76 

73 

the  rains,  and  light,  feathery  clouds  in  the 

26 

67 

75 

72 

intervals.  The  air  cool  and  still  from  5 

27 

66 

76 

72 

until  9 A.M. 

28 

66 

76 

72 

29 

65 

75 

72 

30 

65 

76 

73 

31 

65 

76 

72 

Nov.  1 

65 

77 

73 

2 

64 

78 

73 

3 

65 

76 

72 

4 

63 

75 

71 

\ Clear  dry  norther. 

5 

63 

74 

72 

6 

64 

74 

73 

> 

7 

64 

76 

72 

j Rain  and  heavy  clouds  at  night. 

8 

63 

75 

72 

The  following  figures  are  from  observations  taken  during  my  first  visit  in 
Jutecalpa,  1100  feet  elevation: 


Date. 

Sunrise. 

Noon. 

Sunset. 

Observations. 

1855. 

o 

o 

o 

Jan.  3 

62 

70 

69 

1 

4 

61 

72 

70 

Unfrequent  but  violent  showers,  with  thun- 

5 

62 

73 

68 

V der  and  lightning. 

6 

60 

72 

69 

7 

61 

75 

69 

J 

8 

62 

72 

70 

9 

63 

73 

70 

10 

62 

73 

69 

11 

63 

74 

69 

1 

12 

63 

73 

69 

1 Winds  N.E.  and  N.  Much  rain,  and  low, 

13 

61 

73 

68 

f dense  clouds,  with  slight  intervals  of 

14 

61 

73 

69 

J clear  weather. 

CLIMATE  OF  THE  INTERIOR. 


543 


northers,  which  in  the  winter  months  often  sweep  with  great 
fury  over  the  country,  the  temperature  is  such  as  to  require  thick 
clothing  throughout  the  day;  and  where  fires  are  kept  burning 
in  the  corridors  they  are  surrounded  with  a huddling,  shivering 
group.  The  mornings  and  nights  are  particularly  cool.  In  con- 
clusion, it  is  not  too  much  to  accord  to  the  interior  of  all  Cen- 
tral America  a climate  not  surpassed  on  the  American  continent. 

The  temperature  of  the  coast  offers  little  inducement  for  a 
lengthy  sojourn  to  the  stranger.  On  the  Pacific  side,  the  heats 
of  summer  are  tempered  with  a grateful  breeze  setting  in  from 
seaward  about  11  A.M.  and  subsiding  at  sundown;  the  even- 
ings and  nights  being  rather  oppressive,  and  the  mornings  still 
and  hot.  The  town  of  Amapala,  in  the  Bay  of  Fonseca,  is  one 
of  the  most  temperate ; but,  retiring  a few  leagues  inland  from 
the  coast,  we  encounter  an  entirely  different  climate,  where  the 
natural  heat  of  the  low  lands  is  unrelieved  by  the  sea-breeze, 
from  which  they  are  partially  deprived  by  intervening  or  adja- 
cent ranges : here  the  heat  is  often  extreme,  and,  to  strangers, 
unbearable.  Fevers  and  other  diseases  incident  to  the  country 
are  more  prevalent,  and  even  the  natives  absent  themselves,  if 
possible,  during  the  hot  months.  Such  are  some  of  the  towns 
situated  between  the  sea-coast  and  the  Cordilleras ; among  these 
could  be  cited  Nacaome,  Choluteca,  Pespire,  and  towns  similar- 
ly located  in  Nicaragua  and  San  Salvador. 

On  the  opposite  or  Atlantic  side  of  the  continent,  the  climate 


The  following  are  from  observations  taken  during  my  second  visit  to  the  Ha- 
cienda of  Lepaguare,  2100  feet  elevation: 


Date. 

Sunrise. 

Noon. 

Sunset. 

Observations. 

1855. 

o 

o 

o 

Jan.  16 

58 

72 

70 

1 N.  and  N.E.  winds — very  light  and  fitful ; 

17 

59 

72 

70 

I dense  fogs  often  overlaying  the  valleys 

18 

58 

72 

70 

S and  crowning  the  hill-tops.  Mornings 

19 

58 

72 

69 

cool  and  damp ; at  noon,  the  wind  stron- 

20 

58 

73 

70 

J ger- 

21 

59 

73 

69 

22 

58 

72 

69 

23 

59 

73 

71 

24 

58 

74 

70 

Rain  toward  sunset  and  at  night. 

25 

58 

74 

72 

26 

59 

74 

72 

On  Cerro  de  Ule,  at  an  elevation  of  5000  feet,  the  thermometer  showed  at 
7 P.M.,  on  the  18th  of  March,  1855,  52°  Fahrenheit:  this  was  during  a strong, 
clear  norther. 


544 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


is  better  known  to  Americans.  The  atmosphere,  charged  with 
moisture  from  the  regular  trade-winds  sweeping  across  the  At- 
lantic and  the  Caribbean  Sea,  preserves  a constant  humidity, 
while  the  condensing  of  these  vapors  upon  the  slopes  of  the  Cor- 
dilleras, forms  the  numerous  streams  interlacing  this  side  of  the 
continent,  and  of  which  the  Pacific  slope  is  thus  partially  de- 
prived. The  luxuriance  of  forest  and  jungle  of  the  Caribbean 
coast,  so  remarkably  contrasted  with  the  lesser  density  of  the 
woodland  of  the  southern  side,  may  be  traced  to  this  unceasing 
fertilizing  agency. 

As  a consequence  of  the  general  moisture  of  this  region,  to- 
gether with  its  high  temperature,  the  climate  can  never  be  con- 
sidered salubrious,  a conclusion  sufficiently  established  by  the 
unsuccessful  attempts  of  the  Spaniards  to  maintain  populous 
towns  there,  and  the  melancholy  failure  of  the  English,  Prus- 
sians, and  Belgians  to  colonize  the  coast  between  Cape  Gracias 
a Dios  and  Guatemala.  Of  these  scarcely  a trace  but  the  graves 
of  many  of  the  adventurers  remains  to  point  out  the  folly  of  such 
enterprises.  The  harbors  of  the  eastern  coast  should  serve  but 
as  portals  to  the  healthy  region  of  the  interior.  The  experi- 
ence of  many  years  demonstrates  this,  and  the  sallow  faces  of 
most  North  Americans  or  Europeans  who  have  escaped  the  or- 
deal of  acclimation,  too  plainly  indicate  the  enervating  effects  of 
a protracted  residence.  A description  of  the  climates,  and  the 
physical  causes  influencing  them,  of  Vera  Cruz,  Tampico,  San 
Juan  del  Norte,  Aspinwall,  and  Balize,  will  apply,  with  slight 
exceptions,  to  the  settlements  on  the  northern  coast  of  Hon- 
duras. 

The  reports  of  recent  visitors  of  this  coast  present  more  fa- 
vorable accounts  of  its  climate.  Captain  Henderson,  in  1811, 
represents  the  norths  as  being  unpleasantly  cold  ; the  wet  ones 
conveying  an  imperfect  idea  of  a November  day  in  England,  and 
the  dry  ones,  or  those  not  accompanied  by  rain,  as  beautiful, 
agreeable,  and  invigorating.  These,  he  says,  occur  between 
the  months  of  October  and  March.  The  same  author,  speaking 
of  Balize,  says  : “ The  strong  sea-breeze,  which  blows  freely 
nine  months  of  the  year,  contributes  mainly  to  the  health  of  the 
inhabitants.  Still,  the  heat  is  by  far  too  great  to  make  any  part 


CLIMATE  ON  TIIE  COASTS. 


545 


of  the  province  desirable  as  a place  of  emigration.”*  The  same 
author  alludes  to  the  attempt  of  the  speculator  M‘Gregor,  many 
years  since,  to  establish  a colony  at  the  mouth  of  the  Black  Riv- 
er, or  Rio  Tinto,  a subject  latterly  made  the  basis  of  a well- 
known  work  of  fiction.  This  enterprise  was  the  means  of  sac- 
rificing many  lives.  The  remnants  of  the  colony  afterward 
reached  Truxillo,  whence  some  members  visited  the  interior  for 
mining  purposes.  The  few  remaining  of  the  ill-fated  Belgian 
colony  at  Santa  Tomas,  in  Guatemala,  also  retired  into  the  sa- 
lubrious uplands,  and  became  soon  restored  to  health. f 

* In  relation  to  the  norths  (or  northers)  of  the  Caribbean  coast  of  Central  Amer- 
ica, the  following  occurs  in  Captain  Livingston’s  Translation  of  the  Spanish  Di- 
rectory for  the  West  Indies  (Derrotero  de  las  Antilles) : 

“ Upon  the  Mosquito  shore,  Honduras,  and  eastern  coast  of  Yucatan,  the  gen- 
eral winds  or  breezes  prevail  in  February,  March,  April,  and  May  ; but  during 
the  first  two  of  these  months  they  are  occasionally  interrupted  by  norths.  In 
June,  July,  and  August,  the  winds  here  are  from  the  eastward  and  westward  of 
south,  with  tornadoes  and  calms.  In  September,  October,  November,  December, 
and  January,  they  are  from  the  northward  or  southward  of  west,  with  frequent 
gales  from  W.S.W.,  W.N.W.,  and  N. 

“ The  first  of  the  norths  is  regularly  felt  in  the  month  of  September,  but  in  this 
month  and  the  following  one,  October,  the  norths  do  not  blow  with  much  force. 
Sometimes  it  happens  that  they  do  not  appear ; but,  in  that  case,  the  breeze  is  in- 
terrupted by  heavy  rains  and  tornadoes.  In  November  the  norths  are  establish- 
ed, blow  with  much  strength,  and  continue  a length  of  time  during  December, 
January,  and  February.  In  these  months,  after  they  begin,  they  increase  fast ; 
and  in  four  hours,  or  a little  more,  attain  their  utmost  strength,  with  which  they 
continue  blowing  for  forty-eight  hours  ; but  afterward,  though  they  do  not  cease 
for  some  days,  they  are  moderate.  In  these  months  the  norths  are  obscure  and 
northwesterly,  and  they  come  on  so  frequently  that  there  is,  in  general,  not  more 
than  four  or  six  days  between  them.  In  March  and  April  they  are  neither  so 
frequent  nor  last  so  long,  and  are  clearer,  but  yet  they  are  more  fierce  for  the  first 
twenty-four  hours,  and  have  less  northwesting.  In  the  interval  before  November, 
in  which,  as  we  have  said,  the  norths  are  established,  the  weather  is  beautiful,  and 
the  general  breeze  blows  with  great  regularity  by  day,  the  land-breeze  as  regu- 
larly by  night.” 


f The  climate  during  part  of  the  rainy  season  on  the  coast  of  Honduras  is 
shown  by  the  subjoined  table,  kept  at  Truxillo  by  an  American  resident  in  1856 : 


Date. 

Sunrise. 

Noon. 

Sunset. 

Observations. 

May  8 
9 

78° 

78 

88° 

89 

86° 

86 

10 

78 

88 

86 

Fair  weather. 

11 

76 

88 

87 

do. 

12 

13 

79 

79 

89 

89 

86 

84 

Cool  breezes  in  the  evening. 

Cloudy  and  cool  in  the  evening,  with  some 
wind. 

14 

76 

86 

82 

Fair  weather. 

15 

74 

87 

85 

do. 

1 16 

76 

87 

85 

do. 

M M 


546 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


Of  the  amount  of  rain  falling  either  in  the  interior  or  on  the 
coast,  no  statistics  are  known  but  those  appearing  in  the  elabo- 


Date. 

Sunrise. 

Noon. 

Sunset. 

Observations. 

May  17 

76° 

88° 

84° 

Fair  weather. 

18 

80 

88 

84 

Shower  in  A.M. — cloudy  all  day. 

19 

78 

84 

80 

Fair. 

20 

80 

88 

84 

Fair. 

21 

79 

88 

84 

Several  explosions  of  gases  in  the  mount- 
ains in  the  P.M. 

22 

23 

76 

75 

87 

87 

84 

84 

\ 

Slight  shower  this  evening — showery  dur- 
ing the  night. 

Rain  after  8 P.M.,  accompanied  with  thun- 

der  and  lightning. 

24 

79 

86 

84 

Shower  this  evening. 

25 

76 

86 

84 

Rained  all  day. 

26 

76 

78 

79 

Cloudy,  with  a breeze. 

27 

76 

80 

80 

do.  do. 

28 

74 

84 

81 

Shower  at  P.M. 

29 

76 

84 

82 

Shower  at  9 P.M. 

30 

74 

84 

83 

Shower  at  5 P.M. 

31 

76 

84 

80 

Showery  during  day  and  evening. 

June  1 

75 

82 

77 

Showery  during  the  afternoon. 

2 

75 

80 

78 

Do.  do.,  with  cool  breeze. 

3 

75 

80 

78 

Cloudy,  with  a breeze. 

4 

78 

86 

82 

Fair. 

5 

78 

88 

84 

Fair. 

6 

78 

88 

83 

Rain  from  8 to  10  A.M. 

7 

78 

86 

80 

Showery  all  day. 

8 

78 

86 

80 

Showery  since  2 P.M. 

9 

76 

81 

78 

Do.  since  5 P.M.,  with  wind. 
Thunder  during  the  P.M. 

10 

72 

84 

78 

11 

76 

84 

82 

Rain  about  3 P.M. 

12 

75 

84 

82 

Fair,  with  light  wind. 

13 

75 

85 

82 

Showery  during  A.M. 

14 

78 

88 

84 

Cloudy — thunder — rain  at  8 P.M. 

15 

76 

84 

81 

Rain  during  P.M. 

16 

75 

83 

79 

Cloudy  during  A.M. 

17 

76 

81 

81 

Rained  violently  this  P.M. 

18 

76 

83 

77 

Cloudy ; slight  sprinkles  of  rain. 

19 

76 

80 

71 

Showery  all  day. 

20 

76 

79 

79 

Cloudy,  with  wind  in  the  P.M. 

21 

76 

81 

79 

Rainy  since  2 P.M. 

22 

76 

82 

77 

Rainy  since  2 P.M. 

23 

74 

82 

75 

Rainy  during  P.M. 

24 

74 

81 

80 

Rainy  during  P.M. 

25 

74 

84 

81 

Fair. 

26 

76 

84 

80 

Showery  during  P.M. 

27 

76 

75 

76 

Showery  during  the  day. 

28 

74 

82 

78 

j Showery  during  P.M.,  with  wind  and  thun- 
( der. 

29 

73 

84 

80 

Fair. 

30 

76 

86 

80 

Showery  at  5 P.M. 

July  1 

74 

84 

80 

Showery  during  the  day. 

2 

— 

— 

Rain  at  5 P.M. 

3 

— 

— 

— 

Fair. 

4 

— 

— 

— 

Fair. 

In  “ Martin's  British  Colonies ,”  p.  138,  appears  the  following  summary  of  a 
meteorological  table  kept  several  years  since  at  Balize,  Honduras.  It  may  be 


CLIMATE  ON  THE  COASTS. 


547 


rate  report  published  in  1852  by  O.  W.  Childs,  Surveyor  of  the 
proposed  Nicaragua  Ship  Canal.  The  admeasurements  of  this 
engineer  give  the  following  results ; and,  as  similar  natural  causes 
act  upon  the  whole  of  Central  America,  they  will  apply  as  well 
to  the  adjacent  republic  of  Honduras.  From  September  9th, 
1850,  to  September  25th,  1851,  the  amount  of  water  falling  at 
Rivas,  taken  in  inches  and  decimals,  was  as  follows  : 


September  (1850  7.005 

October 17.860 

November 1.395 

December 3.210 

January  (1851) 0.380 

February 0.000 

March 1.410 


April 0.430 

May 9.145 

June 14.210 

July 22.640 

August 11.810 

September 13.240 

Total  inches 101.735 


The  amount  of  rain  that  fell  during  the  year  from  September 
9,  1850,  to  September  9,  1851,  was  97.71  inches.  There  were 
226  dry  days,  and  139  in  which  rain  fell.  From  May  to  Oc- 
tober inclusive,  90.89  inches  fell,  and  during  the  remaining  six 
months  of  the  year,  known  as  the  dry  season,  only  6.82  inches. 
The  observations  were  taken  in  Rivas,  where  rain  falls  in  nearly 
every  month.  That  rain  falls  in  Olancho  in  nearly  every  month 
of  the  year  is  shown  by  the  meteorological  tables  extending 
nearly  through  what  is  known  in  Central  America  as  the  “ dry 
season.” 

Diseases. — The  diseases  are  in  reality  few.  Fevers  are  rare 
except  on  the  coast,  where  the  calentura  or  coast  fever  prevails 

received  as  a fair  criterion  of  the  temperature  on  the  entire  coast  of  Honduras, 
Guatemala,  and  Yucatan : 


Meteorological  Register  at  Balize,  Honduras. 


Months. 

Thermometer. 

Winds. 

Remarks. 

Max. 

Med. 

Min. 

January ... 

February.. 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 
October  ... 
November 
December 

77° 

78 

79 
82 

83 

84 
83 
83 
83 
83 

80 
78 

75° 

78 

78 
80 

81 

82 

82 

82 

82 

81 

79 
75 

72° 

75 

74 

78 

79 

80 
80 
79 
79 
78 
74 
71 

W.,  N.,  and  N.W. 

W.,  E.,  and  N.E. 

E.N.E.  and  W. 
E.  and  N.E. 

E.N.E.  and  W. 

E.N.E.  and  S.E. 
E.N.E.  and  S.E. 
E.N.E.  and  W. 
E.,  W.,  and  N.E. 
E.N.E.  and  W. 
E.N.E.  and  W. 
E.N.E.  and  W. 

( Generally  dry,  fine  weather ; 
/ some  rain. 

i Ditto,  with  pleasant  breezes  and 
] showers. 

Ditto,  ditto. 

Ditto,  sea  breeze  regular. 

( At  times  dry,  then  heavy  show- 
( ers,  lightning,  and  thunder. 
Air  moist,  cloudy — heavy  rain. 
Ditto,  thunder  and  lightning. 
Ditto,  ditto. 

Fine  occasionally. 

Fine,  with  some  heavy  showers. 
Dry  and  pleasant. 

Ditto,  ditto ; slight  showers. 

548 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


during  the  hottest  months.  Goitre  is  not  confined  to  any  par- 
ticular locality,  but  is  most  common  in  the  mountainous  dis- 
tricts, where,  as  in  Switzerland,  the  poorer  classes  are  subject  to 
it.  I met  with  but  three  or  four  instances  of  it. 

Elephantiasis,  though  not  common,  is  occasionally  found  also 
in  the  upland  regions.  But  one  leg  is  ever  stricken  with  the 
disease ; the  limb  gradually  increases  to  double  the  size  of  the 
other,  the  swelling  often  reaching  above  the  thigh : this  disease 
is  considered  incurable  and  fatal.  The  natives  have  various  ex- 
planations of  these  and  similar  affections,  the  commonly  received 
one  being  that  of  drinking  impure  water.  Such  disorders,  and 
the  remarkable  swelling  of  the  muscles  of  the  neck,  leaving  a 
sort  of  hump  behind,  may  be  accounted  for  in  a similar  manner 
with  the  same  complaints  in  Europe,  with  the  exception  of  goi- 
tre, which  can  not,  as  in  the  mountains  of  Switzerland,  be  at- 
tributed to  snow. 

The  foreigner  is  often  afflicted  with  a painful  cutaneous  erup- 
tion resembling  boils,  and  here  called  “granos  they  attack  the 
leg  below  the  knee,  and  sometimes  swell  the  feet  to  such  a de- 
gree as  to  render  it  impossible  to  wear  boots  or  shoes.  This 
affliction  may  be  cured  by  drinking  the  Coyol  wine,  before  re- 
ferred to,  and  by  baths  of  salt  and  water. 

The  fevers  of  the  country  are  the  “tertiana”  (or  every-oth- 
er-day  fever),  resembling  in  its  effects  and  mode  of  attack  the 
worst  form  of  fever  and  ague  of  the  Western  United  States, 
and  the  “ calentura”  a type  of  the  same.  This  is  uncom- 
mon in  the  interior,  and  yields  easily  to  the  usual  remedies, 
which  are  generally  strong  cathartics,  followed  by  doses  of 
quinine,  prescribed  by  the  native  physicians  on  the  general  and 
rather  perilous  principle  chat  if  a little  is  good,  a great  deal  is 
better. 

The  symptoms  of  Central  American  fever  are  cold  shudder- 
ings,  varied  by  quick  flushes  of  heat,  and  sickness  at  the  stom- 
ach. If  the  patient  has  taken  cold,  they  are  reckoned  danger- 
ous. An  intolerable  headache,  weakness  of  the  limbs,  aching  of 
the  joints,  dizziness,  and  general  debility,  attend  the  attack.  It 
is  hastened  by  immoderate  use  of  liquors  and  fruit,  irregularity 
in  eating,  or  imprudent  exposure  to  the  rains,  night  air,  or  noon- 
day sun.  But  the  most  scrupulous  care  will  not  always  avail, 


PUBLIC  INSTRUCTION. 


549 


and  tlie  mere  change  of  climate  renders  the  foreigner  liable  to  it. 
The  fevers,  as  a general  rule,  succumb  to  experienced  and  prompt 
medical  treatment. 

The  cholera,  though  decimating  the  largest  cities  of  Central 
America  in  1836,  has  never  yet  made  its  appearance  in  Olancho, 
and  but  few  cases  have  ever  occurred  in  any  part  of  Honduras ; 
the  northeast  trades  seem  to  act  as  a constant  disinfectant  from 
this  and  all  other  epidemics. 

As  in  Chinandega,  Nicaragua,  some  of  the  women  of  Olancho 
are  disfigured  by  a large  swelling,  or  wen,  protruding  from  the 
fore  part  of  the  neck,  directly  under  the  chin.  It  presents  an 
unseemly  sight,  and  has  never  been  satisfactorily  accounted  for. 
It  has  been  mistaken  by  strangers  for  the  goitre,  and  may  be 
identical  with  the  “ giieguecho,”  or  swelling  of  the  glands  of  the 
neck,  mentioned  by  Dunn  in  his  work  on  Guatemala. 

The  native  physicians  are  generally  graduates  of  the  college 
of  Guatemala.  Their  knowledge  of  medicine  is  extremely  lim- 
ited ; probably  the  same  remedies  used  by  the  followers  of  Gil 
Gonzales  and  Pedrarias  are  in  vogue  at  the  present  time.  Fe- 
male doctors,  or  old  women  known  as  “ curadoras ,”  are  found 
in  every  town,  whose  art  is  confined  to  a few  simples,  and,  in 
fevers,  to  rubbing  the  patient  with  tallow,  and  mumbling  over 
some  senseless  incantation.  These  old  creatures  are  usually  ex- 
tremely jealous  of  foreign  interference  in  this  business. 

Public  Instruction. — The  revolutions  and  their  attendant 
sectional  jealousies  have  greatly  retarded  the  progress  of  popu- 
lar education  in  nearly  all  Central  America.  A feeble  spark 
has  been  kept  alive,  however,  and  there  are  now,  as  estimated 
by  Mr.  Squier,  in  Honduras  about  four  hundred  schools  where 
children  are  taught  to  read  and  write.  The  young  of  all  classes 
meet  here  on  a common  level,  and,  with  a different  system  and 
efficient  teachers,  the  result  would  be  highly  encouraging.  The 
scholars  are  generally  apt  and  intelligent,  and  capable  of  receiv- 
ing instruction.  Honduras  has  produced  more  than  her  quota 
of  the  distinguished  men  of  Central  America ; among  them  sol- 
diers, statesmen,  and  orators,  who,  in  a wider  field  and  under 
more  propitious  circumstances,  might  have  filled  an  illustrious 
page  in  history. 

The  Academia  IAteraria  of  Tegucigalpa,  and  a similar  in- 


550 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


stitution  in  a less  flourishing  condition  in  Comayagua,  are  the 
only  colleges  or  universities  in  the  republic.  The  former  I have 
elsewhere  described. 

The  principal  seat  of  learning  in  Central  America  is  at  the 
city  of  Guatemala,  where  are  several  old  literary  institutions 
founded  under  the  viceroyalty.  Youths  are  sent  there  from  all 
parts  of  Honduras.  The  University,  though  greatly  improved 
in  all  respects  within  the  last  ten  years,  is  still  not  equal  to 
those  of  Mexico.  Dunn,  writing  in  1828,  represents  them  in  a 
ludicrous  light,  and  rebukes  the  national  vanity  of  the  historian 
Juarros,  who  speaks  of  examinations  in  surgery,  of  a royal  cab- 
inet of  natural  history,  a school  of  mathematics,  and  a college 
of  physicians.  “ In  connection  with  the  university,”  he  adds, 
“there  are  twelve  professorships,  and  an  academical  senate  of 
fifty  doctors.  It  is  needless  to  enumerate  the  chairs : they  are 
of  Latin,  philosophy,  theology,  morals,  etc.  What  the  precise 
method  of  imparting  instruction  may  be  matters  little.  It  is 
sufficient  to  know  that  the  students  leave  the  college  with  sim- 
ilar acquirements  to  those  Gil  Bias  possessed  when  he  departed 
from  the  University  of  Salamanca.”  Guatemala  has  lately  had 
no  revolutions,  and  more  attention  has  been  devoted  to  the  cul- 
ture of  the  useful  arts  and  to  education  than  formerly.  Addi- 
tional appropriations  have  been  made,  and  that  some  interest  is 
felt  in  scientific  subjects  may  be  gathered  from  the  interesting 
mineral,  ornithological,  and  botanical  collection  forwarded  in 
1855  to  the  Great  Exhibition  in  Paris. 

By  far  the  majority  of  the  people  of  Honduras  are  steeped  in 
ignorance  and  superstition.  The  libraries,  consisting  principal- 
ly of  theological  works,  are  few  and  meagre,  and  mostly  the 
property  of  priests.  But  one  newspaper,  “ la  Gaceta  Oficicd 
is  published  in  the  republic.  The  books  are  generally  Mexican 
and  Guatemalan  republications  of  Spanish  works,  or  political 
and  personal  pamphlets  and  handbills.  Years  of  experience  for- 
bid all  hope  for  a change  for  the  better,  except,  perhaps,  through 
foreign  influence,  with  its  attendant  enlightenment.  While  the 
only  available  means  of  instruction  remain  in  the  power  of  the 
priesthood,  and  until  the  progress  of  events  shall  have  led  to 
such  a political  change  as  has  been  above  hinted,  there  can  be 
little  done  for  the  cause  of  popular  education  in  Honduras. 


AMUSEMENTS  AND  KELIGION. 


. 551 


Amusements. — In  a country  so  secluded  from  the  world,  and 
consequently  so  thrown  upon  its  own  resources,  the  means  of 
public  diversion  in  Honduras  are  limited.  They  consist  of 
bull-fights,  which  are  rude  and  humble  imitations  of  similar  ex- 
hibitions in  Spain ; gambling,  confined  to  monte,  the  national 
game  of  the  Spaniard  and  his  colonial  descendant ; horse-racing, 
cock-fighting,  in  which  all  classes  indulge,  from  the  clergy  to 
the  meanest  mestizo  ; dancing,  and  the  public  funcions  and  fies- 
tas of  the  Catholic  Church. 

Thompson  speaks  of  theatricals  at  Guatemala ; hut,  with  the 
exception  of  a diminutive  Thespian  temple  at  the  capital  of 
Costa  Rica,  this  species  of  amusement  has  not  reached  the  oth- 
er states.  A circus  from  California  once  attempted  to  seduce 
the  Salvadorenos,  hut  unsuccessfully.  With  the  true  Spanish 
dislike  of  innovations,  there  is  little  encouragement  extended  to 
the  efforts  of  foreigners  to  win  the  Central  Americans  from  their 
old  channels  of  diversion. 

Religion. — The  present  Constitution  of  Honduras  (that  of 
1848)  recognizes  only  the  Roman  Catholic  religion,  hut  no  ob- 
stacles are  advanced  to  untrammeled  worship,  under  whatever 
denomination.  The  largest  liberty  now  prevails  in  this  respect ; 
still,  I was  informed  by  the  curate  of  Jutecalpa,  who  had  repre- 
sented the  Department  of  Olancho  in  the  National  Legislature, 
that  the  erection  of  any  hut  a Catholic  church  would  he  opposed 
hy  the  government  and  the  priesthood.  In  an  attempt,  made 
some  years  ago  hy  an  English  company,  to  introduce  colonists 
into  Honduras  for  agricultural  purposes,  Mr.  Chatfield  endeav- 
ored to  secure  for  them  from  the  government  the  privilege  of 
erecting  and  worshiping  in  a Protestant  church,  hut  was  sturdi- 
ly opposed.  Whatever  innovation,  political  or  social,  may  he  in 
store  for  Honduras,  it  is  not  prohahle  that  any  change  can  for 
many  years  he  effected  in  the  religion  of  the  country.  The  forms 
of  the  Church  are  not  oppressive,  the  inhabitants  generally  ven- 
erating the  padres. 

Under  the  viceroyalty  there  were  convents  in  Honduras  of 
the  Franciscan,  Merced,  and  Carmelite  orders.  These,  however, 
have  been  many  years  abolished,  and  two  of  them  turned  into 
universities.  The  benefices  and  clerical  exactions  under  the 
Spanish  rule  were  abolished  hy  Morazan  with  the  exodus  of 


552 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  friars  in  1829.  Of  the  former  property  and  revenues  of  the 
Church,  little  or  nothing  now  remains  ; the  padres  are  generally 
poor,  and  the  churches  have  been  long  since  divested  of  their 
valuables.  Unlike  Mexico,  the  revolutions  have  resulted  in  the 
impoverishing  and  curtailing  the  power  of  the  Church.  Senor 
Lerdo  de  Tajeda,  now  at  the  head  of  the  Mexican  financial  de- 
partment, estimates  the  real  property  of  the  clergy  in  that  coun- 
try at  the  incredible  sum  of  $250,000,000 ! In  Central  Amer- 
ica, on  the  contrary,  the  churches  are  falling  to  decay  ; the  relig- 
ious processions,  bombas,  and  tinsel  for  feast-days  are  dependent 
upon  the  contributions  of  the  devout. 

The  baneful  results  of  clerical  interference  in  the  political  af- 
fairs of  Central  America  have  taught  the  people  to  define,  as  far 
as  possible,  the  limits  between  the  Church  and  state.  Hence 
the  gradual  relief  of  the  political  system  from  the  control  of  the 
priests,  and  a liberal  tolerance  of  all  Christian  forms  of  worship. 

Population,  Aboriginal  and  Modern. — Becent  explora- 
tions in  W estern  Honduras  have  shown  that  a people  not  great- 
ly inferior  to  the  builders  of  Palenque  and  Chicken  in  civiliza- 
tion and  intelligence,  resided  here  at  the  date  of  the  discovery. 
In  Chapter  XXIY.  I have  referred  briefly  to  the  aborigines  of 
Honduras  as  described  by  Herrera.  The  names  of  many  towns 
in  the  valley  of  Comayagua,  passing  through  the  department  of 
that  name,  are  perpetuated  from  their  aboriginal  ones,  existing, 
it  is  presumed,  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest.  The  ruins  of  Te- 
nampua,  situated  about  twenty  miles  southeast  from  Comaya- 
gua, are  noticed  at  considerable  length  by  Mr.  Squier,  from  whose 
description  it  would  appear  that  extensive  structures  for  defens- 
ive or  religious  purposes,  or  both,  existed  here  at  a remote  pe- 
riod. It  was  doubtless  in  this  vicinity  that  the  Cacique  Lem- 
pira, with  thirty  thousand  warriors,  fortified  himself  in  1536, 
and  for  six  months  defied  the  Spaniards  under  Alonzo  de  Car- 
ceres.  The  state,  however,  is  generally  bare  of  aboriginal  mon- 
uments, though  the  ruins  of  Copan,  until  lately  erroneously  lo- 
cated in  Guatemala,  are  many  miles  within  the  boundaries  of 
Honduras,  and  but  a few  days’  travel  from  the  original  landing- 
place  of  the  Spanish  discoverers. 

The  aborigines  of  Eastern  Honduras  and  Segovia,  as  de- 
scribed by  Juarros,  though  known  under  the  general  name  of 


POPULATION. 


553 


Xicaques,  Moscos,  and  Sambos,  were  composed  of  many  na- 
tions, among  whom  were  the  Lencas,  Teguacas,  Payas  (or  Poyas), 
Albatuinas,-  Tahuas  (or  Toacas),  Jaras,  Taos,  Gaulas,  Fantas- 
mas,  Iziles,  Motucas,  and  many  others,  all  speaking  different 
languages,  having  distinct  governments,  manners,  and  customs, 
and  distinguished  by  a variety  of  hues,  black,  white,  and  cop- 
per-colored. These  tribal  designations,  however,  were  assumed 
after  the  conquest  of  Honduras,  the  variety  of  colors  having 
arisen  from  the  mixing  of  the  natives  with  a considerable  num- 
ber of  shipwrecked  Spaniards,  and  afterward  with  negroes  cast 
ashore  from  a wrecked  slave-vessel.  The  names  of  Taguzgal- 
pa  (Teguaca  village?),  Jutecalpa,  Tonjagua,  Teupacente,  Lepa- 
guare,  Jutequili,  Culml,  Asagualpa,  Catacamas,  are  all  derived 
from  the  Indian  language,  or  are  the  aboriginal  names  unchanged 
since  the  discovery.  That  the  Spaniards  found  this  portion  of 
the  country  well  populated,  is  evident  from  the  opposition  shown 
to  their  march  into  the  interim',  and  their  designation  as  “ power- 
ful tribes”  by  Bernal  Diaz.  Their  descendants,  under  the  name 
of  “ tribas  errantes ” and  “ salvajes  indigenos ,”  as  distinguish- 
ed from  the  more  civilized  and  agricultural  tribes,  located  nearer 
the  towns  of  the  Spaniards,  still  wander  over  the  coast  savan- 
nas, or  tread  the  mountain  solitudes,  rarely  communicating  with 
the  settlements  of  the  “ converted”  Indians. 

No  traces  appear  of  architectural  design,  or  even  the  existence 
of  an  organized  system  of  worship,  such  as  is  evidenced  in  the 
gigantic  idols  and  splendid  ruins  found  in  Yucatan,  Guatemala, 
and  Nicaragua.  Mounds  containing  specimens  of  ancient  pot- 
tery are  often  met  with  by  the  vaqueros  while  exploring  the 
gloomy  depths  of  the  forest,  but  these  seldom  survive  the  de- 
structive curiosity  of  the  natives.  In  the  valleys  of  Agalta  and 
Abajo,  in  Olancho,  and  in  the  Department  of  Tegucigalpa,  es- 
pecially on  the  extensive  hacienda  of  Labranza,  the  mounds  are 
most  frequently  met  with.  The  terra-cottas  contained  in  them 
are  of  an  ancient  shape,  of  which  no  patterns  now  exist ; from 
ten  to  thirty  pieces  are  found  in  each,  generally  in  the  form  of 
pans  and  jars.  I could  not  learn  that  any  idols  or  human  bones 
had  ever  been  discovered.  The  jars  have  often  been  found  so 
complete  as  to  be  adopted  for  household  use  ; they  exhibit  no 
signs  of  painting  or  ornamental  sculpture. 


554 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


The  proportion  of  white,  Indian,  and  mixed  races  in  Hondu- 
ras is  not  correctly  ascertained,  nor  are  there  known  any  statis- 
tics upon  which  to  base  other  than  a conjectural  statement. 
The  estimates  of  Crowe,  Thompson,  and  Squier,  the  only  relia- 
ble authors  on  these  subjects,  make  their  statements  for  Central 
America  generally,  or  for  Guatemala  ; but  in  Honduras  it  can 
not  fail  to  strike  the  visitor  that  the  negro  and  Indian  stocks 
form  a very  large  proportion.  Assuming  Mr.  Squier’s  estimate 
of  the  population  (350,000)  to  be  correct,  the  relative  propor- 
tions may  be  stated  as  follows  : 


Negroes  and  Mulattoes 140,000 

Indians 100,000 

Ladinos 60,000 

Whites 50,000 

Total 350,000 


No  reliable  census  has  ever  been  taken  of  the  state.  The 
population  even  of  large  towns  is  not  ascertained  with  certainty, 
the  statements  of  intelligent  residents  varying  two  thousand  for 
Tegucigalpa,  and  an  equal  number  for  the  smaller  town  of  Jute- 
calpa.  The  variations  in  population  produced  by  the  revolu- 
tions sufficiently  account  for  this,  all  the  male  inhabitants  de- 
serting a small  town  to  escape  conscription  on  the  approach  of 
war,  so  that  successive  travelers  may  give  entirely  different  es- 
timates. At  the  commencement  of  the  war  of  1855  between 
Honduras  and  Guatemala,  I was  informed  that  steps  had  al- 
ready been  taken  to  form  a census  of  the  state ; but,  under  the 
usual  system  of  government,  no  correct  estimate  can  ever  be 
made,  as,  at  the  approach  of  a military  or  civil  official,  the  poor- 
er classes  flee  precipitately  from  the  villages. 

While  the  white  population  has  diminished,  the  blacks,  In- 
dians, and  Ladinos  have  been  slowly  but  steadily  increasing, 
and  the  Carib  settlements  between  Cape  Cameron  and  Omoa 
have  augmented  to  a surprising  extent  in  the  last  four  years. 
Indiscriminate  amalgamation  has  nearly  obliterated  the  former 
distinction  of  castes,  and  few  families  of  pure  Spanish  descent 
are  known.  Some  of  the  wealthiest  merchants  of  the  Depart- 
ment of  Tegucigalpa  are  blacks,  possessing  a surprising  degree 
of  business  tact.  Two  of  the  largest  commercial  houses  have 
negro  proprietors,  whose  mercantile  relations  extend  to  Europe, 


POPULATION. 


555 


whence  they  import  most  of  their  goods.  Though  the  great  ma- 
jority of  the  negroes  of  Honduras  are  a thoroughly  debased  and 
ignorant  class,  there  are  numerous  exceptions.  The  Senate  and 
House  of  Assembly  have  contained  many  highly  intelligent 
blacks  and  mulattoes,  thoroughly  educated  in  the  Central  Amer- 
ican school  of  politics,  and  with  sufficient  discernment  to  foresee 
the  decline  of  their  own  influence  and  the  power  of  the  negro 
race  with  the  introduction  of  the  Teutonic  stock.  Hence  their 
violent  opposition  to  foreign  enterprises  in  the  national  coun- 
cils and  in  their  private  circles. 

The  clergy  are  mostly  negroes  or  mestizos.  Their  power  for 
evil  has  been  largely  curtailed  since  the  Independence ; but,  with 
few  exceptions,  these  men  exercise  rather  a favorable  influence 
over  the  people,  and  are  generally  respected.  The  whites,  stand- 
ing in  a small  numerical  minority,  regard  the  increase  of  the 
other  races  with  alarm.  They  have  been  the  originators  of 
nearly  every  scheme  for  the  invitation  of  foreigners  into  Hondu- 
ras, and,  except  when  restrained  by  popular  opposition,  have  en- 
tered heartily  into  the  proposals  of  Americans  to  colonize  the 
country,  or  in  any  way  to  develop  its  resources.  The  failure  of 
such  enterprises  has,  in  most  cases,  been  owing  to  the  overthrow 
of  such  Liberal  administrations,  and  the  succession  of  the  Ser- 
vile or  mestizo  party. 

The  wealthiest  and  most  pure-blooded  of  these  families  are  lo- 
cated in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state,  where  a species  of  repub- 
lican aristocracy  is  maintained,  and  from  whom,  in  the  course 
of  time,  the  regeneration  of  Honduras,  by  their  affiliation  with 
foreigners,  will  doubtless  proceed. 

The  Indians,  descended  from  the  aboriginal  tribes  already  al- 
luded to,  are  distributed  throughout  the  state,  but  divided  into 
two  distinct  classes : those  inhabiting  the  plateaus  and  table- 
lands of  the  interior,  who  may  be  classed  as  a peaceable,  indus- 
trious people,  such  as  the  Texiguats  and  others,  cultivating 
small  patches  of  vegetables  and  fruits,  which  they  carry  pa- 
tiently to  the  nearest  towns ; the  other,  the  coast  Indians  and 
those  wandering  over  the  wilds  of  Olancho,  such  as  the  Poyas, 
Woolwas,  Guacos,  and  the  Caribs,  who  are  located  from  Cape 
Gracias  a Dios  to  Guatemala.  These  are  principally  employed 
as  servants,  mahogany  cutters,  carriers,  and  muleteers.  The 


556 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


best  authorities  represent  them  as  docile  and  light-hearted,  and 
the  few  who  have  intelligence  enough  to  interest  themselves  in 
the  political  issues  of  the  country  generally  express  their  pref- 
erence for  the  Liberal  party. 

The  condition  of  the  coast  Indians  and  negroes  has  some- 
what improved  within  five  years.  An  attempt  at  thrift  in  the 
construction  of  their  huts,  an  improvement  in  their  style  of  dress, 
and  other  advantages  accruing  from  a desultory  trade  with  Trux- 
illo  and  Omoa,  are  apparent.  Many  of  them  reside  in  those  parts 
as  servants  or  workmen.* 

Physically,  the  Indians  are  superior  to  the  whites  in  Hondu- 
ras. They  are  mostly  robust  and  athletic,  of  fine  stature,  and 
capable  of  great  exertion.  As  laborers,  they  are  better  calcula- 
ted for  the  climate  than  any  other  people,  excepting  the  negroes. 
The  couriers  pass  over  incredible  distances  in  a day ; the  march- 
es recorded  of  Morazan’s  troops,  and  which  the  dates  of  battles 
and  historical  occurrences  fully  substantiate,  are  almost  unpar- 
alleled. These  Indians  subsist  for  long  periods  on  roots,  vege- 
tables, and  wild  fruits,  and  resist  disease  with  the  scantiest 
imaginable  clothing.  As  arieros,  silver  miners  ( tanateros ),  and 
mahogany  cutters,  they  display  a power  of  endurance  for  which, 

* It  is  stated  on  the  authority  of  an  American  gentleman,  for  several  years  a 
resident  at  Omoa,  that  descendants  of  the  ancient  Aztec  race  are  yet  to  be  found 
at  that  place.  The  few  who  are  known  have  been  employed  as  domestics  by  the 
foreign  residents,  and  they  are  represented  to  he  of  diminutive  stature,  and  un- 
like any  other  Indians  in  Honduras.  A small  tribe  of  them  are  said  to  exist 
on  the  confines  of  Guatemala,  whence  the  few  found  in  Honduras  have  come. 
One  of  their  peculiarities  is  to  retire  to  some  secluded  spot  when  stricken  with 
disease,  where,  it  is  said,  they  often  die  for  want  of  assistance,  which  they 
stubbornly  refuse.  An  Aztec  who  had  lived  for  some  years  in  the  house  of 
the  United  States  Consul,  Mr.  Follen,  became  sick,  and  refused  all  proffers  of 
aid ; he  retired  from  sight,  convinced  that  his  time  had  arrived,  and  moodi- 
ly desired  that  none  should  follow  him.  His  remains  were  subsequentljr  found 
in  a deserted  hut,  where  he  had  hidden  himself  to  die.  Similar  instances 
are  related  of  this  singular  people.  It  may  not  be  irrelevant  here  to  remark 
that  the  living  curiosities  exhibited  some  years  since  under  the  name  of  the 
“Aztec  Children”  were  taken  from  an  Indian  village  near  Cojutepeque,  in  San 
Salvador,  by  a Spaniard  named  Silva,  to  whom  the  mother  sold  them  for  a tri- 
fling sum.  The  story  of  their  Mexican  origin  was  an  amusing  fiction — a part  of 
the  speculation.  The  most  remarkable  fact  in  relation  to  this  subject  is,  that  the 
mother  has  since  produced  a counterpart  of  the  first  couple,  and,  at  the  time  of 
my  visit  to  Central  America,  was  desirous  of  disposing  of  them  to  some  specula- 
tor from  el  Norte  for  a reasonable  consideration  ! 


GOVERNMENT. 


557 


in  a tropical  and  at  times  debilitating  climate,  the  stranger  is 
quite  unprepared. 

Such  a population,  wisely  but  rather  arbitrarily  ruled,  and 
with  the  impetus  of  foreign  enterprise  to  stimulate  them  to  ex- 
ertion, are  capable  of  raising  Honduras  to  an  enviable  grade  of 
prosperity,  but  not  without  the  ingrafting  of  a Teutonic  stock 
by  liberal  encouragement  to  immigrants,  thus  to  prevent  the  fa- 
tal decrease  of  the  white  races,  and  to  open  the  way  to  civiliza- 
tion and  progress.  Priest-ridden,  steeped  in  superstition,  and 
enervated  by  prejudiced  and  ignorant  rulers,  the  people  have 
nothing  to  hope  for  the  future  where  the  past  has  been  but  the 
history  of  destructive  and  barbaric  tendencies. 

Government  and  Political  Divisions. — The  republic  is 
divided  politically  into  seven  departments  or  counties,  as  follows : 
Olancho,  Yoro,  Tegucigalpa,  Choluteca,  Comayagua,  Gracias, 
and  Santa  Barbara.  The  capital  of  each  corresponds  to  the 
name  of  the  department,  excepting  Olancho,  of  which  the  capi- 
tal is  Jutecalpa.  The  city  of  Comayagua,  though  smaller  and 
less  populous  than  Tegucigalpa,  is  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
republic. 

The  government  is  based  on  the  Constitution  of  1848,  framed 
under  the  administration  of  President  Lindo,  whose  signature, 
and  that  of  Santos  Guardiola,  is  subscribed  to  it.  The  Presi- 
dent holds  office  for  four  years,  and  is  ineligible  for  re-election. 
The  actual  cabinet  consists  of  two  ministers — of  Treasury  and 
of  State,  and  the  Legislature  of  two  bodies — the  Senate  and 
Chamber  of  Deputies.  Each  department  is  entitled  to  one  sen- 
ator and  two  deputies,  making  in  the  aggregate,  from  seven  de- 
partments, twenty-one  members  of  the  General  Assembly.  The 
judicial  power  is  vested  in  a Supreme  Court,  held  at  Comayagua 
and  Tegucigalpa.  These  are  the  outlines  of  the  governmental 
system;  but  so  numerous  and  incessant  are  the  political  changes, 
that  they  may  be  said  to  exist  rather  as  formal  declarations  than 
facts.  It  is  seldom  that  a quorum  of  the  General  Assembly  can 
be  collected,  and  on  extraordinary  occasions  military  force  is 
used  to  compel  the  attendance  of  members  hostile  to  the  exist- 
ing administration. 

The  revolutions,  however,  do  not  so  often  affect  the  depart- 
mental authorities.  These  consist  of  a Jefe  Politico , or  govern- 


558 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


ment  agent,  a military  commander  (“  Commandante  Militar ” 
or  ude  Armas"),  a Judge  of  First  Instance,  and  an  ‘•‘■Intendente 
de  Hacienda"  or  collector  of  the  public  revenues.  The  depart- 
ments are  subdivided  into  Municipalidades,  governed  by  a Jefe 
del  Distrito  and  an  Alcalde,  who  in  the  larger  towns  has  two 
or  more  deputies.  These  local  authorities  are  tacitly  continued 
undisturbed  by  changes  in  constitutions  or  administrations. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Commerce. — Exports  and  Imports. — Commercial  Regulations. — Revenue. — 
Seals. — Public  Debt. 

An  attempt  to  obtain  accurate  information  respecting  the 
amount  of  exports  and  imports  in  Eastern  Honduras  is  met  by 
a total  lack  of  statistics,  leaving  the  inquirer  in  the  dark,  and 
rendering  the  task  at  best  a doubtful  one.  The  accounts  regis- 
tered at  the  Aduanas  of  Truxillo  and  Omoa  have  been  allowed 
to  disappear  through  neglect,  or  have  been  lost  or  destroyed 
amid  the  oft-recurring  revolutions  of  the  country,  in  which  a 
quick  rotation  of  officials  has  made  the  registering  of  entries  a 
matter  of  little  moment  compared  with  the  pecuniary  interests  of 
these  temporary  place-holders. 

In  the  absence  of  all  reliable  facts  in  Honduras  touching  these 
subjects,  we  naturally  turn  to  the  U.  S.  Custom  House  of  Bos- 
ton, through  which  port  the  greater  part,  if  not  all,  of  the  Hon- 
duras trade  with  the  North  has  been  conducted  in  the  hands  of 
two  well-known  firms,  who  for  many  years  have  carried  on  a 
profitable  trade  with  the  settlements  of  Balize,  Omoa,  and  Trux- 
illo. The  English  trade  seems  also  to  be  controlled  by  sever- 
al London  houses,  having  extensive  agencies  at  Balize.  Their 
operations,  however,  are  mainly  confined  to  the  cutting  and  ex- 
porting of  mahogany. 

The  frequency  of  the  changes  in  the  political  organization  of 
Central  America  has  rendered  it  nearly  impossible  for  the  United 
States  government  to  keep  pace  with  them,  and,  since  the  ratifi- 
cation of  the  treaty  of  1826  between  the  republic  of  Central 
America  and  the  United  States,  our  government  has  continued 
its  commercial  relations  with  that  country  on  the  basis  of  the 


COMMERCE. 


559 


stipulations  therein  contained,  disregarding  the  new  political 
attitudes  assumed  at  short  intervals  during  the  last  thirty  years, 
and  as  yet  having  no  cause  to  regret  this  rather  loose,  if  not 
careless  basis  of  commercial  intercourse. 

The  statistics  of  commerce  during  the  last  quarter  of  a cen- 
tury have  been  consolidated  in  the  U.  S.  Custom  House  ac- 
counts under  the  general  head  of  Central  America  (including  Ba- 
lize  or  British  Honduras),  and  this  arrangement  has  been  ob- 
served through  eight  administrations,  though  in  that  time  the 
Central  American  confederacy  has  been  dissolved,  each  state 
subsequently  proclaiming  itself  an  independent  republic,  with 
full  powers  to  “ declare  war  and  make  treaties.” 

Thus  generalized,  no  accounts  have  been  taken  of  the  com- 
merce of  any  one  state,  and  it  was  found  impossible  (without  a 
tedious  examination  of  papers  and  documents  difficult  of  access) 
to  obtain  the  statistics  of  trade  of  Honduras. 

The  house  of  Messrs.  Nickerson  & Co.,  engrossing  the  com- 
merce between  Boston  and  N orthern  Honduras,  have  kindly  fur- 
nished a list  of  the  amount  and  description  of  goods  received  by 
them  from  the  ports  of  Omoa  and  Truxillo  during  the  four  an- 
nual voyages  of  1855  and  a portion  of  1856,  in  exchange  for  the 
cheap  manufactured  and  other  goods  adapted  to  the  wants  of  a 
people  of  simple  habits.  But,  though  the  interior  has  been  for 
some  years  known  to  them  as  a rich  and  fertile  country,  abound- 
ing in  resources,  they  have  naturally  avoided  extending  their 
business  relations  beyond  the  better-known  articles  of  commerce, 
elsewhere  enumerated,  and  which  command  certain  prices  in  the 
markets  of  the  United  States.  Very  rich  specimens  of  copper 
and  silver  ore,  besides  opals  of  considerable  value,  have  been 
brought  thence  by  the  masters  of  vessels  in  their  employ,  but, 
for  reasons  above  enumerated,  they  have  declined  going  beyond 
the  limits  of  their  “legitimate  trade.” 

The  results  of  the  four  voyages  above  referred  to,  and  extend- 
ing through  1855,  are  as  follows  : 

FIRST  VOYAGE  IN  1855-6. 

From  Truxillo. — 2445  hides,  20  bales  deer-skins  (238  doz.), 
104  bales  sarsaparilla  (130  lbs.  per  bale),  2878  arrobas  Lima 
wood,  2359  feet  of  mahogany,  72  lbs.  turtle-shell. 


560 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


From  Omoa. — 26  bales  sarsaparilla,  98  dozen  deer-skins,  23 
bales  of  indigo  (2749  lbs.),  2785  hides,  50  ounces  of  old  silver. 

SECOND  VOYAGE. 

From  Truxillo. — 3226  hides,  319  dozen  deer-skins,  58  bales 
sarsaparilla,  1584  arrobas  Lima  wood,  137  lbs.  turtle-shell,  375 
lbs.  India-rubber. 

From  Omoa . — 9 bales  sarsaparilla,  217  dozen  deer-skins,  2400 
hides. 

THIRD  VOYAGE. 

From  Truxillo. — 660  hides,  122  bales  sarsaparilla,  147  dozen 
deer-skins,  3608  arrobas  Lima  wood,  50  lbs.  turtle-shell,  42  lbs. 
India-rubber,  5 ounces  of  gold  dust,  79  marcs  of  silver. 

From  Omoa. — 40  bales  sarsaparilla,  337  dozen  deer-skins, 
2412  hides,  477  horns. 

FOURTH  VOYAGE. 

From  Truxillo. — 3302  hides,  169  dozen  deer-skins,  109  bales 
sarsaparilla,  598  arrobas  Lima  wood,  19  lbs.  turtle-shell. 

From  Omoa. — 1984  hides,  111  dozen  deer-skins,  48  bales 
sarsaparilla,  6 lbs.  turtle-shell,  15  ceroons  of  indigo. 

The  above  hides  are  brought  from  the  interior  of  Olancho 
and  Yoro  on  mules,  and  sometimes  from  a distance  requiring 
many  days’  tedious  travel  to  accomplish.  They  are  valued  at 
about  twenty  per  cent,  less  than  those  of  Buenos  Ayres  in  Bos- 
ton. 

Of  the  exports  from  the  coast  of  Northern  and  Eastern  Hon- 
duras, Mr.  Nickerson  estimates  that  of  hides  about  an  equal 
quantity  are  carried  to  Havana  and  Boston.  Of  deer-skins, 
the  markets  of  Balize  and  Boston  at  present  consume  about  the 
entire  product  in  equal  quantities.  Those  reaching  Balize  are 
exported  to  England  and  New  York.  Gold  and  silver  is  sent 
almost  exclusively  to  England.  Boston,  Balize,  and  Havana 
divide  between  them  the  exports  of  sarsaparilla  from  Truxillo 
and  Omoa.  Of  all  other  exports,  more  is  probably  taken  to  Ha- 
vana and  Balize  than  Boston. 

It  should  be  remembered,  however,  that  full  one  half  of  the 


MAHOGANY.— SILVER. 


561 


entire  produce  of  Honduras  in  the  above  articles  finds  its  way, 
as  I have  elsewhere  explained,  to  San  Miguel.  Taking  this  fact 
into  consideration,  and  remembering  the  amount  passing  through 
Balize  and  to  Havana,  it  will  appear  that  the  trade  of  the  north- 
ern coast  is  not  inconsiderable,  and  may,  with  a moderate  degree 
of  energy,  be  largely  increased. 

But  in  the  article  of  mahogany  and  other  valuable  woods,  a 
vast  commerce  maybe  established  with  the  United  States,  enough 
to  enrich  many  extensive  houses.  Great  fortunes  have  been 
realized  in  London  in  this  business,  which,  carried  on  exclusive- 
ly by  the  English,  is  still  the  basis  of  large  operations.  The 
revenue  of  Honduras  is  considerably  increased  by  the  duty  im- 
posed on  cutting  mahogany.  These  duties,  however,  are  partly 
avoided  by  corrupting  the  government  officers,  so  that  only  a 
small  portion  of  them  are  realized  by  the  state.  I have  else- 
where referred  to  the  manner  of  cutting,  and  the  method  of  drag- 
ging and  rafting  the  logs  down  the  rivers  to  the  sea. 

From  the  Pacific  side,  as  I have  before  remarked,  the  export- 
ations of  mahogany  and  produce  to  California  have  not  yet  as- 
sumed an  important  position  in  commerce.  A company  of 
Americans  have  lately  proposed  to  set  up  a saw-mill  in  San 
Salvador,  near  the  port  of  Acajutla. 

The  exportation  of  silver  ore  has  also  been  latterly  com- 
menced. The  first  sample  of  ores  taken  from  a mine  near  Cho- 
luteca  was  received  in  August,  1855,  consigned  to  me  by  Senor 
Dardano,  of  Tigre  Island.  This  consisted  of  twenty-five  ce- 
roons  of  lead  and  iron  sulphurets,  blended  with  disintegrated 
quartz  and  limestone.  The  total  amount  was  a little  over  a 
ton.  This  was  assayed  by  the  German  firm  of  Wass,  Molitor, 
& Co.,  of  San  Francisco  ; but,  owing  to  the  lack  of  competent 
apparatus,  only  a small  sample  was  smelted.  The  result  was 
sufficiently  favorable  to  warrant  the  proprietors  of  the  establish- 
ment in  promising  me  to  incur  the  expense  of  erecting  costly 
European  machinery  capable  of  smelting  large  quantities,  could 
an  amount  of  ore  per  year  be  guaranteed  sufficient  to  keep  the 
apparatus  employed.  Of  this  ore  enough  can  be  obtained  to 
load  several  vessels  a year.  This,  as  well  as  the  greater  part 
of  that  sent  to  San  Miguel,  is  shipped  in  English  vessels  from 
La  Union  and  Acajutla  to  England,  where  the  purchasers,  who 

N N 


562 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


have  exchanged  cheap  manufactured  goods  for  the  more  pre- 
cious commodity,  realize  large  fortunes  in  the  business.  I am 
convinced  that  a valuable  trade  is  yet  destined  to  grow  up  be- 
tween California  and  Central  America,  not  only  in  silver  and 
copper  ores,  but  in  vanilla,  dye-woods,  mahogany,  the  great  trop- 
ical staples,  and  a variety  of  precious  medicinal  plants  and  gums, 
all  of  which  may  be  monopolized  by  the  merchants  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

The  cargo  of  the  schooner  Julius  Pringle,  from  Realejo  and 
Amapala  to  California  in  1855,  consisted  in  part  of  “ 122  planks 
of  mahogany,  4 inches  thick,  and  from  12  to  15  inches  wide;  178 
planks  of  cedar,  or  bay  mahogany,  from  14  to  22  inches  wide, 
and  4 thick,  and  from  10  to  24  feet  long;  363  planks  ditto,  from 
14  to  18  inches  wide,  and  2 thick;  30  planks  ditto,  from  27  to  36 
inches  wide,  and  2 thick ; 80  boards,  from  27  to  36  inches  wide, 
and  1 inch  thick  ; 1233  boards  ditto,  14  to  22  inches  wide,  and  1 
thick.”  I give  these  dimensions  and  numbers  to  show  the  kind  of 
timber  produced  by  the  mills  of  Amapala  and  Chichigalpa.  This 
small  cargo  exhausted  the  entire  stock  on  hand  at  both  mills. 

A considerable  quantity  of  lumber  goes  from  both  places  to 
Peru  and  Bolivia. 

The  commercial  intercourse  between  Honduras  and  the  United 
States  is  based  upon  the  treaty  ratified  in  Washington  in  July, 
1826,  between  Don  Antonio  Jose  Canas,  minister  plenipoten- 
tiary of  the  Central  American  Republic  and  the  United  States. 
This  convention  was  celebrated  during  the  administration  of 
President  Manuel  Jose  Arce,  in  the  second  year  after  the  fall  of 
Iturbide. 

On  the  dissolution  of  the  Union  in  1838,  the  different  states 
tacitly  adopted  this  treaty  without  important  alterations.  The 
ports  of  Amapala  and  La  Brea  in  the  Gulf  of  Fonseca,  and  those 
of  Traxillo  and  Omoa  in  the  Caribbean  Sea,  have  since  been 
made  ports  of  entry,  in  addition  to  those  of  La  Union  and  Omoa, 
specified  as  entrepots  in  the  last  treaty.  The  port  of  Concor- 
dia, near  Acajutla,  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  San  Salvador,  was 
also  thrown  open  to  commerce  in  1853.  All  ports  recognized 
( habilitados ) by  the  laws  are  open  to  vessels  of  every  nation  at 
peace  with  the  republic,  and  manifesting  no  opposition  to  its  in- 
dependence. 


DUTIES  AND  IMPOSTS. 


563 


The  law  protects  all  merchandise  through  these  ports,  pro- 
vided that  the  regulations  of  the  tariff  are  complied  with,  and 
that  the  duties  which  it  imposes  are  paid.  The  articles  speci- 
fied as  duty  free  are  books  printed  or  in  manuscript,  bound  or 
stitched ; instruments  adapted  to  science ; music,  printed  or  in 
manuscript ; instruments  and  implements  of  agriculture,  mines, 
arts,  and  trades ; the  seeds  of  plants  not  cultivated  in  the  re- 
public ; gold  and  silver,  whether  in  bullion  or  coin.  The  mer- 
chant importing  coin  and  merchandise  in  the  same  vessel  is  al- 
lowed a deduction  of  two  per  cent,  upon  an  amount  of  merchan- 
dise equal  to  the  amount  of  coin. 

All  produce  of  every  nation  at  peace  with  the  republic  is  ad- 
mitted into  ports  of  entry.  The  exportation  of  live  cochineal 
and  of  semilla  de  xiquilite  (or  indigo  seed)  is  alone  prohibited 
by  the  treaty  of  1826.  The  restriction  probably  does  not  now 
apply  to  Honduras,  as  the  cochineal  is  not  extensively  culti- 
vated beyond  Guatemala  and  San  Salvador.  All  the  produce 
of  the  soil,  excepting  mahogany  and  dye-woods,  and  all  manu- 
factures of  the  republic,  are  free  of  export  duty,  as  is  also  all 
foreign  produce  and  merchandise,  provided  they  have  paid  the 
duty  on  importation  ; but  if  the  goods  have  not  been  reimport- 
ed from  some  other  port  of  the  republic,  they  will  pay  full  im- 
port duties.  Amapala  was  constituted  a free  port  in  1846,  the 
privilege  to  endure  for  ten  years  from  that  date.  The  now  ex- 
pired term  will  doubtless  be  renewed  at  an  ensuing  session  of 
the  Legislature. 

Honduras  has  lately  evinced  an  anxiety  to  cultivate  mercan- 
tile relations  with  Europe,  and  particularly  with  the  United 
States.  The  object  of  the  mission  of  Senor  Barrundia  in  1854 
was  to  throw  open  the  resources  of  the  state  to  the  enterprise 
of  the  American  people.  His  address  is  elsewhere  referred  to, 
and,  but  for  the  sudden  death  of  its  author,  would  doubtless  have 
led  to  important  results.  The  administration  of  Cabanas,  so 
eminently  progressive  and  liberal  in  its  tendency,  has,  unfortu- 
nately, been  overthrown  by  foreign  influence,  and  a reactionary 
policy  substituted,  which  seems  destined  to  reproduce  the  an- 
cient system  of  exclusion  and  anarchy. 

In  1853,  Central  American  exports  to  France,  as  shown  by 
the  Boletin  Oficial  of  Costa  Rica,  were  valued  at  1,252,565 


564 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


francs,  and  the  value  of  imports  from  the  same  country  at  86,902 
francs.  In  1854,  the  exports  to  the  same  were  982,871  francs, 
and  the  imports  1,166,741  francs.  The  disparity,  however,  is 
not  so  great  in  the  trade  with  Great  Britain. 

Cattle,  bullion,  sarsaparilla,  lumber,  hides,  deer-skins,  silver 
ore,  drugs,  gold  dust,  India-rubber,  cabinet  and  dye  woods, 
rice,  vanilla,  turtle-shell,  balsams,  coffee,  cochineal,  indigo,  cot- 
ton, cacao,  fruit,  sugar,  and  tobacco — all  in  irregular  and  often 
extremely  limited  quantities,  may  be  enumerated  as  the  articles 
of  export  from  both  coasts  of  Central  America,  but  the  ten 
first  mentioned  comprise  all  carried  from  the  sea-ports  of  Hon- 
duras. In  addition  to  these  might  be  added,  if  supported  by  a 
reasonable  amount  of  commercial  enterprise,  the  valuable  arti- 
cles of  horns,  hoofs,  tallow,  bees’-wax,  honey,  horses  and  mules 
(from  Olancho),  salt  beef  (from  the  same  department),  as  rec- 
ommended by  Mr.  Bayley  in  the  printed  guide  accompanying 
his  map,  and  even  cattle,  could  be  shipped  to  American  ports 
on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Large  quantities  of  native  cheese  arc 
also  sent  by  mule-trains  from  Olancho  (the  principal  place  of 
its  production)  to  the  other  departments  and  to  San  Salvador. 
The  cheese  of  the  valleys  of  Agalta  and  Uloa  is  reckoned  the 
best  produced  in  Central  America,  and  is  so  counted  by  Juarros 
and  Bayley.  It  is  coarse,  salt,  and  hard,  though  much  esteemed. 

In  exchange  for  the  above-named  exports  are  received  at 
Omoa  and  Truxillo,  from  England,  Jamaica,  Havana,  Balize, 
and  the  United  States,  sperm  candles,  soap,  shoes,  boots,  hard- 
ware, rigging,  cottons,  clothing,  cheap  manufactured  goods,  agri- 
cultural implements,  and  household  ware. 

In  the  works  of  Dunlop,  Henderson,  Dunn,  Thompson,  and 
others,  may  be  found  brief  statistics  of  the  trade  of  Central 
America,  but  so  limited  and  old  as  to  be  of  little  present  value. 
Correct  figures,  however,  are  with  difficulty  obtained,  as  the 
Diarios  and  Gacetas  in  which  such  accounts  are  published  are 
proverbially  inaccurate.  A series  of  articles,  the  results  of  per- 
sonal observation,  recently  published  by  one  of  the  editors  of  the 
Panama  Star  and  Herald , “ Costa  Rica,’’  by  the  German  natu- 
ralist and  traveler,  Dr.  Moritz  Wagner,  and  the  works  of  Mr.  E. 
G.  Squier,  are  the  most  reliable. 

While  at  Tigre  Island  I made  the  acquaintance  of  an  intelli- 


IMPORTS. 


565 


gent  American  gentleman,  who  for  ten  years  had  been  engaged 
in  mercantile  pursuits  in  San  Salvador,  Honduras,  and  Nicara- 
gua. At  my  request,  he  kindly  committed  to  paper  the  results 
of  his  experience,  which  are  here  inserted,  as  throwing  some 
light  upon  the  commercial  affairs  of  the  country.  In  relation 
to  the  trade  of  the  five  states,  he  states  that  it  is  only  within  the 
last  eight  years  that  commerce  has  been  extensively  conducted 
from  the  Pacific  side ; previous  to  that  time  the  great  depot  was 
in  Balize  and  Jamaica,  whence  most  of  the  merchandise  was  re- 
ceived. 

The  credit  extended  to  the  merchants  from  these  two  places 
was  very  great,  but,  with  the  settlement  of  California,  the  course 
of  trade  became  gradually  changed,  and  direct  importations  are 
made  from  the  factors  in  Europe,  although  the  merchants  of 
England  have  lately  curtailed  the  credit  system,  and  advanced 
the  rates  of  freights  from  $20  to  $25  and  $30  per  ton,  owing, 
probably,  to  the  high  rates  of  freight  to  Australia, 

The  commerce  of  the  United  States  with  Central  America 
would  have  been  much  enhanced  had  we  succeeded  in  making- 
good  and  sound  commercial  treaties,  the  staple  articles  of  con- 
sumption of  all  the  states  being  brown  sheetings,  brown  drills 
(called,  in  Spanish,  Mantalisa  and  Manta  drills),  which  in  the 
United  States  are  manufactured  much  better  than  in  England, 
where  less  cotton  can  be  spared  in  their  fabrication.  For  half 
a century,  the  English,  French,  and  Italians  have  enjoyed  a mo- 
nopoly of  the  lucrative  trade  with  the  Central  American  states. 
From  England  are  received  shirtings,  sheetings,  prints,  and  all 
cheap  manufactured  articles  (most  of  which  are  made  to  order, 
to  suit  the  trade),  cutlery,  ale,  cloths,  cassimeres,  and  earthen  and 
wooden  ware.  The  manufactured  goods  are  usually  of  the  most 
ordinary  kind.  From  Italy  are  imported  olives,  sweet  oil,  ver- 
micelli, sardines,  maccaroni,  green  cheese,  sausages,  silk  goods, 
and  many  minor  articles,  which  in  the  aggregate  form  a large 
importation.  From  France  come  vin  ordinaire , cognac,  silks, 
prints,  calico  dress-pattems,  cheese,  mustard,  gloves,  shoes,  cas- 
simeres, liquors,  &c.  From  California  are  imported  quicksilver 
(duty  free),  powder,  agricultural  implements,  machinery,  flour, 
potatoes,  preserved  meats,  pickles,  wine,  spirits,  furniture,  jewel- 
ry, clothing,  fire-arms,  boats,  oils,  &c. 


566 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Bice,  hides,  indigo,  tobacco,  silver  ore,  and  pure  silver  (pla- 
ta  bruta)  in  bars,  constitute  the  chief  exports  of  San  Salva- 
dor. The  production  of  indigo  varies  annually  as  to  quantity, 
owing  to  causes  over  which  the  producer  has  no  control;  but, 
from  statistics,  it  can  be  set  down,  for  the  last  seven  years,  at 
an  average  of  about  60,000  ceroons  (of  150  lbs.  net)  per  annum, 
at  a cost  to  the  purchaser  placed  in  La  Union  or  Sonsonate  (the 
two  principal  ports)  of  about  $90  the  ceroon,  including  all 
charges,  and  ready  to  ship  to  a foreign  market.  The  classifica- 
tion of  all  indigo  in  this  state  is  by  numbers,  No.  9,  or  “ Flores 
being  the  maximum,  and  No.  1 the  minimum — the  lowest  qual- 
ity or  dregs.  Indigo  forms  a medium  of  exchange  for  imported 
goods,  about  two  thirds  going  direct  to  England,  and  the  remain- 
der to  Guayaquil,  Valparaiso,  and  Germany.  The  merchants  of 
San  Miguel  generally  advance  to  the  producers  about  one  half 
the  value  of  the  crop.  In  the  European  markets,  Central  Amer- 
ican indigo  ranks  in  value  next  to  that  of  Bengal.  The  indigo 
crop  of  Guatemala  amounts  to  about  4000  bales  annually,  and 
from  12,000  to  15,000  bales  (of  100  lbs.)  of  cochineal.  From 
8000  to  10,000  quintals  of  tobacco  is  annually  shipped  to  Lima 
and  Valparaiso  from  La  Union  and  Sonsonate.  Of  the  entire 
crop  no  reliable  estimate  can  be  made,  though  the  article  is  a 
government  monopoly,  as  great  quantities  are  raised  clandestine- 
ly for  private  use. 

Eevenue  and  Monopolies. — The  same  deplorable  lack  of 
data  debars  the  arrival  at  any  reliable  estimate  of  the  revenue 
of  Honduras.  "With  every  political  change,  the  amounts  have 
been  altered  to  suit  the  views  of  the  temporary  rulers.  Among 
the  estancas,  or  government  monopolies  which  are  let  out  to 
the  highest  bidders,  are  the  manufacture  and  sale  of  tobacco, 
aguardiente,  and  the  right  to  open  '■'■patios  de  g alios,’'  or  cock- 
pits, during  funciones ; there  are  also  duties  on  the  exporting 
of  cattle,  mules,  and  horses,  and  such  commercial  imposts  as  are 
recited  elsewhere  in  this  chapter.  Another  source  of  revenue  to 
the  Spanish  colonial  government,  as  it  is  still  to  the  republican 
states,  was  the  issuing  of  sealed  or  stamped  paper,  known  as 
“ papel  sellaclo.”  Transfers  of  property,  grants,  mortgages,  and 
contracts  could  only  be  legally  made  on  this  paper,  which  is  sold 
at  the  office  of  the  Intendente  de  Hacienda  of  each  department 
at  the  following  standard  prices  : 


COINS  AND  CURRENCY. 


567 


Sello  Primero, 

it  it 

1st  class.... 
2d  “ .... 

....$16 
12 

Sello  Segundo 

“ Tercero 

u it 

3d  “ .... 

8 

“ Cuarto,  1st  class.. 

....1  real 

ct  (t 

4th  “ .... 

4 

« « 2d  “ 

....1  medio 

The  dollar  referred  to  is  of  copper,  rating  from  15  to  17  to 
the  “ duro ,”  or  silver  dollar.  Sometimes,  however,  these  are  re- 
ceived as  low  as  12  and  as  high  as  25  to  the  dollar,  as  the  abun- 
dance or  scarcity  of  copper  money  at  the  time  may  dictate. 
These  stamps  or  seals  were  renewed  every  two  years  under  the 
viceroyalty,  as  they  now  are  annually ; but  at  present  simply 
the  date  is  given,  with  no  attempt  at  ornament.  In  times  oi 
public  peril,  or  when  the  government  demands  funds  for  mili- 
tary purposes,  the  rates  are  increased  at  the  decree  of  the  exec- 
utive or  Legislature.  The  national  finances  are  also  augment- 
ed at  such  times  by  contributions  levied  upon  the  wealthiest  cit- 
izens, though  not  to  the  ruinous  extent  practiced  in  Nicaragua. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Coins  and  Currency. — Weights  and  Measures. — The  Department  of  Olancho. — 
The  Guayape  or  Patook  River. — Timber  Trees. — Cabinet  and  Dye  Woods. — 
Staple  Productions. — Wild  and  cultivated  Pruits. — Drugs,  Balsams,  and  me- 
dicinal Plants. 

Coins  and  Currency. — During  the  viceroyalty,  the  limited 
commerce  of  Central  America  was  conducted  on  the  basis  of  a 
provincial  currency  and  the  coins  of  the  Spanish  realm.  The 
first  are  rarely  met  with,  and  I saw  but  two  during  my  stay  in 
the  country.  After  the  Independence,  the  first  republican  mon- 
ey was  coined  in  1822  at  Guatemala,  and  all  subsequent  issues 
of  the  various  states,  up  to  the  disunion  in  1838,  appear  to  have 
been  made  under  the  republic.  From  that  period  each  state 
adopted  its  own  republican  currency,  but  retaining,  with  few  ex- 
ceptions, the  emblem  or  device  of  the  confederation — five  volcanic 
peaks  surmounted  by  a rising  sun.  There  was  also  the  rude  pro- 
vincial coin  known  as  macaco , or  cut  money,  which  appears  to 
have  been  chipped  from  thin  sheets  of  native  silver,  without  re- 
gard to  size  or  form,  and  afterward  reduced  to  standard  weights. 
A great  quantity  of  this  is  still  in  circulation.  Mexican,  Span- 
ish, and  all  South  American  doubloons  are  valued  at  $16,  and 


568 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


GOLD  AND  SILVER  COINS  OF  CENTRAL 
AMERICA. 


GOLD. 


Eight  Re.it.s,  $1.00. 


COINS  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 


569 


Real,  12  cts. 


570 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


the  silver  coins  of  both  continents  circulate  without  question  as 
to  their  relative  worth,  though  all  have  their  commercial  value 
at  the  custom-houses. 

But  the  principal  money  of  Honduras  is  a debased  copper 
coin  from  the  mint  of  Tegucigalpa,  the  first  issue  of  which  was 
made  under  the  state  government  immediately  after  the  disrup- 
tion of  the  republic.  Originally  this  contained  a proportion 
of  silver,  and  was  readily  received  by  the  people  as  a circula- 
ting medium,  under  the  name  of  “ Moneda  provisional  del  JEs- 
tado  de  Honduras ,”  stamped  around  its  circumference.  But, 
as  the  necessities  of  the  successive  governments  became  more 
urgent,  the  issues  were  vitiated,  until  at  present  they  are  but 
pure  copper.  These,  as  I have  before  remarked,  though  origi- 
nally passed  at  the  rate  of  sixteen  to  a silver  dollar,  with  the 
name  of  “joesos  de  cobre ” (copper  dollars),  have  now  depreci- 
ated to  half  that  nominal  value,  and  in  some  parts  of  the  state 
they  are  absolutely  refused.  Twenty  or  thirty  pounds  weight 
of  this  coin  is  often  passed  from  hand  to  hand  in  local  trade. 
It  follows  that  the  traveler  should  provide  himself  with  enough 
silver  change  to  meet  all  his  wants  when  passing  from  the  coast 
toward  the  large  towns  of  the  interior. 

Foreign  speculators,  in  later  years,  have  bought  up  all  of  the 
original  issues  for  the  silver  contained  in  them,  and  during  the 
administrations  of  Lindo  and  Cabanas  plans  were  proposed  for 
the  withdrawal  of  the  whole  debased  money  and  the  issue  of  a 
new  currency.  The  poverty  of  the  state  and  the  troublous  con- 
dition of  political  affairs  have  prevented  this  laudable  design. 
The  whole  was  to  have  been  recalled  by  a German  company, 
who  were  prepared  to  pay  the  state  a reasonable  percentage  for 
the  privilege.*  The  course  of  the  bullion  exported  from  Cen- 
tral America  is  shown,  by  the  few  data  in  existence,  to  have 
been  to  Spain,  England,  and  Germany.  The  amount  produced 

* The  public  debt  of  Honduras  is  due  principally  to  British  bondholders.  It 
is  stated  by  Seiior  Carlos  Gutierrez,  formerly  Under  Secretary  of  the  Treasury, 
to  be  $350,000.  A portion  of  this  is  the  debt  of  the  viceroyalty  and  the  old  re- 
public, which  was  afterward  assumed  pro  rata  by  the  states,  no  part  of  the  in- 
terest of  which,  as  relates  to  Honduras,  has  ever  been  paid.  The  same  authority 
estimates  the  revenues  of  the  state  at  $300,000,  and  the  annual  export  of  silver 
bullion  at  $500,000.  Some  small  indemnifications  for  damages  sustained  during 
the  wars  were  paid  to  native  claimants  in  1855,  by  pledging  the  customs,  but 
such  adjustments  are  extremely  rare. 


COINAGE. — MINING. 


571 


can  not  be  estimated,  owing  to  the  entire  absence  of  statistics, 
upon  which  to  base  any  approach  to  a reliable  statement.  In 
Chapter  XXV.  I have  imbodied  some  brief  facts  upon  this 
subject,  but  these  are  quite  unsatisfactory,  and  scarcely  merit 
the  space  allotted  to  them.  It  would  appear,  however,  that 
$6,004,214,  as  the  amount  of  gold  and  silver  coined  at  one 
mint  in  thirty  years,  might  be  believed,  when  contrasted  with 
the  recently-published  enormous  statements  of  the  coinage  of 
Mexico,  where  the  gold  and  silver  mines  wrere  of  a similar  de- 
scription, and  worked  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of  Central 
America.  A document  published  at  Mexico  in  1855  states  that 
there  was  struck  at  the  mint  of  Mexico,  in  1690,  coin  of  the 
value  of  five  million  piastres;  from  1700  to  1800,  during  a cen- 
tury, the  quantity  augmented  each  year,  and  at  last  reached 
twenty-five  millions  of  piastres.  This  was,  however,  the  culmi- 
nating point  of  the  annual  fabrication.  In  1810  it  was  reduced 
to  seventeen  millions;  in  1817  it  had  declined  to  only  half 
a million;  then  rose,  in  1838,  to  a million  and  a half;  in 
1850,  to  two  millions  ; in  1852,  to  two  millions  and  a half ; 
and  in  1854,  to  nearly  four  millions,  or  one  million  less  than  in 
1690. 

That  vast  sums  must  have  been  taken  from  the  mines,  we 
may  infer  from  the  numbers  of  Indian  laborers  who,  in  the 
viceroyalty  of  Guatemala,  were  obliged  to  work  as  slaves  in  the 
mines  of  all  the  states.  Juarros,  quoting  Fuentes,  states  that 
in  the  valley  of  Sensenti,  in  Honduras,  an  alcalde  mayor  was 
appointed  to  receive  the  king’s  fifths  of  the  products  of  incredi- 
bly rich  gold  mines,  in  which  slaves  were  employed,  and  that 
this  officer  had  the  power  of  compelling  one  fourth  of  the  In- 
dians within  a circuit  of  twelve  leagues  to  labor  in  them.  It  is 
also  stated  by  Rev.  G.  W.  Bridges,  who  has  written  upon  the 
history  of  Jamaica  and  the  adjacent  main  land,  that  “ a million 
Indians  perished  in  the  service  of  the  conquerors  in  working  the 
mines  of  Honduras.”*  It  is  thus  evident  that,  during  the  period 
above  referred  to  in  Mexico,  a sum  not  much  inferior  must  have 
been  extracted  from  the  mines  of  the  kingdom  of  Guatemala. 
The  neglect  shown  by  the  Spaniards  in  matters  of  record  and 
statistics  is  most  forcibly  illustrated  by  Humboldt’s  estimate 

* Annals  of  Jamaica,  vol.  ii.,  p.  129. 


572 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


of  the  gold  and  silver  product  of  Guatemala  (Central  America), 
against  which  he  sets  “ none.” 

Comparatively  a small  portion  of  the  gold  and  silver  taken 
from  the  mines  was  coined  in  the  country,  if  we  may  judge  by 
the  limited  amount  of  colonial  money  now  in  circulation.  Much 
more  than  would  be  supposed  from  the  primitive  habits  of  the 
people  has  been  worked  into  jewelry,  for  the  mounting  of  sad- 
dles and  other  ornamental  purposes.  Considerable  quantities 
of  Guayape  gold  are  also  annually  exchanged  for  foreign  manu- 
factured goods  at  the  fair  of  San  Miguel. 

American  gold  is  received  without  hesitation  in  the  principal 
towns,  but  is  regarded  with  suspicion  in  the  villages  and  along 
the  road,  there  being  a general  distrust  of  its  purity.  English 
and  all  European  gold  and  silver  is  more  current.  Spanish, 
Mexican,  and  South  American  ounces  (doubloons)  are  better 
known,  but  it  is  difficult  to  exchange  any  large  gold  coin  except 
in  the  capitals  and  local  commercial  centres  of  departments. 

A pamphlet  printed  by  the  Academia  Literaria  at  Teguci- 
galpa in  1853,  entitled  “ Conocimientos  Utiles ,”  contains  the  fol- 
lowing, in  relation  to  the  relative  value  of  coins  in  Honduras  : 

The  ounce  (onza)  contains  4 doblones  (not  doubloons),  and  is  valued  at  $16. 


“ doblon  “ 2 escudos  (crowns),  “ “ 4. 

“ escudo  (de  k real) 2. 

“ escudo  (de  a medio) 1. 


“ peso  (dollar  of  silver)  contains  2 tostones  or  8 reales. 

“ toston  contains  2 pesetas  or  4 reales. 

“ peseta  “ 2 reales  or  4 medios. 

“ real  “ 2 medios  or  4 cuartillos. 

“ cuartillo  “ 2 octavos. 

In  the  payment  of  commercial  duties,  the  dollar  and  its  frac- 
tions is  received  as  in  the  United  States.  The  franc  is  valued 
and  received  at  19  cents,  or  1|-  real,  and  a quarter  of  an  octavo, 
5 francs  being  thus  valued  at  7^  reales  and  lj  octavos.  The 
pound  sterling  ( libra  esterlina)  is  valued  at  37  reales,  the  shil- 
ling (English)  at  If  real. 

An  ounce  of  pure  silver  is  divided  into  12  dineros,  and  this 
into  24  granos.  An  ounce  of  coined  silver  ( plata  acunada) 
should  contain  10  dineros  and  20  grains  of  pure  silver,  and  28 
grains  of  copper.  This  is  the  “ lei  de  la  moneda .” 

Weights  and  Measures. — These  are  founded  on  the  Span- 


WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES.  573 

ish  system,  as  is  tlie  case  in  most  Spanish- American  countries. 
The  commercial  weight  is — 

The  quintal  contains  4 arrobas  = 100  pounds. 

“ arroba  “ 25  pounds  (libras). 

“ libra  “ 16  ounces  (onzas)=(l  lb.  4 drs.  avoirdupois). 

“ onza  “ 16  adarmes  (8  drachms). 

“ adarme  “ 16  grains  (granos). 

The  libra  also  contains  2 marcs  (marcos). 

“ marco  “ 8 onzas. 

“ onza  “ 4 quartas. 

“ quarta  “ 4 artienzos. 

“ artienzo  “ 39  granos  (grains). 

There  are  also  distinct  weights  for  gold,  as  follows  : 

1 libra  contains  2 marcos. 

1 marco  “ 8 onzas. 

1 onza  “ 6 Castellanos  and  2 tomines. 

1 tomin  “ 12  granos. 

Thus  an  ounce  of  gold  is  divided  into  50  tomines  or  600 
granos.  The  Troy  weight  is  invariably  used  in  weighing  silver. 
The  “ caballeria,”  as  understood  in  Central  America,  is  645, 816^ 
square  yards  ; its  length  is  1136|  varas,  and  its  width  568£  va- 
ra s.  The  term  is  said  to  have  originated  with  the  early  set- 
tlers, who,  in  default  of  scientific  surveyors,  designated  as  “ ca- 
ballerias”  sections  of  land  that  could  be  encompassed  by  a swift 
horse  in  a given  time.  In  long  measure  the  league  is  divided 
into  3 miles  or  4 quartos,  or  6666  varas  and  2 tercias,  and  the 
mile  into  2222  varas  and  6 dedos.  A manzana  is  400  varas  of 
circumference.  The  vara,  or  yard  (of  cloth  measure),  is  divided 
into  medias,  tercias,  cuartas,  sesmas,  ocharas,  pulgadas,  and  de- 
dos ; it  has  4 palmos,  or  33.384  inches ; the  palmo  has  9 pul- 
gadas, or  8-3-  inches  ; the  pulgada,  or  inch,  has  12  limas  ; 4 dedos 
are  equal  to  3 pulgadas  ; the  pie,  or  foot,  has  11.128  inches  ; 2£ 
varas  are  equal  to  a toise,  or  French  yard,  and  a vara  and  12 
dedos  to  the  French  ell.  In  dry  measure  the  caliz  has  12  fa- 
negas  or  144  celemines  ; the  fanega,  1.599  bushel : the  cele- 
mine  is  divided  into  halves,  quarters,  etc.  In  liquid  measure 
there  is  the  botta,  equal  to  30  arrobas  ; the  moyo,  equal  to  16 
arrobas;  and  the  azumbre,  8 of  which  (or  32  quartillos)  are  equal 
to  an  arroba.  The  arroba  of  wine  is  4.245  gallons  English  ; 
the  arroba  of  oil,  3|  gallons  ditto.  These,  which  are  mainly 


574 


EXPLORATION S IN  HONDURAS. 


obtained  from  the  Spanish  tables,  are  corrupted  in  various  parts 
of  the  state,  each  department  having  its  local  names,  some  of 
which  are  mixed  with  the  Indian  language,  the  inhabitants  of 
one  section  scarcely  comprehending  the  terms  used  in  another. 
General  Observations  on  the  Department  of  Olan- 

CHO,  AND  THE  GuAYAPE  OR  PATOOK  RlVER. Olancho,  though 

an  integral  portion  of  the  republic  of  Honduras,  is  so  far  re- 
moved from  the  central  government,  and  geographically  sepa- 
rated from  the  rest  of  the  state,  as  to  have  become,  in  some  re- 
spects, a republic  of  itself,  being  virtually  ruled  by  a number  of 
ancient  and  rather  aristocratic  families.  The  population,  cen- 
tring in  the  interior  table-lands,  extends  in  unnumbered  ha- 
ciendas and  pastoral  villages  nearly  to  the  lowest  terrace  of  the 
Cordilleras,  and  consists  of  a similar  distinction  of  classes  as  is 
presented  by  Central  America  generally.  These  comprise  the 
descendants  of  the  early  Spanish  settlers  (who  have,  perhaps, 
preserved  their  purity  of  blood  more  rigidly  than  in  any  other 
part  of  the  state) ; the  reduced  or  converted  Indians  (a  peaceable 
and  industrious  race,  occupying  Catacamas  and  several  smaller 
towns) ; the  wandering  uncivilized  tribes  inhabiting  the  mount- 
ain solitudes  and  coast  savannas  ; the  Caribs,  or  Coast  Indians, 
and  a considerable  number  of  negroes,  mulattoes,  and  mestizos. 
The  population  may  be  placed  at  50,000,  about  one  tenth  of 
whom  are  whites,  six  tenths  Indians,  and  the  remainder  mesti- 
zos and  mulattoes. 

Olancho  comprises  not  far  from  a third  of  Honduras.  It  is 
considerably  larger  than  the  Central  American  republics  of  Cos- 
ta Rica  or  San  Salvador,  and  is  superior  to  either  in  the  variety 
of  its  productions,  which  may  be  found  enumerated  in  Chapter 
XXIX.  It  extends  through  three  degrees  of  longitude  and 
two  of  latitude,  embracing  about  12,000  square  miles  of  terri- 
tory, and  has  not  less  than  200  miles  of  sea-coast. 

The  department  is  divided  from  the  adjoining  one  of  Yoro  by 
the  Poyas,  or  Black  River,  and  by  a line  intersecting  its  head- 
waters in  the  valley  of  Olanchito,  and  extending  in  a south- 
westerly direction  to  the  continuous  chain  of  mountains  known 
as  the  Salto  and  Campamento  ranges,  which  also  separate  it  on 
the  west  from  the  Department  of  Tegucigalpa.  These  lines  are 
understood  in  elections  as  the  departmental  boundaries  ; no  sur- 


OLANCHO. 


575 


veys  have  ever  been  made,  and  the  divisions  are  simply  geo- 
graphical ones.  The  Wanks,  or  great  river  of  Segovia,  which 
is  also  the  dividing  line  between  Honduras  and  Nicaragua, 
forms  the  southern  boundary  of  Olancho. 

In  the  interior,  the  Spanish  settlements  are  divided  into  the 
municipalities  of  Jutecalpa,  Santa  Maria  del  Real,  Silca,  Manto, 
Salaman,  Guayape,  San  Francisco  de  la  Paz,  San  Estevan, 
Gualaco,  Yocon,  Concordia,  and  San  Cristoval  de  Catacamas, 
the  jurisdiction  of  each  of  which  extends  over  the  adjacent  vil- 
lages. The  inhabitants  are  hospitable,  and  more  prosperous 
than  in  any  other  part  of  the  state.  Many  hacendados  arc 
wealthy,  owning  large  tracts  of  grazing  ground,  and  untold  num- 
bers of  cattle,  horses,  and  mules.  I saw  in  Olancho  fewer  in- 
stances of  extreme  poverty  and  beggary  than  in  the  other  de- 
partments of  Honduras.  The  uncivilized  tribes  are  governed 
by  no  political  organization,  and  have  their  own  simple  laws, 
with  which  the  Spanish  authorities  have  never  attempted  to  in- 
terfere. 

The  topography  and  climate  have  already  been  sufficient!}' 
alluded  to.  The  country  is  drained  by  numerous  rivers,  some 
of  which  are  the  scene  of  mahogany-cutting  enterprises.  The 
principal  one  is  the  Guayape  or  Patook ; and  as  one  of  the  ob- 
jects of  my  visit  was  to  ascertain  if  this  could  be  navigated,  a 
brief  abstract  of  the  most  reliable  information  I could  collect 
may  prove  of  interest. 

The  Guayape  (from  guayagpin , an  Indian  female  robe)  is  the 
most  important  river  of  Olancho,  and,  after  leaving  the  plateaus 
of  the  interior,  widens  into  one  of  the  largest  in  Central  Ameri- 
ca. It  rises  in  the  Campamento  Mountains  (where  it  may  be 
traced  a mere  brook,  with  the  name  of  Guayapita),  increasing  in 
size  until  it  enters  the  picturesque  valleys  of  Lepaguare  and 
Galeras.  Being  joined  by  the  Concordia,  Chifilingo,  Moran, 
Espana,  and  other  mountain  streams,  it  winds  toward  the  Ca- 
inasca  hills  through  a nearly  deserted  country,  and  passes  the 
city  of  Jutecalpa  within  about  four  miles,  receiving  near  by  the 
waters  of  the  Rio  de  Jutecalpa,  upon  which  the  city  is  built. 
The  Guayape  here  flows  through  a great  plain.  Following  the 
base  of  several  ranges  that  intersect  the  otherwise  level  country, 
it  is  increased,  at  a point  ten  miles  below  Jutecalpa,  by  the  Ja- 


576 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


Ian,  a considerable  stream,  rising  in  the  mountains  to  the  south- 
ward. The  river,  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Jalan,  flows  among 
open  copses,  undulating  plains,  and  small,  dome-like  spurs,  mak- 
ing from  the  hills  down  toward  its  course,  and  terminating  in 
craggy  banks,  from  which  masses  of  stone  have  fallen  to  obstruct 
navigation.  Canoes,  however,  frequently  pass  from  Jutecalpa 
up  to  the  hamlet  of  Aleman,  but  this  route  is  for  the  most  part 
disused,  there  being  a practicable  road  or  mule-trail  between  the 
two  places. 

Below  the  Jalan  the  Guayape  loses  its  turbulent  character, 
and  becomes  a silent  but  swift  river,  being  generally  free  from 
rocks  in  the  place  where  I visited  it,  and  during  the  rainy  sea- 
son offering  apparently  an  unobstructed  navigation  for  light- 
draft  vessels.  In  riding  along  the  banks,  intervening  ranges 
and  impenetrable  woods  often  obliged  us  to  make  detours,  and 
thus  large  spaces  of  the  river  were  not  examined ; but  conver- 
sations with  the  Indians  and  mahogany-cutters  warrant  a simi- 
lar description  of  the  river  down  to  where  it  is  joined  by  the 
Guayambre.  This  conclusion  is  favored  by  the  Guayape  pass- 
ing for  that  distance  through  a generally  level  country,  and  be- 
ing augmented  by  numerous  small  rivers. 

The  distance  from  the  confluence  of  the  Guayape  and  Guay- 
ambre to  the  Caribbean  Sea  is  stated  by  Sehor  Ocampo,  who 
lias  frequently  passed  from  his  mahogany-cuttings  to  the  coast, 
to  be  180  miles.  A small  manuscript  description  of  the  river, 
written  by  him  at  my  request,  says,  “ The  Guallape  is  naviga- 
ble from  the  confluence  of  the  Guayambre  to  the  sea,  a distance 
of  sixty  leagues  by  the  ‘ vueltas  del  rid  (river  windings).  In 
the  season  of  the  rains,  we  pass  with  rafts  of  mahogany  from 
the  rivers  Jalan  and  Guayambre  into  the  Guallape,  which  we 
continue  to  call  by  that  name  down  as  far  as  the  Rio  de  Taba- 
co,  which  enters  from  the  south.  The  river  is  broad,  but  has 
several  chiflones  (rapids),  which  in  summer,  during  low  stages 
of  water,  impede  navigation  from  the  mouth  of  the  Guayambre 
to  a few  miles  below  the  Rio  de  Tabaco.  From  this  point  the 
river  assumes  the  name  of  Patook,  and  below  this  there  are  nei- 
ther dangerous  rapids  nor  sunken  rocks,  though  the  river  de- 
scends with  great  velocity,  often  cutting  abruptly  through  hilly 
and  broken  country/’ 


OLANCHO. 


577 


From  verbal  descriptions,  I ascertained  that  the  space  included 
between  the  Guayambre  and  the  Corriente  de  Caoba  is  about 
thirty  miles  by  the  windings  of  the  river,  and  in  that  space  are 
apparently  the  only  obstructions  to  navigation  between  the  plain 
of  Jutecalpa  and  the  sea.  No  falls  appear  to  exist,  but  rather 
rapids,  resembling  those  of  Machucha  and  Mico,  on  the  San 
Juan.  These,  however,  must  be  exceedingly  violent  during  the 
floods,  when  the  mahogany-cutters  commence  rafting  their  logs. 
After  passing  the  mouth  of  the  Guayambre,  the  rafts  float  for 
about  a mile  without  hinderance  until  they  approach  the  chi- 
Jlones  of  Campaneros,  Mangos,  and  Aguacaliente,  occupying 
nearly  a mile  of  the  river.  These  show  several  large,  high 
rocks  in  summer,  which  are  covered  during  the  floods,  and  here 
the  pipantes  of  the  natives  are  sometimes  capsized  by  getting 
broadside  to  the  current,  while  the  occupants  are  attempting  to 
guide  the  logs  through  the  deep  passages.  The  banks  are  pre- 
cipitous and  wooded,  and  the  bottom  lined  with  rocks,  which  the 
action  of  the  river  has  undermined  and  tumbled  into  its  bed. 
Small  steamers,  such  as  are  used  on  the  San  Juan,  might  pass 
without  danger,  if  managed  by  a skillful  pilot. 

The  Guayape  then  flows  quietly  a few  miles,  when  it  con- 
tracts between  precipitous  banks,  and  passes  rapidly  through 
what  is  known  as  the  Cajon  Grande  (Great  Box),  or  Puerto 
de  Delon.  This  place  seems  to  be  only  formidable  to  the  rafts- 
men from  the  velocity  of  the  water.  Three  miles  below  the 
Guayape  takes  a sudden  bend,  forming  a right  angle,  the  lower 
bank  presenting  a face  of  bare  granite,  against  which  the  river 
plunges  with  great  force,  and,  recoiling,  meets  the  descending 
current,  which  creates  a violent  whirlpool  of  tossing  waves, 
known  as  El  Molino  (The  Mill),  or  Cajoncito  (Little  Box). 
The  greatest  care  is  necessary  to  guide  the  rafts  past  these  rap- 
ids, which  Senor  Ocampo  represents  as  the  most  dangerous  on 
the  river.  He  was  once  capsized  here  in  a jpipante,  and  only 
saved  by  the  skill  of  his  Indian  boatmen.  He  thinks  a river 
steamer  would  find  no  difficulty  in  passing  this  place.  The 
rivers  Gineo  and  Tabaco  fall  into  the  Guayape  between  eight 
and  ten  miles  below,  and  four  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  lat- 
ter is  encountered  the  Corriente  de  Caoba , or  Mahogany  Rap- 
ids. The  river  has  here  acquired  a volume  which  passes  the 

Oo 


578 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


rafts  without  danger,  and  from  this  point  the  natives  drop  the 
name  of  Guayape  (or  Guallape)  for  that  of  Patook.  The  pi- 
pantes,  described  in  Chapter  XIX.,  are  from  five  to  seven 
days  on  the  route  from  Jutecalpa  to  the  sea.  From  sixteen  to 
twenty  days  are  occupied  in  ascending  the  river. 

The  Patook  is  augmented  for  the  rest  of  the  distance  by 
several  rivers,  described  as  sufficiently  deep  to  be  navigated  by 
keel  vessels.  The  names  of  the  principal  ones  taking  their 
rise  in  the  ranges  which  divide  the  great  plains  of  the  Patook 
from  those  of  the  Wanks  or  Segovia  I was  unable  to  obtain. 
The  two  largest  flowing  from  the  northward  are  the  Cuyamel 
and  Wampu.  The  river  discharges  by  two  mouths,  the  princi- 
pal one  being  at  Point  Patook,  and  the  lesser  into  Brewer’s  La- 
goon. The  first  is  described  as  having  a shallow,  sandy  bar, 
through  which  makes  a channel,  having  in  the  summer  season 
from  five  to  seven  feet,  as  the  violence  of  the  wind  and  surf 
cause  it  to  shift,  fill  up,  or  deepen,  and  in  the  winter  or  during 
the  floods  from  nine  to  eleven.  Mahogany  traders  anchor  about 
half  a mile  outside  the  bar  to  receive  their  cargoes,  and  are  al- 
ways prepared  to  slip  and  gain  an  offing  should  the  weather 
threaten  one  of  the  sudden  northers  peculiar  to  these  regions. 
It  is  possible  that  at  spring-tides  the  water  may  deepen  to  four- 
teen feet  on  the  bar.  A volume  of  water  passes  out  during  the 
floods  so  great  as  to  discolor  the  sea  for  some  miles.  Captain 
Countess,  commanding  his  majesty’s  sloop  Porcupine  in  1786-7, 
thus  describes  the  delta:  “ From  Black  River  to  Cape  Gracias 
a Dios  we  kept  along  the  shore,  sounding  in  from  seven  to  ten 
fathoms.  Off  Patook  River,  which  lies  at  a considerable  dis- 
tance from  Black  River,  we  observed  the  fresh  water,  where  it 
joined  the  sea,  form  a distinct  line  as  far  as  we  could  see,  being 
brown  and  muddy,  and  had  the  appearance  of  a shoal.  When 
in  it,  we  found  the  water  nearly  fresh.  At  the  time  of  this 
alarming  appearance  there  was  a flood  in  the  river.”  Little  is 
known  of  the  mouth  of  the  Patook ; the  only  persons  who,  from 
actual  observation,  are  able  to  speak  of  it,  are  Indians  and  ne- 
groes, or  the  few  Balize  traders  in  mahogany  and  dye-woods, 
who  have  probably  never  given  a thought  to  the  river  or  the 
unknown  interior  whence  it  flows. 

The  arm  or  lesser  mouth  by  which  the  river  discharges  into 


PRODUCTIONS. 


579 


Brewer’s  Lagoon  is  stated  to  be  little  inferior  in  size  to  the  other. 
For  many  years  a collection  of  driftwood  has  formed  a perma- 
nent raft  near  where  it  enters  the  lagoon.  This  extends  entirely 
across  the  river,  and  sustains  a growth  of  trees  and  parasitical 
vines  resembling  the  main  land : the  Indians  haul  their  canoes 
across  this  when  bound  to  the  little  settlement  below.  The  tide 
ebbs  and  flows  under  it,  and  at  times  the  whole  has  been  over- 
flowed without  disturbing  its  matted  solidity.  A plan  has  been 
proposed  by  a number  of  Balize  traders  for  the  removal  of  this 
raft,  as  a tree  passage  into  the  lagoon  would  greatly  facilitate 
the  transportation  and  loading  of  mahogany. 

The  body  of  water  known  as  Brewer’s  Lagoon  is  separated 
from  the  sea  by  a narrow  strip  of  land  and  rock  scarcely  a mile 
in  width.  The  inlet  is  about  fifteen  miles  long  by  five  or  six 
wide,  and  has  several  small  islands,  the  resort  of  the  coast  In- 
dians for  fish,  which  abound  among  the  rocks  skirting  them. 
One  of  these  is  said  to  have  been  originated  in  the  seventeenth 
century ; the  anchor  of  a pirate  vessel  being  left  there,  it 
caught  the  passing  driftwood,  until,  in  the  lapse  of  years,  it  be- 
came an  island,  constantly  increased  by  alluvial  deposits.  The 
anchorage  is  described  as  good,  and  the  water  of  sufficient  depth 
to  admit  vessels  di'awing  ten  feet.  The  channel  to  the  sea  is 
near  the  “ spit”  or  point,  between  which  and  the  main  land  the 
passage  is  extremely  narrow.  Its  depth  is  said  to  be  about 
equal  to  that  at  Point  Patook.  Brewer’s  Lagoon  might  be  made 
a depot  for  commerce  with  the  Spanish  settlements,  could  com- 
munication be  re-established  with  the  main  Patook,  and  suffi- 
cient energy  be  manifested  in  the  interior  to  warrant  the  enters 
prise. 

Natural  Productions. — A simple  enumeration  of  the  best- 
known  woods,  plants,  and  fruits  of  Central  America  is  perhaps 
the  most  comprehensive  method  of  setting  forth  its  vast  natural 
resources,  which,  with  few  exceptions,  are  common  alike  to  each 
of  the  states.  The  subjoined  list  by  no  means  comprises  the 
rare  botanical  treasures  of  Honduras.  Specimens  of  most  of 
those  mentioned  are  now  in  my  possession  or  have  passed  under 
my  observation;  others  have  been  obtained  by  personal  inquiry, 
and  compiled  from  the  best  authorities.  The  field  presented 
throughout  the  country,  in  every  department  of  natural  science, 


580 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


is  yet  untrodden,  and  not  excelled  in  America  for  interest  and 
variety.  Forests  of  valuable  woods,  and  exhaustless  indigenous 
fruits  and  drugs,  remain  silent  and  unclaimed  as  at  the  creation. 

A short  journey  from  regions  teeming  with  rank  vegetation 
and  every  tropical  product  brings  the  traveler  among  the  fruits 
of  the  temperate  zone,  where,  in  modest  contrast  to  mangoes, 
oranges,  and  bananas,  swelled  by  torrid  heats  into  golden  matu- 
rity, cluster  the  less  luscious  but  more  familiar  peach,  cherry, 
and  apple  of  the  North.  Here  the  cereals  common  to  New  En- 
gland rustle  their  sheaves  in  the  breeze,  and  gaunt  pines  and  up- 
land oaks,  draped  in  sober  habiliments  of  lichens  and  moss, 
sway  in  the  mountain  gales. 

Every  variety  of  climate,  generally  avoiding  the  distressing 
extremes  of  each,  is  included  within  the  limits  of  Honduras,  and 
here  may  be  cultivated  a large  majority  of  the  natural  produc- 
tions known  to  man.  At  an  elevation  of  3500  to  5000  feet 
above  the  sea,  wheat  reaches  a remarkable  degree  of  perfection. 
Rice,  on  the  upland  plateaus,  without  submersion,  beans,  corn, 
potatoes,  squashes,  and  all  garden  vegetables,  flourish,  while  the 
wild  rose,  morning-glory,  and  other  familiar  flowers  grow  spon- 
taneously, or  are  cultivated  in  many  localities.  The  blackberry 
vine  and  sensitive-plant  clamber  among  the  rocks  or  spread  over 
the  grassy  slopes,  and  the  stranger,  as  he  faces  the  norther  that 
whistles  keenly  through  the  gorges  of  the  sierras,  can  scarcely 
realize  that  he  is  within  the  tropics,  and  almost  in  sight  of  the 
region  of  the  palm  and  plantain,  and  the  green  foliage  of  the 
coffee,  sugar-cane,  cacao,  and  indigo  plants.  It  is  here  that  Na- 
ture, robed  in  her  fairest  garb,  seems  to  have  fascinated  the  in- 
heritors of  her  charms  into  listless  inaction  with  the  very  excess 
of  beauty. 

To  the  agriculturist,  the  merchant,  the  scientific  explorer,  or 
the  aimless  adventurer,  Honduras,  rich  in  natural  advantages, 
throws  open  her  portals,  and  offers  to  the  world  a share  in  those 
treasures  that  only  wait  the  magic  touch  of  Industry  to  reward 
the  labors  of  all.  A brief  sketch  of  the  most  common  produc- 
tions of  the  soil,  considering  in  turn  the  richly-grained  cabinet 
timber  of  commerce,  the  precious  drugs  of  the  pharmacist,  and 
dye-woods,  balsams,  and  fruits,  many  of  them  almost  unknown 
beyond  the  obscure  region  of  their  origin,  will  partly  serve  to 


PRODUCTIONS. 


581 


illustrate  their  variety,  and  perhaps  lead  to  their  future  special 
discussion. 

Timber,  and  Cabinet  and  Dye-woods. — Algarbo  (hard 
and  red-colored),  alcornoque  (cork-tree),  aguacate  (alligator  pear- 
tree),  achote  (heart-leaved  bixa),  algodonezo  (see  ceiba),  alga- 
gia,  alinendrillo  (almond-tree),  amarilla  de  Guayaquil  (both  used 
for  building),  bamboo  (sappan-tree?),  barablanca,  buttonwood, 
boxwood,  birds’-eye  maple,  carne  tuelo  (black  thorn-tree),  cedro 
(cedar,  black  and  red),  ceiba  (silk-cotton-tree,  JBombax  Ceiba ), 
cayelac  (sweet-scented  wood),  caoba  (mahogany-tree),  cedro  es- 
pino,  cedro  amargo,  cedro  cebollo  (varieties  of  a hard,  durable 
wood ; not  the  cedar),  cedro  pasaya,  cedro  bueno  (varieties  of 
the  red  cedar),  cocolobo,  cocobello?  (very  hard,  durable,  and  beau- 
tiful, much  used  in  cabinet-making),  cano  bianco  (used  in  mak- 
ing laths),  cubo,  cope  (rarely  used  for  building),  carbon  (char- 
coal-tree), copal-tree,  copaiba-tree,  copaljocol  (bearing  a small, 
cherry-like  fruit),  camwood,  cacique  or  macano  (very  durable), 
cristobal,  chiraca,  caray  (tortoise-shell-wood),  cottonwood,  cor- 
rotu,  ebano  (ebony),  espino  bianco,  espino  amarillo,  espino  ne- 
gro (varieties  of  the  buckthorn),  espabe,  esquinsuche,  encina 
(evergreen  oak),  eboe  algrova,  fustic-tree,  guayaco  or  guaya- 
can  (lignum  vitaj-tree,  Guaiacum),  guayabilla  (wild  guava-tree), 
guapinol,  guachipalin  (hard  and  beautifully  variegated),  grana- 
dilla  (black,  and  very  hard  and  durable),  guanacaste  (very  large, 
and  easily  worked),  guajinijili,  indio  desnudo,  ijerilla,  jisote,  ju- 
chicopal,  lima  wood,  locust,  lechemaria,  liquidamber-tree,  ma- 
teare,  madiera  negra  (used  to  shelter  the  young  trees  on  cacao 
estates),  malvecino,  mangle  (mangrove),  mangle  Caballero  (af- 
fords good  timber),  mora  (yellow  and  hard),  manzanilla,  man- 
zanito,  mohoe  (or  Altluea),  madrono  (wild  strawberry-tree),  man- 
zanita,  madre  cacao,  madrona  de  montana,  naraco  nigrito,  nis- 
pero  (de  montana  and  real),  nazareno  (very  beautiful),  naran- 
gito,  palo  negro,  palo  amarillo,  palo  santo,  palo  penca  (rope- 
tree),  palo  de  vala,  palo  de  rosa  (rosewood),  palo  Campeche  (log- 
wood), palo  de  Nicaragua  (Nicaragua  wood,  a species  of  Brasil- 
ia), paraiso,  palma  (palm  of  many  varieties),  palma  Christi, 
quebracha  (or  palo  hacha,  a species  of  ironwood),  quiza  (fine- 
grained and  difficult  to  work),  quipo  (laurel),  roble  (oak),  ronron 
(a  very  beautiful  cabinet  wood,  fine-grained,  and  striped  with 


582 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  HONDURAS. 


red  and  yellow),  reseda  (a  species  of  rosewood),  sapodillo,  satin- 
wood,  sancuya,  Santa  Maria,  San  Juan  (red  and  yellow  grained), 
sumac,  sapote,  sabina  (savin),  sumwood,  sauce  (willow),  taray 
(hard  and  fine-grained),  torro  (beautiful,  and  much  used  in  cab- 
inet-work), tamarindo  (tamarind-tree),  tiucinte,  totuna,  ule,  or 
caoutchouc  (India-rubber-tree),  zebra  wood. 

Staple  Productions. — Coffee,  casava,  cacao  (cocoa),  choco- 
late, cochineal,  cotton,  corn,  indigo,  India-rubber,  pita  (Sisal 
hemp  or  jenican),  rice,  sugar-cane,  tobacco,  wheat. 

Wild  and  Cultivated  Fruits. — Anona  (custard  apple), 
albaricoque  (apricot),  aguacate  (alligator  pear),  anchovy  pear,  al- 
godon  silvestre  (wild  cotton  or  silk),  alberchigo  (peach,  Amyg- 
dalus  Mersica),  bread-fruit,  cocoanut,  citron,  coroso,  chirimoya, 
cereza  (cherry),  cayonito,  cotoperice,  ciruela  (nectarine),  cidra 
(a  species  of  aromatic  wild  lemon),  camote,  durazno  (peach), 
granada  (pomegranate),  granadilla  (wild  pomegranate),  guayaba 
(guava),  gineo  (banana),  guanava  (soursop),  guacal  (mammoth 
calabash),  higo  (fig),  higuerra  (calabash),  jocote  (wild  plum),  ji- 
caro  (a  dwarf  calabash),  limone,  lima  (lime),  melone,  maranon, 
manzana  rosada  (rose  apple),  mamaya  ( Mammee  Sapota,  mam- 
me-apple),  mango,  melocoton  (in  Spanish,  the  common  peach, 
but  applies  in  Central  America  to  an  indigenous  fruit  resem- 
bling a large  peach),  manzanita  (a  small  acidulous  fruit  resem- 
bling the  cherry),  mora  (local  name  for  the  blackberry),  mem- 
brillo  (quince),  manzana  (common  apple),  nispero,  naranja  (or- 
ange), olive,  ocumo,  platino  (plantain),  papaya  (fruit  of  the  pa- 
paw-tree),  pina  (pine-apple  of  three  varieties),  pipaya,  pera  (pear), 
prisco  (species  of  plum),  perone,  pitahaya,  pejibayo,  sandilla  (wa- 
termelon), uva  (grape),  vegetable  ivory,  zapote  or  mamey  (Za- 
j>ote  Mamey). 

Drugs,  Medicinal  Plants,  and  Precious  Gums.* — Aloes, 

* L'Assemblee  Rationale  of  October  1st,  1855,  in  its  description  of  the  Great 
Exhibition  in  that  year  at  Paris,  refers  to  the  botanical  collection  forwarded  by 
the  government  and  “ Sociedad  Economica”  of  Guatemala.  The  samples  were 
not  accompanied  by  the  botanical  names,  or  descriptive  marks  or  notes,  but  was 
considered  a rare  contribution.  Of  cabinet  and  dye-woods  there  were  numerous 
specimens,  among  the  latter  the  Capulin  cimarron  and  the  Campeche  wood.  Among 
the  medicinal  plants  was  the  Polygala , an  ipecacuanha  said  to  have  been  recently 
discovered  by  a native  pharmacist ; the  Lobelia  injlata , used  as  a diaphoretic  (pos- 
sibly a species  of  the  Lophanthus  ?),  said  to  be  peculiar  to  Mexico  ; and  a small 
plant  resembling  the  Eryngium  nasturtifolium  of  Mexico.  In  the  collection  of 


PRODUCTIONS. 


583 


almarcigo  (mastic),  anata  ( Bixa  Orellana ),  anota,  anis  (anise- 
seed),  arrow-root,  acluote,  agave,  amole,  amate,  achiote  (or  anot- 
ta),  ajonjoli  (a  purge),  ario  (ditto),  bainilla  (vanilla),  balsame  ne- 
gro (black  balsam),  balsamito,  caoutchouc  (India-rubber),  copal, 
cowhage  ( Dolichos  Pruriens),  copalchi  (quinine),  canafistola 
(cassia),  camphor  (?),  cinnamon,  contrayerba  (a  species  of  the 
Dorstenia  of  Linnaeus),  castor-oil  plant,  cedron  (antidote),  citron, 
caraway,  capsicum,  chichicasta  (species  of  cowhage),  eryngo  (an- 
tidote), estonaque  (frankincense),  fustic,  foxglove,  friagaplata  (a 
purge),  gum  arabic,  gum  copaiba,  gum  copal,  gum  myrrh,  gum 
tragacanth,  gum  elastic  (ule),  gum  zacarina,*  ginjebre  (ginger), 
guaco  (antidote),  guasguyas,  guachacare,  genesero,  Incas  sylves- 
tris,  ipecacuanha,  jalapa,  Jesuit’s  bark,juchicopal,  lobelia,  liquid- 
amber,  linseed,  Iona  mana,*  mastic,  madder,  ocra,  pimento-gor- 
do  (allspice),  palma  Christi,  pihon,  rhubarb,  sarsaparilla,  sumac, 
sassafras,  smilax,  snake-root,  sago,  silk-cotton,  sangre  de  drago 
(Dragon’s-blood),  tacamahaca,  tuna,  toronja,  vanglo  (oil-plant). 

gums  appeared  dragon’s-blood  and  gum  elastic  (“  called  ule”),  quite  different 
from  that  of  Mexico.  The  heart-leaved  bixa  (a  dye-wood),  and  some  specimens 
of  a fruit  or  grains  resembling  nutmegs  ; the  Myristiea  sebifera  of  Guiana  are  also 
mentioned  ; and  a straw,  used  for  the  manufacture  of  cigar-wrappers  and  hats, 
called  “ Panama,”  like  the  Carludovico  of  Bolivia. 

* “ Don  Cosme  Mora  encontro  en  el  lugar  llamado  Gualora  de  la  isla  del  Tigre, 
un  arbol  lleno  de  cierto  goma  que  la  expelia  en  abundancia  en  su  tronco  y ra- 
mas  y habiendole  examinado,  encontro  que  era  exactamente  mana.  Los  exper- 
imentos  que  de  ella  hizo,  y el  voto  de  Licenciado  Don  Jose  Silva  que  la  recono- 
cio,  persuadieron  al  descubridor  de  que  positivamente  era  la  misma  goma  zaca- 
rina, y purgante  que  nos  traen  de  Sisilia  y de  la  Calabria.” — Golpede  Vista  sobre 
Honduras. 


INDEX 


A. 

Aboriginal  inhabitants,  550-555  ; re- 
mains in  the  Department  of  Coma- 
yagua,  552  ; in  Department  of  Olan- 
cho,  553. 

Academia  Literaria,  206,  549. 
Agarrapata,  372. 

Agouti,  362. 

Air-gun,  407. 

Alligator,  35,  144,  390. 

Allspice,  250. 

Almendarez  River,  267 
Amalgamation  of  races,  196. 

Amapala,  port  of,  126 ; town  of,  127, 
130,  138  ; trade  of,  138. 

Amusements,  216,  326,  327,  332,  551. 
Antelope,  134,  299. 

Antidotes,  403,  405. 

Antimony,  537. 

Arce,  President  Jose  Manuel,  message 
of,  470. 

Assembly,  National,  471,  474,  479. 
Aztecs,  556. 

B. 

Baptism,  210. 

Barrundia,  Jose  Francisco,  184 ; min- 
ister to  United  States,  511  ; address 
of,  to  President  Pierce,  512  ; death 
of,  512. 

Bay-tree,  269. 

Bees,  384. 

Begging,  203. 

Birds,  wild,  45,  103, 122,  136,  165,  195, 
309,  351,  359,  360, 361, 370,  398, 399. 
Bongo,  furniture  of,  111 ; sailing  in,  122. 
Boxwood,  344. 

Brewer’s  Lagoon,  579. 

Bull-fighting,  331,  333. 

C. 

Cabanas,  General  Jose  Trinidad,  92, 


182  ; interview  with,  184  ; public  ca- 
reer of,  480,  489,  495,  502,  503,  505. 
508,  511,517. 

Cabinet-woods,  307,  581. 

Cacho,  Jose  Maria,  190,  517,  537. 

Calentura,  104,  128,  388,  548,  549. 

Campamento,  village  of,  263 ; gold  wash- 
ings of,  264,  266  ; women  of,  265. 

Cane,  219. 

Carrera,  General  Rafael,  477,  478,  481. 
499,  514. 

Cassava,  219. 

Castellon,  President  Francisco,  91,  92. 
96,  99,  508. 

Catacamas,  Indian  town  of,  395. 

Cattle,  249,  386. 

Cedars  of  Olancho,  302. 

Central  America,  condition  of,  in  1854. 
92  ; trade  of,  226  ; historical  sketch 
of,  449-522. 

Cerro  de  Ule,  174  ; storm  on,  175,  177. 

Chamorro,  President  Fruto,  91,  92. 

Chatfield,  Mr.,  390. 

Chichilaca,  383. 

Chinandega,  town  of,  67,  72 ; evening 
scene  in,  78. 

Chocolate,  method  of  preparing,  193. 

Cholera,  549. 

Churches — of  Rivas,  47,  48 ; of  Chinan- 
dega, 72  ; of  Leon,  88,  95  ; of  Viejo, 
108  ; of  Tegucigalpa,  187 ; of  Jute- 
calpa,  325,  332. 

Cigars,  smoking  of,  75 ; manufacture 
of,  408. 

Cinnabar,  166,  367,  537. 

Cinnamon,  363. 

Climate,  30,  253,  277,  300,  316, 336,  540 
-547. 

Coal,  152,  539. 

Cock-fighting,  216. 

Cocoa  estates,  42. 

Cofradilla,  village  of,  242,  423. 


586 


INDEX. 


Concepcion,  village  of,  339  ; flower  of, 
371. 

Conchagua,  volcanoes  of,  135,  445. 
Consiguina,  volcano  of,  118,  120,  445  ; 
Wafer’s  description  of,  119 ; great 
eruption  of,  230,  231. 

Copper,  336,  365,  366,  440,  536. 
Cordilleras,  outfit  for,  101 ; traveling 
over,  157,  158,  159,  167. 

Cortez,  in  Honduras,  452. 

Costa  Rica,  history  of  State  of,  see  His- 
torical Sketch. 

Couriers,  199. 

Coyol-tree,  374. 

D. 

Dancing,  209,  226,  357. 

Deer,  54,  134,  299,  399  ; skins  of,  403. 
Diseases,  547. 

Dress,  of  women,  75,  106  ; of  children, 
228  ; of  men,  228. 

Drugs,  582,  583. 

Dwelling-houses — in  Nicaragua,  40,  73  ; 

in  Honduras,  195  ; furniture  of,  215. 
Dye-woods,  581. 

E. 

Earthquakes,  230,  233. 

El  Boqueron,  mountain  of,  383. 

El  Espumoso,  411. 

El  Real,  town  of,  385. 

El  Retiro,  343. 

El  Sitio,  hacienda  of,  219. 

El  Viejo,  volcano  of,  61 ; town  of,  108. 
Esposescion,  island  of,  143. 

Estero  Real,  113. 

F. 

Falls  of  Moran,  298. 

Farrallones,  445. 

Ferrera,  General  Francisco,  480 
Fish,  35,  143,  212,  368. 

Fishing,  213,  356,  417,  418. 

Flowers,  195. 

Fonseca,  Bay  of,  118,  124,  445. 

Fruit,  47,  71,  74,  104,  190,  219,  582. 

G. 

Gage,  Thomas,  his  description  of  Leon 
in  1699,  94. 

Galeras,  hacienda  of,  296,  302. 


Gambling,  203,  217,  334. 

Gold,  washing,  280,  281,  282,  287,  289, 
308,  320,  343,  354 ; placers  of  Olan- 
cho  and  Yoro,  530-536 ; legends  of, 
376. 

Gonzales  River,  51. 

Guanaja,  island  of,  450. 

Guardiola,  General  Santos,  498,  516, 
517,  519. 

Guasaripe  River,  180. 

Guatemala,  history  of  State  of,  see  His- 
torical Sketch. 

Guava,  wild,  177. 

Guayabilla  mine,  account  of,  442,  444. 

Guayape  River,  234,  270,  271,  283,  297, 
338,  397,  398;  description  of,  567, 
568,  575,  576 ; discovery  of,  453. 

Guaymaca,  village  of,  254,  256,  422 ; 
volcano  of,  258. 

Guerrillas,  105. 

Gums,  582. 

H. 

Hail-storm  at  Tegucigalpa,  189. 

Honduras,  aboriginal  inhabitants  of,  449 
-459 ; commerce,  exports  and  im- 
ports of,  558-566 ; early  settlement 
of,  450 ; history  of  State  of,  see  His- 
torical Sketch;  political  divisions  of, 
557 ; government  of,  557  ; population 
of,  554,  557 ; productions  of,  581- 
583 ; coins,  currency,  and  public  debt 
of,  567-571 ; revenue  and  income  of, 
566,  567 ; silver  mines  of,  426-444, 
and  522-530  ; weights  and  measures 
of,  572,  573,  574. 

Honey,  384. 

Horsemanship,  292,  330,  340. 

Horses,  292,  330,  372,  373. 

I. 

Iguana,  141. 

India-rubber-tree,  369. 

Indians — of  Olancho,  385,  452,  453; 
their  conversion  attempted,  457,  458, 
459  ; of  Honduras,  555. 

Iron,  367,  537. 

J. 

Jaguar,  392. 

Jalan  River,  345. 


INDEX. 


587 


Jasper,  366. 

Jutecalpa,  town  of,  311,  317,  324. 
Jutequile,  summit  of,  369. 

L. 

La  Brea,  port  of,  147. 

Las  Cuevas,  249. 

La  Herradura,  375. 

La  Lima,  hacienda  of,  270. 

La  Venta,  village  of,  168. 

Lejas  River,  35. 

Leon,  city  of,  87,  91 ; plain  of,  87, 103. 
Lepaguare,  valley  of,  271 ; hacienda  of, 
272. 

Liquidamber,  321. 

Living,  style  of,  71,  192. 

Livingston,  Dr.  Henry,  89,  99. 
Loadstone,  367. 

Los  Candeleros,  53. 

M. 

Macaw,  136,  397. 

Madder,  368. 

Mahogany,  341,  346,  354;  cutting  and 
rafting  of,  349,  550,  351. 

Mausanita,  168. 

Marble,  366 
Mastic-tree,  164. 

Merchandise,  225. 

Minas  de  Oro,  524. 

Mining  terms,  429. 

Monkeys,  108,  382,  394. 

Monte  Rosa,  344. 

Moore,  Captain,  440. 

Morazau,  General  Francisco,  leader  of 
the  Liberal  party,  473,  475,  480 ; 
flight  from  Central  America,  482; 
his  return  and  death,  483-493. 
Moromulca  River,  155. 

Mules,  159,  251,  296,  372. 

Mureielago,  Bar  of,  280. 

Music,  155,  208,  337,  410. 

N. 

Nacaome,  town  of,  149 ; climate  of,  151. 
Negroes,  198,  554,  555. 

Nicaragua,  political  condition  of  State 
of,  91,  93,  445;  history  of  State  of, 
see  Historical  Sketch ; Lake  of,  33, 35. 
Nueva  Arcadia,  village  of,  175. 


O. 

Obraje,  village  of,  51. 

Ochomogo,  hacienda  of,  55. 

Olancho,  Department  of,  early  explora- 
tions in,  451 ; gold  region  of,  233, 
289,  300,  304,  354,  415,  451 ; general 
observations  on,  574, 575 ; topography 
of,  575. 

Olancho  Viejo,  destruction  of  town  of. 
378,  380. 

Ometepe,  island  of,  31,  34. 

Opals,  161,  537,  538,  539. 

Oracion,  51. 

Oysters,  143. 

P. 

Paciente,  hacienda  of,  83. 

Palm-tree,  374. 

Palo  Verde,  365. 

Panther,  393. 

Patook  River,  description  of,  578,  579. 
Pearls,  492,  539. 

Penuare,  hacienda  of,  3S3. 

Peruvian  bark,  408. 

Pespire,  town  of,  162. 

Pine,  region  of,  170  ; forests  of,  176  ; in 
Olancho,  378. 

Pipantes,  352,  353. 

Pita,  hemp,  402. 

Plantain,  172,  400,  401. 

Plants,  medicinal,  303,  363,  582,  583. 
Playa  Grande,  114. 

Posultega,  village  of,  82. 

Potatoes,  cultivation  of,  193,  221. 
Precious  stones,  537,  538,  539. 
Productions,  41,  66,  161,  221,  580. 
Public  instruction,  206,  549. 

Public  speakers,  eloquence  of,  229. 
Puma,  393. 

Q- 

Quebracha,  hacienda  of,  356;  lake  of, 
360. 

Quicksilver,  530. 

Quinine,  408. 

R. 

Rail-road,  Honduras  Inter-oceanic,  130, 
131,456,511. 

Rain,  32,  37,  83,101,114. 

Ramierez,  Nolberto,  98. 


588 


INDEX. 


Realejo,  port  of,  62,  63,  64. 

Records  of  Oiancho,  420. 

Religion,  76,  77,  88,  189,  325,  546,  547, 
551,  552. 

Rice,  408. 

Rio  Abajo,  village  of,  238. 

Rio  Grande,  178. 

Rio  Ylimapa,  243. 

Rivas,  town  of,  37,  39,  40,  42,  47,  58, 

S. 

Sacate  Grande,  island  of,  139. 

Salto,  mountains  of,  260 ; village  of, 
259. 

San  Francisco,  hacienda  of,  56,  344  ; 
convent  of,  at  Realejo,  65  ; at  Tegu- 
cigalpa, 207. 

San  Juan  del  Sur,  26,  27,  59. 

San  Miguel,  volcano  of,  231 ; fair  of, 
294. 

San  Roque,  hacienda  of,  372. 

San  Salvador,  history  of  State  of,  see 
Historical  Sketch;  volcano  of,  231; 
destruction  of  city  of,  232. 

Santa  Lucia,  mining  town  of,  426,  427 ; 
peak  of,  436. 

Sarsaparilla,  364. 

Savanna  Grande,  town  of,  171. 

Scenery  of  Oiancho,  278. 

Scorpion,  405. 

Sensitive  plant,  268. 

Shops,  79  ; in  Tegucigalpa,  190. 

Sierra,  scenery  in,  1 70,  257 ; storm  on, 
252. 

Silver  mines  in  Oiancho,  365  ; in  Tegu- 
cigalpa, 425-444. 

Silver  ore,  assays  of,  by  Dr.  Hewston, 
526 ; method  of  crushing  and  smelt- 
ing, 528,  529,  530. 

Slavery,  471,  472,  479. 

Snakes,  45,  403,  404. 

Sociedad  Economica,  465. 

Soldiers,  205. 

Staple  productions,  582. 

Sugar,  manufacture  of,  219. 

T. 

Talanga,  valley  of,  245 ; town  of,  246, 
248,  422. 


Tamarinds,  329. 

Tapir,  359. 

Tapiscuente,  361. 

Tegucigalpa,  city  of,  180  ; condition  of. 
186  ; climate  of,  188  ; bridge  of,  191. 
202;  mint  of,  210;  shops  in,  224. 
Temperature,  300,  543-547. 

Tiger,  Central  American,  140 ; hunting 
of,  141,  142 ; of  Oiancho,  393. 

Tigre,  Island,  125, 129,  133,  445. 
Timber-trees,  581  ; decaying  of,  223. 
Tin,  537. 

Tiste,  204. 

Tobacco,  408. 

Tortillas,  84, 173,  193. 

Transit  Route,  29. 

Trinidad,  hacienda  of,  172. 

Truxillo,  town  of,  225  ; founding  of, 
451 ; account  of,  456. 

Tusterique  Hill,  244. 

V. 

Vanilla,  294. 

Vegetable  ivory,  399. 

Viejo,  town  of,  108. 

Villa  Ntieva,  437. 

Virgin  Bay,  31. 

Volcanoes,  eruptions  of,  232. 

W. 

Walker,  General  William,  444,  479, 
510. 

Waree,  319. 

Wax,  384. 

Wild  silk,  355. 

Wolves,  394. 

Women — of  Nicaragua,  74,  106,  107: 
of  Honduras,  hospitality  of,  215,  226. 
227. 

Y. 

Yuca,  220. 

Z. 

Zapato,  Francisco  Dias,  98 . 

Zempisque,  port  of,  109. 

Zinc,  537. 


TIIE  END. 


